#North Cascades wilderness

[harshr]

Twin Lakes / High Pass, Mount Baker Wilderness

[pcttrailsidereader]

Beauty and the Logging Beast

I typically sing the praises of the PCT as it travels through Washington state. Washington was my first encounter with the trail and like many first loves it has remained one of my favorites. Others may understandably sing the praises of the Sierra however the North Cascades offer stunning beauty that can and often does get overlooked. This is complicated by logging practices that tend to interrupt the overall beauty found along Section I.

Section I is the section between White and Snoqualmie Passes. The stunning beauty encountered in the Goat Rocks Wilderness continues heading north bound. Rambling through well-protected sub-alpine wilderness keeps one's heart beating with exertion and the surrounding beauty. Unfortunately a few days and miles later it descends into heavily-logged, privately-owned land. An honest description of this stretch offers a dramatic illustration of the effects of public land protection and private industry on the Washington's landscape. Here there is a reminder of Washington's historic logging past and challenging future further complicated by the threat of fire.

Beginning in the lush hills and meadows of the William O. Douglas Wilderness, Section I climbs and dips at a relatively moderate pace. Following the crest from White Pass, the trail passes through sub-alpine meadows and past many lakes and streams. Mount Rainier is ever present here and there are points where the trail passes within twelve miles of the peak.

Reaching near the halfway point, the trail dips below the sub-alpine zone, entering a varied landscape of meadows, forests and the occasional ridge-top. Approximately forty miles from Snoqualmie Pass, the trail changes personality from engaging to potentially off putting. Here the trail enters land shared by private companies and the Forest Service. This is where for nearly half these miles the trail leads through clear-cuts and exposed hillsides. There, depending on the weather, hikers can encounter the full wrath of the elements in the logged areas and also enjoy the pockets of protected lands. All is not lost. Along the way there is a mile-long swatch of old growth forests, and beautiful mountain lakes and meadows.

From Chinook Pass, the trail feels easy. Before long Interstate 90 at Snoqualmie Pass greets you. Closer to the pass, it is not unusual to to encounter more and more day hikers, and overnight campers particularly if you arrive on a sunny summer weekend. 

[travelella]

North Cascades National Park, Stephen Mather Wilderness, Whatcom County, Washington, USA

Alex Moliski

[rjzimmerman]

Excerpt from this press release from the Center for Biological Diversity:

The Center for Biological Diversity today filed a petition urging the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service to protect the Cascade red fox under the Endangered Species Act. The Washington state foxes are threatened by climate change, small population size and a host of other threats.

“The cold, snowy landscapes where Cascade red foxes live are melting away before our very eyes and these animals and their homes need to be protected,” said Noah Greenwald, endangered species director at the Center. “For these foxes to have any future, we have to curb greenhouse gas pollution and protect more of the natural world, not only for their sake but for ours.”

Once found throughout high elevation areas of Washington’s Cascades, the foxes have been lost from the North Cascades, or about half their range. A small population of foxes survives in the state’s southern Cascades, centered on Mount Rainier National Park and several wilderness areas on the Gifford Pinchot National Forest.

In addition to climate change, Cascade red foxes are threatened by predation and disease, habituation to humans, poisoning, incidental hunting and trapping, habitat destruction and fragmentation due to logging, development and vehicle collisions. These threats are all magnified by the small size of their population. Scientists estimate that the foxes’ genetic diversity has dwindled to the equivalent of just 16 individuals.

[backside-into-the-heavenly]

The Pacific Crest Trail at the USA-Canada border marks the northern terminus of one of the world’s most iconic long-distance hiking trails. Stretching over 2,650 miles from Mexico to Canada, the PCT traverses some of the most diverse and dramatic landscapes in the western United States. Reaching the USA-Canada border signifies the completion of an epic journey for thru-hikers who have spent months traveling through deserts, alpine wilderness, deep forests, and volcanic landscapes.

The northern terminus is located in the remote wilderness of the North Cascades, a place of wild beauty and solitude. As hikers approach the border, they are greeted by towering mountains, dense forests, and pristine lakes. The trail ends at Monument 78, a simple metal obelisk that marks the boundary between the two countries. For those finishing the trail, the sight of this monument is often an emotional and triumphant moment, signifying the end of a long and arduous adventure. Beyond the border lies Manning Park in British Columbia, where many hikers continue to celebrate their achievement amid the breathtaking Canadian wilderness.

[rabbitcruiser]

West Diamond Lake Highway, OR (No. 1)

Mount Thielsen (Klamath: hisc’akwaleeʔas), is an extinct shield volcano in the Oregon High Cascades, near Mount Bailey. Because eruptive activity ceased 250,000 years ago, glaciers have heavily eroded the volcano's structure, creating precipitous slopes and a horn-like peak. The spire-like shape of Thielsen attracts lightning strikes and creates fulgurite, an unusual mineral. The prominent horn forms a centerpiece for the Mount Thielsen Wilderness, a reserve for recreational activities such as skiing and hiking. Thielsen is one of Oregon's Matterhorns.

Thielsen was produced by subduction of the Juan de Fuca Plate under the North American Plate. Volcanism near the Cascades dates back to 55 million years ago (mya), and extends from British Columbia to California. Thielsen is part of the High Cascades, a branch of the main Cascades range that includes several Oregon volcanoes less than 3.5 million years old; it is also a member of a group of extinct volcanoes distinguished by their sharp peaks.

The area surrounding the volcano was originally inhabited by Klamath Native Americans, and was later encountered by settlers. One of the visitors was Jon Hurlburt, an early explorer of the area who named the volcano after the engineer Hans Thielsen. Later explorers discovered nearby Crater Lake. The volcano was not analyzed until 1884, when a team from the United States Geological Survey sampled its fulgurite deposits.

Source: Wikipedia

[jpat82]

Dearly Departed

Quickly I ducked under the edge of the storm drain, water trickled between my feet as I pressed myself as tight as I could against the side. The stench was the first thing I noticed, it was always there ever present, the smell of rotting flesh. You would think year after year of it somehow the senses would be deadened by it. Unfortunately no, whenever wind moved just right the all consuming smell rot would penetrate even the best of masks.

   My breath echoed down the culvert while my eyes tracked the bit of wilderness in front me. The soft groans coming from the once used road above mixed with the shuffling of feet. I reminded myself one or two, that was manageable. However once we started to the point I need both hands to count I was out.

  Gently pulling the hunting from its sheath at my hip, I breathed out slowly trying to keep my fears at bay. I reminded myself if I stayed quiet and kept hidden the odds were they would pass by none the wiser of little old me hiding underneath them. I was now living the highest stakes game of hide and seek... And it sucked.

   Was it a virus? A disease, a parasite? Hell maybe it was something the was bioengineered. Nobody knew. Just one day corpses rose from their resting point and decided the rest of us became a tasty snack. The world was already a shit storm anyway, this was just the nice little cherry on top of the cake. One day I was worried about making my electrical payment the next I was running from the dearly departed to keep from being eaten.

    Note to self, next apocalypse wear better shoes and a sports bra.

   There were days that I just wanted to give up, I wasn't going to fool myself. The idea of running from one place to the next, hoping to find food and water but just enough to keep me going not to much because you had to be light on your feet in case the dearly departed appeared out of no where. Just to get from one day to the next was enough to drive anyone to the point of insanity. On the other hand, laying down and giving up just to be feasted on and in turn become one of them wasn't appealing either. Who knew the end of world would actually make life interesting.

    I could hear the small herd slowly moving away, the moans and groan fading along with god forsaken shuffle shuffle of dead feet. Cautiously I took a step forward, a slight sloshing sound came from my soaked canvas shoes as I peered over the edge. Bits of tattered clothes, dirt and skin littered the asphalt like a gross version of a ticker-tack parade, but the ambling corpses seemed have kept going north which meant I wasn't.

   I stepped out of the shin deep creek, toes cold from being submerged in the water for as long as they had. I slipped my knife back into it's sheath when something cold wrapped around my ankle that was still under water. It pulled hard, pulling me from the slight embankment, muddy water cascaded up around me as a slimey figure lunged up out of the water.

   I braced my forearm against its throat, skin from its neck squished up exposing rotting neck muscles. Blackened teeth snapped at my face as I attempted to pull my knife back out, water sloshing up my own body in the process. The only hand it had reached up trying to pulled my arm down as I finally pulled my knife free of its encasement. Quickly I shoved the steel into the dead's temple hoping that in the process we didn't make enough noise to gather any other of their attention.

   The stinking corpse slid easily off my own body with a quick shove and climbed out of the stream as quickly as I could. I was soaked, cold and now annoyed I would spend the remaining of the day smelling like rotting flesh and fish. I stepped out on the road, my shoes squishing as I did and sighed heavily.

   "Stupid rotting pieces.." I trailed off as I rung out the bottom of my shirt. "Can I just catch a break, just a small one."

   I hung my head, taking a deep breath, one I was still lucky enough take. A bit of stream slime slipped down my elbow plopping on the black top next to my feet. It's not a bad day, just one craptastic moment,  I reminded myself heading in the opposite direction that the herd of dearly departed had went. After all it was maybe just shy of noon and I had the whole day ahead of me. Granted I still had to deal with not being eaten but in turn find food for myself and maybe, just maybe get lucky enough to find a safe place to hunker down for the night. Preferably dry.

   "So first thing on the agenda," I told myself. "Find some dry shoes, cleaner clothes then the one I am currently in."

   Having been on my own now, for god knows how long, I had taken up talking out loud. It was cathartic, it's not something one thinks about, how the lack of human to human conversation can effect ones mood. Being able to have that one on one connection, to share ideas, to express yourself, hell even to shoot the breeze and bull shit with your neighbor, humans needed it. We are a social creature, needing companionship like most other animals, we thrive on it. Though to be fair before the world was introduced to the new apex predator, the ones that never tired and would eat your face off fast than Florida man, I thought I could go the rest of my life never talking to another human. Now however, I would gladly even have the dullest conversation with a half brained inbred.

    The last time I was around another person, it only lasted a couple of months. She wasn't the brightist shade of grey, but at least it was better than talking to myself. She was already half mad went I met her, rattling on about how the dead spoke to her, calling her 'home' at least that was till she decided to have a one on one with a newly dearly departed.

   I hooked a left when I saw a dirt road leading off the asphalt street, deep ruts told me it had been used heavily and the lack of Mother Nature taking back over the path said it was used rather frequently. Both exciting and horrify at the same time. Before I met the her who thought the dead wanted to tell all their undead secrets I had a run across a group of rather unsavory individuals, the type you wouldn't want to come across at any type of day. Think the widest biker gang you can think of, double it and sprinkle in some hard core serial killers, that was them.

   Ducking into the brush that the forest provided, I kept the dirt road in my sight. The knife was already unsheathed and in hand, keeping my knees bent to avoid making anymore sound then I needed to I pressed forward. Somewhere in the distance a raven chortled and something scurried in the underbrush. Something moved on the other side of the road, shimmering from one tree to the next causing the hair on the nap of my wet neck to stand. I paused mid-step, taking in a deep breath to still my nerves.

   I took another step watching the trees across from me, sun filtered down through canopy casting an array of shadows. Another step forward and suddenly my world went upside down, leaves and branches flew around me. Pain seared its way through my ankle as I was pulled upward with enough force to not only knock the knife from my hand but also knock my brain against my skull.

   For a moment, just for moment, I was confused and disoriented. Once my brain stopped thudding against the inside of my head I realized the world around me was upside down and I was hanging by my left foot about four feet from the ground. Something came from around the trees on the other side of the dirt road but I didn't get a good look as I was not only upside down but spinning very slowly.

   "Seriously, you better not be one of the D.D.'s, otherwise I'm going to be really pissed." I half yelled trying to do a sit up in the air, finding it more difficult then it should of been.

   "Why you comin down this way?" A male voice almost bellowed back, heavy foot steps made their way to my direction.

   "On my way to the mall!" I yelled back, astonished to actually hear a voice and not the moans of the dead. I tried to whip myself around to see who was yelling at me but my own hair kept covering my own face and obscuring the view.

   "Smart ass comment like that ain't goin to get ya down." He snapped back as a hand grasped a hold of my wrist.

   "Well, to be fair that's a dumbass question, the hell do you I'm going?" I snapped back as a face came into view.

    Piercing blue eyes met mine, a small scar sat above his right eyebrow. Scruff surrounded a set of full lips and his shoulder length dirty blonde hair hung to his shoulder. His skin was tanned by what was no doubt years of being outside, in that moment I wondered how many of us still living would die of skin cancer rather than old age.

   "Think your funny, don't 'cha." He stated, before walking over to a nearby tree.

   "Don't know, haven't been around to many of the living these days, and considering the dead don't talk or laugh for that matter." I responded, watching him intently.

   "Mmm." He responded more as grunt rather then an actual response. With a flick of his wrist I came crashing back to the ground, extra rope pelting me on the face for good measure.

   "Thanks.. I think." Standing up and brushing myself off quickly, bits of forest floor sticking to me since my clothes were still wet from earlier. I spied my knife and swiped it up from the ground.

   "Why you head this way?" He asked me, this time without the yelling. His jeans were filthy and had holes throughout them, same as his grey colored shirt. Actually the ones thing not covered in holes was probably his leather jacket.

   "Well.." I took a deep breath. " I was on the hunt for food and dry clothes, saw the dirt road.. was hoping to find an old abandon house that maybe I could hole up in for the night."

   "You don't have any food?" He asked, staying the distance he was, he shifted his weight from one foot to the other a bit. I could tell he was sizing me up, just as I was doing the same.

   The man was dirty, he had definitely been out on his own a while. There was a large knife of some sort on his left hip, and a smaller one on the right. He didn't seem threatening, but looks were always deceiving anymore. As of now, I treated everyone as a threat until I learned otherwise.

   "What weapons you got?" He asked abruptly. I pulled the knife back from its rest point flipped it in my hand so the handle was facing towards him.

   "Just this." I said as I took a step forwards, his own hand instinctively went to his hip.

   "Just that one?" He asked, his eyes flicking down and then back up to me.

   "I travel light, makes it easier to run from the dearly departed." I responded solemnly, he chewed on his bottom lip and nodded.

   "Come on." He almost barked walking through the trees in the direction I had been walking before I went feet over head.

   "You going to kill and eat me?" I asked him, pausing for a moment. He paused for a moment and look over his shoulder.

   "What?"

    "Nothing, what's your name?" I asked him, putting the knife back in it's spot.

   "Derrick, yours?"

   "Amelia."

@kitkatkl @devilbat

[susiecards]

2 of clubs

North Cascades North Cascades National Park is the most rugged and largest alpine wilderness in the lower 48 states, covering 684,000 acres.

[newsandgamess]

5 Hidden Gem National Parks to Explore in the USA

5 hidden gem national parks to explore in USA. Uncover America’s best-kept natural wonders with scenic trails, breathtaking landscapes, & unique adventures.

Unveiling America’s Hidden Natural Treasures: 5 Must-Visit National Parks for 2024

Are you looking for unique outdoor adventures off the beaten path?

While America’s most famous national parks like Yosemite and the Grand Canyon are undoubtedly spectacular, there are lesser-known treasures waiting to be discovered.

In this article, we’ll explore five hidden gem national parks that offer breathtaking landscapes, diverse ecosystems, and unforgettable experiences.

These parks may not be as famous as their counterparts, but they’re equally captivating and often less crowded.

Let’s dive into these natural wonders and see why they deserve a spot on your 2024 travel itinerary.

#1 Yellowstone National Park Tour from Jackson Hole

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Yellowstone National Park: A Geothermal Wonder

Yellowstone National Park, America’s first national park, is a true hidden gem that often gets overshadowed by its more famous cousins.

Located primarily in Wyoming, with parts extending into Montana and Idaho, Yellowstone offers a unique blend of geothermal wonders, diverse wildlife, and stunning landscapes.

Why Yellowstone Should Be on Your 2024 Bucket List

Yellowstone is home to the world’s largest concentration of geysers, including the famous Old Faithful. But there’s so much more to explore:

Geothermal Features: Witness colorful hot springs, bubbling mud pots, and steaming fumaroles.

Wildlife Viewing: Spot bison, elk, wolves, and grizzly bears in their natural habitat.

Grand Canyon of Yellowstone: Marvel at the 308-foot Lower Falls cascading into a colorful canyon.

Yellowstone Lake: Enjoy fishing, boating, or simply relaxing by America’s largest high-elevation lake.

Historic Sites: Visit the Old Faithful Inn and other landmarks that tell the park’s rich history.

To truly appreciate Yellowstone’s wonders, consider booking the “Yellowstone National Park Tour from Jackson Hole” through Viator.

This full-day tour offers an expert guide to help you navigate the park’s vast 2.2 million acres.

You’ll witness Old Faithful’s eruption, admire the vibrant colors of the Fountain Paint Pot, and learn about the park’s unique geology and ecology.

Keep your camera ready for wildlife sightings and breathtaking landscapes that make Yellowstone one of the best national parks in America.

#2 Denali National Park: Alaska’s Crown Jewel

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3 Hour Naturalist Walking Tour in Denali National Park

Tucked away in the heart of Alaska, Denali National Park is a hidden gem that offers visitors a chance to experience true wilderness.

Home to North America’s tallest peak, Mount Denali (formerly known as Mount McKinley), this park is a paradise for nature lovers and adventure seekers alike.

Discovering the Wonders of Denali

Denali National Park showcases the raw beauty of Alaska’s interior:

Diverse Ecosystems: Explore tundra, taiga forests, and glacial valleys.

Wildlife Viewing: Spot the “Big Five” — moose, caribou, Dall sheep, wolves, and grizzly bears.

Mount Denali: Witness the awe-inspiring 20,310-foot peak (weather permitting).

Backcountry Adventures: Engage in hiking, backpacking, and mountaineering.

Northern Lights: In fall and winter, witness the mesmerizing aurora borealis.

For an intimate introduction to Denali’s natural wonders, book the “3-Hour Naturalist Walking Tour in Denali National Park” through Viator.

This guided walk allows you to immerse yourself in the park’s ecosystem, learning about its unique flora and fauna from an expert naturalist.

You’ll have the opportunity to taste edible berries, feel the spongy tundra beneath your feet, and gain a deeper understanding of this remarkable landscape.

It’s an excellent way to experience one of the most beautiful national parks in the US up close and personal.

#3 Touring and Hiking in Mt. Rainier National Park

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Mount Rainier National Park: A Cascade Range Gem

Often overlooked in favor of its more famous Mount Rainier National Park is a hidden gem that deserves recognition.

Centered around the iconic 14,410-foot stratovolcano, this park offers a diverse range of landscapes and activities that make it one of the best US national parks.

Exploring the Wonders of Mount Rainier

Mount Rainier National Park is a year-round destination with something for everyone:

Glaciers: Home to the most glaciated peak in the contiguous US.

Wildflower Meadows: In summer, witness stunning displays of colorful wildflowers.

Old-Growth Forests: Walk among ancient trees in the Grove of the Patriarchs.

Waterfalls: Discover numerous cascades, including the 168-foot Narada Falls.

Scenic Drives: Take in breathtaking views along the Sunrise and Paradise Valley roads.

To make the most of your visit, consider booking the “Touring and Hiking in Mt. Rainier National Park” experience through Viator.

This full-day tour from Seattle allows you to explore the park’s highlights, including a hike to a glacier, picturesque stops at Reflection Lake and Christine Falls, and the option to snowshoe in winter.

With an experienced guide, you’ll gain insights into the park’s geology, ecology, and cultural significance, making it an unforgettable adventure in one of America’s best national parks.

#4 Joshua Tree National Park Driving Tour

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Joshua Tree National Park: A Desert Oasis

Where the Mojave and Colorado deserts meet, you’ll find the otherworldly landscape of Joshua Tree National Park.

This hidden gem in Southern California offers a unique blend of desert ecosystems, distinctive rock formations, and the park’s namesake Joshua trees.

Unveiling the Magic of Joshua Tree

Joshua Tree National Park is a playground for nature lovers, rock climbers, and stargazers:

Unique Flora: Marvel at the iconic Joshua trees and diverse desert plants.

Rock Formations: Explore massive granite monoliths and boulder piles.

Stargazing: Experience some of the darkest night skies in Southern California.

Rock Climbing: Challenge yourself on world-class climbing routes.

Desert Wildlife: Spot bighorn sheep, coyotes, and various bird species.

To fully appreciate the park’s diverse landscapes and hidden treasures, book the “Joshua Tree National Park Driving Tour” through Viator.

This comfortable van tour allows you to cover more ground and see the park’s highlights, including Hidden Valley and Keys View.

With an experienced guide, you’ll learn about the park’s unique geology, diverse plant and animal life, and cultural history.

Whether you’re a first-time visitor or returning to explore more, this tour offers an excellent overview of one of the most beautiful national parks in the US.

#5 Private Tour: Hawaii Volcanoes National Park Eco Tour

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Private Tour: Hawaii Volcanoes National Park Eco Tour

Our final hidden gem takes us to the Big Island of Hawaii, where Hawaii Volcanoes National Park showcases the raw power of nature.

Home to two of the world’s most active volcanoes, Kilauea and Mauna Loa, this park offers a unique opportunity to witness the Earth’s creative and destructive forces in action.

Discovering the Fiery Wonders of Hawaii Volcanoes

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is a dynamic landscape that’s constantly changing:

Active Volcanoes: Witness ongoing volcanic activity (when conditions allow).

Lava Tubes: Explore underground tunnels formed by ancient lava flows.

Crater Rim Drive: Take a scenic drive around the Kilauea caldera.

Diverse Ecosystems: Experience rainforests, desert-like terrain, and coastal areas.

Cultural Sites: Learn about Native Hawaiian culture and its connection to the volcanoes.

For an in-depth exploration of this unique park, book the “Private Tour Hawaii Volcanoes National Park Eco Tour” through Viator.

This private, full-day tour focuses on the park’s ecology, geology, and cultural significance.

You’ll have the opportunity to hike along semi-active lava flows, learn about native flora and fauna, and potentially witness a spectacular sunset over the volcanic landscape.

With a knowledgeable guide and the flexibility of a private tour, you’ll gain a deeper appreciation for this extraordinary national park.

Conclusion

These five hidden gem national parks offer unique experiences that rival those of their more famous counterparts.

From the geothermal wonders of Yellowstone to the fiery landscapes of Hawaii Volcanoes, each park showcases a different facet of America’s natural beauty.

By venturing off the beaten path and exploring these lesser-known treasures, you’ll not only avoid crowds but also discover some of the best national parks in America.

Remember to book your tours through Viator for expertly guided experiences that will enhance your understanding and appreciation of these remarkable landscapes.

Whether you’re a nature enthusiast, adventure seeker, or simply looking for a unique vacation destination, these hidden gem national parks are sure to leave you with unforgettable memories.

So pack your bags, grab your camera, and get ready to explore the undiscovered wonders of America’s national parks in 2024!

[natures-moments]

Dome Peak is a tall, massive glacial mountain in the Glacier Peak Wilderness of Washington's North Cascades, USA

[harshr]

Winchester Mountain, Mount Baker Wilderness

[pcttrailsidereader]

The Pacific Crest Trail: The US West Coast's 'greatest footpath'

By Gavin Scarff

One hundred years after the US designated the world's first wilderness area, an epic hike offers adventure seekers the chance to experience a slice of the nation's wild side.

On 3 June 1924, more than half a million acres of pristine mountain meadows, rock-walled canyons and aspen glades in south-west New Mexico's Gila National Forest were designated as the world's first protected wilderness area. One hundred years later, the National Wilderness Preservation System now counts 806 official "wilderness areas" spread across nearly 112 million acres in the United States – an area twice the size of the United Kingdom.

Two years after Gila's wilderness designation, educator and hiker Catherine Montgomery proposed creating "a high-winding trail down the heights of our Western mountains… from the Canadian Border to the Mexican [border]." The idea gained momentum during the 1930s under the stewardship of oilman and avid outdoorsman Clinton C Clarke, who dedicated much of his life to creating a border-to-border trail "traversing the best scenic areas and maintaining an absolute wilderness character", as he put it. This idea would eventually become the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT): a 2,650-mile path connecting Canada to Mexico and has been called the West Coast's "greatest footpath".

In 2023, craving a challenge that would break us from our desk-bound lives and thrust us into the wild, my partner, Claire Taylor, and I qualified as Mountain Leaders and set out on an epic journey to complete the entire PCT. For five months, we hiked past cascading waterfalls, snow-covered badlands and narrow slot canyons as we travelled south along "America's Wilderness Trail". Upon finishing, there was one section that really stuck out to us: the state of Washington, which is home to 31 designated wilderness areas (11 of which the PCT traverses).

The PCT section of Washington covers 505.7 miles of incomparable beauty over remote passes, snowy peaks and dense ancient forests with little sign of human life. And since Washington's portion of the PCT leads hikers through a greater percent of designated wilderness areas (63%) than the other two US states where the trail passes (Oregon and California, which contain 52% and 37%, respectively) it remains a true testimony to Clarke's vision of maintaining a slice of the original American wilderness.  

Into the wild

"But what about the bears?" Claire asked. I replied with the line I'd been telling myself: "The presence of bears embodies the wilderness that we are seeking." In all honesty, having never hiked in bear and mountain lion country, we were a little nervous. We were about to spend five months hiking the PCT with nothing but our tent and hiking poles to protect us. But on our first day, we jumped out of the back of a pick-up truck whose faded bumper sticker read, "Into the forest I go, to lose my mind and find my soul", and onto the trail.

We had spent an hour cramped among a handful of other hikers bumping along a dusty dirt road that wound its way along steep cliff edges from the small village of Mazama, Washington, to the trailhead at Hart's Pass, stopping just once for a herd of large white mountain goats to cross. Since it isn't permitted to cross a remote, unmanned border into the US from Canada, most travellers hiking southbound actually start here at Hart's Pass. They then trek north for 30 miles to "tag" the border before returning along the same trail where the pick-up truck had dropped us off four days earlier.

The North Cascades

Our journey started in the North Cascades, a vast mountain chain spanning more than 500 miles known for its jagged peaks, subalpine meadows, glaciers and waterfalls. "If you look at a map of Washington state, all the wildest places run down the spine of the North Cascades mountains," says Chris Morgan, an ecologist, filmmaker and podcaster who has called the North Cascades home for the past 30 years. "That spine is where our wilderness areas protect the wildest of our wild – [our] untamed landscapes where nature rules and reconnecting with raw, unfiltered life is still possible." As Claire and I peered out from the dense forest up to the towering mountains that we would soon ascend and pass through, we were struck by the utter vastness, remoteness and grandeur before us.

Ancient "blowdowns"

Within designated wilderness areas, there is minimal human intervention. "[Protected wilderness areas] were set up as places for humans to visit, but not linger," Morgan explained. Ten days after setting off, Claire and I were hiking through Glacier Peak Wilderness Area, known for its heavily forested streams, steep-sided valleys and rugged glacier-covered peaks. Fallen trees littered the path, often requiring us to carefully clamber over or under the debris. We passed a large "blowdown" fir tree that had been knocked down by a storm, cut and cleared by hand. Upon closer inspection, we noticed that someone had counted and marked its rings. Squinting, we counted roughly 700, meaning this tree was here more than 100 years before Columbus sailed to the Americas. As Morgan told me: "These [wilderness] areas thrust you back in time… to a time that connects us all to the raw nature of primordial life."

Staying wild

The PCT is maintained by the Pacific Crest Trail Association (PCTA) and a team of incredible volunteers. When I later asked Kage Jenkins, who works for the PCTA, about the role of designated wilderness areas, I was taken back to the 700-year-old downed tree. Kage explained, "Trail maintenance projects in wilderness areas mean no chainsaws or motorised tools; we rely on the crosscut saw. There's a simplicity and joy in spending the better part of a day at the foot of a stratovolcano cutting an enormous Douglas fir."

I then asked how the PCTA manages to maintain the trail while also keeping it wild. "The trail itself always finds a way to stay wild," Kage said.

Shifting landscapes

By July, the snow had just melted but there was already talk of fire among fellow hikers. We passed one young trekker going north to the Canadian border, who told us, "I hiked 2,600 miles last year but couldn't reach the border due to fire closing the trail. I'm back to hike the last 50 miles!" Wildfires are a very real threat in Washington. In July 2014 the Carlton Complex Wildfires burned 256,108 acres. This threat also provides opportunities for nature; some animals like the black-backed woodpecker and fire chaser beetle have evolved specifically to thrive in burn zones, while seeds from plants such as the snowbrush have shown that fire can actually stimulate germination. A warming climate means that the frequency and magnitude of Washington's wildfires is likely to increase.

In late July, we came across our first real burn zone. We hiked in silence through the dead trees, it was eerily quiet and somewhat disarming. The charred remains were a sobering reminder of how seemingly indomitable landscapes can be altered so quickly.

Ups and downs

Claire and I quickly found hiking through Washington both exhilarating and calming. Shortly after setting out, we came across the first bear droppings we would see in the middle of the path. Some nights, our campsite was swarmed by mosquitoes that had recently hatched following the melting snow. Other times, as the skies darkened and thunder rumbled, we rushed to find a flat camping site to wait out the incoming storm. This rollercoaster pattern continued, with hours of sunny, stunning hiking interrupted by extreme weather and energy-sapping lows. As Kimberly Myhren, a hiker we befriended on the PCT, said, "What makes [the PCT in Washington] difficult to hike is also what gives Washington its serene and rugged beauty."

These ever-shifting landscapes only added to the sense of wonder and adventure we felt along the trail: we weren't just passing through the environment but interacting and coexisting with it. "As many wilderness areas are large enough that there is no cellular service, these landscapes are places where one tends to disconnect from technology and be present in a different manner," Michael DeCramer, policy and planning manager at the Washington Trails Association, later explained "Visiting a wilderness area can afford an experience of remoteness that is difficult to find elsewhere."

"The mountain"

After a few weeks, we settled into a rhythm. While our GPS told us that we were covering an average of 20 miles and ascending more than 3,200ft each day, we soon found that we were measuring things differently. We focused less on time and distance and more on how we felt emotionally and physically. We were, as DeCramer later said, "present in a different manner".

One sunny day in mid July, "the mountain", as it's known to those in Seattle, came into view. Mt Rainier, the iconic 14,410ft active volcano and the most glaciated peak in the lower 48 states, appeared like a beacon. We had hiked 250 miles and knew we would enter the Mt Rainier Wilderness Area at mile 330, and having a reference on the skyline reinforced how quickly we were moving; each time we emerged from a dark forest or from a sheltered hillside, the mountain seemed to grow. Where possible, we would pitch our tents to catch a glimpse of the mountain before we fell asleep. The following morning, we would watch the first rays of sun reflect off its snowy peak as we sipped our steaming coffee.

The climb

The high-altitude terrain means that hiking the Washington section of the PCT shouldn't be taken lightly. It took us a full month to reach the Oregon border; by then we had ascended nearly 100,000ft – the equivalent of climbing Everest three times. With bags full of food, water, a tent, a sleeping bag and mat, clothing, a stove and gas and other gear, your fitness levels quickly improve. We had spent months training, yet still found ourselves exhausted most days and falling asleep by 20:00. After just 19 days, we had both lost a fair amount of weight and managing our weight and calorie intake became a battle we would fight for most of the trail.

Wilderness and civilisation

Whenever we needed to hike into nearby towns for supplies, the transition from wilderness to civilisation was abrupt and it felt strange to suddenly interact with locals after having not washed in days. Being able to fill up on much-needed food was great, but it came with hiking out of town with a heavy bag. Our meals were made of lightweight, high-caloric foods such as seeds, nuts, dried fruit, noodles, porridge, milk powder and the occasional freeze-dried meal as a treat. We stored our provisions in bear canisters that doubled as stools as we sat preparing dinner each evening. The canisters are designed to prevent bears and other creatures from accessing to your food supplies, and ensure there is no association between people and food.

We were awoken one morning by the sound of a pack of coyotes playing as the sun came up, their howls echoing through the forest. We also had five bear encounters in Washington, including a close interaction with a mother and two cubs who were more interested in their pursuit of berries than our presence. We met hikers who had seen mountain lions just metres from their tent. Deer would appear from nowhere, often while we were camping, curious and unafraid. On many afternoons, we passed marmots who whistled loudly at us to stay away.

Rustic lodging

In many places, long hikes end at a cabin with a hot shower. This is not the case on this section of the PCT, however. "Washington is home to some of the most remote areas on the entire PCT," explained Kage. "There are 40-mile sections of trail between the nearest two roads, further still to the nearest town." We carried our home with us, diligently pitching it every night at one of the numerous flat dirt spots established by previous hikers along the trail. Many nights we slept closer than we would have liked to dead but still standing trees – "widow-makers", as they're known by hikers, for their tendency to fall in the night.

While there were times I certainly missed a hot shower, many hikers prefer this rustic approach. As DeCramer said, "Many people report that wilderness areas provide an opportunity to experience challenge and self-reliance." Kage agreed, adding, "The PCT helps ensure each hiker can enjoy their own wilderness experience: appreciating a natural landscape and ecosystem, finding isolation or connection to and interdependence of wild places."

"What about the bears?"

After a month of hiking through Washington, I thought back to Claire's first question as we set out: "But what about the bears?" As I began writing this, a PCTA update flashed up on my phone: grizzly bears will soon be reintroduced into Washington's wilderness areas. "There are only six ecosystems in the USA outside of Alaska considered wild enough for grizzly bears, and this is one of them," said Morgan, who has been instrumental in advocating for their reintroduction "They will feel right at home deep in the heart of the endless forests and giant peaks that their ancestors once roamed."

One hundred years since the Gila wilderness area came into being, this feels fitting. For PCT hikers and for Washington, it's one more reason to cherish this great wilderness.

[travelella]

Trappers Peak, North Cascades National Park, Stephen Mather Wilderness, Whatcom County, Washington, USA

Alex Moliski

[onehikeaweek]

Tidbits from West Twin Needle climb in the Picket Range

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[eyssant]

Yellowstone Chronicles: Tales of Wonder and Wildlife in the West

Yellowstone National Park stands as a testament to the raw, unbridled power and beauty of nature. Encompassing over 3,400 square miles of wilderness primarily in Wyoming, with slivers extending into Montana and Idaho, this iconic park is a playground for outdoor enthusiasts and nature lovers alike. Established in 1872, Yellowstone holds the distinction of being the world's first national park, and it continues to captivate millions of visitors annually with its mesmerizing geothermal features, diverse wildlife, and breathtaking landscapes. Here's everything you need to know to embark on an unforgettable journey through Yellowstone.

Things to Explore:

Yellowstone is a treasure trove of natural wonders, each more awe-inspiring than the last. Here are some must-see attractions to include on your itinerary:

Geothermal Marvels: Marvel at Yellowstone's world-renowned geothermal features, including the iconic Old Faithful geyser, which erupts with remarkable regularity. Explore the colorful pools and terraces of the Grand Prismatic Spring, the surreal landscapes of the Norris Geyser Basin, and the bubbling mud pots of the Fountain Paint Pots.

Wildlife Watching: Keep your eyes peeled for Yellowstone's diverse wildlife, including bison, elk, grizzly bears, wolves, and bighorn sheep. Visit Lamar Valley and Hayden Valley, known as prime wildlife viewing areas, especially during the early morning and evening hours.

Scenic Drives: Take a leisurely drive along Yellowstone's scenic roads to soak in the park's stunning vistas and natural beauty. Highlights include the Lamar Valley, the Beartooth Highway, and the Firehole Canyon Drive.

Waterfalls: Admire the park's majestic waterfalls, including the thundering Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River, which plunge into the depths of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. Don't miss the Upper Falls, Gibbon Falls, and the cascades of the Firehole River.

Historic Sites: Explore Yellowstone's rich history at historic sites such as the Old Faithful Inn, a masterpiece of rustic architecture, and the Fort Yellowstone Historic District, which preserves the park's military heritage.

Best Time to Visit:

The best time to visit Yellowstone depends on your interests and priorities. Here's a breakdown of the seasons:

Summer (June to August): Summer is the peak tourist season in Yellowstone, with warm temperatures and long daylight hours ideal for outdoor activities. However, expect crowds, limited lodging availability, and occasional afternoon thunderstorms.

Fall (September to October): Fall brings cooler temperatures, vibrant foliage, and smaller crowds, making it an excellent time for wildlife viewing and photography.

Winter (November to March): Winter transforms Yellowstone into a serene winter wonderland, with opportunities for cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, and wildlife watching amidst snow-covered landscapes. Note that many park facilities are closed during the winter months, and access may be limited due to snowfall.

Spring (April to May): Spring brings thawing landscapes, blooming wildflowers, and the emergence of newborn wildlife. While temperatures can be variable, spring offers opportunities for uncrowded exploration before the summer rush.

Gateway Towns to Yellowstone National Park:

The nearest gateway towns to Yellowstone National Park offer a range of accommodations, dining options, and services for visitors. Here are some of the closest towns:

West Yellowstone, Montana: Located just outside the park's West Entrance, West Yellowstone serves as a popular base camp for exploring the park's western region. The town offers lodging, restaurants, outdoor outfitters, and access to nearby attractions such as Hebgen Lake and the Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center.

Gardiner, Montana: Situated at the park's North Entrance, Gardiner is a charming town with historic architecture, art galleries, and local shops. Visitors can find lodging, dining, and amenities while enjoying proximity to Yellowstone's iconic Lamar Valley and Mammoth Hot Springs.

Cody, Wyoming: While further from the park's entrances, Cody offers a unique blend of Western heritage, cultural attractions, and outdoor recreation opportunities. Explore the Buffalo Bill Center of the West, catch a rodeo at the Cody Nite Rodeo, or embark on scenic drives along the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway.

Final Thoughts:

In conclusion, Yellowstone National Park offers a world of discovery and adventure for intrepid travelers and nature enthusiasts. Whether you're marveling at geysers, spotting wildlife, or hiking through pristine wilderness, the park promises an unforgettable.