#LT-5V
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coolthingsguyslike · 1 year ago
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formlab · 1 year ago
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Mitsubishi LT-5V
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vinylanswer · 2 years ago
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I’ve gotten a few DMs asking about the arm on my LT-5V vertical turntable and why I use it in some posts and not in others. The truth is, the arm doesn’t do much. It holds your record in place upright so that the record doesn’t potentially flop around, but it does that very lightly—the clamp at the end barely touches the record. The arm itself has a next-to-useless gauge etched into it to help you estimate where to drop the needle if you’re looking to play a specific track, but otherwise the arm does little except get in the way of looking at your record. As it happens, maybe a month before the LT-5V returned from restoration, I picked up a Clearaudio Clever Clamp, also known as a Souther Clever Clamp—a clear, short turntable clamp that looks like a glorified drink coaster (the cost of them has exploded recently, by the way; I did not pay $40 for it!). Folks use clamps to pin down a vinyl record while it’s on a turntable; it dampens vibrations, helping clarify the sound, and also helps flatten slightly warped records when you play them. I initially bought it to try on another turntable I have, a Technics SL-5, that has a very low lid, but it was still too tall to fit. I meant to return it, but never got around to it—and just as well because I’ve found it works great on the vertical turntable, improving the sound and the visual aesthetic at the same time.
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postsofbabel · 9 months ago
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sink-water · 2 years ago
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My headphones are dying rn, I'm just trying to listen to music but every 30 seconds it repeats this annoying as beep just in case I forgot in the last half a minute. It's absolutely driving me NUTS and I don't have a charger rn so I went to look up if you can turn it off, and I wanna just. I wanna read this segment from my bluetooth headphones' manual.
"Use the micro USB charging cable to connect the charging port of headphone and USB port which support 5V power (such as AC/DC USB adapter or PC USB port) Note:AC/DC adapter output must be 5V. Otherwise it may damage the headphone. When charging, the red light is on. After fully charged, the blue light is on. lt takes about 2.5hours to charge the headphone fully.
Low battery alann: When the headphone beeps ‘Du DU’ and the red light flashing. you need to charge the headphone as soon as possible. Before using: When you get the headphone,please make sure that the battery has been charged fully before using."
Low battery alann is fucking killing me-
-@pixelated-lagomorph
I thought this was a math problem and then a copypasta for like too many seconds and I can’t even comprehend what ANY of this means
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ariesgamesandminis · 2 years ago
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Restocks are up from Iron Wind Metals for BattleTech!
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#battletech #alphastrike #ironwindmetals #battletechalphastrike #miniatures #catalystgamelabs #battlemech #battletechminiatures #battletechpaintingandcustoms #mecha #tabletop #tabletopgames #tabletopgaming #wargaming #wargames #hobby #scifi #sciencefiction #miniaturepainting #mech #hovertank #6mmminis #6mmscifi #feldherr #dougram #gundam #robotech #armypainter #thearmypainter #chessex
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geiikart · 2 years ago
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Séance 6 à l'IUT
Sixième séance :
Test du nouveau capteur de courant : le LT 200-S
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Ce capteur est mieux adapté pour notre projet. Ce capteur peut supporter un pic de courant maximum de 200A . Il a un ratio = I(primaire)/I(secondaire) = 1/2000. Donc pour nous I(out) max = 200*1/2000 = 0.1 = 100mA. Nous prenons ensuite en compte la sortie V(out) max qui ne doit pas dépasser 5V. On aura donc un résistance en sortie branchée sur la patte M du capteur. R = V(out) max/I(out) max = 5/0.1 = 50 Ohm.
Voici le câblage de notre capteur :
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La résistance va nous permettre d'avoir une tension image du courant et de limiter aussi notre tension de sortie max.
Nous avons donc ensuite testé le capteur et fait des relevées pour avoir l'équation de la courbe.
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Nous obtenons cette courbe ci-dessous :
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Pour un courant de 200A max nous obtiendrons au maximum 4.5V en sortie. Le calcul est effectué avec l'équation de la courbe Tension=22.534*Courant-3.2864.
Nous avons ensuite soudés nos câbles sur le capteur pour qu'il soit opérationnel sur le Kart :
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Tester les batteries du Kart : Ensuite nous devions tester les batteries du Kart et les changer si elles étaient défectueuses. Une fois testés nous avons d��cidé de changer les 4 batteries par des nouvelles. Ces batteries sont chargées à 12.6V chacune, donc en bon état.
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Nous avons aussi modifié notre capteur de tension car le bornier n'était pas adapté à la taille du câble. Nous avons donc changé le bornier et changé les connections qui seront placées sur les batteries. Pour la prochaine séance il faudra remonter les batteries et vérifier le fonctionnement du Kart pour ensuite tester nos capteurs de courant, tension, vitesse et température.
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Nous avons aussi refais nos mesures du capteur vitesse sur le disque de frein avec nos relevés de tensions :
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Quand le capteur est devant de le disque on obtient une tension de 0V et quand le capteur passe devant le trou nous obtenons une tension de 4.9V. Ces valeurs sont cohérentes avec la partie théorique.
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spacelifter87 · 3 years ago
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Mitsubishi LT-5V - Electronic linear-tracking automatic turntable
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dasswerke · 4 years ago
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Mitsubishi LT-5V Vertical Record Player.
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minecart01 · 3 years ago
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[2-Pack] iPhone Fast Charger, 20W USB C Wall Charger with MFi Certified 6.6FT Charger Cable Type C Charger Adapter Compatible with iPhone 12/12 Mini/12 Pro Max/11 Pro Max/XS Max/XS/XR/X,iPad Pro
Price: (as of – Details) Specifications: Max Power Output:20W Output: 5V=3A / 9V=2.22A / 12V=1.66A Input: 100-240V~50/60Hz 0.6A 20W USB-C Power Adapter Delivery: 20W usb c wall charger about 3x faster than regular charging. fast charging your iPhone from 0% up to 50% within 30mins. 6.6 FT MFi Certified LT Cable: MFi certification means flawless compatibility with every device that uses the…
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physicalcomputingwithj · 3 years ago
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Experiment #1 : Photoresistor to Binary Decoder
Experiment conducted 2021/02/23
For my first experiment, I wired the Arduino to read the analog output of a potential divider circuit with a photoresistor in it (a.k.a. a photocell) as a 10-bit value. It then decoded the 4 most significant bits in code and displayed those 4 bits on LEDs.
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Can't see the video? Watch it on YouTube!
Components Used
This experiment uses the Arduino UNO R3 Project Starter Kit.
1 x UNO R3 Controller Board (the Arduino)
1 x Breadboard
Breadboard jumper wires
1 x Photoresistor
1 x 5KΩ resistor
4 x LEDs
4 x 220Ω resistors
Step 1: Wiring The Photoresistor
I first wired the photoresistor as shown below, using the 5KΩ resistor.
A red wire takes a 5V voltage from the Arduino into the circuit. The voltage passes through the 5KΩ resistor, which then goes through the photoresistor. The black wires then carry the voltage through to the ground pin of the Arduino. The two resistors wired in this way creates a potential divider circuit. I've deliberately used two black wires to ground the signal, one connecting the potential divider to the negative rail, and one connecting the negative rail to the Arduino. This will make it easy to ground the LEDs later by connecting them to the negative rail.
The resistance of the first resistor is static, however the resistance of the photoresistor changes depending on the light level. The more light, the less resistance there is. This means that the more light there is, the lower the signal from the potential divider will be.
The orange wire is used to carry the signal from the potential divider into the Arduino. We connect to pin A0, as the analog pins connect to analog to digital converters. These allow us to read the analog singal from the circuit as a 10-bit, arbitrary unit, numerical value. If we used a digital pin instead, it would only be able to read if the value was high or low.
Step 2: Decoding The Signal in Code
By reading the signal carried by the orange wire, we can now read how much light the photoresistor is detecting. The more light, the smaller the signal will be.
We can program our setup() function to read this analog signal into the Arduino. In the meantime, we will also set up pins 10-13 as digital outputs, which we will use to output the 4 most significant bits of the signal to the LEDs.
void setup() { pinMode(A0, INPUT); // Read in the 10-bit "analog" signal from pin A0 pinMode(10, OUTPUT); // Setup pins 10-13 as output pins pinMode(11, OUTPUT); pinMode(12, OUTPUT); pinMode(13, OUTPUT); Serial.begin(9600); // Setup outputting to the serial output. For our purposes, "9600" is just a magic number }
Next we will create a function that takes that signal as input, and outputs the value of a particular bit as a boolean. Here x is the value being decoded and k is which bit we are decoding (0-indexed). (Though it might be slightly erroneous to make this it's own function, it makes the loop code more readable, and the compiler will likely inline the function for us anyway.)
bool decode(int x, int k) { return (x & ( 1 << k )) != 0; }
We now have everything we need to create our loop function. Here we store the signal from the potential divider in variable s, output that value to the serial port, and then one by one decode each bit and update our digital outputs accordingly.
void loop() { int s = analogRead(A0); // Read the singal on pin A0 Serial.println(s); // Output that signal to the serial output digitalWrite(10, decode(s, 6) ? HIGH : LOW); // Decode the 7th bit digitalWrite(11, decode(s, 7) ? HIGH : LOW); digitalWrite(12, decode(s, 8) ? HIGH : LOW); digitalWrite(13, decode(s, 9) ? HIGH : LOW); // Decode the 10th bit delay(10); }
You can see the complete code on GitHub..
Step 3: Displaying The Decoded Signal
Now that our code is decoding the signal and outputting the 4 bits, we want to display that using our four LEDs. Each LED has it's own 220Ω resistor. They are wired in parallel and each in the same way, except that each connects to a different pin on the Arduino. As we want the left-most LED to display the most significant bit (the 10th bit), we will connect it to pin 13.
Depending on what colour and make LEDs you use, you may need to tweak what strength of the LED resistors to achieve the desired brightness
There you have it!
This was a fun first experiment into working with electronic components, which went smoothly enough I'm a little suspicious. Though, I did have to experiment with using different strengths of resistor to achieve the desired results with the LEDs and potential divider. Through experimentation in TinkerCAD, I also came to realise the amount of light received by the photoresistor and the output of the potential divider were not linearly correlated. As the amount of light increased, the signal would first decrease slowly, then start decreasing faster and faster. For this experiment that wasn't a problem, but it did mean it was much easier to deliberately create binary numbers 0-3 than 4-7 using the LEDs. This could be resolved in code by converting the non-linear input of the potential divider into a linear one.
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ariesgamesandminis · 3 years ago
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Just in! The 2nd of 2 huge restocks from Iron Wind Metals for BattleTech! 10-043 Support Lance 20-210 Battlemaster BLR-4S 20-211 Archer ARC-8M 20-249 CRONUS CNS-5M 20-286 HAWK MOTH VTOL 20-332 Behemoth "Stone Rhino" 2 20-382 Heavy LRM Carrier 20-389 Hitman HM-1 20-444 Atlas II AS7-D-H 20-458 Cattlemaster RA-4 Hunter / Herder 20-459 Vedette Medium Tank (Ultra) (2) 20-465 Raptor II RPT-3X 20-477 Rampage RMP-2G 20-5004 Wolverine II WVR-7H 20-5006 Crossbow CRS-6B 20-5035 Wolfhound WLF-2H 20-5074 Dola DOL-1A1 20-5085 Marauder MAD-4X 20-5096 Dragon II DRG-11K 20-5101 Gunsmith CH11-NG 20-5108 King Crab KGC-009 20-5114 Zeus-X ZEU-X4 20-5121 Lu Wei Bing LN-4B 20-5123 Wendigo Prime 20-5129 Calliope CAL-1MAF 20-5137 Gauntlet GTL-1O Prime 20-5140 Ostscout OTT-7J 20-5146 Gambit GBT-1G 20-5147 Uraeus UAE-7R 20-5180 Thunderbolt IIC 2 20-5183 Locust LCT-1V 20-5186 Thunderbolt TDR-5S 20-5193 Hierofalcon Prime / A 20-614 ULLER 'Kit Fox' PRIME 20-647 SIROCCO 20-671 REGULATOR HOVERTANK (2) 20-692 HERCULES HRC-LS-9000 20-695 Fire Falcon Prime 20-697 CHAMELEON CLN-7V 20-723 Warrior Helicopter H-7 20-725 CAVALRY ATTACK HELICOPTER 20-727 Karnov UR Transport 20-740 Behemoth Heavy Tank (2) 20-751 Long Tom Artillery LT-MOB-25 20-769 EXCALIBER EXC-B2 20-778 Crockett / Katana CRK-5003-1 20-779 Manticore Heavy Tank (2) 20-783 J. Edgar Hover Light Tank (2) 20-800 Hex Bases (4) 20-819 Maxim Hover Transport (2) 20-822 Demolisher Tank 20-847 Awesome AWS-9Q 20-866 Javelin JVN-10N 20-873 Spider SDR-5V 20-875 Assassin ASN-2 20-938 MARS ASSAULT VEHICLE 20-957 LAO HU LHU-2B 20-959 Templar TLR1-O 20-985 ARCAS ATLASLTD-12 Limited Edition Jumping Atlas AND A TON MORE! https://www.ariesgamesandminis.com/index.php/shopping/category/12-iron-wind-metals.html #battletech #alphastrike #ironwindmetals #claninvasion #miniatures #catalystgamelabs #battlemech #mechwarrior #mwo #mecha #tabletop #tabletopgames #tabletopgaming #wargaming #wargames #hobby #scifi #sciencefiction #miniaturepainting #mech #hovertank #6mmminis #6mmscifi #feldherr #dougram #gundam #robotech #armypainter #thearmypainter #chessex https://www.instagram.com/p/CV9h2NrLjPf/?utm_medium=tumblr
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usedturntable · 4 years ago
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[30%-OFF!] $118.0 Mitsubishi LT-5V Vertical linear Tracking Turntable. No plastic cover..Tested. CLICK HERE!
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novacash · 4 years ago
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Sciroppo di GRANATINA VINCENZI 1,5 LT IDEALE PER GRANITE BIBITE LONG DRINKS DEL Sciroppo di GRANATINA VINCENZI 1,5 LT IDEALE PER GRANITE BIBITE LONG DRINKS DELICATO 15% DI SUCCO DI LIMONE Marca: STILFRUTTA Marca Produttore: VINCENZI EAN: 8033971300284 http://nemb.it/p/5V=ubLvNz8/tumblr
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napiakcio · 4 years ago
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V4 FM Bluetooth transzmitter és kihangosító, 2 db USB, AUX csak 1.990 Ft
V4 FM Transmitter
Digitális kijelzővel ellátott autós FM transmitter Bluetooth funkcióval
A készüléket használhatja mobiltelefon kihangosítóként, valamint telefonját rá csatlakoztatva hallgathatja kedvenc zenéit út közben
A termék a modern elvárásoknak megfelelően digitális kijelzővel van el látva
Beépített mikrofonnal, tökéletes visszhang kiszűréssel és zajcsökkentési funkcióval rendelkezik, amely lehetővé teszi, hogy hívásait kiváló minőségben bonyolítsa le!
A telefonhívás végén a zene automatikusan újraindul
A beüzemelése, kezelése rendkívül egyszerű, használata pedig gyerekjáték:
helyezze a szivargyújtóba a készüléket, keresse meg az autórádión, a transmitter kijelzőjén látható hullámsávot, és már működik is!
Az úgynevezett "Lt hee" funkció képes két telefont is egy időben kezelni feltéve, hogy nem azonos időben kapnak hívást
Párhuzamosan akár több készülékét is képes tölteni, a rajta található 2db USB csatlakoztatási lehetőségnek köszönhetően!
Támogatja a micro SD kártya használatát is
Tulajdonságok:
Mérete: 110 x 55 x 25 mm
Bemeneti feszültség: 12 V - 24 V
Kimeneti feszültség: 5V 2,1A
Működési hőmérséklet: -15 - 60°C között
Zeneformátum: Mp3, WMA
Frekvencia: 20 Hz - 15 KHz
FM frekvencia: 87.5 - 108 MHz
Bluetooth:4,2+EDR hatótáv 10 m
Modern megjelenésű
Újra hívási és Bluetooth funkcióval
Kikapcsolás esetén is megőrzi a beállításokat
Kiváló hangzás, hanghatás, sztereó
2 db USB kimenettel és Micro SD kártya foglalattal
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julieannsboutique · 4 years ago
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12" Speaker with Charger Line, Wireless Mic and Remote (LT-1203)
12″ Speaker with Charger Line, Wireless Mic and Remote (LT-1203)
12″ Speaker with Charger Line, Wireless Mic and Remote (LT-1203) 12″ Speaker with Charger Line, Wireless Mic and Remote (LT-1203)  UPC: 885249940139 – 12″ Standing portable battery wireless speaker that supports wireless microphone in the color black – Powerful bass with recording function – Rechargeable battery of 5V – Support: USB/TF/AUX/BT/FM This product is dropshipped. For more products…
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