#Jean Butchart

[pghlesbian]

(via The Murder of Trans Man Jean Thomas Butchart)  CN transphobia, murder,* * * * * In any case, Jean’s death just recently came to attention of those who track the lists. It was heartening to read that his friends and family advocated so strongly for him in the media reporting. One imagines he was surrounded by loving and accepting support system while he lived as well. Jean’s mother, Amy Butchart, described him as “a well-loved person and unofficial leader in the local trans community.” Note that the media reports use Jean Thomas’ name assigned at birth and misgender him.Jean Thomas’ was shot at point blanker range in his head. The murderer fired the weapon multiple times. And then committed other murders.

[ghoulpoole]

when we lose another sibling

CONTENT WARNING: death. proceed with care and be kind to yourself.

when we lose another sibling

(and we surely will),

i want you to go outside

and cry

and cry

and cry

and cry.

when we lose another sibling

i want you to scream 

at the top of your lungs:

THEY DID NOT DESERVE TO DIE.

when we lose another sibling

i want you to shout yourself hoarse

at this vast 

indifferent abyss:

IT DID NOT HAVE TO BE LIKE THIS.

when we lose another sibling

i want you to gather flowers

and palm fronds

and fill the street with mourning.

when we lose another sibling

i want you to say their names.

when we lose another sibling

i want you to give the world

a warning:

THINGS WILL NOT BE THE SAME.

----------------------------------------------------------

SAY THEIR NAMES.

Over the past year, these trans and nonbinary people died under violent circumstances in the United States.

Eden Knight - 3/12/2023

Siyah Woodland - 3/24/2023

Ashley Burton - 4/11/2023

Koko Da Doll - 4/18/2023

Banko Brown - 4/27/2023

LaKendra Andrews - 4/29/2023

Om(e) Gandhi - 5/16/2023

Ashia Davis - 6/2/2023

Chanell Perez Ortiz - 6/25/2023

Jacob Williamson - 6/30/2023

Fernielle Mary Mora - 7/6/2023

Onyx John - 7/16/2023

Camdyn Rider - 7/21/2023

Jean Butchart - 8/4/2023

DéVonnie J’Rae Johnson - 8/7/2023

Luis Ángel Díaz Castro - 8/12/2023

Lovely Page - 8/16/2023

Thomas ‘Tom-Tom’ Robertson - 8/17/2023

Alexa Andreevna Sokova - 9/5/2023

Codii Lawrence - 9/5/2023

Bre’Asia Bankz - 9/5/2023

Kylie Monali - 9/7/2023

Charm Wilson - 9/8/2023

Sherlyn Marjorie - 9/17/2023

YOKO - 9/19/2023

A’nee Johnson - 10/4/2023

Chyna Long - 10/8/2023

Dominic Dupree - 10/13/2023

Lisa Love - 10/17/2023

Nova Dunn - 10/17/2023

Skylar Harrison Reeves - 10/20/2023

London Price - 10/23/2023

F.L. “Bubba” Copeland - 11/3/2023

Kejuan Richardson - 11/14/2023

Amiri Reid - 11/14/2023

Kejuan Richardson - 11/14/2023

Shandon Floyd - 11/15/2023

Savannah Ryan Williams - 11/29/2023

Amber Minor - 12/24/2023

Meghan Riley Lewis - 12/27/2023

Kitty Monroe - 1/1/2024

Tristan Bustos - 1/25/2024

Nex Benedict - 2/7/2024

Ash Clatterbuck - 2/27/2024

Righteous TK “Chevy” Hill - 2/28/2024

Reyna Hernandez - 3/8/2024

Diamond Brigman - 3/16/2024

Alex Franco - 3/17/2024

Meraxes Medina - 3/19/2024

AND THOSE WE NOW NAME.

[thelibraryghost]

A Young Person's Introduction to Early 20th-Century Western Fashion

am i hip with the kids yet

General information Dotschkal, Janna. "1920's." FOUND. October 21, 2016. English Heritage. "Fashion Through History: Episode 3 – 1930s." YouTube. April 16, 2023. Rudolph, Nicole. "The History of Standardized Sizes in Womens Fashion and Why They FAILED." YouTube. May 16, 2021. Vintagebursche. "100 Years of Classic Menswear - and what we can learn from each decade." YouTube. February 29, 2020. Zebrowska, Karolina. "1920s Fashion Is Not What You Think It Is." YouTube. May 20, 2018.

Accessories Cox, Abby. "Flappers, Y2K, & Capitalism are Why Women "Don't" Have Pockets." YouTube. January 12, 2023. Cox, Abby. "The Disappointing Truth On Why We Don't Wear Hats Anymore..." YouTube. December 18, 2022. Rudolph, Nicole. "The History of the Iconic Cloche Hat: Making 1920s Fashion." YouTube. September 18, 2022. Rudolph, Nicole. "When Hats were Illegal: Sewing a Goth Edwardian Hat." YouTube. February 21, 2021. Sheehan, Sarah. "Neo-Egyptomania." PatternVault. December 31, 2022. Zebrowska, Karolina. "Why Did We Stop Wearing Hats?" YouTube. April 28, 2020.

Cosmetics Banner, Bernadette. "Making and Testing a Victorian Skincare Routine." YouTube. April 8, 2023. English Heritage. "1930s Makeup Tutorial | History Inspired | Feat. Amber Butchart and Rebecca Butterworth." YouTube. December 18, 2018. Holland, Evangeline. "On How to Be Lovely." Edwardian Promenade. April 15, 2010. Rudolph, Nicole. "The Controversial History of Color Season Analysis." YouTube. November 4, 2023.

Fabrics Rudolph, Nicole. "The History of Elastic." YouTube. July 4, 2021. Rudolph, Nicole. "Wearing Overalls to Boycott Fashion Greedflation? Weird History of 1920." YouTube. March 16, 2024.

Gowns and formal wear Banner, Bernadette. "I Redesigned Mary Poppins' Jolly Holiday Dress Based on REAL Edwardian Lingerie Gowns." YouTube. February 20, 2021. Banner, Bernadette. "I Remade Mary Poppins’ Dress to be Actually Edwardian." YouTube. July 9, 2022. Cox, Abby. "Alexander McQueen & the Patriarchy Problem in Modern Fashion." YouTube. October 20, 2023. Cox, Abby. "What Makes a Gown Haute Couture (like House of Worth) in Victorian and Edwardian Eras?" YouTube. September 19, 2021. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "An Edwardian Woman's Fashion Evolution." YouTube. June 4, 2022. Oakes, Leimomi. "Terminology: what is a lingerie dress or lingerie frock? (and blouse, and skirt)." The Dreamstress. July 21, 2018. Rudolph, Nicole. "Stop Idolizing Coco Chanel: a shocking history of theft." YouTube. January 13, 2024. Rudolph, Nicole. "The Truth about the Fringed Flapper: Making 1920s Evening Dresses." YouTube. November 6, 2022. Vintagebursche. "1920s Theme Party - How to dress." YouTube. December 9, 2023. Zebrowska, Karolina. "1920s Fashion Encyclopedia, Pt 1: Daywear." YouTube. November 27, 2019.

Hair care and styling Banner, Bernadette. "I Tried Following a Real Edwardian Hair Care Routine." YouTube. May 12, 2020. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "Getting Dressed in the Edwardian Era / Gibson Girl Hairstyle Tutorial." YouTube. June 12, 2020. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "Titanic-era Hair Tutorial // Getting Dressed in the 1910's." YouTube.September 4, 2020. SnappyDragon. "Historical hair myths debunked : How often should you wash your hair—daily shampoo or no shampoo?" YouTube. August 12, 2022. Zebrowska, Karolina. "Weird Edwardian Beauty Tips." YouTube. February 11, 2017.

Laundry and starching Banner, Bernadette. "Ok but how did the Edwardians WASH these dresses?" YouTube. August 3, 2022.

Outerwear Cox, Abby. "Athleisure: Destroying Fashion & the Environment." YouTube. January 18, 2024. Rudolph, Nicole. "150 years of Masc Women causing a Moral Panic." YouTube. June 17, 2023. Rudolph, Nicole. "The History of Jeans, T-shirts, and Hoodies: Time Travel 101." YouTube. March 20, 2022. Zebrowska, Karolina. "SPRING/SUMMER FASHION TRENDS REVIEW but it's 1936 (ft. original fabric samples!)." YouTube. April 22, 2022.

Shoes Rudolph, Nicole. "I Made Witchy Edwardian Shoes by Hand!" YouTube. March 14, 2021. Rudolph, Nicole. "Making 100 year old Comfy Slippers: Free Pattern!" YouTube. December 30, 2023. Rudolph, Nicole. "The Myth of Tiny Feet "Back Then"." YouTube. September 26, 2021. Rudolph, Nicole. "The True History of Stiletto Heels : the battle between Ferragamo and Dior." YouTube. August 26, 2023. Zebrowska, Karolina. "Why Is No One Talking About 1930s Shoes?" YouTube. September 15, 2020.

Undergarments Banner, Bernadette. "1903 Patented Bustle Pad Reconstruction." YouTube. June 8, 2019. Banner, Bernadette. "Achieving That Classic Edwardian Shape: Reconstructing a 1902 Bust Bodice." YouTube. April 16, 2020. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "So What are Guimpes Anyway? // Examining Antique Edwardian Guimpes." YouTube. August 21, 2020. Lady Rebecca Fashions. "They Wore Corsets in the 1920's?!" YouTube. January 29, 2022. Rudolph, Nicole. "Did Brassieres End the Corset?" YouTube. February 28, 2021. Rudolph, Nicole. "Dressing in Edwardian Clothing: Undergarments and Layers of 1907." YouTube. November 1, 2020. Rudolph, Nicole. "How Flappers got their Figure: the 1920s Silhouette." YouTube. July 10, 2022. SnappyDragon. "How pin-up photos fooled dress history : the making and marketing of lingerie pictures." YouTube. April 1, 2023.

[pashterlengkap]

Trans folks will someday be revered as the visionaries they are. Until then, the violence must end.

The Human Rights Campaign has reported that at least 30 trans and gender non-conforming people were killed in the United States in 2023. 87% were people of color, with 50% being Black trans women. 77% were murdered with a firearm, and 50% were misgendered or deadnamed by authorities or the press. First, let’s say their names: Savannah Ryan Williams Jean Butchart Kejuan Richardson Amiri Reid LaKendra Andrews London Price Lisa Love Dominic Dupree a.k.a. Dominic Palace A’nee Johnson Sherlyn Marjorie Chyna Long Luis Ángel Díaz Castro YOKO Thomas ‘Tom-Tom’ Robertson DéVonnie J’Rae Johnson Camdyn Rider Jacob Williamson Chanell Perez Ortiz Ashia Davis  Banko Brown Koko Da Doll Ashley Burton  Ta’Siyah Woodland Tortuguita Chashay Ashanti Henderson Maria Jose Rivera Rivera Zachee Imanitwitaho’ Unique Banks KC Johnson Jasmine “Star” Mack History is replete with groups and individuals facing colossal odds for simply expressing their truth, and for that, members of those groups were often forced to pay the ultimate price. Never Miss a Beat Subscribe to our daily newsletter to stay ahead of the latest LGBTQ+ political news and insights. Promotions (occasional) * Week in Good News (one on the Weekend) * Week in Review (one on the Weekend) * Daily Brief (one each weekday) * Sign Up Related: Americans once overwhelmingly supported trans rights. Anti-trans lawmakers have changed that. The political divide is creating “two Americas” for LGBTQ+ people. Abolitionists joined together to work for the immediate end to the institution of slavery and the cessation of racial discrimination and segregation. They faced steep opposition from many quarters, including a number of Christian denominations who asserted that sacred scripture not only condoned but mandated the practice of slavery.  Young people conducted a number of sit-in demonstrations at Southern lunch counters to end Jim Crow laws of segregated public facilities, all while enduring the abusive taunts of onlookers and the crashing batons of local police. Demonstrators faced imprisonment and the imposition of permanent criminal records. Feminists formed a new wave in the fight for women’s suffrage against a high tide of obstructionism within a patriarchal system of male domination and misogyny, and an attitude that the enfranchisement of women would destroy Christianity and civilization itself. The Church convicted physicist and astronomer Galileo Galilei on the charge of heresy by insisting that the Earth revolves around the Sun, rather than, as per Church teaching, that the Earth was the immovable center of the universe with the Sun revolving around the Earth. Galileo spent the remainder of his life under house arrest. Joan of Arc, the teenager who helped defeat the English in her native France, became one of the greatest war heroes in French history. In spite of this, she was tried by the Catholic Church on the charge of heresy in rejecting Church authority in preference for direct inspiration from God, and most importantly, by donning men’s clothing. Joan died by burning at the stake. Alan Turing, mathematician, logician, philosopher, cryptanalyst, and one of the original creators of the computer was largely responsible for cracking Nazi coded messages, which many believe shortened the war by two to four years. Many also say he saved Great Britain. However, the British government chose to convict Turing on the charge of being homosexual and ordered him to undergo “chemical castration” by taking estrogen injections as an alternative to spending two years in prison. Turing took his life a few weeks before his 42nd birthday. Governments and powerful individuals have long devised ways of silencing opposition for the purpose of maintaining and extending their control and domination. They commit genocide upon the true human liberators, the profits, the visionaries who advocate for a just and free world. These… http://dlvr.it/T0Yg34

[boreal-sea]

Lemme go talk to Brandon Teena real quick about all the male privilege he has - oh wait, I can't. Because he was brutally murdered for being transmasc.

Ok, I'll go talk to Roberto González, or Ebeng Mayor, or Matle C., or Jean Butchart, or Camdyn Rider (who was 8 months pregnant), or Jacob Williamson, or Banko Brown, or Luis Ángel Díaz Castro, or Rodrigo Ventocilla, or Ray Muscat, or Dustin Parker or...

Oh wait. They were also all murdered for being transgender. I can't talk to them. They're dead. And those are just the names I could find with a quick google search.

Trans men do have it easier you fucking reactionary antifeminist idiot. Cry about your male privilege somewhere else. Boo fuckin hoo.

A transmasculine indigenous boy was just beaten to death for being transmasculine. real male privilege he had huh. Have some fucking respect.

[froufrousp]

Blusa de buclê 60’s Tam M+Chapéu pecador jeans The Butchart Gardens 🌸 https://www.instagram.com/p/B261CeIJaJ2/?igshid=1kw2qa7mtsgly

[rposervices]

Women’s wear in the office – how has this developed?

In 2017, the UK was embroiled in a heated debate regarding womenswear in the office. Thanks to the government rejecting the proposal to ban such gender-specific workplace dress codes — there have been a number of other changes to the office wardrobe of women over the years. Join us as we take a virtual trip down memory lane to see how the last 100 years has shaped women’s office wear. Despite the leaps and bounds made in recent decades concerning women’s rights, the ability for an employer to enforce a dress code upon women, namely that they could be contractually obliged to wear high heels, seemed ludicrous.

1920s and 1930s

According to Amber Butchart, a fashion historian who spoke to Harper’s Bazaar, women’s workwear hasn’t always enjoyed the freedoms of the modern day — even with the heels debate! Butchart noted that in the 1920s, typical work attire for women was restricted to: ‘simple, neat dresses, or separates, were deemed appropriate in offices and at shop counters throughout the 1920s and 30, think Joan Crawford in Grand Hotel (1932).’

1940s and 1950s

The 40s would be the defining decade for women walking into a more masculine wardrobe as women picked up the jobs left behind by men who had gone off to fight in the war. As women left their family homes to work in an array of jobs, from ammunitions to office work, new garments were needed to allow these workers the same practicalities as their male counterparts. Wide pant leg styles and blouses were staples for women working office jobs, while new overalls had to be created for women in the factories. Often, these jobs had an additional requirement of their new female workers — the addition of maintaining a certain beauty standard. From outlining certain haircuts and make-up shades to complement the uniforms, the idea seems quite preposterous now, especially considering the dire necessity for women to work these jobs at the time! The new workwear styles would be kept in women’s wardrobes long after the war came to an end and women were let go from their jobs and told to return to being wives and house-keepers. Of course, this was not the future path women had built for themselves…

1960s and 1970s

Suits hit their stride in the 60s for women, with Yves Saint Laurent designing the iconic women’s formal tuxedo, Le Smoking, in 1966. 15 years later, the designer named Le Smoking as the most important piece that he had ever created. The suit has been updated in every new collection since, and it paved the way for women looking to channel powerful vibes in the =workplace.

1980s and 1990s

The 80s were, among many things, the decade of the power suit. Bright, bold colours, intricate button details, and of course, those notorious shoulder pads. These suits were a popular choice for women’s office wear and allowed women to incorporate both the masculine sense of a suit with more than a hint of their own personality, thanks to the array of colours. Not all suits in the 80s were eccentric though. Consider this decade’s female Prime Minister, Margaret Thatcher — her stylist, Margaret King, was quoted as saying about the Prime Minister’s choice of suits as being a result of working ‘in a man’s world’. 1990’s era Hillary Clinton was part of that same world and was famous for her pant-suit look. She was the first First Lady to wear trousers for her official portrait. Meanwhile, in the offices, women took a similar fancy to pant-suits over dramatic 80s power-suits.

2000s and 2010s

The 2000s and 2010s brought something a divide into workwear, but for once, it hasn’t been between genders. Instead, differences in office wear tend to be rooted in what industry the office is within, rather than whether or not a worker is male or female. For example, while a law office might have adopted a more classic and traditional look, a creative office space tends to emphasise comfort in its employees first and foremost. These creative spaces allow both men and women to be a little more casual, opting for a smart pair of jeans, comfy flats or women’s court shoes, and tee-shirts or casual blouses rather than full suits.

2020s and into the future

As we head into the future of office wear, we’re likely to continue to see a blurring of lines between male and female-distinct office attire, as well as a rules and regulations surrounding uniform codes. Workplaces are scrambling to seem both professional and modern, meaning many are relaxing dress codes in the workplace — the need to wear more formal attire comes from a personal choice more than a forced one these days, for both men and women, so this is likely to continue. Read the full article

[lindenwoodhumanities-blog]

Lindenwood Humanities Students Recognized at Spring Honors Convocation

Several Lindenwood University School of Humanities’ undergraduate students were recognized with prestigious awards at the Lindenwood University’s Honors Convocation on April 23, 2018.  Lauren Baker, a double major in Religion and International Business, received the annual Easton Award.  The Schoenhard American Heritage Award went to Kristin Laney, History, while The Rose Lyn Zanville Leadership and Character Award was presented to an Economics & International Relations major, Marshall S. Green.  Giulia Croce, a triple major in International Relations, Political Science, and Economics, received the Maria Leonard Alpha Lambda Delta Senior Book Award.  In addition, the Humanities honors ceremony, officiated by Dr. Alan Myers, recognized the following exceptional students:

Ryan T. Butchart, Spanish & Physical Education, The Spanish Award

Rachel Gann, Phi Alpha Theta History Award

Katherine Gierer, English, The Howard Barnett Essay Award

 Benjamin Harris, Political Science, Rufus Easton Debating Society Award

 Alyson Kinstner, Political Science & Public Administration, Pi Sigma Alpha Award

Keyana Mapp, David R. Williams Political Science Award

Haley Nipper, French, The French Award

Johnny Peddicord, Political Science, Public Administration Award

Elizabeth Peterson, English, The Linda L. Ross Creative Writing Award

Alexa Pressley, Advertising & Public Relations, Jean Fields Writing Award

Iiris Emilia Virta, Biological Sciences, Donna Card Charron Philosophy Award

Julia Waernerup, English Literature & Religion, Harmon Religion Award

Congratulations to all of our award-winning students!

[fashiontrendin-blog]

The Key Men’s Style Lessons To Learn From The Military

http://fashion-trendin.com/the-key-mens-style-lessons-to-learn-from-the-military/

The Key Men’s Style Lessons To Learn From The Military

War, huh, yeah. What’s it been good for? Absolutely nothing. Apart from, perhaps, shaping practically everything hanging in the male wardrobe today.

The 20th century’s conflicts may have been entirely undesirable, but it’s possible that without them, men would still be trapped in a sartorial straitjacket.

Crew neck T-shirts, chinos, bomber jackets; all infiltrated fashion from the front line, and few are showing any signs of retreating, but there was a time when the two were interdependent.

“It’s more of a two-way street than people realise,” says Amber Butchart, style historian and lecturer at The London College of Fashion. “Centuries ago, when military uniforms were standardised, most of the design came from the fashionable cuts of the time.” The flipside of this was the inspiration those military adaptations then gave back to designers, in New York, Paris and London.

Maybe it’s the timeless, functional nature of the garments that so appeals to men. Perhaps it’s the associations with heroism. Either way, it’s hard to go wrong with military clothing. Which is why enlisting these battle-dress staples is mission critical for your wardrobe.

Menswear Pieces That Started In The Military

The Trench Coat

Men’s fashion and military clobber have been close allies for so long that the origins of individual pieces are sometimes murky. As is the case with the trench coat, with fellow countrymen Aquascutum and Burberry both staking a claim.

“Thomas Burberry was commissioned by the war office to create a piece of outerwear suitable for soldiers on the front line during World War I,” says Butchart, siding with the latter. “He then developed a water-repellent cloth and the trench coat as we know it now came into being.”

Today the sleek, belted silhouette is considered a luxury essential and as such has spawned many variations, including long and short cuts, single- and double-breasted, and even modern colour-pop styles.

White T-Shirt

It’s hard to imagine what life would be like if arguably the most iconic menswear item in the world remained nothing more than an undergarment.

“It’s not so much a trending piece as a perennial relied upon by many,” says Henry Wilfrid, a men’s stylist who has worked with brands including Tom Ford, Dunhill and Reiss.

The most classic version of the T-shirt, a short-sleeved white cotton crew neck, first sprung to life as standard issue schmutter for the US Navy and later the army in the 1910s. When the war ended, tens of thousands of soldiers took the fashion home with them. Brando, Dean, Beckham. The rest, as they say, is history.

Pilot’s Watch

Ever since man first took to the skies, watchmakers have been working hard to create a ticker to help him land at his destination on time.

The pilot’s watch is the fruit of their labour. “It’s a great example of function over form,” says Terry Markham, head of buying at WatchShop.com. “The beauty of the pilot design is that it comes in a simple colour palette, is easy to read, is not overtly branded, and wears well dressed up or down.”

One of the most popular choices on the market, the best pilot’s watches are chronographs with features such as unidirectional bezels, lumed hands and are flanked by either a leather or nato strap.

The Bomber Jacket

Like most military clothing, the bomber jacket was originally developed as utility wear, designed to keep pilots warm in cockpits so rickety and thin that freezing was as much a risk as being shot out of the sky.

Early styles were cut from heavy-duty leather and lined with insulating sheepskin (more closely resembling what is now known as an ‘aviator jacket’), but today it’s more common to see the nylon MA-1 model flying up and down runways.

“The bomber jacket has been a key piece for a few seasons now,” says Wilfrid. “For a more formal interpretation, look out for leather trims or even styles made with a velvet fabric.”

Chinos

When it comes to trousers that sit slap bang in the middle of smart and casual, you’d be hard-pressed to find a pair that fit the bill better than chinos.

“Before landing on college campuses across the US in the mid-20th century, chinos were built for battle,” says Chris Gove, creative director of British menswear brand Percival. Developed from khakis, which were created as a way to camouflage British troops stationed in India, chinos came crafted from pure twill cotton in a sandy, light-brown shade to provide a hard-wearing and comfortable means of going low-profile during war in dusty places.

“Nowadays, chinos will do little to keep you incognito, but they do offer an updated, streamlined way of nailing Ivy League style, with the same hardy wear.”

Desert Boots

While stationed in Burma in the 1940s, a young Nathan Clark clocked the comfortable suede boots worn by off-duty officers and did what any sane, budding fashion tycoon would have. He said “I’m having that” and went home to put the footwear into production.

More than half a century later, the desert boot is one of the most popular and versatile shoes around.

“It’s the best compromise between smart and casual,” says Daniel Johnson, a stylist who has worked with the likes of Ralph Lauren, Paul Smith and Hermès. “I’d personally look for a pair made of suede rather than leather, styled with selvedge denim jeans or soft cashmere trousers.”

The Peacoat

Military menswear doesn’t just come from the skies or dry land, the heroes at sea have provided civilians with countless modern essentials, including the peacoat.

A product of 19th-century nautical attire, this cropped, double-breasted style made inroads into men’s fashion after World War II due to the post-war surplus and subsequent low cost.

“The Navy heritage is why peacoats tend to be navy,” explains Mr Porter US editor Dan Rookwood, who suggests looking for a modern style constructed with a high wool content. “It’ll come with a higher price tag, but the investment will be well worth it.

Cardigan

As hard as it is to believe, your granddad isn’t the originator of the cardigan. This geek chic classic also has military roots.

“The seventh Earl of Cardigan, James Thomas Burdenell lays claim to its parentage, having commissioned it for British soldiers during the Crimean War,” says Gove. Initial designs were sleeveless vests loosely based on waistcoats, but designs with sleeves soon followed.

The cardigan is now loved for its insulation, not only by OAPs but practically every style tribe and subculture imaginable. If you still need convincing that the cardigan is cool, Kurt Cobain couldn’t get enough of them.

Combat Trousers

We’re sure cargo trousers came in for a tough ride during World War Two, when British forces relied on their patch pockets to hold field dressings. But that’s arguably nothing compared to what they endured during the nineties at the hands of boybands.

Fortunately, these functional combat kecks have been increasing their rank in recent seasons. “Side patch pockets on tailored casual trousers have been a slow-burning trend for a while, and we’re now seeing them on the high street,” says Wilfrid.

No longer the preserve of weekend dads, designers and brands have worked hard to produce slimmed-down cargo trousers that could easily sub in for trousers on more casual days. Providing they don’t zip-off at the knee.

Style Lessons To Learn From The Military

Go All-Out Green

Even if a traditional military garment isn’t your wardrobe weapon of choice, you can still sign up to military style by utilising its preferred colour palette.

“Shades of green are a key colour trend,” says Wilfrid, no doubt because of their ability to be worn tonally head to toe, or flank everything from black denim when worn as a coat, to a suit when worn as a knitted tie.

Get Suited For War

Fond as we were of our childhood Action Man figures, dressing like one in later life should never be the aim. Remember that military coats, duffles and peas in particular, can join forces with a range of other attire.

“The peacoat is hugely versatile in terms of styling,” says Rookwood. “Its length is longer than a blazer, and it tends to be roomier in the shoulder so can easily be layered over a suit.”

“That said, it also looks slick worn casually with dark selvedge jeans and brown brogue boots.” In short: pick right and you’ll have the armour for all-out smart offence and a more conservative, casual defence.

Pore Over The Details

You don’t need to be a particularly big fan of Michael Jackson (or battle reenactment, for that matter) to know that military garments can be heavy on details.

“These were born out of necessity on the front line,” says Butchart. “Epaulettes were there to hold gloves or caps. While waist straps were originally used to hold grenades or swords.”

Respect the functions, but remember that too much detailing can make an item look more casual. When buying new, favour examples with fewer bells and whistles to ensure they’ll work better with everything in your wardrobe.

Go Commando

The first rubber lug soles to hit the footwear market featured a tread design called a ‘Carrarmato‘, the Italian word for tank. So it’s little surprise the hiking-inspired design would soon end up on the feet of foot soldiers.

Today, rugged commando soles aren’t only a way to easily navigate rain, ice and snow, they’re also a way of saluting the forces without straying into fancy dress territory.

“Recently these thick tread soles have been applied to everything from boots to city shoes like brogues and Derbies,” says Gove. “Wear them with a suit or simple trousers and T-shirt combination.” Overdoing it is your enemy here.

Keep Those Boots Polished

Military men will go to extreme lengths to get their best boots gleaming, even after a 10-mile hill run in mud bath conditions. So, there’s no excuse for you to have a pair of grubby stompers at the ends of your legs.

“It’s important to look after leather shoes using a spray or protector because leather is a natural product so reacts to the weather and temperatures,” says Kurt Geiger buying manager Robbie Evans. “By treating them, you’ll be able to protect and prolong the natural fibres and overall look and quality for longer.”

If wary about chemicals on your clodhoppers, you can use a natural leather conditioner made from something like beeswax. Massage this into the leather in circular motions whenever it feels dry to help to keep your shoes soft and supple.

Basic Training

As far as military wardrobes go, it’s all about the basics. Without an army of classics like the white T-shirt, there’s no hope of advancing your style game.

“If you don’t have the basics in your wardrobe already you’ll find it hard to put outfits together,” says Sarah Gilfillan, a stylist and founder of men’s personal shopping service SartoriaLab. “These pieces give a blank canvas on which to add more trend-driven or statement pieces.”

Cover your bases with a well-fitting white tee, sky blue Oxford shirt, grey sweatshirt, quality wool overcoat and some sturdy dark denim.

Embrace The Tuck

A marine whose shirt-tucking knowhow maxes out at ‘shove it in my pants and hope for the best’ can expect nose-to-nose screaming from a red-faced drill sergeant.

For civvies, however, there’s no such person to keep us in sartorial step. Which means it pays to learn how to do it the right way without prompt.

“The military tuck refers to a technique of tucking a shirt neatly into trousers,” explains Gilfillan. “It’s achieved by pulling the shirt down and tucking in tightly before making a vertical fold at either side of the waist to get rid of any excess fabric.” With no fabric at ease around your waist, you’re good to go.

Organise With Military Precision

Ever wonder how army guys can bolt out of bed with a second’s notice at five in the morning and still look put together? One word: organisation.

“Although it may not come naturally, it pays off to be organised with your wardrobe,” says Gilfillan. “A lot of guys will buy items, then find they have nothing to wear them with. When adding to your wardrobe ask yourself if you can wear something with at least three different things.”

As well as this, consider ordering items in your wardrobe by type, so it’s obvious what your missing in your wardrobe and take some time at the weekend to build outfits for future reference.