#Honi soit qui mal y pense

[dozydawn]

Vintage French Lipstick Handkerchief

it reads Honni soit qui mal y pense. “shame on him who thinks evil of it.”

[thepastisalreadywritten]

In Pictures: A History of Garter Day

The annual Garter Day procession, where The King and the Knights process in grand velvet robes, glistening insignia and plumed hats, is one of the most traditional ceremonies in the Royal calendar.

Take a look at Garter Day over the years...

NOTE:

The Most Noble Order of the Garter is an order of chivalry founded by Edward III of England in 1348.

It is the most senior order of knighthood in the British honours system, outranked in precedence only by the Victoria Cross and the George Cross.

The Order of the Garter is dedicated to the image and arms of Saint George, England's patron saint.

Appointments are at the sovereign's sole discretion and are usually in recognition of a national contribution, for public service, or for personal service to the sovereign.

Membership of the Order is limited to the sovereign, the Prince of Wales, and no more than 24 living members or 'Companions.'

The Order also includes supernumerary knights and ladies (e.g., members of the British royal family and foreign monarchs).

The order's emblem is a garter with the motto Honi soit qui mal y pense (Anglo-Norman for 'Shame on him who thinks evil of it') in gold lettering.

Members of the Order wear it on ceremonial occasions.

[loumandaniel]

lestat: i will write this book and become a rockstar to protect my sweet louis. so, to the vampires out there, know this: armand was beautiful covered in the filth of les innocents. the seductive dance of our minds...honi soit qui mal y pense. also, gabrielle’s breasts were a magnificent sight after her change. oh, who is gabrielle? WELL

[catherinetheprincessofwales]

Wishing a healthy recovery for King Charles III a lifetime spent working for the environment, community inclusion, historical preservation and housing among many other things. Honi soit qui mal y pense.

[mtlibrary]

Provenance mysteries: Opera, quae exstant L. Annaei Seneca

This edition’s provenance mystery features a three volume set of the collected work of Seneca: Opera, quae exstant L. Annaei Senecae ; cum integris Justi Lipsii, J. Fred. Gronovii, & selectis variorum commentariis illustrata ; accedunt Liberti Fromondi in quæstionum naturalium libros & [apokolokuntosin] notæ & emendationes, printed by Daniel Elzevir in Amsterdam in 1672. It includes commentaries by the noted Dutch humanist Justus Lipsius and botanist Johannes Fredericus Gronovius amongst others.

As can be seen in the photograph, the book is bound in vellum over boards with a gold-tooled armorial crest on the front (and back) boards. The coat-of-arms has the motto ‘Honi soit qui mal y pense,’ part of the British royal motto, and also used by knights and ladies of the Order of the Garter. The coat-of-arms is probably easily identifiable by someone with the knowledge and skills, but remains a mystery to this writer. There is no other provenance information in the book itself, and no record of its acquisition by the Library.

The book was published during the period when Daniel Elzevir worked with his cousin Louis Elzevir in Amsterdam, printing and publishing a range of classical Latin texts in octavo format, such as this one. The gilt armorial stamp and vellum binding sets this book apart from many of the books in our collection, which tend to have undecorated calf bindings. Vellum and parchment bindings are commonly found in continental libraries, but their presence is not as common in seventeenth century English libraries. Vellum was an expensive material to use as well, suggesting that this was a high status item for its owner.

The book features in the Library’s current exhibition: Mapping the Early Modern Inns of Court. This exhibition highlights some of the areas that the ‘Mapping the Early Modern Inns of Court’ group has explored in seminars and publications: recreation (fencing, revelling, and gaming); literary culture at the Inns; religion and preaching; learning the law and verbal skills; travel and exploration endeavours. Barristers regarded Seneca as a model orator and lawyer, and they frequently studied, quoted, and translated his works. They were taught Senecan verse while still at school, and continued to study, and translate his works as adults.

As ever, if you recognise this armorial device or have further comments please get in touch: library@middletemple.org.uk.

Renae Satterley

Librarian

August 2024

[maximumwobblerbanditdonut]

Honi soit qui mal y pense “Shame on him who thinks evil of it” (the motto of the Order of the Garter the highest of all British knighthoods except in Scotland)

The beautiful library at Barnbougle Castle in Scotland! 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

This majestic 13th-century castle is one of Scotland's hidden treasures. Situated just outside Edinburgh and within the Dalmeny estate, Barnbougle Castle enjoys spectacular views over the Firth of Forth. Inside is no less impressive - rooms include a sixty-foot-long Banqueting hall and vast Scottish library.

The Primrose family, now Earls of Rosebery, bought the estate in 1662 and have been here ever since.

In the 1880's the 5th Earl turned his attention to Barnbougle and commissioned a design to fit his new life. As a scholar's retreat, it has six libraries and only one bed. As a statesman's study, it has comfortable, welcoming rooms for meetings and conversations. From the balcony he could practice his speeches.

The books cover all subjects from politics, to poetry to classics and geology - all of this used to provide reference for his many speeches.

The castle was entirely reconstructed in 1881 and it's full of history. It was primarily built to house the private library of Archibald Philip Primrose, 5th Earl of Rosebery, the 1st Earl of Midlothian who became Prime Minister of the United Kingdom in 1894.

The beautiful Scottish Library features a selection of picture lights in gold finish, which were installed to light up the book collection as spotlights couldn't be placed in the wooden ceiling.

The Great Hall (once used as a space to practice speeches ahead of delivering them to parliament) features a number of picture lights and spotlights in bronze to ensure that all the rich details in the fabric of the tapestries were brought to life.

The Reading Room includes a selection of classic paintings; picture lights were the perfect choice here striking the right balance between lighting up the artworks and matching the historic setting and feeling of the castle.

Today, although the castle's facilities have been brought up to date, it maintains its original character. It gives the warm feeling that the man who built it for his own use and pleasure has only just stepped out.

#BarnbougleCastle #13th-centurycastle #Scotland #Dalmenyestat #privatelibrary #EarlofRosebery #speeches #PrimeMinister1894 #ArchibaldPhilipPrimrose #1stEarlofMidlothian

Posted 12th August 2024

[alterugdalf]

Zusammenfassung Amthor in der Debatte zum AfD-Verbotsantrag:

Die AfD muss dringend verboten werden. Aber nicht jetzt. Jetzt wäre der falsche Zeitpunkt.

Honi soit qui mal y pense

[forestdeath1]

Here’s a thought on why the Black’s motto is in french - the tapestry was a gift (wedding or political favour, who knows) from another pure-blood family (I guess of Norman origin), and of course the Blacks would display it proudly, as it shows their lineage and their influence.

I think it's possible. A tapestry with a French motto could have been a "gift" from another noble family as a sign of an important political alliance.

And considering that the main language of the court, aristocracy, and administration from the time of the Norman Conquest until the 14th century was Insular French and that literature and many official documents were written in it, it is also likely that the Blacks had to adapt to the new ruling power (the tapestry was made in the 13th century tho.)

Actually, their motto is not weird at all. Even the United Kingdom's coat of arms has two mottos in French. Dieu et mon droit is the British monarch’s motto (was first used by Richard I). And Honi soit qui mal y pense is the motto of the Order of the Garter, one of the oldest knightly orders, founded by Edward III in the 14th century.

But in my two fanfics, I don't even use the pure Anglo-Saxon headcanon for the Blacks. I use there another hc – the Blacks originally came from southern Scotland (the surname Black existed in Scotland) and their ancestors often married Anglo-Saxons. Then, the branches split, one lived in Scotland, the other in England, where they assimilated with Anglo-Saxon nobility and continued to marry Anglo-Saxon families. Despite the split, both branches kept in touch through marriages, which helped them share family traditions. This also helped both branches strengthen their positions and influence in different parts of the British Isles.

After the Normans took over the Anglo-Saxons, the Blacks resisted and took part in rebellions, especially in the north (Scotland remained independent from the invasion, the Scottish branch and Scotland itself supported these uprisings). The Normans, of course, were stronger (they also had wizards helping them, the first ancestor of the Malfoys :D), plus, considering that William didn't deal kindly with rebels, everyone eventually had to submit. I hc that they didn't want to give up their influence in England, so they didn't flee to Scotland, but stayed on their "own land." "Scotland" also sometimes made dynastic marriages with "England" after the Norman invasion, despite the strained relations.

This might be a bit naive, but I think the Blacks kept their motto in Old English up until the 13th century, which might have caused discontent among the Norman nobility and wizards, even though they all comfortably spoke Insular French by then. And during the First War of Scottish Independence Scotland made the Auld Alliance with France in the late 13th century specifically to fight against England.

Long story short, I hc that their Scottish branch disappeared at the end of the 13th century during the First War. I mean, they ended up with no heirs, several died in the war, some went missing, some were poisoned, etc. And it was at this point that the Blacks decided to make their motto in French – first, as a realisation of their defeat, but at the same time as one last "jab" at the Normans. The Normans would think that the Blacks did it because they had finally totally assimilated, but the Blacks would know it was because France had been ally in the fight against the Normans who destroyed their family in Scotland.

I just like the idea of giving the Blacks a Scottish heritage, and adding a double rebellious and independent spirit to their blood. :D

[stephensmithuk]

Garter and Silk

No, not the name of a pair of detectives with red hot chemistry solving murders, but two items somewhat relevant to this story.

The Right Hon. the Earl of Thornaby, K.G. is the holder of two very important titles in the UK. Right Honourable means he is a Privy Counsellor, a title given to high-ranking politicians and which gives them access to highly secret information. You retain membership for life unless you resign or do something really stupid.

But I'm going to talk more about a organisation with a somewhat silly name. K.G. stands for "Knight of the Garter", which means Thornaby is a member of the Order of the Garter. Covering England and Wales, this is the highest state honour you can get that does not involve the serious possiblity of dying getting it; the two above it being the Victoria and George Crosses. Scotland has the Order of the Thistle, just below it in precedence. Ireland had the Order of St Patrick; with no new member added since 1936 and the last surviving member dying in 1974, it is essentially defunct.

Tradition has it that the order was founded by Edward III in 1348, but records suggest it was actually slightly early. The most popular version of the name is that a woman at a dance in Calais had her garter fall down. As courtiers sniggered at the wardrobe malfunction, Edward picked up the garter, returned it and said "Honi soit qui mal y pense!", which is generally translated as "Shame on him who thinks evil of it". The story comes from the 1460s and may well have been conocted to explain why the order was named after what was then a feminine garment.

As you can see from the link, the blue belt has a prominent role in the royal coat of arms used outside of Scotland. The Scottish version has the Order of the Thistle's motto Nemo me impune lacessit or "No-one provokes me with impunity", which definitely sounds more stereotypically Scottish!

It also features in the simplified version of the arms used by the British government, featuring on all British passports.

Membership is limited to the monarch (of course currently Charles III), the Prince of Wales (Prince Williams) and 24 living members. There are also Royal Knights and Ladies, basically members of the Royal Family like Queen Camilla, the Duke of Edinburgh (Prince Edward) or the Duke of Kent (the other Prince Edward). In addition, there are Stranger Knights and Ladies, covering a good proportion of Europe's monarchs, active or retired. Both the former and current Japanese Emperors are there; Hirohito was thrown out in 1941 for obvious reasons, but reinstated in 1971.

The latter two do not count towards the total.

The current membership gives you an idea of the sort of people who get this honour. For example:

Former Cabinet Secretary Lord Butler of Brockwell, also known for the Butler Inquiry into intelligence used to justify the Iraq War.

Sir John Major and Sir Tony Blair, former Prime Ministers.

Lord King of Lothbury, former Governor of the Bank of England.

Marshal of the Royal Air Force The Lord Stirrup, former Chief of the Defence. Or Jock Stirrup.

Lord Lloyd-Webber. Yes, the musicals guy.

The 7th Marquess of Salisbury, also a former Cabinet minister. Descended from the PM at the time of "Knees of the Gods" and all the way back to William Cecil, chief minister to Elizabeth I; the Cecil family have long been friends with the royals.

There are currently three vacancies.

Until 1946, appointments to the Order were made by the monarch on advice from the government... with all the potential for patronage that would involve. Edward VII threw a major tantrum in 1902-1903 over giving it to Mozaffar ad-Din Shah Qajar, the Shah of Iran, because the guy wasn't a Christian. An alternative design for the badge minus the Cross of St George was drawn up... and Bertie literally threw it out of the porthole of his yacht. He eventually had to back down though.

However, in 1946, Clement Attlee and Winston Churchill, at the time Prime Minister and Leader of the Opposition respectively, agreed that the honour would go back to the monarch. Elizabeth II would make them both Knights of the Garter.

****

So, onto the Silk part. "Kingsmill, Q.C." is a "Queen's Counsel", meaning he is a highly experienced lawyer appointed from the profession. You'd want one of these if you were up on a charge in the Old Bailey.

As a QC, he would have the right to wear a silk gown when in court, hence the nickname of "silks". At the time they were appointed by the monarch on advice from the government; since 2004 a selection panel makes the decision and it's a formality from there on in.

This story is set in 1893 when Queen Victoria was on the throne. When the reigning monarch is male, like at the moment, these people are known as King's Counsel or KC. The changeover is immediate; when Elizabeth II died in 2022, the head of the Bar Council signed off his tribute with "KC", causing some moderate confusion and necessitating a clarification on that matter:

The current Prime Minister, Sir Keir Starmer is a KC by virtue of having made a silk in 2002 as a barrister; he would later head the Crown Prosecution Service. His knighthood is the Order of the Bath. Others may make the jokes.

Sitting MPs who were barristers were made silks automatically until the 1990s; the top law officers of the government get the title as well. This is not necessarily a popular decision with other lawyers, especially if the person has little recent legal experience.

There was a BBC TV series that ran from 2011 to 2014 called Silk about a chamber of lawyers in London; including some QCs. The first season features Natalie Dormer before she joined the cast of Game of Thrones.

****

It is entirely possible to be a Silk Garter i.e. have both honours. There is currently one in fact - Baron Phillips of Worth Matravers, former President of our Supreme Court.

[snamioneasks]

Honi Soit Qui Mal Y Pense by IverinAduelen - M, 52 chapters -Seventh year, slow burn. When Voldemort orders Snape to retrieve a sample of Hermione Granger's brain tissue, the Head Girl must find a way to protect her body - but she may not be able to shield her heart. Partly based on a true story.

[muttball]

Honi soit qui mal y pense!      Dieu et mon droit!

“Shame on anyone who thinks evil of it”.  God and my right

The motto of the  British Royal Order of the Garter and the motto of the monarch of the United Kingdom.

[tuulikki]

“Honi soit qui mal y pense” but it’s a cock ring instead of a garter

[celticcrossanon]

Arms of Queen Camilla

I am putting this up as someone asked in the comments for the symbolism of the shields on the coronation invitation.

from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camilla,_Queen_Consort#/media/File:Coat_of_arms_of_Camilla_Shand,_Queen_consort.svg, image by sodacam

and

https://https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camilla,_Queen_Consort#Titles,_styles,_honours_and_arms

This coat of arms combines the coat of arms of her husband, King Charles III (on the left) and the coat of arms of her father, Major Bruce Shand, on the right. This practise is called impaling and it is a common way of combining two coats of arms.

The Supporters (the animals on either side of the shield) are a gold lion wearing a crown on the left, for England, and a blue boar on the right, taken from the crest of her father's coat of arms. The blue boar has a crown around its neck and a chain, similar to the Unicorn in the same position on the coat of arms of the British monarch.

The Crest (the bit on top) is a Tudor crown, the crown chosen by King Charles III as part of his cypher.

The Garter (the blue band) surrounds the shield as Queen Camilla is a Royal Lady of the Most Noble Order of the Garter. On the blue band is written the motto of the Order of the Garter, Honi Soit Qui Mal Y Pense, meaning "Shame of him who thinks evil of it".

The Coat of Arms itself has two parts:

Left hand Side: The arms of King Charles III, her husband

Right Hand Side: The arms of her father, Major Bruce Shand (see below, under the cut).

In heraldry terms, the coat of arms is described as below:

Escutcheon Quarterly, I and IV Gules, three lions passant guardant in pale Or langued and armed Azure. II Or a lion rampant Gules armed and langued Azure within a double tressure flory-counter-flory Gules. III Azure a harp Or stringed Argent; impaled with a shield of Azure a Boar's Head erased behind the ears Argent armed and langued Or on a Chief engrailed Argent between two Mullets Gules a Cross crosslet fitchy Sable.

Supporters Dexter: a lion rampant guardant Or langued and armed Gules, royally crowned Proper; sinister: a Boar Azure armed and unguled Or langued Gules and gorged with a Coronet composed of crosses formy and fleurs-de-lys attached thereto a Chain reflexed over the back and ending in a ring all Or.

The Coat of Arms appears on the Coronation Invitation as per below:

Coat of Arms of Major Bruce Shand

This is the coat of arms of Major Bruce Shand, awarded to him by Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II in 2005:

The Crest (the bit on top) is a blue boar with red feet, with one foot resting on a red star.

The Shield (the coat of arms itself) appears to be the same as that of the Shand family with the sole exception of a black sword on the top of the shield, between two red stars, whereas the Shand family has three red stars along the top of the shield. The black sword is specific to Major Bruce Shand.

[saintkevorkian]

Honi soit qui mal y pense

[cobragardens]

Mkay each one having a symbol of the other in their halo is already killing me enough, but the double symbolism of the goat heads with inverted stars instead of pentacles? The angel wings like butterflies?? The snake curled to look like the Garter in the British monarch's coat of arms* behind the flaming sword and the implication that makes about the nature of Aziraphale's morality and the owner of his loyalty??? I am unwell. I have taken to my bed, one hand cast limply over my forehead, my corsets unlaced.

*The motto of the Order of the Garter is "Honi soit qui mal y pense," which is Anglo-Norman and means "Shamed be whoever thinks evil of it."

What heart that loves is unholy?

[cleverhottubmiracle]

Get ready to take a wild journey down the rabbit hole of historical unmentionables! We’re about to unveil 50 mind-boggling, jaw-dropping, and downright hilarious underwear stories that’ll leave you wondering if fashion history had a secret naughty side. From scandalous royal undergarments to the unexpected origin stories of our favorite skivvies, prepare to have your underpinnings of knowledge rocked! So, sit back, relax (preferably in your most comfortable undies), and get ready to be schooled in the fascinating, often cheeky, world of historical underthings. The Birth of Modern Corsetry! Minoan Snake Goddess Curious about the earliest signs of modern corsetry? Look no further than the Minoans of ancient Crete during the Bronze Age. Flourishing in a matriarchal society where women held sway while men were off engaged in seafaring trade, Minoan women exhibited remarkable style. Adorned in intricate bell-shaped wool skirts, adorned with jewelry, sporting exotic hairstyles, and donning what seemed to be early versions of corsets. In fact, the famous statue of Minoan Snake Goddess proudly wears a gold corset-style waist cincher and a flounced skirt with resembles a crinoline. When the intrepid seafaring men of Minoa returned from their voyages, they brought back more than just exotic goods – they brought a wave of inspiration that swept through the island’s fashion scene. Laden with luxurious fabrics and novel styling techniques from distant lands, these sailors sparked a sartorial revolution among Minoan women. Their return heralded an era of cosmopolitan glamour, where each new arrival from the sea whispered secrets of distant lands into the eager ears of Minoa’s fashionistas, shaping the island’s chic and setting trends ablaze with each incoming tide. Minoan trading shipsThe Secret Symbolism of the Lady’s Garter The origin of the order of the Garter. Illustration by Raphael Tuck, c 1920 What started as a wardrobe malfunction turned into a royal fashion statement, immortalizing the garter as a symbol of honor and chivalry! The “Order of the Garter” is one of the oldest and most prestigious orders of chivalry in England, dating back to the 14th century. According to legend, during a medieval court ball, the Countess of Salisbury’s garter slipped off her leg while she was dancing near King Edward III. As courtiers snickered at the mishap, the king gallantly picked up the garter and placed it on his own leg, declaring “honi soit qui mal y pense” (shamed be the person who thinks ill of it). A Surprising Reveal: English Ladies and the Missing Underpants!” cartoon by Thomas Rowlandson The ladies’ tumble down a steep staircase reminds us that English ladies did not wear any underpants until the 19th century! The lack of underpants in earlier times led to quite a few blush-inducing moments for English ladies of the past. Picture this: no protective layer to shield them from the unexpected gust of wind or a misstep on uneven terrain. These accidental exposures caused more than a few crimson cheeks, Meanwhile, across the channel, the French were perfecting the art of “les caleçons” (which translates roughly as ‘knickers’) centuries BEFORE the English adopted underpants. In fact, French fashionistas have been flaunting sexy lace lingerie since the 18th century, whereas British gals may still be wearing the ubiquitous Marks & Spencer’s plain cotton undies to infinity and beyond! Unveiling the Can-Can’s Secret: The Scandalous French Open Drawers The Can-Can dance, known for its high kicks and lively energy, originated in the working-class ballrooms of Paris in the early 19th century. It was initially a social dance performed by both men and women. However, it gained notoriety for its risqué and provocative nature, especially when performed by female dancers in cabarets and music halls wearing the French “open drawers”, guaranteeing that the final high kick would deliver quite a titillating view. The Can-Can remained a popular spectacle for decades, and the prospect of risqué undergarments added an extra “ooh-lah-lah” factor to its allure. CAN-CAN DANCERS Bottoms up, Ladies! Accidental exposures may have shaped the famous British Reserve. The great British reserve These accidental exposures caused more than a few crimson cheeks, which may have had a hand in the development of the infamous British reserve. In fact, those breezy and embarrassing mishaps perhaps contributed to the stiff upper lip that is now so closely associated with British. Who knows if underpants (or the lack thereof) played a role in shaping cultural demeanor? Victorian Petticoats Were a Fiery Fashion Disaster! The menace of death caused by the highly flammable six-foot-wide petticoats fueled one of the most vociferous, widely argued, and persistent objections to the garment – vulnerable to the open flames of fireplaces, candles, oil lamps, and matches, the huge crinoline skirts and petticoats frequently caught fire with fatal results. It’s estimated that between 1850 and 1860, approximately 3,000 deaths resulted from crinoline-related fires, as reported by the British medical journal, ‘The Lancet’. Colored lithograph (1860) via The Wellcome Collection.Fashion Mysteries: What Secrets did Queen Joan of Portugal Conceal under her Hoop Skirt in the 15th Century? Ah, the crinoline – not just a fashion statement, but a versatile tool for concealing life’s awkward little surprises! Who needs to be sent away for an inconvenient pregnancy when you can just let your expanding belly blend seamlessly into your wide-skirted ensemble? The crinoline’s voluminous layers were designed not just to fluff up dresses, but to keep society blissfully unaware of impending motherhood. Queen Joan of Portugal The hoop skirt first appeared in women’s fashion during the 15th century when Queen Joan of Portugal wore a circular mechanism, called a farthingale, rumored to disguise her pregnancy in 1468! Why bother with those awkward conversations when you can just swish around in your crinoline fortress, deflecting curious glances and inquiries with every rustle of fabric? Fashion’s Influence on Fairytales: The Brothers Grimm and the Corset Controversy! The Brothers Grimm, famous for their collection of dramatic German fairy tales, decided to add a little twist to the storybook narrative. In their classic tale of Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs, there’s a scene where the wicked stepmother attempts a rather unconventional murder weapon: a corset pulled way too tight. Snow White in a tight corset! In fact, this was in line with the 19th century opinion of German doctors who were vociferously opposed to corsets. They thought those waist-squeezing contraptions were a one-way ticket to organ displacement, restricted breathing, and even some seriously distorted body shapes – nevertheless, those waist-squeezers remained a hot commodity in the fashion scene. So, while the doctors may have had their reservations, it didn’t stop the corset craze from cinching its way into German closets (and fairytales) everywhere! Steel Corsets: Not Just for Tightening Waistlines, but Also Deflecting Daggers Catherine de’Medici During the 15th century, Catherine de’ Medici revolutionized fashion at the French court by introducing extremely tight 13-inch waist corsets – she even banned thick waists from her court! Additionally, she pioneered the use of metal corset covers made of thin steel plate. These steel covers were designed in a basket weave pattern with drilled holes to pass a needle and thread through to attach luxurious velvets and silks. These covers served a practical purpose, providing protection against the prevalent knife attacks of the time. Miracle workers: crinolines sometimes saved lives! Featured in the pages of Frank Leslie’s Weekly, a renowned American illustrated literary and news publication, an extraordinary incident from 1858 recounts the tale of a young woman who, while stepping onto a boat, found herself abruptly slipping into the water. In the midst of battling a powerful current that threatened to sweep her away, fortune smiled upon her due to her attire—a crinoline. Astonishingly, this undergarment turned into an impromptu flotation aid, guiding her safely downstream until a vigilant boatman came to her rescue. Satire on the fashion for crinolines, The British Museum c.1850In another news report, in 1867, a young girl skating in Canada faced a precarious situation when the ice beneath her feet unexpectedly cracked. Yet, her dependable crinoline astonishingly morphed into an unlikely savior, ensuring her dress remained buoyant and her morale stayed high until timely assistance arrived. Hidden in the Hoops: The secret role of Crinolines in the art of smuggling. During the 19th century, crinolines not only shaped women’s fashion but also played a surprising role in smuggling endeavors. These voluminous hoop skirts, known for their expansive and often impractical design, provided an ingenious cover for individuals involved in smuggling goods. Underneath the layers of fabric and wire, creative smugglers found ample space to conceal all kinds of contraband items, from expensive cuts of meat to luxury goods and valuable documents. “Lobster Larceny: A Crinoline Caper”The exaggerated silhouette of crinolines allowed for hidden compartments, making it difficult for authorities to detect the illicit activities. This unconventional use of fashion allowed individuals to bypass strict regulations and border controls, turning crinolines into unexpected accomplices in the world of smuggling. As fashion history intertwines with tales of subterfuge, the crinoline’s role in smuggling adds a unique and intriguing layer to its already captivating narrative. Before reliable birth control: the unspoken reason for wearing unattractive nightwear! In the Victorian era, regardless of class, the preferred nightgown style was long, white, and as modest as a prudish aunt at a tea party. Anything fancier was deemed a sign of improper bedtime behavior. Handmade nightgowns from the Victorian era. Image source: Metropolitan Museum of Art.But perhaps, before the days of reliable birth control, unattractive nightwear wasn’t just a style choice – it was a clever strategy rooted in an unspoken goal: limiting the quantity of intimate relations that could lead to a bun in the oven. Victorian parents with a crying baby These ugly sleepwear choices provided a shield of coverage. So, while it might seem like women were sporting less appealing sleepwear back then, they were actually masterfully navigating a world where bedtime was a landmine. The original purpose of underwear: to protect the outer clothes from the wearer’s unwashed body! Imagine a time when people rarely bathed, laundry day was an ordeal, and outer clothes were handmade, often with elaborate embroidery and hand tatted lace. In these bygone days, undergarments – known as ‘body linen’ – emerged as unsung heroes, protecting precious outer garments from the perils of the unwashed body. They bravely intercepted sweat and odor, preserving the integrity of fashionable attire. Even washing underclothes was no simple task. According to household manuals of the time, the process typically began with an overnight soak before moving on to a series of rigorous steps the following day: soaping, boiling or scalding, thorough rinsing, wringing out, mangling, drying, starching, and ironing, often necessitating repetition to achieve desired cleanliness. Laundry day in the Victorian age It’s worth mentioning that this extensive washing regimen was exclusively for undergarments and household linens such as bedding, towels, and kitchen cloths. Due to the harshness of the laundering process, most outer clothing was typically cleaned through brushing rather than washing. The popularity of silk underwear originally stemmed from the belief that silk was less liable to harbor lice! In bygone eras, the popularity of silk lingerie was not for its sensual appeal. Believe it or not, historical records reveal a surprising function of silk undergarments: they were thought to be a robust defense against the uninvited companionship of lice! While it might sound like an odd and amusing notion today, there was some logic behind this belief. Silk’s smooth texture was believed to be less hospitable to lice, making it a preferred choice for those aiming to avoid these unwanted guests. This unique twist in the history of undergarments adds a layer of intrigue to the evolution of lingerie, showcasing how functionality and fashion often intertwined in fascinating ways. The peculiar legal reason behind the unpopularity of woolen underwear! In the quirky annals of fashion history, the realm of undergarments presents us with an unexpected tale of woolen woes and legal mandates. In the days of yore, undergarments crafted from wool were the norm – and one imagines a degree of itchiness and discomfort that accompanied this choice. However, wool underwear was often finely knitted and may have been quite snuggly! Burial in wool affidavitNonetheless, an unfortunate stigma attached itself to wool – a backlash from the infamous “Burial in Woolens Act” of 1678, a legislation designed to boost the British wool trade. This peculiar law mandated that people be buried in woolen shrouds to support the local wool industry. This law unwittingly left its mark on fashion history. This wooly burial requirement was repealed in 1814, however, woolen undergarments did not return to its former heights of popularity until the end of the century. Off with their heads – or at least their corsets! Following the French Revolution, a wave of anti-aristocratic sentiment swept through fashion, prompting women to shed their corsets and discard heavy, rigid dresses in favor of draped, lightweight muslin cotton garments reminiscent of classic Greek styles. Embracing a more natural silhouette, they adopted the practice of wearing pink stockings and slips underneath to create the illusion of being naked. Some even dampened their dresses for a transparent, wet T-shirt effect. However, this trend proved short-lived, as the thin fabric was ill-suited for colder European climates. By the early 19th century, women began covering up once again, with the resurgence of the whalebone corset by 1830. 18th Century wet t-shirt contest! Leg fashions for Men with skinny legs – when faced with short pants, calf pads became all the rage! Men have had their fair share of creative enhancement throughout history! In the dapper days of the 1700s and 1800s, the male pursuit of shapely legs took a rather innovative turn – the rise of artificial calves. Just as women embraced corsets, petticoats, and other magical fashion tricks, men strutted around with these cunning contraptions snugly strapped to their lower limbs. These faux calves weren’t just for the sake of a good leg day; muscular legs were a symbol of virility and prestige. Imagine the Victorian-era gentlemen showcasing their sculpted calves, the pads adding an extra oomph to their swagger. So, while padded fashion has often been associated with women’s wear, let’s give a round of applause to the gents who dared to play the fashion game with style and flair, even if it meant donning a pair of cheeky artificial calves. Regal Rumps: Queen Victoria’s Oversized Underwear Fetches a Royal Sum! It seems Queen Victoria’s knickers were quite the royal flush at auction, fetching a whopping £12,090 ($16,000) by an anonymous collector! With a waistband measuring 45 inches, those knickers could probably double as a sail for a small boat. Who knew that under all those layers of regal attire, Her Majesty was sporting some roomy undergarments fit for a queen-sized comfort? We’re certain the late queen would be blushing royally if she knew about this! Queen Victoria’s royal insignia embroidered on her knickers. Children in Corsets: A Victorian Prescription for Proper Posture. Yes, believe it or not, children were not exempt from the corset craze of yesteryears! While the notion of corsets for children might raise eyebrows today, for the Victorians, it was considered a matter of health rather than fashion. In an era where maintaining warmth and proper posture were deemed essential for well-being, corsets were considered a practical garment even for the young ones. Believed to provide warmth to the body and support to maintain an upright posture, corsets were seen as pillars of health in Victorian society. While modern sensibilities may view such practices skeptically, it underscores the vastly different perspectives on health and fashion that prevailed in the past. Read on…for MORE Astonishing Underwear Stories from History You Probably Never Knew! “Bloomers” were named after Amelia Jenks Bloomer, an American suffragette! Amelia Jenks Bloomer, a 19th-century American women’s rights advocate and suffragette, is famously associated with her namesake “bloomers,” a revolutionary style of clothing that challenged traditional Victorian dress norms. Inspired by the desire for greater comfort and mobility, as well as the emerging women’s rights movement, Amelia Bloomer advocated for a change in women’s fashion to promote practicality and freedom of movement. Amelia Jenks Bloomer in her eponymous ‘bloomers’. The “bloomers” consisted of a loose-fitting knee-length dress worn over a pair of loose trousers gathered at the ankles, which allowed women to engage in physical activities and pursue an independent lifestyle. Though the bloomers faced public controversy and criticism, Amelia Bloomer’s efforts contributed to the ongoing evolution of women’s fashion and the broader fight for women’s rights. Barbie Pink Underwear – in the 18th Century! The advent of chemical dyes in 1860 introduced the vibrant ‘magenta,’ dubbed the ‘queen of colors,’ ushering in a new era of fashion. Emerging as a trendsetter in the 18th century, pink was seen in everything from opulent gowns to daring undergarments, raising eyebrows and breaking convention. The vibrant color shocked elders, who predicted the downfall of civilization, but pink persisted as a symbol of beauty and luxury. Barbie pink corset from the Victoria & Albert Museum Stepping into the Ladies’ Boudoir: The Industrial Revolution’s Fashionable Entrance! The evolution of crinolines traces a fascinating journey through fashion history, progressing from the early horsehair versions to the sturdier steel designs, and ultimately culminating in the lightweight and innovative cage crinoline. Each iteration represented a significant advancement in structure and support, reflecting the changing tastes and needs of women’s fashion during that era. And when cage crinolines strutted onto the scene, it was as if engineering and fashion had a whirlwind romance. As steel frames replaced horsehair, it was like upgrading from a heavy and cumbersome garment to a lightweight, high-tech marvel. The Fortunes and Misfortunes of the Crinoline Cage Crinolines: Sheffield’s Steel Industry’s Weekly Wire Extravaganza! Factory workers making crinolines. Ah, the cage crinoline of the 19th century – a real social equalizer. This fascinating contraption united people from all walks of life, from the aristocrats to the factory-floor workers. The popularity was so insane that Sheffield factories were cranking out enough crinoline wire to wrap around the Earth…okay, maybe not that much, but by 1859 they were producing enough wire for half a million of these fashion wonders every week! Gentlemen Lost in a Land of Giants! But hey, let’s not forget, not everyone was applauding this trend. Shop workers wearing crinolines faced a significant backlash as their voluminous skirts obstructed aisles and posed safety hazards, leading to accidents and damage to merchandise. Employers often enforced strict rules against wearing crinolines to work, opting for more practical and streamlined attire to ensure efficiency and safety in the workplace. And you can’t blame the gentlemen for feeling a bit miffed – they must have been wondering if they had entered a land of giants because, let’s be honest, where’s a guy supposed to fit when the ladies have transformed into towering fashion colossi? Dressed to kill! How the many layers of Victorian underwear (inadvertently) protected ladies from arsenic poisoning! In Victorian England, arsenic wasn’t just a danger lurking in the shadows—it was a key player in the world of fashion. ‘Thanks’ to the Industrial Revolution’s innovations, arsenic became the go-to for creating eye-popping dyes, like the infamous “Scheele’s Green” and later the lighter toned “Paris Green” invented by Swedish chemist Carl Wilhelm Scheele. Because these hues were very cheap to produce, they found their way into everything from gowns to wallpaper, paints, toys, confectionary, and even beauty products. However, a silent peril lurked: with some garments packing up to a staggering 900 grams of arsenic, the line between fashion and fatal toxicity was alarmingly thin, reminding us that sometimes, style came at a deadly cost. A Skeleton Gentleman Invites a Lady to Dance: A Humorous Depiction of the Arsenic-laced Clothing TrendHowever, the inadvertent benefit of the many layers of Victorian ladies’ underwear was avoiding prolonged contact with arsenic-infused fabric. This was largely due to the sheer number of undergarments required during that era, including pantalettes, bloomers, corsets, petticoats, and crinolines. With each layer acting as a barrier, women had added protection against direct contact with poisonous dye, unintentionally safeguarding their health amidst the fashion trends of the time. Romantic Sailors Carved the Corset Busk as a Token of Affection! The busk, a long paddle-shaped piece, served as a stabilizing force down the center front of corsets and were often carved by sailors on their long sea voyages. They were crafted from an array of materials like wood, ivory, and bone. Interestingly, because of their intimate nature and proximity the heart and breasts, these doubled as sentimental tokens given from men to their lovers, inscribed with heartfelt messages or love poems that could be worn in secrecy. Scrimshaw busk showing whaling ships sailing into port. Charles Whipple Greene Museum, Smithsonian Institute’s whalebone busk with a love poem on the back. Snug as a Bug: The Cozy Charm of Union Suits! Ah, the ubiquitous union suit, a men’s underwear staple for years – but it was originally designed for the ladies! Affectionately known as the “emancipation suit,” it was championed by pioneering women advocating for dress reform. While the typical image of the onesie might conjure thoughts of red flannel, complete with a cheeky bum flap favored by rugged lumberjacks or mustachioed gentlemen, and immortalized in cowboy movies, it’s fascinating to note that this garment once played a significant role in the women’s rights and dress reform movements of the 19th century. Revolution on Two Wheels: How the Bicycle Ushered in an Era of Snug-Fitting Underwear! For centuries, fashion was a battleground of restriction, but beneath the surface simmered a yearning for freedom. Then, like a breath of fresh air, the bicycle arrived, offering not just movement but change. As women embraced this newfound freedom, they needed snugger underwear for activities like biking and tennis. The closer they pedaled to freedom, the smaller their undergarments became! The bicycle propelled women into an era of empowerment, where clothing choices were driven by progress, not societal norms. The origins of ‘Athleisure’! Doctor Jaeger introduced his groundbreaking ‘sanitary woolen system.’ based on his belief that wearing wool against the skin was necessary to absorb perspiration. “But surely a gentlewoman does not perform any activity that would produce such an unpleasant result!” complained someone writing to a lady’s magazine. It’s fascinating how Dr. Jaeger’s vision from over a century ago continues to resonate in contemporary fashion.Dr. Jaeger’s emphasis on utilizing wool for its breathability and moisture-wicking properties was quite ahead of its time. Industrial knitting machines became the unsung heroes of hygiene in fashion, cranking out Dr. Jaeger’s woolly wonders with efficiency and flair – and laid the groundwork for what we now recognize as the athleisure trend, where clothing seamlessly transitions from athletic activities to everyday wear. By promoting garments that supported an active lifestyle while prioritizing hygiene, Dr. Jaeger essentially anticipated the modern fusion of performance and leisurewear. The Famous Bikini Girls of Ancient Greece! The “bikini girls” of ancient Greece, found in the Tomb of the Diver frescoes, depict women sporting two-piece garments remarkably similar to modern bikinis. Dating back to the 5th century BC, these playful artworks offer a charming glimpse into ancient Greek leisure and fashion. But the ancient Greek “bikini girls” weren’t just beach babes. A lesser-known fun fact is that their depictions weren’t just about showcasing physical beauty; they also represented athletic prowess and the celebration of the female form in sports. These depictions highlight the significance of athleticism and physical fitness in ancient Greek culture, where sports were not only recreational but also integral to education and social life. Bikini Babes vs. Victorian Wallflowers: A Swimwear Saga From the agile grace of ancient Greek bikini-clad athletes to the restrained movements of Victorian women, the contrast in athleticism couldn’t be starker! “Mermaids at Brighton” by William Heath c. 1829 In the Victorian era, the trend for swimming wasn’t just about leisure; it was rooted in the belief in the therapeutic benefits of water. However, like many Victorian pursuits, swimming came with its own set of elaborate customs and rituals. Swimwear of the time was far from simple, consisting of intricate skirted tunics, bloomers, and dark stockings. Victorian bathing machines on the beach. Adding to the spectacle were the infamous “bathing machines,” specialized carriages rolled into the water to preserve modesty and provide privacy for bathers. These contraptions remained in use well into the 19th century, offering a discreet means of entering the water directly instead of wading in. Their design was praised for its ability to maintain modesty while enjoying the pleasures of bathing. This elaborate approach to swimming underscored the Victorian penchant for ceremony and tradition in every aspect of life. Making Waves: Annette Kellerman’s Aussie Swimwear Revolution! In a splash heard ’round the world, Annette Kellerman, the Australian professional swimmer found herself in hot water—quite literally—when she got arrested for daring to sport her scandalously sensible one-piece bathing suit in 1907. While the fashion police were busy worrying about decency, Kellerman was busy making waves in the swimwear scene, proving that sometimes you have to break the rules to make a splash. In an era when women’s bathing attire consisted of cumbersome layers and restrictive garments, Kellerman dared to challenge the status quo. Advocating for freedom of movement and practicality, she championed the one-piece bathing suit as the ideal solution for women eager to enjoy aquatic activities without constraints. Annette Kellerman’s one piece bathing suit revolution! Her eponymous line of swimwear, aptly named “Annette Kellermans,” signaled a seismic shift in women’s fashion, propelling swimwear into the modern age. Crafted with innovation and designed for performance, her swimsuits not only liberated women from the burdensome attire of the past but also empowered them to embrace their athleticism and independence. And in true Aussie spirit, she wasn’t afraid to make waves – both in and out of the water! Two WW1 Battleships Built with Corset Steel! World War I dealt a blow to the corset’s reign, nudging it aside in favor of the bra. As part of the war effort, women were urged to ditch their corsets to free up steel. They complied willingly, sacrificing their 28,000 tons of steel from their shapewear – enough to build two battleships. Who knew corsets could be so patriotic? Bra-volution Begins: The First Patent that Started it All! Socialite Mary Phelps encountered a wardrobe dilemma when her floaty debutante ball gown was ruined by the rigid whalebone corset, which caused unsightly bulges under the sheer fabric. In a stroke of innovation, she improvised a solution by fashioning a makeshift, corset-free undergarment using two handkerchiefs and ribbons. This ingenious creation earned her a patent for the “backless bra” in 1914 – in fact, the American patent office created a brand new category named ‘the brassiere’ – and laid the foundation for her business venture, ‘Caresse Crosby.’ Warner Brothers Corset later acquired her invention for $1500, reaping immense profits from her innovative design over the ensuing decades. Mary Phelps bra patentBikini Blast: A Fashion Explosion! In 1946, French fashion took a daring leap as Jacques Heim unveiled the “Atome” (French for “atom”) 2-piece swimsuit, intended to stir the same shockwaves as the recent atomic bombings in Japan. Just two days later, rival designer Louis Réard upped the ante with an even skimpier creation—the “bikini.” With a wink to nuclear testing on the Bikini Atoll Islands, Réard succeeded in igniting a fashion own explosion. His design, featuring a daring newspaper print, signaled a radical departure in swimwear style. The first ‘bikini’The provocative naming choices of the “Atome” and “bikini” swimsuits might not be met with the same enthusiasm today. While they certainly made a splash in their time, their association with atomic imagery and nuclear testing raises eyebrows in contemporary contexts. The Sexy Revolution: Frederick’s of Hollywood Redefining Underwear Before the 1940s, women’s underwear was all about shaping the body. But then along came Frederick’s of Hollywood, shaking up the scene with a whole new vibe. It wasn’t for comfort or function – it was all about oozing sex appeal, designed to appeal to men, bored housewives, and exotic dancers alike! Vibrating Bra In March 1971, at the 20th International Show of Inventions in Brussels, one particularly curious product caught the eye: the “vibrating brassiere.” This contraption featured two spiraling metal bands linked to a small electric motor worn discreetly on the back. According to its creator, the device promised to strengthen and develop the bust with its innovative design. Struck by Fashion: The Shocking Truth About Underwire Bras and Lightning Fact or urban legend? In 1999 two friends tragically met their end in Hyde Park, London, struck by lightning allegedly conducted through the wire in their bras. The incident sparked debates over the safety of underwire bras during thunderstorms, with unconfirmed reports suggesting the metal components may have attracted the fatal discharge. The question lingers. Triumph’s Fishbowl Bra Keeps You Cool in Summer Swiss lingerie maker, Triumph, introduced its innovative “Super Cool Bra” at a grand reveal in Tokyo on May 9, 2012. Inspired by a miniature fishbowl, this unique bra incorporates gel material in its cups, aimed at extracting excess body heat to keep wearers feeling refreshed, especially during the sweltering summer months. The lingerie maker envisions women enjoying a cooler and more comfortable experience with this cutting-edge design – presumably, it went to market without the fish! Source: REUTERSJockey’s Cellophane Wedding & Hitler‘s Surprise Reaction Before 1934, men were limited to either boxer shorts or union suits (you know, the full-length ones with the infamous “back door” flap). But all that changed with the invention of the supportive knit Jockey brief. However, there was a small problem: decency laws of the time prohibited live models from just wearing underwear. So, in a stroke of marketing genius, the company came up with the idea of dressing their models in cellophane to showcase their innovative new product. Jockey’s advertising campaign – the ‘Cellophane Wedding” In 1938, they went all out at the National Association of Retail Clothiers and Furnishers convention, decking everyone out in full cellophane glory. The stunt made headlines, even catching the attention of Adolf Hitler, who used it as an excuse to rant about America’s supposed moral decline. Talk about making an impression! Nylon Stockings for Donkeys, Horses and Camels Animal loving Mrs. F.K. Hosall from England sparked a charitable sensation in February 1926. Her ingenious plan? To gather old silk stockings from generous women and ship them off to northern Africa. But these stockings weren’t destined for glamorous legs; they were intended as a quirky solution to protect donkeys, mules, and camels from pesky fly bites! If you ever find yourself in the company of a well-dressed camel, perhaps you’ll catch a glimpse of those silk-clad legs and think of Mrs. Hosall’s legacy. Mouse-shocking Pantyhose In a peculiar showcase of innovation at the Annual Congress of the Inventors of America in Los Angeles in September 1941, a rather electrifying invention stole the spotlight: women’s pantyhose designed to fend off mice! Dubbed the “shocking stockings,” these unconventional garments boasted a unique construction of fine-spun copper mesh, with hidden batteries nestled within the wearer’s shoes. Intriguingly, wires snaked through the stockings to a coil concealed in the girdle, ready to deliver a zap of voltage upon contact with a mouse. Despite the shocking premise, the inventor assured that these electrifying stocking posed no harm to the wearer – but they never appear to have gone into commercial production. Burning the Bra – Unraveling the Myth Last, but not least in the world of underwear stories, the legend of bra-burning feminists in the 1960s has more twists than a pretzel! Turns out, the fiery protest never actually happened. It was all the brainchild of Lindsy Van Gelder, a reporter with a knack for storytelling. Covering a feminist rally against the 1968 Miss America pageant, she spun a tale of women tossing bras into a “freedom trash can” alongside girdles, high heels, makeup, and Playboy magazines – all symbols of female oppression. But as Van Gelder later lamented, she inadvertently sparked a myth that stuck to her like a stubborn bra strap saying that she shuddered to think that her epitaph will be ‘she invented burning the bra’. The myth of Bra-burning feminist! 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