#Green Wool and Cashmere Jersey

[freshthoughts2020]

[chicinsilk]

Jardin des Modes septembre 1958

Guy Laroche Haute Couture Collection Fall/Winter 1958-59. Ensemble in soft green tones in Fournier wool and Véron printed jersey. Details, the sharpness of the belt placed high on the soft skirt which brings out even more the old charm of the cashmere designs of the crew-neck blouse.

Guy Laroche Collection Haute Couture Automne/Hiver 1958-59. Ensemble aux teintes vertes tendres en lainage de Fournier et jersey imprimé de Véron. Détails, la netteté de la ceinture haut placée sur la jupe souple qui fait ressortir mieux encore la charme ancien des dessins cachemire de la blouse ras du cou.

Photo Marc Hispard

[lamaisongaga]

FASHION CREDITS: LADY GAGA BY ETHAN JAMES GREEN FOR VOGUE US OCTOBER ISSUE

I was highly expecting for Lady Gaga to land a Vogue cover and here we are, covering the October issue of the American Vogue. The photoshoot, which is highly inspired by her role as Harley Quinn in "Joker: Folie à Deux", was lensed by Ethan James Green.

Styling: Alex Harrington, makeup: Sarah Tanno-Stewart, hair: Frederic Aspiras, nails: Kim Truong using Glitterbels, tailors: Hailey Desjardins and Egle Paulauskaite, set design: Marla Weinhoff.

Photographed during her stay in Paris in July this year, the cover photo showcases Gaga in the blue embroidered trompe-l’œil synthetic hair coat made in collaboration with hairstylist Gary Gill from Balenciaga‘s 53rd Fall/Winter 2024 Haute Couture collection!

An iconic silhouette by now, Gaga rocks a pair of her favorite Marc Jacobs Fall/Winter 2016 Kiki buckled black leather platform boots!

The mixture of couture, high-end designers and emerging talent is immense in this editorial as Gaga wears the grunge-inspired Hodakova Fall/Winter 2024 argyle double knit sweater in this hauntingly beautiful shot.

Hyperventilating is an UNDERSTATEMENT. I fell in love the moment John Galliano sent out his girls down the dramatic runway and ever since I was hoping to catch Gaga in one of the designs. Never would‘ve thought she‘d even get a whole custom look!

Gaga poses in custom Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 Artisanal Haute Couture.

White cotton caisetted cape cut with the memory of an ulster coat, worn over a patinaed knitted silk bodysuit matching Gaga’s skin tone underpinned by a corset covered in jersey and a silicone hip prothèse.

A taped reverse swatching hat in white foam and caisetted cotton, patinaed knitted silk stockings and gloves, and custom Christian Louboutin for Margiela white patent leather criss-cross platform pumps with torn stocking overlay.

One thing you should know about Gaga is that she loves to layer multiple runway pieces to merge a whole new look.

From Dior‘s Resort 2025 collection, a love letter to Scotland, she wore a knitted argyle sweater with cut-outs, a tartan wool maxi dress which she layered underneath a mesh and metallic lace dress, and some argyle socks.

The Hodakova sweater makes a return, this time accessorized with an antique hand-painted plaque, ruby and diamond in 18kt gold brooch, and a smoky quartz and pearl in 18k gold brooch, both from Tony Duquette!

A shoe that changed herstory. Vivienne Westwood‘s infamous Fall/Winter 1993 Super Elevated Gillie platform shoes make a return, acquired from Pechuga Vintage. You might remember Gaga wearing a boot version of these for her 2010 Elle spread!

A firework of excitement ransacked my body when I first found out that Alessandro Michele would depart from Gucci to head over to Valentino as the new creative director.

LG is, to my knowledge, the first celebrity to rock a piece from the Resort 2025 "Avant Les Debuts" (Before the Beginning) collection – a pale-yellow chiffon mini dress with high collar, tiered ruffle puff sleeves and floral micro-element embroidery all over!

Paired with custom Maison Margiela distressed stockings and custom Christian Louboutin platform heels.

Gaga is working it in a bi-colored statuesque coat seen on Yohji Yamamoto‘s Fall/Winter 2024 "A Seamless Parable on Cubism" runway.

Rather than canvas and paint, Yamamoto’s medium is fabric and more than ever, it felt like he let his instinctual side take the wheel. Case in point: He said he couldn’t talk about how he’d arrived at these silhouettes. "During fittings, I can change, I can touch", he said with finality.

The look was crowned with a custom Vivienne Bow hat made of voluminous moiré fabric by emerging designer Andrew James!

One of the "Antwerp Six" designers, Dries Van Noten bid farewell earlier this Summer and decided to leave the fashion scene with a bang by celebrating his legacy at his final Spring/Summer 2025 collection where this epic embroidered cashmere coat is from.

Both her Tah ornamental black double-faced wooly cashmere hat with engraved metal accents ($2,700)...

...and Duras double-breasted boxy oversized coat rendered in bonded viscose with peaked lapel ($6,750) are from The Row's Resort 2025 lookbook.

Gaga is the first ever person to wear this vintage Givenchy by Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 1999 "Execution of Lady Jane Grey" Haute Couture chinoiserie embroidered silk balloon sleeve coat and bespoke black dress, both sourced from LILY et Cie.

In 1999, McQueen was going through, in his own words, "an emotional turmoil" both professionally and personally. But instead of relieving himself, he ventured into his own despair to understand his inner demons more poignantly. This painful journey led Lee to Paul Delaroche’s tragic but beautiful 1833 painting, "The Execution of Lady Jane Grey".

Like a painter to a blank canvas, McQueen filled an empty room with extravagant offerings: romantic silk ensembles with floral embroidery, 16th-century fur-trimmed tunics, luxurious velvet coats, as well as the designer’s signature leather suits, cowl-neck dresses, and even a heightened-for-couture bouffant piece that paid homage to his plaid.

Dialing in on his inspiration, McQueen presented his clothes not on models but on fiber-glass-headed mannequins that emerged from trap doors in batches, as if the audience were in an art gallery rather than a fashion show.

It's almost unrecognizable but Gaga is draping this Chanel Fall/Winter 2024 Haute Couture black silk taffeta opera coat around her torso. This piece, which served as the show's opening number, features a ruffled neck, bejeweled buttons and a voluminous cut.

[punkysdilemma-blog]

THE PERFECT WARDROBE (BY GIORGIO ARMANI)

(an excerpt from L’Etiquette issue 8.)  I love this list from a maestro and one of the last greats of the heroic 1980s fashion generation who still independently owns and operates his marque. 

I like casual and discreet elegance, this is what I look for as a designer.

T-SHIRTS AND POLO SHIRTS

*Cashmere jersey t-shirts. Blue, black, long and short sleeves, CREW NECK!

*Knit polo shirts. More refined than cotton pique polo shirts, they look great under a jacket. Practically indispensable in black and navy. Long or short sleeves.

SHIRTS

*Poplin shirts.  With big collars, wear with a tie or with the collar wide, open. Colors? Blue and white are musts. Cream, light gray and navy are very tempting this season. + AZURE

*Chambray shirt. Go for a real workwear look. 

Extras:

*Heavy twill shirt.

*Black linen shirt. Get over your prejudice against linen. + WHITE AND SKY BLUE

*Collarless shirt.

*Two evening shirts in silk. Black and blue 

SWEATERS AND SWEATSHIRTS

*Several crewneck wool sweaters. Black, navy, beige, ecru — take your pick. Wear over a round collar tee.

*Several v-neck wool sweaters. Same as for crewnecks. 

*Hoodies. Gray Marl, Navy or black. Because there’ll always be those Sunday mornings.

*Crewneck Sweatshirts. Gray Marl, Navy or Black. With Raglan sleeves, of course. 

Extras: 

*Merino wool polo collar sweater. Black or navy.

*Sailor Sweater. You’ll find you need it even between April and July. Easier to wear if you get one without stripes.

Note: Pretty sure this is basically a Guernsey or Matelot. 

SUITS, BLAZERS AND TIES 

*A velvet suit. Velvet is the most elegant fabric. 

*Two plain suits. One navy and one gray, with two or three buttons. Ideally made from Fresco fabric. Cotton is another possibility if you're not afraid of creases. 

*A full Tuxedo. At least one. 

*A navy blazer. Lined or unlined. Super-useful.

*Two silk grenadine ties. Blck and navy. Obviously. 

*Two printed ties. Go crazy!

Extras:

*Beige tropical wool suit. Wear it with a sky blue poplin shirt. 

*Silk knit tie. Cream or pearl gray. Makes a change from black or navy. 

*Unlined suede blazer. 

*A knit blazer. 

SUITS, BLAZERS AND TIES

*Bomber jacket. The summer equivalent of your leather jacket. Black, navy or beige. 

*Waterproof beige trench-coat. For rainy days. Get one thats too big. 

*Technical parka.  Zip it all the way up. And remember that Gore-Tex is always a good idea. 

*Denim jacket. 

Extras:

*Zip suede bomber.

*Nappa leather trench-coat. 

*A military jacket. Vintage preferably. 

*Lightweight windbreaker. Go for the retro sportswear look. 

PANTS AND SHORTS

*Two pairs of regular fit jeans. At two different stages of wear.

*Five-pocket white cotton pants. Indispensable in winter. Downright vital in summer. 

*Five-pocket black cotton pants.

*Beige chinos. Not slim, please.

*Gray fresco pants. Wear them as you'd wear jeans. Suitable for both summer and winter. 

*Navy, Beige or White shorts. Roomy, more fluidity, please!

*Swim shorts. In a technical nylon, perhaps in a bright color. roomy but not long.

Extras:

*Cargo Pants. Olive green, in ripstop fabric if you like. 

UNDERWEAR

As far as the great boxers-or-briefs debate goes, we leave it up to you. But do us all a favour and throw out the invisible socks.

*Several pears of navy and grey socks. Made of mercerised cotton. 

*Several pairs of brightly coloured socks. 

Extras:

*A few pairs of white or off-white ribbed socks. Wool and cotton. 

SHOES

*A pair of loafers. Preferably penny loafers. Black should be your first choice. 

*Black oxfords. For formal wear. 

*Brown derbies. Can be suede, if you like. 

*A pair of white or off white canvas sneakers.

*A pair of white leather sneakers. 

*Technical sneakers. Not just for running. 

Extras: 

*Opera pumps 

*Velvet slippers 

ACCESSORIES

*Cotton baseball cap. Navy or black. 

*Woven belt. In black or navy for versatility. 

*Leather dress belt. Keep it thin, about an inch (2 to 3cm) wide, and wear it with a suit. 

*Metal Sunglasses. Aviator or round styles. 

*Heavy-duty canvas shoulder bag. For workdays. 

*Military kitbag. A travel bag to get you through the weekend. 

Extras:

*A borsalino hat.

*Silk pocket squares. Collect them!

*Scarves. In wool, silk, cotton, for days and night.

*All kind of gloves. 

*Ranger belt. 

*A leather messenger bag.

Be discreet and precise and if you manage that, people will remember your style!

[customknitfactory]

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[unit2-ss24]

The 1970s - part 4

The Designers

Diane Von Furstenberg

In 1969 Diane Von Furstenbergmarried her first husband Prince Egon of Furstenberg, she then launched her own-name fashion label in 1970. "The minute I knew I was about to be Egon's wife, I decided to have a career,” she has said. “I wanted to be someone of my own, and not just a plain little girl who got married beyond her desserts." She achieved her dream in spectacular style, launching her signature wrap dress in 1973. Almost 40 years later and there is still no wardrobe that��s considered complete without one.

The wrap dress was inspired by seeing former President Nixon’s daughter Julie Nixon Eisenhower wearing a wrap blouse with a wrap skirt. Diane Von Furstenburg used this image as her motivation to combine the two into one “wrap” piece.

Zhandra Rhodes

Zhandra Rhodes is an English fashion and textile designer. Her early education in fashion set the foundation for a career in the industry creating textile prints. She has designed garments for Diana, Princess of Wales and numerous celebrities such as rock stars Freddie Mercury and Marc Bolan

Her textile fashion designs were considered outrageous by the traditional British manufacturers, which made it hard to find work. In 1968 Zhandra Rhodes started a business with fashion designer Sylvia Ayton. The two designers opened a boutique called Fulham Road Clothes Shop. The business allowed Rhodes to create her textile designs onto garments designed by Sylvia Ayton. She produced her first collection showing loose, romantic garments.

In 1969, the two designers went their separate ways, with Rhodes establishing her own studio in Paddington in West London. As a freelancer she released her first solo collection. The collection of garments received recognition from both the British and American market. Marit Allen, editor of American Vogue at the time featured pieces of Rhodes’s collection in an issue. Receiving recognition by Marit Allen persuaded high end retailers like Henri Bendel, Fortnum and Mason, Neiman Marcus, and Saks to purchase her collection. In addition, her own lifestyle proved to be as dramatic, glamorous and extrovert as her designs. With her hair a vivid shade of bright green (later changed to pink, and sometimes red or other colours), her face painted with theatrical makeup and audacious art jewellery, she stamped her identity on the international world of fashion.

Roy Halston Frowick

Roy Halston Frowick, best known as Halston, was an iconic clothing designer of the 1970s. His sexy, yet elegant dresses became a staple in American disco wear. He started off by designing hats but it was his dresses that made him famous. They were unique and streamlined. He worked with cashmere, silk and rayon jerseys, double-faced wools, and Ultrasuede. After two decades of dressing the jet-set, Halston was diagnosed with AIDS. He passed away in 1990.

Yves Saint Laurent

Yves Saint Laurent was one of the most famous and influential fashion designer of the 1970s. Drawing inspiration from menswear, foreign cultures, and historical periods, Saint Laurent crafted a new, chic, and modern way of dressing that became synonymous with the sexy and glamorous lifestyle of the decade.

YSL is probably most famous for "Le Smoking" tuxedo jacket, see- through blouses, peasant blouses, bolero jackets, pantsuits and smocks. By feminising the basic shapes of the male wardrobe, YSL set new standards for fashion across the world. He not only adapted the male tuxedo for women, but also safari jackets, pea jackets and flying suits. As well as this he was also one of the first designers to use ethnic minorities as models on the runway.

[fashionstudies-blog]

5 Ways to Dress Classy and Elegant

1. Wear the right fit

For petite women: stick to classic cuts and silhouettes because they make you appear taller and leaner – no mini skirts or shoulder pads!

For curvy women: stay away from too-tight dresses, but wear belts and belted jackets to show off your waist – this helps define your curves without being too over the top.

For plus-sized women: Don long, full skirts and buckle belts to balance your body. Basically, belt them big and wear them big!

2. Choose the right colours

Decide which color family you want to emphasize. Reds and oranges can help you look more vibrant. For a serene look, focus on cooler colors like blues and greens.

Red can be hard to pull off (especially if it clashes with your skin tone). Avoid wearing it with white or black if you don’t want to look like a traffic light! Wear red, but pair it with soft colors like pinks, oranges, purples, and yellows – these colors complement each other.

Neutral colors, like black, white, beige, brown, etc., look good together if they are different shades or textures. Your clothes shouldn’t blend together – you want to stand out.

Shades of gray, black, and navy blue can give off a professional vibe. For something more casual, olive green, light pink, and beige can all work well.

For classy plus-size women, the same rules apply, but be careful because darker colors can make you appear bigger than you actually are. Instead of wearing full brown or black dresses, wear black with muted tans and reds – they’ll brighten you up.

3. Wear the right materials

A good rule of thumb is to avoid shiny or flashy fabrics. Cashmere, wool, velvet, or silk are good safe bets, but you can also pick matte jerseys and cotton.

Make sure the color and style of the dress fit the occasion. For example, wool is a great material for a winter suit because it keeps you warm. Cotton is perfect for a summer shirt because it’s breathable. Likewise, silk has a luxurious feel, making it ideal for evening gowns and dress shirts.

Cheap dresses often use polyester and rayon, which are unbreathable. As with lycra, it’s stretchy and tacky. So, we recommend sticking to natural fibers.

4. Examples of classy outfits

Tops: If you want to dress simple but stylishly, pick a floral print blouse or a crisp button-down shirt. Button-up blouses or those with a tie, silk tops, simple tees, or anything that fits well can make you look cute and put together. Try lace or ruffles to add some femininity.

Bottoms:

A pair of jeans or trousers look great when opting for a classy but casual look.

Below-the-knee A-line or pencil skirts look chic with a blouse or button-down shirt.

Tapered pants look great with a nice blouse or blazer for a formal ensemble, as well as with a tank top or t-shirt for an everyday look.

Ankle pants flatter all body types and are versatile for both work and play.

Dresses: A little black dress is always an effortless option for classy dresses, as is a well-fitting shift or shirt dress. A-line, wrap, and sheath dresses are chic clothing styles that look great at any event.

5. Wear classic accessories

Wristwatches: Looking at your wrist is a much classier way to keep track of time while you’re out in a meeting or on a date.

Handbags: Consider the purpose. For carrying all of your stuff, choose a big satchel or tote. Something more formal? Try a clutch or small handbag.

Sunglasses: A summer must-have! Pick simple, understated designs without too much detail or embellishment. A good pair of cat-eye or tortoise-shell sunglasses looks elegant in natural colors. To spruce up your look, pick a frame in a neutral color like navy or gray.

Jewelry: You don’t have to buy Tiffany & Co. jewelry to look elegant – know what pieces to wear at what times. Go for one statement neckpiece and avoid layering heavy jewelry. For earrings, go for statement earrings or simple silver, pearl, gold, or diamond studs. Don’t be afraid of timeless pieces like rose gold bracelets.

[brandsrepertory]

GG

Julien

Blumarine Draped imitation pearl & mesh halter top ($1,900)

Anne Fontaine Pergame Shirt ($650)

Gucci adidas x Gucci polyester formal jacket (€ 2.200)

Gucci adidas x Gucci fluid drill jacket (€ 2.400)

Louis Vuitton LV MATCH REVERSIBLE BOMBER JACKET

ALEX MILL Garcons linen coat- $147 (Navy)

ALEXANDER WANG Embroidered striped leather bomber jacket - $750

ALEXANDER WANG Embroidered cotton-corduroy tapered pants - $238

   ALEXANDER WANG Draped woven maxi dress - $498 (White)

 EMILIO PUCCI Embellished leather ankle boots- $311

ALEXACHUNG Striped wool-blend scarf -$83

 Pantora Dreamers Scarf- $28.00

 Audrey

Vivienne Westwood Navy Drunken Top ($960)

Anne Fontaine Faustine Ruffle-Trim Button-Down Top ($365)

Dior Black and White Houndstooth Technical Cotton Jacquard (2.600,00 €)

Dior Black Technical Cotton Muslin with Dior Dots Motif (2.300,00 €)

Dior Navy Blue Cashmere and Silk Knit (1.700,00 €)

Gucci Wool jacket Style ‎711468 ZAKHQ 9207  (€ 3.600)

Gucci Dry wool jacket Style ‎731312 ZAK4N 1000  (€ 1.980)

Gucci Tartan jacket with Web label (€ 2.800)

Schiaparelli ANATOMY CARDIGAN JACKET - 6 500 €

Louis Vuitton PEARLY BUTTON BOXY KNIT JACKET

Louis Vuitton STAR PRINT BLAZER

Chanel resort 2022 PULLOVER Cashmere Ecru & Black Ref.  P74123 K10621 NL668 ($4,900)

Chanel resort 2022 BLOUSE Embroidered Glittered Muslin Navy Blue & Multicolor

Ref.  P73976 V65651 NL358 - Price upon request

DEL CORE Embellished envers satin mini dress - $2,395

ALEXACHUNG Pepys cotton-blend moire tapered pants- $252

ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER Pussy-bow embellished cotton-poplin shirt - $328

 Dior Black and White Brushed and Perforated Calfskin (990,00 €)

Gucci Women's GG slingback pump - € 890

   Kiki

 Zoya

RICHARD QUINN Roxy floral-print denim jacket ($359)

And other stories Leather Lace Up Snow Boots ($86.99)

And other stories Plaid Pants ($69.30)

ADAM SELMAN SPORT Jackets - $177 (https://www.yoox.com/us/41940019VH/item?dept=women&siteID=J84DHJLQkR4-.p5ZDDZ6pFv3gq7haM_n.g&utm_source=rakuten&utm_medium=affiliation-rs&utm_campaign=us_1808364&utm_content=10&ranMID=24285&ranEAID=J84DHJLQkR4&ranSiteID=J84DHJLQkR4-.p5ZDDZ6pFv3gq7haM_n.g&tp=11333#cod10=41940019VH&sizeId=6)

 ALEXACHUNG Space-dyed striped wool-blend sweater - $128

ALEXANDER WANG Asymmetric layered ruched jersey and silk-satin crepe mini dress - $403

J BRAND Letty leather biker jacket - $275 (white)

   Max

we11done Off-White Wool Vest ($254)

we11done Pink V-Neck Vest ($187)

we11done Black Jacquard Lounge Pants ($204)

we11done Black Varsity Denim Jacket ($1,110)

we11done Off-White Wool Vest ($247)

we11done Blue Denim Shirt ($270)

we11done Pink Polyester Coat ($730)

we11done Beige Jacquard Sweater ($330)

Vivienne Westwood Plaid-Check Print Oxford Shoes ($652)

Vetements Bleached Cotton-Blend Coat

$2,815

Vetements Code Jersey Shirt Black And Green

$567

Vetements Embellished Baby Alpaca-Blend Cardigan

$1,325

Reese Cooper BRUSHED COTTON CANVAS DOUBLE PLEATED TROUSER IN HERRINGBONE PRINT - €‌370.00

Reese Cooper BRUSHED COTTON CANVAS CARGO BLAZER IN HERRINGBONE PRINT - €‌455.00

Reese Cooper TWO STEPS FORWARD WOOL VARSITY JACKET IN BONE - €‌1,700.00

KSENIA SCHNAIDER Hawaii Oversized Shirt €117 (Yellow)

ADER ERROR Blue Tenit Bomber Jacket

AGNONA Off-White Vest Cardigan - $420

AHLUWALIA

Blue Mata Cardigan - $286

AHLUWALIA

Blue Priya Denim Jacket

AHLUWALIA

Brown Wool Cardigan

AHLUWALIA

Blue Priya Jeans

AMI ALEXANDRE MATTIUSSI

Black Heart Motif Shirt - $389

AMI ALEXANDRE MATTIUSSI

Pink Cigarette Trousers- $338 USD

AMI ALEXANDRE MATTIUSSI

Green Crewneck Sweater

$392 USD

AMI ALEXANDRE MATTIUSSI

Orange Cigarette Trousers- $266 USD

AMIRI

Black Cotton Cardigan- $954 USD

AMIRI

Off-White Cotton Shirt - $494 USD

AMI ALEXANDRE MATTIUSSI

Black Lunch Box Messenger Bag - $472 USD

ARTURO OBEGERO

SSENSE Exclusive Black Afanador Trousers - $464 USD

  Melke Rua Puffer - $960

   ADER ERROR Black & Off-White Woven Messenger Bag

             Georgina

16Arlington Hoku Ostrich-feather Trimmed Crop Top in Black ($535)

we11done Black Polyester Jacket ($495)

Vetements Boomerang zebra-print leather pumps

$508

Schiaparelli SINGLE BREASTED CORSET JACKET (5 100 €)

Burc Akyol NO-FUR EMBROIDERED WAISTCOAT - € 1200,00

  Gucci Women's Interlocking G studs sandal- € 1.090

 Kate

Donna Karan Wool-Blend Printed Trench Coat ($595)

And other stories Fitted Merino Knit Turtleneck in green ($89)

And other stories Horse Crewneck Sweater - $71.40

And other stories Jacquard Cat Motif Sweater ($129)

Brock Collection Qualita jacquard peplum top ($546)

ALEX MILL Linen, Tencel and cotton-blend twill blazer -$108 (brown)

ALEXACHUNG Pippard floral-print cotton-poplin shirt - $145

BOUTIQUE MOSCHINO Pussy-bow floral-print silk-satin blouse - $248

  Otto mom

Louis Vuitton BOUCLÉ WOOL PEPLUM TOP

Romona Keveza Plunging Illusion Mermaid Gown - EUR 6002

 Otto sister

Alix Clarkson Ribbed Cut-Out Midi Dress ($295)

  Pippa sykes

Blumarine Logo-Embellished Cropped Cardigan ($680)

Ashley Williams Red Love You Crystal Clip Earrings ($147)

Alix Phoenix Top ($177)

Vivienne Westwood check-pattern Orb heart crossbody bag ($311)

Rodarte Sequined halterneck crop top ($742) -Party

RICHARD QUINN Rose-print velvet miniskirt  ($266)

And other stories Neck Tie Lace Button-Up Shirt ($99)

And other stories Beaded Cotton Skirt - $89.40

Aje Off-the-shoulder Pleated Organza Top – Ivory ($395)

LOVE MOSCHINO Double-breasted checked wool-blend tweed coat - $390 (Purple)

BOUTIQUE MOSCHINO Frayed checked wool-blend jacket - $398

Bags 

Pertegaz  Signature morado - 1.200,00 €

Pertegaz  Couture S Rojo - 1.250,00 €

nadia chellaoui  CALIPS'OH - $685

[red-riding]

Tolkien Elves Clothing Headcannons

Please read: These are only my headcanons, meaning my ideas and interpretations of what Tolkien's elves would have worn based on the text, my clothing knowledge, and imagination. I am in no way claiming this is how it should be. Also I own none of the photos used in this post. 

Also this is obnoxiously long and wordy, so if you skip to a section that interests you, I won't judge. I may have went ( A lot ) over bored ¯\_(ツ)_/¯. Also I just want to say thank you so much for all the support I got on the post asking if I should do this, I hope it lives up to everyones expectations. 

Sources

Okay so in going on this journey of research, I ran into an issue. What culture or cultures to base the clothes off of. My first thought was to have each elven group take ideas from different human cultures. Which makes sense to an extent.

I feel elves would all dress more similar than different across Tolkien’s universe. My reason for this is all the elves started out in the same place (the awakening) and were all exposed to the same things. I believe their clothing would be strongly influenced by the Valar due to Orome’s influence in the beginning and since elves are immortal this influence would not die out as generations go on (I talk about this in the trends section of this post).

If you look in human societies throughout history, they are often unified culturally, despite being far apart, by a religion and I'm applying this to elves. They would emulate the Valar’s clothing in my mind.

Okay now that I narrowed down that I want to use one culture mostly, what culture to pick? There honestly is no right answer to this I feel, but i'm going with European influence (Which is super general I know) since that is where the concept of elves originates from and Tolkien was English. Elves started making their way into stories and poetry in around the 1500s, so that gives me a general area and date to start forming my headcanon. I'm also going to take quite a lot of liberties and take influence from the Lord of the rings films, and general fantasy aesthetics as well to form these headcanons.

Fabrics

When talking about clothes the first place to start is what they are made of: the fabric. What kind of fabric would the elves use and have available to them. When coming up with this I considered two main things, One how durable the fabric is and two could elves make it.

I think durability would be extremely important to elves. According to the International textile association, the average regularly worn garment will last two to three years. Imagine how short of a time period that is to elves! This is why I believe durability would be extremely important to elves, they want something to last. especially the less wealthy elves because they can not afford constant new clothing.

I am only going to list clothing I think the elves could realistically make, so no polyester, plastic and chemical based fabrics.

Considering these two things I have come up with this list using this website as reference. 

Canvas

Cashmere 

Chenille 

Chiffon 

Cotton

Georgette (Silk variety) 

jersey (Silk and cotton variety) 

Leather and Animal Skins/furs 

Wool (And all its woven variants) 

Muslin 

Lace

Satin 

Silk (And all its differently woven Variants)

Taffeta 

Velvet 

Silhouette 

Note: We are looking at shape/Silhouette in this section, don't mind the colors or fabrics in my reference photos. 

So if you study fashion history and culture at all you know the silhouette is one of the defining things of a culture and era. This brings on the question of what the Silhouette for elves would be. I think elves would share one general silhouette with similarities between the male and female silhouettes but have differences as well. This also applies to elves of different lands. They may have the same general silhouette with slightly different things.  

For Elleths

For the common elleth silhouette I am going to say one thing SLEEVES. This is taking inspiration from both the LOTR movie and 1500s european paintings and fashion. long graceful sleeves is something I think would be an elven stable on formal/evening gowns. I feel there would be different styles of sleeves however the most common would be something like this. However I will say for casual work wear they would yield unhelpful. 

Another thing I feel most elleth dresses would have is a waist seam. This is one thing I strongly dislike about the LOTR movie dress, a majority of the dresses at their base looks like a modern slip dress or a night gown and im not a fan. I understand this was probably a stylistic choice to represent how refined and ellagent the elves were, but to me it just looks like an ill fitted fast fashion nightgown. Here is a link to a good example photo if you want to look. Almost no dresses until the last hundred years lacked a waist seam like this. Some cultures don't have a waist seam in woman clothing but will almost always have a belt like garnet if there is no seam. And I personally think waist seemed gowns, look far more elegant. Plus 1500s european gowns all had waist seams so we are adding a waist seam. 

Now the skirt, I feel it would be simple and more on the flat flowing side. No hoop skirts or bum roles for the elves. I do think in some gowns they may add some under lawyers to add volume and or warmth. 

For Ellons 

I actually really like the LOTR movies interruption of elven male robes for formal situations, Here is an example. I also think similar styles but shorter would be worn by either younger ellons or ellons wanting to branch out in a different style for a formal occasion. Here is an example. 

For General Elves 

I feel something both genders would share in their formal and non formal clothes is the use of capes in very versatile ways. The cape could have a function like keeping one warm, or just be purely for show and drastic flare as one descends from their throne *cough* Thranduil, Feanor *Cough*. Here are some examples: Example 1, Example 2, Example 3. 

Now onto the talk of practical clothing. No matter how graceful elves are they can not wear gowns and robes when training or horse back riding. I imagine simple slacks and tunics would be a common site among elves who do physical activities. What Legolas wears in the lord of the rings, is perfect I feel. Practical and rather similar to what humans wear. Here is the example. 

Colors

I feel the elves would have clothing of all colors overall. depending on a couple things. Elves' clothing colors would be different depending on the environment and what dyes they have available in it. As well as what colors function best in an environment, so a lot of greens.

I don't think elven royals would enforce any laws that limits what colors an elf can wear depending on class like most royals throughout human history have. I do feel that certain elven houses, or elves would take on certain color themes. For example I believe Feanor and his house would wear a whole lot of reds, and blacks. While Finarfin and his house would be wearing more blues, whites and silver.

I think plant based dyes would be the most common among elves, making their clothing fall more on earthy toned down colors, opposed to bright synthetic ones we are used to (See mood board above). I do think some brighter colors could be achieved by dying a garment multiple times or using a rarer material like minerals. However I feel majorly would be as I said earthy and natural.

Embellishments 

I believe elves would dabble in all forms of embellishments on their clothing, I mean they have so much time on their hands so why not? I think embroidery would probably be the most common, Little swirled designs on hems and such. Bead work probably would be reserved for more formal garments, due to it being done with crystals and gems and taking lots of time.

I think what designs elves created would mostly be inspired by nature. Different flowers, birds, and stars being the most common.

I think some elven royals would have robes glistened with sewed on diamonds and jewels, to draw attention to themselves and show status.

Environments 

(Note: The way I arranged this mood board above is by environment. So Beach/tropical first row, Temperate forest middle, and snowy cold place third row.)

I feel the main thing that will be changing between different environments and temperatures is what materials they use. Fur and wool lined cloaks and robes for cold places. Light breathable fabric, decorated with sea shells for tropical beach environments. And cotton and medium warmth clothing for forests. I also feel for hunting clothing elves in forests would wear green, and in snowy areas would wear white furs.

I believe elves would still maintain the same general silhouette in different areas (Go to the Silhouette section for more details) just adding on layers and warmer fabrics in colder places.

Trends

So this section does not get a mood bored because I could not think of what that would be.

Trends are something extremely prevalent throughout human culture, often decided by those in power: Celebrities nowadays and in the past royalty. I don't think elves would have trends like we do, for two main reasons.

Reason one is as I said, trends in the past were decided by royals and oftentimes when a new royal took throne fashions would change in their image. However elven rulers don't die of old age like humans, they live forever. making the constant change of trends not occur with each new ruler because there is not a new ruler often. When there is a new ruler it is most likely extremely tragic because that means the past ruler died, and the next  (Most likely a child of the old ruler ) would probably not want to cause a drastic change in clothing out of respect.

Reason two being age groups. Trends often times change as new age groups move into the prime of their life and old generations die out. However elves are immortal and don't die out. I have no doubt younger elves would dress somewhat differently but there would be no massive clothing changes, In silhouette or fabrics due to the older elves pushing back against it. As well as the elves wanting to continue emulating the Valar.

Everyone who asked to be tagged and I want to show this too: @psychostatic, @deep-space-elf, @bitter-sweet-farmgirl, @tiefliing, @animallover81, @softnessfrommyheart, @xmarchwarden-of-lothlorienx, @hardinginhightowns, @xirinofarvada, @gossip-girl-of-middle-earth, @brannonlasgalen, @most-random-blog-with-stuff, @aduialel, @a-dragon-under-the-stars, @proffyaffle, @estel-means-hope, @eldritch-gilthoniel, @tsuyu-sama, @lady-of-black-roses, @perhaps-iwilltry, @lady-latte, @allinwonderlands , @saviorsong, @entishramblings, @rowandor, @halfwaytheremama, @tran-khuetu​, @tolkien-fantasy​

[tobi-tobi-tobi]

Let us do some Remus clothes headcanons because we love him and we really don’t need this but I’m still going to do it anyway

SO remuS loves his jumpers

Ugly ones, cute ones, cashmere, wool all the colours and oH sO cuTe

He rolls the sleeves up to show his forearms and *woW Sirius liKes thAt sinCe whEn are foReaRms sO hoT*

And then he also is a big fan of the old trouser but aLSO SKINNY RIPPED JEANS Y E S HES COOL AND BADASS AND Y E S

He is a thRifter at heart

When he goes home for the holidays he goes out to charity shops and buys old man shirts and jumpers because they look bOMB on him and he’s blooDy cOOL

Also isnt cute Saturday morning charity shopping with dad just so adoRABLE

Oh also shoEs

Remus loVes shoes

Boots with buckles (maroooon) and chunky heels and dark green dock Martins because he’s gay and adorable

Also on occasion he will steal Sirius’ outfits and Sirius will be like

‘Well fuck’ as remus walks in with ripped black jeans and fishnets with sirius’ leather jacket slung around his shoulders

And Remus just smirks because hE knoWs

And then on other days remus will just be cuddled up on the sofa with a mug of earl grey and a Agatha Christie and tartan pyjama trousers and a big ol t shirt (maybe Sirius’ quidditch jersey) and Sirius will lay his head on his lap and it’s so bloODY cute and James is practically ‘awing’ at them

And also remus loVes socks

He has a whole sock drawer and he has every variety of sock you could ever have.

Tartan, striped polka dots thE loT

And random cute ones like ducks and kittens because he’s like that

oDD SOCKS YES

And we shall leave it at thAt because well why noT

[amitchotrani]

Zenga Fall 2021 Menswear. The striped jacquard wool suit and overcoat and many of the cashmere jersey pieces were in line with the Zegna “Use the Existing” policy of presenting its collections in fabrics made from materials recovered during the manufacturing process, a philosophy that is continuously being expanded in partnership with house suppliers to apply right down to shoe linings. Other items, like a long green coat in quilted suede or oversized sweaters decorated with stitched leather, might have been entirely new to existence yet demanded to be worn into vintage old age. https://www.instagram.com/p/CKHcvKtslQu/?igshid=1mnjfkrbgsko3

[fashionbooksmilano]

Jean Muir : Beyond Fashion

Sinty Stemp,   Foreword by Felicity Green

Antique Collectors' Club, London 2007, 176 pages, ISBN  978-1851496211

euro 29,50

email if you want to buy :booksinprogressmilano@yahoo.it

"The clothes in themselves do not make a statement. The woman makes a statement and the dress helps." Jean Muir.                                                      With the closure of Jean Muir Ltd. in 2007, interest in the life and work of the Iconic British fashion designer has never been greater. Jean Muir (1928-1995), doyenne of dressmaking, is forever associated with the 'little black dress'. Her signature style married a distinctive purity of line with a soft fluidity on the body, to create the sensuous, deceptively simple clothes that became her trademark, epitomised by her work in matte jersey, and in particular her jersey dresses, which brought her legendary status in an internationally-renowned career that spanned four decades. Working with a range of fabrics, which apart from her matte jersey included wools, silks, suedes, leather, and fine cashmere, she was the first designer on the international stage to apply couture quality and craftsmanship in her collections.                                                                        The actress Joanna Lumley, a Jean Muir house model in the '70s, who has worn Muir designs ever since, famously stated that, 'every woman should have a Jean Muir in her wardrobe'. Her designs were constant favourites with artistic, literary, and dramatic personalities drawn to the discreet luxe and timeless femininity of her clothes: Dame Judi Dench, Dame Maggie Smith, Lady Olivier, #CharlotteRampling, #LaurenBacall, #BarbraStreisand, #BridgetRiley, Dame Diana Rigg, whose actress daughter, Rachael Stirling now also wears Muir. This beautifully illustrated book highlights the variety and appeal of a career that covered every aspect of the fashion world, and includes many of Muir's sketches, as well as photography by #NormanParkinson, #DavidBailey, Eric Boman, Barry Lategan, #SarahMoon, #DeborahTurbeville, #HelmutNewton and #ArthurElgort. It has written contributions from Lady Antonia Fraser, Sir Roy Strong, Bridget Riley, #SuzyMenkes, Fashion Editor of The International Herald Tribune, and Alexandra Shulman, Editor-in-Chief of British VOGUE, amongst others. 

09/04/20

orders to:     booksinprogressmilano@yahoo.it

ordini a:        booksinprogressmilano@yahoo.it

twitter:@fashionbooksmi

instagram:         fashionbooksmilano, designbooksmilano      tumblr:                fashionbooksmilano, designbooksmilano

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