#Green Wool and Cashmere Jersey
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Jardin des Modes septembre 1958
Guy Laroche Haute Couture Collection Fall/Winter 1958-59. Ensemble in soft green tones in Fournier wool and Véron printed jersey. Details, the sharpness of the belt placed high on the soft skirt which brings out even more the old charm of the cashmere designs of the crew-neck blouse.
Guy Laroche Collection Haute Couture Automne/Hiver 1958-59. Ensemble aux teintes vertes tendres en lainage de Fournier et jersey imprimé de Véron. Détails, la netteté de la ceinture haut placée sur la jupe souple qui fait ressortir mieux encore la charme ancien des dessins cachemire de la blouse ras du cou.
Photo Marc Hispard
#jardin des modes#septembre 1958#fashion 50s#fall/winter#automne/hiver#haute couture#guy laroche#marc hispard#véron fabric#fournier wool#vintage fashion
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Finishing School: Layering and Color Blocking
Summer sucks. Fall and Spring are on thin fucking ice. If I can't be wearing a sweater, the weather is bullshit.
This is because A: I just...like sweaters
But also B: Playing with color and texture allows you to do so much more with your wardrobe.
For the Old-World International Sophisticate, I wanted something that projected wealth, because I have a cotton jersey knit goddamn dress on and it's not giving sophisticated heiress. The plainness of the dress, though, allows me to really ramp up in either color or texture. I chose to really lean into texture with a 1980s Neiman Marcus cashmere cardigan (obtained secondhand;ebay)
![Tumblr media](https://64.media.tumblr.com/98f55906688762432adf0ea6471376c8/a9f44405338b7936-33/s540x810/8612cdf230414ef1bb8eec1079444f9f46159663.jpg)
So, looking at this dress, I thought, what does it need, in order to feel more polished? It need structure. More expensive clothes, by and large, have more structure. So think a t-shirt versus a dress shirt, a jersey sundress versus a gown, etc. So, in order to get the vibe I want, I need that structure, and this 80s-doing-40s piece is perfect for that.
For the Retro Cutie, I went with a mid-00s Sisley pink wool cardigan (also secondhand from ebay. My sourcing will not be exciting, today or ever ahaha)
![Tumblr media](https://64.media.tumblr.com/015f76f4848d6b3e8c8557de86a82cae/a9f44405338b7936-5d/s540x810/c060a171c04a532913a911a66682d29bf5b9b91a.jpg)
Of a much cheaper make than the NM above, but still decent quality, the large buttons draw the eye in a line down the outfit. The color is why I chose this, though: The teal and pink is a great combination that communicates both cheer and youth.
YOU'RE BEGINNING TO SEE THE VISION NOW, YES?
So let's talk about color! So, I did write a post on this a while ago, but I can't find it--I think this year I'm going to write down my different tags and maybe try to start using SOME of them, at least. I buy clothing in certain color palettes, mostly. I attempt to make sure that these colors are compatible with each other. This allows me to make a bunch of outfits with less clothing, as I am trying to work through and get less but better quality clothing.
The great thing about color blocking is it instantly adds interest to an outfit. So you'll notice in the above picture that the cardigan I'm wearing is brown, but it's more properly called CAMEL, with has a lot of gold tones. These gold tones go with a lot of colors I wear:
![Tumblr media](https://64.media.tumblr.com/6d208983ff28a13e4595873b4c546d82/a9f44405338b7936-46/s540x810/7067a10d0ac055968815245deb49019b36d3e9c2.jpg)
(obviously, palette taken from ElenaAnneRayDesigns) these colors tend to flatter me because I am redheaded and relatively pale with a yellow undertone. But they ALSO play well with each other. And hot pink also goes EXTREMELY well with all of those blues, greens, purples, and golds.
Doing this means that I can add a piece in any of these to my wardrobe and be able to do something with it. You don't need to only buy black and brown (And if you are pale like me, black next to your face may be making you look pallid) in order to have a bunch of your clothes match.
Winter is a great time to start playing with this. Take things out of your closet and rest them next to each other. You're not aiming for anything right now, you're just playing. Look at what looks good together. Let's say you fucking LOVE this shirt that is forest green. Fits you amazing, feels flattering, etc. Just...go to the hardware store and grab a swatch the color of your shirt. Look at it next to other color there to keep in mind, see what looks contrasting and interesting. Take it with you to thrift shops to see if the color you like will look great next to what you're looking at buying!
Color is an underrated way to create interest, and people often think they are completely beyond it. But that's not true! Anyone can learn to combine color--I actually think shape is harder to learn. In very broad generalities, any lighter color will look bigger than something in a smaller color. Again, not a hard rule, and can be overridden with silhouette and shape, but a good beginner's guideline.
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THE PERFECT WARDROBE (BY GIORGIO ARMANI)
(an excerpt from L’Etiquette issue 8.) I love this list from a maestro and one of the last greats of the heroic 1980s fashion generation who still independently owns and operates his marque.
![Tumblr media](https://64.media.tumblr.com/762443e20d787f83abb7748f5b7730e9/12af91f893f3242b-ed/s540x810/9d5fe28942de021c7ce9d64715b8aac0d4391eb8.jpg)
I like casual and discreet elegance, this is what I look for as a designer.
T-SHIRTS AND POLO SHIRTS
*Cashmere jersey t-shirts. Blue, black, long and short sleeves, CREW NECK!
*Knit polo shirts. More refined than cotton pique polo shirts, they look great under a jacket. Practically indispensable in black and navy. Long or short sleeves.
SHIRTS
*Poplin shirts. With big collars, wear with a tie or with the collar wide, open. Colors? Blue and white are musts. Cream, light gray and navy are very tempting this season. + AZURE
*Chambray shirt. Go for a real workwear look.
Extras:
*Heavy twill shirt.
*Black linen shirt. Get over your prejudice against linen. + WHITE AND SKY BLUE
*Collarless shirt.
*Two evening shirts in silk. Black and blue
SWEATERS AND SWEATSHIRTS
*Several crewneck wool sweaters. Black, navy, beige, ecru — take your pick. Wear over a round collar tee.
*Several v-neck wool sweaters. Same as for crewnecks.
*Hoodies. Gray Marl, Navy or black. Because there’ll always be those Sunday mornings.
*Crewneck Sweatshirts. Gray Marl, Navy or Black. With Raglan sleeves, of course.
Extras:
*Merino wool polo collar sweater. Black or navy.
*Sailor Sweater. You’ll find you need it even between April and July. Easier to wear if you get one without stripes.
Note: Pretty sure this is basically a Guernsey or Matelot.
SUITS, BLAZERS AND TIES
*A velvet suit. Velvet is the most elegant fabric.
*Two plain suits. One navy and one gray, with two or three buttons. Ideally made from Fresco fabric. Cotton is another possibility if you're not afraid of creases.
*A full Tuxedo. At least one.
*A navy blazer. Lined or unlined. Super-useful.
*Two silk grenadine ties. Blck and navy. Obviously.
*Two printed ties. Go crazy!
Extras:
*Beige tropical wool suit. Wear it with a sky blue poplin shirt.
*Silk knit tie. Cream or pearl gray. Makes a change from black or navy.
*Unlined suede blazer.
*A knit blazer.
SUITS, BLAZERS AND TIES
*Bomber jacket. The summer equivalent of your leather jacket. Black, navy or beige.
*Waterproof beige trench-coat. For rainy days. Get one thats too big.
*Technical parka. Zip it all the way up. And remember that Gore-Tex is always a good idea.
*Denim jacket.
Extras:
*Zip suede bomber.
*Nappa leather trench-coat.
*A military jacket. Vintage preferably.
*Lightweight windbreaker. Go for the retro sportswear look.
PANTS AND SHORTS
*Two pairs of regular fit jeans. At two different stages of wear.
*Five-pocket white cotton pants. Indispensable in winter. Downright vital in summer.
*Five-pocket black cotton pants.
*Beige chinos. Not slim, please.
*Gray fresco pants. Wear them as you'd wear jeans. Suitable for both summer and winter.
*Navy, Beige or White shorts. Roomy, more fluidity, please!
*Swim shorts. In a technical nylon, perhaps in a bright color. roomy but not long.
Extras:
*Cargo Pants. Olive green, in ripstop fabric if you like.
UNDERWEAR
As far as the great boxers-or-briefs debate goes, we leave it up to you. But do us all a favour and throw out the invisible socks.
*Several pears of navy and grey socks. Made of mercerised cotton.
*Several pairs of brightly coloured socks.
Extras:
*A few pairs of white or off-white ribbed socks. Wool and cotton.
SHOES
*A pair of loafers. Preferably penny loafers. Black should be your first choice.
*Black oxfords. For formal wear.
*Brown derbies. Can be suede, if you like.
*A pair of white or off white canvas sneakers.
*A pair of white leather sneakers.
*Technical sneakers. Not just for running.
Extras:
*Opera pumps
*Velvet slippers
ACCESSORIES
*Cotton baseball cap. Navy or black.
*Woven belt. In black or navy for versatility.
*Leather dress belt. Keep it thin, about an inch (2 to 3cm) wide, and wear it with a suit.
*Metal Sunglasses. Aviator or round styles.
*Heavy-duty canvas shoulder bag. For workdays.
*Military kitbag. A travel bag to get you through the weekend.
Extras:
*A borsalino hat.
*Silk pocket squares. Collect them!
*Scarves. In wool, silk, cotton, for days and night.
*All kind of gloves.
*Ranger belt.
*A leather messenger bag.
Be discreet and precise and if you manage that, people will remember your style!
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The 1970s - part 4
The Designers
Diane Von Furstenberg
In 1969 Diane Von Furstenbergmarried her first husband Prince Egon of Furstenberg, she then launched her own-name fashion label in 1970. "The minute I knew I was about to be Egon's wife, I decided to have a career,” she has said. “I wanted to be someone of my own, and not just a plain little girl who got married beyond her desserts." She achieved her dream in spectacular style, launching her signature wrap dress in 1973. Almost 40 years later and there is still no wardrobe that’s considered complete without one.
The wrap dress was inspired by seeing former President Nixon’s daughter Julie Nixon Eisenhower wearing a wrap blouse with a wrap skirt. Diane Von Furstenburg used this image as her motivation to combine the two into one “wrap” piece.
Zhandra Rhodes
Zhandra Rhodes is an English fashion and textile designer. Her early education in fashion set the foundation for a career in the industry creating textile prints. She has designed garments for Diana, Princess of Wales and numerous celebrities such as rock stars Freddie Mercury and Marc Bolan
Her textile fashion designs were considered outrageous by the traditional British manufacturers, which made it hard to find work. In 1968 Zhandra Rhodes started a business with fashion designer Sylvia Ayton. The two designers opened a boutique called Fulham Road Clothes Shop. The business allowed Rhodes to create her textile designs onto garments designed by Sylvia Ayton. She produced her first collection showing loose, romantic garments.
In 1969, the two designers went their separate ways, with Rhodes establishing her own studio in Paddington in West London. As a freelancer she released her first solo collection. The collection of garments received recognition from both the British and American market. Marit Allen, editor of American Vogue at the time featured pieces of Rhodes’s collection in an issue. Receiving recognition by Marit Allen persuaded high end retailers like Henri Bendel, Fortnum and Mason, Neiman Marcus, and Saks to purchase her collection. In addition, her own lifestyle proved to be as dramatic, glamorous and extrovert as her designs. With her hair a vivid shade of bright green (later changed to pink, and sometimes red or other colours), her face painted with theatrical makeup and audacious art jewellery, she stamped her identity on the international world of fashion.
Roy Halston Frowick
Roy Halston Frowick, best known as Halston, was an iconic clothing designer of the 1970s. His sexy, yet elegant dresses became a staple in American disco wear. He started off by designing hats but it was his dresses that made him famous. They were unique and streamlined. He worked with cashmere, silk and rayon jerseys, double-faced wools, and Ultrasuede. After two decades of dressing the jet-set, Halston was diagnosed with AIDS. He passed away in 1990.
Yves Saint Laurent
Yves Saint Laurent was one of the most famous and influential fashion designer of the 1970s. Drawing inspiration from menswear, foreign cultures, and historical periods, Saint Laurent crafted a new, chic, and modern way of dressing that became synonymous with the sexy and glamorous lifestyle of the decade.
YSL is probably most famous for "Le Smoking" tuxedo jacket, see- through blouses, peasant blouses, bolero jackets, pantsuits and smocks. By feminising the basic shapes of the male wardrobe, YSL set new standards for fashion across the world. He not only adapted the male tuxedo for women, but also safari jackets, pea jackets and flying suits. As well as this he was also one of the first designers to use ethnic minorities as models on the runway.
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5 Ways to Dress Classy and Elegant
1. Wear the right fit
For petite women: stick to classic cuts and silhouettes because they make you appear taller and leaner – no mini skirts or shoulder pads!
For curvy women: stay away from too-tight dresses, but wear belts and belted jackets to show off your waist – this helps define your curves without being too over the top.
For plus-sized women: Don long, full skirts and buckle belts to balance your body. Basically, belt them big and wear them big!
2. Choose the right colours
Decide which color family you want to emphasize. Reds and oranges can help you look more vibrant. For a serene look, focus on cooler colors like blues and greens.
Red can be hard to pull off (especially if it clashes with your skin tone). Avoid wearing it with white or black if you don’t want to look like a traffic light! Wear red, but pair it with soft colors like pinks, oranges, purples, and yellows – these colors complement each other.
Neutral colors, like black, white, beige, brown, etc., look good together if they are different shades or textures. Your clothes shouldn’t blend together – you want to stand out.
Shades of gray, black, and navy blue can give off a professional vibe. For something more casual, olive green, light pink, and beige can all work well.
For classy plus-size women, the same rules apply, but be careful because darker colors can make you appear bigger than you actually are. Instead of wearing full brown or black dresses, wear black with muted tans and reds – they’ll brighten you up.
3. Wear the right materials
A good rule of thumb is to avoid shiny or flashy fabrics. Cashmere, wool, velvet, or silk are good safe bets, but you can also pick matte jerseys and cotton.
Make sure the color and style of the dress fit the occasion. For example, wool is a great material for a winter suit because it keeps you warm. Cotton is perfect for a summer shirt because it’s breathable. Likewise, silk has a luxurious feel, making it ideal for evening gowns and dress shirts.
Cheap dresses often use polyester and rayon, which are unbreathable. As with lycra, it’s stretchy and tacky. So, we recommend sticking to natural fibers.
4. Examples of classy outfits
Tops: If you want to dress simple but stylishly, pick a floral print blouse or a crisp button-down shirt. Button-up blouses or those with a tie, silk tops, simple tees, or anything that fits well can make you look cute and put together. Try lace or ruffles to add some femininity.
Bottoms:
A pair of jeans or trousers look great when opting for a classy but casual look.
Below-the-knee A-line or pencil skirts look chic with a blouse or button-down shirt.
Tapered pants look great with a nice blouse or blazer for a formal ensemble, as well as with a tank top or t-shirt for an everyday look.
Ankle pants flatter all body types and are versatile for both work and play.
Dresses: A little black dress is always an effortless option for classy dresses, as is a well-fitting shift or shirt dress. A-line, wrap, and sheath dresses are chic clothing styles that look great at any event.
5. Wear classic accessories
Wristwatches: Looking at your wrist is a much classier way to keep track of time while you’re out in a meeting or on a date.
Handbags: Consider the purpose. For carrying all of your stuff, choose a big satchel or tote. Something more formal? Try a clutch or small handbag.
Sunglasses: A summer must-have! Pick simple, understated designs without too much detail or embellishment. A good pair of cat-eye or tortoise-shell sunglasses looks elegant in natural colors. To spruce up your look, pick a frame in a neutral color like navy or gray.
Jewelry: You don’t have to buy Tiffany & Co. jewelry to look elegant – know what pieces to wear at what times. Go for one statement neckpiece and avoid layering heavy jewelry. For earrings, go for statement earrings or simple silver, pearl, gold, or diamond studs. Don’t be afraid of timeless pieces like rose gold bracelets.
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Tolkien Elves Clothing Headcannons
Please read: These are only my headcanons, meaning my ideas and interpretations of what Tolkien's elves would have worn based on the text, my clothing knowledge, and imagination. I am in no way claiming this is how it should be. Also I own none of the photos used in this post.
Also this is obnoxiously long and wordy, so if you skip to a section that interests you, I won't judge. I may have went ( A lot ) over bored ¯\_(ツ)_/¯. Also I just want to say thank you so much for all the support I got on the post asking if I should do this, I hope it lives up to everyones expectations.
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Sources
Okay so in going on this journey of research, I ran into an issue. What culture or cultures to base the clothes off of. My first thought was to have each elven group take ideas from different human cultures. Which makes sense to an extent.
I feel elves would all dress more similar than different across Tolkien’s universe. My reason for this is all the elves started out in the same place (the awakening) and were all exposed to the same things. I believe their clothing would be strongly influenced by the Valar due to Orome’s influence in the beginning and since elves are immortal this influence would not die out as generations go on (I talk about this in the trends section of this post).
If you look in human societies throughout history, they are often unified culturally, despite being far apart, by a religion and I'm applying this to elves. They would emulate the Valar’s clothing in my mind.
Okay now that I narrowed down that I want to use one culture mostly, what culture to pick? There honestly is no right answer to this I feel, but i'm going with European influence (Which is super general I know) since that is where the concept of elves originates from and Tolkien was English. Elves started making their way into stories and poetry in around the 1500s, so that gives me a general area and date to start forming my headcanon. I'm also going to take quite a lot of liberties and take influence from the Lord of the rings films, and general fantasy aesthetics as well to form these headcanons.
Fabrics
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When talking about clothes the first place to start is what they are made of: the fabric. What kind of fabric would the elves use and have available to them. When coming up with this I considered two main things, One how durable the fabric is and two could elves make it.
I think durability would be extremely important to elves. According to the International textile association, the average regularly worn garment will last two to three years. Imagine how short of a time period that is to elves! This is why I believe durability would be extremely important to elves, they want something to last. especially the less wealthy elves because they can not afford constant new clothing.
I am only going to list clothing I think the elves could realistically make, so no polyester, plastic and chemical based fabrics.
Considering these two things I have come up with this list using this website as reference.
Canvas
Cashmere
Chenille
Chiffon
Cotton
Georgette (Silk variety)
jersey (Silk and cotton variety)
Leather and Animal Skins/furs
Wool (And all its woven variants)
Muslin
Lace
Satin
Silk (And all its differently woven Variants)
Taffeta
Velvet
Silhouette
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Note: We are looking at shape/Silhouette in this section, don't mind the colors or fabrics in my reference photos.
So if you study fashion history and culture at all you know the silhouette is one of the defining things of a culture and era. This brings on the question of what the Silhouette for elves would be. I think elves would share one general silhouette with similarities between the male and female silhouettes but have differences as well. This also applies to elves of different lands. They may have the same general silhouette with slightly different things.
For Elleths
For the common elleth silhouette I am going to say one thing SLEEVES. This is taking inspiration from both the LOTR movie and 1500s european paintings and fashion. long graceful sleeves is something I think would be an elven stable on formal/evening gowns. I feel there would be different styles of sleeves however the most common would be something like this. However I will say for casual work wear they would yield unhelpful.
Another thing I feel most elleth dresses would have is a waist seam. This is one thing I strongly dislike about the LOTR movie dress, a majority of the dresses at their base looks like a modern slip dress or a night gown and im not a fan. I understand this was probably a stylistic choice to represent how refined and ellagent the elves were, but to me it just looks like an ill fitted fast fashion nightgown. Here is a link to a good example photo if you want to look. Almost no dresses until the last hundred years lacked a waist seam like this. Some cultures don't have a waist seam in woman clothing but will almost always have a belt like garnet if there is no seam. And I personally think waist seemed gowns, look far more elegant. Plus 1500s european gowns all had waist seams so we are adding a waist seam.
Now the skirt, I feel it would be simple and more on the flat flowing side. No hoop skirts or bum roles for the elves. I do think in some gowns they may add some under lawyers to add volume and or warmth.
For Ellons
I actually really like the LOTR movies interruption of elven male robes for formal situations, Here is an example. I also think similar styles but shorter would be worn by either younger ellons or ellons wanting to branch out in a different style for a formal occasion. Here is an example.
For General Elves
I feel something both genders would share in their formal and non formal clothes is the use of capes in very versatile ways. The cape could have a function like keeping one warm, or just be purely for show and drastic flare as one descends from their throne *cough* Thranduil, Feanor *Cough*. Here are some examples: Example 1, Example 2, Example 3.
Now onto the talk of practical clothing. No matter how graceful elves are they can not wear gowns and robes when training or horse back riding. I imagine simple slacks and tunics would be a common site among elves who do physical activities. What Legolas wears in the lord of the rings, is perfect I feel. Practical and rather similar to what humans wear. Here is the example.
Colors
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I feel the elves would have clothing of all colors overall. depending on a couple things. Elves' clothing colors would be different depending on the environment and what dyes they have available in it. As well as what colors function best in an environment, so a lot of greens.
I don't think elven royals would enforce any laws that limits what colors an elf can wear depending on class like most royals throughout human history have. I do feel that certain elven houses, or elves would take on certain color themes. For example I believe Feanor and his house would wear a whole lot of reds, and blacks. While Finarfin and his house would be wearing more blues, whites and silver.
I think plant based dyes would be the most common among elves, making their clothing fall more on earthy toned down colors, opposed to bright synthetic ones we are used to (See mood board above). I do think some brighter colors could be achieved by dying a garment multiple times or using a rarer material like minerals. However I feel majorly would be as I said earthy and natural.
Embellishments
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I believe elves would dabble in all forms of embellishments on their clothing, I mean they have so much time on their hands so why not? I think embroidery would probably be the most common, Little swirled designs on hems and such. Bead work probably would be reserved for more formal garments, due to it being done with crystals and gems and taking lots of time.
I think what designs elves created would mostly be inspired by nature. Different flowers, birds, and stars being the most common.
I think some elven royals would have robes glistened with sewed on diamonds and jewels, to draw attention to themselves and show status.
Environments
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(Note: The way I arranged this mood board above is by environment. So Beach/tropical first row, Temperate forest middle, and snowy cold place third row.)
I feel the main thing that will be changing between different environments and temperatures is what materials they use. Fur and wool lined cloaks and robes for cold places. Light breathable fabric, decorated with sea shells for tropical beach environments. And cotton and medium warmth clothing for forests. I also feel for hunting clothing elves in forests would wear green, and in snowy areas would wear white furs.
I believe elves would still maintain the same general silhouette in different areas (Go to the Silhouette section for more details) just adding on layers and warmer fabrics in colder places.
Trends
So this section does not get a mood bored because I could not think of what that would be.
Trends are something extremely prevalent throughout human culture, often decided by those in power: Celebrities nowadays and in the past royalty. I don't think elves would have trends like we do, for two main reasons.
Reason one is as I said, trends in the past were decided by royals and oftentimes when a new royal took throne fashions would change in their image. However elven rulers don't die of old age like humans, they live forever. making the constant change of trends not occur with each new ruler because there is not a new ruler often. When there is a new ruler it is most likely extremely tragic because that means the past ruler died, and the next (Most likely a child of the old ruler ) would probably not want to cause a drastic change in clothing out of respect.
Reason two being age groups. Trends often times change as new age groups move into the prime of their life and old generations die out. However elves are immortal and don't die out. I have no doubt younger elves would dress somewhat differently but there would be no massive clothing changes, In silhouette or fabrics due to the older elves pushing back against it. As well as the elves wanting to continue emulating the Valar.
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Let us do some Remus clothes headcanons because we love him and we really don’t need this but I’m still going to do it anyway
SO remuS loves his jumpers
Ugly ones, cute ones, cashmere, wool all the colours and oH sO cuTe
He rolls the sleeves up to show his forearms and *woW Sirius liKes thAt sinCe whEn are foReaRms sO hoT*
And then he also is a big fan of the old trouser but aLSO SKINNY RIPPED JEANS Y E S HES COOL AND BADASS AND Y E S
He is a thRifter at heart
When he goes home for the holidays he goes out to charity shops and buys old man shirts and jumpers because they look bOMB on him and he’s blooDy cOOL
Also isnt cute Saturday morning charity shopping with dad just so adoRABLE
Oh also shoEs
Remus loVes shoes
Boots with buckles (maroooon) and chunky heels and dark green dock Martins because he’s gay and adorable
Also on occasion he will steal Sirius’ outfits and Sirius will be like
‘Well fuck’ as remus walks in with ripped black jeans and fishnets with sirius’ leather jacket slung around his shoulders
And Remus just smirks because hE knoWs
And then on other days remus will just be cuddled up on the sofa with a mug of earl grey and a Agatha Christie and tartan pyjama trousers and a big ol t shirt (maybe Sirius’ quidditch jersey) and Sirius will lay his head on his lap and it’s so bloODY cute and James is practically ‘awing’ at them
And also remus loVes socks
He has a whole sock drawer and he has every variety of sock you could ever have.
Tartan, striped polka dots thE loT
And random cute ones like ducks and kittens because he’s like that
oDD SOCKS YES
And we shall leave it at thAt because well why noT
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Zenga Fall 2021 Menswear. The striped jacquard wool suit and overcoat and many of the cashmere jersey pieces were in line with the Zegna “Use the Existing” policy of presenting its collections in fabrics made from materials recovered during the manufacturing process, a philosophy that is continuously being expanded in partnership with house suppliers to apply right down to shoe linings. Other items, like a long green coat in quilted suede or oversized sweaters decorated with stitched leather, might have been entirely new to existence yet demanded to be worn into vintage old age. https://www.instagram.com/p/CKHcvKtslQu/?igshid=1mnjfkrbgsko3
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Wartime
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Wartime WWII put fashion in an unusually practical position, with women forced into factory work after the men had left for the front. Fabric rationing meant less fullness in the skirts and sleeves, and contributed to the slimmer, no- nonsense silhouettes and alternate materials like rayon. The ‘make do and mend’
campaign saw the recycling of garments and contrasting fabrics. With Paris occupied and London under siege, fashion saw a reliance on American designers and ready-to-wear for the first time. The feminine, romantic feeling of the 1930s sobered up to a mature, practical woman with her nipped-in waist, practical knee-length skirts, padded shoulders and long sleeves. 1940s Styles: Practical workwear, austere tailored suits, wrap-around ‘popover’ dress, recycled knits Utilitarian details: Patch pockets, epaulettes, larger buttons platform shoes, spectator shoes, fur stoles, shoulder-strap bags high-rolled hairstyles, snood hair- nets, red lipstick, ‘painted’ stockings Colours: Dark and dusty: utility blue, browns, grab green, beige Fabrics: Wool, cotton, denim, rayon, seersucker, jersey, pinstripes, small scat- tered patterns Designers: Norman Norell, Claire McCardell, Hattie Carnegie, Pierre Balmain, Edith Head, Adrian, Jacques Fath Fashion Influences: Lauren Bacall, Lana Turner, Rita Hayworth, Kathryn Hep- burn, Rosie the Riveter, Carmen Miranda Illustrators: Eric, Alberto Vargas Photographers: Louise Dahl-Wolfe, Lee Miller, Irving Penn Movies: Gilda, Casablanca, It’s a Wonderful Life, Rebecca 1950s The New Look The post-war return to domesticity saw a resurgence in high fashion, and the practical woman became a sophisticated lady in the 1950s. Her retreat to the home saw the return of the proper corseted waist, impractically full skirts, softly rounded shoulders and bracelet-length sleeves. A return to ex- travagant eveningwear and matched ensembles were a requirement for any well-dressed woman, but the Rockabilly and Beatniks also brought a youth- ful influence from the streets. 1950s Styles: Twinsets, pencil skirts, shirtwaist dress, cocktail dress, strapless ball gowns, ‘the little black dress,’ fur coats, stiletto heel, pearl necklaces, clutch purses, matching accessories, chignon hairstyles, gingham dresses, pedal pushers, Converse and Keds sneakers, preppy style Colours: Jewel tones, neutrals Fabrics: Wool tweed, cashmere, satin, taffeta, organza, nylon net, cotton piqué Designers: Christian Dior, Cristobal Balenciaga, Pierre Balmain, Charles James, Norman Hartnell, Hardy Amies, Pauline Trigère, Hubert de Givenchy Fashion Influences: Elizabeth Taylor, Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly, Marilyn Monroe, Sophia Loren, Gina Lollobrigida, Eva Peron, Evelyn Tripp Illustrators: René Gruau, Coby Whitmore, Rene Bouché, Bernard Blossac Photographers: Bill Brandt, Diane Arbus, William Klein, Cecil Beaton Movies: Sabrina, Funny Face, The Seven Year Itch, Rebel Without a Cause, The Wild One, La Dolce Vita, Gentlemen Prefer Blondes, All About Eve, To Catch a Thief, Rear Window The rise of teenage culture and rock and roll during this decade had a last- ing influence on fashion, as did the electronic age and the rise of suburban development, shopping malls, and the domestic use of washing machines. 1960s The Mod The woman who had been maturing over the last 30 years started over again in the 1960s, with a wide-eyed return to youthfulness and a naïve schoolgirl look colourfully influenced by Pop Art and Op Art. The look was unisex, with waistless sack dresses, short haircuts, and sleeveless tops. The mod styles of swinging London’s Carnaby Street and King’s Road reached the world along with The Beatles, The Who, The Rolling Stones, James Bond, and The Avengers in a ‘British Invasion.’ Hemlines shot up to the mini-skirt, showcasing colourful tights and go-go boots, and silver and metallic colours highlighted the inspiration of the Space Age. The free spir- its of the decade saw the freedom of oral contraception and the Women’s Lib movement, and politics met fashion in the Equal Rights Movement, at Woodstock and protests against the Vietnam War.
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