a third-rate mummer who couldn't act for toffee. 2010-14 / 2022-?
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Vogue Italia April 1994
Naomi Campbell by Steven Meisel
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"Evidence of Intimated & Fascist Crimes by USA/ The war on the Black Panther Party 1968-1969."
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Describe yourself… I’m shy and I always wear black. Why do you like Yohji Yamamoto’s clothes? Yohji’s clothes create a mature ambience. I love the sense of cleanliness and purity that comes when people only wear black. -YUKIO NINAGAWA. Theatre Director, 76.
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I love a brand that does one thing really well, and Jan Machenhauer, a longstanding Danish fashion institution, does shirts beautifully. Every year, in white and a few thoughtful colours, they release subtle variations on the classic dress shirt with thoughtful detailing and design, made in India from a crisp cotton poplin.
Machenhauer isn’t a household name outside Denmark, but in the 1980s he was a central figure in Copenhagen fashion—part of the same minimalist wave as Jil Sander, Calvin Klein or Issey Miyake.
When I was last in Denmark, I visited the store and ended up walking out with the Frank, a hybrid dress shirt/work jacket in a cool grey they call “ink.” My partner got the Susan in ash, which felt like something razor sharp Prada might have made in the early-2000s. Both pieces are of a quality and design level you'd pay at least double for at Margaret Howell or Studio Nicholson.
We were helped by the man himself, Jan, who was on the shop floor: unfussy, warm, and still clearly involved. A gem of a brand.
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Swiss stamp from 2023 celebrating concrete
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Alison and Peter Smithson's Upper Lawn house 1962 one of the most perfect houses I can imagine, Arcadian brutalism.
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The Designers Republic (TDR) / Warp Records / Autechre – Envane / Album Cover / 1997
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MUJI has had a rough couple years as far as I can tell, it seemed like they started to overproduce and underdeliver on their core values. I visited the flagship in Tokyo in 2024 and I was incredibly bummed that even their LABO range which was meant to showcase the best of their fabrics and design as a sort of R&D lab had been reduced to sub-Uniqlo flimsy jersey with lots of polyester content.
So I was relieved to see that they had taken on a new creative director last year to right the ship and turn around apparel. Naoki Takizawa is a Japanese design veteran whose career was intertwined with the rise of Issey Miyake and the launch of his very cool plantation line in the early 80s but he worked for him right through to the early 2000's and was the overall designer for the mainline from 1999-2006.
As you would expect from anyone steeped in that world, there's a renewed focus on softly-futuristic silhouettes, that are relaxed wearable and contemporary (my favourite is these oversized lightweight parkas) but maybe more importantly a root level appreciation for quality textiles - especially interesting fibres like Washi cotton blends but also paper like polyester like in this tote bag and maybe most surprisingly at this price point—Loopwheeled jersey, a slow technique that dates to the 19th century where the cotton jersey is knitted in circular tubes. This jersey tends to be incredible soft and spongy because the tension is lower than on modern machines, but because the production time is slower and the machines require more care it tends to be sold at a premium.
I think the most interesting aspect of Takizawa's tenure has been his use of collaborations and hero items to elevate the collections in this case a Rimowa-esque aluminum roller case designed by Naota Fujisawa that retails for £400 in Japan (unfortunately not available in the UK) and the collaborative leather vulcanised trainers developed with CAMPER the Spanish footwear brand known for it's quirky and offbeat designs that hit their peak in the Y2K era. The Muji design takes one of their trademark foot ergonomic sole units (that follows the line of the foot) and somehow makes it elegant with a simple leather wrap design—a tennis shoe reduced to it's bare essence.
All of this has brought me back to the brand, and I hope they can apply this new energy to their homewares to give them the same sense of renewal.
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Studio Ongarato / Western Australian Museum / Signage & Wayfinding / 2020
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THINGS SAVED FROM ELSEWHERE MAY 2025
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Russian emigré architect Serge Chermayeff and his family in Cape Cod circa 1940s. I had never heard of him until recently when I saw some chairs he designed while living in England for Birminghams PEL (Practical Equipment Ltd.) beautiful Cantilever armchairs in the vein of Marcel Breuer or Mart Stam from the 1930s, turns out he had a life very much like that of the fictional protagonist in the Brutalist, in fact like so many post-war emigré's carving a new role in the U.S.A after prominent positions in Europe became untenable. fascinating.
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I love that as time goes on Lady White Co. has transformed from a cool but slightly generic heritage jersey brand to a level of sophistication that feels like The Row or LEMAIRE doing a skateboard brand. Some of these pieces like the belted heavyweight jersey trousers or the cropped hoody are incredible, even things like the panelled long sleeve tee are just so on point. As a guy in his late 30s who is increasingly drawn back to what he wore when he was 15 this is exactly what I want from clothes right now.
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