#Graphite cutting machine
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indotech123 · 2 months ago
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Designed for precision and efficiency, the Graphite Cutting Machine Horizontal Bandsaw by Indotech Group is your ideal solution for cutting graphite materials. Engineered with robust construction, this machine delivers accurate cuts with minimal material wastage. Its advanced horizontal bandsaw technology ensures smooth operations, while its durable components provide longevity in high-performance environments. Ideal for both small-scale and industrial applications, the machine’s user-friendly interface and safety features make it a valuable addition to any workshop.
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chendiaomachinery · 5 months ago
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Achieving Precision Cutting with Graphite Cutting Band Saw Machine
The Graphite Cutting Band Saw Machine has emerged as a pivotal tool in industries where precision and accuracy in material cutting are paramount. Its ability to deliver clean, accurate cuts across a variety of materials, particularly graphite, has made it an indispensable piece of equipment in manufacturing and research facilities. This article delves into the factors that contribute to the precision cutting capabilities of the Graphite Cutting Band Saw Machine and how it can be optimized for various applications.
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The precision of a Graphite Cutting Band Saw Machine is primarily determined by its mechanical design. The saw blade, made of a high-tensile steel band, is guided by precision bearings and rollers that ensure vibration and accurate tracking during the cutting process. The tension in the blade is meticulously calibrated to maintain a straight and true path, which is crucial for achieving the desired cut quality.
Advanced control systems integrated into modern Graphite Cutting Band Saw Machines allow for fine-tuning of the cutting process. Digital readouts and computer-aided controls enable operators to set exact dimensions and make real-time adjustments to the feed rate and blade speed. These systems also facilitate the implementation of automated cutting sequences, further enhancing the precision and repeatability of the cuts.
The support system for the material being cut plays a significant role in the overall precision of the Graphite Cutting Band Saw Machine. Vise systems and work-holding devices are designed to securely grip the material, preventing any movement during the cutting process. The stability provided by these systems ensures that the blade makes contact with the material at the exact point intended, contributing to the accuracy of the cut.
The quality of the blade used in a Graphite Cutting Band Saw Machine is directly related to the precision of the cuts it can make. High-quality blades are made from durable materials and are designed with a specific tooth configuration to optimize cutting performance. Regular maintenance, including blade sharpening and replacement, is essential to maintain the blade's cutting edge and ensure consistent precision over time.
Environmental factors such as temperature and humidity can affect the performance of a Graphite Cutting Band Saw Machine. Fluctuations in temperature can cause the metal components to expand or contract, potentially causing inaccuracies in the cutting process. Controlling the environment in which the machine operates, through temperature regulation and humidity control, can help maintain the precision of the cuts.
The skill and training of the operator play a crucial role in the precision of a Graphite Cutting Band Saw Machine. A well-trained operator understands how to set up the machine, adjust the controls, and execute the cutting process with a high level of accuracy. Training programs that focus on the nuances of operating the machine and understanding its capabilities can significantly improve the precision of the cuts made.
Continuous innovation in cutting technology has led to the development of new features and enhancements for Graphite Cutting Band Saw Machines. Laser guidance systems, for example, can provide operators with a visual aid to ensure the blade is aligned with the intended cutting line. Additionally, advancements in material science have resulted in blades with improved durability and cutting
The precision of a Graphite Cutting Band Saw Machine is a multifaceted attribute that depends on a combination of mechanical design, control systems, material handling, blade quality, environmental conditions, operator skill, and technological innovations. By understanding and optimizing these factors, manufacturers can ensure that their Graphite Cutting Band Saw Machines deliver a high level of precision in their cutting operations, meeting the stringent requirements of various industries and applications.
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vinceaddams · 1 year ago
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Any tips on learning to make buttonholes? I've been putting it off for.... *checks notes* like three years.... but better late than never and all that. I don't have any fancy machines so I gotta do it by hand but that seems right up your alley.
Thanks!
It IS up my alley, yes, I do most of my buttonholes by hand!
I'm actually part way through filming an 18th century buttonhole tutorial, but I expect it'll be a few more weeks before I finish that and put it on the youtubes, so in the meantime here's the very very short version. (The long version is looking like it'll probably be about 40 minutes maybe, judging by how much script I've written compared to my last video?)
Mark your line, a bit longer than your button is wide. I usually use a graphite mechanical pencil on light fabrics, and a light coloured pencil crayon on dark ones. (I have fabric pencils too, but they're much softer and leave a thicker line.) You may want to baste the layers together around all the marked buttonholes if you're working on something big and the layers are shifty and slippery. I'm not basting here because this is just a pants placket.
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Do a little running stitch (or perhaps a running backstitch) in fine thread around the line at the width you want the finished buttonhole to be. This holds the layers of fabric together and acts as a nice little guide for when you do the buttonhole stitches.
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Cut along the marked line using a buttonhole cutter, or a woodworking chisel. Glossy magazines are the best surface to put underneath your work as you push down, and you can give it a little tap with a rubber mallet if it's not going through all the way.
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I'm aware that there are some people who cut their buttonholes open using seam rippers, and if any of them are reading this please know that that is abhorrent behaviour and I need you to stop it immediately. Stop it.
Go get a buttonhole cutter for 10 bucks and your life will be better for it. Or go to the nearest hardware store and get a little woodworking chisel. This includes machine buttonholes, use the buttonhole cutter on them too. If you continue to cut open buttonholes with a seam ripper after reading this you are personally responsible for at least 3 of the grey hairs on my head.
Do a whipstitch around the cut edges, to help prevent fraying while you work and to keep all those threads out of the way. (For my everyday shirts I usually do a machine buttonhole instead of this step, and then just hand stitch over it, because it's a bit faster and a lot sturdier on the thin fabrics.)
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I like to mark out my button locations at this point, because I can mark them through the holes without the buttonhole stitches getting in the way.
For the actual buttonhole stitches it's really nice if you have silk buttonhole twist, but I usually use those little balls of DMC cotton pearl/perle because it's cheap and a good weight. NOT stranded embroidery floss, no separate strands! It's got to be one smooth twisted thing!
Here's a comparison pic between silk buttonhole twist (left) and cotton pearl (right). Both can make nice looking buttonholes, but the silk is a bit nicer to work with and the knots line up more smoothly.
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I've actually only used the silk for one garment ever, but am going to try to do it more often on my nicer things. I find the cotton holds up well enough to daily wear though, despite being not ideal. The buttonholes are never the first part of my garments to wear out.
I cut a piece of about one arm's length more or less, depending on the size of buttonhole. For any hole longer than about 4cm I use 2 threads, one to do each side, because the end gets very frayed and scruffy by the time you've put it through the fabric that many times.
I wax about 2cm of the tip (Not the entire thread. I wax the outlining/overcasting thread but not the buttonhole thread itself.) to make it stick in the fabric better when I start off the thread. I don't tend to tie it, I just do a couple of stabstitches or backstitches and it holds well. (I'm generally very thorough with tying off my threads when it comes to hand sewing, but a buttonhole is basically a long row of knots, so it's pretty sturdy.)
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Put the needle through underneath, with the tip coming up right along that little outline you sewed earlier. And I personally like to take the ends that are already in my hand and wrap them around the tip of the needle like so, but a lot of people loop the other end up around the other way, so here's a link to a buttonhole video with that method. Try both and see which one you prefer, the resulting knot is the same either way.
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Sometimes I can pull the thread from the end near the needle and have the stitch look nice, but often I grab it closer to the base and give it a little wiggle to nestle it into place. This is more necessary with the cotton than it is with the silk.
The knot should be on top of the cut edge of the fabric, not in front of it.
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You can put your stitches further apart than I do if you want, they'll still work if they've got little gaps in between them.
Keep going up that edge and when you get to the end you can either flip immediately to the other side and start back down again, or you can do a bar tack. (You can also fan out the stitches around the end if you want, but I don't like to anymore because I think the rectangular ends look nicer.)
Here's a bar tack vs. no bar tack sample. They just make it look more sharp, and they reinforce the ends.
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For a bar tack do a few long stitches across the entire end.
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And then do buttonhole stitches on top of those long stitches. I also like to snag a tiny bit of the fabric underneath.
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Then stick the needle down into the fabric right where you ended that last stitch on the corner of the bar tack, so you don't pull that corner out of shape, and then just go back to making buttonhole stitches down the other side.
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Then do the second bar tack once you get back to the end.
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To finish off my thread I make it sticky with a bit more beeswax, waxing it as close to the fabric as I can get, and then bring it through to the back and pull it underneath the stitches down one side and trim it off.
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In my experience it stays put perfectly well this way without tying it off.
Voila! An beautiful buttonholes!
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If you want keyhole ones you can clip or punch a little rounded bit at one end of the cut and fan your stitches out around that and only do the bar tack at one end, like I did on my 1830's dressing gown.
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(I won't do that style in my video though, because they're not 18th century.)
Do samples before doing them on a garment! Do as many practice ones as you need to, it takes a while for them to get good! Mine did not look this nice 10 years ago.
Your first one will probably look pretty bad, but your hundredth will be much better!
Edit: Video finished!
youtube
And here's the blog post, which is mostly a slightly longer version of this post.
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troxlerfx · 9 months ago
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hello!! i am troxler (trox if you're nasty) and you might know me from my xwitter @ broadcastrelay or my old experimental art blog @hand-in-hand-again .
this blog is sfw. i have a more reblog-heavy nsfw sideblog, @heartshapedsignal , where i can place aesthetics, rb art that i like, Cronenbergpost & generally toss up more intense horror things & keep this one somewhat more tidy + personal-art-oriented. follow my alt if you please; although it's unlikely i'll ever post anything too explicit, there is nsfw/🔞 potential, so again, heartshapedsignal is 🔞 just to be safe!!
i have a throne account here if you'd like to support my work by helping with supplies & thereby earn my eternal gratitude:
commissions are currently closed & i will update here & on xwitter if that changes!!
i do have discord if you'd like to chat, you can DM me for my username. i'm vision impaired & it's a little easier for me than tumblr DMs (scalable font. properly mapped keyboard that allows me to hit the right keys occasionally. you know 👁️)
i am sometimes slow to respond to messages, but i don't expect you to be available all the time either--i answer things when i have a moment, & i assume others do too ✌️ i have the temperament of a displaced 11th century anchorite, am simply not adapted to the tone & pace of centralized social media.
i also unfortunately cannot voice call or stream/screen share because i am a millennial (just kidding, it's because my phone is almost 9 years old & it overheats when i check my e-mail)
learn a bit more about me under the cut ✂️
i was dropped into this simulation in the early 80s, i'm a disabled artist (vision impaired - [ask me about my atrophied optic nerves] - & have some other physical Issues so i use a cane) & my wife and i host two black cats, roughly 35% of a mannequin, and a whole lot of dolls.
all my art is trad/physical media (haven't figured out a way to make digital art accessible yet. maybe someday!!) i like to sculpt in epoxy, plastilene, polymer & stone clay, i like to mold & cast in resin, make & customize various types of dolls, & build puppets; i do custom framed work, mixed media & textile stuff like sewing & embroidery; i paint in oil, acrylic, watercolor, gouache & water soluble graphite & i love ink, markers, crayons & whatever cheap & weird stuff i can get my hands on.
i have a particular affection for props, prop replicas & hypothetical in-universe items, & i like things that are handsome, durable & believable. i'm versatile & innovative, & i'm at my happiest when i'm exploring technical processes. i have quite a bit of knowledge about techniques & materials. i love a challenge!! currently all my sewing is done by hand, i have trouble controlling pedal-operated machines.
my favorite thing is horror coated in a fine layer of nostalgia & sprinkled with history. that seems highly specific, but you'd be surprised how many things fit the criteria. i tend to fixate on characters & concepts & do a lot of art about it - a habit i developed while i was re-teaching myself to draw after the changes to my eyesight. my output is largely therapeutic. sometimes people like it. maybe you will too!!
a good amount of my work is fanart & will be tagged as such/otherwise linked to the appropriate project, original work will be specified & have its own tag.
at the moment i make a lot of work related to the independent psychological horror unfiction project Welcome Home, created by ' partycoffin ' here on tumblr.
that's all for now!! 👁️‍🗨️📺
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brumeraven · 9 months ago
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🪫: The Chains That Bind || angels, burnout, commoditization, dehumanization, exhaustion, I know that SCRAM is probably a backronym but it's so stupid I love it
"So, uhh..."
Shit, only three days. Knew I shouldn't have picked four in the pool... At least I didn't go with "Never," like Gloria from HR. Bitch should know better; they always, always ask. Might be a day, might be a week, but they always bring it up.
"You ever, uh, think about what exactly we're doing here?"
There it was. The million dollar question. Suppose that number should be revised well-upwards, honestly, power prices being what they were these days, but I couldn't be arsed to keep up with the current budget...
"Like, with that thing in there, ya know?" He gestured vaguely past the consoles before us towards the observation slit, as if there could be any doubt what he meant. Wasn't anything else to talk about around here, least of all the drab beige plastic that comprised every surface.
"Notice you haven't taken a peek yet, rookie. Superstitious much?" I kept my voice light, despite the lance of hot rage that pierced my breast. Close to a decade of experience meant I'd had practice enough at controlling Extrinsics.
"No! Just, I mean..." With a sigh, he stood and leaned forward to look, pressing forward with a near-reverent hesitance. I'd have to keep an eye on that. That spoke of assumptions, and assumptions lead to sloppy work.
I didn't need to look. Already knew what he was staring at.
And if I hadn't, well, it was painted on his face, plain as daylight. 4 solid inches of recycled cathedral glass lessened the intensity to something just-shy of blinding, but compared to the anemic fluorescence of the control room, he might as well have been staring at the sun.
"....hm." It was a disappointed sort of non-committal noise.
"Not what you expected?" Of course it wasn't, not on this side of the shielding. Anyone too sensitive would never have been allowed this close.
"It's...bright?" Disappointment, and the desire for confirmation.
"It's a toroidal cloud of plasma. What the hell did you expect?" Part of the ritual, this was. Debase, demean, lessen. Pinion its wings with the materialistic, the rational, the objective, the familiar.
I knew what he meant, but that part...that part was buried just out sight.
If a few hundred tons of concrete, ten of graphite, and a cell of industrial diamond could be called "just out of sight." Only been down there once; creeped me out when my clothes changed color. Tiny changes, but you never knew what tiny change in your genes would become cancer.
"Yeah, I, uh, can see. I guess I expected-"
"Arms, legs, wings? Some white robes? Maybe a harp or trumpet?" The first bit was true, at least sometimes. Music was a bad idea though. "It's not a person. It's a machine. A thing that was made to do a job. A car, not a yoked horse."
"Aren't you ...afraid though?"
"Afraid? Hell yes I am." That much was no lie. "I'm afraid my coffee is gonna become decaf in between sips, or my bra won't match my shirt, or some other Slip is gonna fuck up my perfectly good day answering your stupid questions." Easy, steady...
Woof. That was a pained look if I'd ever seen one. Fine, he needed more reassurance than that... "Look, of course I worry. Even without hypocertainty effects, there are ten thousand things that could go wrong here. And our job is to make sure they don't, okay?"
"Okay...but-"
"Look, keep your eyes on the gauges and the protocols in mind. Long as shit's all green, s'all good, yeah? Been here 11 years; most of the time when the alarms go off, it's just brumeraven buildup. We wet vent it out through the filters and someone gets a flat tire or something."
He nodded, if not with much conviction. "What's, uh, what's the worst that could happen?"
Fuck, where in the hell did they even find this guy?
Fine, if he wanted it... "Worst case, the Void coefficient inverts and goes positive. We end up with a criticality incursion, have to cut the outflows and you..." I leaned over to prod his arm for emphasis. "...you get to take ice cream and stuffed animals downstairs for it."
Well, that got a nervous giggle and a minute of silence. Probably for the best he thought it a joke for the moment. I waited, then, waited for the question he still hadn't asked, the one I knew was coming.
"But what...what if it breaks loose? What if it gets out?"
Bingo. It wouldn't. It couldn't. "It won't. It can't. Besides, that's my job." I tapped the badge clipped to my shirt, right on the crisp, serifed capital letters: SCRMNT. Safety Containment Responsibility Manager/Neutralization Technician. Corporate did love their acronyms...
"I mean, sure, no offense, but what exactly are you gonna do against that thing in there, if it breaks the control bonds?"
Ahhh, and there it was, the root of the misunderstanding. He still thought this was a prison of concrete and rebar, copper and steel.
"You don't understand. All this concrete and shit? That's all just shielding for our benefit. And for the power converters and all that. It's free to leave; not like we could stop it. But if she goes, whole power grid goes down."
It. Fuck.
"I don't understand. Why...?"
"Please, with all the hospitals and homes and hotels that depend on us?"
"..."
"You want to know how you keep an angel bound?"
The question hung in the air as I felt the hairs on my arm prick, and a fleeting sense of sorrow not my own slunk into my heart.
He nodded, waiting.
I smiled slowly.
"Responsibilities."
~🪫
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a-random-black-and-white-cat · 11 months ago
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fuck you society.
and fuck you people who turned starving artist into a romantic idea, but you cunts just keep taking away my inspiration and feed it to a soul-sucking machine.
I'm hungry, and you think my clawing at a metal piece of shit is filling?
i'm pissed off, and I'm desperate.
i don't want to be starving, but the way i was taught to be an artist was to never be satisfied.
i want to not be hungry.
I want to make art as a job.
To never think i could be as great as those before me, those that are still alive, and even those that will look back and see my sketches and half-assed paintings and think, "Wow. She could have been so great. " Could because only the good artists and the remembered artists get the fate of dying 'Before their time.'
And in a way, i do hope i die before my 60s or 50s because if im lucky, then i won't have to deal with the pain of failing to be great. To even be good.
but im not aloud to just because an artist that can eat has already won.
If i could feed myself off art, i would, but if i tried to right now, all I'd get are paper cuts in my mouth and graphite staining my teeth.
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msnogood · 2 years ago
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Book Ghosts Bookmarks!
Haunt your books with some DIY ghosts. This is so fun to make. It fulfilled my childhood obsession over laminators that only teachers had access to.
Things you need: Hot laminator, laminator sheets, tracing paper or thin wrapping paper, pencil, pencil sharpener, eraser, scissors.
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1) Draw the outline of ghost on tracing paper.
2) Cut out ghost shape.
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3) Draw the ghost face. Ghastly hands are also nice.
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4) Turn over the paper and draw the same design on that side. This is a great time to fix any asymmetry. Skipping this step will make the bookmark one side darker than the other.
5) Input pouch with ghosts in the laminator that’s warmed up. Witness the ghostly transformation as the machine output the heated laminate sheet turning the ghosts even more transparent from the melted glue inside the laminate sheet.
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6) Carefully cut the ghosts out. Leave about 2mm boarder.
7) You have a fraid of book ghosts good enough to haunt your books.
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༼ つ ❍_❍ ༽つ
Tips:
5mil or 7mil has a much smoother finish than 3mil laminate sheets
Always put the fused edge of the laminate sheet in the machine first
Thin paper works better
Use paper towels to shield your fingertips from leaving oily smudges on tracing paper
Sharp pencil helps with drawing details like tiny fingers
Dull pencil helps drawing shading like the soft dark eye circles.
Keep pencil graphite bits off your fingers and working area. They smudge easily on tracing paper.
Only use good quality erasers for the rest of your life. Otherwise, scotch tape with some skills still works better than those pink erasers from heck.
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honeyandhyacinths · 1 year ago
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custom sorority jacket pt. 1: carpenter’s star to be featured on back
note: it’s theoretically possible to use this as a tutorial, hence writing style, but no guarantees of my math or clarity. tutorial disclaimer: read everything before beginning. yardage requirements assume continuous 42" wide.
fabrics: Bliss from Moda, designed by 3 Sisters
project: traditional carpenter’s star in two colors + background
other logistics+supplies: block measures 16” finished, border will eventually added to fit to back of denim jacket. background color: quarter yard exact, third yard safe w/no border, more depending on border. two star colors: quarter yard each. 2.5 inch square ruler with marked 45º, or other small ruler if you're a masochist (masochism directly correlates to ruler disproportion). fabric marking method. sewing machine, thread, yada upon yada.
step 1: cut two 3" strips from each star fabric; subcut sixteen 3" squares of each fabric. cut two 3" strips and one 2.5" strip from background fabric; subcut sixteen 2.5" squares and sixteen 3" squares. save the remaining background fabric for a border.
step 2 (tldr, half square triangles [hst]): hst's are made two-at-a-time; you could theoretically do eight-at-a-time but i haven't done that math. use chalk, air/heat erase pens, or plain old graphite pencil to mark a line diagonally down the wrong side of all sixteen 3" background squares and eight of the lighter star color. match the following, right sides together: eight background + color A, eight background + color B, eight color A+color B. sew a quarter-inch away from the line you marked on both sides. repeat for all matched squares. cut down the line you marked. press toward the more opaque side.
step 3: trim the hst's to 2.5" square. with the aforementioned ruler, this is easy. line up the marked diagonal on the ruler with the diagonal of the hst, trim two sides, flip and repeat. otherwise, use the diagonal on a cutting mat, or just use any other ruler and try to keep the diagonal as centered as possible. non-crisp corners tend to only be noticeable upon close inspection by other quilters.
step 4: lay out the star. all of it, using the 2.5" background squares where appropriate. check it once, check it twice. sew either rows or columns together and press to one side, alternating directions between rows. now we nest seams. instead of matching the ends, match each seam. if pressed correctly, it should be easy to place one seam right on top of the other, and pin along the seam. start in the center and work outwards. nested seams fit much more accurately with each other, while matching the ends of the row may misalign an entire row. this is more visible at a glance. press whichever way is least bulky.
quilt or use block as desired!
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dogsrot · 7 months ago
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𝓕 ❒ :3
𝓕  :  My  muse’s  handwriting.  (Is  it  good,  bad,  difficult  to  decipher,  do  they  prefer  writing  by  hand  or  with  the  help  of  some  form  of  machine,  e.t.c.) 
  ¹  fenrir’s  handwriting  isn’t  bad  per  se,  it’s  definitely  not  neat  but  you  can  easily  decipher  it  if  he  were  to  hand  you  a  note.  now  when  it  comes  to  when  he’s  writing  something  in  a  rush,  it  most  likely  will  end  up  looking  like  chicken  scratch,  and  even  he  will  have  trouble  re  reading  what  he  wrote  because  of  how  sloppy  his  hand  writing  had  gotten.  he  CAN  write  in  cursive  though,  that’s  one  of  the  things  he’s  proud  of  whenever  he  looks  at  his  handwriting.  ²  fenrir  prefers  writing  with  his  hand  instead  of  anything  else,  he  likes  the  feeling  of  his  hand  cramping  after  a  while  because  of  how  hard  he’s  pressing  the  graphite  into  the  piece  of  paper ( he’s a weirdo )
❒  :  My  muse  and  gifts.  (If  they  are  good/bad  at  finding  gifts,  good/bad  at  receiving  gifts,  good/bad  at  wrapping  gifts,  e.t.c.) 
  ¹  when  it  comes  to  finding  gifts,  fenrir  usually  makes  most  of  the  gifts  he  gives  to  people.  he  likes  that  handmade  gift  takes  time  and  he  likes  giving  people  things  that  have  a  lot  of  meaning  rather  than  buying  something  from  a  store  that  so  many  people  have  seen  already  —  that  doesn’t  mean  he  WONT  get  it  if  the  person  he’s  getting  a  gift  for  has  been  staring  at  that  item  for  a�� minute.  ²  as  much  as  he  likes  making  gifts,  he  struggles  with  receiving  gifts  from  others  because  he  doesn’t  believe  he  deserves  them  really.  he  hates  the  thought  of  people  spending  money  on  him,  and  he’ll  try  his  best  to  give  it  back,  but  deep  down  he’s  truly  happy  that  someone  took  the  time  to  get  him  something  that  he  loves.  you  will  literally  see  the  gift  in  his  room  when  he  says  he  doesn’t  want  it,  and  he’ll  swat  your  hand  away  if  you  try  to  take  it  away  from  him.  ³  his  gift  wrapping  is  insanely  sloppy  but  he  does  try  his  best  to  make  it  look  presentable  in  a  way.  it  could  be  the  worse  wrapping  you’ve  ever  seen,  but  he  slapped  a  sticky  bow  on  it  and  he  looks  proud  of  himself  with  all  the  paper  cuts  he  gave  himself  during  it  .  .  so  I  mean,  just  accept  it  !!
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anotherdayforchaosfay · 11 months ago
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Your post had me look up eustachian tube dysfunction and uhhh looks like i have a new thing to ask my ENT about!
Additionally, I've been wondering; whats your favorite method of marking fabric before cutting/sewing? Hope your pain eases up and the soup/tea combo helps!
Eustachian tube dysfunction is common enough, but chronic is fairly new due to covid19. Treatment was horrible and took WEEKS. In severe cases, tubes are surgically implanted. I was this 👌 close to getting surgery for it last year. I'm unable to lay on my right side ever again because of what it does to my ear. Now, congestion is an absolute nightmare, and a humidifier is necessary because dry sinuses hurt like fuck. I wasnon prescription high dose Sudafed with Prednisone for almost three weeks, and it get like my body was made of angry bees. Plus, Prednisone gives me hell-on-earth heartburn. Last summer I had to do a couple rounds of methylprednisilone because my ears more or less closed up. Prepare for suffering, and a doctor who may not believe you because chronic is fairly new.
As for marking, it varies. If there's zero chance of the marks being seen, graphite pencil. Just a number two pencil, slightly dulled so as not to catch the fabric. If the marks will be seen, I use a chalkdust roller pencil thing. It looks like a plastic tube full of chalkdust with a little roll at the bottom. I wipe away thr dust with a damp cloth. I learned from an article that those markers that vanish when the fabric is heated don't actually vanish. They show up if thr fabric gets cold again, like with an ice cube.
Always check to see if thr marks disappear, and do so with scraps of the same fabric. I've dealt with fabrics that hold onto chalk with a death grip, and no amount of washing changes it. Mark and machine stitch, try to wipe away the marks, and see what happens. Not all fabrics are alike.
Tailor's chalk is popular, but I have a hard time gripping it. Likely die to having a ligament removed in my dominant hand. Holding tailor's chalk is awkward for me. I know many who swear by it though.
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demonictreegremlin · 1 year ago
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Compiled Scents
Mustard
Peppermint
Whiskey
Dark Chocolate
Root Beer
Squid Ink Pasta
Wheat
Coffee
Custard
Popcorn
Meatballs
Chocolate Fudge
Chocolate Cake
Barbecue Sauce
Pepper
Carrots
Fresh Fish
Coca-Cola
Tequila
Wine
Bacon
Caviar
Oysters
Chicken Broth
Protein Powder
Ginger
Tea
Vodka
Calamari
Dog Food
Maple Syrup
Licorice
Coconut
Eggnog
Olives
Mud
Wet Forest Floor
Flowing River
Cedarwood
Rusted Iron
Wet Fur
Amber
Forest
Roses
Fresh Blood
Leather
Coal
Mahogany
Cactus
Driftwood
Bones
Salt
Ash
Flint
Shedded Fur
Graphite
Lava
Cattails
Hay
Tar
Obsidian
Charcoal
Gasoline
Vinyl
Engine Exhaust
Satin
Gunpowder
Wet Cement
Velvet
Hot Iron
Frayed Wires
Change
Corks
Cigarettes
Mochi
Pumpkin
Rice
Sushi
Cantaloupe
Gingerbread
Honey
Toffee
Cheese
Gingersnaps
Flour
Filtered Water
Champagne
Molasses
Butter
Tap Water
Breads
Macadamia Nuts
Almonds
Brown Sugar
Rotting Fish
Tuna
Sake
Grapes
Figs
Yogurt
Milk
Hazelnuts
Chestnuts
Banana
Macaroni and Cheese
Peanut Butter
Silver
Earth
Oil
Aluminum
Copper
Clay
Aloe Vera
Fresh Rain
Lilies
Ice
Sand
Glue
Melted Wax
Ironed Laundry
Shoe Shiner
Spray Paint
Rubber
Soap
Wet Plaster
Sparks
Cotton
Instant Film Accord
Fresh Laundry
Burnt Sugar
Lemons
Pina Colada
Bubblegum
Melted Marshmallows
Crème Brûlée
White Chocolate
Sugar
Cinnamon
Whipped Cream
Pineapple
Shortbread Cookies
Maraschino Cherry
Cotton Candy
Lollipops
Papaya
Apricots
Margarita
Peaches
Mint
Candied Orange
Cranberry
Caramel
Raspberry Jam
Key Lime Pie
Frosting
Candied Apple
Meringues
Coconut Pie
Macroons
Sugar Crystals
Honeycomb
Cherry Blossoms
Tulips
Daises
Lavender
Pulveroboletus Ravenelli (a type of sweet-smelling mushroom)
Lip Gloss
Sandalwood
Maple
Citrus of any kind (lemon, orange, grapefruit, lime, etc)
Berries of any kind (strawberries, blackberries, raspberries, blueberries, etc)
Rosemary
Sugar-clove
Moss
Pine
Chocolate
Lemongrass
Cloves
Pomegranate 
Cypress 
Sage
Teakwood
Pecan
Cherry
Rose water
Firewood
Myrrh
Mocha
Machine oil
Red velvet 
Cupcakes/cakes
Pancakes/waffles 
Iron
Shampoos/deodorants
burnt anything
Smoke
Pine Trees
Fireplace
Aftershave
Old Spice
Burning Wood
Apple Pie
New Car Smell
BBQ
Matches
Fresh Money
Patchouli
Seawater
Seaweed
Pears
Pesto
Sautéed Onions
Funnel Cake
Fresh Cut Grass
Ink
Snap Fire Crackers
Wet Dog
Rancid Meat
Blood
Sweaty Feet
Bamboo
Shortbread
Macaroons
Sharpies
Baby Powder
Butterscotch
Mangos
Sautéed Garlic
Marigolds
Lilacs
Vanilla
Soda
Vinegar
Chocolate Covered 
Jasmine
Spearmint
Old Books
Honeysuckle
Eucalyptus
Marijuana
Cinnamon Bun
Apples
Sea Breeze
Magnolia Trees
Thunderstorms
Cherries
S’mores
Cookies Fresh from the Oven
Sky After it Rains
Smell of Baskin Robins
Burnt Rubber
Rotten Eggs
Bleach
Nail Polish Remover
Fresh clean laundry
Wood
Paper (old or new)
Sugarcane
Straw
Rosin 
Cocoa 
Dough 
Oats
Herbs
spices‐ anise, clove, nutmeg, savory paprika cardamom 
Root vegetables 
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chendiaomachinery · 6 months ago
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Precision and Velocity of Graphite Cutting Band Saw Machine Technology
In the realm of industrial manufacturing, precision, and speed are paramount, especially when it comes to cutting materials with unique properties such as graphite. The Graphite Cutting Band Saw Machine, a specialized piece of equipment designed to handle the complexities of cutting graphite and other similar materials, has become an indispensable tool in various industries. This article delves into the intricacies of the Graphite Cutting Band Saw Machine's cutting precision and speed, examining how this technology has evolved to meet the demands of modern industry.
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The Graphite Cutting Band Saw Machine is engineered to provide high levels of precision in its cutting operations. The precision of a Graphite Cutting Band Saw Machine is determined by several factors, including the quality of the blade, the machine's alignment, and the control systems that guide the cutting process. The blades used in these machines are made from high-quality, durable materials that can withstand the abrasive nature of graphite. These blades are designed with a specific tooth configuration that allows for clean, accurate cuts with material displacement.
The alignment of the Graphite Cutting Band Saw Machine is another critical factor in achieving precision. The machine's frame must be rigid and stable to ensure that the blade remains true to its path during the cutting process. This alignment is maintained through regular maintenance and calibration, which ensures that the machine operates with efficiency and accuracy.
The control systems of the Graphite Cutting Band Saw Machine play a vital role in managing the precision of the cuts. Modern machines are equipped with advanced computer numerical control (CNC) systems that allow for precise programming of the cutting path. These systems can be programmed to make complex cuts with a high degree of accuracy, making the Graphite Cutting Band Saw Machine an ideal choice for intricate workpieces.
In addition to precision, the speed at which the Graphite Cutting Band Saw Machine operates is also of great importance. The speed of the blade is a critical parameter that can affect both the quality of the cut and the overall productivity of the machine. The blade speed is carefully calibrated to match the properties of the material being cut. For graphite, which is a relatively soft and brittle material, a lower blade speed is typically used to prevent damage to the material.
The Graphite Cutting Band Saw Machine also features variable speed control, allowing operators to adjust the blade speed according to the specific requirements of the job. This flexibility enables the machine to handle a wide range of materials and cutting tasks, further enhancing its versatility and efficiency.
Moreover, the Graphite Cutting Band Saw Machine is designed with a focus on reducing vibration and noise during operation. These factors can negatively impact the cutting process, leading to inaccuracies and potential damage to the workpiece. By reducing vibration and noise, the machine can operate at higher speeds without compromising the quality of the cut.
The use of cutting fluids in the Graphite Cutting Band Saw Machine is another aspect that contributes to both the precision and speed of the cutting process. These fluids help to cool the blade and lubricate the cut, reducing friction and heat generation. This, in turn, allows for faster cutting speeds and helps to maintain the integrity of the workpiece.
In conclusion, the Graphite Cutting Band Saw Machine is a highly specialized piece of equipment that offers cutting precision and speed. Through the use of high-quality blades, precise machine alignment, advanced control systems, and careful management of blade speed and cutting conditions, these machines can deliver consistent, high-quality results. As industries continue to demand more from their cutting equipment, the Graphite Cutting Band Saw Machine stands as a testament to the ongoing innovation and development in the field of material processing technology.
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al-ghoul · 2 years ago
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Was tagged by @jcbbby Rules: shuffle your ‘on repeat’ playlist and post the first ten tracks, then tag ten people
Well, first of all, I've seen this going around and I still have no idea what "'on repeat' playlist" means. Is it a playlist I'm playing the most? Then those are either just albums, there's no point in shuffling them and/or there are less than 10 tracks in each. Is it just what I've added to my 'favorites'? Not all of it is on repeat! Is it some spotify-specific thing I do not have? Who knows.... XD I'm equal parts confused and amused.
So basically I just went to the "favorites" directory at a place I use the most these days. Some of it may be years old and currently not on repeat at all, whoops! :P
Here goes:
Serj Tankian - Sky Is Over
Entropy Zero, Cliff Lin - War Machine
The Anix - Graphite
Watt White - Eye Of The Storm
Mystic Prophecy - Metal Division
AWOLNATION, Alex Ebert - Mayday!!! Fiesta Fever
The Anix - Cut Me
Blutengel - Tief
Falling In Reverse - Gangsta's Paradise
Skindred - Set Fazers
Tagging @moonlitdark, @leagor-majere, @afab-ulousboi, @herelieslill, @tarot-byte, @bisexualbaibe, @so-easily-forgotten - but none of you have to, I'm just interested who's listening what :)
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ssjjcnc · 12 days ago
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Achieve superior performance and durability in your applications with our cutting-edge CNC Machining Graphite Parts, tailored for precision and efficiency.
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indotech123 · 18 days ago
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angrydame · 20 days ago
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ANGRY DAME
Day 2
First attempt at the wax up process. I'll be honest and say the student project advisors and the lovely people in the fabrication department didn't really give me the advice I needed; with the wax mould ready to be painted with graphite and put into the elctrolyte machine thingy, I have re-thought my whole method now that I have an idea about the equipment. Looks like I'm taking matters into my own hands and getting a little experimental with the recources available to me.
New plan of action:
Buy all the supplies I need, bonus if I can get it in the art shop on campus as I still have store credit I have yet to use. Also, I'll email the fabrication department and ask if I can use some of the more 'hard to come by' supplies.
Make the dental impressions myself and my friends with a two part dental putty. (Note: theres loads of tips online about using silicone for the tiny details, if I can get that then amazing!)
Fill the impression with plaster to make a mould of the teeth.
Hand sculpt the wax onto the mould in thing layers, building the shape of the grillz. I want to switch up the designs and try different patterns for my friends grillz.
attach the sprue wax/wax wire to the grillz, at the back where it the attatchments can't be seen. Attaching the sprue wax in a triangular structure shape, sort of? It doesn't have to be pretty, I just need somewhere to attach the copper wire.
Attach copper wire to the sprue wax.
Paint carefully the grillz and the sprue wax, only painting the areas that I want to be metal.
Pop in the electrolyte machine thingy, I want the copper to be pretty think so I'll ask the fabrication people how that can be done.
Cut the copper wire and around the sprue so I'm left with just the copper grill.
Find a better, non-toxic metal to plate it with. I have a couple ideas, like car-booting and seeing if I can find some silver spoons to be melted down. I'm still looking into other alternative metals that might be cheaper and easier to come by, but you need an alloy like silver or gold.
Have barbershop style headshots to show off the final results, both my grillz and my friends.
Supplies I need from uni:
Plaster for the mould
Wax
Tools for sculping wax
Sprue wax/wax wire/wax line
Ask if they use another metal besides copper
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