#Dianella caerulea

[helluvatimes]

The Australian Native

Dianella caerulea, also known as Blue Flax Lily, blooming well in the Australian Garden section of the conservatory. Photo credit: Jonathan Chua.

This is a hardy plant and a native of eastern Australia and Tasmania.

Taken against shady undergrowth with the exposure biased 2-1/3 stops darker to preserve as much of the highlights as possible.

[bumblebeeappletree]

Costa meets a gardener who has created a haven for frogs and gets his tips for pond design.

Sean is a garden landscaper and his own backyard is a 2.5-hectare block in the Noosa hinterland.

Here he has been able to explore his habitat hobby – building frog ponds. He has more than 50 here already and through his work reckons he has created about 600.

Sean has been creating habitat for wildlife since he was a young boy (he’d already built three by the time he was seven!) and he’s been learning about his current home environment and its flora and fauna for more than 20 years, transforming a barren horse paddock to a diverse paradise. He watches how the animals use the environment, then follows their lead to create better habitat for them.

He observed and followed the natural contours of the land to create water channels, adding mulch-like rocks and logs for extra habitat, and layers of plants, “because frogs exist in all the layers of vegetation, from trees to palms, grasses and groundcovers,” Sean explains. He has counted 17 different species of frog in his backyard.

Sean says that no matter what the type of pond or frog you want to cater for, in most climates you want the pond to receive a reasonable amount of sunlight but not too much. “Full sun will just lead to full on algae growth”

Cane toads don’t like moving through thick grass layers so he plants densely to try to keep these out.

To avoid breeding mosquitoes, Sean recommends installing a pump or waterfall to keep the water moving, but long-term he says you need patience to allow the natural ecosystem to build up, so predators will control their numbers.

Sean also grows lots of fruit and vegetables, keeping his family fed through the year, because he’s keen to show you can have both habitat and healthy food production.

Featured Frogs and Toads:

CANE TOAD - Rhinella marina

CASCADE TREE FROG - Litoria pearsoniana

GREEN TREE FROG - Litoria caerulea

EMERALD-SPOTTED TREE FROG - Litoria peronii

EASTERN SEDGEFROG - Litoria fallax

STRIPED MARSH FROG - Limnodynastes peronii

Featured Plants:

FLAX-LILY - Dianella sp.

CREEK MAT-RUSH - Lomandra hystrix

Filmed on Kabi Kabi Country | Pomona, Qld

[malleedesign]

New Post has been published on https://malleedesign.com.au/portfolio-stanmore-landscape-design/

Portfolio: Stanmore Landscape Design

This small garden in the inner west of Sydney is a sight to behold after the recent rains. It is hard to believe that most of these plants have only been in for 6 months, that is the beauty of gardening with native grasses, they fill out so quickly and provide structure and form in a new garden almost immediately.

This garden is basically unrecognisable from my initial site visit, there were a group of Blueberry Ash dominating much of the space and wreaking havoc with the plumbing.

The entire rear garden was in almost full shade and it was time to to open it up and start again.

The garden is sloped towards the rear lane and some gentle sandstone retaining walls were designed to create a level open space for reading and observation.

A local Eucalyptus species has been planted for Summer shade along with a couple of local Sydney Acacias (Acacia fimbriata and Acacia falcata). The client is an Ecologist with a deep love of the local native flora and fauna and wanted a garden which would supply wildlife with food and habitat in the inner city.

The lower levels of the garden have been given over to dense plantings of shrubs and ground cover species, to provide a safe haven for lizards, frogs and small birds.

In the image above you can see a mixture of Indigofera australis, Pomaderris lanignosa, Westringia ‘Zena’ and the local Pratia species.

The use of plenty of native grasses is very important when try to encourage local wildlife. They also create a soft relaxed feeling in the garden and work extremely well in small gardens with their fine weeping foliage.

However, the standout plant for me in this garden is the Pomaderris lanignosa, I love the large furry leaves and bright rust coloured stems. It makes a great feature shrubs set against the deeper greens and greys in this planting palette.

The recycled paver pathway curves through the small space leading the eye to the rear boundary. The border planting is softening the curves even further as it winds down the small slope.

This garden was lovingly built by Mitch from Ocean Landscapes, thank you!

[wenbochenphoto]

These indigo-coloured berries belong to blue flax-lilly (Dianella caerulea), a perennial occurs in eastern Australia. They are edible, but I am not sure if the taste is good or bad, hard to describe…

[bryonydunnphotography]

Blue Flax Lily (Dianella caerulea) #dianella #flaxlily #flowers #blueflowers #australianflowers #nature #garden #macro #natureisbeautiful #flowerphotography #naturephotography #gardenphotography #macrophotography #ausgeo #etoe_2 #ethereal_softness #ethereal_moods #flowersandmacro #macrogrammers #charming_nature_ #top_macro #topmacros #500px #viewbug #mynikonlife (at Victoria) https://www.instagram.com/p/B0OSF9Npb9m/?igshid=16og964q5dckg

[jelantiahilma]

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Is Blue Flax Lily Any Good? Seven Ways You Can Be Certain | Blue Flax Lily

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from WordPress https://liaflower.com/is-blue-flax-lily-any-good-seven-ways-you-can-be-certain-blue-flax-lily/

[bidscape]

2017 - Top 100 Most Requested Plants

For the second year in a row, here is a list of the most requested plant material in California (organized from most popular to least):

Callistemon citrinus 'Little John' Agave attenuata Lantana x 'New Gold' Senecio mandraliscae Quercus agrifolia Lophostemon confertus (Tristania conferta) Dianella tasmanica 'Variegata' Agave attenuata 'Blue Flame' Muhlenbergia rigens Muhlenbergia capillaris 'Lenca' Rosa 'Iceberg' Trachelospermum jasminoides Aloe striata Chondropetalum tectorum Lomandra longifolia 'Breeze' Stipa tenuissima (Nassella tenuissima) Ligustrum japonicum 'Texanum' Agave 'Blue Glow' Senecio serpens Carex divulsa Agave americana Lantana montevidensis Dietes bicolor Dymondia margaretae Anigozanthos 'Big Red' Hesperaloe parviflora Echeveria 'Afterglow' Asparagus densiflorus 'Myers' Rosmarinus officinalis 'Prostratus' Rosmarinus officinalis 'Huntington Carpet' Baccharis pilularis 'Pigeon Point' Festuca glauca 'Elijah Blue' Carissa macrocarpa ‘Green Carpet’ Hesperaloe parviflora 'Perpa' Heteromeles arbutifolia Salvia leucantha Olea europaea 'Montra' Bougainvillea 'La Jolla' (Shrub) Geijera parviflora Platanus racemosa Ficus pumila (Vine) Salvia greggii 'Furman's Red' Juncus patens Cistus x purpureus Leymus condensatus Rosmarinus officinalis 'Tuscan Blue' Cercidium 'Desert Museum' (Multi) Ficus microcarpa nitida (retusa) Lagerstroemia indica x fauriei 'Muskogee' Platanus racemosa (Standard) Muhlenbergia capillaris Verbena lilacina 'De La Mina' Cercidium x 'Desert Museum' Pistacia chinensis Dianella revoluta 'Little Rev' Sesleria autumnalis Buxus microphylla japonica Phormium x 'Yellow Wave' Ceanothus griseus horizontalis 'Yankee Point' Myoporum parvifolium 'Putah Creek' Rhus integrifolia Russelia equisetiformis Cercis canadensis 'Forest Pansy' Salvia leucantha ‘Santa Barbara’ Prunus caroliniana 'Compacta' Platanus racemosa (Multi) Cercis occidentalis Podocarpus gracilior (Column) Coprosma repens 'Marble Queen' Arbutus 'Marina' Schinus molle Pittosporum tobira 'Wheeler's Dwarf' Arctostaphylos densiflora 'Howard Mcminn' Carex praegracilis Polygala fruticosa 'Petite Butterflies' Aeonium 'Sunburst' Quercus agrifolia (Standard) Dasylirion wheeleri Prunus caroliniana 'Bright 'n Tight' (Column) Pinus eldarica Chamaerops humilis Rhaphiolepis indica 'Ballerina' Pittosporum tenuifolium 'Silver Sheen' Platanus acerifolia 'Columbia' (Standard) Quercus virginiana Citrus limon 'Meyer Improved' Juncus patens 'Elk Blue' Trachelospermum jasminoides (staked) Senecio cylindricus Westringia 'Wynyabbie Gem' Arbutus 'Marina' (Standard) Cercis occidentalis (Multi) Westringia fruticosa 'Morning Light' Lavandula stoechas 'Otto Quast' Dianella caerulea 'Cassa Blue' Acacia redolens 'Desert Carpet' Dodonaea viscosa 'Purpurea' Nandina domestica 'Gulf Stream' Arbutus 'Marina' (Multi) Dietes vegeta (Moraea iridioides)

[plant-mist]

Dianella caerulea Blue Flax- lily

[bumblebeeappletree]

In a garden there are different types of shade - you can make the most of it by clever plant selection. Subscribe 🔔 http://ab.co/GA-subscribe

At the height of summer, plants can soon become stressed in full sun but shade needs to be considered all year round as all plants, to some degree, need light to grow.

Deciduous trees provide seasonal shade - filtered light in summer and more sun in winter. Under the canopy there are also areas that get angled morning and afternoon sun, which can be intense, so you need to choose plants that can tolerate those extremes.

Josh has succulents – Aloe and Pig’s Ear – in this position under his Gleditsia tree and they are tough enough to cope. Other options are Lomandra and Neoregelia Bromeliads, although different varieties have different sun tolerance; if the leaves are bleaching that’s a sure sign a bromeliad is getting too much sun, but Josh’s are doing well so he adds another for colour contrast.

Evergreen Sugar Gums provide dappled light on the eastern side of Josh’s house. They provide year-round dry shade and a number of native grasses thrive in this: lomandra, sword-sedge and dianellas.

A bare patch at the back will be filled with other tried-and-tested species: Correa ‘Bicheno Bells’, Acacia cognata ‘Limelight’ and Dianella ‘Cassa Blue’.

Using small plants means you only need to dig small holes, which minimizes disturbance to the tree roots.

Controllable Shade such as removable shade sails are good for areas near the house where you want summer protection but winter light. Another option is to grow a deciduous tree or vine. Josh has trained a grapevine over his pergola, which provides summer shade, autumn colour, fruit and still allows in winter sun! It can be trimmed to provide exactly the right level of shade to grow a range of productive plants underneath, such as herbs, a makrut lime and blueberry. These will take full sun but thrive in light shade and need less watering in the hotter months.

Featured Plants:

HONEY LOCUST - Gleditsia triacanthos *

ALOE - Aloe ‘Gemini’

PIG’S EAR - Cotyledon orbiculata ‘Silver Waves’ *

SPINY-HEADED MAT-RUSH - Lomandra longifolia cv.

BROMELIAD - Neoregelia cv.

DWARF SUGAR GUM - Eucalyptus cladocalyx ‘Nana’

COASTAL SWORD-SEDGE - Lepidosperma gladiatum

BLACK-ANTHER FLAX-LILY - Dianella revoluta

NATIVE FUCHSIA - Correa pulchella‘Bicheno Bells’

- Acacia cognata ‘Limelight’

BLUE FLAX-LILY - Dianella caerulea ‘Cassa Blue’

GRAPE ‘PERLETTE’ - Vitis vinifera cv.

MAKRUT LIME - Citrus hystrix

* Check before planting: this may be an environmental weed in your area

Filmed on Whadjuk Country | Perth, WA

[malithi-kkb285]

Detailing the Key Concept

What Plants should be Included? considering plants that are shown as being native to Hamilton, and are also included in the free Indigenous plant species that the Brisbane City Council provides

blue flax lily (dianella caerulea) -> attracts birds & lizards; edible blueberries; leaves traditionally used for cord & string; fruit juice can serve as antiseptic for sea ulcers

matrush (lomandra filiformis) -> attracts lizards & frogs; edible base of leaves, flowers & seeds; roots were used as medicine for insect bites

tea tree (leptospermum whitei) -> attracts insects & bees; leaves crushed & inhaled to alleviate colds/coughs; creating tea tree oil (anti-bacterial & anti-fungal)

bottlebrush (callistemon) -> attracts birds & insects; can make tea out of leaves & blossoms

myrtle (melaleuca; backhousia) -> attracts birds & insects; edible flowers, leaves & berries; creating oil (anti-bacterial & anti-fungal)

banksia (banksia) -> attracts birds; edible flowers, leaves & seeds; leaves can make tea; root is anthelmintic

tukeroo (cupaniopsis anacardioides) -> attracts birds, bees & insects; edible fruit & tubers

Implementation Plan

As the Northshore Hamilton area is legally owned by EDQ, it qualifies as Council land, making it an area that is automatically eligible to receive 50 free plants from the Brisbane City Council

EDQ requests plants listed above from Council -> utilises existing plants to grow more

once garden is eventually developed, public access opens, within specified time periods

classes/workshops will be led by willing members of Indigenous communities/people who are well-versed in botany -> free/discounted tickets for site residents; payments generate revenue for EDQ

Sources

Native plant species

Council offers a variety of plants through the Free Native Plants Program, suitable for all garden types and sizes.

BRISBANE.QLD.GOV.AU

PPNN.ORG.AU

Blue Flax Lilly - Dianella caerulea - Care Guide

Dianella caerulea! Commonly known as the blue flax-lily, blueberry lily, or paroo lily, this sub-tropical is native across the eastern state

MELBOURNE BUSHFOOD

'POKULBI' PAROO LILY / BLUE FLAX (Dianella caerulea) 'Bush Tucker Plant Seeds'

A plant which keeps growing from year to year. It forms mats. It grows to 0.75 m high and spreads to 0.4 m across.A hardy perennial native h

EDIBLE OZ

GREEN / CREEK MAT RUSH (Lomandra hystrix) 'Bush Tucker Plant Seeds'

Lomandra hystrix, commonly known as green mat-rush, or creek mat-rush, is a perennial, rhizomatous herb found throughout eastern Australia.

EDIBLE OZ

Tea Tree: The Protector - Wonderground

An exploration of the historical, medicinal and cultural uses of the Australian Tea Tree. A lovely read!

WONDERGROUND|GEORGINA REID

Bottlebrush Tree: Tea, Medicinal Uses & Growing Guide | ForagingGuru

Bottlebrush trees can be used as a gorgeous evergreen shrub for borders and gardens. They are also edible and great for making tea.

FORAGINGGURU

Are Myrtle Flowers Edible?

Common myrtle shrubs (Myrtus communis) produce beautiful, small white flowers during summer and fall. Although these flowers look attractive

PETAL REPUBLIC|EDWARD HODSDON

MYRTLE: Overview, Uses, Side Effects, Precautions, Interactions, Dosing and Reviews

Learn more about MYRTLE uses, effectiveness, possible side effects, interactions, dosage, user ratings and products that contain MYRTLE.

WEBMD.COM

medicinal herbs: BANKSIA ROSE - Rosa banksiae

Natutal medicine can heal your body and mind. Medicinal herbs: Banksia Rose (Rosa banksiae)

NATURALMEDICINALHERBS.NET

FILES-PREPROD-D9.NORTHERNBEACHES.NSW.GOV.AU

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[malleedesign]

New Post has been published on https://malleedesign.com.au/why-are-birds-not-visiting-my-bird-bath/

Why are birds not visiting my bird bath?

There are a number of reasons for not seeing birds in a birdbath. You may not have allowed enough time for birds to find your birdbath, birds may actually be coming but you don’t see them or cats may be disrupting an array of local species. Placement of the birdbath as well as the type of habitat provided in your garden are essential to note as well. This article explains the typical problems people have with attracting birds to their garden and how to position a birdbath amongst native plant species so that birdlife has the opportunity to thrive.

A White-plummed Honeyeater visits a birdbath beneath Eucalyptus erythrocorys and a Grevillea ‘Elegance’

Birds may take between a few days and a few weeks to discover and start visiting the birdbath, it will be quicker if you’ve had a source of water in your garden before. If your birdbath is the first source of water to be introduced to the garden then it may take a few weeks for birds to find the water. Sometimes they come almost immediately, sometimes they wait for the bright copper to discolour and become less reflective.

Many birds will visit at dawn and dusk and will avoid times when human activity is present. A cheap wildlife trap camera, such as the one shown below, is an excellent way to get a record of birds visiting whilst no one is looking. Or you may want to raise from bed early one morning to try witness the dawn chorus!

A wildlife trap camera (such as the Bushnell shown here) will be triggered when movement is detected on the birdbath.

Another common reason for the absence of birds is neighbourhood cats. Cats can leave a scent that birds will detect and avoid and if there is too much foliage around a birdbath cats can also hide and then pounce on bird species at close range. We find that wildlife trap cameras will often capture visiting cats, especially at night. To avoid cat predation try to raise your birdbath as much as possible and position it in an area of your garden not frequented by cats. Raising your bath to at leat one metre is recommended if you know cats are present in your area.

Cats are one of the biggest threats to birds across Australia

There are various other strategies that one can try to keep cats away; a quick google search reveals a few different strategies. We scatter human hair in key places around. It is difficult to judge how effective this is.

You may also struggle to see birds if the birdbath is exposed to full sun or in an exposed postion, without any local tree cover or local planting. Birds like to land in nearby trees and bushes to survey the area for any threats before committing to a bath or drink. Small birds in particular are unlikely to frequent a birdbath without any nearby shelter. Overhanging plants protect them from the larger predatory birds that might swoop in and attempt an attack. Only the larger, more confident birds (like the currawongs) tend to visit an exposed bath.

Another thing to note about exposed birdbaths is that the temperature of the water inside them will warm up throughout the day. Shading the bath will make the water cooler and more refreshing for the birds to drink from on those hot days.

Birdbaths in full sun are less appealing to native birdlife

Perch points are another important aspect of setting up a birdbath as birds need somewhere to access the water from and may like to examine the depth of the water before jumping in. It’s a good idea to place a rock in the centre of the bath as another perching point. Overhanging branches and adjacent shrubs will also improve bird accessibility.

This rock in the middle of the birdbath gives a Little Wattlebird greater access to the water in the birdbath

Once you’ve setup your birdbath in an appropriate location think about the types of birds you want to attract. One of the best ways to attract more birds to the garden is to plant bird-attracting plants; plants that offer food. With food close-by birds will be able to feast and drink close together. Here’s a list of plants that with bird-attracting flowers: http://malleedesign.com.au/category/bird-attracting/.

With the right planting it is possible to attract specific species of birds. For example, if you wanted to attract Satin Bowerbirds you could plant the native lily, Dianella caerulea, which produces a succulent blue fruit.

Dinanella caerulea

Bowerbirds use the fruit to decorate their bowers and are also one of several native birds that feed on the fruits. What’s more is the dense leafage of the lily provides shelter for small birds like wrens or thornbills to hang out in: http://malleedesign.com.au/bush-tucker-under-dog/

A Satin Bowerbird leans over a birdbath underneath and Banksia tree.

Before going all-out with planting native species it’s important to think about the kinds of birds you want to attract. Different groups of birds prefer different habitats and food sources. Keep in mind that many birds will visit seasonally, in line with when their food sources are available. If they are a migratory species you may only see them if they are stopping to rest in your area.

If you aren’t seeing a particular bird in your garden it might be a good idea to check BirdLife Australia’s website for more details on its geographic distribution, feeding habits and seasonality: https://birdlife.org.au/all-about-birds/australias-birds

Musk Lorikeets follow the trail of nectar-filled flowers and fruits throughout the seasons

One way of thinking about birds is in the following five groups:

Insectivorous birds, like Superb Fairy Wrens and many of the smaller birds, will be attracted to a garden that has insect-attracting plants e.g. wattles (Acacias) and tea trees (Leptospermum). They tend to prefer spiky habitat shrubs, which offer refuge and shelter from predators.

Parrots, like the Crimson Rosellas and Rainbow Lorikeets are seed-eating birds but will also prey on insects and sometimes drink nectar too. Their beaks are designed for prying open nuts and seeds from native species.

Crimson Rosellas are parrots with beaks for breaking open nuts and seeds

Honeyeaters love those wonderful, nectar-filled flowers iconic to eucalypts, Melaleucas and Callistemons. One examples is Angophora hispida, a small tree with blossoming white flowers in Summer that attract Little Wattlebirds. http://malleedesign.com.au/perfect-small-feature-tree-angophora-hispida/

Angophora hispida

Carnivorous birds, including the Kookaburras, butcherbirds and magpies tend to be bolder birds, which aren’t as concerned about whether the birdbath is sheltered or not. They may take larger prey such as lizards and skinks from your garden as well as smaller insects. Many of them are generalist feeders.

Larger birds, also tend to be bold and may dominate a garden if there isn’t enough habitat protection around for the smaller birds. They also include cockatoos like our beautiful Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoo, which like to feed on large Banksia and Casuarina seeds.

A magpie’s pointed beak allows pierce insect and reptilian prey

The following resource by Birdlife Australia has extra tips on how to attract different groups of birds: https://birdlife.org.au/images/uploads/education_sheets/INFO-Attracting-birds-to-garden.pdf

If you’re still having difficulty attracting birds to your garden after considering these factors then try moving your birdbath to a different part of your garden. Maybe the birds just don’t like the fengshui of the spot that it’s in at the moment!

Good luck with your birdbath and happy birdwatching,

The Mallee Team

[diegobonetto]

In seasin now: Blue flax lily

Here they are! If you live on the East Coast of Australia you have probably noticed the blue berries popping up along park trails and in street plantings.  I have a hunch, I think the native nurseries found a way to economically propagate the plant.

It is undeniable that about 4-5 years ago the various contractors and bush regenerators started to plant the native Blue flax lily everywhere. In parks, reserves, along the fence of children's playgrounds, in schools, in streets green areas, just under the trees. Indeed if you look around those areas in Sydney, Newcastle, Wollongong, Brisbane, Melbourne, the low bright green sedge-looking plants are either Blue flax lily ( Dianella caerulea) or Matt rushes (lamandra spp. also native). Why all at the sudden the change in plantings? My suspicion is that the nurseries found the way to propagate them cheaply.. AND LUCKY US! Indeed those blue berries bursting out of the bushes right now are just delicious!

Have a look at the images below, easy to recognise, distinctive flowers and distinctive berries. High competition with skinks and native lizards (who also love them) and beware, the season is very short, you only got until the end of the year for them, about 4/5 weeks.

 Name: Blue flax lily

Latin Name: Dianella caerulea

Family: Xanthorrhoeaceae

Description: A plant which keeps growing from year to year. It forms mats, growing to 1.5 m high and spreading to 1.5 m across. The stem is erect, the leaves are long and strap like. They can be 75 cm long with rough edges. The flowers are star shaped, blue and in loose clusters at the ends of branches. The fruit are shiny blue berries 7-12 mm long.

Notes: It adapts readily to cultivation and is commonly seen in Australian gardens and amenities plantings.

Edible Uses: Fruit – raw or cooked. The fruit is up to 1.5cm in diameter. Roots – The length of rhizomes are pounded and roasted.

Warnings: None Known

Medicinal Uses: None Known

Other Uses: Basketry; Fibre.

Other Information: A very strong silky fibre is obtained from the leaves. The leaves are also used in making baskets.

Links: Plant for a Future

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New Post has been published on http://malleedesign.com.au/silver-in-the-shade-plectranthus-argentatus/

Silver in the Shade: Plectranthus argentatus

If you are looking for a native understory plant to grow where no plant has succeeded before give Plectranthus argentatus a try. It will grow in the dry soil under large trees and ramble about filling in bare patches and creating a dense silver layer to a dark forgotten corner.

Plectranthus argentatus has a lightly suckering root system, enabling it to spread in somewhat a weedy habit, you need to keep an eye on it or it may just colonise into precious areas of your garden.

It needs to be cut back quite hard in late winter, as it can get very leggy and scrappy looking. It will also grow in dry, sunny positions, making it a versatile garden plant in subtropical gardens.

It combines well with strappy leaved plants like Dianella caerulea, Lomandra ‘Tanika’ and Asplenium nidus. The large furry silver leaves blend in with rainforest or tropical plants but also provide structure and continuity in a contemporary style.

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New Post has been published on http://malleedesign.com.au/portfolio-bexley-garden-design/

Portfolio: Bexley Garden Design

This is a sweet little garden I designed about 4 years ago and it has been lovingly slowly built by the owner’s friend. It is a small rear garden behind a modest brick house in the south western suburbs of Sydney where the mac mansions are taking over. On my visit today the first thing I noticed was not how wonderful the front garden was looking but how the next-door neighbours monstrosity of a new 3 storey house is completely blocking my clients solar panels on the northern side. Honestly, I do not understand Sydney councils…

Planting for privacy for this new build was very important and we are both very glad we kept the exisitng Callistemons on the northern side. The garden is divided up into several small outdoor spaces for contemplation and visitors.

A dry creek bed separates the entertaining paved area from two small sitting nooks.

The seating areas are placed on opposite sides of the garden to provide shade and capture sun during the different seasons.

There is a dense bus food area to the rear boundary and mixed screening trees and shrubs. We used Grevillea ‘Ornage Marmalade’ and Backhousia citriodroa as the main privacy backdrop hedges, and then placed Acacia fimbriata Dwarf, Eucalyptus ‘Summer Red’ and Leptospermum brachyandrum ‘Silver’ as foreground and feature specimens.

The planting palette is quite simple and due to the gardens aspect and location in a built up suburb of Sydney I used plenty of luscious green foliage and layered planting to create a cool relaxed hideaway space.

My favourite plant in this garden is easily this Casuarina ‘Freefall’, it is drooping happily all over the place and is about 70cm high. I’m very happy with the soft weeping combination in this planting bed, in the background you can see Baeckea virgata Dwarf, then Acacia ‘Mini Cog’ with Casuarina ‘Cousin It’ rambling amongst the rocks.

Planting on the other side f the dry creek bed includes Acacia baileyana Prostrate (simulating water under the bridge), Poa ‘Kingsdale and Lomandra ‘Lime Tuff’.

The garden still requires some more shade, ironic considering the new shadows cast on the solar panels 😉 so a small Eucalyptus will be planted to the north west as added shelter for humans and animals alike.

The garden is wonderful habitat for blue tongues and skinks, they love the warm rocks and strappy leaves,  the birds and bees are also abundant in this garden as there is always something in bloom. I look forward to me next visit.