#400 iso shot at 1600 iso

[liverpoollomo]

Nikon F65. Ilford XP5 (shot at 1600.)

I have used this technique many times. I just seem to like doing it. I get a high iso film (or one I can push as is the case here) attach a 50mm prime to the F65 and see that happens.

There is something about taking photos in the dark that I quite like. I love seeing the glow of electric lights against the dark in a street scene and how shallow depth of field affects the composition.

[shutterfox5555]

Fujica ST705 with Paragon 400mm f6.3 lens and 2x extender, shot on Portra 400 pushed 2 stops to ISO 1600

[weatherandsky]

Here's another shot of Venus and Jupiter. I took this one between the walnut tree branches from home yesterday evening. I was too tired to leave home so I had to get a little creative. If you zoom in, you can see Jupiter's moons! The pair will still look close tonight... in the west after sunset. I'll have to reshare this image on Halloween. Some how it came out looking quite spooky🫣. Totally opposite vibe compared to my last image. Canon R6 iso 1600, 1/2 sec. Canon 100-400 @400mm f5.6, single exposure _______________ #weatherandskyphotography #astrophotography #universetoday #astrophoto #nightsky #NightScaper #nightscape #starphotography #starscape #starrynight #awesomeearth #starrysky #astro_photography #stars #naturescape #earthpix #nightphotography #instagram #instanight #NeverStopExploring #ourplanetdaily #shareyourweather #explorecanada #ontario #venus #planetaryconjunction #venusandjupiter #twanight #skyandtelescope (at Niagara Escarpment) https://www.instagram.com/p/CpSzvRtp_hD/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

[photoncatcher]

Sunset

Nikon D50; (1/400, 1/800, 1/1600, 1/4000); F/8; ISO 200; 55mm, Four Image Vertical Panorama

Shot 27/11/2006 Edited 03/02/2011

[argentiq]

leuven

📷 kodak ektar h35 half frame (pics 1 + 2) + nikon fe (pics 3 + 4)

🎞️ kodak ultramax 400 iso (pics 1 + 2) + fujifilm superia 1600 expired in 2004 and shot at 400

🧙🏻‍♂️dev/scan @morifilmlab

[ardn516-abigailmirko]

Workshop: Exposure | Week One.

Task 1 : 3x Photographs of the same scene -> Take an exposure reading from highlight, mid-tone and shadow + using all the different metering systems available. -> How do these different light qualities impact on your image?

-> First photo is shot in a shutter speed of 1/200, F stop 5.6, ISO 100 and an evaluative metering system. -> Second photo is shot in a shutter speed of 1/320, F stop 5.6, ISO 100 and a partial metering system. -> Third photo is shot in a shutter speed of 1/320, F stop 5.6, ISO 100 and a centre-weighted metering system.

The photos look pretty much the same even shot in somewhat different settings besides not in the exact same position. The first one looks like there is more brightness within the photo compared to the other two.

-> First photo is shot in a shutter speed 1/320, F stop 7.1, ISO 100 and an evaluative metering system. -> Second photo is shot in a shutter speed of 1/160, F stop 8 and ISO 100 and a partial metering system. -> Third photo is shot in a shutter speed of 1/200, F stop 5.6 and ISO 100 and a centre-weighted metering system.

These photos are quite different, probably due to the different settings

Task 2 : Produce a correctly exposed image using an aperture of f16, f8, f5.6, adjusting the shutter speed to suit the lighting situation. -> How will you ensure a correct exposure even though you are using a different aperture/shutter speed combination?

-> First photo was shot in shutter speed 1/15, F stop 16 and ISO 100. -> Second photo was shot in shutter speed 1/40, F stop 8 and ISO 100. -> Third photo was shot in a shutter speed 1/80, F stop 5.6 and ISO 100.

In order to keep the exposure correct, I kept adjusting the shutter speed but I had kept the same ISO (next time I think i'd adjust the ISO speed as there wasn't that much light and it was more gloomy). I had adjusted the shutter speed to a smaller for the first photo so that I could get more light into the photo but it's a little shaky/blurry so I would use a tripod next time so that the photo is more steady and clear. The second photo I made the shutter speed a bit slower so that light was still being let in but it was not over exposing the photo. For the third photo I made the shutter speed 1/80 as the aperture was quite small and already letting light in so I needed to balance the both out.

Task 3 : Set ISO to 100 and take an in-focus photograph at 9pm at home using the smallest aperture your lens allow. -> How will you determine if the shutter speed is too slow and thereby will cause camera shake? Will you need a tripod?

Task 4 : In low-light situation, produce a series of images from different ISO's of 100, 200, 400, 800 and 1600. Use F11 and corresponding shutter speed. -> Will you need a tripod?

-> First photo was shot with a shutter speed 1/8, F stop 11, ISO 100. -> Second photo was shot with a shutter speed 1/10, F stop 11, ISO 200. -> Third photo was shot with a shutter speed 1/15, F stop 11, ISO 400. -> Fourth photo was shot with a shutter speed 1/20, F stop 11, ISO 800. -> Fifth photo was shot with a shutter speed 1/30, F stop 11, ISO 1600.

Photos gradually get better brighter as I made sure to adjust the shutter speed to produce somewhat of a equally exposed photo while using the different ISO's as they became less sensitive to light.

Task 5 : Photograph something placed in front of a window at around midday without it becoming a silhouette. -> Where will you need to take your exposure reading from?

Task 5.1 : Photograph a white T-Shirt outside in the midday sun and produce an exposure where you can see the detailed texture in the fabric. Then repeat with a black T-Shirt.

Task 5.2 : Repeat these with an aperture of f16. Make sure the object fills the frame.

[shubhxms]

Manual Mode / Same shot at different ISO

Shutter Speed: 1/4 | Aperture: f/3.5 | ISO: 100

Shutter Speed: 1/6 | Aperture: f/3.5 | ISO: 200

Shutter Speed: 1/10 | Aperture: f/4 | ISO: 400

Shutter Speed: 1/15 | Aperture: f/4 | ISO: 800

Shutter Speed: 1/25 | Aperture: f/4 | ISO: 1600

Shutter Speed: 1/30 | Aperture: f/5 | ISO: 3200

Shutter Speed: 1/60 | Aperture: f/5 | ISO: 6400

[ardn516jacobrussellholmes]

ExposureWorksheet_task4

In order from top to bottom, ISO 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600 For these low light shots i used a tripod and long exposure times to make sure the image was of a descant even exposure, from 30s to 5s

[ardn51-samanthatamayo]

Practice Exercise: Low Light Image Series

[1] F10 (Set 11), 30, ISO 125

[2] F10 (Set 11), 30, ISO 200

[3] F10 (Set 11), 1.1, ISO 400

[4] F10 (Set 11), 1, ISO 800

[5] F10 (Set 11), 0.6, ISO 1600

For these shots, I did also need a tripod for the first two shots; maybe even for the third as well.

[ardn516varickevangelista]

Week One In-Class assignments.

Task One:

Produce three photographs of the same scene. With each image take an exposure reading from the highlight, mid-tone and shadow. How do these different light qualities impact on your image? Repeat this exercise using all of the different metering systems available on your camera.

Task Two:

Produce a correctly exposed image (that is different to what you did for the first exercise) using an aperture of f16 and whatever shutter speed corresponds to the lighting situation. Now produce two more of the same image again, but this time adjust your aperture to f8 and then to f5.6 – how will you ensure a correct exposure even though you are using a different aperture/shutter speed combination?

f/16

f/8

f/5.6

Whilst on mirrorless, its far easier to know when you think you have the right exposure through your own eyes, I still used the built in light meter to determine when the camera sees the scene being captured live and shows + 0.0 on the light meter.

Task Three:

Set the ISO on your camera to 100, and take an in focus (i.e.: no camera shake) photograph at 9pm somewhere inside your home, using the smallest aperture your lens allows. How will you determine if the shutter speed is too slow and thereby will cause camera shake? Will you need a tripod?

For my lens, the smallest apeature that I can go down is F/22. In my bedroom at approx 9:00pm, its obviously very dark, and the only thing keeping it illuminated is the light coming from my laptop screen.

Even with my laptop screen at full brightness, i'd still need the maximum amount of time (30s) that the sensor would need to be exposed without resorting to using bulb mode in order to get a somewhat exposed image. I placed my camera on top of one of my cupboards facing my bedroom window to prevent any movement during the period when the sensor is exposed.

This is what my camera looks like when doing long exposure.

This is what the image came out looking like. Can see what is in the picture frame, but this shows that I either need to raise my ISO, or use a tripod to get a better exposure in dark situations.

Task 4:

Produce a series of images (in a low light situation which you determine) utilizing an ISO of 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600. All of your images need to be f11 and whatever corresponding shutter speed. Will you need a tripod?

From the top 2 to the bottom photo, from iso 100 up to 1600.

iso 100: 0.6s

iso 200: 1/4s

iso 400: 1/8s

iso 800: 1/15s

iso 1600: 1/30s

The images may look bright, but in reality that environment was really dark. This is a place where a tripod would be ideal. Some pictures even have motion blur, despite my best to be as stable as I could taking those shots.

Task 5:

Photograph something placed in front of a window (i.e.: a person, an object, etc.) at around midday without it becoming a silhouette. Where will you need to take your exposure reading from? Next, photograph a white t-shirt outside in the midday sun and produce an exposure where you can see the detailed texture in the fabric. Now repeat the exercise using a piece of black clothing. Now repeat all three exercises, but this time ensure that your exposure utilizes an aperture of f16. With all these exercises, you want the person/object, t-shirt, black clothing to mostly fill the frame.

The light here in the living room is clearly shining on the stroller, so i'll use that as "something placed in front of a window".

With modern advances in camera technology, it's ideal to shoot for the highlights (this photo, it would be the window itself). Raw files can recover a lot of detail, even when pushed in post.

these ones taken at f/8

These ones taken at f/16.

It's hard to tell in Tumblr because of compression, but at f/16 there is less detail to be seen of the fabrics on both the white and black shirts. This is due to defraction that occurs on the lens because we have stopped down beyond the lenses peak sharpness.

[liverpoollomo]

Thornbridge Tap Room. Nikon F65. Ilford XP5 (shot at 1600.)

Whilst visiting The Joiners Arms I was informed by the barman that the Thornbridge Brewery was "just up the road." I made up my mind to visit the next day as I was yet to decide what to do for dinner that evening and an enthusiastic customer also informed me that their pizza was well worth the journey.

As I was driving I did not sample any of their beers and (perhaps unwisely) I did not purchase any to take back to the cottage with me as I reasoned I had quite enough beers already. If I ever visit Bakewell again I shall be making a return visit to taste all the beers I cannot easily get in Liverpool.

[shutterfox5555]

Ilford Sportsman shot on Ilford HP5 400 pushed 2 stops to ISO 1600 and developed with Rodinal

[charles-ars281-fall2023]

first 2 shots:

cars on stony brook campus taken at different shutter speeds

1. 1/13 f16 ISO: 50

2. 1/250 f5.6 ISO: 50

next 2 pictures: flowers on stony brook campus at different apertures

1. 1/4000 f1.4 ISO: 50

2. 1/500 f5.6 ISO: 50

next 2 pictures: studio shoot i did for safi

1. 1/400 f2.8 ISO 800

2. 1/125 f2.8 ISO 200

last 2 pictures: smoked out MSG and super long exposure

1. 1/35 f2.4 ISO:1600

2. 15” f22 ISO:100

[anantradingpvtltd]

Price: [price_with_discount] (as of [price_update_date] - Details) [ad_1] Product Description Never miss a moment Photo Resolution: 24M/ 20M/16M/14M/12M/10M/8M Video Resolution: 4K 60fps / 4K30fps /2.7K 60FPS/2.7K 30FPS/ 1080P 120fps / 1080P 60fps / 1080P 30fps / 720P 240fps Driving Mode: Off/On Turn on car mode and connect camera with car charger, the camera will turn on automatically and start recording if you start your car engine. And the camera will turn off and stop recording if you turn off the car engine. Auto Low Light: On / Off Automatically adjust the brightness in low light conditions to achieve the best low light performance. Capture the Perfect Shot FOV (Field of View): Wide/Medium/Narrow Capture what’s hidden from human eye LDC (Lens Distortion Correction）: On / Off It can correct the image distortion ISO: Auto / 100 / 200 / 400 / 800 / 1600 / 3200 A trade off between brightness and resulting image noise AWB: Auto / daylight / cloudy / Incandescent / Fluorescent / Snorkeling / Snow Mode Adjust the color temperature to optimize for cool or warm lighting conditions Take Control of Time TL Duration: Unlimited/5Mins / 10Mins /15Mins / 20Mins/ 30Mins / 60Mins Continuously creates Time Lapse Video at specific duration. Long Exposure：Off / 1sec / 3sec / 5sec / 8sec / 30sec / 60sec Make dark scenes clearer and get fantastic effects. Time-Lapse Video: Off / 1Sec / 3Secs / 5Secs / 10Secs /30Secs /1min Creates video from frames captured at specific intervals Loop Video : Off / 1min /3min/ 5min Feel the Easy Screen Saver: Off / 1min / 3min / 5min Turns off the LCD display after a period of inactivity to save battery life. RF Remote: On/Off Power Off: Off / 1min / 3min / 5min WiFi App Lets you control your camera remotely using a smart phone or tablet. Features include full camera control, live preview, playback and sharing of selected content and more. Waterproof Case The waterproof case does not only offer greater waterproof protection to your camera, it also offers extra protection against dust, scratches and shocks. You can record activities 30M under water Tell Your story Your way EV(Exposure Value): -3 ~ +3 Lets you select an area that you want the camera to prioritize when determining exposure. Slow Motion: On / Off Slow motion is an effect in film-making whereby time appears to be slowed down. Fast Motion: Off / 2x / 4x / 6x / 10x /15x EIS (Electronic Image Stabilization) : ON/OFF Equipped EIS function with 6-axis gyroscope to detect motion changes. When the camera tilts, moves, shakes, the sensor compensate the change and produce stable videos Capture the Most Dramatic Shots Self-Timer: 2sec / 10sec

A delay to let you fit in AE Meter: Center / Multi / Spot Select the most appropriate one for use in various lighting conditions Effect: Standard / Black & White / Natural / Negative / Retro / Brightness Contrast Burst Photo: Off / 3photos / 5photos / 15Photos / 30Photos Can take up to 30 photos in a certain amount of time, making it ideal for fast-moving events. TIPS for getting Best Results from your Action Camera Action Camera is for outdoors, so for best results record in outdoors with proper lighting (Do not test clarity indoors as it will not give you true results)Camera screens are NOT 4K - hence always transfer the photos / video through HDMI & check on 4K Laptop/PC/TVClarity drops in "iSMART DV2" mobile applicationViewing/Uploading using mobile application is just for convenience and with reduced qualityThe video quality DROPS if the recorded videos are uploaded or viewed from wireless WiFi using appFor BEST QUALITY, upload/view videos in Laptop/PC/TV by connecting camera and Laptop/PC using micro HDMI Cable & card readerAlways use U3 + Class 10 memory card for recording videos - using low quality SD card will not give clear videosPeel off the transparent protective film on the Lens before usingWhen using underwater or near water, always use the provided waterproof case Taking 6-Axis Gyro EIS Stabilization to a new level of stabilization, Super smooth brings you the capability to make crisp, shake-free, and butter-smooth image steadiness in the video like the camera is riding on its own rails. Water resistant to depth of up to 30 meters to meet most of the underwater sports records (with waterproof case) & With Wi-Fi support switch to the much faster on-demand to speed up file transfers and other app-based functions like low-latency image previews. With 128GB U3 Class+ 10 memory card(not included) for Capture crisp, pro-quality photos with 12MP interpolated to 24MP clarity. Digitek GoCAM DAC-001 can automatically pick all the best image processing for you, so it’s super easy to nail the shot. Shoot stunning video with up to 4K resolution, perfect for maintaining serious detail even when zooming in With 2nos of 1350mAh battery for long time operation, this camera almost covers all the functions that you need or you can imagine. For example, loop recording, time lapse recording, slow motion, self-timer, burst photo, screen saver, upside down, white balance and so on [ad_2]

[livefromphilly]

Panasonic GX85 Thoughts After Five Months

PROS:

Much like the GX7, it’s a small and light system. This one kicks it up a notch from that camera with a thinner grip and less of a protrusion for the EVF (while sacrificing the tilting action from the GX7). 

The shutter is much quitter. The GX7 was one of the loudest cameras I owned, which always felt odd since it focused so silently and it was so small. 

It was cheap. I thought the GX7 was cheap when I got it, but this ended up being a little cheaper when I got it from eBay. The only “issue” is that I also got duplicates of the two lenses I picked up with the GX7. 

The autofocus seems a bit better than the GX7, and it focuses surprisingly well in low-light. 

The IBIS is pretty damn good. It seems comparable to my Ricoh GR and slightly better than my A7C, although it’s stabilizing a much smaller sensor than those two cameras. 

CONS:

While it’s better than the GX7 in a lot of ways, it’s also worse in a few. The shutter is quieter but it maxes out at 1/4000 compared to 1/8000. It also has a worse flash sync speed, which I guess isn’t a huge deal now since I have the GR with its leaf shutter in case I want to do some strobist stuff. 

Battery life isn’t great. It takes the same batteries as the GX7 so I already had a few, but you definitely need three or four if you want a whole day of shooting. Looking at DPReview it’s actually rated for only 290 shots compared to the GX7’s 320. 

The sensor is pretty much the same sans the AA filter. High ISO performance isn’t the best and it also can struggle with blown highlights. 

It still has that issue that the GX7 has where dialing in focal lengths for IBIS doesn’t have enough options. I have a manual focus 25mm and for whatever reason that’s not an option to input on here. 

(All sample photos edited in Lightroom Classic, some with additional adjustments from DxO PureRAW 2.)

Panasonic Lumix 25mm f/1.7.  f/1.7, 1/320, ISO 800 [Edited in Lightroom Classic.]

Panasonic Lumix 45-150mm f/4-5.6 at 45mm. f/8, 1/1600, ISO 640. [Edited in Lightroom Classic and DXO PureRAW 2]

Panasonic Lumix 45-150mm f/4-5.6 at 65mm. f/8, 1/2000, ISO 400 [Edited in Lightroom Classic.]

Panasonic Lumix 25mm f/1.7. f/2, 1/250, ISO 320. [Edited in Lightroom Classic and DXO PureRAW 2.]

Panasonic Leica 15mm f/1.7. f/2, 1/50, ISO 640. [Edited in Lightroom Classic.]

Panasonic Lumix G Vario 12-32 f/3.5-5.6. [Edited in Lightroom Classic and DXO PureRAW 2.]

Panasonic Lumix G Vario 12-32 f/3.5-5.6. [Edited in Lightroom Classic.]

[sammynq1]

Studio class- folio 2 week 2

Macro photography (extension tubes)- Nature photography

Above is 6 of my favourite images shot using the extension tubes today.

The top 2 images were shot using 3 extension tubes, F8.0 and an ISO of 1600

The middle 2 images were shot using 2 extension tubes, F11 and an ISO of 400

The bottom 2 images were shot using 1 extension tube, F8.0 and an ISO of 800

All images use a shutter-speed of 1/125