#1910s coats

[mote-historie]

George Barbier. Coromandel. Manteau et robe du soir, 1913. La Gazette du Bon Ton, Fevrier 1914.

[frostedmagnolias]

An unusual and finely tailored tobacco-coloured wool coat

c. 1911

Kerry Taylor Auctions

[fashionsfromhistory]

Fireman's Coat

Late 19th Century to Early 20th Century

Japan

Japanese firemen's coats are reversible. When fighting fires, the coat was worn as shown, together with close-fitting trousers, a hood, and gloves. Saturated with water, these garments gave protection against flames. A bold, legible pattern on the back identified the fireman’s brigade. For festive occasions, the pictorial side faced outward. This coat shows the Toad Spirit offering to teach the robber Jiraya magic, provided he used it only to benefit humanity.

Denver Art Museum (Accession Number: 1999.265)

[lookingbackatfashionhistory]

• Woman's Coat.

Designer/Maker: Worth

Place of origin: France, Paris

Date: 1910-1911

Medium: Silk cut and voided velvet on silk and metallic-thread satin ground with metallic lace and jet and glass beads.

[chic-a-gigot]

L'Art et la mode, no. 42, vol. 39, 19 octobre 1918, Paris. Robe en Limousine diaburem garnie de loutre. Bibliothèque nationale de France

[resplendentoutfit]

Japanese Insired Coats of the 1910s

Maison Amy Linker • Paris

A coat with a silhouette like an outer robe for kimono was described as a “manteau japonais” by fashion magazines of the time, and the silhouette of this particular coat is reminiscent of the “uchikake” robe worn by kabuki actors or oiran courtesans in ukiyoe prints. The boldly striped collar is probably inspired by the “date-eri” collar style used in kabuki costume. The flower-like motifs executed in embroidered beads look like the traditional “hanakatsumi” motif that became popular in late Edo-period Japan when favored by kabuki actors. In contrast, the motifs on the bordered panel on the back resemble motifs used around the Mediterranean in ancient times, and could reasonably be called palmettes. This coat is an excellent example of oriental-style wear packed with eclectic elements that were fashionable early in the 1910s. Maison Amy Linker opened in Paris in 1900, specializing particularly in coats and suits. Its latest products were frequently seen in French fashion magazines early in the 20th century. The house is perhaps best known for introducing sporty fashions in the 1920s.

Many of the era's most prominent designers created manteau Japonais. Below are a few more examples of Japanese inspired cocoon coats of the era.

Two Paul Poiret Japonaise manteau

Jean-Philippe Worth • c. 1910

Right: Jaques Ducet embellished house coat

Left: Mariano Fortuny kimono coat • 1910s

Evening coat • French • c. 1912

[paletapessoal]

Evening cape by Callot Soeurs, gold on ivory silk, ca. 1910

[ghw-archive]

Photographs taken in France, at the Longchamp horse races, early 1910s

[realhistoricalpatterns]

Patrons Favoris (c.1911 or abt 1919) evening coat

RHP note: Opera coats are a funny thing, and this one is no exception. This particular style of opera coat and hair style was popular in 1911 and then again in 1918-1919 at the tail end of the war. Having spent more time than I’d like looking around for this one, I’m going to just slap it into both categories as you will likely be safe wearing it in either one.

[gogmstuff]

More 1914 Fashion -

1914 Prinsessan Margareta by Oscar Björk (Kungliga Slotten - Stockholm, Sweden). From kungligaslotten.se/ur-arkivet/bernadotteportratt/2018-02-14-prinsessan-margareta-1882-1920.html; enlarged one quarter 706X1353.

1914 Prince Oskar & His Bride Countess Ina Marie von Basseewitz. From eBay; fixed spots & flaws, esp. upper rt. corner, removed mono-color tint, & increased contrast 913X1498.

1914 Regla Manjón, Countess of Lebrija by Joaquín Bastida y Sorolla (private collection). From the-athenaeum; fixed spots w Pshop 1280X949.

Left 1914 Real Automóvil-Club de Cataluña. Copa Tibidabo by Ramon Casas (Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya - Barcelona, Catalunya, Spain). From atsandculture.google.com 1970X2704.

Center 1914 Robe du soir par Beer. From castaroundlesmodes.tumblr.com/post/68582843613/robe-du-soir-par-beer-1914?is_related_post=1 729X1135.

Right 1914 Waiting for the results. From messynessychic.com/2018/04/27/lovely-ladies-in-lace-at-the-paris-races; removed print and filled in lower 2/3 of left edge with Photoshop 924X1280.

1914 Society Beauty by Friedrich August von Kaulbach (for sale at Brady Hart Gallery). From their Web site; fixed flaws & bigger spots w Pshop 2500X3333.

1914 Costumes Parisiens…, Manteau de Soir en velours frappe Garni de Soir brochee d'argent by George Barbier. From tumblr.com/mote-historie/732065935834398720/george-barbier-manteau-de-soir-en-velours-frappe?source=share&.

1914 Woman at the Piano by Nathan Altman (State Tretyakov Gallery - Moskva, Russia). From arthive.com/artists/1711~Nathan_Isaevich_Altman/works/10728~The_lady_at_the_piano 647X1400. This shows art deco influence.

[alwaysalwaysalwaysthesea]

Wiener Werkstätte Cresta coat designed by Eduard Josef Wimmer-Wisgrill using Bavaria fabric by Carl Otto Czeschka, 1913.

(source: MAK)

[mote-historie]

Fashion plate by Xavier Gosé. Blue satin evening coat trimmed with Irish lace (Manteau du soir en Satin bleu centre avec garnitures d'Irlande). Costumes Parisiens, Journal des Dames et des Modes, Paris, 1 September 1912.

[frostedmagnolias]

ink-blue silk lamé opera coat

c. 1905-1910

Kerry Taylor Auctions

[chiropteracupola]

I need a silly new hat RIGHT now a new silly hat will FIX me

[dannais-dde-daneann]

Archive-2022/23: Cool winter outfit in style of 1915-16 Pa-1

[chic-a-gigot]

Les Modes : revue mensuelle illustrée des arts décoratifs appliqués à la femme, no. 142, vol. 12, octobre 1912, Paris. Robe de bal et manteau du soir. — Laferrière. Photo Talbot. Bibliothèque nationale de France

Robe en lamé argent rebrodé de fleurs d'or, recouverte d'un péplum en mousseline de soie violette brodée d'or: bordure de skungs. Manteau de taffetas avec impressions bleues Pompadour sur un fond maïs, garni de velours violet; col de dentelle d'or.

Dress in silver lamé embroidered with gold flowers, covered with a peplum in purple silk muslin embroidered with gold: border of skungs. Coat of taffeta with blue Pompadour prints on a corn background, trimmed with purple velvet; collar of gold lace.