#1868 fashion

[lookingbackatfashionhistory]

• Dress.

Date: ca. 1868

Medium: Watered silk faille, soutache cording, metal.

~ From the source: Margaretta Sophia Howard Ridgely (1824–1904) likely purchased this royal blue, silk moiré visiting dress during her travels through England and France in 1870. Black soutache cording embellishes the dress, which closes in the front with metal hooks and eyes and black thread-covered wooden buttons. Ridgely's husband, Charles Ridgely (1838–1872), did not survive the trip and passed away in 1872, upon which Margaretta entered mourning, wearing only blacks, greys, and later dull purples. This dress, so eye-catching and vibrant, would have been inappropriate to wear in mourning and was packed away, never to be worn again.

[antiquebee]

1868

[historical-fashion-polls]

submitted by @bonjourmiaou 💙💙

[frostedmagnolias]

Evening Dress

c. 1868

McCord Stewart Museum

[designedandplated]

Women's Colourful and Black Gowns, November 1868.

[chic-a-gigot]

La Mode illustrée, no. 11, 15 mars 1868, Paris. Chlamydes Kachmir. Collection of the Rijksmuseum, Netherlands

Robe en poult-de-soie brune de deux teintes (étoffe changeante), simplement bordée d'une grosse corde de soie; grande chlamyde-cachemire fond gros bleu à riches dessins orientaux, et frange assortie. Chapeau blanc en tulle, avec fleurs de pommier; brides-écharpes bordées de rouleaux en satin blanc.

Robe en faye gris d'argent, garnie avec trois rouleaux en velours gris qui garnissent le bord inférieur et remontent sur chaque côté d'une rangée de gros boutons en travers en même velours gris; mêmes ornements garnissant les poches, et formant sur le corsage montant une berthe carrée; chlamyde-cachemire fond blanc doublée de soie cerise, avec grands dessins persans et frange assortie. Chapeau en tulle noir moucheté, avec brodes-écharpes fixées sous le menton par un camée de jais; bandeau-diadème en velours noir, avec cinq camées en jais noir; ombrelle pareille à la robe, doublée de taffetas blanc; gants à trois boutons en peau de Suède.

—

Dress in brown poult-de-silk of two shades (changing fabric), simply edged with a thick silk rope; large chlamyde-cashmere (cashmere mantle) on a blue background with rich oriental designs, and matching fringe. White tulle hat, with apple blossoms; scarf straps edged with rolls of white satin.

Dress in silver gray faye, trimmed with three rolls of gray velvet which garnish the lower edge and go up on each side with a row of large buttons across in the same gray velvet; same ornaments garnishing the pockets, and forming a square berthe on the rising bodice; chlamyde-cashmere (cashmere mantle) on a white background lined with cherry silk, with large Persian designs and matching fringe. Hat in speckled black tulle, with embroidered scarves attached under the chin with a jet cameo; black velvet tiara headband, with five black jet cameos; parasol similar to the dress, lined with white taffeta; three-button gloves in suede skin.

[dozydawn]

[crinolinecuriousity]

Dress & Details | c.1868 | American

[hargita1920]

[medici-collar]

Title: Ball gown

Date: ca. 1868

Culture: French

Medium: silk

[theebonswan]

Day dress owned by Julia Norton Hartshorne, ca. 1868.

PLACE MADE: San Francisco or New York, U.S.A. MEDIUM: Cotton gauze, silk, glazed cotton PERIOD: 1868 DIMENSIONS: 57 × 23 in. (144.8 × 58.4 cm) CLASSIFICATIONS: Costume, Women's CREDIT LINE: Gift of Mary Minturn Adams in memory of her Hartshorne Ancestors, 2018 OBJECT NUMBER: 2018.10.32 COLLECTIONS: Women's Costume

A woman's one-piece gown of open weave black cotton gauze, with a front hook and eye closure and "dog leg" waistband closure at left front waist. The gown has a high collar, slightly dropped shoulder seams, long shaped sleeves, and a skirt with gored front panels and gathered back waistband flowing into a long trained hem. The skirt is lined with plain black silk, with an additional 12" high glazed brown cotton hem facing. The gown is trimmed with striking cornsilk yellow cotton fringe along with rows of three-dimensional cylindrical woven bands, appearing to be of stiffened cornsilk yellow cotton threads. The gown also includes a separate and removable waistband sash with an attached front rosette of black gauze and cornsilk fringe and a draped rear overskirt. The gown's bodice is lined with glazed off-white and glazed brown cotton with additional boning channels enclosing whalebone stiffening.

The wardrobe of Julia Norton Hartshorne, carefully preserved and protected in the years following her untimely death at the age of thirty, provides a rare glimpse into virtually an entire wardrobe of one woman at one moment in time. It is not uncommon for special garments of one particular person to be saved over time from various special occasions. Julia's wardrobe, however, presents a slice of a moment in time in her fashion choices. This particular gown is one of the more quirky in Julia's wardrobe, almost "concept fashion" in design. The unknown dressmaker relied on bold texture contrasts, with the matte black cotton gauze, so loosely woven as to give a rough appearance. The cornsilk yellow trimming is a profound contrast and appears to be of matte cotton fibers. The second type of trimming is a woven matte fiber, possibly cotton, appearing to be woven in the round, resulting in a cylindrical "ribbon." Many dressmakers regularly traveled to France and England to purchase fabrics, ribbons, and trimmings for their customers.

Monmouth County Historical Society, New Jersey

[lookingbackatfashionhistory]

• Woman's Wedding Dress.

Place of origin: Liverpool, England

Date: 1868

Medium: Silk taffeta

[antiquebee]

1868

[historical-fashion-polls]

submitted by @bonjourmiaou 🤍💙🖤

[vintageladyofthelowlands]

May 1868

[designedandplated]

Womens Gowns, October 1868.