#<-i may or may not have some form of lemon and/or citrus sensitivity but it's an annoyance at best

[tsubasaclones]

my favorite local restaurant is temporarily closed :( 

[januishstory]

Almost every gardener I know wishes for a greenhouse. Maybe you dream of moving your seed-starting operation out of your spare bedroom and into an outdoor space. Or you may want to experiment with growing citrus trees that are too big for your cozy yet tiny home. I get it—whether you’re a beginner or veteran grower, a greenhouse is an exciting addition to your garden! However, it also presents new challenges and a sometimes steep learning curve. If you want to grow healthy plants in your greenhouse this year, you must know how to manage this space properly. I’ll cover a few essential tips involving maintaining the proper environment, selecting the right plants, and making the most of this unique growing space. What Is a Greenhouse? They are permanent structures with a metal frame and glass or rigid plastic panels. If you’re part of the gardening world, you’ve probably heard people throw around terms like greenhouse, hoop house, high tunnel, and cold frame to refer to protected growing spaces. Since people use these terms so loosely, it can be challenging to determine if they all mean the same thing or if each one has a distinctive definition. While I’m not here to manage how you use these terms, knowing the exact definitions of each structure can be helpful. A greenhouse is typically a permanent or semi-permanent structure designed to stay in the same place for years. It’s often constructed of a metal frame and glass or rigid plastic panels, and the structure is often set on a solid foundation. Although it’s not a requirement, many greenhouses contain heating and/or automated ventilation systems. High tunnels and hoop houses are semi-permanent structures that are easy to move. They consist of large metal hoops covered with a UV-resistant plastic layer. Although some high tunnels have heating and ventilation systems, most do not. To manage temperature and ventilation, you can raise and lower the plastic sides of the tunnel. Cold frames are small, season-extension structures that can take many shapes and forms. They typically cover a single garden bed and require manual ventilation to control temperature and moisture. Although some of the following beginner tips apply to all of these structures, I’ve written them with greenhouses in mind. Establish Your Desired Use If you plan to use your greenhouse solely for seed starting, an eight-foot by eight-foot structure will work just fine. Before buying and growing in a greenhouse, consider how you will use it. Do you envision it as a seed-starting space, a place to overwinter your cold-sensitive lemon trees, or a spot where you can grow tomatoes early in the season? As long as you set up the space appropriately, it’s okay to use your greenhouse for multiple purposes. Determining how you will use your greenhouse will help you select the proper structure and build it appropriately. For example, if you plan to use it solely for seed starting, an eight-foot by eight-foot structure will work just fine. Since you won’t be growing any larger plants, you’ll have space to build a potting bench, tables for seedlings, and shelves for storing pots and soil mix. Since you’ll regularly water seedling trays, consider covering dirt floors with gravel or landscape fabric to avoid soil splash and weed growth. However, if you mainly want to use the space to overwinter cold-sensitive plants like citrus, ginger, and figs, you’ll probably want a different layout. You’ll need open areas where tall plants can expand and an opening that allows you to move them in and out of the greenhouse easily. And if you want to grow plants in the ground, you’ll want an entirely different setup! Rather than building a concrete or gravel floor, you’ll want to develop rich soil or build raised beds. You’ll also want to consider irrigation systems and ensure pathways are large enough to accommodate harvest baskets or bins. The moral of the story? Think about how you plan to use your greenhouse before filling it with plants so you can avoid common beginner mistakes. Designing a proper layout and systems ahead of time can save you countless headaches down the road. Pay Attention to Moisture The easiest way to control humidity is to use vents and fans. Since greenhouses are closed structures, humidity is a major concern. While it’s possible for the humidity to get too low in a greenhouse, growers usually face the opposite problem. Irrigation and plant transpiration can lead to moisture buildup in closed greenhouses. This high humidity means plants are more likely to develop fungal diseases like powdery mildew, downy mildew, and gray mold. Therefore, your goal is to keep the humidity at moderate to low levels. The easiest way to control humidity is to use vents and fans. They push out humid air and draw in dry air. Some greenhouses utilize sensors and automated systems to open vents and turn on fans when the greenhouse reaches a specific humidity level. However, you can manually open vents and turn on fans to decrease air moisture. Another option is adding a dehumidifier to your greenhouse. However, this won’t add a beneficial increase in airflow like fans and vents. If your greenhouse consistently has consistently high humidity, consider your irrigation practices. Watering your plants more than necessary will increase the air moisture levels. Plus, constantly moist soil will increase the likelihood of pests like fungus gnats. Regularly Scout for Pests Most pests experience increased reproduction rates in warm conditions. Since greenhouses are closed structures removed from the outside world, greenhouse-grown plants often face different pest pressures than their outdoor-grown counterparts. There are a few main reasons for these differences.  Absence of natural predators: Since greenhouses are mostly closed off from the outside world, natural predators like ladybugs, green lacewings, and hoverflies have difficulty entering. Therefore, the pests they feed on can quickly multiply. You can purchase and release natural predators, but be aware the predators will die or fly off when they run out of their food source. Favorable environment: Most pests experience increased reproduction rates in warm conditions. That means a few pests can quickly evolve into an outbreak. So, even if aphids or mealybugs aren’t a big deal in your cold garden in the late fall or winter, they can cause serious harm in the warm greenhouse. Closed from outdoors: Since your greenhouse is closed to the outdoors, the pests rarely escape. Instead, they continue to reproduce and feed on your greenhouse plants. One way to prevent pest damage is to regularly scout your greenhouse for unwelcome critters. Set aside 15 minutes each week to thoroughly inspect your plants. Turn over leaves and check the base of the plants near the soil. Note any insects and their numbers. If you’re not sure what the insects are, spend time figuring it out! Remember, not all insects are bad for your plants. Start by browsing through this list of common pests and common beneficial insects. Once you determine you’re dealing with a pest, you can take appropriate control measures. Removing the pests may be as simple as wiping the pests of your plants. Use a soapy rag and continuing to monitor their numbers. Avoid Sudden Swings in Temperature A combination of heaters, vents, and fans can help you maintain a relatively steady temperature. One major benefit of growing indoors is the ability to control and regulate temperature. With the help of a heater or a sunny day, the air inside your greenhouse can be 70°F (21°C), even if it’s below freezing outside. And if you’re not careful, the same greenhouse can reach over 100°F (38°C)! While you may be tempted to allow hot days to offset cold nights, you should avoid sudden temperature changes. It’s okay if the temperature is warmer during the day and cooler at night, but you shouldn’t see a swing of 50 degrees (10°C). A better option is maintaining a relatively steady temperature throughout the day and night. A combination of heaters, vents, and fans can help you accomplish this. Once the temperature reaches above 70 or 80°F (21-27°C) during the day, open vents and turn on fans to decrease the temperature. You can also use heaters during the night and program them to turn on when the temperature hits 50°F (10°C) or 40°F (4°C). When setting the temperature, remember that each plant has an ideal temperature range. Brassica and lettuce seedlings don’t mind temperatures near freezing, but many tropical plants experience stress when the temperature dips below 50°F (10°C). Select Proper Varieties Cucumbers are well-suited for greenhouses because they produce fruit without pollination. If you’re growing in the ground in your greenhouse, pay attention to the varieties you select. This applies whether you’re growing tomatoes in the spring, lettuce in the winter, or citrus year-round. Since growers often plant vegetables like tomatoes and cucumbers in protected culture, plant breeders have created varieties that thrive in these growing conditions. For example, there are cucumber varieties well-suited for greenhouses because they produce fruit without pollination. Since greenhouse tomato plants remain dry but are often grown in high humidity, resistance to leaf mold and gray mold is more important than resistance to early blight. If you plan to grow greens like lettuce, kale, and spinach throughout the winter, you should also look for well-suited varieties. While you can try growing any variety in your protected structure, cultivars resistant to common greenhouse diseases, such as downy mildew, are more likely to perform well. Avoid Wet Leaves Water potted plants near the base of the plant to avoid wet foliage and soil splash. Since wet leaves can lead to fungal diseases, it’s best to keep plant foliage dry. This is especially important in a greenhouse since airflow is often limited, and disease can spread quickly in the confined space. Water potted plants near the base of the plant to avoid wet foliage and soil splash.A watering can, hose, or drip irrigation system can all provide proper irrigation. You can also choose to bottom water potted plants and trays filled with seedlings. If you’re growing plants in the grow, opt for drip irrigation instead of overhead watering. Drip emitters apply water directly to the soil and keep foliage dry. If you choose to water seedlings with a hose, ensure you provide excellent airflow to dry the foliage and prevent disease. I recommend running fans near your seedlings, especially if you utilize overhead irrigation. Keep a Journal You can use the information in your journal to fine-tune your practices and continually improve your garden. Although beginners think they’ll never forget that intense aphid outbreak or that impressive tomato harvest, it’s easy to forget greenhouse milestones, let alone minuscule details. That’s why I recommend using a journal to keep track of planting dates, temperatures, pest problems, and more. If you notice some of your plants show signs of disease or cold-damaged, you can look back on your notes to try to determine a cause. For example, you may realize you brought disease into your greenhouse when you moved outdoor plants inside. You can also look back on your journal year after year to remember planting dates, first harvest dates, and when seedlings were large enough to transplant outdoors. Then, you can use this information to fine-tune your greenhouse practices and advance from a beginner to an expert indoor grower. Source link

[tameblog]

Almost every gardener I know wishes for a greenhouse. Maybe you dream of moving your seed-starting operation out of your spare bedroom and into an outdoor space. Or you may want to experiment with growing citrus trees that are too big for your cozy yet tiny home. I get it—whether you’re a beginner or veteran grower, a greenhouse is an exciting addition to your garden! However, it also presents new challenges and a sometimes steep learning curve. If you want to grow healthy plants in your greenhouse this year, you must know how to manage this space properly. I’ll cover a few essential tips involving maintaining the proper environment, selecting the right plants, and making the most of this unique growing space. What Is a Greenhouse? They are permanent structures with a metal frame and glass or rigid plastic panels. If you’re part of the gardening world, you’ve probably heard people throw around terms like greenhouse, hoop house, high tunnel, and cold frame to refer to protected growing spaces. Since people use these terms so loosely, it can be challenging to determine if they all mean the same thing or if each one has a distinctive definition. While I’m not here to manage how you use these terms, knowing the exact definitions of each structure can be helpful. A greenhouse is typically a permanent or semi-permanent structure designed to stay in the same place for years. It’s often constructed of a metal frame and glass or rigid plastic panels, and the structure is often set on a solid foundation. Although it’s not a requirement, many greenhouses contain heating and/or automated ventilation systems. High tunnels and hoop houses are semi-permanent structures that are easy to move. They consist of large metal hoops covered with a UV-resistant plastic layer. Although some high tunnels have heating and ventilation systems, most do not. To manage temperature and ventilation, you can raise and lower the plastic sides of the tunnel. Cold frames are small, season-extension structures that can take many shapes and forms. They typically cover a single garden bed and require manual ventilation to control temperature and moisture. Although some of the following beginner tips apply to all of these structures, I’ve written them with greenhouses in mind. Establish Your Desired Use If you plan to use your greenhouse solely for seed starting, an eight-foot by eight-foot structure will work just fine. Before buying and growing in a greenhouse, consider how you will use it. Do you envision it as a seed-starting space, a place to overwinter your cold-sensitive lemon trees, or a spot where you can grow tomatoes early in the season? As long as you set up the space appropriately, it’s okay to use your greenhouse for multiple purposes. Determining how you will use your greenhouse will help you select the proper structure and build it appropriately. For example, if you plan to use it solely for seed starting, an eight-foot by eight-foot structure will work just fine. Since you won’t be growing any larger plants, you’ll have space to build a potting bench, tables for seedlings, and shelves for storing pots and soil mix. Since you’ll regularly water seedling trays, consider covering dirt floors with gravel or landscape fabric to avoid soil splash and weed growth. However, if you mainly want to use the space to overwinter cold-sensitive plants like citrus, ginger, and figs, you’ll probably want a different layout. You’ll need open areas where tall plants can expand and an opening that allows you to move them in and out of the greenhouse easily. And if you want to grow plants in the ground, you’ll want an entirely different setup! Rather than building a concrete or gravel floor, you’ll want to develop rich soil or build raised beds. You’ll also want to consider irrigation systems and ensure pathways are large enough to accommodate harvest baskets or bins. The moral of the story? Think about how you plan to use your greenhouse before filling it with plants so you can avoid common beginner mistakes. Designing a proper layout and systems ahead of time can save you countless headaches down the road. Pay Attention to Moisture The easiest way to control humidity is to use vents and fans. Since greenhouses are closed structures, humidity is a major concern. While it’s possible for the humidity to get too low in a greenhouse, growers usually face the opposite problem. Irrigation and plant transpiration can lead to moisture buildup in closed greenhouses. This high humidity means plants are more likely to develop fungal diseases like powdery mildew, downy mildew, and gray mold. Therefore, your goal is to keep the humidity at moderate to low levels. The easiest way to control humidity is to use vents and fans. They push out humid air and draw in dry air. Some greenhouses utilize sensors and automated systems to open vents and turn on fans when the greenhouse reaches a specific humidity level. However, you can manually open vents and turn on fans to decrease air moisture. Another option is adding a dehumidifier to your greenhouse. However, this won’t add a beneficial increase in airflow like fans and vents. If your greenhouse consistently has consistently high humidity, consider your irrigation practices. Watering your plants more than necessary will increase the air moisture levels. Plus, constantly moist soil will increase the likelihood of pests like fungus gnats. Regularly Scout for Pests Most pests experience increased reproduction rates in warm conditions. Since greenhouses are closed structures removed from the outside world, greenhouse-grown plants often face different pest pressures than their outdoor-grown counterparts. There are a few main reasons for these differences.  Absence of natural predators: Since greenhouses are mostly closed off from the outside world, natural predators like ladybugs, green lacewings, and hoverflies have difficulty entering. Therefore, the pests they feed on can quickly multiply. You can purchase and release natural predators, but be aware the predators will die or fly off when they run out of their food source. Favorable environment: Most pests experience increased reproduction rates in warm conditions. That means a few pests can quickly evolve into an outbreak. So, even if aphids or mealybugs aren’t a big deal in your cold garden in the late fall or winter, they can cause serious harm in the warm greenhouse. Closed from outdoors: Since your greenhouse is closed to the outdoors, the pests rarely escape. Instead, they continue to reproduce and feed on your greenhouse plants. One way to prevent pest damage is to regularly scout your greenhouse for unwelcome critters. Set aside 15 minutes each week to thoroughly inspect your plants. Turn over leaves and check the base of the plants near the soil. Note any insects and their numbers. If you’re not sure what the insects are, spend time figuring it out! Remember, not all insects are bad for your plants. Start by browsing through this list of common pests and common beneficial insects. Once you determine you’re dealing with a pest, you can take appropriate control measures. Removing the pests may be as simple as wiping the pests of your plants. Use a soapy rag and continuing to monitor their numbers. Avoid Sudden Swings in Temperature A combination of heaters, vents, and fans can help you maintain a relatively steady temperature. One major benefit of growing indoors is the ability to control and regulate temperature. With the help of a heater or a sunny day, the air inside your greenhouse can be 70°F (21°C), even if it’s below freezing outside. And if you’re not careful, the same greenhouse can reach over 100°F (38°C)! While you may be tempted to allow hot days to offset cold nights, you should avoid sudden temperature changes. It’s okay if the temperature is warmer during the day and cooler at night, but you shouldn’t see a swing of 50 degrees (10°C). A better option is maintaining a relatively steady temperature throughout the day and night. A combination of heaters, vents, and fans can help you accomplish this. Once the temperature reaches above 70 or 80°F (21-27°C) during the day, open vents and turn on fans to decrease the temperature. You can also use heaters during the night and program them to turn on when the temperature hits 50°F (10°C) or 40°F (4°C). When setting the temperature, remember that each plant has an ideal temperature range. Brassica and lettuce seedlings don’t mind temperatures near freezing, but many tropical plants experience stress when the temperature dips below 50°F (10°C). Select Proper Varieties Cucumbers are well-suited for greenhouses because they produce fruit without pollination. If you’re growing in the ground in your greenhouse, pay attention to the varieties you select. This applies whether you’re growing tomatoes in the spring, lettuce in the winter, or citrus year-round. Since growers often plant vegetables like tomatoes and cucumbers in protected culture, plant breeders have created varieties that thrive in these growing conditions. For example, there are cucumber varieties well-suited for greenhouses because they produce fruit without pollination. Since greenhouse tomato plants remain dry but are often grown in high humidity, resistance to leaf mold and gray mold is more important than resistance to early blight. If you plan to grow greens like lettuce, kale, and spinach throughout the winter, you should also look for well-suited varieties. While you can try growing any variety in your protected structure, cultivars resistant to common greenhouse diseases, such as downy mildew, are more likely to perform well. Avoid Wet Leaves Water potted plants near the base of the plant to avoid wet foliage and soil splash. Since wet leaves can lead to fungal diseases, it’s best to keep plant foliage dry. This is especially important in a greenhouse since airflow is often limited, and disease can spread quickly in the confined space. Water potted plants near the base of the plant to avoid wet foliage and soil splash.A watering can, hose, or drip irrigation system can all provide proper irrigation. You can also choose to bottom water potted plants and trays filled with seedlings. If you’re growing plants in the grow, opt for drip irrigation instead of overhead watering. Drip emitters apply water directly to the soil and keep foliage dry. If you choose to water seedlings with a hose, ensure you provide excellent airflow to dry the foliage and prevent disease. I recommend running fans near your seedlings, especially if you utilize overhead irrigation. Keep a Journal You can use the information in your journal to fine-tune your practices and continually improve your garden. Although beginners think they’ll never forget that intense aphid outbreak or that impressive tomato harvest, it’s easy to forget greenhouse milestones, let alone minuscule details. That’s why I recommend using a journal to keep track of planting dates, temperatures, pest problems, and more. If you notice some of your plants show signs of disease or cold-damaged, you can look back on your notes to try to determine a cause. For example, you may realize you brought disease into your greenhouse when you moved outdoor plants inside. You can also look back on your journal year after year to remember planting dates, first harvest dates, and when seedlings were large enough to transplant outdoors. Then, you can use this information to fine-tune your greenhouse practices and advance from a beginner to an expert indoor grower. Source link

[ramestoryworld]

Almost every gardener I know wishes for a greenhouse. Maybe you dream of moving your seed-starting operation out of your spare bedroom and into an outdoor space. Or you may want to experiment with growing citrus trees that are too big for your cozy yet tiny home. I get it—whether you’re a beginner or veteran grower, a greenhouse is an exciting addition to your garden! However, it also presents new challenges and a sometimes steep learning curve. If you want to grow healthy plants in your greenhouse this year, you must know how to manage this space properly. I’ll cover a few essential tips involving maintaining the proper environment, selecting the right plants, and making the most of this unique growing space. What Is a Greenhouse? They are permanent structures with a metal frame and glass or rigid plastic panels. If you’re part of the gardening world, you’ve probably heard people throw around terms like greenhouse, hoop house, high tunnel, and cold frame to refer to protected growing spaces. Since people use these terms so loosely, it can be challenging to determine if they all mean the same thing or if each one has a distinctive definition. While I’m not here to manage how you use these terms, knowing the exact definitions of each structure can be helpful. A greenhouse is typically a permanent or semi-permanent structure designed to stay in the same place for years. It’s often constructed of a metal frame and glass or rigid plastic panels, and the structure is often set on a solid foundation. Although it’s not a requirement, many greenhouses contain heating and/or automated ventilation systems. High tunnels and hoop houses are semi-permanent structures that are easy to move. They consist of large metal hoops covered with a UV-resistant plastic layer. Although some high tunnels have heating and ventilation systems, most do not. To manage temperature and ventilation, you can raise and lower the plastic sides of the tunnel. Cold frames are small, season-extension structures that can take many shapes and forms. They typically cover a single garden bed and require manual ventilation to control temperature and moisture. Although some of the following beginner tips apply to all of these structures, I’ve written them with greenhouses in mind. Establish Your Desired Use If you plan to use your greenhouse solely for seed starting, an eight-foot by eight-foot structure will work just fine. Before buying and growing in a greenhouse, consider how you will use it. Do you envision it as a seed-starting space, a place to overwinter your cold-sensitive lemon trees, or a spot where you can grow tomatoes early in the season? As long as you set up the space appropriately, it’s okay to use your greenhouse for multiple purposes. Determining how you will use your greenhouse will help you select the proper structure and build it appropriately. For example, if you plan to use it solely for seed starting, an eight-foot by eight-foot structure will work just fine. Since you won’t be growing any larger plants, you’ll have space to build a potting bench, tables for seedlings, and shelves for storing pots and soil mix. Since you’ll regularly water seedling trays, consider covering dirt floors with gravel or landscape fabric to avoid soil splash and weed growth. However, if you mainly want to use the space to overwinter cold-sensitive plants like citrus, ginger, and figs, you’ll probably want a different layout. You’ll need open areas where tall plants can expand and an opening that allows you to move them in and out of the greenhouse easily. And if you want to grow plants in the ground, you’ll want an entirely different setup! Rather than building a concrete or gravel floor, you’ll want to develop rich soil or build raised beds. You’ll also want to consider irrigation systems and ensure pathways are large enough to accommodate harvest baskets or bins. The moral of the story? Think about how you plan to use your greenhouse before filling it with plants so you can avoid common beginner mistakes. Designing a proper layout and systems ahead of time can save you countless headaches down the road. Pay Attention to Moisture The easiest way to control humidity is to use vents and fans. Since greenhouses are closed structures, humidity is a major concern. While it’s possible for the humidity to get too low in a greenhouse, growers usually face the opposite problem. Irrigation and plant transpiration can lead to moisture buildup in closed greenhouses. This high humidity means plants are more likely to develop fungal diseases like powdery mildew, downy mildew, and gray mold. Therefore, your goal is to keep the humidity at moderate to low levels. The easiest way to control humidity is to use vents and fans. They push out humid air and draw in dry air. Some greenhouses utilize sensors and automated systems to open vents and turn on fans when the greenhouse reaches a specific humidity level. However, you can manually open vents and turn on fans to decrease air moisture. Another option is adding a dehumidifier to your greenhouse. However, this won’t add a beneficial increase in airflow like fans and vents. If your greenhouse consistently has consistently high humidity, consider your irrigation practices. Watering your plants more than necessary will increase the air moisture levels. Plus, constantly moist soil will increase the likelihood of pests like fungus gnats. Regularly Scout for Pests Most pests experience increased reproduction rates in warm conditions. Since greenhouses are closed structures removed from the outside world, greenhouse-grown plants often face different pest pressures than their outdoor-grown counterparts. There are a few main reasons for these differences.  Absence of natural predators: Since greenhouses are mostly closed off from the outside world, natural predators like ladybugs, green lacewings, and hoverflies have difficulty entering. Therefore, the pests they feed on can quickly multiply. You can purchase and release natural predators, but be aware the predators will die or fly off when they run out of their food source. Favorable environment: Most pests experience increased reproduction rates in warm conditions. That means a few pests can quickly evolve into an outbreak. So, even if aphids or mealybugs aren’t a big deal in your cold garden in the late fall or winter, they can cause serious harm in the warm greenhouse. Closed from outdoors: Since your greenhouse is closed to the outdoors, the pests rarely escape. Instead, they continue to reproduce and feed on your greenhouse plants. One way to prevent pest damage is to regularly scout your greenhouse for unwelcome critters. Set aside 15 minutes each week to thoroughly inspect your plants. Turn over leaves and check the base of the plants near the soil. Note any insects and their numbers. If you’re not sure what the insects are, spend time figuring it out! Remember, not all insects are bad for your plants. Start by browsing through this list of common pests and common beneficial insects. Once you determine you’re dealing with a pest, you can take appropriate control measures. Removing the pests may be as simple as wiping the pests of your plants. Use a soapy rag and continuing to monitor their numbers. Avoid Sudden Swings in Temperature A combination of heaters, vents, and fans can help you maintain a relatively steady temperature. One major benefit of growing indoors is the ability to control and regulate temperature. With the help of a heater or a sunny day, the air inside your greenhouse can be 70°F (21°C), even if it’s below freezing outside. And if you’re not careful, the same greenhouse can reach over 100°F (38°C)! While you may be tempted to allow hot days to offset cold nights, you should avoid sudden temperature changes. It’s okay if the temperature is warmer during the day and cooler at night, but you shouldn’t see a swing of 50 degrees (10°C). A better option is maintaining a relatively steady temperature throughout the day and night. A combination of heaters, vents, and fans can help you accomplish this. Once the temperature reaches above 70 or 80°F (21-27°C) during the day, open vents and turn on fans to decrease the temperature. You can also use heaters during the night and program them to turn on when the temperature hits 50°F (10°C) or 40°F (4°C). When setting the temperature, remember that each plant has an ideal temperature range. Brassica and lettuce seedlings don’t mind temperatures near freezing, but many tropical plants experience stress when the temperature dips below 50°F (10°C). Select Proper Varieties Cucumbers are well-suited for greenhouses because they produce fruit without pollination. If you’re growing in the ground in your greenhouse, pay attention to the varieties you select. This applies whether you’re growing tomatoes in the spring, lettuce in the winter, or citrus year-round. Since growers often plant vegetables like tomatoes and cucumbers in protected culture, plant breeders have created varieties that thrive in these growing conditions. For example, there are cucumber varieties well-suited for greenhouses because they produce fruit without pollination. Since greenhouse tomato plants remain dry but are often grown in high humidity, resistance to leaf mold and gray mold is more important than resistance to early blight. If you plan to grow greens like lettuce, kale, and spinach throughout the winter, you should also look for well-suited varieties. While you can try growing any variety in your protected structure, cultivars resistant to common greenhouse diseases, such as downy mildew, are more likely to perform well. Avoid Wet Leaves Water potted plants near the base of the plant to avoid wet foliage and soil splash. Since wet leaves can lead to fungal diseases, it’s best to keep plant foliage dry. This is especially important in a greenhouse since airflow is often limited, and disease can spread quickly in the confined space. Water potted plants near the base of the plant to avoid wet foliage and soil splash.A watering can, hose, or drip irrigation system can all provide proper irrigation. You can also choose to bottom water potted plants and trays filled with seedlings. If you’re growing plants in the grow, opt for drip irrigation instead of overhead watering. Drip emitters apply water directly to the soil and keep foliage dry. If you choose to water seedlings with a hose, ensure you provide excellent airflow to dry the foliage and prevent disease. I recommend running fans near your seedlings, especially if you utilize overhead irrigation. Keep a Journal You can use the information in your journal to fine-tune your practices and continually improve your garden. Although beginners think they’ll never forget that intense aphid outbreak or that impressive tomato harvest, it’s easy to forget greenhouse milestones, let alone minuscule details. That’s why I recommend using a journal to keep track of planting dates, temperatures, pest problems, and more. If you notice some of your plants show signs of disease or cold-damaged, you can look back on your notes to try to determine a cause. For example, you may realize you brought disease into your greenhouse when you moved outdoor plants inside. You can also look back on your journal year after year to remember planting dates, first harvest dates, and when seedlings were large enough to transplant outdoors. Then, you can use this information to fine-tune your greenhouse practices and advance from a beginner to an expert indoor grower. Source link

[alexha2210]

Almost every gardener I know wishes for a greenhouse. Maybe you dream of moving your seed-starting operation out of your spare bedroom and into an outdoor space. Or you may want to experiment with growing citrus trees that are too big for your cozy yet tiny home. I get it—whether you’re a beginner or veteran grower, a greenhouse is an exciting addition to your garden! However, it also presents new challenges and a sometimes steep learning curve. If you want to grow healthy plants in your greenhouse this year, you must know how to manage this space properly. I’ll cover a few essential tips involving maintaining the proper environment, selecting the right plants, and making the most of this unique growing space. What Is a Greenhouse? They are permanent structures with a metal frame and glass or rigid plastic panels. If you’re part of the gardening world, you’ve probably heard people throw around terms like greenhouse, hoop house, high tunnel, and cold frame to refer to protected growing spaces. Since people use these terms so loosely, it can be challenging to determine if they all mean the same thing or if each one has a distinctive definition. While I’m not here to manage how you use these terms, knowing the exact definitions of each structure can be helpful. A greenhouse is typically a permanent or semi-permanent structure designed to stay in the same place for years. It’s often constructed of a metal frame and glass or rigid plastic panels, and the structure is often set on a solid foundation. Although it’s not a requirement, many greenhouses contain heating and/or automated ventilation systems. High tunnels and hoop houses are semi-permanent structures that are easy to move. They consist of large metal hoops covered with a UV-resistant plastic layer. Although some high tunnels have heating and ventilation systems, most do not. To manage temperature and ventilation, you can raise and lower the plastic sides of the tunnel. Cold frames are small, season-extension structures that can take many shapes and forms. They typically cover a single garden bed and require manual ventilation to control temperature and moisture. Although some of the following beginner tips apply to all of these structures, I’ve written them with greenhouses in mind. Establish Your Desired Use If you plan to use your greenhouse solely for seed starting, an eight-foot by eight-foot structure will work just fine. Before buying and growing in a greenhouse, consider how you will use it. Do you envision it as a seed-starting space, a place to overwinter your cold-sensitive lemon trees, or a spot where you can grow tomatoes early in the season? As long as you set up the space appropriately, it’s okay to use your greenhouse for multiple purposes. Determining how you will use your greenhouse will help you select the proper structure and build it appropriately. For example, if you plan to use it solely for seed starting, an eight-foot by eight-foot structure will work just fine. Since you won’t be growing any larger plants, you’ll have space to build a potting bench, tables for seedlings, and shelves for storing pots and soil mix. Since you’ll regularly water seedling trays, consider covering dirt floors with gravel or landscape fabric to avoid soil splash and weed growth. However, if you mainly want to use the space to overwinter cold-sensitive plants like citrus, ginger, and figs, you’ll probably want a different layout. You’ll need open areas where tall plants can expand and an opening that allows you to move them in and out of the greenhouse easily. And if you want to grow plants in the ground, you’ll want an entirely different setup! Rather than building a concrete or gravel floor, you’ll want to develop rich soil or build raised beds. You’ll also want to consider irrigation systems and ensure pathways are large enough to accommodate harvest baskets or bins. The moral of the story? Think about how you plan to use your greenhouse before filling it with plants so you can avoid common beginner mistakes. Designing a proper layout and systems ahead of time can save you countless headaches down the road. Pay Attention to Moisture The easiest way to control humidity is to use vents and fans. Since greenhouses are closed structures, humidity is a major concern. While it’s possible for the humidity to get too low in a greenhouse, growers usually face the opposite problem. Irrigation and plant transpiration can lead to moisture buildup in closed greenhouses. This high humidity means plants are more likely to develop fungal diseases like powdery mildew, downy mildew, and gray mold. Therefore, your goal is to keep the humidity at moderate to low levels. The easiest way to control humidity is to use vents and fans. They push out humid air and draw in dry air. Some greenhouses utilize sensors and automated systems to open vents and turn on fans when the greenhouse reaches a specific humidity level. However, you can manually open vents and turn on fans to decrease air moisture. Another option is adding a dehumidifier to your greenhouse. However, this won’t add a beneficial increase in airflow like fans and vents. If your greenhouse consistently has consistently high humidity, consider your irrigation practices. Watering your plants more than necessary will increase the air moisture levels. Plus, constantly moist soil will increase the likelihood of pests like fungus gnats. Regularly Scout for Pests Most pests experience increased reproduction rates in warm conditions. Since greenhouses are closed structures removed from the outside world, greenhouse-grown plants often face different pest pressures than their outdoor-grown counterparts. There are a few main reasons for these differences.  Absence of natural predators: Since greenhouses are mostly closed off from the outside world, natural predators like ladybugs, green lacewings, and hoverflies have difficulty entering. Therefore, the pests they feed on can quickly multiply. You can purchase and release natural predators, but be aware the predators will die or fly off when they run out of their food source. Favorable environment: Most pests experience increased reproduction rates in warm conditions. That means a few pests can quickly evolve into an outbreak. So, even if aphids or mealybugs aren’t a big deal in your cold garden in the late fall or winter, they can cause serious harm in the warm greenhouse. Closed from outdoors: Since your greenhouse is closed to the outdoors, the pests rarely escape. Instead, they continue to reproduce and feed on your greenhouse plants. One way to prevent pest damage is to regularly scout your greenhouse for unwelcome critters. Set aside 15 minutes each week to thoroughly inspect your plants. Turn over leaves and check the base of the plants near the soil. Note any insects and their numbers. If you’re not sure what the insects are, spend time figuring it out! Remember, not all insects are bad for your plants. Start by browsing through this list of common pests and common beneficial insects. Once you determine you’re dealing with a pest, you can take appropriate control measures. Removing the pests may be as simple as wiping the pests of your plants. Use a soapy rag and continuing to monitor their numbers. Avoid Sudden Swings in Temperature A combination of heaters, vents, and fans can help you maintain a relatively steady temperature. One major benefit of growing indoors is the ability to control and regulate temperature. With the help of a heater or a sunny day, the air inside your greenhouse can be 70°F (21°C), even if it’s below freezing outside. And if you’re not careful, the same greenhouse can reach over 100°F (38°C)! While you may be tempted to allow hot days to offset cold nights, you should avoid sudden temperature changes. It’s okay if the temperature is warmer during the day and cooler at night, but you shouldn’t see a swing of 50 degrees (10°C). A better option is maintaining a relatively steady temperature throughout the day and night. A combination of heaters, vents, and fans can help you accomplish this. Once the temperature reaches above 70 or 80°F (21-27°C) during the day, open vents and turn on fans to decrease the temperature. You can also use heaters during the night and program them to turn on when the temperature hits 50°F (10°C) or 40°F (4°C). When setting the temperature, remember that each plant has an ideal temperature range. Brassica and lettuce seedlings don’t mind temperatures near freezing, but many tropical plants experience stress when the temperature dips below 50°F (10°C). Select Proper Varieties Cucumbers are well-suited for greenhouses because they produce fruit without pollination. If you’re growing in the ground in your greenhouse, pay attention to the varieties you select. This applies whether you’re growing tomatoes in the spring, lettuce in the winter, or citrus year-round. Since growers often plant vegetables like tomatoes and cucumbers in protected culture, plant breeders have created varieties that thrive in these growing conditions. For example, there are cucumber varieties well-suited for greenhouses because they produce fruit without pollination. Since greenhouse tomato plants remain dry but are often grown in high humidity, resistance to leaf mold and gray mold is more important than resistance to early blight. If you plan to grow greens like lettuce, kale, and spinach throughout the winter, you should also look for well-suited varieties. While you can try growing any variety in your protected structure, cultivars resistant to common greenhouse diseases, such as downy mildew, are more likely to perform well. Avoid Wet Leaves Water potted plants near the base of the plant to avoid wet foliage and soil splash. Since wet leaves can lead to fungal diseases, it’s best to keep plant foliage dry. This is especially important in a greenhouse since airflow is often limited, and disease can spread quickly in the confined space. Water potted plants near the base of the plant to avoid wet foliage and soil splash.A watering can, hose, or drip irrigation system can all provide proper irrigation. You can also choose to bottom water potted plants and trays filled with seedlings. If you’re growing plants in the grow, opt for drip irrigation instead of overhead watering. Drip emitters apply water directly to the soil and keep foliage dry. If you choose to water seedlings with a hose, ensure you provide excellent airflow to dry the foliage and prevent disease. I recommend running fans near your seedlings, especially if you utilize overhead irrigation. Keep a Journal You can use the information in your journal to fine-tune your practices and continually improve your garden. Although beginners think they’ll never forget that intense aphid outbreak or that impressive tomato harvest, it’s easy to forget greenhouse milestones, let alone minuscule details. That’s why I recommend using a journal to keep track of planting dates, temperatures, pest problems, and more. If you notice some of your plants show signs of disease or cold-damaged, you can look back on your notes to try to determine a cause. For example, you may realize you brought disease into your greenhouse when you moved outdoor plants inside. You can also look back on your journal year after year to remember planting dates, first harvest dates, and when seedlings were large enough to transplant outdoors. Then, you can use this information to fine-tune your greenhouse practices and advance from a beginner to an expert indoor grower. Source link

[angusstory]

Almost every gardener I know wishes for a greenhouse. Maybe you dream of moving your seed-starting operation out of your spare bedroom and into an outdoor space. Or you may want to experiment with growing citrus trees that are too big for your cozy yet tiny home. I get it—whether you’re a beginner or veteran grower, a greenhouse is an exciting addition to your garden! However, it also presents new challenges and a sometimes steep learning curve. If you want to grow healthy plants in your greenhouse this year, you must know how to manage this space properly. I’ll cover a few essential tips involving maintaining the proper environment, selecting the right plants, and making the most of this unique growing space. What Is a Greenhouse? They are permanent structures with a metal frame and glass or rigid plastic panels. If you’re part of the gardening world, you’ve probably heard people throw around terms like greenhouse, hoop house, high tunnel, and cold frame to refer to protected growing spaces. Since people use these terms so loosely, it can be challenging to determine if they all mean the same thing or if each one has a distinctive definition. While I’m not here to manage how you use these terms, knowing the exact definitions of each structure can be helpful. A greenhouse is typically a permanent or semi-permanent structure designed to stay in the same place for years. It’s often constructed of a metal frame and glass or rigid plastic panels, and the structure is often set on a solid foundation. Although it’s not a requirement, many greenhouses contain heating and/or automated ventilation systems. High tunnels and hoop houses are semi-permanent structures that are easy to move. They consist of large metal hoops covered with a UV-resistant plastic layer. Although some high tunnels have heating and ventilation systems, most do not. To manage temperature and ventilation, you can raise and lower the plastic sides of the tunnel. Cold frames are small, season-extension structures that can take many shapes and forms. They typically cover a single garden bed and require manual ventilation to control temperature and moisture. Although some of the following beginner tips apply to all of these structures, I’ve written them with greenhouses in mind. Establish Your Desired Use If you plan to use your greenhouse solely for seed starting, an eight-foot by eight-foot structure will work just fine. Before buying and growing in a greenhouse, consider how you will use it. Do you envision it as a seed-starting space, a place to overwinter your cold-sensitive lemon trees, or a spot where you can grow tomatoes early in the season? As long as you set up the space appropriately, it’s okay to use your greenhouse for multiple purposes. Determining how you will use your greenhouse will help you select the proper structure and build it appropriately. For example, if you plan to use it solely for seed starting, an eight-foot by eight-foot structure will work just fine. Since you won’t be growing any larger plants, you’ll have space to build a potting bench, tables for seedlings, and shelves for storing pots and soil mix. Since you’ll regularly water seedling trays, consider covering dirt floors with gravel or landscape fabric to avoid soil splash and weed growth. However, if you mainly want to use the space to overwinter cold-sensitive plants like citrus, ginger, and figs, you’ll probably want a different layout. You’ll need open areas where tall plants can expand and an opening that allows you to move them in and out of the greenhouse easily. And if you want to grow plants in the ground, you’ll want an entirely different setup! Rather than building a concrete or gravel floor, you’ll want to develop rich soil or build raised beds. You’ll also want to consider irrigation systems and ensure pathways are large enough to accommodate harvest baskets or bins. The moral of the story? Think about how you plan to use your greenhouse before filling it with plants so you can avoid common beginner mistakes. Designing a proper layout and systems ahead of time can save you countless headaches down the road. Pay Attention to Moisture The easiest way to control humidity is to use vents and fans. Since greenhouses are closed structures, humidity is a major concern. While it’s possible for the humidity to get too low in a greenhouse, growers usually face the opposite problem. Irrigation and plant transpiration can lead to moisture buildup in closed greenhouses. This high humidity means plants are more likely to develop fungal diseases like powdery mildew, downy mildew, and gray mold. Therefore, your goal is to keep the humidity at moderate to low levels. The easiest way to control humidity is to use vents and fans. They push out humid air and draw in dry air. Some greenhouses utilize sensors and automated systems to open vents and turn on fans when the greenhouse reaches a specific humidity level. However, you can manually open vents and turn on fans to decrease air moisture. Another option is adding a dehumidifier to your greenhouse. However, this won’t add a beneficial increase in airflow like fans and vents. If your greenhouse consistently has consistently high humidity, consider your irrigation practices. Watering your plants more than necessary will increase the air moisture levels. Plus, constantly moist soil will increase the likelihood of pests like fungus gnats. Regularly Scout for Pests Most pests experience increased reproduction rates in warm conditions. Since greenhouses are closed structures removed from the outside world, greenhouse-grown plants often face different pest pressures than their outdoor-grown counterparts. There are a few main reasons for these differences.  Absence of natural predators: Since greenhouses are mostly closed off from the outside world, natural predators like ladybugs, green lacewings, and hoverflies have difficulty entering. Therefore, the pests they feed on can quickly multiply. You can purchase and release natural predators, but be aware the predators will die or fly off when they run out of their food source. Favorable environment: Most pests experience increased reproduction rates in warm conditions. That means a few pests can quickly evolve into an outbreak. So, even if aphids or mealybugs aren’t a big deal in your cold garden in the late fall or winter, they can cause serious harm in the warm greenhouse. Closed from outdoors: Since your greenhouse is closed to the outdoors, the pests rarely escape. Instead, they continue to reproduce and feed on your greenhouse plants. One way to prevent pest damage is to regularly scout your greenhouse for unwelcome critters. Set aside 15 minutes each week to thoroughly inspect your plants. Turn over leaves and check the base of the plants near the soil. Note any insects and their numbers. If you’re not sure what the insects are, spend time figuring it out! Remember, not all insects are bad for your plants. Start by browsing through this list of common pests and common beneficial insects. Once you determine you’re dealing with a pest, you can take appropriate control measures. Removing the pests may be as simple as wiping the pests of your plants. Use a soapy rag and continuing to monitor their numbers. Avoid Sudden Swings in Temperature A combination of heaters, vents, and fans can help you maintain a relatively steady temperature. One major benefit of growing indoors is the ability to control and regulate temperature. With the help of a heater or a sunny day, the air inside your greenhouse can be 70°F (21°C), even if it’s below freezing outside. And if you’re not careful, the same greenhouse can reach over 100°F (38°C)! While you may be tempted to allow hot days to offset cold nights, you should avoid sudden temperature changes. It’s okay if the temperature is warmer during the day and cooler at night, but you shouldn’t see a swing of 50 degrees (10°C). A better option is maintaining a relatively steady temperature throughout the day and night. A combination of heaters, vents, and fans can help you accomplish this. Once the temperature reaches above 70 or 80°F (21-27°C) during the day, open vents and turn on fans to decrease the temperature. You can also use heaters during the night and program them to turn on when the temperature hits 50°F (10°C) or 40°F (4°C). When setting the temperature, remember that each plant has an ideal temperature range. Brassica and lettuce seedlings don’t mind temperatures near freezing, but many tropical plants experience stress when the temperature dips below 50°F (10°C). Select Proper Varieties Cucumbers are well-suited for greenhouses because they produce fruit without pollination. If you’re growing in the ground in your greenhouse, pay attention to the varieties you select. This applies whether you’re growing tomatoes in the spring, lettuce in the winter, or citrus year-round. Since growers often plant vegetables like tomatoes and cucumbers in protected culture, plant breeders have created varieties that thrive in these growing conditions. For example, there are cucumber varieties well-suited for greenhouses because they produce fruit without pollination. Since greenhouse tomato plants remain dry but are often grown in high humidity, resistance to leaf mold and gray mold is more important than resistance to early blight. If you plan to grow greens like lettuce, kale, and spinach throughout the winter, you should also look for well-suited varieties. While you can try growing any variety in your protected structure, cultivars resistant to common greenhouse diseases, such as downy mildew, are more likely to perform well. Avoid Wet Leaves Water potted plants near the base of the plant to avoid wet foliage and soil splash. Since wet leaves can lead to fungal diseases, it’s best to keep plant foliage dry. This is especially important in a greenhouse since airflow is often limited, and disease can spread quickly in the confined space. Water potted plants near the base of the plant to avoid wet foliage and soil splash.A watering can, hose, or drip irrigation system can all provide proper irrigation. You can also choose to bottom water potted plants and trays filled with seedlings. If you’re growing plants in the grow, opt for drip irrigation instead of overhead watering. Drip emitters apply water directly to the soil and keep foliage dry. If you choose to water seedlings with a hose, ensure you provide excellent airflow to dry the foliage and prevent disease. I recommend running fans near your seedlings, especially if you utilize overhead irrigation. Keep a Journal You can use the information in your journal to fine-tune your practices and continually improve your garden. Although beginners think they’ll never forget that intense aphid outbreak or that impressive tomato harvest, it’s easy to forget greenhouse milestones, let alone minuscule details. That’s why I recommend using a journal to keep track of planting dates, temperatures, pest problems, and more. If you notice some of your plants show signs of disease or cold-damaged, you can look back on your notes to try to determine a cause. For example, you may realize you brought disease into your greenhouse when you moved outdoor plants inside. You can also look back on your journal year after year to remember planting dates, first harvest dates, and when seedlings were large enough to transplant outdoors. Then, you can use this information to fine-tune your greenhouse practices and advance from a beginner to an expert indoor grower. Source link

[tumibaba]

Almost every gardener I know wishes for a greenhouse. Maybe you dream of moving your seed-starting operation out of your spare bedroom and into an outdoor space. Or you may want to experiment with growing citrus trees that are too big for your cozy yet tiny home. I get it—whether you’re a beginner or veteran grower, a greenhouse is an exciting addition to your garden! However, it also presents new challenges and a sometimes steep learning curve. If you want to grow healthy plants in your greenhouse this year, you must know how to manage this space properly. I’ll cover a few essential tips involving maintaining the proper environment, selecting the right plants, and making the most of this unique growing space. What Is a Greenhouse? They are permanent structures with a metal frame and glass or rigid plastic panels. If you’re part of the gardening world, you’ve probably heard people throw around terms like greenhouse, hoop house, high tunnel, and cold frame to refer to protected growing spaces. Since people use these terms so loosely, it can be challenging to determine if they all mean the same thing or if each one has a distinctive definition. While I’m not here to manage how you use these terms, knowing the exact definitions of each structure can be helpful. A greenhouse is typically a permanent or semi-permanent structure designed to stay in the same place for years. It’s often constructed of a metal frame and glass or rigid plastic panels, and the structure is often set on a solid foundation. Although it’s not a requirement, many greenhouses contain heating and/or automated ventilation systems. High tunnels and hoop houses are semi-permanent structures that are easy to move. They consist of large metal hoops covered with a UV-resistant plastic layer. Although some high tunnels have heating and ventilation systems, most do not. To manage temperature and ventilation, you can raise and lower the plastic sides of the tunnel. Cold frames are small, season-extension structures that can take many shapes and forms. They typically cover a single garden bed and require manual ventilation to control temperature and moisture. Although some of the following beginner tips apply to all of these structures, I’ve written them with greenhouses in mind. Establish Your Desired Use If you plan to use your greenhouse solely for seed starting, an eight-foot by eight-foot structure will work just fine. Before buying and growing in a greenhouse, consider how you will use it. Do you envision it as a seed-starting space, a place to overwinter your cold-sensitive lemon trees, or a spot where you can grow tomatoes early in the season? As long as you set up the space appropriately, it’s okay to use your greenhouse for multiple purposes. Determining how you will use your greenhouse will help you select the proper structure and build it appropriately. For example, if you plan to use it solely for seed starting, an eight-foot by eight-foot structure will work just fine. Since you won’t be growing any larger plants, you’ll have space to build a potting bench, tables for seedlings, and shelves for storing pots and soil mix. Since you’ll regularly water seedling trays, consider covering dirt floors with gravel or landscape fabric to avoid soil splash and weed growth. However, if you mainly want to use the space to overwinter cold-sensitive plants like citrus, ginger, and figs, you’ll probably want a different layout. You’ll need open areas where tall plants can expand and an opening that allows you to move them in and out of the greenhouse easily. And if you want to grow plants in the ground, you’ll want an entirely different setup! Rather than building a concrete or gravel floor, you’ll want to develop rich soil or build raised beds. You’ll also want to consider irrigation systems and ensure pathways are large enough to accommodate harvest baskets or bins. The moral of the story? Think about how you plan to use your greenhouse before filling it with plants so you can avoid common beginner mistakes. Designing a proper layout and systems ahead of time can save you countless headaches down the road. Pay Attention to Moisture The easiest way to control humidity is to use vents and fans. Since greenhouses are closed structures, humidity is a major concern. While it’s possible for the humidity to get too low in a greenhouse, growers usually face the opposite problem. Irrigation and plant transpiration can lead to moisture buildup in closed greenhouses. This high humidity means plants are more likely to develop fungal diseases like powdery mildew, downy mildew, and gray mold. Therefore, your goal is to keep the humidity at moderate to low levels. The easiest way to control humidity is to use vents and fans. They push out humid air and draw in dry air. Some greenhouses utilize sensors and automated systems to open vents and turn on fans when the greenhouse reaches a specific humidity level. However, you can manually open vents and turn on fans to decrease air moisture. Another option is adding a dehumidifier to your greenhouse. However, this won’t add a beneficial increase in airflow like fans and vents. If your greenhouse consistently has consistently high humidity, consider your irrigation practices. Watering your plants more than necessary will increase the air moisture levels. Plus, constantly moist soil will increase the likelihood of pests like fungus gnats. Regularly Scout for Pests Most pests experience increased reproduction rates in warm conditions. Since greenhouses are closed structures removed from the outside world, greenhouse-grown plants often face different pest pressures than their outdoor-grown counterparts. There are a few main reasons for these differences.  Absence of natural predators: Since greenhouses are mostly closed off from the outside world, natural predators like ladybugs, green lacewings, and hoverflies have difficulty entering. Therefore, the pests they feed on can quickly multiply. You can purchase and release natural predators, but be aware the predators will die or fly off when they run out of their food source. Favorable environment: Most pests experience increased reproduction rates in warm conditions. That means a few pests can quickly evolve into an outbreak. So, even if aphids or mealybugs aren’t a big deal in your cold garden in the late fall or winter, they can cause serious harm in the warm greenhouse. Closed from outdoors: Since your greenhouse is closed to the outdoors, the pests rarely escape. Instead, they continue to reproduce and feed on your greenhouse plants. One way to prevent pest damage is to regularly scout your greenhouse for unwelcome critters. Set aside 15 minutes each week to thoroughly inspect your plants. Turn over leaves and check the base of the plants near the soil. Note any insects and their numbers. If you’re not sure what the insects are, spend time figuring it out! Remember, not all insects are bad for your plants. Start by browsing through this list of common pests and common beneficial insects. Once you determine you’re dealing with a pest, you can take appropriate control measures. Removing the pests may be as simple as wiping the pests of your plants. Use a soapy rag and continuing to monitor their numbers. Avoid Sudden Swings in Temperature A combination of heaters, vents, and fans can help you maintain a relatively steady temperature. One major benefit of growing indoors is the ability to control and regulate temperature. With the help of a heater or a sunny day, the air inside your greenhouse can be 70°F (21°C), even if it’s below freezing outside. And if you’re not careful, the same greenhouse can reach over 100°F (38°C)! While you may be tempted to allow hot days to offset cold nights, you should avoid sudden temperature changes. It’s okay if the temperature is warmer during the day and cooler at night, but you shouldn’t see a swing of 50 degrees (10°C). A better option is maintaining a relatively steady temperature throughout the day and night. A combination of heaters, vents, and fans can help you accomplish this. Once the temperature reaches above 70 or 80°F (21-27°C) during the day, open vents and turn on fans to decrease the temperature. You can also use heaters during the night and program them to turn on when the temperature hits 50°F (10°C) or 40°F (4°C). When setting the temperature, remember that each plant has an ideal temperature range. Brassica and lettuce seedlings don’t mind temperatures near freezing, but many tropical plants experience stress when the temperature dips below 50°F (10°C). Select Proper Varieties Cucumbers are well-suited for greenhouses because they produce fruit without pollination. If you’re growing in the ground in your greenhouse, pay attention to the varieties you select. This applies whether you’re growing tomatoes in the spring, lettuce in the winter, or citrus year-round. Since growers often plant vegetables like tomatoes and cucumbers in protected culture, plant breeders have created varieties that thrive in these growing conditions. For example, there are cucumber varieties well-suited for greenhouses because they produce fruit without pollination. Since greenhouse tomato plants remain dry but are often grown in high humidity, resistance to leaf mold and gray mold is more important than resistance to early blight. If you plan to grow greens like lettuce, kale, and spinach throughout the winter, you should also look for well-suited varieties. While you can try growing any variety in your protected structure, cultivars resistant to common greenhouse diseases, such as downy mildew, are more likely to perform well. Avoid Wet Leaves Water potted plants near the base of the plant to avoid wet foliage and soil splash. Since wet leaves can lead to fungal diseases, it’s best to keep plant foliage dry. This is especially important in a greenhouse since airflow is often limited, and disease can spread quickly in the confined space. Water potted plants near the base of the plant to avoid wet foliage and soil splash.A watering can, hose, or drip irrigation system can all provide proper irrigation. You can also choose to bottom water potted plants and trays filled with seedlings. If you’re growing plants in the grow, opt for drip irrigation instead of overhead watering. Drip emitters apply water directly to the soil and keep foliage dry. If you choose to water seedlings with a hose, ensure you provide excellent airflow to dry the foliage and prevent disease. I recommend running fans near your seedlings, especially if you utilize overhead irrigation. Keep a Journal You can use the information in your journal to fine-tune your practices and continually improve your garden. Although beginners think they’ll never forget that intense aphid outbreak or that impressive tomato harvest, it’s easy to forget greenhouse milestones, let alone minuscule details. That’s why I recommend using a journal to keep track of planting dates, temperatures, pest problems, and more. If you notice some of your plants show signs of disease or cold-damaged, you can look back on your notes to try to determine a cause. For example, you may realize you brought disease into your greenhouse when you moved outdoor plants inside. You can also look back on your journal year after year to remember planting dates, first harvest dates, and when seedlings were large enough to transplant outdoors. Then, you can use this information to fine-tune your greenhouse practices and advance from a beginner to an expert indoor grower. Source link

[romaleen]

Almost every gardener I know wishes for a greenhouse. Maybe you dream of moving your seed-starting operation out of your spare bedroom and into an outdoor space. Or you may want to experiment with growing citrus trees that are too big for your cozy yet tiny home. I get it—whether you’re a beginner or veteran grower, a greenhouse is an exciting addition to your garden! However, it also presents new challenges and a sometimes steep learning curve. If you want to grow healthy plants in your greenhouse this year, you must know how to manage this space properly. I’ll cover a few essential tips involving maintaining the proper environment, selecting the right plants, and making the most of this unique growing space. What Is a Greenhouse? They are permanent structures with a metal frame and glass or rigid plastic panels. If you’re part of the gardening world, you’ve probably heard people throw around terms like greenhouse, hoop house, high tunnel, and cold frame to refer to protected growing spaces. Since people use these terms so loosely, it can be challenging to determine if they all mean the same thing or if each one has a distinctive definition. While I’m not here to manage how you use these terms, knowing the exact definitions of each structure can be helpful. A greenhouse is typically a permanent or semi-permanent structure designed to stay in the same place for years. It’s often constructed of a metal frame and glass or rigid plastic panels, and the structure is often set on a solid foundation. Although it’s not a requirement, many greenhouses contain heating and/or automated ventilation systems. High tunnels and hoop houses are semi-permanent structures that are easy to move. They consist of large metal hoops covered with a UV-resistant plastic layer. Although some high tunnels have heating and ventilation systems, most do not. To manage temperature and ventilation, you can raise and lower the plastic sides of the tunnel. Cold frames are small, season-extension structures that can take many shapes and forms. They typically cover a single garden bed and require manual ventilation to control temperature and moisture. Although some of the following beginner tips apply to all of these structures, I’ve written them with greenhouses in mind. Establish Your Desired Use If you plan to use your greenhouse solely for seed starting, an eight-foot by eight-foot structure will work just fine. Before buying and growing in a greenhouse, consider how you will use it. Do you envision it as a seed-starting space, a place to overwinter your cold-sensitive lemon trees, or a spot where you can grow tomatoes early in the season? As long as you set up the space appropriately, it’s okay to use your greenhouse for multiple purposes. Determining how you will use your greenhouse will help you select the proper structure and build it appropriately. For example, if you plan to use it solely for seed starting, an eight-foot by eight-foot structure will work just fine. Since you won’t be growing any larger plants, you’ll have space to build a potting bench, tables for seedlings, and shelves for storing pots and soil mix. Since you’ll regularly water seedling trays, consider covering dirt floors with gravel or landscape fabric to avoid soil splash and weed growth. However, if you mainly want to use the space to overwinter cold-sensitive plants like citrus, ginger, and figs, you’ll probably want a different layout. You’ll need open areas where tall plants can expand and an opening that allows you to move them in and out of the greenhouse easily. And if you want to grow plants in the ground, you’ll want an entirely different setup! Rather than building a concrete or gravel floor, you’ll want to develop rich soil or build raised beds. You’ll also want to consider irrigation systems and ensure pathways are large enough to accommodate harvest baskets or bins. The moral of the story? Think about how you plan to use your greenhouse before filling it with plants so you can avoid common beginner mistakes. Designing a proper layout and systems ahead of time can save you countless headaches down the road. Pay Attention to Moisture The easiest way to control humidity is to use vents and fans. Since greenhouses are closed structures, humidity is a major concern. While it’s possible for the humidity to get too low in a greenhouse, growers usually face the opposite problem. Irrigation and plant transpiration can lead to moisture buildup in closed greenhouses. This high humidity means plants are more likely to develop fungal diseases like powdery mildew, downy mildew, and gray mold. Therefore, your goal is to keep the humidity at moderate to low levels. The easiest way to control humidity is to use vents and fans. They push out humid air and draw in dry air. Some greenhouses utilize sensors and automated systems to open vents and turn on fans when the greenhouse reaches a specific humidity level. However, you can manually open vents and turn on fans to decrease air moisture. Another option is adding a dehumidifier to your greenhouse. However, this won’t add a beneficial increase in airflow like fans and vents. If your greenhouse consistently has consistently high humidity, consider your irrigation practices. Watering your plants more than necessary will increase the air moisture levels. Plus, constantly moist soil will increase the likelihood of pests like fungus gnats. Regularly Scout for Pests Most pests experience increased reproduction rates in warm conditions. Since greenhouses are closed structures removed from the outside world, greenhouse-grown plants often face different pest pressures than their outdoor-grown counterparts. There are a few main reasons for these differences.  Absence of natural predators: Since greenhouses are mostly closed off from the outside world, natural predators like ladybugs, green lacewings, and hoverflies have difficulty entering. Therefore, the pests they feed on can quickly multiply. You can purchase and release natural predators, but be aware the predators will die or fly off when they run out of their food source. Favorable environment: Most pests experience increased reproduction rates in warm conditions. That means a few pests can quickly evolve into an outbreak. So, even if aphids or mealybugs aren’t a big deal in your cold garden in the late fall or winter, they can cause serious harm in the warm greenhouse. Closed from outdoors: Since your greenhouse is closed to the outdoors, the pests rarely escape. Instead, they continue to reproduce and feed on your greenhouse plants. One way to prevent pest damage is to regularly scout your greenhouse for unwelcome critters. Set aside 15 minutes each week to thoroughly inspect your plants. Turn over leaves and check the base of the plants near the soil. Note any insects and their numbers. If you’re not sure what the insects are, spend time figuring it out! Remember, not all insects are bad for your plants. Start by browsing through this list of common pests and common beneficial insects. Once you determine you’re dealing with a pest, you can take appropriate control measures. Removing the pests may be as simple as wiping the pests of your plants. Use a soapy rag and continuing to monitor their numbers. Avoid Sudden Swings in Temperature A combination of heaters, vents, and fans can help you maintain a relatively steady temperature. One major benefit of growing indoors is the ability to control and regulate temperature. With the help of a heater or a sunny day, the air inside your greenhouse can be 70°F (21°C), even if it’s below freezing outside. And if you’re not careful, the same greenhouse can reach over 100°F (38°C)! While you may be tempted to allow hot days to offset cold nights, you should avoid sudden temperature changes. It’s okay if the temperature is warmer during the day and cooler at night, but you shouldn’t see a swing of 50 degrees (10°C). A better option is maintaining a relatively steady temperature throughout the day and night. A combination of heaters, vents, and fans can help you accomplish this. Once the temperature reaches above 70 or 80°F (21-27°C) during the day, open vents and turn on fans to decrease the temperature. You can also use heaters during the night and program them to turn on when the temperature hits 50°F (10°C) or 40°F (4°C). When setting the temperature, remember that each plant has an ideal temperature range. Brassica and lettuce seedlings don’t mind temperatures near freezing, but many tropical plants experience stress when the temperature dips below 50°F (10°C). Select Proper Varieties Cucumbers are well-suited for greenhouses because they produce fruit without pollination. If you’re growing in the ground in your greenhouse, pay attention to the varieties you select. This applies whether you’re growing tomatoes in the spring, lettuce in the winter, or citrus year-round. Since growers often plant vegetables like tomatoes and cucumbers in protected culture, plant breeders have created varieties that thrive in these growing conditions. For example, there are cucumber varieties well-suited for greenhouses because they produce fruit without pollination. Since greenhouse tomato plants remain dry but are often grown in high humidity, resistance to leaf mold and gray mold is more important than resistance to early blight. If you plan to grow greens like lettuce, kale, and spinach throughout the winter, you should also look for well-suited varieties. While you can try growing any variety in your protected structure, cultivars resistant to common greenhouse diseases, such as downy mildew, are more likely to perform well. Avoid Wet Leaves Water potted plants near the base of the plant to avoid wet foliage and soil splash. Since wet leaves can lead to fungal diseases, it’s best to keep plant foliage dry. This is especially important in a greenhouse since airflow is often limited, and disease can spread quickly in the confined space. Water potted plants near the base of the plant to avoid wet foliage and soil splash.A watering can, hose, or drip irrigation system can all provide proper irrigation. You can also choose to bottom water potted plants and trays filled with seedlings. If you’re growing plants in the grow, opt for drip irrigation instead of overhead watering. Drip emitters apply water directly to the soil and keep foliage dry. If you choose to water seedlings with a hose, ensure you provide excellent airflow to dry the foliage and prevent disease. I recommend running fans near your seedlings, especially if you utilize overhead irrigation. Keep a Journal You can use the information in your journal to fine-tune your practices and continually improve your garden. Although beginners think they’ll never forget that intense aphid outbreak or that impressive tomato harvest, it’s easy to forget greenhouse milestones, let alone minuscule details. That’s why I recommend using a journal to keep track of planting dates, temperatures, pest problems, and more. If you notice some of your plants show signs of disease or cold-damaged, you can look back on your notes to try to determine a cause. For example, you may realize you brought disease into your greenhouse when you moved outdoor plants inside. You can also look back on your journal year after year to remember planting dates, first harvest dates, and when seedlings were large enough to transplant outdoors. Then, you can use this information to fine-tune your greenhouse practices and advance from a beginner to an expert indoor grower. Source link

[monaleen101]

Almost every gardener I know wishes for a greenhouse. Maybe you dream of moving your seed-starting operation out of your spare bedroom and into an outdoor space. Or you may want to experiment with growing citrus trees that are too big for your cozy yet tiny home. I get it—whether you’re a beginner or veteran grower, a greenhouse is an exciting addition to your garden! However, it also presents new challenges and a sometimes steep learning curve. If you want to grow healthy plants in your greenhouse this year, you must know how to manage this space properly. I’ll cover a few essential tips involving maintaining the proper environment, selecting the right plants, and making the most of this unique growing space. What Is a Greenhouse? They are permanent structures with a metal frame and glass or rigid plastic panels. If you’re part of the gardening world, you’ve probably heard people throw around terms like greenhouse, hoop house, high tunnel, and cold frame to refer to protected growing spaces. Since people use these terms so loosely, it can be challenging to determine if they all mean the same thing or if each one has a distinctive definition. While I’m not here to manage how you use these terms, knowing the exact definitions of each structure can be helpful. A greenhouse is typically a permanent or semi-permanent structure designed to stay in the same place for years. It’s often constructed of a metal frame and glass or rigid plastic panels, and the structure is often set on a solid foundation. Although it’s not a requirement, many greenhouses contain heating and/or automated ventilation systems. High tunnels and hoop houses are semi-permanent structures that are easy to move. They consist of large metal hoops covered with a UV-resistant plastic layer. Although some high tunnels have heating and ventilation systems, most do not. To manage temperature and ventilation, you can raise and lower the plastic sides of the tunnel. Cold frames are small, season-extension structures that can take many shapes and forms. They typically cover a single garden bed and require manual ventilation to control temperature and moisture. Although some of the following beginner tips apply to all of these structures, I’ve written them with greenhouses in mind. Establish Your Desired Use If you plan to use your greenhouse solely for seed starting, an eight-foot by eight-foot structure will work just fine. Before buying and growing in a greenhouse, consider how you will use it. Do you envision it as a seed-starting space, a place to overwinter your cold-sensitive lemon trees, or a spot where you can grow tomatoes early in the season? As long as you set up the space appropriately, it’s okay to use your greenhouse for multiple purposes. Determining how you will use your greenhouse will help you select the proper structure and build it appropriately. For example, if you plan to use it solely for seed starting, an eight-foot by eight-foot structure will work just fine. Since you won’t be growing any larger plants, you’ll have space to build a potting bench, tables for seedlings, and shelves for storing pots and soil mix. Since you’ll regularly water seedling trays, consider covering dirt floors with gravel or landscape fabric to avoid soil splash and weed growth. However, if you mainly want to use the space to overwinter cold-sensitive plants like citrus, ginger, and figs, you’ll probably want a different layout. You’ll need open areas where tall plants can expand and an opening that allows you to move them in and out of the greenhouse easily. And if you want to grow plants in the ground, you’ll want an entirely different setup! Rather than building a concrete or gravel floor, you’ll want to develop rich soil or build raised beds. You’ll also want to consider irrigation systems and ensure pathways are large enough to accommodate harvest baskets or bins. The moral of the story? Think about how you plan to use your greenhouse before filling it with plants so you can avoid common beginner mistakes. Designing a proper layout and systems ahead of time can save you countless headaches down the road. Pay Attention to Moisture The easiest way to control humidity is to use vents and fans. Since greenhouses are closed structures, humidity is a major concern. While it’s possible for the humidity to get too low in a greenhouse, growers usually face the opposite problem. Irrigation and plant transpiration can lead to moisture buildup in closed greenhouses. This high humidity means plants are more likely to develop fungal diseases like powdery mildew, downy mildew, and gray mold. Therefore, your goal is to keep the humidity at moderate to low levels. The easiest way to control humidity is to use vents and fans. They push out humid air and draw in dry air. Some greenhouses utilize sensors and automated systems to open vents and turn on fans when the greenhouse reaches a specific humidity level. However, you can manually open vents and turn on fans to decrease air moisture. Another option is adding a dehumidifier to your greenhouse. However, this won’t add a beneficial increase in airflow like fans and vents. If your greenhouse consistently has consistently high humidity, consider your irrigation practices. Watering your plants more than necessary will increase the air moisture levels. Plus, constantly moist soil will increase the likelihood of pests like fungus gnats. Regularly Scout for Pests Most pests experience increased reproduction rates in warm conditions. Since greenhouses are closed structures removed from the outside world, greenhouse-grown plants often face different pest pressures than their outdoor-grown counterparts. There are a few main reasons for these differences.  Absence of natural predators: Since greenhouses are mostly closed off from the outside world, natural predators like ladybugs, green lacewings, and hoverflies have difficulty entering. Therefore, the pests they feed on can quickly multiply. You can purchase and release natural predators, but be aware the predators will die or fly off when they run out of their food source. Favorable environment: Most pests experience increased reproduction rates in warm conditions. That means a few pests can quickly evolve into an outbreak. So, even if aphids or mealybugs aren’t a big deal in your cold garden in the late fall or winter, they can cause serious harm in the warm greenhouse. Closed from outdoors: Since your greenhouse is closed to the outdoors, the pests rarely escape. Instead, they continue to reproduce and feed on your greenhouse plants. One way to prevent pest damage is to regularly scout your greenhouse for unwelcome critters. Set aside 15 minutes each week to thoroughly inspect your plants. Turn over leaves and check the base of the plants near the soil. Note any insects and their numbers. If you’re not sure what the insects are, spend time figuring it out! Remember, not all insects are bad for your plants. Start by browsing through this list of common pests and common beneficial insects. Once you determine you’re dealing with a pest, you can take appropriate control measures. Removing the pests may be as simple as wiping the pests of your plants. Use a soapy rag and continuing to monitor their numbers. Avoid Sudden Swings in Temperature A combination of heaters, vents, and fans can help you maintain a relatively steady temperature. One major benefit of growing indoors is the ability to control and regulate temperature. With the help of a heater or a sunny day, the air inside your greenhouse can be 70°F (21°C), even if it’s below freezing outside. And if you’re not careful, the same greenhouse can reach over 100°F (38°C)! While you may be tempted to allow hot days to offset cold nights, you should avoid sudden temperature changes. It’s okay if the temperature is warmer during the day and cooler at night, but you shouldn’t see a swing of 50 degrees (10°C). A better option is maintaining a relatively steady temperature throughout the day and night. A combination of heaters, vents, and fans can help you accomplish this. Once the temperature reaches above 70 or 80°F (21-27°C) during the day, open vents and turn on fans to decrease the temperature. You can also use heaters during the night and program them to turn on when the temperature hits 50°F (10°C) or 40°F (4°C). When setting the temperature, remember that each plant has an ideal temperature range. Brassica and lettuce seedlings don’t mind temperatures near freezing, but many tropical plants experience stress when the temperature dips below 50°F (10°C). Select Proper Varieties Cucumbers are well-suited for greenhouses because they produce fruit without pollination. If you’re growing in the ground in your greenhouse, pay attention to the varieties you select. This applies whether you’re growing tomatoes in the spring, lettuce in the winter, or citrus year-round. Since growers often plant vegetables like tomatoes and cucumbers in protected culture, plant breeders have created varieties that thrive in these growing conditions. For example, there are cucumber varieties well-suited for greenhouses because they produce fruit without pollination. Since greenhouse tomato plants remain dry but are often grown in high humidity, resistance to leaf mold and gray mold is more important than resistance to early blight. If you plan to grow greens like lettuce, kale, and spinach throughout the winter, you should also look for well-suited varieties. While you can try growing any variety in your protected structure, cultivars resistant to common greenhouse diseases, such as downy mildew, are more likely to perform well. Avoid Wet Leaves Water potted plants near the base of the plant to avoid wet foliage and soil splash. Since wet leaves can lead to fungal diseases, it’s best to keep plant foliage dry. This is especially important in a greenhouse since airflow is often limited, and disease can spread quickly in the confined space. Water potted plants near the base of the plant to avoid wet foliage and soil splash.A watering can, hose, or drip irrigation system can all provide proper irrigation. You can also choose to bottom water potted plants and trays filled with seedlings. If you’re growing plants in the grow, opt for drip irrigation instead of overhead watering. Drip emitters apply water directly to the soil and keep foliage dry. If you choose to water seedlings with a hose, ensure you provide excellent airflow to dry the foliage and prevent disease. I recommend running fans near your seedlings, especially if you utilize overhead irrigation. Keep a Journal You can use the information in your journal to fine-tune your practices and continually improve your garden. Although beginners think they’ll never forget that intense aphid outbreak or that impressive tomato harvest, it’s easy to forget greenhouse milestones, let alone minuscule details. That’s why I recommend using a journal to keep track of planting dates, temperatures, pest problems, and more. If you notice some of your plants show signs of disease or cold-damaged, you can look back on your notes to try to determine a cause. For example, you may realize you brought disease into your greenhouse when you moved outdoor plants inside. You can also look back on your journal year after year to remember planting dates, first harvest dates, and when seedlings were large enough to transplant outdoors. Then, you can use this information to fine-tune your greenhouse practices and advance from a beginner to an expert indoor grower. Source link

[iamownerofme]

Almost every gardener I know wishes for a greenhouse. Maybe you dream of moving your seed-starting operation out of your spare bedroom and into an outdoor space. Or you may want to experiment with growing citrus trees that are too big for your cozy yet tiny home. I get it—whether you’re a beginner or veteran grower, a greenhouse is an exciting addition to your garden! However, it also presents new challenges and a sometimes steep learning curve. If you want to grow healthy plants in your greenhouse this year, you must know how to manage this space properly. I’ll cover a few essential tips involving maintaining the proper environment, selecting the right plants, and making the most of this unique growing space. What Is a Greenhouse? They are permanent structures with a metal frame and glass or rigid plastic panels. If you’re part of the gardening world, you’ve probably heard people throw around terms like greenhouse, hoop house, high tunnel, and cold frame to refer to protected growing spaces. Since people use these terms so loosely, it can be challenging to determine if they all mean the same thing or if each one has a distinctive definition. While I’m not here to manage how you use these terms, knowing the exact definitions of each structure can be helpful. A greenhouse is typically a permanent or semi-permanent structure designed to stay in the same place for years. It’s often constructed of a metal frame and glass or rigid plastic panels, and the structure is often set on a solid foundation. Although it’s not a requirement, many greenhouses contain heating and/or automated ventilation systems. High tunnels and hoop houses are semi-permanent structures that are easy to move. They consist of large metal hoops covered with a UV-resistant plastic layer. Although some high tunnels have heating and ventilation systems, most do not. To manage temperature and ventilation, you can raise and lower the plastic sides of the tunnel. Cold frames are small, season-extension structures that can take many shapes and forms. They typically cover a single garden bed and require manual ventilation to control temperature and moisture. Although some of the following beginner tips apply to all of these structures, I’ve written them with greenhouses in mind. Establish Your Desired Use If you plan to use your greenhouse solely for seed starting, an eight-foot by eight-foot structure will work just fine. Before buying and growing in a greenhouse, consider how you will use it. Do you envision it as a seed-starting space, a place to overwinter your cold-sensitive lemon trees, or a spot where you can grow tomatoes early in the season? As long as you set up the space appropriately, it’s okay to use your greenhouse for multiple purposes. Determining how you will use your greenhouse will help you select the proper structure and build it appropriately. For example, if you plan to use it solely for seed starting, an eight-foot by eight-foot structure will work just fine. Since you won’t be growing any larger plants, you’ll have space to build a potting bench, tables for seedlings, and shelves for storing pots and soil mix. Since you’ll regularly water seedling trays, consider covering dirt floors with gravel or landscape fabric to avoid soil splash and weed growth. However, if you mainly want to use the space to overwinter cold-sensitive plants like citrus, ginger, and figs, you’ll probably want a different layout. You’ll need open areas where tall plants can expand and an opening that allows you to move them in and out of the greenhouse easily. And if you want to grow plants in the ground, you’ll want an entirely different setup! Rather than building a concrete or gravel floor, you’ll want to develop rich soil or build raised beds. You’ll also want to consider irrigation systems and ensure pathways are large enough to accommodate harvest baskets or bins. The moral of the story? Think about how you plan to use your greenhouse before filling it with plants so you can avoid common beginner mistakes. Designing a proper layout and systems ahead of time can save you countless headaches down the road. Pay Attention to Moisture The easiest way to control humidity is to use vents and fans. Since greenhouses are closed structures, humidity is a major concern. While it’s possible for the humidity to get too low in a greenhouse, growers usually face the opposite problem. Irrigation and plant transpiration can lead to moisture buildup in closed greenhouses. This high humidity means plants are more likely to develop fungal diseases like powdery mildew, downy mildew, and gray mold. Therefore, your goal is to keep the humidity at moderate to low levels. The easiest way to control humidity is to use vents and fans. They push out humid air and draw in dry air. Some greenhouses utilize sensors and automated systems to open vents and turn on fans when the greenhouse reaches a specific humidity level. However, you can manually open vents and turn on fans to decrease air moisture. Another option is adding a dehumidifier to your greenhouse. However, this won’t add a beneficial increase in airflow like fans and vents. If your greenhouse consistently has consistently high humidity, consider your irrigation practices. Watering your plants more than necessary will increase the air moisture levels. Plus, constantly moist soil will increase the likelihood of pests like fungus gnats. Regularly Scout for Pests Most pests experience increased reproduction rates in warm conditions. Since greenhouses are closed structures removed from the outside world, greenhouse-grown plants often face different pest pressures than their outdoor-grown counterparts. There are a few main reasons for these differences.  Absence of natural predators: Since greenhouses are mostly closed off from the outside world, natural predators like ladybugs, green lacewings, and hoverflies have difficulty entering. Therefore, the pests they feed on can quickly multiply. You can purchase and release natural predators, but be aware the predators will die or fly off when they run out of their food source. Favorable environment: Most pests experience increased reproduction rates in warm conditions. That means a few pests can quickly evolve into an outbreak. So, even if aphids or mealybugs aren’t a big deal in your cold garden in the late fall or winter, they can cause serious harm in the warm greenhouse. Closed from outdoors: Since your greenhouse is closed to the outdoors, the pests rarely escape. Instead, they continue to reproduce and feed on your greenhouse plants. One way to prevent pest damage is to regularly scout your greenhouse for unwelcome critters. Set aside 15 minutes each week to thoroughly inspect your plants. Turn over leaves and check the base of the plants near the soil. Note any insects and their numbers. If you’re not sure what the insects are, spend time figuring it out! Remember, not all insects are bad for your plants. Start by browsing through this list of common pests and common beneficial insects. Once you determine you’re dealing with a pest, you can take appropriate control measures. Removing the pests may be as simple as wiping the pests of your plants. Use a soapy rag and continuing to monitor their numbers. Avoid Sudden Swings in Temperature A combination of heaters, vents, and fans can help you maintain a relatively steady temperature. One major benefit of growing indoors is the ability to control and regulate temperature. With the help of a heater or a sunny day, the air inside your greenhouse can be 70°F (21°C), even if it’s below freezing outside. And if you’re not careful, the same greenhouse can reach over 100°F (38°C)! While you may be tempted to allow hot days to offset cold nights, you should avoid sudden temperature changes. It’s okay if the temperature is warmer during the day and cooler at night, but you shouldn’t see a swing of 50 degrees (10°C). A better option is maintaining a relatively steady temperature throughout the day and night. A combination of heaters, vents, and fans can help you accomplish this. Once the temperature reaches above 70 or 80°F (21-27°C) during the day, open vents and turn on fans to decrease the temperature. You can also use heaters during the night and program them to turn on when the temperature hits 50°F (10°C) or 40°F (4°C). When setting the temperature, remember that each plant has an ideal temperature range. Brassica and lettuce seedlings don’t mind temperatures near freezing, but many tropical plants experience stress when the temperature dips below 50°F (10°C). Select Proper Varieties Cucumbers are well-suited for greenhouses because they produce fruit without pollination. If you’re growing in the ground in your greenhouse, pay attention to the varieties you select. This applies whether you’re growing tomatoes in the spring, lettuce in the winter, or citrus year-round. Since growers often plant vegetables like tomatoes and cucumbers in protected culture, plant breeders have created varieties that thrive in these growing conditions. For example, there are cucumber varieties well-suited for greenhouses because they produce fruit without pollination. Since greenhouse tomato plants remain dry but are often grown in high humidity, resistance to leaf mold and gray mold is more important than resistance to early blight. If you plan to grow greens like lettuce, kale, and spinach throughout the winter, you should also look for well-suited varieties. While you can try growing any variety in your protected structure, cultivars resistant to common greenhouse diseases, such as downy mildew, are more likely to perform well. Avoid Wet Leaves Water potted plants near the base of the plant to avoid wet foliage and soil splash. Since wet leaves can lead to fungal diseases, it’s best to keep plant foliage dry. This is especially important in a greenhouse since airflow is often limited, and disease can spread quickly in the confined space. Water potted plants near the base of the plant to avoid wet foliage and soil splash.A watering can, hose, or drip irrigation system can all provide proper irrigation. You can also choose to bottom water potted plants and trays filled with seedlings. If you’re growing plants in the grow, opt for drip irrigation instead of overhead watering. Drip emitters apply water directly to the soil and keep foliage dry. If you choose to water seedlings with a hose, ensure you provide excellent airflow to dry the foliage and prevent disease. I recommend running fans near your seedlings, especially if you utilize overhead irrigation. Keep a Journal You can use the information in your journal to fine-tune your practices and continually improve your garden. Although beginners think they’ll never forget that intense aphid outbreak or that impressive tomato harvest, it’s easy to forget greenhouse milestones, let alone minuscule details. That’s why I recommend using a journal to keep track of planting dates, temperatures, pest problems, and more. If you notice some of your plants show signs of disease or cold-damaged, you can look back on your notes to try to determine a cause. For example, you may realize you brought disease into your greenhouse when you moved outdoor plants inside. You can also look back on your journal year after year to remember planting dates, first harvest dates, and when seedlings were large enough to transplant outdoors. Then, you can use this information to fine-tune your greenhouse practices and advance from a beginner to an expert indoor grower. Source link

[shelyold]

Almost every gardener I know wishes for a greenhouse. Maybe you dream of moving your seed-starting operation out of your spare bedroom and into an outdoor space. Or you may want to experiment with growing citrus trees that are too big for your cozy yet tiny home. I get it—whether you’re a beginner or veteran grower, a greenhouse is an exciting addition to your garden! However, it also presents new challenges and a sometimes steep learning curve. If you want to grow healthy plants in your greenhouse this year, you must know how to manage this space properly. I’ll cover a few essential tips involving maintaining the proper environment, selecting the right plants, and making the most of this unique growing space. What Is a Greenhouse? They are permanent structures with a metal frame and glass or rigid plastic panels. If you’re part of the gardening world, you’ve probably heard people throw around terms like greenhouse, hoop house, high tunnel, and cold frame to refer to protected growing spaces. Since people use these terms so loosely, it can be challenging to determine if they all mean the same thing or if each one has a distinctive definition. While I’m not here to manage how you use these terms, knowing the exact definitions of each structure can be helpful. A greenhouse is typically a permanent or semi-permanent structure designed to stay in the same place for years. It’s often constructed of a metal frame and glass or rigid plastic panels, and the structure is often set on a solid foundation. Although it’s not a requirement, many greenhouses contain heating and/or automated ventilation systems. High tunnels and hoop houses are semi-permanent structures that are easy to move. They consist of large metal hoops covered with a UV-resistant plastic layer. Although some high tunnels have heating and ventilation systems, most do not. To manage temperature and ventilation, you can raise and lower the plastic sides of the tunnel. Cold frames are small, season-extension structures that can take many shapes and forms. They typically cover a single garden bed and require manual ventilation to control temperature and moisture. Although some of the following beginner tips apply to all of these structures, I’ve written them with greenhouses in mind. Establish Your Desired Use If you plan to use your greenhouse solely for seed starting, an eight-foot by eight-foot structure will work just fine. Before buying and growing in a greenhouse, consider how you will use it. Do you envision it as a seed-starting space, a place to overwinter your cold-sensitive lemon trees, or a spot where you can grow tomatoes early in the season? As long as you set up the space appropriately, it’s okay to use your greenhouse for multiple purposes. Determining how you will use your greenhouse will help you select the proper structure and build it appropriately. For example, if you plan to use it solely for seed starting, an eight-foot by eight-foot structure will work just fine. Since you won’t be growing any larger plants, you’ll have space to build a potting bench, tables for seedlings, and shelves for storing pots and soil mix. Since you’ll regularly water seedling trays, consider covering dirt floors with gravel or landscape fabric to avoid soil splash and weed growth. However, if you mainly want to use the space to overwinter cold-sensitive plants like citrus, ginger, and figs, you’ll probably want a different layout. You’ll need open areas where tall plants can expand and an opening that allows you to move them in and out of the greenhouse easily. And if you want to grow plants in the ground, you’ll want an entirely different setup! Rather than building a concrete or gravel floor, you’ll want to develop rich soil or build raised beds. You’ll also want to consider irrigation systems and ensure pathways are large enough to accommodate harvest baskets or bins. The moral of the story? Think about how you plan to use your greenhouse before filling it with plants so you can avoid common beginner mistakes. Designing a proper layout and systems ahead of time can save you countless headaches down the road. Pay Attention to Moisture The easiest way to control humidity is to use vents and fans. Since greenhouses are closed structures, humidity is a major concern. While it’s possible for the humidity to get too low in a greenhouse, growers usually face the opposite problem. Irrigation and plant transpiration can lead to moisture buildup in closed greenhouses. This high humidity means plants are more likely to develop fungal diseases like powdery mildew, downy mildew, and gray mold. Therefore, your goal is to keep the humidity at moderate to low levels. The easiest way to control humidity is to use vents and fans. They push out humid air and draw in dry air. Some greenhouses utilize sensors and automated systems to open vents and turn on fans when the greenhouse reaches a specific humidity level. However, you can manually open vents and turn on fans to decrease air moisture. Another option is adding a dehumidifier to your greenhouse. However, this won’t add a beneficial increase in airflow like fans and vents. If your greenhouse consistently has consistently high humidity, consider your irrigation practices. Watering your plants more than necessary will increase the air moisture levels. Plus, constantly moist soil will increase the likelihood of pests like fungus gnats. Regularly Scout for Pests Most pests experience increased reproduction rates in warm conditions. Since greenhouses are closed structures removed from the outside world, greenhouse-grown plants often face different pest pressures than their outdoor-grown counterparts. There are a few main reasons for these differences.  Absence of natural predators: Since greenhouses are mostly closed off from the outside world, natural predators like ladybugs, green lacewings, and hoverflies have difficulty entering. Therefore, the pests they feed on can quickly multiply. You can purchase and release natural predators, but be aware the predators will die or fly off when they run out of their food source. Favorable environment: Most pests experience increased reproduction rates in warm conditions. That means a few pests can quickly evolve into an outbreak. So, even if aphids or mealybugs aren’t a big deal in your cold garden in the late fall or winter, they can cause serious harm in the warm greenhouse. Closed from outdoors: Since your greenhouse is closed to the outdoors, the pests rarely escape. Instead, they continue to reproduce and feed on your greenhouse plants. One way to prevent pest damage is to regularly scout your greenhouse for unwelcome critters. Set aside 15 minutes each week to thoroughly inspect your plants. Turn over leaves and check the base of the plants near the soil. Note any insects and their numbers. If you’re not sure what the insects are, spend time figuring it out! Remember, not all insects are bad for your plants. Start by browsing through this list of common pests and common beneficial insects. Once you determine you’re dealing with a pest, you can take appropriate control measures. Removing the pests may be as simple as wiping the pests of your plants. Use a soapy rag and continuing to monitor their numbers. Avoid Sudden Swings in Temperature A combination of heaters, vents, and fans can help you maintain a relatively steady temperature. One major benefit of growing indoors is the ability to control and regulate temperature. With the help of a heater or a sunny day, the air inside your greenhouse can be 70°F (21°C), even if it’s below freezing outside. And if you’re not careful, the same greenhouse can reach over 100°F (38°C)! While you may be tempted to allow hot days to offset cold nights, you should avoid sudden temperature changes. It’s okay if the temperature is warmer during the day and cooler at night, but you shouldn’t see a swing of 50 degrees (10°C). A better option is maintaining a relatively steady temperature throughout the day and night. A combination of heaters, vents, and fans can help you accomplish this. Once the temperature reaches above 70 or 80°F (21-27°C) during the day, open vents and turn on fans to decrease the temperature. You can also use heaters during the night and program them to turn on when the temperature hits 50°F (10°C) or 40°F (4°C). When setting the temperature, remember that each plant has an ideal temperature range. Brassica and lettuce seedlings don’t mind temperatures near freezing, but many tropical plants experience stress when the temperature dips below 50°F (10°C). Select Proper Varieties Cucumbers are well-suited for greenhouses because they produce fruit without pollination. If you’re growing in the ground in your greenhouse, pay attention to the varieties you select. This applies whether you’re growing tomatoes in the spring, lettuce in the winter, or citrus year-round. Since growers often plant vegetables like tomatoes and cucumbers in protected culture, plant breeders have created varieties that thrive in these growing conditions. For example, there are cucumber varieties well-suited for greenhouses because they produce fruit without pollination. Since greenhouse tomato plants remain dry but are often grown in high humidity, resistance to leaf mold and gray mold is more important than resistance to early blight. If you plan to grow greens like lettuce, kale, and spinach throughout the winter, you should also look for well-suited varieties. While you can try growing any variety in your protected structure, cultivars resistant to common greenhouse diseases, such as downy mildew, are more likely to perform well. Avoid Wet Leaves Water potted plants near the base of the plant to avoid wet foliage and soil splash. Since wet leaves can lead to fungal diseases, it’s best to keep plant foliage dry. This is especially important in a greenhouse since airflow is often limited, and disease can spread quickly in the confined space. Water potted plants near the base of the plant to avoid wet foliage and soil splash.A watering can, hose, or drip irrigation system can all provide proper irrigation. You can also choose to bottom water potted plants and trays filled with seedlings. If you’re growing plants in the grow, opt for drip irrigation instead of overhead watering. Drip emitters apply water directly to the soil and keep foliage dry. If you choose to water seedlings with a hose, ensure you provide excellent airflow to dry the foliage and prevent disease. I recommend running fans near your seedlings, especially if you utilize overhead irrigation. Keep a Journal You can use the information in your journal to fine-tune your practices and continually improve your garden. Although beginners think they’ll never forget that intense aphid outbreak or that impressive tomato harvest, it’s easy to forget greenhouse milestones, let alone minuscule details. That’s why I recommend using a journal to keep track of planting dates, temperatures, pest problems, and more. If you notice some of your plants show signs of disease or cold-damaged, you can look back on your notes to try to determine a cause. For example, you may realize you brought disease into your greenhouse when you moved outdoor plants inside. You can also look back on your journal year after year to remember planting dates, first harvest dates, and when seedlings were large enough to transplant outdoors. Then, you can use this information to fine-tune your greenhouse practices and advance from a beginner to an expert indoor grower. Source link

[iammeandmy]

Almost every gardener I know wishes for a greenhouse. Maybe you dream of moving your seed-starting operation out of your spare bedroom and into an outdoor space. Or you may want to experiment with growing citrus trees that are too big for your cozy yet tiny home. I get it—whether you’re a beginner or veteran grower, a greenhouse is an exciting addition to your garden! However, it also presents new challenges and a sometimes steep learning curve. If you want to grow healthy plants in your greenhouse this year, you must know how to manage this space properly. I’ll cover a few essential tips involving maintaining the proper environment, selecting the right plants, and making the most of this unique growing space. What Is a Greenhouse? They are permanent structures with a metal frame and glass or rigid plastic panels. If you’re part of the gardening world, you’ve probably heard people throw around terms like greenhouse, hoop house, high tunnel, and cold frame to refer to protected growing spaces. Since people use these terms so loosely, it can be challenging to determine if they all mean the same thing or if each one has a distinctive definition. While I’m not here to manage how you use these terms, knowing the exact definitions of each structure can be helpful. A greenhouse is typically a permanent or semi-permanent structure designed to stay in the same place for years. It’s often constructed of a metal frame and glass or rigid plastic panels, and the structure is often set on a solid foundation. Although it’s not a requirement, many greenhouses contain heating and/or automated ventilation systems. High tunnels and hoop houses are semi-permanent structures that are easy to move. They consist of large metal hoops covered with a UV-resistant plastic layer. Although some high tunnels have heating and ventilation systems, most do not. To manage temperature and ventilation, you can raise and lower the plastic sides of the tunnel. Cold frames are small, season-extension structures that can take many shapes and forms. They typically cover a single garden bed and require manual ventilation to control temperature and moisture. Although some of the following beginner tips apply to all of these structures, I’ve written them with greenhouses in mind. Establish Your Desired Use If you plan to use your greenhouse solely for seed starting, an eight-foot by eight-foot structure will work just fine. Before buying and growing in a greenhouse, consider how you will use it. Do you envision it as a seed-starting space, a place to overwinter your cold-sensitive lemon trees, or a spot where you can grow tomatoes early in the season? As long as you set up the space appropriately, it’s okay to use your greenhouse for multiple purposes. Determining how you will use your greenhouse will help you select the proper structure and build it appropriately. For example, if you plan to use it solely for seed starting, an eight-foot by eight-foot structure will work just fine. Since you won’t be growing any larger plants, you’ll have space to build a potting bench, tables for seedlings, and shelves for storing pots and soil mix. Since you’ll regularly water seedling trays, consider covering dirt floors with gravel or landscape fabric to avoid soil splash and weed growth. However, if you mainly want to use the space to overwinter cold-sensitive plants like citrus, ginger, and figs, you’ll probably want a different layout. You’ll need open areas where tall plants can expand and an opening that allows you to move them in and out of the greenhouse easily. And if you want to grow plants in the ground, you’ll want an entirely different setup! Rather than building a concrete or gravel floor, you’ll want to develop rich soil or build raised beds. You’ll also want to consider irrigation systems and ensure pathways are large enough to accommodate harvest baskets or bins. The moral of the story? Think about how you plan to use your greenhouse before filling it with plants so you can avoid common beginner mistakes. Designing a proper layout and systems ahead of time can save you countless headaches down the road. Pay Attention to Moisture The easiest way to control humidity is to use vents and fans. Since greenhouses are closed structures, humidity is a major concern. While it’s possible for the humidity to get too low in a greenhouse, growers usually face the opposite problem. Irrigation and plant transpiration can lead to moisture buildup in closed greenhouses. This high humidity means plants are more likely to develop fungal diseases like powdery mildew, downy mildew, and gray mold. Therefore, your goal is to keep the humidity at moderate to low levels. The easiest way to control humidity is to use vents and fans. They push out humid air and draw in dry air. Some greenhouses utilize sensors and automated systems to open vents and turn on fans when the greenhouse reaches a specific humidity level. However, you can manually open vents and turn on fans to decrease air moisture. Another option is adding a dehumidifier to your greenhouse. However, this won’t add a beneficial increase in airflow like fans and vents. If your greenhouse consistently has consistently high humidity, consider your irrigation practices. Watering your plants more than necessary will increase the air moisture levels. Plus, constantly moist soil will increase the likelihood of pests like fungus gnats. Regularly Scout for Pests Most pests experience increased reproduction rates in warm conditions. Since greenhouses are closed structures removed from the outside world, greenhouse-grown plants often face different pest pressures than their outdoor-grown counterparts. There are a few main reasons for these differences.  Absence of natural predators: Since greenhouses are mostly closed off from the outside world, natural predators like ladybugs, green lacewings, and hoverflies have difficulty entering. Therefore, the pests they feed on can quickly multiply. You can purchase and release natural predators, but be aware the predators will die or fly off when they run out of their food source. Favorable environment: Most pests experience increased reproduction rates in warm conditions. That means a few pests can quickly evolve into an outbreak. So, even if aphids or mealybugs aren’t a big deal in your cold garden in the late fall or winter, they can cause serious harm in the warm greenhouse. Closed from outdoors: Since your greenhouse is closed to the outdoors, the pests rarely escape. Instead, they continue to reproduce and feed on your greenhouse plants. One way to prevent pest damage is to regularly scout your greenhouse for unwelcome critters. Set aside 15 minutes each week to thoroughly inspect your plants. Turn over leaves and check the base of the plants near the soil. Note any insects and their numbers. If you’re not sure what the insects are, spend time figuring it out! Remember, not all insects are bad for your plants. Start by browsing through this list of common pests and common beneficial insects. Once you determine you’re dealing with a pest, you can take appropriate control measures. Removing the pests may be as simple as wiping the pests of your plants. Use a soapy rag and continuing to monitor their numbers. Avoid Sudden Swings in Temperature A combination of heaters, vents, and fans can help you maintain a relatively steady temperature. One major benefit of growing indoors is the ability to control and regulate temperature. With the help of a heater or a sunny day, the air inside your greenhouse can be 70°F (21°C), even if it’s below freezing outside. And if you’re not careful, the same greenhouse can reach over 100°F (38°C)! While you may be tempted to allow hot days to offset cold nights, you should avoid sudden temperature changes. It’s okay if the temperature is warmer during the day and cooler at night, but you shouldn’t see a swing of 50 degrees (10°C). A better option is maintaining a relatively steady temperature throughout the day and night. A combination of heaters, vents, and fans can help you accomplish this. Once the temperature reaches above 70 or 80°F (21-27°C) during the day, open vents and turn on fans to decrease the temperature. You can also use heaters during the night and program them to turn on when the temperature hits 50°F (10°C) or 40°F (4°C). When setting the temperature, remember that each plant has an ideal temperature range. Brassica and lettuce seedlings don’t mind temperatures near freezing, but many tropical plants experience stress when the temperature dips below 50°F (10°C). Select Proper Varieties Cucumbers are well-suited for greenhouses because they produce fruit without pollination. If you’re growing in the ground in your greenhouse, pay attention to the varieties you select. This applies whether you’re growing tomatoes in the spring, lettuce in the winter, or citrus year-round. Since growers often plant vegetables like tomatoes and cucumbers in protected culture, plant breeders have created varieties that thrive in these growing conditions. For example, there are cucumber varieties well-suited for greenhouses because they produce fruit without pollination. Since greenhouse tomato plants remain dry but are often grown in high humidity, resistance to leaf mold and gray mold is more important than resistance to early blight. If you plan to grow greens like lettuce, kale, and spinach throughout the winter, you should also look for well-suited varieties. While you can try growing any variety in your protected structure, cultivars resistant to common greenhouse diseases, such as downy mildew, are more likely to perform well. Avoid Wet Leaves Water potted plants near the base of the plant to avoid wet foliage and soil splash. Since wet leaves can lead to fungal diseases, it’s best to keep plant foliage dry. This is especially important in a greenhouse since airflow is often limited, and disease can spread quickly in the confined space. Water potted plants near the base of the plant to avoid wet foliage and soil splash.A watering can, hose, or drip irrigation system can all provide proper irrigation. You can also choose to bottom water potted plants and trays filled with seedlings. If you’re growing plants in the grow, opt for drip irrigation instead of overhead watering. Drip emitters apply water directly to the soil and keep foliage dry. If you choose to water seedlings with a hose, ensure you provide excellent airflow to dry the foliage and prevent disease. I recommend running fans near your seedlings, especially if you utilize overhead irrigation. Keep a Journal You can use the information in your journal to fine-tune your practices and continually improve your garden. Although beginners think they’ll never forget that intense aphid outbreak or that impressive tomato harvest, it’s easy to forget greenhouse milestones, let alone minuscule details. That’s why I recommend using a journal to keep track of planting dates, temperatures, pest problems, and more. If you notice some of your plants show signs of disease or cold-damaged, you can look back on your notes to try to determine a cause. For example, you may realize you brought disease into your greenhouse when you moved outdoor plants inside. You can also look back on your journal year after year to remember planting dates, first harvest dates, and when seedlings were large enough to transplant outdoors. Then, you can use this information to fine-tune your greenhouse practices and advance from a beginner to an expert indoor grower. Source link

[jonfarreporter]

Vitamin C Has Always Been a Good Thing, Especially for Skin

As this fall season begins with a bumper crop of nutritious produce, one of the most important and common vitamins to help us into the oncoming winter is Vitamin C. 

This past September 29 weekend, Caryl Brandes of Caryl B Skin Care Products introduced her Face Cream with Vitamin C at Farmers Market - Marin County Mart in Larkspur, at Larkspur Landing, not far from the Larkspur Ferry terminal. 

Also referred to as ascorbic acid, Vitamin C has been known for centuries for its health benefits.  Primarily through citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, limes and grapefruit. Historians/archaeologist can trace the origins of the importance of this antioxidant-nutrient as far back as ancient Egypt, through the descriptions in ancient records of its lack there of in conditions such as scurvy. 

Egyptologist, professor Joann Fletcher, PhD clarified. “Some scholars have also suggested scurvy is referred to in the Ebers Medical Papyri from c.1550 BC (although the terms used are somewhat vague).”

Yet, as the University of York, England archaeological researcher pointed out.

“It is also worth saying that the Egyptian diet - then and now - has always been very rich in onions and garlic.” “Both are excellent sources of Vitamin C,” she added.

It was during the age of exploration in the 1700s when it was discovered that eating citrus fruits combated scurvy. Citrus was then prescribed as essential for sailors and crew on ships to avoid scurvy by having citrus added to their daily diet. 

And, it wasn’t until the 20th Century when in the 1930s a form of Vitamin C was added to skin care. A Hungarian biochemist Albert Szent-Györgyi, discovered and isolated the particular chemical properties of Vitamin C. From that discovery, Vitamin C became a staple of health. 

His discovery earned him and his team the Nobel Prize in 1937. Since that time, for over 80 years, Vitamin C has become a vital nutrient utilized in many food-nutrition and health care products.

As noted by researchers at Harvard Medical School, “clinical studies have demonstrated that vitamin C can improve wrinkles,” noted Neera Nathan, MD & Payal Patel, MD. 

The two Harvard University physicians went on to say… “Topical vitamin C is a science-backed, dermatologist-favorite ingredient that may help slow early skin aging, prevent sun damage, and improve the appearance of wrinkles, dark spots, and acne.”

This is why Brandes wanted to incorporate the use of Vitamin C in her face cream product line. “Vitamin C helps, said Brandes - it is just one of many ingredients I use in my specialty skin care products that are beneficial.”

As one who is well acquainted with skin conditions, Dr. Debra Jaliman, MD, a dermatologist in private practice in New York City, added. “Vitamin C, stimulates collagen production so it helps with fine lines.” As a safe and effective ingredient, Dr. Jaliman says, Vitamin C decreases spots, patches of discoloration, and melasma on the skin.” 

Melasma can occur when the skin is exposed to too much sun. Hot weather and intense heat can aggravate the skin. With fall weather temperatures continuing into 80 degrees, Caryl B’s face cream and face serum are a welcome relief to sun-stressed skin.

Because Caryl B products are made essentially for those with sensitive skin, having a high quality face cream is vital. Pleased that her skin care products are well-received, Brandes said. “I just try to educate my customers as to what certain ingredients such as Vitamin C can  do to help.”

For more information about Caryl B skin and personal care products, visit the website.

[gloriouskiaa]

Daily skin care routine for oily skin

Were you aware that your skin is a natural source of oil? Yes, the skin contains oil-producing glands called sebaceous glands. The natural oils formed by these glands aid in the retention of moisture and the hydration of your skin.

Excess sebum or oil produced by the sebaceous glands results in oily skin. Oily skin can also be caused by influences outside of your power, such as your genes, stress, humid weather, and hormonal changes.

If you suffer from oily skin on the daily, continue reading to learn more and discover the best skincare regimen for oily skin.  

How can I take care of my oily skin daily?

If you experience an extremely oily skin, creating and committing to a new skincare regimen focusing on moisturizing and hydrating your skin will provide excellent outcomes.

Segregate your everyday skincare regimen for oily skin into 2 components: a morning skincare schedule and an evening skincare schedule.

On one hand where a morning skincare schedule protects your skin from harm caused by the sun and other environmental contaminants, an evening skin care schedule will help repair the harm done to your face's skin throughout the day.  

Use Kiaa Republiks’

Ubtan Foaming Face Wash

for Deep Cleansing, De-Tan & Skin Clarity

This foaming facewash from Kiaa Republiks’ contains potent antioxidants, UV protectors, and melanin blockers, which help to maintain excess melanin under control and improve your skin's radiance.

It aids in the reduction of spots and poor skin tone. It is a skin-reviving facewash that gently removes the coating of dead skin cells from your face to refresh tanned, stressed skin. It is ideal for your skincare regimen since it is one of the finest skincare items available.

Why use Kiaa Republiks’ Ubtan Foaming Face Wash for Deep Cleansing, De-Tan & Skin Clarity?

Kiaa Republiks’ Ubtan foaming face wash contains a scientifically formulated blend of natural ingredients in proportionate levels that acts as the ultimate remedy for treating oily skin. Some of those ingredients are:  

Orange oil

The rind of the sweet orange, Citrus sinensis, is used to remove the orange essential oil. Its sweet smell is joyful, uplifting, soothing and stimulating all at the same time. Orange oil can help to reduce oily skin, which can aid in acne reduction. Orange oil helps to lessen pain or inflammation while providing relief. It is a perfect ingredient for treating oily skin.

Saffron

Saffron acts as an organic skin lightener. It lightens the color of your skin while enhancing your inherent natural glow. After washing your face, applying some saffron oil all over your face and body can work wonders for your skin.

Patchouli oil

Dermatitis, oiliness, and dry, cracking skin are some examples of skin disorders that can be treated by Patchouli oil. Reducing the severity of symptoms such as acne, dullness, and breakouts could alleviate skin distress and provide sensations of calmness via skin relief  

Turmeric

The anti-inflammatory properties will target your excessively active pores for soothing your skin. Acne can be reduced by using a turmeric face mask. Turmeric is well-known for its antibacterial effects, which aid in the maintenance of a clean and clear skin. Turmeric reduces oil secretion from the sebaceous glands and aids in the prevention of infections.

Ylang Ylang oil

Ylang Ylang essential oil has a lovely floral, and sensual fragrance. It's an outstanding oil for managing oily skin. It is ideal for treating sensitive yet oily skin.  

How to control oily skin?

Washing regularly can reduce the amount of oil on the skin. The following methods are recommended for washing oily skin:

Wash with a gentle soap and warm water.

Avoid soaps with fragrances, added moisturizers, or harsh chemicals, which can irritate or dry out the skin, making it respond by creating more sebum.

Washing your face on a daily basis will help to minimize the levels of natural oils produced in your skin. For cleaning oily skin from deep within, the following instructions are recommended by top dermatologists:

Use a soft soap and warm water to clean your face off all dirt and grime.

Reduce harsh products loaded with fragrances, artificial moisturizers, or hard chemicals, which can aggravate or dry out your skin; causing it to produce more sebum.

Avoid using rough washcloths and loofahs because the increased friction can stimulate your skin to produce more oil.  

If this does not work, other medicated products meant to cure acne can. These medicinal products have acids that can help with oily skin, such as:

salicylic acid

lactic acid

alpha-hydroxy acid

Benzoyl peroxide  

Any skin type can be irritated by such acids. When introducing a new medicinal product in your skincare regimen, test it on a tiny patch of skin and see how it responds.

Choosing the best facial cleansers can be beneficial for certain individuals. According to a 2015 study, a mild facial cleanser containing sodium lauryl carboxylate and alkyl carboxylates was successful for treating moderate facial acne, despite increasing sebum formation in certain patches of the face.

Many people with oily skin who do not suffer from acne vulgaris can benefit from a cleansing routine consisting of fragrance-free glycerin soap and hot water.

Alternatively, you can also try Kiaa Republiks’  range of excellent facial cleansers available in its online store.

Homemade skin care routine for oily skin

The face masks given below are simple to produce, and the constituent ingredients are likely to be found in your kitchen. So you shouldn't have a reason for skipping these face masks from your everyday skin care regimen for oily skin.

Banana Face Pack

Ripe bananas are very good at curing oily skin. Bananas boast anti-aging effects that can enable to get clear of dark spots while brightening your oily skin. To produce a paste of banana face mask, mash a ripe banana and add 2-3 drops of lemon juice. Apply it to your face and allow it to dry. Then, to enjoy the softness and freshness left behind by your home-made banana mask, clean your face with lukewarm water.

Aloe Vera Face Pack

Aloe vera is an excellent moisturizer for dry skin since it reduces inflammation and avoids pore clogging. Aloe vera is suitable for all skin types because it contains anti-inflammatory properties that cure a variety of skin problems. To make a face mask using this wonder ingredient, combine aloe vera and honey, apply evenly and rinse after drying. Face masks made from aloe vera work wonders for oily skin.

Gram Flour (Besan) and Curd Face Pack

It's an age-old remedy for curing excessively oily skin. Gram flour, also known as besan, is an anti-pimple and anti-aging tan reduction product that decreases your skin's oiliness. When used as a face mask, besan combined with curd will make your skin shimmer with radiance and liveliness.

Cucumber Face Pack

Cucumber is a fantastic natural product for treating oily skin. It lightens dark spots and helps the skin appear radiant and youthful. Cucumber hydrates the skin without causing it to get sticky. Its inherent astringent properties reinforce pores while also removing excess oil, dead tissue, and dust. Using cotton balls, rub cucumber juice all over your skin. Allow it to dry before rinsing with warm water.

Summer skin care routine for oily skin

Come summers and those suffering from oily skin start buying one product after another to combat their skin conditions. We’ve rounded up some of the best tips for summer skincare routine for those of you suffering with oily skin.

Buy a set of blotting papers

This does not imply that you should go all out for purchasing blotting papers almost every other day. When used excessively, they will absorb even the most necessary oil levels from your skin and stimulate unnecessary sebaceous gland behavior. Gently dab the pad on the greasy patches of your skin either once or twice every day to eliminate extra sebum.

Try Micellar Water

This latest arrival to the cosmetics industry has made life even easier over the summer season. It is portable and does not need rinsing with water immediately after application. Micellar water is an excellent option for cleansing and removing extra oil and dirt from your skin.  

Make Sure You Apply Sunscreen

Sunscreen ought to be a component of your daily skin care routine at all times of the year. The sun's harsh UV rays can cause excessive skin damage. If you suffer from oily or acne-prone skin, wearing sunscreen is a must. This will protect your skin from exposure to the sun and the resulting breakouts.

To avoid sun damage and its resulting blemishes, use a broad-spectrum, parabens-free sunscreen. During the summer season, dermatologists advise on using a sunscreen or sunblock with an SPF of at least 30. They also recommend reapplying of sunblock after every two hours.

Use a mild moisturizer

Moisturizers are important for all skin types. However, if you suffer from an excessively oily skin, dermatologists advise on using a mild, hydrating moisturizer to save your face's skin from getting too greasy by mid-day. Are you thinking whether you need a moisturizer even when you have a lot of oiliness on your skin? Moisturizers help keep your skin hydrated. They reduce sebum usage, which can aid in the prevention of acne breakouts.

Conclusion

Several home remedies for treating oily skin have been thoroughly researched, and some have been shown to be reliable by clinical evidence.

A personal experience is the primary measuring stick for efficacy. You should establish and adhere to a routine that works the best for them.

The best approach may be to contact a dermatologist and collaborate with them to make a list of everyday habits and conditions that may reduce the emergence of oily skin.

It is important to try any product or procedure on a small patch of your skin first to observe any adverse skin reactions. If a substance causes a negative reaction on your skin, it should never be used again, and you should contact an expert for other alternatives.

If you suffer from excessive acne and oily skin, you should consult a dermatologist first to determine the safest way to protect your skin for avoiding serious skin problems or scarring.

[romioneficfest]

2020 Romione Ficlet Fest

It’s been years since there was a ficlet/short story fest and since there's a new group of writers with us, I figured it was time to bring this lovely fest idea to us for the 20's.

Toss in that there’s plenty of people who are still under stay at home orders, why not get a fest going for some wonderful Romione goodness. (and I could use the practice, too!)

Interested?

Information & Rules:

1. Daily Prompts will be published for 2 weeks. There will be a word, scene, situation. Pick (1) and go from there.  I don't care how it's used, just that it's in there somewhere.

2. Ficlet is 500 words or less. Short Stories are 500 - 1500 words. I know everyone (including myself) absolutely love reading chapters that are 10K in length. But it’s also talent to write a short story, too. 

3. For those who want Ace Safe, I got you. The more the merrier for Ace Safe fics. If a submitted fic is over T / 15 / PG-15 rating, a Read-more line and tags will be applied to the story (for those who want the lemon zest, you have to click into it. Active & Enthusiastic Consent is very sexy!) I know plenty will want to only read MA fics. Cool. Those who want no citrus, I got you covered. 

4. Ron & Hermione's relationship must feature primarily in your story. (So if Ron's talking to Harry discussing his relationship with Hermione, 'tis cool. Ron snogging Harry instead - let's wait for a Rarry fest.) Two hard and fast rules for this fest:

1. No bashing of Ron or Hermione (anonymous request)

2. No Infidelity (My request & just... No.)

5. While a beta reader isn't mandatory, it's really, really helpful and appreciated. If you need one, let me know and I'll put a request out for someone to help. This also goes for anyone who doesn't speak English as a first language. I’m sure almost everyone would be more than glad to help in any way they can.

5A. Titles are necessary (for voting purposes) even if you pull it out from the Chamber of Secrets & toss it in a chamber pot once it's finished.

6. Ficlets will be published Anonymously until after the voting is completed. This should prevent any inherent bias towards one person or another or their stories.

6A. Voting will be through SurveyMonkey (once I crash course on how to use it and the best way to make the bracket voting happen.) It will be set to 1 person, one vote for each bracket per round.   No sockpuppet accounts. Let’s keep the drama in the stories and not anywhere else. 

6B. Stories are subjective. What is award-winning for one might be blah for another. Please keep any comments positive in public. Even if it's not a favourite, a reblog is never remiss, even without any additional tags. Someone else might see your reblog and it is their immediate new favourite.

6C: If the story is of a sensitive nature, please add all relevant trigger warnings and notes when submitting so I can have it tagged accordingly. If not tagged, I will add tags. 

6D: If anyone needs any specific tags (or what I need to look for in fics) send them in (with a name or Anonymous) and I’ll add it to a tag list (like for one who needs Not Safe for Ramadan when it comes to many things that are Haram.)

7. I will participate but am not eligible to win. I am actively choosing not to be eligible to win this prize. (I'm hosting it and purchased the grand prize and reading all the new fic ahead of time is my prize.)

8. In the event of a tie, I will vote - but only for that one particular binary bracket vote. This is a fest for the fans and followers. I will otherwise not vote. Thus, I cannot vote for myself - at all. This is for all of you.

8A. I will find a way to make the voting show up immediately so there is no shady or hinky stuff - or anyone saying I’m manipulating the polls. I don’t play that game but saying so upfront prevents any hard feelings. (I hope!)

9. Posting of Daily Prompts will be at 6pm GMT every day with a reblog at 6am GMT as well. I know we have fans abroad and I would love their stories too. More fics is never remiss - even if English isn’t your first language. If you need an additional posting time, let me know and I can set it on Queue as well.

10. Ficlets will be published as they come in. Please hold off publishing your fics on Ao3, FF, or Tumblr 'til after the Masterlist is released.

11. Ao3 publishing is still up in the air. I’m working on it. I hope to have it up and going within the next 10 days. 

What will you win? Glad you asked.

The lovely and very Talented @hillnerd​ has agreed to a commission for (1) full colour artwork 2 person (with details!) (only thing isn't a fully detailed background but y'all probably won't mind!) piece of art - for you, of your choosing (*and her pre-approved limitations.) I've paid her commission fee. The winner gets to choose what they want. All you have to do is discuss it with her what you want - and what she’s amenable to creating for you. I’m not involved in that process at all.

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Check-in at 6pm GMT on 11 May 2020 for the First Day’s Prompts.

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With Love and Acidic Smolder,

[wordynerdygurl]

Body & Soul

Author's Note: Hello everyone! This is my first Halloween on Tumblr and I wanted to try my hand at one of the prompt challenges. This story is centered around the Hatterween quote, "I have no plans to love you. No matter what. You can't make me love you." #hatterweenfics

Also, as of today I have 100 followers, which is so amazingly awesome that I can't really believe it's true!! I feel so grateful that you read my little stories and doubly so that you like 'em!!!

Feel free to reblog the stories, drop comments and ask me anything!! You're my people and I love you!!

Now, the details...

Pairing: Dark, Demonic Loki x Reader

Warnings: SMUT, rough language, Dark themes, D/s... in short, not our sweet boy but sexy just the same.

Summary: The best things happen when you dance, especially if your partner is a dark stranger, hungry for you, body and soul!

Damn, tequila tastes good. It's not the first time you've thought this, biting into a lemon, and sucking the tart citrus chaser down. After a long week at work, the shot tasted like forgetfulness, something you craved.

Normally you were a bar girl. A comfy stool or deep booth where you could nurse a beer and sing along to the jukebox, well, that was about perfect. Now though, you were moving on the dancefloor, colored lights making you throw your hips one way and your arms another. It felt great to get all of your angst and frustration out. Smiling to yourself, you let it all go as the tequila kicked in, just one more person in this sea of souls, escaping into the rhythmic music.

You sense eyes on you, unfamiliar and strange, but can't find who they belong too. That's when you realize that your girls aren't next to you. No, you're on your own in the center of the crowd.

The music shifts then. An unfamiliar song pumps over the crowd, rolling across the room like bruised storm clouds, pushing the club even closer to total darkness. It's disorienting and you turn to find one of your friends before a bubble of panic surfaces.

"May I?" The voice is dark like tinted glass and it's so close you feel the whisper on your cheek. Taking a half step back you size up the man who has invaded your space.

He is smouldering. Tall, taller than you by a foot at least and solid but trim. You look him over slowly, surprised by his interest, questioning his intentions.

A perfectly fitting suit of crimson hugs his broad shoulders, a matching vest showcases his narrow waist. His shirt, jet black. There is no tie. Sweeping your gaze over his face you're caught in the pure fire blue of his eyes. You notice raven hair curling across his collar in long strands and there's an itch in your fingers to pull it.

He's offered you his hand and shyly you accept. It's an old fashioned move but you're flattered by it all the same. There's something very formal, antique even, about the stranger and his pristine manners. He seems otherworldly and totally out of place in the nightclub.

You feel his arm wrap around your waist firmly, heat arcing through you at the contact. The touch of his palm against yours straightens your back as you are lead through the dance. "You move well, little one." His rough praise ruffles your hair. Flushing pink at the compliment you embarrassingly murmur, "Thanks."

He stares at you in a ravenous, coveting way, as if he'd like nothing better than to eat you up. You know from his carnal smirk that he would enjoy devouring you, body and soul. Swallowing thickly under his intense scrutiny you realize that you would allow him to, if he wanted, and somehow he knows that too.

You glide across the floor easily, his steps sure and graceful, making it seem like you are a more capable dancer. Trusting him with control of your body, you follow where he leads, mindlessly acquiescing to his urges. Once you stumble but his form never falters, keeping a sacred space between your bodies, his feet tireless as they move in time to the music.

You find the polite distance from him frustrating. If this were any other club jumper, he'd have his hands on your body, grinding his hips into you, timing it to the bass drop. But your red suited suitor is not like that. He makes the most of what physical contact you do share and you have to admit that it's an intimate experience. His hand on your back, your fingers laced together, that primal look in his eyes as they pierce into yours.

To you, it feels like you are the only two bodies in motion, the crowd falling into shadow around you. Maybe it's a trick of the lights, maybe it's the tequila. Either way, you enjoy the movements and the moments you two share, even if no words are spoken.

Too soon, in your opinion, the song finishes. Your partner, releasing his grip on you, presses a gentle kiss to your cheek before parting. "Until we meet again, little one."

You find voice enough to murmur, "Wait... who are you?"

But it's too late. Your breath catches on a soft sob as you watch his long legs carry him into the throbbing crowd. Willing him to look back at you, your searching eyes follow that blazing suit as long as you can. He never turns his head.

For the rest of the night you keep one eye out for your mysterious man. You can feel residual heat from his hand on your back, the skin there marked by his touch but that's not the only place he's set on fire. It's as if your crimson king has found the half gone flame of your arousal and poured lighter fluid on it.

Suddenly your nipples are painfully hard, straining against the cloth prison of your boosting bra. The panties you picked out special because of the tiny witches on them were flooded with your honey. And you could feel the red heat of your unending blush radiating off of your cheeks.

You slam another tequila shot, barely feeling the burn as it slides down your throat, since every other part of you is on fire. Pushing off of the bar, away from your people without a word, you will yourself to walk straight to the ladies room. There's something you have to do and it has to be done now.

Luckily the bathroom is empty. The stalls here are wide with walls that touch the floor and you are so grateful because you need the privacy. You've never done anything like this before but you're too exhilarated to stop now.

Quickly locking the door, you take a deep breath before lifting your skirt. You don't bother taking off your undies. Instead you shift them to the side and moan when your finger connects with your clustered nerves. Resting your heeled boot against the toilet you gather some of your slick and tease it over your sensitive nub.

When you close your eyes you see your man in red. He's on his knees before you with those long fingers on your milky thighs. Imaging his wicked tongue working on your womanhood, you swear you can almost feel him in there with you.

Tipping your head back, you let out a moan, leaning into the wooden wall of your stall. You're close to release imagining the dashing dancer pressing into you with hard hips and soft lips. Panting now, a name you've never heard before, flashes through your mind. The letters pulse behind your closed eyes, growing in intensity at the same rate as your pleasure. Your alcohol addled brain blinks to an image. The face of your scarlet stranger, his lean look and hungry eyes, the scorching sensation of his touch.

"Loki" you say it once, almost a question, testing how it sounds, breathless, as your body tries to reach its peak. "Loki!" Louder, clearer, stronger as your fingers rub roughly over your sensitive silk. "LOKI!", raggedly you scream as your body comes apart quickly in delicious contractions and warm liquid.

Taking a moment to calm your frayed nerves, you collapse onto the toilet seat. With shaking legs and racing heart you curse, "Holy shit." Even in your bed at night your body has never been so quick to reach its pinnacle.

You stand and straighten yourself up, feeling a bit guilty about your self love session. The mirror hides nothing and reflected in the fluorescent light you see your smudged eyeliner and racooned mascara. Cool water and a paper towel help but anyone can see that you've unravelled.

Your lips are swollen, your hair tangled, your skin alternatively flushed and blushing. Desire coils in your belly, dark and sinful. It's shocking to think that even though you just experienced a spell of sensual relief you can already feel the knot of need tightening in you again.

You had to get out of here. Now. Making a mental checklist you start: get to your friends and then get home. Those are your pressing tasks.

Time was of the essence as your skin was in flames. Each breath you took seemed to burn heat through your body, settling ashen embers in your liquid core. Every touch from an unsuspecting crowd surfer brought you closer to cumming. The brush of the waitress against your side was enough to force your thighs together, clenching your teeth.

Your dress was too clingy. The boots you wore, too heavy. All of your layers chaffed against you. Naked. That's what you needed to be and to ensure that you didn't get arrested, you needed to get someplace private, now.

"Guys!" Trying to sound casual when you clearly weren't, your friends looked you over in a loving if judgemental way. "Listen, I need to split. Anyone else coming?"

Without pausing for an answer, you grab your bag and start walking. "Um... ok. Ok. I'll get a car then. See you later!" You bit your bottom lip as you open your phone's drive share app. Head down in concentration, you make your way through the maze of dancers and drinkers, when you feel it again. Not it, rather, him.

You stop dead in your tracks.

He's just outside the door and you know he's waiting for you. Squaring your shoulders, trying to hide your body's betrayal at seeing him so soon, you planned on ignoring him. But your feet moved on thier own, taking you right up to him, as if they no longer were listening to your directions. At your approach he turned, a smile curled over his full mouth, "Little one, need a lift?"

You nod, yes. Loki offers you his strong hand once more, ushering you into his waiting car. He keeps you close to his side with those long arms of his wrapped around you. Cuddling you towards his heavy heat, you sigh and settle in for the drive.

No words are said. His hand idly strokes over your arm. You rest your cheek to his chest. Anyone could have mistaken you for long time lovers rather than the perfect strangers you were.

When the car stops Loki steps out first, straightening his suit coat, then reaching out, helps you gain the sidewalk. He leads you to his building, tall and dark like the man himself, with wrought iron rails around the windows and aging but beautiful stonework. You're reminded of the Beast's castle, from that fairy tale, a gothic haunted place where love, against the odds, manages to grow.

"Are you coming little one?" Loki's voice is feather light but it commands you just the same. Dim lamps flicker on once you cross the threshold, but you pay no attention to what they illuminate. You're being led onward, on to the place you have agreed to go ever since you took Loki's hand on the dance floor.

Heavy doors open to reveal a large, well made bed in the center of the room, the iron headboard reaching for the ceiling. Blood red comforters and black quilts are piled high, like a nest, for the long man in the crimson suit. A fire, raging orange, is the only light in this place. The shadows it cast leaping around the room like the club goers you left behind.

"Dance with me, little one." A song, the same from earlier, begins to play from somewhere in the house. This time, without the eyes of others on you, Loki's grip on you is tighter, his body closer than before. As you spin in time to the music his hands roam freely over your back, down to your bottom, gripping you hard.

You feel as if your person is no longer yours, but rather an extension of him. How did you ever live without his scalding touch? Were you alive before feeling the heat of Loki's gaze on you? Overwhelmed by the intensity of his attention, you lower your lashes, afraid that he will see your shameless, wanting need.

Nosing against you, Loki turns your head to face him, "Little one, you should know, I have no plans to love you. No matter what. You can't make me love you."

Stuck to the roof of your mouth, your tongue is of no actual help. Your mind is struggling to make sense of his words, the weight of them, the tone. It's important, you think, but his blown pupils and full lips distract your thoughts.

"But I will make you mine." And then Loki's blazing lips are on yours, hungry and unrelenting, as they try to drink in all of you. Fiery fingers tangle in your hair, pulling it back harshly, as his tongue licks over your jugular vein. Nipping your ear painfully, Loki tells you, "Give yourself to me, little one. Do it freely and I will let you howl my name, just as you did when you played with your pretty pussy tonight!"

Snapping your head up at the mention of your bathroom debasement, Loki snickers, "You couldn't keep your hands off of your needy body, that's how desperate you were to be mine. Now you will have to prove it to me."

Your knees buckle against the bed. Loki's steered you right where he wants you, and with no effort on his part, he pushes you back on the blanketed bed. Flames burning behind him, Loki towers over you, half shadowed in the flickering light. You think you see red horns on his head, but no, that's just a trick of the fire light, right?

For a second your mind shifts, I should be afraid, you think. But then Loki begins slipping off your boots and kissing a scalding path over each of your calves. You bow up from the mattress as Loki bites on the tendon inside your knee. It's a sensitive and unexpectedly erotic place on your body so you moan softly at the searing contact.

Reaching for him, you want to pull Loki to you. You want to give him some of the pleasure he's giving to you. Every attempt is swatted away until your man in red scolds, "If you can't control yourself, I will tie you down and finish things my way. Be good, little one. Please."

You decide to lay on your hands, tucking them under you, lest you be tempted to touch Loki again. This earns you a devilish grin before he returns to his work. Reaching under your skirt, Loki locks his eyes on yours and rubs you over your panties.

"Oh, little one. You're body is ready to be claimed. Look at how eager you are to belong to me!" Loki can't hide his own elation at your body's response. He traces over your split lips with one of his stiff fingers, pressing firmly against your straining bud, causing you to groan harshly.

Again he pushes down on your pearl, circling it slowly over the thin cotton of your underwear. The fabric, rough and dragging, scrapes against your bundled nerves sending ripples of electricity shooting through your core. Loki hooks his finger under the soaked scrap tearing it from under you with a growl.

In a rush, the breathe leaves your lungs, cool air coursing over your swollen sex only adding to your arousal. Loki rises up again, crooning, "Look at me, little one. I want you to see."

Your eyes widen in shock as he snaps his fingers and your clothes are just gone. No zippers pulled down, no buttons undone, just disappeared. Instead of crying out, you sigh happily. Your overheated body is finally free of your constraining clothes.

Wriggling into the warmth of the bedclothes, Loki warns, "Lie very still, little one. Don't move." And you couldn't even if you wanted to. His words are steel chains that bind you to his bidding, keeping you soothed and silent, while he slowly sheds his suit.

If you thought Loki was striking in his impeccable clothes, you are gobsmacked by his nude figure. Finely muscled, more than masculine and frightening hard, his body glowed in the radiance of fire light. You sucked in a breath and exhaled with a whimper.

Stroking himself lazily, Loki leans onto the bed, that starving look back on his fine features. "On your knees, little one. It's time to take you." You don't know what he means exactly but your body responds regardless.

Loki massages your skin from the swell of your bottom, over your spine, and across your shoulders. Arching your back into his touch, you mewl, impatient to have more of him. Your hips rock back towards his, straining for the contact that has been promised since you met, when Loki swiftly fists your hair. Pulling your head back sharply he snarls into your ear, "Greedy little slut, aren't you?"

Before you can answer, Loki thrusts into you, fully sheathing himself to the hilt. You scream at the invasion. He's large and forceful, buried cruelly against your cervix, and not withdrawing. No, he pushes in deeper, grinding his pelvis into your buttocks. Loki's hands fan across your hips, sealing you together, preventing you from escaping his punishing thrusts.

"Oh no, little one, you'll take all I have to give and be grateful." Loki barked at you in time with his driving rhythm. His fingers start stroking your clit while Loki continues his assault on your quivering body.

Despite the hard use, your hips begged for more of him. With every forward snap from Loki your internal walls reached out to him. Your core was unwilling to be separated from his cock until ecstasy had been reached. Before long you were riding him, bouncing yourself on his impossibly hard shaft, shouting profanity in fits and starts.

"You think you're going to cum, my little hellion? You believe that this devilish brute will let you take your pleasure so easily?" You whimper pathetically, fearful that you will be denied your elation, worried that Loki has found a fault in you.

"Stop moving." Though it almost kills you, your muscles freeze at Loki's command. Teasing you, "Tell me, little one, who do you serve?"

Willing your whole body to behave, you answer, "You... you, Loki" Loki rewards you by pulling straight down on your overly sensitive nipples. When you cry out he laughs deeply, "That's right. I am your god now, little one, your dark master. And you belong to me. Now do your master's bidding and fuck me like the bitch in heat I know you truly are!"

His words drive your flame of desire into frenzy as you force yourself onto Loki's waiting steel over and over. He doesn't touch you, at least not with his hands, only your carnal flesh connects the pair of you. Mere moments of bucking against Loki have you coming undone. He knows how close you are, ordering you, "Tell everybody who your soul belongs to! Let them hear you in heaven, my wicked woman!"

"LOKI! LOKI! LOKI!" The word loses all meaning as it tumbles, repeatedly, from your blubbering lips like a mantra for your body's rapture. Pleasure courses through you like wild fire, out of control and unpredictable. It bends your back as you howl like an animal unchained.

Your black euphoria is followed by Loki's. He makes sure that your bodies are locked together in a punishing hold. Your forms melt into one as his hot release is spent inside you.

Sagging on sore elbows, no longer able to hold yourself up, you drop down onto the bed. Loki has bottomed out, stuttering after shocks rippling through you both, but he hasn't withdrawn yet. He lies, snuggled in your sinful embrace, enjoying the sight of your corruption splayed in front of him.

"Loki...?" Barely a whisper, it's the most you can manage with your raw throat.

"Yes?" He can't see your face, can't read your expression, but he is curious.

"Why me?"

Pulling out of you with a gush of your shared passion, Loki turns you onto your back, his blue eyes narrow. "Why you? Little one, you called to me. The murky, mucky parts of your soul that never see the light of day... they scream out, Loki! Your deviant, dark spirit, always ignored. Trampled on. No longer. Your savior is here, little one."

Your wet eyes held Loki's gaze, enraptured and enchanted, as he rolled off the bed. Quietly padding around the fire kissed room on his long legs, Loki stopped when he reached a desk hidden in the gloom. Groaning, the drawer he tugged gave way and after a moments rummaging, he strode towards you once more.

"Little one, I told you there was no love here. But there is pleasure... so much pleasure." Opening the black box for you, Loki presents you with choker of black leather, slim and dainty. "There is also pain, little one. Freeing, soaring pain... Now you must choose. Go, take your clothes and return home to your half life of cheap booze and disappointments or... stay and begin life anew at the side of your soul's true master."

Sitting on your hip, nude, lavender bruises painted on your fire kissed skin, Loki saw how beautifully broken you'd become while with him. For a fleeting second he imagined what loving you would be like, giving away his heart and taking yours in return. But the rage inside him would never let that happen. Could never let that happen.

No, to have you as his conquest would be enough. It had to be. But the choice was yours.

Your fingers brushed over the smooth leather of Loki's collar and all that came with its acceptance. The clothes you'd worn all night were in a folded pile, the last connection to your "normal" life. What to do, what to do?

"Loki...?"

"Yes, little one... have you decided already?" Loki tried to hide the expectation in his voice but you hear it. It's enough to make you smile softly.

You nod.

.............

Tagging my first peep! @iamverity, ❤ enjoy!!