emmyinjapan

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Exploring Nagasaki: A Church, Some Sky, and My Wallet Cried

I was wandering through Nagasaki the other day, taking in the sights and sounds of this beautiful city. There’s so much history here, from Gunkanjima (Battleship Island) to the poignant Glover Garden, that it’s easy to get swept up in it all. As I walked by Oura Church, one of Nagasaki's most famous landmarks, I thought to myself, I’ll pop in for a quick visit.

But then, as I approached, I saw the sign: 1000 yen entry fee. My first thought was, Ouch. I hesitated, looking at the price and wondering if it was really worth it. After all, I’d just paid 1800 yen for the Gunkanjima Distal Museum ticket, and I still had the Glover Garden entrance fee (650 yen) to cover. Add lunch and dinner into the equation, and suddenly, my budget was looking pretty tight. When I travel I set a budget for the day so I don't overspend...

I stood there for a moment, staring at the entrance, and then thought, I’ll give this a pass. Maybe next time I’ll splurge on the entry fee if I’m in the mood, but today wasn’t that day. I turned away, content to admire the church from the outside.

—Emmy

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Gunkanjima Digital Museum in Nagasaki

So, I recently visited the Gunkanjima Digital Museum — yes, the infamous Battleship Island, where the ruins of a once-bustling coal mining town now stand abandoned, eerie, and full of history. But before I dove into the haunting remnants of the island’s past, let’s talk about the price tag. At 1,800 yen, it’s a bit more than your average entry fee, and I’ll be honest — I felt a pinch in my wallet. I definitely wished it was a bit cheaper, but hey, my curiosity got the best of me, and I was determined to check it out.

So why is it so pricey? Well, Gunkanjima isn't your run-of-the-mill tourist destination. It was once a thriving coal mining hub where thousands of workers lived and laboured before the mines closed in the 1970s, leaving behind this now-ghostly island. Today, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage site, preserving the haunting ruins. The extra yen helps maintain the site (and possibly keeps the resident ghosts from wandering off the island).

While the admission fee might make you pause, the experience more than makes up for it. And here’s the kicker — I tried the VR experience at the museum, and it was absolutely amazing! There’s even a 3D stage to stand on, making you feel like you’re right there on the island, surrounded by its decaying buildings. It’s so realistic, you half expect to see a coal miner pop out from behind a crumbling wall.

So, yeah, while it’s more expensive than some other places, it’s not every day you get to step into a living piece of history. And in the end, the memories (and the spine-tingling stories) are priceless.

—Emmy

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Frozen Toes & Bad Life Choices: A Walk to Gunkanjima Digital Museum

Who knew a 30-minute walk on a freezing day could feel like an eternity? The serene waters of Nagasaki Bay mocked my shivering existence as I trudged along, questioning my life choices. I wore multiple layers, doubled my socks, and clutched a hot bottle of milk coffee like a lifeline, yet the icy wind cut through it all. Could I have taken a bus? Probably. Would that have been sensible? Absolutely. But where’s the adventure in that? By the time I reached the Gunkanjima Digital Museum, I was half-frozen but triumphant—if nothing else, I’d proven my talent for enduring unnecessary suffering in the name of exploration.

—Emmy

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Helicopter in Nagasaki

The first thing on my list was to walk to Gunkanjima Digital Museum. It was a 30-minute walk in the wind, and it was snowing a bit. I noticed this helicopter by a tower building while I held tightly onto my fresh, hot bottle of milk coffee that I had just gotten from a vending machine—a desperate cry to stay warm.

—Emmy長崎

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Nagasaki, we meet again!

Yesterday, I travelled to Nagasaki! Well, technically, it’s the fifth time I’ve been to Nagasaki since moving to Fukuoka, but those were all for work. This was actually the second time I’d visited this beautiful city for leisure. The first time was back in 2019, when I had no idea just how cold Nagasaki could get in February. Seriously, I think even my shadow was shivering. Having already checked out the Peace Park, the Atomic Bomb Museum, Suwa Shrine, Sanno Shrine, Sanno Shrine one-legged Torii Gate and the Nagasaki Koshibyo Confucius Shrine and Historical Museum of China, this time I was here with one goal in mind—the Lantern Festival! However, the festivities weren’t due to kick off until 5:30 pm, which meant I had the entire day to explore. Armed with comfortable shoes and an appetite for adventure (and snacks), I set off on my Nagasaki expedition.

—Emmy

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A red torii in the distance...

Do you see it? A red torii in the distance. A gateway between the physical and the spiritual, between the known and the mysterious. As I trudged through the freezing cold towards YOUME, a shopping centre inconveniently far from home, I spotted the torii peeking from between the bushes. Was it a divine sign, a test of endurance, or just another distraction from the warmth I desperately sought? Either way, my frozen feet had one goal—getting inside before turning into a human icicle. No matter where it stands, the red torii remains a profound emblem of passage and transformation, a silent invitation to step forward with intention and embrace the unknown.

—Emmy

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A Snowy Morning in Fukuoka

Fukuoka doesn’t get a lot of snow, but when it does, it makes sure to turn the city into a winter wonderland—or, in my case, a personal snow collection experiment. By the time I got to work, I looked like an abandoned snowman who had lost his way.

—Emmy

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Winter Peonies at Hakozaki Shrine – Part 2: Giant Gourds & Mesmerising Blooms

After braving the cold and questioning all my life choices (again), I continued my stroll through the Winter Peony Festival at Hakozaki Shrine. The garden was peaceful, serene, and had just the right amount of chill in the air to keep my nose permanently cold. But despite my steadily freezing fingers, I was absolutely mesmerised by the stunning colours of the peonies.

The peonies were bigger than my head, bursting with shades of deep crimson, soft blush pink, pure white, and even a few golden yellows. The sheer vibrancy of the flowers against the minimalist gravel garden made them look like works of art, carefully painted onto nature’s canvas. Some of them were so fluffy, they looked like they had been plucked straight out of a fairytale—or perhaps a very luxurious duvet.

Each bloom seemed to have its own personality—some stood tall and proud, others drooped slightly as if weighed down by their sheer beauty (relatable). And let’s not forget the ones peeking out from under their straw hats (warabocchi), looking like little nobles braving the winter in their fancy headgear. I could have spent hours just admiring the flowers… if not for the fact that I was slowly losing feeling in my toes.

As I made my way towards the exit, I came across something rather unusual—a large wooden gate with two absolutely massive Angoily Gourds (Yuwaku Hyōtan) hanging from it. I stopped in my tracks.

Now, I’ve seen plenty of shrine decorations before, but giant gourds were a first. I stood there for a good minute, just staring at them, trying to work out why they were there and more importantly, how they were even hanging up without snapping the whole structure in half. They were huge—as if someone had taken a regular-sized gourd and fed it a strict diet of shrine blessings and growth hormones.

After some quick reading (and shameless eavesdropping on a nearby visitor), I found out that these symbolic gourds are believed to bring good luck, health, and protection. In fact, gourds have a long history in Japan as a talisman for warding off evil. Considering how many people rub them for good fortune, I briefly considered doing the same—though I wasn’t sure if it was socially acceptable to start patting a shrine decoration.

Despite the cold, I left the shrine feeling warm inside (though still physically frozen). The Winter Peonies were breathtaking, the peaceful atmosphere was exactly what I needed, and the giant gourds? Well, they were just the cherry on top of a fascinating visit.

As I made my way back, I thought to myself—if I ever get a garden, I’m filling it with peonies. And maybe, just for fun, I’ll hang up a mysterious oversized gourd too. You know, for luck. 🌸🎐

—Emmy

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Winter Peonies at Hakozaki Shrine – Part 1: A Chilly but Beautiful Visit

It was a cold, dry, and ridiculously windy day, the kind where your face feels like it’s being gently sandblasted by nature. But despite the weather’s best efforts to turn me into an icicle, I was determined to visit the Winter Peony Festival at Hakozaki Shrine.

This annual flower event runs from New Year’s Day to mid-February, showcasing 200 peonies across 20 varieties, all blooming beautifully in the Flower Garden. As someone who absolutely loves peonies, orchids, and wisterias, I couldn’t miss it—especially since the flowers would start wilting soon. Time was of the essence!

When I arrived, the first thing I noticed was how quiet and peaceful it was. No crowds, no jostling for the best photo spots—just serene beauty and a crisp winter breeze trying its best to freeze my soul. I made my way to the entrance and happily paid the 500 yen fee—which, in my opinion, was a bargain for such a stunning display.

The garden itself is a work of art, designed in the style of a Japanese karesansui (dry landscape garden). The peonies stand proudly under traditional straw hats (warabocchi), which protect them from the harsh winter elements. The whole scene looks like something straight out of an Edo-period painting—delicate, elegant, and absolutely mesmerising.

Peonies, known as "botan" (牡丹) in Japanese, have been cherished in Japan for centuries. Originally introduced from China during the Nara period (710–794), they quickly became a symbol of wealth, nobility, and good fortune. The Japanese particularly admire the winter-blooming varieties, as they represent resilience and quiet strength—blooming despite the harsh conditions, much like I was attempting to do in my very underprepared outfit.

The Hakozaki Shrine Flower Garden isn’t just about peonies, either—it showcases a rotating selection of seasonal flowers throughout the year, making it a year-round paradise for plant lovers. But in winter, it’s these vibrant pinks, reds, and whites that steal the show, creating an enchanting contrast against the minimalistic gravel garden.

As I walked around, admiring the blooms and desperately wishing I’d worn one more layer, I couldn’t help but think—if a flower can thrive in this freezing weather, then surely, so can I… right? (Spoiler: My fingers were numb, but I pressed on.)

To be continued… 🌸❄️

—Emmy

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A Chilly but Peaceful Visit to Hakozakigu Shrine (筑前國一之宮 筥崎宮)

After braving the cold and questioning my life choices (and wardrobe decisions), I finally arrived at Hakozakigu Shrine. The moment I stepped through the grand entrance, I was enveloped in a peaceful silence, the kind that instantly makes you feel calm and reflective—or in my case, just grateful I wasn’t battling through tourist crowds.

This historic shrine dates back to 921 AD and is dedicated to Hachiman, the god of war and protection. It venerates Emperor Ojin, his mother Empress Jingu, and the female deity Tamayori-hime. Over the centuries, Hakozakigu has witnessed significant events, including the Mongol invasions of Japan. In fact, there's an inscription here that reads "Defeat the foreign invaders" (敵國降伏)—a direct nod to Japan’s legendary victory when a massive storm (or the "kamikaze" divine wind) helped wipe out the invading Mongol fleet. Basically, this shrine has seen some serious history.

But here’s something I’ve never encountered before at a shrine—you can wash your money at the temizuya (purification fountain)! Usually, these are for cleansing your hands and mouth before praying, but at Hakozakigu, you can give your coins a little spiritual refresh too. Whether this makes you richer or just gives you slightly soggy yen, I’m not sure—but I wasn’t about to risk ruining my wallet to find out!

Despite the sunshine, it was still absolutely freezing. The wind cut right through me, reminding me once again that a single HeatTech jumper and a hoodie were not enough—rookie mistake. But the crisp air and peaceful atmosphere made up for it. With fewer visitors in the afternoon, I could actually take my time wandering around without being nudged aside by eager photo-takers.

I took a deep breath, soaked in the winter sun, and for a moment, forgot how cold my fingers were. Sometimes, the best places to visit are the ones where you can just breathe, slow down, and appreciate the history around you—even if you’re slightly frozen in the process.

—Emmy

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A Chilly Monday Visit to Hakozaki Shrine – Running on Low Energy and Thin Layers

Where was I heading on a Monday afternoon? Good question. After working every single day last week, I finally got my two days off—Monday and Tuesday. But dragging myself out of bed that morning was a serious struggle. I was absolutely exhausted, my body protesting every move. Still, I somehow managed to peel myself off the futon, throw on some clothes, and make my way to the station.

My destination? Hakozaki Shrine (筑前國一之宮 筥崎宮). I wanted to visit a larger shrine that wasn’t completely overrun with tourists, somewhere calm and peaceful, especially in the afternoon. It’s only one train stop from Hakata Station, plus a 15-minute walk—easy enough, right? I hopped on the local train to Yoshizuka Station, and at just 170 yen one way, it was cheaper than taking the bus (and let’s be honest, far less of a hassle).

The train ride was quick, but as soon as I stepped outside, reality hit—it was freezing! I had severely underestimated the weather. I was only wearing a HeatTech jumper and a hoodie, which felt like a perfectly reasonable choice indoors but an absolute mistake outdoors. I should have added at least two more layers—maybe even another scarf and gloves for good measure.

As I made my way towards the shrine, shivering slightly but determined, I reminded myself that this was my well-earned time off—even if I was tired, cold, and possibly underdressed for the occasion. But hey, adventure waits for no one, and at least I’d get some fresh air… whether I liked it or not!

—Emmy

[emmyinjapan]

A Post-Work Feast – Trying Matsuya’s New Nabe!

After being released from work (yes, it felt that dramatic), I headed to my usual spot for a cheap and cheerful meal—Matsuya. There’s one conveniently near my home, though I sometimes mix things up with Yoshinoya or Sukiya. I usually stick to a gyudon because, let’s be honest, it’s delicious, affordable, and never lets me down.

But this time, I decided to live dangerously and try their new special: シュクメルリ鍋定食 (Creamy Garlic Chicken & Potato Pot Meal) for ¥1100. Now, the chicken and sweet potatoes? Absolutely lovely—tender, flavourful, and comforting. But the sauce…? Well, let’s just say it was a bit underwhelming. I was expecting a garlicky, creamy explosion of flavour, but instead, it felt a little too mild for my liking. Not terrible, but definitely not something I’d fight to order again.

Moral of the story? Sometimes, sticking to gyudon is the safest bet—but at least now I know!

—Emmy

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The Seaside Momochi Ice Rink – A Surprise Christmas Discovery! (Late Surprise)

So, I stumbled across an ice rink at Seaside Momochi, completely unaware it even existed. One minute, I was enjoying a seaside stroll, and the next, I was watching people either glide effortlessly or perform accidental interpretive dance moves on the ice. Apparently, this festive little gem has been here since Christmas, and somehow, I had absolutely no clue!

From what I’ve gathered, it’s sticking around until mid or late February, which means I still have time to dig out my trusty (and very dusty) Risports and get out there. Although, if I’m feeling lazy, I could just rent a pair—but let’s be honest, I’ve seen some truly horrifying sights of people putting their bare feet in those rental skates. Some things can’t be unseen. So, before this rink disappears, I’ll be out there, hopefully staying upright (I haven't practiced in a while) and definitely avoiding any questionable footwear decisions!

—Emmy

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The Giant Statues Outside Fukuoka City Museum – France, Is That You?

Before even stepping into the Fukuoka City Museum, I was met by four massive bronze statues standing outside, looking like they had some very important business to attend to. Their names? L'Éloquence, La Force, La Victoire, and La Liberté—which, as someone whose French is as rusty as an old bicycle, I had to Google. Turns out, they mean Eloquence, Strength, Victory, and Liberty—very grand, very serious, and not at all what I expected outside a museum in Japan.

These statues were actually originally made for a courthouse in Tokyo before finding their way to Fukuoka, where they now stand looking imposing and slightly judgemental. Whether they’re guarding the museum or just silently questioning my life choices, I’ll never know. One thing’s for sure—posing with them makes for a fantastic photo op, and if you stand just right, you might even look a little victorious yourself!

—Emmy

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My Unexpected Visit to the Hakata City Museum – With a Yoga Mat in Tow

So, I visited the Hakata City Museum—not exactly part of my grand master plan, but sometimes the best experiences happen by accident (or sheer exhaustion). I’d been working all week, and even Sunday wasn’t a day off—I had a half-day seminar for tour guides in the theatre room. By the end of it, rather than rush home, I thought, why not check out the museum? It was only 250 yen—an absolute bargain for some impromptu culture.

Now, the day before, I’d still been on a business trip, where I somehow ended up leading a yoga session for tour guides (don’t ask). So, I was lugging around my overnight bag, laptop, and a full-sized yoga mat—not exactly ideal museum-going gear. Thankfully, just to the left of the entrance, there were lockers for a refundable 100 yen. Large lockers were limited, but luck was on my side—one was free! I stuffed my belongings in, took a deep breath, and finally felt ready to soak up some history (instead of just my own exhaustion).

The museum held a fascinating collection of historical artefacts, but the floats and festival exhibits stood out the most—probably because they were the biggest things in the room. The Hakata Gion Yamakasa Festival, which I’d seen at Kushida Shrine, was featured in all its glory. But one particularly quirky Fukuoka tradition caught my attention: during a couple’s first New Year together, the man is expected to send a buri fish (yellowtail) to the woman’s family. A lovely gesture—unless you’re the poor delivery person stuck transporting it. This isn’t a custom across Japan either—people from other prefectures might be completely baffled by the idea of receiving a giant fish in the post.

By the end, I was absolutely shattered—yoga, seminars, and museum-hopping in one weekend? Who did I think I was? But honestly, it was well worth it. If you’re ever in Fukuoka, take an hour (and a 100-yen coin) and give this museum a visit. Just maybe leave the yoga mat at home.

—Emmy

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Hakata Gion Yamakasa Festival Float at the Fukuoka City Museum

Yesterday, I popped into the Fukuoka City Museum and came face-to-face with the Hakata Gion Yamakasa Festival Float—a beautifully decorated, solidly built masterpiece that, thankfully, I wasn’t expected to carry. This centuries-old festival, dating back over 770 years, sees teams of men (yes, only men) dashing through the streets of Hakata hoisting these hefty floats at full speed. Originally a ritual to drive out plagues—because medieval Japan had some interesting public health strategies—it has since evolved into a high-energy spectacle of strength and teamwork. The biggest one I’ve seen is at Kushida Shrine, the heart of the festival, where the floats stand in all their elaborate glory (and at a much more sensible, non-sprinting pace). If you like history with a side of sweat and speed, this is one to watch!

—Emmy

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Simple Things...

2 weeks ago, I had such a fulfilling weekend! Feeling so happy and free after spending time in Kitakyushu and Shimonoseki. I’ll be blogging about it soon—probably one of the most unexpected pleasures. I didn’t expect to fall in love with the place, but now I can’t wait to explore it more! On the way back in the late afternoon, I saw a bunch of busy birds in the tree. It really made me smile, and the fresh air made my soul feel light and free. There’s something magical about those simple moments, isn’t there?

—Emmy