tenjin-no-shinja

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Shrines at Tō-ji Temple

It's not uncommon to find Shinto shrines at Shingon temples. When I visited Tō-ji, I managed to find three. Plus a temple for the 7 Gods of Fortune (Shichifukujin 七福神)

Tō-ji Chinju Hachimangū 東寺鎮守八幡宮

Tō-ji Yashima Shaden 東寺八島社殿

Also found this small Inari Shrine near one of the sub-temples.

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Kamidana Collection 2022

Always nice to have a variety of offerings, I regularly tried to have fresh fruit, or at least nice flowers to offer the kami.

Not a kamidana picture, but I had a long distance pet blessing done for my dog Zoya by Hawaii Dazaifu Tenmangū, and was sent these photos. So for folks who are worried about not being able to participate in shrine activities, that's something that's always doable.

Offering of the first ears of rice. This was the year I made my own rice paddy in the backyard and grew japonica rice. It was a lot of fun and really cool experiment. One that I hope I'll be able to do again someday.

Candles are always a nice touch to a kamidana. I was told they should ideally be scentless. I also try to make sure my candles are beeswax just to add to that natural aspect of it all.

Also another non-kamidana pic, but my parents were fine with me putting up a kumade rake near the family photos for blessings.

Hope you found inspiration or reassurance with these photos!

[tenjin-no-shinja]

Connecting with the Kami through Nature

Nothing like praying in nature. One of the things we always tell beginners to Shinto, is to really get an idea of your local natural spaces. Go hiking, walking, and just listen to the world around you. It is one of the easiest ways to bond with kamisama.

Today I went hiking in our local reservoir forest, not only was it stunning, but I found a nice quiet place and a log to sit on and recite our prayers.

I also was able to get some of my Buddhist practice in via prayer beads. Ended up reciting mantras for 7 whole rotations of the beads while walking through the woods: 3 rotations of Dainichi Nyōrai's mantra 3 rotations of Kannon Bosatsu's mantra 1 rotation of Myōken Bosatsu's mantra.

Truly I feel at peace and it was nice to stretch my legs in such a beautiful place.

[tenjin-no-shinja]

A Chilly but Peaceful Visit to Hakozakigu Shrine (筑前國一之宮 筥崎宮)

After braving the cold and questioning my life choices (and wardrobe decisions), I finally arrived at Hakozakigu Shrine. The moment I stepped through the grand entrance, I was enveloped in a peaceful silence, the kind that instantly makes you feel calm and reflective—or in my case, just grateful I wasn’t battling through tourist crowds.

This historic shrine dates back to 921 AD and is dedicated to Hachiman, the god of war and protection. It venerates Emperor Ojin, his mother Empress Jingu, and the female deity Tamayori-hime. Over the centuries, Hakozakigu has witnessed significant events, including the Mongol invasions of Japan. In fact, there's an inscription here that reads "Defeat the foreign invaders" (敵國降伏)—a direct nod to Japan’s legendary victory when a massive storm (or the "kamikaze" divine wind) helped wipe out the invading Mongol fleet. Basically, this shrine has seen some serious history.

But here’s something I’ve never encountered before at a shrine—you can wash your money at the temizuya (purification fountain)! Usually, these are for cleansing your hands and mouth before praying, but at Hakozakigu, you can give your coins a little spiritual refresh too. Whether this makes you richer or just gives you slightly soggy yen, I’m not sure—but I wasn’t about to risk ruining my wallet to find out!

Despite the sunshine, it was still absolutely freezing. The wind cut right through me, reminding me once again that a single HeatTech jumper and a hoodie were not enough—rookie mistake. But the crisp air and peaceful atmosphere made up for it. With fewer visitors in the afternoon, I could actually take my time wandering around without being nudged aside by eager photo-takers.

I took a deep breath, soaked in the winter sun, and for a moment, forgot how cold my fingers were. Sometimes, the best places to visit are the ones where you can just breathe, slow down, and appreciate the history around you—even if you’re slightly frozen in the process.

—Emmy

[tenjin-no-shinja]

Winter Peonies at Hakozaki Shrine – Part 1: A Chilly but Beautiful Visit

It was a cold, dry, and ridiculously windy day, the kind where your face feels like it’s being gently sandblasted by nature. But despite the weather’s best efforts to turn me into an icicle, I was determined to visit the Winter Peony Festival at Hakozaki Shrine.

This annual flower event runs from New Year’s Day to mid-February, showcasing 200 peonies across 20 varieties, all blooming beautifully in the Flower Garden. As someone who absolutely loves peonies, orchids, and wisterias, I couldn’t miss it—especially since the flowers would start wilting soon. Time was of the essence!

When I arrived, the first thing I noticed was how quiet and peaceful it was. No crowds, no jostling for the best photo spots—just serene beauty and a crisp winter breeze trying its best to freeze my soul. I made my way to the entrance and happily paid the 500 yen fee—which, in my opinion, was a bargain for such a stunning display.

The garden itself is a work of art, designed in the style of a Japanese karesansui (dry landscape garden). The peonies stand proudly under traditional straw hats (warabocchi), which protect them from the harsh winter elements. The whole scene looks like something straight out of an Edo-period painting—delicate, elegant, and absolutely mesmerising.

Peonies, known as "botan" (牡丹) in Japanese, have been cherished in Japan for centuries. Originally introduced from China during the Nara period (710–794), they quickly became a symbol of wealth, nobility, and good fortune. The Japanese particularly admire the winter-blooming varieties, as they represent resilience and quiet strength—blooming despite the harsh conditions, much like I was attempting to do in my very underprepared outfit.

The Hakozaki Shrine Flower Garden isn’t just about peonies, either—it showcases a rotating selection of seasonal flowers throughout the year, making it a year-round paradise for plant lovers. But in winter, it’s these vibrant pinks, reds, and whites that steal the show, creating an enchanting contrast against the minimalistic gravel garden.

As I walked around, admiring the blooms and desperately wishing I’d worn one more layer, I couldn’t help but think—if a flower can thrive in this freezing weather, then surely, so can I… right? (Spoiler: My fingers were numb, but I pressed on.)

To be continued… 🌸❄️

—Emmy

[tenjin-no-shinja]

Winter Peonies at Hakozaki Shrine – Part 2: Giant Gourds & Mesmerising Blooms

After braving the cold and questioning all my life choices (again), I continued my stroll through the Winter Peony Festival at Hakozaki Shrine. The garden was peaceful, serene, and had just the right amount of chill in the air to keep my nose permanently cold. But despite my steadily freezing fingers, I was absolutely mesmerised by the stunning colours of the peonies.

The peonies were bigger than my head, bursting with shades of deep crimson, soft blush pink, pure white, and even a few golden yellows. The sheer vibrancy of the flowers against the minimalist gravel garden made them look like works of art, carefully painted onto nature’s canvas. Some of them were so fluffy, they looked like they had been plucked straight out of a fairytale—or perhaps a very luxurious duvet.

Each bloom seemed to have its own personality���some stood tall and proud, others drooped slightly as if weighed down by their sheer beauty (relatable). And let’s not forget the ones peeking out from under their straw hats (warabocchi), looking like little nobles braving the winter in their fancy headgear. I could have spent hours just admiring the flowers… if not for the fact that I was slowly losing feeling in my toes.

As I made my way towards the exit, I came across something rather unusual—a large wooden gate with two absolutely massive Angoily Gourds (Yuwaku Hyōtan) hanging from it. I stopped in my tracks.

Now, I’ve seen plenty of shrine decorations before, but giant gourds were a first. I stood there for a good minute, just staring at them, trying to work out why they were there and more importantly, how they were even hanging up without snapping the whole structure in half. They were huge—as if someone had taken a regular-sized gourd and fed it a strict diet of shrine blessings and growth hormones.

After some quick reading (and shameless eavesdropping on a nearby visitor), I found out that these symbolic gourds are believed to bring good luck, health, and protection. In fact, gourds have a long history in Japan as a talisman for warding off evil. Considering how many people rub them for good fortune, I briefly considered doing the same—though I wasn’t sure if it was socially acceptable to start patting a shrine decoration.

Despite the cold, I left the shrine feeling warm inside (though still physically frozen). The Winter Peonies were breathtaking, the peaceful atmosphere was exactly what I needed, and the giant gourds? Well, they were just the cherry on top of a fascinating visit.

As I made my way back, I thought to myself—if I ever get a garden, I’m filling it with peonies. And maybe, just for fun, I’ll hang up a mysterious oversized gourd too. You know, for luck. 🌸🎐

—Emmy

[tenjin-no-shinja]

Japan Shrine Sees 1st Female Priests in its 800-Year History; Shrine Plans to Hire More on Regular Basis from This Year

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Goshuin Collection 11

Mibu-dera

Kandaijin Jinja

Ginkakuji (my host mother told me this is the one real Kyoto residents prefer, and that a lot of folks think the gold one Kinkakuji is gaudy and tacky)

Mirokuin Jizō Bosatsudō

Kumano Nyakuōji Jinja

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Cute Animal Statues at Ōtoyo Shrine

This shrine is kinda unique in that the 3 main Gosaijin are Sukunabikona no Mikoto, Emperor Ōjin, and Sugawara no Michizane. :D

also check out this huge sacred tree they had on the grounds

And of course the really cute Goshuin with little mice on it!!

[tenjin-no-shinja]

Ryueiinari-jinja: A Hidden Inari Shrine in the Heart of Tokyo・隆栄稲荷神社：下谷神社の境内に佇む小さな稲荷社

Ryueiinari-jinja is a small shrine dedicated to Inari, the deity of rice cultivation and harvest. This made me wonder—why would an Inari shrine be located in this urban Tokyo neighborhood, a city that has been a major metropolis for over a century?

By the mid-1800s, Edo (modern-day Tokyo) had a population exceeding one million, making it one of the largest cities in the world at the time. Yet, some areas still remained dedicated to agriculture.

Looking at historical maps from 1824 and 1854, I found numerous rice paddies and Inari shrines concentrated in what is now Asakusa. By 1854, urbanization had spread, with fewer rice fields and a noticeable decline in Inari shrines—today, no agricultural land remains in the area.

Yet, Ryueiinari-jinja endures. While the fields have vanished, the shrine continues to serve the community, preserving its historical and spiritual significance.

Though small, this shrine offers a fascinating glimpse into Tokyo’s past—when agriculture and urban life coexisted, and where traditions persist despite a changing landscape.

Full write-up (1-min read) with links to sources: https://www.pix4japan.com/blog/20241210-inari

Location: Shitaya Shrine Grounds, Taito-ku, Tokyo Timestamp: 14:38・2024/12/10 Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter ISO 1250 for 1/30 sec. at ƒ/10 Astia/Soft film simulation

[tenjin-no-shinja]

Hakata Gion Yamakasa Festival Float at the Fukuoka City Museum

Yesterday, I popped into the Fukuoka City Museum and came face-to-face with the Hakata Gion Yamakasa Festival Float—a beautifully decorated, solidly built masterpiece that, thankfully, I wasn’t expected to carry. This centuries-old festival, dating back over 770 years, sees teams of men (yes, only men) dashing through the streets of Hakata hoisting these hefty floats at full speed. Originally a ritual to drive out plagues—because medieval Japan had some interesting public health strategies—it has since evolved into a high-energy spectacle of strength and teamwork. The biggest one I’ve seen is at Kushida Shrine, the heart of the festival, where the floats stand in all their elaborate glory (and at a much more sensible, non-sprinting pace). If you like history with a side of sweat and speed, this is one to watch!

—Emmy

[tenjin-no-shinja]

Hachi Shrine 八神社

Located near the Philosopher's Path in Kyoto it enshrines 8 kami associated with the beginnings of Kojiki and the Nihonshoki texts.

Takamimusubi no Kami 高御産日神

Kamimusubi no Kami 神産日神

Ikumusubi no Kami 生産日神

Tarumusubi no Kami 足産日神

Tamatsumemusubi no Kami 玉積産日神

Ōmiyame 大宮売

Miketsu no Kami 御食津神

Kotoshironushi no Kami 事代主神

The Divine Virtues Associated with the Shrine Are:

Fulfillment of Wishes

Warding off Evil

Warding off misfortunes caused by the house's feng shui, direction, and weather.

Warding off Disaster

They also had side shrines for Inari Ōkami and Takaokami no Kami.

From the sign explaining the shrine (translated using DeepL):

"The head shrine is said to have been established in the Daido period (800-8007 AD) at the beginning of the Heian period (794-1185), and celebrated its 1,200th anniversary in the year 2007. However, in 1858, the entire village of Jodoji was destroyed by fire, including old documents, and the exact history of the shrine is not known.

However, in the "Shosha Nemoto Ki," it is written that on December 26, Engi 5 (905), a ceremony was held under the hall at Kaimine, Atago County, Yamashiro Province.

The later text states, "On the 26th day of the 12th month of the 5th year of Engi (105), the shrine will enshrine and enshrine 2,132 deities at the Kagionsaijo place in Kaimine, Atago County, Yamashiro Province.

In the text that follows, the eight temples of repose are located at the Aka-Kamiginomiya Shrine. It is located to the west of the present Nijo Shrine. It was moved to Yoshida Kaguraoka in the 16th year of Emperor Tsuchimikado's reign (1484). The following is the history of the shrine.

It is thought that the gods that had been enshrined by the Shinto priests in Engi 5 were enshrined at the site of a shrine that had long been enshrined as a local deity in the Jodo-ji area. The Tugashitaisha shrine in Soden also seems to have been enshrined sometime between the late Heian period (794-1185) and the Kamakura period (1192-1333), when the Hiei and Hiyoshi-taisha shrines were greatly expanding their power. At least by the time Ashikaga Yoshimasa built the Higashiyama-den in the Muromachi period (1333-1573), the eight shrines were enshrined as two main halls, eight deities in the east and Mashitaisha in the west, according to an illustration in the collection of Jishoji Temple.

Even after the eight temples were moved to Yoshida Kaguraoka (present-day Yoshida Shrine Omotomiya) in the 16th year of Bunmei Era (1618), it is believed that the eight deities of the eight temples continued to be enshrined there as they had been since the Heian Era (794-1185).

Today, the shrine is widely revered as the guardian of the Jodoji temple area and Jishoji temple."

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Subtle Craftsmanship of Shitaya Shrine・下谷神社の唐破風と飾金具・小口金物

The Shitaya Shrine in Higashi-Ueno, Tokyo’s Taito Ward, caught my eye with its use of a curved gable called karahafu. This elegant architectural feature has been used on the roofs of Shinto shrines, Buddhist temples, and even Japanese castles since the late Heian period (794–1185), originally signifying prestige and importance.

I was particularly drawn to the ornamental fittings. The golden accents contrast beautifully with the dark, aged wood, creating a harmonious balance between decoration and simplicity. Unlike more elaborate shrine embellishments, the metalwork here is used sparingly—enhancing the shrine’s elegance without feeling excessive.

Such fittings are often made of iron, copper, or gilt bronze. While they serve a decorative purpose, they also reinforce and protect structural elements, ensuring the longevity of the shrine’s intricate craftsmanship.

Full write-up with links to sources for further reading (1-minute read): https://www.pix4japan.com/blog/20241210-shrine

Timestamp: 14:32・2024/12/10 Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter ISO 160 for 1/30 sec. at ƒ/10 Classic Chrome film simulation

Timestamp: 14:44・2024/12/10 Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter ISO 160 for 1/30 sec. at ƒ/3.6 Astia/Soft film simulation

Timestamp: 14:45・2024/12/10 Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter ISO 160 for 1/30 sec. at ƒ/3.6 Provia/Standard film simulation

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Floral Panda at Shitaya Shrine’s Water Font・下谷神社の花手水：パンダの彩り✨🐼🌸

Most Shinto shrines include a small, roof-covered purification font called a temizuya (手水舎; sometimes read chōzuya). During the pandemic, many temizuya were temporarily closed to prevent the spread of infection and repurposed as a flower vessel, filling the water basin with freshly cut flowers.

The beautifully arranged flowers now attract visitors of all ages, leading to the temizuya being affectionately renamed hanachōzu (花手水; hana meaning flower and chōzu meaning water font). Shitaya Shrine, where this photo was taken, often incorporates a panda motif in its floral arrangements. This is a nod to the twin pandas, Xiao Xiao and Lei Lei, who reside at the nearby Ueno Zoo.

While the scene is cluttered with lines, patterns, and colors—much like the energy of a Tokyo neighborhood—narrowing my focus to just the flowers brings a sense of calmness and joy. It’s heartwarming to think that someone carefully arranges these flowers simply for the enjoyment of shrine visitors.

Full write-up with links to sources for further reading (1-minute read): https://www.pix4japan.com/blog/20241210-hanachozu

Location: Shitaya Shrine, Taito-ku, Tokyo Timestamp: 14:37・2024/12/10 Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter ISO 500 for 1/30 sec. at ƒ/10 Astia/Soft film simulation

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Hanjōsha Shrine 繁昌神神社

Enshrines the three Munakata Goddesses, 三神の宗像女神: Takiribime no Mikoto 多紀理毘売命, Tagitsuhime no Mikoto 多岐都比売命, and Ichikishimahime no Mikoto 市杵島姫命. During the Edo Period it was a Shingon temple, and enshrined Harisaijo 頗梨采女, the consort of Emperor Gozu. People would pray to her for good relationships. Nowadays the shrine has a stronger connection to commerce, and people go here to pray for protection of their businesses. It also has connections to Benzaiten.

Another interesting feature of the shrine is that is offers candles for specific blessings, like good relationships, or getting money, etc..

Goshuin

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Shinsen-en 神泉苑

This is actually a Buddhist temple, however it had several Shinto shrines on its grounds and is linked to Shinto. It is also the site of the first ritual to appease angry, restless spirits, commonly called Goryō.

They have a variety of animals on the grounds, including pigeons and koi!

Zennyo Ryū-ō Shrine 善女竜王社

The Emperor asked Kōbō Daishi to pray here and carry out rituals to rain kami Zennyo. I also saw several ducks here, bright white and quite large. Which was very fun!

They also had the following shrines on their grounds:

Rakuchu Tenmangū 洛中天満宮

Yatsurugi Inari Shrine 矢剣稲荷社

And of course here's the Goshuin!

[tenjin-no-shinja]

Returning to Sumiyoshi Shrine: A Nostalgic Visit Under the Evening Lights

There’s something magical about returning to a place after years away. This time, I revisited Sumiyoshi Shrine in Fukuoka, but instead of a fleeting daytime visit, I lingered until the evening lights flickered on. Seven years ago, on my first-ever trip to Fukuoka, this shrine was one of my very first stops. I still remember that visit vividly—mostly because it was absolutely freezing. It had been snowing, the kind of cold that makes you question your life choices, and I was shivering my way through the shrine grounds, trying to appreciate the beauty while wondering if I’d ever regain feeling in my fingers.

This time, however, the experience couldn’t have been more different. It felt warm—not just in temperature, but in atmosphere. Maybe it was the gentle glow of the lanterns, or maybe it was the fact that I was returning to a place that had become quietly special to me. Either way, standing there as the evening settled in, I couldn’t help but feel a little sentimental (which, let’s be honest, doesn’t happen often unless food is involved).

For those unfamiliar, Sumiyoshi Shrine is one of Fukuoka’s most historic and culturally significant Shinto shrines. Dedicated to the Sumiyoshi deities, protectors of sailors and travellers, the shrine has been a place of worship for over a thousand years. It’s actually part of a trio of major Sumiyoshi Shrines in Japan, alongside the ones in Osaka and Shimonoseki. Historically, samurai would visit before setting off on voyages, hoping for divine protection—though I imagine they weren’t as preoccupied with getting good shots as modern visitors are.

What makes this shrine particularly charming is its peacefulness. Unlike some of Japan’s more tourist-packed shrines, Sumiyoshi Shrine in Fukuoka retains a sense of quiet dignity. The towering trees, the elegant wooden structures, and the beautifully curved bridge over the pond all add to its serene appeal. And at night? Absolutely stunning. As the lanterns switched on, casting a soft golden glow over the grounds, the whole place took on an almost dreamlike quality. A far cry from my frostbitten first visit.

I stood there for a while, just taking it all in. There’s something comforting about seeing a place again after so long, realising that while so much in life changes, some places remain steadfast and familiar. Maybe that’s why it felt warmer this time—or maybe I just packed better clothing. Either way, Sumiyoshi Shrine remains one of my favourite spots in Fukuoka, and now I can say I’ve seen it in both snow and soft evening light.

Perhaps in another seven years, I’ll return again—hopefully without needing to tiptoe to touch the sumo god statue this time.

—Emmy