#what about winter? what about menswear? what about work clothes? what if you dont want to wear high fashion? what abt butches?

[earth-wyrms]

Its related to the idea that "sustainable" cannot be decoupled from "ethical" without lying. Sustainability requires humans to be part of the equation literally from the ground up. I dont give a shit if your product is carbon neutral or made out of 100% recycled materials or part of a tree planting initiative if the water being used to make it is stolen, if the people working your factories go home with rattling lungs, if the dyes used for your clothes are dumped directly into the river.

The post-scarcity queer communist space utopia cannot happen unless youre really willing to take a dirty look at how your materials are gathered and processed.

Like, its a really cool aesthetic but its not a philosophy with teeth. For an idea with the -punk suffix it sure is cute and nonthreatening and marketable and easy as hell to greenwash. Hell, with enough good package design and yogurt in little clay pots you could convince me weve already done it.

I can’t explain it but a lot of “Ghibli-inspired” stuff is bad in the same way a lot of Solarpunk is bad

[by-danilenihan-blog]

NICHE BRAND

Established in 2017, Jacob Kane is a new menswear brand producing bold and unique clothing for the creative youth. Originally from Preston, Founder and designer Jacob graduated from Manchester School of Art earlier this year with a first class honours degree in Fashion Design. There he gained knowledge in manual pattern cutting, block development and industrial production which were vital elements to setting up his own brand. Prior to this Jacob had studied a foundation diploma in art and design and had a keen interest in styling and fashion journals. During his time at Manchester School of Art, Jacob temporarily moved to London to spend two seasons interning with Christopher Shannon, this experience finalised his decision to set up his own brand producing urban and unique men’s wear. (JacobKane.co.uk 2017)

Jacob Kane collections are heavily research led, this is shown by mood boards of various inspirations on the brands Instagram page. Jacob says “"I systematically take pictures on my phone as soon as something catches my attention and I then collages and I think about how I could apply it on a basic garment.”(Jacob Kane 2017) The brands identity is simple and minimalist yet bold and eye catching. The collections often feature bold primary colours with neutral earthy tones to create “The complete Jacob Kane experience”. (Jacob Kane 2016)

The latest collection ‘Unite or Perish’ features oversized streetwear, layering, printed t shirts and patch work style denims. It includes a strong colour pallet of blacks whites and reds. Its inspiration comes from the political state of Britain during Brexit and the lack of unity amongst youth as well as being heavily influenced by Jacob’s own taste and style, he says “The result is a collection that is a comment on my interests and inspirations, as well as a statement about where I think we stand as the youth of today.” (JacobKane.co.uk 2017) As well as being influenced by politics, the pockets and straps on some of the garments have been specifically measured and made for the items young people may carry, for example a wallet, a pack of cigarettes, lighter and phone. Jacob intended for this to look like the garment had been transformed into a survival kit.

The photo shoot for Unite or Perish is displayed on the Jacob Kane website. It is set in a car garage with bare brick wall backdrops and a red Ferrari car cover that compliments the clothing perfectly. The use of a film camera typed filter and red lighting gives it an urban and modern effect.

Prior to creating the first official collection Unite or Perish, Jacob Kane produced 3 collections which are also displayed on the brand website. The first being a Realisation project called ‘A Girl is a Gun’ which features bold black line prints, industrial straps and bright pink fleece and fur, this collection was inspired by female nudity. After this came ‘Keep it moving’ which included patch work denim, big rivets and laced up rope.  The most recent design work was a Motion project, where the first idea of compartment pockets were from, this idea was later expanded in Unite or Perish. (JacobKane.co.uk)

Jacob describes his target audience as a ‘tribe’ that aim to define the term modern, they are young and creative and would be found “shopping in the back streets of Harajuku or at the opening of a new gallery in Antwerp.” He says “The Jacob Kane made and crafted tribe are a curious bunch. The modern youth personified, they do as they like and like what they do”. (Jacob Kane 2016)

The brand take pride in using the best quality fabrics sourced from London, Italy and Portugal. All Products are produced and quality checked in the brands studios in Manchester. As the founder and designer, Jacob oversees and controls every aspect of the company from designing to accounting and purchases. He says “A lot of creatives underestimate the little time you'll spend with their product. If you start alone, like me, you will spend most of your time sending emails, talking with your suppliers, photographers, etc. You really have to be prepared for that."(Jacob Kane 2017)

The Jacob Kane website is minimal black and white and features many captivating shoot photos from different collections. The online store offers various items that fit perfectly together with bold primary colours and oversized fit. There are printed logo t shirts and caps, detailed panelled hoodies with draw string and D ring zip features and variety of panelled denim jeans and jackets.

Although the brand itself is still in its early stages, Jacob Kane has gained a couple of accounts of good publicity. A major breakthrough moment for the brand was when HighSnobiety.com (an online publication, with over 1.5 million Instagram followers, that covers trends and news in fashion, music, art and culture) shortlisted Jacob Kane as one of their ‘9 upcoming brands to check out this month’. Jacob Kane was amongst brands such as Official Fake from Japan and the Swedish brand ADNYM ATELIER.  This was published in early august of this year and discusses the successes of the brand so far, it says, “The result is distinctly wearable staples exacted with decadent details — whether it’s a wide cut or statement zipper.”(Highsnobiety.com 2017) The article also has a summary of the key pieces of the first collection, here it mentions the signature oversized patch work denim jacket and overblown striped shirt. The most recent account of publicity was an interview with Konbini, a multi format worldwide media company specializing in all things pop culture. The media company (who have over 3 million followers on Facebook) interviewed Jacob prior to his first collection release and asked how it felt being a new designer in the industry. He tells them that he intends to be the only distributor of his products to start with, as he wants the brand to grow slowly and organically. (Konbini.com July 2017)

However after producing a strong first collection as a brand, Jacob Kane found its first stockists in Sydney, Australia. The store Subtype stocks sneaker and contemporary brands such as Nike, Filling Pieces, Adidas and Common Projects, their websites states “We at SUBTYPE are constantly Inspired by the individual way our customers and friends dress. SUBTYPE strives to bring you a mix of brands and limited releases that are not offered elsewhere in Australia.(subtype.com July 2017)

For most brands, social media has become the best form of advertisement and promotion, this is the same for Jacob Kane, with a growing following of 10.9 thousand on Instagram, it is vital that as a brand they stay active, they do this by constantly sharing mood boards, colour pallets, design ideas, toiles and finally the finished garments and campaign shoots. Jacob Kane have recently held a competition to win a logo T shirt from the Unite or perish collection on Instagram, all the followers had to do was share the post onto their profiles to be entered. This welcomed many other social media users to check out the brand and proved a successful way to promote themselves as well as gaining potential customers. 

There are many other brands that have presented similar designs this Autumn/Winter, including Christopher Shannon who has produced a collection with consistent use of patch work and panels, Oamc have also produced over sized jackets and coats in dark fabrics, similar to Jacob Kane, as well as Dior creating oversized coats in red and black.

Personally, I really like the style in which Jacob thinks and the designs he has produced so far. I particularly like the fluid use of oversizing and patch work. I feel as a brand it sits in the affordable luxury brand category, the prices range from £45 to £365. I would say this is reasonable pricing for a small brand because it is all made and designed with such detail and precision, products aren’t yet being produced in a mass scale and are limited and rare, however if the brand begins to grow and starts producing in a factory scale, the pricing may decrease. I think Jacob Kane is currently a niche brand, the garments are made to appeal to a small percentage of buyers, the consumers aren’t afraid to be bold and wear eye catching statement clothing. The clothes produced aren’t something you would find in high street stores like Top Man, River Island and Zara.

    http://www.konbini.com/fr/tendances-2/jacob-kane-jeune-createur-anglais-dont-on-entendra-bientot-parler/ http://www.highsnobiety.com/2017/08/01/new-fashion-brands-chenghui-zhang-official-fake/

https://www.artsthread.com/profile/jacobkane/

https://www.subtypestore.com/subtype-events/

https://www.instagram.com/jacobkaneuk/

https://www.jacobkane.com/shop/

[vdbstore-blog]

New Post has been published on Vintage Designer Handbags Online | Vintage Preowned Chanel Luxury Designer Brands Bags & Accessories

New Post has been published on http://vintagedesignerhandbagsonline.com/model-of-the-moment-paul-hameline-i-dont-know-why-people-would-want-to-look-at-me-fashion/

Model of the moment Paul Hameline: “I don’t know why people would want to look at me" | Fashion

A hot, sticky June evening in Paris and model Paul Hameline is at a party, drinking warm wine from a plastic cup. It’s men’s fashion week and Le Marais is thick with models fresh off the Dries Van Noten catwalk. Not Hameline, though. Blue-eyed, with echoes of Richard Hell, this model is alone, looking bored, in a T-shirt that reads: No Heart Inside. He’s sacked off part of fashion week to be at the private party of photographer Pierre-Ange Carlotti’s exhibition. The T-shirt is by Carlotti.

He’s not actually bored. The coolest models tend to emit a certain ennui and Hameline is probably the coolest in fashion right now. Male supermodels are rare, and famous faces that deviate from mainstream ideals are even rarer. They tend to be either cartoonish (David Gandy, Lucky Blue Smith) or anonymously good-looking (Sean O’Pry, Jon Kortajarena). Vanity and grooming don’t sit well with smoking, basement parties and insouciance.

So Hameline is a rarity then. He’s the original Vetements muse and the collective’s influence makes this significant. His ascent has been exponential – he first walked for Vetements in 2014 and has carefully picked every job since. He models for only a handful of shows: Marni, Prada, Balenciaga, JW Anderson.

Paul and friends: models Jamie Bochert, Mica Arganaraz, Julia Nobis, Paul Hameline, Clara Deshayes outside the Sies Marjan show at the New York State Bar Association in 2016. Photograph: Melodie Jeng/Getty Images

Fame baffles him: “I’m not even commercial looking,” he despairs. But it’s precisely this look – an androgynous, post-binary beauty with a flaw (in his case, a small dimple under his bottom lip) – that has made him menswear’s most in-demand face, and may explain why he’s finally hit mainstream and become the new face of Hugo Boss. He seems taller than his 6ft 1in, possibly because of the way he stands, Giacometti-like, incredibly slight, but sexy.

The idea of beauty being a static notion is deeply Americanised and, thanks to social media, has become the norm, says Alice Pfeiffer, a French fashion journalist and friend of Hameline’s. “But in France, we have always been good at celebrating the alternative.” He, she says, is the male incarnation of this philosophy.

“I don’t like just modelling,” he says. “I don’t consider it my main profession, and I never thought I’d make money from it.” Boredom scares him. “I have to keep busy or I get depressed.” His CV includes styling, studying art, acting, making zines inspired by cult cinema and designing prints for Ann Demeulemeester.

Hameline on the catwalk at Paris Fashion Week. Photograph: Estrop/Getty Images

Hameline prefers meeting people face to face. It’s easy to see why. Context is key – he talks about models as “empty vessels” and about eating a bowl of blueberries for breakfast. Said on the phone, this might sound affected. But Hameline in the flesh is funny and bright, a little earnest but looser after a drink. We meet at the Wolseley (posh places amuse him) and he arrives, on time, in khaki Miu Miu shirt and Raf Simons trousers, his hair scraped back with blue acetate sunglasses. He is rarely without them – “On planes, too, which makes me look…” – he smirks – “but I like to watch Disney films and I always cry.” He puts them on the table, sits down and orders a large whisky.

Today, he’s celebrating the end of his first year studying art at Central St Martins. His final piece was an installation involving cassettes which he burned immediately after. Tomorrow, he is going to the dentist. As the buzziest model in fashion, you’d think his lifestyle would transcend wisdom teeth. Alas. “I have to wait to fix them until after [the fashion shows] because…” – he mimes a swollen face – “the designers will be upset.”

Vetements show, Paris fashion week, 2015. Photograph: Sipa/Rex/Shutterstock

21-year-old Hameline was born in Paris. A quiet, introverted boy, he had braces and a stutter. Aged 11, he went to a boarding school in North Yorkshire which practised hunting and fishing, which he didn’t enjoy (“I like animals”). He went to a day school in Paris a few years later, before spending time at the prestigious Ecal in Switzerland and a summer camp in the US; he speaks English almost perfectly. His mother worked for the minister of defence, his father ran the Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature in Paris, and clearly enjoyed clothes: “When he was 16 he’d wear tweed and a cape – you know, like Sherlock Holmes. He tried to pick me up from school in a fuchsia corduroy suit. I was like, non, Dad, it’s OK, I walk.” As a teenager, Hameline was “normal”, wearing black jeans, Converse and a Carhartt jacket.

His scouting was run-of-the-mill fashion folklore: 16, and running late, he was at an ATM getting cash for a cab when he was spotted by Eva Gödel, founder of ultra-hip street-casting agency Tomorrow Is Another Day, who chased him down the road on her bike. “I signed to her agency only because I was drawn to her, you know?” It was his fifth scouting by as many agencies but he was – and is – picky. He uses the word freely: “The others were bigger but I knew I didn’t want to be ‘a model’. I was picky.” Even now, he’ll walk only in particular shows. “I only do it for brands I relate to or respect. I’m picky about it,” he says. He recently left to join the Lions NY and Success Models in Europe: “It’s important to turn the page, to let people go,” he says. He remains on good terms with Gödel.

Paul Hameline photographed in Paris for The Fashion Photograph: Hélène Pambrun

Hameline likes to vanish. “If I’m at a party, I call an Uber, say I am going to pee, then I just go. My friends call it ‘an Hameline’.” It feels as if that’s why he moved to London a year ago. Here, he enjoys the anonymity of eating Sunday roasts in a pub or shopping in Turkish supermarkets. One of his favourite things to do is sit in hotel lobbies and watch people, unwatched himself. Parisians are far more “judgmental”.

His big break came from meeting Vetements stylist Lotta Volkova through a mutual friend. “We were both bored of Paris, so we threw a party in my parents’ basement. We stayed up all night playing postpunk industrial music – Throbbing Gristle, Nine Inch Nails”, then Volkova took Hameline to a Vetements presentation. To him, “The clothes, that world, it made sense to me.” A few weeks later he bunked off school in Switzerland, flew home and hid from his parents in a studio with his new friends.

Through Volkova he met designers Demna Gvasalia and Gosha Rubchinskiy, and his best friend Mica Arganaraz (recently on the cover of Vogue). “These are people I rely on. I don’t know where I’d be without them.” This summer he plans to visit Vetements in Zurich and Rubchinskiy in Russia. He chose not to walk the last Balenciaga show because he wanted to watch the “performance” from the frow. In his eyes, he sits safely on the fence between insider and outsider.

Carlotti, the photographer, has known Hameline since he was a teenager. “I saw him dancing and he looked… cool,” he says. “I asked if he wanted a drink, he told me how old he was and just kept dancing.” He smiles. “I thought: that is how you should be. To just be you. To be cool.” Pfeiffer agrees, describing his “detachment from fashion” as part of his appeal.

‘I don’t know why people would want to look at me. There are a thousand people who are prettier.’ Paul Hameline. Photograph: Melodie Jeng/Getty Images

It’s an odd position, especially for someone who ranks modelling as his least compelling skill. A prolific collector of photographs, he has already made one successful zine – Rave New World – and plans another. He talks with ease about Freudian theory and new wave cinema. Modelling pays the bills, of course, but one gets the sense his parents approve of his career because Hameline treats it more like an artistic process. He likes to shock, to play with themes of religion and sexuality. He is happy to pose almost naked in Vice, to wear a dress in Dazed. He walks, friends have said, like My Little Pony, but for a character model this works. His face – hooded eyes, full lips – is in constant flux. For the Guardian’s shoot, he’s sort of Marc Almond. The first day I met him, he looked like Charlotte Rampling.

“The thing about male beauty…” Hameline pauses. “What turns me on to a guy or a girl is how they are, their ideas, their soul. I don’t know why people would want to look at me. There are a thousand people who are prettier.”

It’ll be interesting to see where he is this time next year. Models who capture the zeitgeist as Hameline has sometimes get caught in the moment. Success can be brief so he’s wise to branch out. He plans to spend 2017 “nourishing my curiosity” which means applying to drama school. If, like politicians, the best models are the most reluctant ones, Hameline is already at supermodel level. The problem remains: even if modelling is boring to him, he’s still excellent at it.

This article appears in the autumn/winter 2017 edition of The Fashion, the Guardian and the Observer’s biannual fashion supplement

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[samexsoul]

all the unusual asks my dear

thank you cutie 

Spotify, SoundCloud, or Pandora? spotify i love spotify so much 

is your room messy or clean? i’d say it’s pretty clean 

what color are your eyes? green 

do you like your name? why? yeah i mean i dont hate it so 

what is your relationship status? in a committed relationship 

describe your personality in 3 words or less. quiet, sarcastic, caring

what color hair do you have? like a dark blonde 

what kind of car do you drive? color? i dont have a car bc i live in the city lol 

where do you shop? like for clothes i go to like h&m or target or forever 21 bc im a cheap bitch 

how would you describe your style? gay and tired 

favorite social media account? twitter 

what size bed do you have? twin xl but im moving soon so im gonna get a bigger bed thank god 

any siblings? 2 sisters and a step brother 

if you can live anywhere in the world where would it be? why? spain bc the food is so good and i like spanish and the culture is neat 

favorite snapchat filter? the one where it makes your nose go away and your mouth really big 

favorite makeup brand(s)? i dont wear makeup lol 

how many times a week do you shower? once a day 

favorite tv show? parks and rec 

shoe size? 9.5 

how tall are you? 5′10″

sandals or sneakers? sneakers 

do you go to the gym? i try to lol i dont go as much as i want to 

describe your dream date. literally anything i just love dates but like probably a hike and a picnic bc im cliche 

how much money do you have in your wallet at the moment? $1 lol 

what color socks are you wearing? black 

how many pillows do you sleep with? 2 

do you have a job? what do you do? im starting work on monday at like a garden/landscape store 

how many friends do you have? like 5?? 

whats the worst thing you have ever done? um.... underage drink?? i dont do anything 

whats your favorite candle scent? apple cinnamon 

3 favorite boy names. i dont really have favorite names tbh 

3 favorite girl names. same as previous answer 

favorite actor? nph?? i dont really have one 

favorite actress? kristen stewart 

who is your celebrity crush? OH BOY i have so many but mostly lynn gunn 

favorite movie? probably zootopia or kingsmen and the secret service 

do you read a lot? whats your favorite book? i dont read that much but i just read connor franta’s new book and i loved it so im gonna say that one is my favorite 

money or brains? brains 

do you have a nickname? what is it? meg 

how many times have you been to the hospital? like twice 

top 10 favorite songs. UGH i cant pick favorites but in no order my faves are mind over matter (pvris), ghosts (pvris), white knuckles (tegan and sara), guns for hands (21p), holding onto you (21p), oh np (bmth), you and i (pvris), on directing (tegan and sara), menswear (the 1975), and heaven (pvris)

do you take any medications daily? yes for my thyroid 

what is your skin type? (oily, dry, etc) oily af but also dry af 

what is your biggest fear? having to get surgery and being awake during it and also losing people close to me 

how many kids do you want? idk tbh 

whats your go to hair style? uh just the way i normally style it bc im lazy 

what type of house do you live in? (big, small, etc) pretty average 

who is your role model? lynn gunn and tegan and sara 

what was the last compliment you received? abbey compliments me a lot 

what was the last text you sent? “yes you have” to abbey 

how old were you when you found out santa wasn’t real? like...8 or 9?? 

what is your dream car? i dont really want a car tbh 

opinion on smoking? not for me 

do you go to college? yes im about to be done with my second year 

what is your dream job? something with research or sustainability 

would you rather live in rural areas or the suburbs? suburbs 

do you take shampoo and conditioner bottles from hotels? no but i dont stay in hotels often 

do you have freckles? not really 

do you smile for pictures? usually 

how many pictures do you have on your phone? 228

have you ever peed in the woods? probably tbh 

do you still watch cartoons? if bobs burgers counts then yes 

do you prefer chicken nuggets from Wendy’s or McDonalds? mcdonalds fuck wendys 

Favorite dipping sauce? honey mustard 

what do you wear to bed? shorts and a tshirt 

have you ever won a spelling bee? no 

what are your hobbies? finding new music on spotify 

can you draw? no 

do you play an instrument? i kind of play guitar 

what was the last concert you saw? bastille 

tea or coffee? coffee 

Starbucks or Dunkin Donuts? ive been liking starbucks more lately tbh 

do you want to get married? yes 

what is your crush’s first and last initial? a p 

are you going to change your last name when you get married? probably abbey and i were just talking about this yesterday 

what color looks best on you? blue i think or black 

do you miss anyone right now? abbey and my family 

do you sleep with your door open or closed? closed 

do you believe in ghosts? sure 

what is your biggest pet peeve? when people stare at me 

last person you called? abbey 

favorite ice cream flavor? coffee 

regular oreos or golden oreos? the kind that is chocolate on one side and golden on the other 

chocolate or rainbow sprinkles? rainbow 

what shirt are you wearing? my pvris jersey bc im trash 

what is your phone background? me and abbey and lynn gunn 

are you outgoing or shy? shy 

do you like it when people play with your hair? yes i fuckin love it 

do you like your neighbors? idk them 

do you wash your face? at night? in the morning? both 

have you ever been high? no 

have you ever been drunk? yes 

last thing you ate? cereal 

favorite lyrics right now. “you took my heaven away” 

summer or winter? summer 

day or night? night 

dark, milk, or white chocolate? dark 

favorite month? may probably 

what is your zodiac sign? pisces 

who was the last person you cried in front of? abbey