2O | Fashion student at AUB | Menswear design and digital pattern cutting
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COAST WEEK 9
I started this week working on Drapers studio putting different prints and colours onto photographs of our groups final toiles. I made 3 variations of both my garment and charlie’s kids wear. On tuesday I digitised all of the pattern pieces in our collection ready to make digital lay plans. Before i could start sewing my final garment i had to make changes to the final line up illustration.
I found sewing the dress quite challenging, i found it really difficult to hem the dress and sleeves as they were both curved edges.
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COAST WEEK 8
I began the week making the necessary changes to the dress pattern ready to cut out the final fabric. I also helped Danni to make the jumpsuit pattern by cutting and slashing the sleeves. I found it helpful doing these pattern pieces manually after spending so much time using Lectra. After helping make the pieces i then cut out the toile fabric for the jumpsuit as well as the final fabric for the dress. Later in the week i began focusing on sketchbook and technical manual work. I created a few pages of styling ideas in my sketchbook, i felt this could be really helpful when considering styling for next weeks presentation.
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COAST WEEK 7
At the beginning of the week I edited the illustrated line up and scanned it into illustrator. i then added colours and prints. Although it took my quite a while, I think it looks much more professional and effective than the original hand drawn line up.
After finishing the line up i continued to edit the pattern for the shirt dress. After editing all the pieces and putting them onto 3D, i made it in fabric. The toile wasn’t perfect but the changes that need to be made are only minor e.g changing the hem and emphasising the asymmetric hem.
As well as working on the dress, i helped Danni digitise the drape piece which goes with the jumpsuit in the collection.
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COAST WEEK 6
After the coast presentation we had a de-brief/toile review with Ren and Penny. Ren was very critical of my toile which i knew he would be. It was very rushed and basic considering a week before the presentation we were re-designing. Penny suggested spiral cutting the dress to make it more interesting but still subtle. So, i spent the rest of the week spiral cutting the dress and putting it onto 3D.
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COAST PRESENTATION
We were the first group to be seen on Tuesday, we were all so nervous but I think it went really well. Coast really liked our designs and the drapey style throughout each garment. They also said they really liked our prints however we could do with a soft and feminine print amongst all of our graphic and harsh prints. They mentioned that they usually only use around 3 prints and 4/5 colours in a small collection. They said they liked the shirt dress I’m making and they liked how it was one of the subtle pieces in the collection. They also liked the Jumper, Sheer shirt and Tailored trousers combo that I originally designed. they liked that the shirt would be ombre printed so it could be worn as a dress or worn open as a kimono style shirt. Overall Coast were really positive about all aspects of our collection and we were all really pleased with the comments.
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COAST WEEK 5
On the first day back we selected our final 8 designs and I drew up the final line up. We also went through the print designs and found that Georgia and Megan’s were the strongest.
We also had a meeting with Iain this week. Both him and Penny noticed that our designs looked very high street. He explained that we had filtered them down too much from the original drape collages. They also noticed that all of our designs came in at the waist, although this was unintentional, it showed we definitely had to go back to the drawing board and look at our designs properly. After the meeting we started to redesign and picked a new final collection that had more complex shapes and interesting silhouettes.
Once we picked the final designs we began toiling. I managed to pattern cut and toile a basic shirt dress ready for the coast presentation next week.
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EASTER
Over easter I worked on doing different design variations. I tried to create some digital prints but i felt this was not my strong point. I feel i work quite fast when designing so i produced a few variations of every design in the collection.
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COAST WEEK 4
We mainly worked on designs and prints this week. we decided on a final 8 designs to work from over the easter break. we aimed to create around 5 variations of each design. we finalised our colour palette so we could start creating prints that work together
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COAST WEEK 3
We’ve had a real issue with concepts so far into the project. We have had a lot of ideas but none of them strong enough to create a good collection from. we sat down as a group and decided we would use the concept Coral. This allowed us to create really nice inital colour pallets. We also felt a bit stuck when it came to silhouette, so we gathered a load of different fabrics and started to drape them over Fran and other objects to create interesting shapes and layers. After this Danni created some really nice collages so we all decided to design from those drape collages.
When deciding on this concept we considered there being a charity collaboration opportunity. Where a small percentage of money made from the garments could go to a charity working to save the coral/oceans. I designed a tote bag design to go with this idea, so customers would receive a bag with every sale.
However after discussing this with Iain, he made it clear to us that we would have to be very careful about being hypocritical. It wouldn’t make sense to donate money to a save the ocean charity if we’re using dyes and fabrics that harm the environment. Although the charity element was scrapped, the tutors liked our imagery of corals and thought there were some really strong colours in them.
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COAST WEEK 2
This week as a group, we discussed what we found in bicester. We discussed certain colours and print ideas we could use. We began to think about an initial concept, this being rust. We wanted to use rust to influence the colour pallet using red and orange tones. For silhouette inspiration we considered using shadows and light, but later realised this would be too flat. we also had a drapers studio workshop this week which i found really helpful as i always forget to use certain software after not using it for a while.
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BICESTER On the Thursday we went to Bicester shopping village in Oxford. I felt really inspired by a lot of details and finishings in shops such as Prada, Dolce and Gabbana and Kenzo. I really enjoyed this trip as i had never been before and of course i had to buy some Christopher Kane trainers!
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COAST WEEK 1
This week was the first of this project, we were briefed on what we were required to produce throughout the project and which groups and categories we would be in. Overall i felt very positive about both my group and designing for ‘Relaxed Evening’. We started to look through the coast website and see what sort of garments we’d be making.
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- GARMENT ENGINEERING -
- WEEK 9 -
This week i focused on completing my toiles. i draped the collar/hood of my jacket and was able to put the full jacket onto 3D avatar with the under garments. I also worked on sketchbook work and technical flats.
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- GARMENT ENGINEERING -
- Week 7 -
This week i had another toile review. In the review we decided i should change the design of my jumper as the shapes of the panels looked feminine. I altered the pattern pieces and began to remake the jumper as well as completing the changes to my jacket.
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