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[contaiinedarmageddon2]

Another day in another timeline Sollux had a different Aradia over. Not only was she quite tall, over ten feet plus her horns, but she was, as she likes to say, a proud fat nerd. And like any respectable nerd she was camped infront of the tv laying on her rug covering gut as she played his game grubs. Her even larger ass rising above her, the immense grey boulders taller than troll completely engulfing her underwear, while her pitiful excuse for a skirt was bunched up on her back

"Sollux! Im horny, come fuck my ass!"

"You're always horny, you get caught in doors almost as much as tv does! Anyways what do I look like, a bang maid?"

"No, but only because you won't wear the outfit. 0n0 Besides its not like your doing anything other than jerk off your diffidence excretor!"

"It's your outfit! If you won't why should I? Anyways I'll have you know I'm up to your spheres in a project right now, try a little patience."

Aradia grunts and just psionically pulls Sollux over, monitor tower and all, which is easier than it sounds considering Sollux is only several inches tall. Taking off his pants she psionically caresses his bulge, electric sparks of pleasure zapping along its expanding length, getting the monster length worked up and hard. His hardware was plopped atop her twin moons, in easy reach, while he was pressed into her deep crack, already troll devouring in size to normal trolls to Sollux it was if the ground itself split apart and beneath it was ass.

And for good measure she also freezes his arms until he gets to work.

((Decent sized prompt below the cut, nsfw))

Most nights, this would’ve been a perfect scenario for Sollux. An Aradia chatting him up trying to get into his game grub collection? Could hardly tell her no. Unfortunately, two miscalculations followed. One, attempting to set a specific date with a Time player juggling a limitless amount of different dates all at once instead of just saying the night you were going to be busy. Two, that rather than patience she would have a libido as big as her ass. As his slightly over half a foot frame was yanked airborne, all he could think was that if he missed this deadline she owed him a rewind.

Where she learned to do it was a mystery to him, but it was hard to cross your arms and scowl when someone is practically vibrating your dick. Sollux closed his eyes and took steady breaths, trying not to think about her biting her full lips as a blush crept across her face at the feel of her mental constructs wrapped around his monstrously disproportionate shaft... Dammit he was failing miserably. At least there was no Serket around to make quips about him being 8″ 8′

Sollux opened his eyes only to briefly see the great cleft in the vast moonscape reaching out to welcome him, before darkness once again as he crashed down into their gelatinous embrace. Without his arms to brace with, rather than settle onto or slightly wedge at the top of the crack like his computer had, the weight of his prodigious endowment given momentum by Aradia herself dragged him downward into the cleft. Eventually the way each fat cheek rested against the other created enough resistance to stop his descent, helped by his rapidly hardening bulge touching down against her backside deep below.

For Aradia this was enough to draw a small pleased sigh. Sure she had toys, but she couldn’t even fully reach back there without her psionics! This was real, and she planned to savor the feel of every inch of it pressing back against her elephantine cheeks and twitching with vitality... Or maybe that twitching was Sollux struggling not to be further consumed. Aradia might’ve forgotten he’d probably need leverage to get much done even if his dick had agreed to her demands. She gave a quiet apology and freed his arms, feeling his hands gripping her as the yellowblood pulled himself back up. Maybe some other time she’d like to feel the rush of silencing Sollux’s griping by stuffing him nice and deep between her pride and joy, but for now Aradia wanted them both to relax and both to enjoy each other.

Back on top Mt. Megido peaks and unaware what the future may have in store, Sollux was back into the light and holding onto his computer almost like a life preserver. As if to further add to the analogy he heard Aradia give a smug little laugh and begin slowly tilting from side to side. It took a few seconds for the effects to even reach Sollux on top as he was, but the world became a tilting theme park ride as Aradia’s ass began wobbling and pitching from side to side. Sollux had to keep hold of his electronics to keep them from flying off but was himself anchored firmly in place. Said anchor was being squeezed and kneaded by the shifting walls of Megido meat as she toyed with him.

“Enough stalling Captor! I can still play if I’m on top you know.”

He could almost hear the damn emoticon. Fine, he wasn’t getting out of this any other way, sometimes you just have to fuck a time goddess. Braced (and occasionally even able to type on) against his computer and thoroughly hotdogged to hardness Sollux found his mark and started to push. Despite eagerness and countless toys training it, the greedy rustblood’s pucker still gave some resistance to her newest toy’s first thrusts. At last being filled how she’d craved, Aradia let out a moan of both relief and pure lust.

Each thrust took the yellowblood a little deeper. The soft, squeezing canyon of her asscheeks traded for the incredible tightness inside her. Practicality kept him from slamming his hips with reckless abandon. If he put too much into it he might start sinking into that vast ocean of soft grey, plus he might be giving into to both of their base desires here but he still had to try and not lose completely. Still the size of the cock steadily plowing into her transferred a great deal of force no matter how casual the strokes were. Laying atop the pudgy cushioning of her own belly, Aradia slowly started to slide back and forth with each pounding movement. This rhythm helped force even more of her partner’s impossible shaft deeper into her while she panted and bit her lip, now having to try and force her attention back to her own gaming.

So the two continued into the night, casually competing to see who could force the other to give up on their secondary pursuit. Sollux occasionally wondered if he had seen the moon move past his window more than once. Aradia gave her ass a psionic slap powerful enough to set it jiggling for the next few minutes if she caught him slowing down to think instead of fucking her.

[livingcorner]

These DIY Trellis Ideas Add Beauty and Function to Any Kind of Garden

susandanielsGetty Images

Beloved by gardeners and greenskeepers around the world, the trellis is a mainstay of the gardens everywhere—the bones upon which the garden grows. They can take many forms and serve just as many functions, from simple structures meant to merely keep vining veggies from crawling across the dirt, to far more elaborate, studier designs that give shape and beauty to back patios, add a splash of floral color to otherwise plain walls, or provide shade and privacy to pathways. If you’re just looking for a basic trellis, you can often get away with simply buying a great trellis online or at your local garden store. But sometimes you want something a little more personalized — or cheaper. That’s when it’s worth taking (a small amount of) time to design and build your own trellis. To help you envision the perfect structure for your climbing plants, we’ve rounded up the best trellis projects from around the web, to match a wide variety of styles and purposes, from purely functional to easily elegant.

You're reading: These DIY Trellis Ideas Add Beauty and Function to Any Kind of Garden

Trellises, which often seem undeniably romantic, are a safe bet for inclusion in every great garden in the world. But it’s not necessary to pay a fortune for a beautiful, functional trellis. Whether you’re dreaming of an uncomplicated little support system for growing peas, or a stunning arbor laden with blooms that arches overhead, chances are, you can make it yourself— especially with the help of the following DIY trellis ideas. (And don’t forget to check out our best garden plans, landscaping ideas, and backyard ideas.)

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DIY Pergola

Pergolas, also known as trellises and arbors, can be used not only as a support structure for crawling vines, but also to define outdoor spaces and create cooling shade. Before building yours, be sure to call your utilities offices and note the location of underground lines. You’re going to need to sink the footing to one-quarter the height of the post.

Get the tutorial at A Piece of Rainbow.

SHOP TIE CONNECTORS

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DIY T-Post Trellis

This sweet, rustic little trellis can be made from simply two T-posts, poplar sapling twigs, and twine, though you can use zip ties instead of the latter for added strength. Use bigger branches on the bottom and smaller ones up top, alternating the thick ends on each row.

Get the tutorial at Chicken Scratch NY.

SHOP ZIP TIES

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DIY Honeycomb Trellis

Lovely in itself, this hexagon-shaped honeycomb trellis will add serious zing to your property. Use a miter saw to make the hexagonal cuts, then mount the trellis onto a fence, making sure it screws into all the horizontal supports.

Get the tutorial at Mama Needs a Project.

SHOP MITER SAWS

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DIY Fancy Trellis

This beautifully made trellis is suitable for showing off at the entrance to your home, especially draped with a flowering vine like clematis. Be sure to use pressure-treated lumber and stain and sealer so it stands the test of time.

Get the tutorial at HandyDadTV.

SHOP STAIN AND SEALER

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DIY Clematis Trellis

Just about everybody loves the privacy tall fences bring, but they can also look fairly uninspiring. Jazz up your backyard barrier with a clematis trellis that will give flowering vines the support they need to climb high. For this project, cedar boards cut into short, 1 ½-inch-wide strips make the perfect trellis material.

Get the tutorial at The Handyman’s Daughter.

SHOP NAIL GUNS

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Read more: Honeybee Swarm Nesting: Dealing With A Honeybee Swarm In The Garden

DIY Wire Wall Trellis

Shouldn’t all brick walls have at least a few vines crawling over them? You can help get picturesque greenery going on your brick with this wire trellis, which uses masonry anchors, eye hooks and cable wire to create a foundation for your plants to cover.

Get the tutorial at Salvaged Living.

SHOP DRILL BITS

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DIY Trellis With Planter Box

Two projects in one, this trellis is mounted inside a handy planter. Even better, the box has casters mounted on the bottom, making it easy to move. Along with the casters, be sure to add drainage holes to the bottom of the planter to keep your plants healthy.

Get the tutorial at Deuce Cities Henhouse.

SHOP DRILLS

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DIY Copper Trellis

You don’t need to be able to weld to assemble this delicate copper pipe trellis—just be sure have some Gorilla Glue at the ready. And think how lovely that copper will look draped in vines when it begins to weather to a pale green patina.

Get the tutorial at 33 Shades of Green.

SHOP GORILLA GLUE

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DIY Trellis Ladder

Whether you’d like to use this to use this homey ladder as a true trellis, or as a support system for pails of posies and other seasonal decorations, it will be a lovely addition to your porch or patio. Craft it from black birch saplings or the limbs of other visually unique trees to give it extra appeal.

Get the tutorial at Ashbee Design.

SHOP PRUNING SHEARS

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DIY Crisscross Wall Trellis

This elegant crisscross trellis can be used in the most formal of outdoor spaces to support climbing foliage like pink bower vines. If you have a fountain or artwork you’d like to highlight, think about leaving out the center ��X” and placing the piece within the space, using the trellis as its frame.

Get the tutorial at Centsational Style.

SHOP STAPLE GUNS

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DIY Rustic Trellis

Whimsical and deeply charming, this trellis is made with green saplings, which are bent into a hoop shape and wedged between large rocks for about two weeks, until they’re dry. The ends are then placed in wood inserts buried in the earth at either side of the walkway, the saplings lashed together with jute twine for extra stability.

Get the tutorial at Ellen Ogden.

SHOP JUTE TWINE

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DIY Garden Obelisk

You can use this simple, cheery obelisk for everything from a tomato cage to a trellis for roses, depending on your needs. Easily assembled out of pine, it can be topped with a weather vane, or coated with protective tung oil instead of paint.

Get the tutorial at Flower Patch Farmhouse.

SHOP TUNG OIL

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DIY Cattle Panel Trellis

A perfect space saver for those of us with little room to garden, this clever trellis made from metal cattle panels enables you to grow goodies like cucumbers, pole peas, and beans up instead of out. After trimming and halving the panel, use hog rings or cable ties to join them. This trellis saves space in the winter as well, by folding flat for storage.

Get the tutorial at Frugal Family Home.

SHOP HOG RINGS

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DIY Pea Trellis

Kids will love to lend a hand making this adorable, tiny trellis for pea plants. After building the frame out of four bamboo poles joined by twine, run the twine up and down the frame, keeping it taut. With a little coaxing, the pea tendrils will take to the twine just fine.

Get the tutorial at Garden Therapy.

SHOP GARDEN TWINE

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DIY Freestanding Trellis

Easy, efficient, and, at less than $5 for materials, incredibly cost-effective too—this trellis is built from just four 1 in. x 2 in. x 8 ft. furring strip boards, glue, and brad nails. You can customize the size to suit the needs of your garden as well.

Get the tutorial at Hydrangea Treehouse.

Read more: The Pros and Cons of Square Foot Gardening

SHOP FURRING STRIP BOARDS

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DIY Pea Trellis

Perfect for peas or any vining plant, this five-foot-tall trellis can also be built shorter or higher, depending on your needs. For slightly sturdier, thicker trellis, as seen here, you can use 2 in. x 2 in. boards.

Get the tutorial at Jen Gilday Interiors.

SHOP NAIL GUNS

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DIY Trellis Wall

Pretty as a picture even without bougainvillea creeping over them, these expandable wood trellis panels create visual interest where there were once only a blank wall. If you’re planting something as leafy as bougainvillea, make sure to hang the trellises several inches from the wall, so the vines have space to grow around and through them.

Get the tutorial at Jenna Sue Design.

SHOP HAMMERS

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DIY Trellis Planter

Practical, but smart-looking, these trellises will add weight and structure to your patio or porch. You can make the build faster and easier by using pre-fabricated latticework, but think about adding a frame made with 2 x 2 pressure-treated lumber around the trellis to give it a more finished look.

Get the tutorial at Love Grows Wild.

SHOP CIRCULAR SAWS

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DIY Pallet Cucumber Trellis

Get your cukes off the ground and away from insects and diseases found in the soil with this quick, easy trellis made from a wood pallet. No tools are required—just bailing twine and two posts—and you can even plant another row of crops like lettuce and radishes underneath the pallet.

Get the tutorial at Lovely Greens.

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DIY Chevron Lattice Trellis

Using the eternally-stylish chevron shape for lattice is genius, guaranteeing your garden will have a slightly modern flair—especially if you spray paint the trellis black. Add clay flower pots to the trellis with zip ties and go even bolder, ensuing you’ll be the talk of the neighborhood.

Get the tutorial at Remodelaholic.

SHOP MEASURING TAPE

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DIY Garden Tools Trellis

This playful trellis doubles as garden art, and is a good use of broken or worn-out tools like rakes, hoes, shovels, spades, and the like. Simply chisel down the ends of the tools into a stake shape, next attaching cross slats made from scrap wood using glue or a nail gun. The more weathered the sculpture becomes, the more its charm increases.

Get the tutorial at Sadie Seasongoods.

SHOP CHISELS

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Modern Trellis

Sleek and slim, these trellises offer simple, unfussy lines that contrast nicely with the heavier, more traditional raised planters installed beneath them. You can keep the look clean and bright by using two coats of an exterior semi-gloss paint; for extra ease, use a sprayer.

Get the tutorial at Yellow Brick Home.

SHOP PAINT SPRAYERS

Jill Gleeson Jill Gleeson is a travel journalist and memoirist based in the Appalachian Mountains of western Pennsylvania who has written for websites and publications including Good Housekeeping, Woman’s Day, Country Living, Washingtonian, Gothamist, Canadian Traveller, and EDGE Media Network.

This content is created and maintained by a third party, and imported onto this page to help users provide their email addresses. You may be able to find more information about this and similar content at piano.io

Source: https://livingcorner.com.au Category: Garden

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[kristablogs]

Fifteen survival shelters that can save your life

Protecting yourself from the elements should be a priority when you're trapped in the wilderness. (Tim MacWelch/)

This story was originally featured on Outdoor Life.

Shelter is your top priority in most survival emergencies. Severe weather conditions can kill within a few hours if you don’t have some type of shelter to defend you from the elements. Luckily, there are a wide array of techniques and materials for escaping the elements. Check out my top 15 favorite survival shelters.

1. Round lodge

The round lodge design has withstood the test of time for a reason. (Tim MacWelch/)

The round lodge is a hybrid from many cultures. Part tipi, part wickiup, and influenced by many architectural styles, a round lodge can block wind, rain, cold, and sun. It is structured like a tipi, with the addition of a solid doorway. These typically have a smoke hole through the roof and can accommodate a tiny fire for heat and light. This shelter can be thatched with grass or mats, or it can be buried with a thick coat of leaf litter. Lodge styles like this abounded in the historic and prehistoric American west. This architecture worked equally well in wetter climates and was used in pre-Roman Britain.

2. Ramada

If you're stranded in the desert, a ramada can protect you from the sun. (Tim MacWelch/)

Sunny, hot environments require a shelter that offers shade. The ramada's flat roof doesn't give you leak-proof rain protection, but it does block all of the sun from beating down on you. Many ramada variations exist, but most are based on four posts, some lightweight beams and a suitable covering. Tarps, mats, or even brush will do well enough on the ramada's roof as a sun block. Add some removable walls to cut the evening breeze if temps cool down, and you have a very versatile desert shelter.

3. Quinzhee

If the snow isn't right for an igloo, you can still probably build a quinzhee. (Tim MacWelch/)

The quinzhee is a dome-shaped snow shelter, similar in shape to an igloo, but much easier to construct. Snow must be just right to build an igloo, while most types of snowfall can be packed together for the quinzhee. To build one, start by piling up some moveable gear under a tarp. Backpacks are commonly used for this. Then pile snow over the tarp and gear. Pack the snow down, estimating when it is two feet thick all the way around. Next, insert 12 inch long sticks around the dome. Use 3 or 4 dozen of these guide sticks. Burrow into the side of the quinzhee and retrieve the tarp and gear. Excavate snow inside the mound until you reach the base of every stick. This will ensure uniform thickness of the dome. Make a fist-sized ventilation hole in the roof of the quinzhee.

4. Snow cave

A snow cave relies on science to keep you warm. (freshairjunkie/)

A snow cave may be the only shelter option in areas with deep snow. This is typically the most dangerous shelter to create, as the inhabitants could suffer from low oxygen or even be buried alive in a ceiling collapse. Snow selection is a critical part to the snow caves safe performance. Select a deep, solid snow bank or drift. Dig into the side of it, forming a tunnel into a low spot. This is the “cold well”, which is a place where the colder air can fall and collect. Then dig up and over, creating a shelf or platform to sleep on. This should be the highest part of the shelter. Dig a small hole about 6 inches in diameter somewhere in the roof for ventilation, especially if you plan on blocking the entrance with a doorway of backpack or big snow chunk.

5. Wedge tarp

A wedge tarp can protect you from the wind while also collecting water. (Tim MacWelch/)

This tarp shelter is best-suited for windy conditions with a constant prevailing wind direction. The wedge provides an aerodynamic shape which should resist the most biting wind and driving rain. With a minimum of 5 tie-down points, the wedge is more secure than most tarps, and it even provides two corners that act as rain catches. To build the wedge tarp shelter, stake down two corners of the tarp into the wind (not opposing corners). Then tie up a line to the center of the opposite side of the tarp. Tie the remaining two corners down toward the ground. Use more cord and a less steep angle for open wings and better ventilation. Tie the last corners down sharply for the best weatherproofing. Place a few rocks or log chunks under the tarp by the first tie downs to create deeper basins to catch water. This shelter is a dwelling and a water harvester in one.

6. Tarp wing

Consider a tarp wing if you need to cover a large area. (Tim MacWelch/)

This unorthodox tarp configuration is great for rain protection over a large area if you have a large tarp, or it can provide coverage to a smaller area when using smaller tarps. I use a 20-by-40-foot tarp in this shape over my campfire area when teaching classes. But, I have also camped under one that was 8 by 10 feet. The wing ties up opposing corners of a tarp, two up high and two in lower positions. It can billow like a loose sail in wind, but it works well to keep off both sun and rain.

7. Tarp burrito

You're the filling in a tarp burrito. (Tim MacWelch/)

The tarp burrito is a low-drag shelter featuring zero frills and a 30-second or less setup. Simply lay your tarp in a likely shelter location. Fold one side over, about ⅓ of the way. Then fold again going in the same direction. This makes a roll of tarp with the seam underneath. Tuck one end of the tarp under itself to close it off, and shove your sleeping bag down into the open end. With this configuration, all of the seams are underneath you, pinned down by body weight, except for the door. Let it flop down in stormy weather, or prop it open if the weather is favorable. Just remember that you get what you pay for. With no time spent on ventilation, there will typically be dew or frost inside the burrito from water vapor produced by you during the night, especially if your clothes are damp. This will get your sleeping bag wet in all conditions but the driest.

8. Tarp tipi

As you are beginning to see, tarps are super useful in the wild. (Tim MacWelch/)

A bit of rope, some poles, and a tarp can give you all you need to build one of the most versatile and mobile shelters that Native Americans have ever employed—the tipi. Traditional tipis were once covered with large hides, then later with canvas. For our purposes, any large fabric will work, from parachute material to sails, or a tarp. There are many traditions with tipi building, but for a quick field shelter, just call it like you see it. Use rope to bundle a few straight poles together or hook a few forked poles to lock in the first three or four poles. Then place other poles in a circle around the main supports. Pull the tarp or other covering into place, and tie down well. Try to size the framework so that you tarp covers it completely.

<b>Tip:</b> Make the tarp come together so that you have a door flap, which can be closed in cold or wet weather or opened for ventilation and egress.

9. A-Frame tarp shelter

The A-frame goes up quickly, leaving you time to build a fire. (Tim MacWelch/)

The A-frame is a tarp design that gives great coverage against rain and wind when built close to the ground. When suspended higher, it still provides coverage from rain, but it allows more airflow underneath. A-frames go up fast. Once you pick your shelter site, you should have your tarp hung up in 10 minutes or less, leaving plenty of time in the day to accomplish other survival tasks. To get started, suspend a line of cordage between two trees or similar supports. Lay your tarp over the line and tie down all four corners of your tarp. This shelter is a great addition to a tarp hammock or strung up over a springy bough bed. You can even use a poncho as an A-frame tarp shelter.

10. Desert tarp

Desert cultures have been using this type of shelter for ages. (Tim MacWelch/)

This “double-roofed” shelter dates back centuries among desert cultures, particularly in northern Africa and the Middle East, but it finally found widespread fame through the last century’s military survival training. To get started with this shelter, you’ll need two tarps and several dozen feet of rope. Find or dig your own low spot in the ground. Lay one of your tarps out over the low spot and drive each of your stakes at one corner of the tarp. Tie your tarp tightly to the stakes, and then tie the other tarp into place—so it leaves one foot of air space between the two tarps. You can also fold over a larger tarp to create the two layers. Tie the tops of the four stakes to your four anchors, which can be stakes, rocks, logs or any other strong anchoring object.

11. Tarp hammock

You've seen a hammock before, right? (Tim MacWelch/)

This is a quick way to improvise a hammock to get off the ground in wet or bug-infested environments. Use an 8-by-10-foot tarp and some ¼-inch braided nylon rope. Start out with one of the long sides of the tarp and roll it up halfway across the entire tarp. Then roll up the other long side to meet the first, so that the whole thing looks like a 10-foot-long, two-roll bundle. Now, tie a sheet bend securely to each end of the tarp, leaving 15 feet or so of rope on each end to tie to your trees. Select leg-thick or thicker trees about 10 feet apart and securely tie the end of each rope to a tree, as high as you can reach. Wrap around the tree twice for good grip on the bark, and then use two half hitches, with an extra hitch for added security. Tie to the trees high up to compensate for the settling of the hammock as the knots cinch down. You can tie up another tarp as an A-frame between the two trees that the hammock hangs from to give yourself a roof.

<b>For buggy locations:</b> Tie a small bit of cloth to each of your hammock lines and soak it with bug repellent. This should keep some of the bugs from walking the line down into your hammock. For snake- and insect-proofing, soak the rags in kerosene, but keep any open flames far away from the fuel soaked cloth.

12. Bough bed

The bough bed—for when it's time to decorate your survival shelter. (Tim MacWelch/)

This is not a shelter by itself, but it makes an outstanding addition to any other shelter type. To make a bough bed, you can use leaves, grass, evergreen boughs, or other plant material. Cedar and pine boughs are common enough in many places, but fir boughs make the softest bed. For the bed frame, roll up two logs, side by side and about 3 feet apart. Make sure they are longer than you are tall. Fill the void between the logs by laying down the boughs, several at a time. Dead, dry leaves or dead grasses can be a great addition if you have them. In snowy conditions, you’ll just have to stick with the boughs. Make the mattress so thick that you are at least 6 inches from the frozen ground or snow surface when lying down. Keep adding armloads of boughs or other vegetation if the mattress compresses too much or isn’t warm enough.

13. Wickiup

Depending on the conditions and shelter material, you may be able to safely light a small fire inside a wickiup. (Tim MacWelch/)

The wickiup is a bit like a small tipi made from poles, brush and vegetation. This shelter can be found across the globe, but has been most frequently documented in the American southwest. Thicker brush, grass, and leaf coverings along with a steeper roof can make this shelter suitable for climates with occasional rain. A broader, squattier structure covered with light brush can give you a shady, ventilated shelter for hot, dry climates.

Collect several dozen poles, some with forks at the top. Lock a few of these forks together to build a freestanding tripod. Then lay the other poles around to create the tipi frame. Finish with the vegetation layer. If the wickiup is large enough and the vegetation covering the roof is wet or green material, it may be safe enough to risk lighting a tiny fire inside.

14. Leaf hut

A leaf hut is a lean-to with clothes on. (Tim MacWelch/)

The leaf hut is a two-sided, wedge-shaped lean-to with much better weatherproofing and insulating qualities. To build one, select a long, sturdy pole 9 to 12 feet long. Prop it up in the fork of a tree or set it on a rock, stump, or two forked prop sticks. Then, cover the sides of the pole with tree branches to act as ribs. These are placed at an angle along both sides of the ridge pole. Place the ribs close together so your hut covering won’t fall through. Next, heap vegetation over the framework (this can be anything that traps air, including grass, ferns, moss, pine needles, brush, or pine boughs). Two to three feet of vegetation covering all sides of the shelter is enough to keep you dry inside. Finally, fill the inside of the hut with a thick pile of vegetation for your bedding.

<b>In case of high winds:</b> A layer of brush, sticks, twigs, or branches should be thrown over the whole hut to keep the wind from stripping the vegetation away.

15. Lean-to

Lean-tos are quick to build, but don't offer a ton of protection. (Tim MacWelch/)

The lean-to is one of the simplest and most frequently constructed primitive shelters. It can be set up in less than an hour with a variety of materials. This basic, one-sided design will give you a haven from wind and rain that the wilderness might throw at you.

Securely support a long, stout pole between two trees. Cover one side with poles, brush or branches. Then, heap leaves, grasses, palm fronds, or any other vegetation that is available on top. This shelter has two main flaws: It doesn’t hold in heat well, and if the wind or rain changes direction, you’ll no longer be sheltered. Think of it as a house with only one wall and half of a roof. It offers little in the way of insulation and merely deflects wind and reflects the heat of the nearby fire.

On the upside, it's quick and easy to build.

<b>Don’t forget:</b> Natural shelters like this are difficult to see from a distance, so hang up something bright like a flag to mark the shelter.

How to heat a survival shelter without an indoor fire

Sticks and stones may break your bones, but they can also warm you. (Tim MacWelch/)

Nothing in the backcountry gives off heat like a roaring fire. That’s why our recent ancestors built fireplaces in their log cabins—and more remote forebears burned fires in whatever structure they called home. And since it’s not wise to have a fire in a primitive hut made of sticks and dry vegetation (or a cave, for that matter), it’s good to know of other ways to heat your living and sleeping area. By digging a hot rock heating pit in the dirt floor of a shelter, you can enjoy the heat of a fire—with far less danger to yourself and your shelter. Here’s how.

Start by digging a small pit in the floor of your shelter, a little bigger than the bowling ball sized rock you will be using to transfer heat. Dig the hole to match the rock’s size and shape and find a flat rock to cover the pit. Make sure that you get your two rocks from a dry location (waterlogged rocks tend to explode when heated, so do not use rocks pulled from rivers, streams, and ponds).

Ensure that everything fits together well before you heat up the stone, since a 1,200-degree rock isn’t a fun thing to juggle. You could even recess the hole of the pit surrounding the cover, so the flat rock sits flush with the dirt floor (not a tripping hazard). When it’s time to use your setup, heat up your pit stone in a fire for about an hour (but don’t heat the lid stone), carry the stone to the pit (a shovel works well), and drop it in. Seal the pit with your flat stone lid, and bask in the radiant heat that will last for several hours.

For sustained heat, you could always have another rock of a similar shape and size to your first rock at the ready, so that when the first rock is done cooling off, the second rock can be swapped in its place to keep the heat going. This trick works best in very dry soil and with a red hot rock. Just clear all flammables out of the way as you move the near-molten stone toward the waiting pit!

[scootoaster]

Fifteen survival shelters that can save your life

Protecting yourself from the elements should be a priority when you're trapped in the wilderness. (Tim MacWelch/)

This story was originally featured on Outdoor Life.

Shelter is your top priority in most survival emergencies. Severe weather conditions can kill within a few hours if you don’t have some type of shelter to defend you from the elements. Luckily, there are a wide array of techniques and materials for escaping the elements. Check out my top 15 favorite survival shelters.

1. Round lodge

The round lodge design has withstood the test of time for a reason. (Tim MacWelch/)

The round lodge is a hybrid from many cultures. Part tipi, part wickiup, and influenced by many architectural styles, a round lodge can block wind, rain, cold, and sun. It is structured like a tipi, with the addition of a solid doorway. These typically have a smoke hole through the roof and can accommodate a tiny fire for heat and light. This shelter can be thatched with grass or mats, or it can be buried with a thick coat of leaf litter. Lodge styles like this abounded in the historic and prehistoric American west. This architecture worked equally well in wetter climates and was used in pre-Roman Britain.

2. Ramada

If you're stranded in the desert, a ramada can protect you from the sun. (Tim MacWelch/)

Sunny, hot environments require a shelter that offers shade. The ramada's flat roof doesn't give you leak-proof rain protection, but it does block all of the sun from beating down on you. Many ramada variations exist, but most are based on four posts, some lightweight beams and a suitable covering. Tarps, mats, or even brush will do well enough on the ramada's roof as a sun block. Add some removable walls to cut the evening breeze if temps cool down, and you have a very versatile desert shelter.

3. Quinzhee

If the snow isn't right for an igloo, you can still probably build a quinzhee. (Tim MacWelch/)

The quinzhee is a dome-shaped snow shelter, similar in shape to an igloo, but much easier to construct. Snow must be just right to build an igloo, while most types of snowfall can be packed together for the quinzhee. To build one, start by piling up some moveable gear under a tarp. Backpacks are commonly used for this. Then pile snow over the tarp and gear. Pack the snow down, estimating when it is two feet thick all the way around. Next, insert 12 inch long sticks around the dome. Use 3 or 4 dozen of these guide sticks. Burrow into the side of the quinzhee and retrieve the tarp and gear. Excavate snow inside the mound until you reach the base of every stick. This will ensure uniform thickness of the dome. Make a fist-sized ventilation hole in the roof of the quinzhee.

4. Snow cave

A snow cave relies on science to keep you warm. (freshairjunkie/)

A snow cave may be the only shelter option in areas with deep snow. This is typically the most dangerous shelter to create, as the inhabitants could suffer from low oxygen or even be buried alive in a ceiling collapse. Snow selection is a critical part to the snow caves safe performance. Select a deep, solid snow bank or drift. Dig into the side of it, forming a tunnel into a low spot. This is the “cold well”, which is a place where the colder air can fall and collect. Then dig up and over, creating a shelf or platform to sleep on. This should be the highest part of the shelter. Dig a small hole about 6 inches in diameter somewhere in the roof for ventilation, especially if you plan on blocking the entrance with a doorway of backpack or big snow chunk.

5. Wedge tarp

A wedge tarp can protect you from the wind while also collecting water. (Tim MacWelch/)

This tarp shelter is best-suited for windy conditions with a constant prevailing wind direction. The wedge provides an aerodynamic shape which should resist the most biting wind and driving rain. With a minimum of 5 tie-down points, the wedge is more secure than most tarps, and it even provides two corners that act as rain catches. To build the wedge tarp shelter, stake down two corners of the tarp into the wind (not opposing corners). Then tie up a line to the center of the opposite side of the tarp. Tie the remaining two corners down toward the ground. Use more cord and a less steep angle for open wings and better ventilation. Tie the last corners down sharply for the best weatherproofing. Place a few rocks or log chunks under the tarp by the first tie downs to create deeper basins to catch water. This shelter is a dwelling and a water harvester in one.

6. Tarp wing

Consider a tarp wing if you need to cover a large area. (Tim MacWelch/)

This unorthodox tarp configuration is great for rain protection over a large area if you have a large tarp, or it can provide coverage to a smaller area when using smaller tarps. I use a 20-by-40-foot tarp in this shape over my campfire area when teaching classes. But, I have also camped under one that was 8 by 10 feet. The wing ties up opposing corners of a tarp, two up high and two in lower positions. It can billow like a loose sail in wind, but it works well to keep off both sun and rain.

7. Tarp burrito

You're the filling in a tarp burrito. (Tim MacWelch/)

The tarp burrito is a low-drag shelter featuring zero frills and a 30-second or less setup. Simply lay your tarp in a likely shelter location. Fold one side over, about ⅓ of the way. Then fold again going in the same direction. This makes a roll of tarp with the seam underneath. Tuck one end of the tarp under itself to close it off, and shove your sleeping bag down into the open end. With this configuration, all of the seams are underneath you, pinned down by body weight, except for the door. Let it flop down in stormy weather, or prop it open if the weather is favorable. Just remember that you get what you pay for. With no time spent on ventilation, there will typically be dew or frost inside the burrito from water vapor produced by you during the night, especially if your clothes are damp. This will get your sleeping bag wet in all conditions but the driest.

8. Tarp tipi

As you are beginning to see, tarps are super useful in the wild. (Tim MacWelch/)

A bit of rope, some poles, and a tarp can give you all you need to build one of the most versatile and mobile shelters that Native Americans have ever employed—the tipi. Traditional tipis were once covered with large hides, then later with canvas. For our purposes, any large fabric will work, from parachute material to sails, or a tarp. There are many traditions with tipi building, but for a quick field shelter, just call it like you see it. Use rope to bundle a few straight poles together or hook a few forked poles to lock in the first three or four poles. Then place other poles in a circle around the main supports. Pull the tarp or other covering into place, and tie down well. Try to size the framework so that you tarp covers it completely.

<b>Tip:</b> Make the tarp come together so that you have a door flap, which can be closed in cold or wet weather or opened for ventilation and egress.

9. A-Frame tarp shelter

The A-frame goes up quickly, leaving you time to build a fire. (Tim MacWelch/)

The A-frame is a tarp design that gives great coverage against rain and wind when built close to the ground. When suspended higher, it still provides coverage from rain, but it allows more airflow underneath. A-frames go up fast. Once you pick your shelter site, you should have your tarp hung up in 10 minutes or less, leaving plenty of time in the day to accomplish other survival tasks. To get started, suspend a line of cordage between two trees or similar supports. Lay your tarp over the line and tie down all four corners of your tarp. This shelter is a great addition to a tarp hammock or strung up over a springy bough bed. You can even use a poncho as an A-frame tarp shelter.

10. Desert tarp

Desert cultures have been using this type of shelter for ages. (Tim MacWelch/)

This “double-roofed” shelter dates back centuries among desert cultures, particularly in northern Africa and the Middle East, but it finally found widespread fame through the last century’s military survival training. To get started with this shelter, you’ll need two tarps and several dozen feet of rope. Find or dig your own low spot in the ground. Lay one of your tarps out over the low spot and drive each of your stakes at one corner of the tarp. Tie your tarp tightly to the stakes, and then tie the other tarp into place—so it leaves one foot of air space between the two tarps. You can also fold over a larger tarp to create the two layers. Tie the tops of the four stakes to your four anchors, which can be stakes, rocks, logs or any other strong anchoring object.

11. Tarp hammock

You've seen a hammock before, right? (Tim MacWelch/)

This is a quick way to improvise a hammock to get off the ground in wet or bug-infested environments. Use an 8-by-10-foot tarp and some ¼-inch braided nylon rope. Start out with one of the long sides of the tarp and roll it up halfway across the entire tarp. Then roll up the other long side to meet the first, so that the whole thing looks like a 10-foot-long, two-roll bundle. Now, tie a sheet bend securely to each end of the tarp, leaving 15 feet or so of rope on each end to tie to your trees. Select leg-thick or thicker trees about 10 feet apart and securely tie the end of each rope to a tree, as high as you can reach. Wrap around the tree twice for good grip on the bark, and then use two half hitches, with an extra hitch for added security. Tie to the trees high up to compensate for the settling of the hammock as the knots cinch down. You can tie up another tarp as an A-frame between the two trees that the hammock hangs from to give yourself a roof.

<b>For buggy locations:</b> Tie a small bit of cloth to each of your hammock lines and soak it with bug repellent. This should keep some of the bugs from walking the line down into your hammock. For snake- and insect-proofing, soak the rags in kerosene, but keep any open flames far away from the fuel soaked cloth.

12. Bough bed

The bough bed—for when it's time to decorate your survival shelter. (Tim MacWelch/)

This is not a shelter by itself, but it makes an outstanding addition to any other shelter type. To make a bough bed, you can use leaves, grass, evergreen boughs, or other plant material. Cedar and pine boughs are common enough in many places, but fir boughs make the softest bed. For the bed frame, roll up two logs, side by side and about 3 feet apart. Make sure they are longer than you are tall. Fill the void between the logs by laying down the boughs, several at a time. Dead, dry leaves or dead grasses can be a great addition if you have them. In snowy conditions, you’ll just have to stick with the boughs. Make the mattress so thick that you are at least 6 inches from the frozen ground or snow surface when lying down. Keep adding armloads of boughs or other vegetation if the mattress compresses too much or isn’t warm enough.

13. Wickiup

Depending on the conditions and shelter material, you may be able to safely light a small fire inside a wickiup. (Tim MacWelch/)

The wickiup is a bit like a small tipi made from poles, brush and vegetation. This shelter can be found across the globe, but has been most frequently documented in the American southwest. Thicker brush, grass, and leaf coverings along with a steeper roof can make this shelter suitable for climates with occasional rain. A broader, squattier structure covered with light brush can give you a shady, ventilated shelter for hot, dry climates.

Collect several dozen poles, some with forks at the top. Lock a few of these forks together to build a freestanding tripod. Then lay the other poles around to create the tipi frame. Finish with the vegetation layer. If the wickiup is large enough and the vegetation covering the roof is wet or green material, it may be safe enough to risk lighting a tiny fire inside.

14. Leaf hut

A leaf hut is a lean-to with clothes on. (Tim MacWelch/)

The leaf hut is a two-sided, wedge-shaped lean-to with much better weatherproofing and insulating qualities. To build one, select a long, sturdy pole 9 to 12 feet long. Prop it up in the fork of a tree or set it on a rock, stump, or two forked prop sticks. Then, cover the sides of the pole with tree branches to act as ribs. These are placed at an angle along both sides of the ridge pole. Place the ribs close together so your hut covering won’t fall through. Next, heap vegetation over the framework (this can be anything that traps air, including grass, ferns, moss, pine needles, brush, or pine boughs). Two to three feet of vegetation covering all sides of the shelter is enough to keep you dry inside. Finally, fill the inside of the hut with a thick pile of vegetation for your bedding.

<b>In case of high winds:</b> A layer of brush, sticks, twigs, or branches should be thrown over the whole hut to keep the wind from stripping the vegetation away.

15. Lean-to

Lean-tos are quick to build, but don't offer a ton of protection. (Tim MacWelch/)

The lean-to is one of the simplest and most frequently constructed primitive shelters. It can be set up in less than an hour with a variety of materials. This basic, one-sided design will give you a haven from wind and rain that the wilderness might throw at you.

Securely support a long, stout pole between two trees. Cover one side with poles, brush or branches. Then, heap leaves, grasses, palm fronds, or any other vegetation that is available on top. This shelter has two main flaws: It doesn’t hold in heat well, and if the wind or rain changes direction, you’ll no longer be sheltered. Think of it as a house with only one wall and half of a roof. It offers little in the way of insulation and merely deflects wind and reflects the heat of the nearby fire.

On the upside, it's quick and easy to build.

<b>Don’t forget:</b> Natural shelters like this are difficult to see from a distance, so hang up something bright like a flag to mark the shelter.

How to heat a survival shelter without an indoor fire

Sticks and stones may break your bones, but they can also warm you. (Tim MacWelch/)

Nothing in the backcountry gives off heat like a roaring fire. That’s why our recent ancestors built fireplaces in their log cabins—and more remote forebears burned fires in whatever structure they called home. And since it’s not wise to have a fire in a primitive hut made of sticks and dry vegetation (or a cave, for that matter), it’s good to know of other ways to heat your living and sleeping area. By digging a hot rock heating pit in the dirt floor of a shelter, you can enjoy the heat of a fire—with far less danger to yourself and your shelter. Here’s how.

Start by digging a small pit in the floor of your shelter, a little bigger than the bowling ball sized rock you will be using to transfer heat. Dig the hole to match the rock’s size and shape and find a flat rock to cover the pit. Make sure that you get your two rocks from a dry location (waterlogged rocks tend to explode when heated, so do not use rocks pulled from rivers, streams, and ponds).

Ensure that everything fits together well before you heat up the stone, since a 1,200-degree rock isn’t a fun thing to juggle. You could even recess the hole of the pit surrounding the cover, so the flat rock sits flush with the dirt floor (not a tripping hazard). When it’s time to use your setup, heat up your pit stone in a fire for about an hour (but don’t heat the lid stone), carry the stone to the pit (a shovel works well), and drop it in. Seal the pit with your flat stone lid, and bask in the radiant heat that will last for several hours.

For sustained heat, you could always have another rock of a similar shape and size to your first rock at the ready, so that when the first rock is done cooling off, the second rock can be swapped in its place to keep the heat going. This trick works best in very dry soil and with a red hot rock. Just clear all flammables out of the way as you move the near-molten stone toward the waiting pit!

[thecoroutfitters]

Written by R. Ann Parris on The Prepper Journal.

Editors Note: Another contribution from R. Ann Parris to The Prepper Journal. As always, if you have information for Preppers that you would like to share and possibly receive a $25 cash award, as well as being entered into the Prepper Writing Contest AND have a chance to win one of three Amazon Gift Cards  with the top prize being a $300 card to purchase your own prepping supplies, then enter today!

Caches periodically come up in preparedness. When they do, there’s routinely talk of burying them. Buried caches can work, but there are some considerations.

One of the things warned about regularly is making sure you can find them again as things ebb and flow in the area. GPS makes a handy backup for now, but in some disasters that GPS unit may not be functioning. I won’t belabor that one. Instead, I’m going to work my way through some considerations for after they’ve been located: Getting into them and getting them out.

Why A Cache?

There are all kinds of caches, for all kinds of reasons. Someone planning a long bugout might stash water purification, energy or ration bars, and drink powders. Someone who uses mass transit or who expects major traffic delays in a crisis might stash some good boots and decent pants.

Others may be creating a network of chipmunk holes because their primary storage areas are limited, or because they fear theft, now or later. Still others may be motivated to create at least a little resiliency to tornadoes, house fires, and flooding – common risks to our primary storage.

The ability to pull up caches with even just the equivalent of a 72-hour kit can buy some less-panicky time to make a better decision than running around with absolutely nothing.

Buried Treasure

Blame my parents for hooking me young, but I love the moment pirates and archaeologists pop something out of the earth.

Thing is, in real life, the earth tends to hold onto her prizes pretty tightly. TV and movies are the only place where something that’s been underground 1-5 years (or longer) plops out without serious effort. See, dirt clings to stuff. Over time, it rains. Sodden soil oozes and fills in the gaps around what we bury. Then it dries and hardens there. Successive seasons repeat this, until the object of our desire is fully cemented in place. (Sandy-soil peeps have a whole other set of issues.)

I don’t have a whole crew of workers like Indy to get my Lost Ark out, so I have learned to be a little smarter about how I plant them in the first place.

Surface Changes & Handy Tools

One of the first things to stay aware of, is how much surface growth we have, and what type. Hand in hand with that, is the kinds of tools we anticipate having if we need our caches.

If we’re hiding 3 of 5 rifles we bought together with one phone call in case a foreign entity ever invades, maybe we have no problem heading out with a machete, loppers, and a trenching shovel or post hole digger, and we’re going to be wearing good boots, good gloves, and decent pants.

If we’re planning our “coming home from a wedding/funeral, truck went boom, had to bail with whatever is in the front seat” disaster-run stash, or if this is a cache built for a wildfire where we all raced for the river/pool after our tires melted, we might have …a pocket knife? …a good camping/hunting do-all blade? …an e-tool? …a hatchet?

So when we site our caches, we want to look around. Not just at “now” level care, but at what springs up inside 1-2 and 3-5 years in the abandoned areas around us.

Siting Snags

Brambles may help keep critters and peeps away from our goodies, but we’re going to have to get through them, too. So it goes with kudzu from nearby areas (that’s about snakes, tangling and tripping, and having to whack it) and poison ivy or ants.

The same goes for anchoring or burying stuff at the edge of waterways. That’s where erosion, sediment deposit, bank shifts, and undergrowth are most likely to exert changes.

We also want to look up as we dig and when we cruise through eyeballing things.

Are there nearby trees with damaged limbs hanging? Diseased branches or trunks? Tree roots in loose banks and shoulders? Those may drop big branches or a whole tree may come down, right on top of our cache.

Don’t just consider healthy, well-fed “now” conditions and abilities. Think about mud and the rolling marbles of a boom acorn year, already injured, and demoralized by loss of home, loved ones, and/or crops due to invaders, fires, or floods.  Consider icy ground, dehydrated, a cold bordering on bronchitis, and footsore after 50-80 dodgy miles on very little.

What tools and abilities will I have in the worst case?

Because, if we’re hitting caches, chances are good we’re in that worst case scenario. And I still have to get into the earth to get my cache of cold meds, Pedialyte, hatchet, and gloves.

Shallow vs. Deep Burial

The shallow-deep aspect is twofold. It’s looking at not only how far underground we stick something, but also the size and shape of our container.

If we go too shallow, our containers can bulge upwards as the earth moves or peek through from erosion. They or contents can be melted in big fires. Floods can unearth them if they and soil isn’t heavy enough.

If we go too deep, however, getting to them with a pointy stick, a rifle stock, or a Ka-Bar is going to be ‘funtastic’.

There’s a sweet spot by location, of 6-12” to the surface of your cache. You’re still susceptible to temperature fluctuations, but chiseling through clay soils in summertime isn’t as grueling as going deeper and they’re less likely to reveal themselves or wander.

If you’re healthy, you can plan on covering the buried treasure with something on the surface (tire, some lumber, small log) and use as little as 4” of topsoil.

That still gives you a buffer to scatter some old bolts, lead bullets, or similar over and in the area off to the side of a cache and cover them with an inch or two of soil. Deposits that build up will still leave a reasonable amount of digging, while it takes a serious flood and time to move four inches of earth once it’s packed down.

That leaves the container. There’s several aspects to wide-skinny containers to think about.

Container Size & Dimensions

First up, consider being off by a few inches. Like, this is for-sure the exactomundo square foot. Our container (or some edge of it) is 100% for-sure inside this here square foot marked by the old steel wheel or big rock. Start digging, Joe.

Only, something scooted. So we need to add 2-6” to our search area.

Most of our caches will be measurable in inches on at least one side. When we’re moving even just 4-6” of earth, especially by hand, do we want to be looking for something that’s 6” across, or something 10- 18”?

Now, consider that it’s not 4-6”, but 12” of topsoil. And not a square foot, but a square yard. Even if we have pre-staged some thin rebar right there by our cache so we can pole for our lid, which do we want to be hunting? The 6” cap to a piece of PVC, or 14” toolbox lid?

That’s just uncovering the top. We still have to get it out.

Earth Clings Tightly

If we need to actually unearth our whole cache to carry our goodies, holy cows. Please, please, please take the time to bury a bucket this autumn/early winter and then dig it up sometime after soil dries this summer. Earth clings. It clings harder the longer something is there.

It’s easiest to define the edges and then dig and spear-wiggle right around the edges of a container if you do need to pull it. That’s another place where shallow or wide has advantage over deep and skinny.

Don’t count on the finger grooves on the underside or the handle holding up to this abuse (or the elements). If it’s really, really smooth with nowhere to grip like a lockbox or PVC tube, for sure you’re going to have to free a big portion of it, depth-wise, to get it out.

Nesting Containers

We can avoid some of the pain of unearthing caches by not actually pulling up the outer containers.

Buckets are made for this. Stack two buckets, inner/upper one with a lid and our goodies. Clear the edges, lift, and go. Really. Storage totes, too, routinely come in stackable sizes. A single bucket or tote can be holding a backpack, tool boxes, etc.

(Psst…kitty litter comes in GOOD buckets, and usually animal rescues getting a bag of dog/cat food will happily let you have empties.)

Remember, ideally the outer shell is pretty tough. That shell is making it easier to unearth those. However, the inner container can be a softer target.

We can slide 4-6” PVC into 6-8” PVC – just the pipe, we don’t have to buy a second round of caps. Toss a chunk of wood or an old boot over the top and-or bottom of it, and-or wedge in an old towel to help keep soil from filling the space between them.

Another option is using a trash can as an exterior for a cache.

The round or squared 13-18gal types work well for various buckets. There are some 6-8gal sizes at Walmart that fit Plano ammo boxes, tackle boxes, and toolboxes really well. (Psst … they also fit inside a backpack while heading out somewhere.)

Slide your container(s) into your trash can, slide a pair of contractor trash bags over it, and slide your trash can into your hole. Top with a seat from an old chair, a freebie-site desk drawer, or planks from the curbside-pickup shelving unit to make it even easier. Bury, roll.

Tie-Offs

Another way to avoid having to un-bury a whole container, especially deep PVC tubes or trash cans, is to tie off each item inside with heavy-duty fishing wire or cord (paracord).

We unwind that all the way to the top, leaving extra trailing out. Tie off and wedge in the next, and eventually wrap the cords into a bundle that will sit on top. Wedging something that won’t settle much like a Ziploc of gloves or socks near the top, the cords above it, will help ensure the cords don’t wiggle down into the depths of our PVC. We can also duct tape the bundle to the inside at the very top.

Remember, if the PVC is 3-4’ long at a table, no big deal. When there’s another 6-12-18” of dirt or debris we’re reaching past and we can’t tilt it, no Bueno. Most of us do not have 4’ arms, and fingertips are not always sufficient for lifting 250 rounds of … lead fishing weights.

Treasure Chests

Caches are an excellent backup, whether we plan to relocate for disasters or just want to nature-proof and people-proof some of our storage.

How we pack our supplies and where we opt to put them so we can get them again are whole articles on their own. Buried caches have their own sets of pro’s and con’s versus other types, but can be pretty effective. A little awareness and others’ “oh, my” moments can help eliminate some of the drawbacks and keep you ready for anything.

  The post Buried Treasure – Caching Caches appeared first on The Prepper Journal.

from The Prepper Journal Don't forget to visit the store and pick up some gear at The COR Outfitters. How prepared are you for emergencies? #SurvivalFirestarter #SurvivalBugOutBackpack #PrepperSurvivalPack #SHTFGear #SHTFBag

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