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lesindispensablesparis · 4 years ago

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Yarmouth Oilskins

Texte : Marcos Eliades Photos : Thomas M.

Je me souviens la première fois que mes yeux se sont posés sur une étiquette « Yarmouth Oilskins ». C’était dans une friperie. La deuxième fois, dans l’excellent livre de Douglas Gunn – Vintage Menswear – dans lequel sont exposées des pièces rares de la collection personnelle du magasin, notamment une parka Yarmouth jaune de marin. La troisième fois, un ami designer menswear m’en parle lors d’une discussion sur l’histoire du CC41. Ma curiosité s’était éveillée, les pièces me plaisait beaucoup esthétiquement, je voulais en savoir plus. Après quelques recherches sur Instagram, je découvre qu’elle existe toujours et qu’elle est bien développée au Japon : elle y est distribuée sous le nom de Yarmo et se concentre essentiellement sur des vêtements dits workwear. Yarmouth Oilskins avait dès entrepris ce virage depuis bien des années.

Décryptage.

I remember the first time my eyes landed on a Yarmouth Oilskins label. It was in a thrift store. The second time was in Douglas Gunn's excellent book - Vintage Menswear - in which rare pieces from the store's personal collection were displayed, including a yellow Yarmouth fisherman's parka. The third time, a menswear designer friend told me about it during a conversation we had about CC41. My curiosity had been aroused, the brand appealed to me aesthetically. After some research on Instagram, I discovered the brand still exists and is well developed in Japan ; it is distributed under the name of Yarmo and mainly focuses workwear. Today a major aspect in menswear Yarmouth had been keen on displaying for years now.

Let’s have a closer look.

HISTOIRE

Le 1er février 1898, Johnson and Sons devient une société anonyme. Trois jours plus tard, quatre membres de la société s’associent à des hommes d'affaires locaux pour former la société Yarmouth Stores Ltd.

La société ouvre ses magasins dans les ports du Royaume-Uni et emploi, avant la Seconde Guerre mondiale plus de 1 200 salariés, dont la majorité sont des machinistes qui fabriquent des salopettes, uniformes, blouses et autres vêtements de travail.

À l'apogée de l'industrie de la pêche au hareng, les magasins Yarmouth restaient ouverts jusqu'à 23h, heure à laquelle les jeunes filles écossaises arrivaient pour s'équiper en vue de leur tâche ardue de tri, d'éviscération et d'emballage du poisson. Les jupes, tabliers et bottes en tissu huilé se révélaient indispensables. Entre les années 1930 et 1950, les magasins Yarmouth ont connu une période difficile, l'industrie de la pêche connaissant un déclin spectaculaire tout au long des guerres mondiales. Les Deux Guerres entraînent en effet la fermeture successive de bon nombre de magasins de la marque, qui n'ont jamais rouverts.

Dans les années 1960, du gaz naturel est découvert au large des côtes de Norfolk, une nouvelle industrie se développe ainsi rapidement. Yarmouth Stores réagit rapidement en fournissant aux navires et aux équipages de Great Yarmouth des vêtements fonctionnels, ce qu'elle fait encore aujourd'hui.

À l'aube du XXIème siècle, l’entreprise familiale a su répondre à un marché en pleine évolution tout en restant fidèle à son héritage. Les vingt machinistes que compte l’usine couvrent désormais tous les aspects de production des vêtements utilitaires, ce qui permet à la marque d’être « sold throughout the world ».

Nous avons le plaisir de vous présenter deux pièces du vestiaire Yarmouth Oilskins : une veste de travail et un pantalon écru.

HISTORY

On February 1st 1898, Johnson and Sons, as it was called, became a limited company. Three days later, four members of the company joined with other local businessmen to form Yarmouth Stores Ltd.

The company opened stores in ports throughout the United Kingdom and before World War II broke, employed over 1,200 people; the majority of whom were machinists making overalls, uniforms, blouses and other work clothes.

At the height of the herring fishing industry, Yarmouth stores were open until 11:00 p.m., when young Scottish girls arrived to equip themselves for the arduous task of sorting, gutting and packing fish. Oilcloth skirts, aprons and boots were a must. Between the 1930s and 1950s, Yarmouth stores went through a difficult period. The fishing industry declined dramatically throughout the World Wars. The Wars resulted in the closure of many of the brand's stores, which never reopened.

In the 1960s, natural gas was discovered off the coast of Norfolk and a new industry developed rapidly. Yarmouth Stores responded quickly by providing Great Yarmouth's ships and crews with functional clothing, which it still does today.

At the dawn of the 21st century, the family-owned business responded to a changing marketplace while remaining true to its heritage. The twenty machinists at the plant cover all aspects of functional apparel production, allowing the brand to be "sold throughout the world".

We are pleased to present two pieces of the Yarmouth Oilskins wardrobe: a work jacket and a pair of ecru work trousers.

REVIEW

La bus driver jacket devient populaire dans les années 1930. Il s'agit d'une veste assez courte conçue pour être portée avec un pantalon assorti. Yarmouth revisite cet héritage en la proposant avec un col de chemise, une coupe plus courte à la taille, une silhouette carrée et une fermeture à boutons corozo fish-eye de chez Courtney & Co Button Makers, un très bon fournisseur de boutons made in the UK.

La veste possède de généreuses poches poitrine à rabats. Aux épaules, elle contient des plis profonds pour faciliter les mouvements. Fabriquée en 100 % sergé de coton* non-doublé, elle sort tout droit de l’usine Yarmouth située à Great Yarmouth en Grande-Bretagne.

*La marque est transparente : si le tissu n’est pas tissé en Angleterre, les étapes de finissage le sont.

La jacket anglaise est plus cintrée que son homologue française que nous avons l’habitude d’apercevoir sur le dos des passants dans la rue, mais elle reste parfaite pour un layering automnal. La toile est résistante mais n’est pas rêche pour autant, Yarmouth lavant au préalable toutes ses vestes afin qu’elles soient plus agréables au porter.

Quant au pantalon écru, il fait partie des nombreux « costumes de travail » fabriqués par les magasins Yarmouth. Chaque m��tier avait un costume spécifique adapté à ses besoins. Le costume de chef, le costume de steward et le costume de peintre figurent tous dans le catalogue de 1905 des Yarmouth Stores. Ce pantalon a une coupe décontractée à double pinces profondes, sans plis. Il est doté d'une braguette en boutons corozo, de larges passants de ceinture et de deux poches avant et arrière profondes. Le tout est évidemment fabriqué en Grande-Bretagne.

REVIEW

The driver jacket bus became popular in the 1930s. It is a short jacket, designed to be worn with matching trousers. Yarmouth revisits this heritage by offering it with a shirt collar, a shorter cut at the waist, square silhouette and a Corozo fish-eye button closure from Courtney & Co, a very good English button-maker

The jacket has generous chest flap pockets. At the shoulders, two deep pleats for easy movement complete the look. Made from 100% unlined cotton twill*, the jacket is made in Great Yarmouth, Great Britain. *The brand is transparent on the matter, the fabric is not woven in England but the finishing stages are

The English jacket is more fitted than its French counterpart – as seen everywhere in the streets in Paris and around the world – but remains perfect for Fall layering. The fabric is very durable but not rough, as Yarmouth washes all their jackets making them comfortable to wear.

As for the ecru trousers, they are one of the many "work suits" made by Yarmouth stores. Each trade had a specific suit adapted to its needs. The chef's suit, steward's suit and painter's suit are all featured in the 1905 Yarmouth Stores catalog. These trousers have a straight casual cut with deep double pleats at the top. They feature a corozo button fly, wide belt loops, and two deep front and back pockets. All of which is of course made in Great Britain.

Il faut le dire une bonne fois pour toute : le pantalon blanc/écru se marie avec tout. Point. Certains seront réticents à le porter par temps de pluie, chose tout à fait compréhensible, mais fort heureusement il existe aujourd’hui la machine à laver et les détachants extrêmes.

Un aspect très agréable de ce pantalon est par ailleurs le fait qu’il soit taille haute. Très confortable à porter, sa coupe large n’est pas dissuasive pour autant. Le coton du pantalon vaut également le détour : certaines aspérités sont visibles à la surface, ce qui explique la rugosité de la toile qui reste pourtant très douce !

J’associe le tout ici avec un pull col roulé en laine Heimat et des Desert boots Clark’s ainsi que des mi-bas orange en laine.

Cette tenue est certainement une des plus workwear jusqu’à présent mais elle a le mérite de mettre en avant de belles matières et des pièces confortables. Le type de tenue que nous portons pour une balade en moto par jour de beau temps.

Yarmouth Oilskins est une marque qui gagne à être connue en France. Certaines pièces sont simples mais ingénieuses à la fois. Dans une industrie qui fait la course à la technicité, Yarmouth Oilskins choisit de mettre en avant des pièces et des matières du passé qu’il faut redécouvrir aujourd’hui.

Let's say it once and for all: white trousers go with everything. Period. Some people are reluctant to wear them in the rain, which is quite understandable. Fortunately, nowadays we have washing machine and extreme stain removers!

These trousers are high-waisted, which is very pleasant and comfortable to wear. The cotton is also worth the detour: beautiful and sturdy !

This is the look we’d combine these trousers and jacket. A Heimat wool turtleneck sweater and a pair Clark's Desert boots with orange over-the calf wool socks.

This outfit is certainly one of the most workwear we have done so far, but it has the merit of highlighting beautiful materials and comfortable pieces.

Yarmouth Oilskins is a brand that deserves to be more widely known in France, some pieces are simple but ingenious at the same time. In an industry consistently reaching for technicality, Yarmouth Oilskins chooses to highlight certain materials from the past that are worth rediscovering today.

#made in england #Yarmouth Oilskins #Yarmo #Wax #Workwear

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shopstarbuzz · 5 years ago

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Starbuzz | Irish Peach Overview

Starbuzz is one of the largest and among the more reputed hookah brands in the world. The company has an interesting catalogue of shisha flavors. Starbuzz Irish Peach is one of the better known flavors of the brand, primarily owing to the distinct smoking experience. Some shisha connoisseurs prefer bolder flavors and they often find Starbuzz to be on the milder end of the spectrum, especially with their sweet and candy variants. The Irish Peach does well to cater to both veterans and rookies in the realm of shisha.

Irish Peach from Starbuzz

As the name implies, the most dominant flavor is that of peaches. Starbuzz has labeled this product as a bold flavor. Given the proclivity of the brand to manufacture sweeter flavors, the Irish Peach is indeed a bolder version. This flavor is available in three sizes: 100g, 250g and 1kg. Most people are likely to pick up the 100g tin can, either to simply try one before committing or owing to the reasonable price tag. There are varying online prices of the 100g can of Irish Peach.

Flavor Profile

The primary profile is of course peach. How much of the peachy flavor is from the real fruit is as good a guess of yours as is mine. One thing is for certain though. There isn’t much of chemical or synthetic ingredient in the stuff. You don’t get any chemically induced taste or flavor. There is no pungent or overpowering smell or texture.

There is no major secondary flavor profile, but one does get a bit citrusy and minty taste. Starbuzz does have other flavors that are more prominently citrusy and minty. The minty or citrusy sensations in the Irish Peach are quite subtle. You may not even notice these undercurrents as you get into the tenth or the fifteenth puff.

Smoke Quality and Cloud Density

Starbuzz doesn’t disappoint with the smoke quality. The smoke is smooth. You won’t feel any choke. There is no hard hit on the palate or the throat. One of the pleasant aspects of this Irish Peach flavor, despite it being a fruity variant, is that there is no overbearing fruitiness or excessive sweetness. Some candy flavored shishas tend to be overwhelmingly sweet. They aren’t ideal for regular smoking. This one does pull a surprise in that regard. The cloud is sufficiently thick. Anyone who presumes that Starbuzz doesn’t deliver the dense clouds should review their assumption after trying the Irish Peach.

Potency during Inhale & Exhale

There is almost no difference between an inhale and an exhale with the Irish Peach. The flavor remains consistent throughout. It is peachy, creamy, a little citrusy and a tad minty right from the moment you inhale and throughout the whole exhaling process.

Aftereffects of Irish Peach

There is no lingering aftertaste, which is pleasant. You won’t experience any head buzz or unpleasant sensations during or after smoking the Irish Peach. You may be slightly lightheaded if you are famished or considerably dehydrated before you begin smoking.

Pro Tip for Starbuzz Irish Peach

Don’t overheat the Irish Peach. It takes heat well, so there is absolutely no need to use more than three or four small cubes of coal.

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