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duchesschameleon · 4 years ago

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what if - chapter 2

summary: a long lost letter leads to an adventure in Italy for three people who find love and healing along the way. a letters to juliet au

pairing: Aaron Hotchner x GN!Reader words: 2336 a/n: alright chapter 2! and just as a heads up/housekeeping item - I know Carolyn isn’t an Italian name but in order to keep the plot close to the movie’s I wanted to use one of Dave’s wives from the show, she made the most sense as his first love. thanks to @qvid-pro-qvo and @writefasttalkevenfaster for the beta

You sit in the back seat of Dave and Aaron’s rental car, notebook open as you document the journey and how you got to this point. You’d left your job as a fact checker when, well when everything happened, but you’d always dreamed of being a writer. There are some pieces saved on your hard drive, but you’d never had the courage to show them to your old boss. Your partner always pushed you to, was always encouraging you to follow your dream but you never took the leap for some reason. And then they were gone, ripped from your life. So here you are, in Italy, writing.

You sigh and look out the window, watch the hills and trees pass you by. Everything looks a little blurry as tears fill your eyes. You take a deep breath and will them away. It’s been four months. And yes, you know that grief is not linear and it comes and goes in waves but you also know that you have to be here in the moment. Here in Italy, with Dave and Aaron on this crazy adventure to find Carolyn Bartolini.

You turn back towards the front of the car and catch Aaron’s eye in the rearview mirror. He looks back to the road quickly and you turn back to your notebook, ignoring the way your cheeks are heating up. Aaron’s stubborn and arrogant, he’s been nothing but a complete ass since you first met him. There’s nothing else to say on the matter and no reason for you to be embarrassed for meeting his eye.

The drive from Verona to Siena is long, so every few hours Aaron pulls over for fuel and a stretch break. You always manage to wander as you stretch your legs and get lost in your thoughts. As much as you’re fighting to stay in the present, it’s hard not to imagine what this trip would be like under ideal circumstances. How you’d have a travel partner, someone by your side and taking in the sights with you, someone’s ear to talk off about facts you’d learned while preparing for the trip. You sigh and wrap your arms around yourself, pretending they belong to someone else.

“Now that is a sigh that holds a story,” Dave says, approaching you from behind. You jump and turn to face him, face already heating up. “Sorry, I didn’t realize you were so lost in thought.”

You shake your head, “No, it’s okay. I was just, admiring the view.” You nod towards the hills, the sweeping countryside that looks like it belongs on a postcard. Dave hums, looking out over the hills too. You stand in silence for a moment but you can feel his anticipation. You stubbornly stay silent, trying to ignore his presence and unasked question, but only last a minute. “My partner was supposed to be here with me. We were engaged and had this trip planned for months, a grand adventure before the wedding,” you laugh wetly, amused by the situation. “It was our compromise since we wanted different honeymoons. An adventure through Europe, exploring the cities and the countryside and doing things the whole time versus a week spent relaxing on the beach doing nothing. So we agreed on two trips, one exploring Italy before the wedding and the beach for our honeymoon,” you explained. You took a steadying breath before continuing, “But, four months ago there was an accident and my partner passed away.”

Dave whispers your name, but you just shrug and look out towards the horizon. “The trip was already booked and some of my friends from my old job convinced me to extend it. Make it longer and just, get away from everything. I took their advice, and well. Now I’m here,” you smile softly at him, his kind eyes meeting yours. You’d gone so long without having to tell people that you’d lost your partner, and now in a span of about 10 days you’d told the secretaries and Dave. The story wasn’t easier to tell, but you were surprised to feel the pain a little less each time you did.

The two of you stand in silence again for a moment. And then Aaron’s calling your names and you take a steadying breath before heading back to the car. You know even without asking him that he won’t tell Aaron. That he understands it’s your story to tell and you’ll tell it when you’re ready. Or when you have to.

The rest of the drive passes uneventfully, Dave telling stories about his summer spent in Siena and the adventures he’d had. The trouble he convinced Carolyn to get into and all the ways they found time to see each other. A smile tugs at your face hearing the nostalgia in his voice. Hearing Dave talk about Carolyn reassures you that this adventure is a good idea. Dave deserves that kind of happiness, that kind of love, again.

Before long, Aaron’s pulling into the hotel on the outskirts of Siena. Dave gets you all checked in, he’d insisted on paying for your room as a thank you for getting him here, leaving you and Aaron to wait for your keys. You can’t bring yourself to even attempt a conversation with Aaron, your brain still processing your conversation with Dave earlier. Aaron keeps shifting around, adjusting his stance and glancing over at you. Out of the corner of your eye you see him open and close his mouth a few times, but ultimately he stays quiet. You arch an eyebrow, turning your face towards him but he just shakes his head. So you settle into silence as you wait for Dave.

When he comes back towards the two of you, Aaron is quick to push off the wall and get his key from Dave before grabbing his bag and turning to say goodnight.

“Ah, Aaron,” Dave interrupts with a hand in the air, “how about you help our guest to their room? It’s across the hall from yours anyway.”

Aaron looks down and you swear you see the tips of his ears turn red. But then he’s approaching you, a hand out for your bag, “Well then?”

You hand it over and follow Aaron to the elevator. Dave’s a few floors below you, so he gives each of you a kiss on the cheek before exiting and heading to his own room. Without Dave, you and Aaron fall back into an awkward silence. Aaron looks over at you and opens his mouth before closing it with a shake of his head.

“What?” you spit out, glaring at him.

“I - just wanted to ask if you’re okay,” he stammers, “after the drive.”

You blink at him. “I’m fine,” you say slowly.

“Good. Yeah, good.” Aaron turns back to the doors and thankfully they open onto your floor. Aaron lets you exit the elevator first and you make your way down the hall to your rooms. “Well, here’s your key. Let me uh- ”

“I’ve got it. Thanks, Aaron. Goodnight.” You take your bag from him and quickly enter the room, leaving a stunned Aaron in the hallway.

Dave and Aaron are already sitting at a table the next morning when you get downstairs for breakfast. You can see Dave nudge Aaron’s leg, making him get up and pull out your seat for you. You sit down and mumble out a thanks before turning to Dave and asking for the day's plan.

“Go to where Carolyn and I used to spend our time together, the fields near the barn she worked at,” Dave explains with a shrug. “Then we find her and I tell her that I was an idiot for leaving her.”

“Sounds simple enough,” you laugh, pouring yourself a cup of coffee.

But, it would seem that you spoke too soon.

Dave easily directed Aaron to where Carolyn worked, around the fields where they spent their time together, and even some of their regular haunts. But there was nothing there. The few people you did run into didn’t seem to know Carolyn, just looking confused and shrugging their shoulders.

Dave sighs and hangs his head as you walk back to the car. Aaron walks beside you, a few steps ahead of him. His jaw is clenched, fists balled at his side. You cross your arms, knowing he’s going to blame this whole thing on you. As turns to face you, you stick your chin up and meet his flinty gaze.

“Happy? Now he’s gotten his heart broken. No Carolyn Bartolini, no long lost love, just disappointment,” Aaron hisses.

“He tried, Aaron. Isn’t that something? Isn’t it better to know and to try?” you throw back. He backs away, as if he’s been slapped, and shakes his head.

“No, sometimes it’s not.”

You stop, watch him lean against the car and see the line of tension across his shoulders. Dave comes up next to you, rests a hand on your shoulder.

“We tried, didn’t we?”

You look at him and scoff, “And what? We’re just going to give up?” Dave looks at you, a little shocked. “Dave, I used to be a fact checker. I find things. Carolyn probably just didn’t stay with this job. We can still find her.” Aaron turns around and glares at you. You meet his gaze again, refusing to be the first to look away.

“How? By knocking on every door and asking if Carolyn Bertolini is home?”

“Well, yes,” you reply matter of factly.

Aaron blinks at you for a moment before exclaiming, “A wild goose chase? That’s your big solution, a wild goose chase where we knock on strangers’ doors? No, there’s no way we’re doing that. Dave, we need to get home.”

“Aaron, this was my job for years. Trust me, we’ll find her. And this is how we do it, by going through all the possibilities.”

“It’s been nearly 50 years! How do we know she’ll remember Dave? Or he’ll remember her?” Aaron points out. “No offense Dave, but you know what I meant,” he adds on, wincing. Dave just nods in understanding, climbing into the car.

You and Aaron stare at each other, neither giving up an inch. After a minute, he sighs and opens the car door. “Let’s just get back to the hotel.”

The ride back is silent. Aaron’s hands grip the steering wheel tight, while Dave looks out the window. You just sit in the back, mind racing with what you’ll need to compile your list of Carolyns. The prospect of a search, a hunt, has your blood pumping and you bite back a smile, not wanting to get too far ahead of yourself. Aaron’s going to be hard to convince and you aren’t certain Dave is ready for it either. It’s been a while though since you had the chance to flex your skills and the challenge of finding Carolyn is exciting. And definitely has nothing to do with wanting to prove Aaron wrong. You want to do this for Dave, for his chance at true love.

And that’s what you reiterate as you sit at a table by the pool with both men. There’s a laptop in front of you, begrudgingly fetched by Aaron, and you’ve started a search for Carolyn Bartolini’s.

“I still don’t believe this can work. It’s been nearly 50 years,” Aaron protests, standing by the table in board shorts and a t-shirt.

“And I’m telling you, people’s memories are better than you give them credit for.” You take a deep breath and face him, “Besides, we’re talking about love, true love. Tell me you wouldn’t recognize your true love after any length of time.”

Something dark crosses Aaron’s face, but before you can even question it it’s gone. “It’s still looking for a needle in a haystack,” he grumbles.

“Aaron, didn’t you say you wanted to swim? Go for a swim,” Dave says, pushing the other man towards the pool.

You hide a chuckle behind your hand as Dave cajoles Aaron, leaving the two of you to talk. Your eyes follow Aaron as he turns away and takes off his white t-shirt. The muscles barely hidden by his polo shirts flex in the afternoon sunlight as he stretches, holding your attention. There’s some scars running across his torso, barely visible and you absently wonder what they might be from. But the stretch of muscles as he raises his hands to dive into the pool distracts you from that particular train of thought as you follow his form through the water.

Dave calls your name and you whip your head around to him, cheeks heating up. “You know, for someone who spends most of his day behind a desk, Aaron is obsessed with making sure he stays in shape. You know he ran a triathlon in February?”

“Huh.” You pause, seeing Aaron surface out of the corner of your eye. “I guess he would be the kind of person who has to stay in shape,” you shrug, writing it off as a vanity thing. You turn back to the computer to look at the list of Carolyn Bartolini’s that had shown up. There are…more than you expected. You sort the list by location and start marking them on a map, focusing mostly on Tuscany. Taking even that into account leaves too many. You stare at the map, tapping your marker against your lips. You see Dave fiddling with a chain across the table and sit up.

“Dave,” you catch his attention, “would Carolyn have left this area?”

He shakes his head, “No, she loved these hills and this place too much. She wouldn’t go far.”

“Can I see your chain?” He hands it to you slowly, face clearly questioning you. You meet his eyes and nod reassuringly, before taking the chain and measuring it against the map’s scale. And from Siena, you measure out a radius of that scale and draw a circle. “Those are our Carolyn Bartolini’s,” you announce.

taglist: @qvid-pro-qvo @averyhotchner @kelstark @hurricanejjareau

#criminal minds #aaron hotchner #aaron hotchner x reader #aaron hotchner fanfiction #criminal minds fanfiction #letters to juliet #letters to juliet au #romcom au #david rossi #my writing #what if tag #charlie rambles

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hortushorrei · 5 years ago

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We kind of live in the middle of nowhere, Italy. On good days I love the sky, the land, the space, the wind, even the fog. On not so good days I call this area "the armpit of Italy". Hot, humid, and nobody's idea of a great place to spend a holiday. I am always delighted when people return. A friend once arrived at Verona's airport and called from a rental car to say "We are headed toward some amazing mountains and driving through a hilly landscape." I told him to turn around and head for the plains. 😂 #lamacchinafissa #readingretreats #borgovirgilio #porivervalley #mantua #ruralroads #ruralitaly (presso La Macchina Fissa) https://www.instagram.com/p/B7Y_2aRoau6/?igshid=1v20o6j0r17la

#lamacchinafissa #readingretreats #borgovirgilio #porivervalley #mantua #ruralroads #ruralitaly

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taxinccverona-blog · 7 years ago

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Taxinccverona is a car rental company operating in Verona, Lake Garda, Venice, Bergamo, Bologna, Brescia, Treviso and Milan, providing car for hire for local, special events and airport transport. Taxis can be booked online at https://taxinccverona.com/prenota/ or by calling on +393279920546.

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rosefrancaise4 · 5 years ago

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Day 30 - Friday 31 May 2019

What a great second last day in Verona. The sun came out and brought a new energy to the streets. There were people everywhere in the Piazza del Erbe and the market sellers were doing a roaring trade in hats instead of ponchos and umbrellas. There are at least 6 boutiques selling bikinis in Verona and up until today it seemed impossible that anyone would need one. I envy Italy the summer it is about to have but it has been waiting a very long time for it.

My incursion into the most fashionable end of town (while David was up at the river sketching) was a fun exercise in window shopping but resulted in not a single purchase. We met at our local bar at 2pm and after a couple of drinks and some tasty tapas I was ready to hit the shops again. This time I accidentally found an ethical shopping brand called Progetto Quid that creates limited collection editions of clothes and accessories from otherwise wasted high quality textiles. The clothes are made by people – mostly women – with vulnerable pasts for whom Progetto Quid is often a new beginning. I had two women help me with colours and sizes so emerged triumphant.

I made my way to the Piazza Bra after that to sit for a while beside the fountain, which was fortuitous because just at that moment David’s bus was pulling into the Piazza (he had been to the station to book us a rental car for Lake Garda). We were like a couple of locals meeting up after work for an aperitif in the shadow of the Arena, which looked very different under a piercing blue sky. Earlier in the day David had found another great little square near us, the Piazza dei Signori, so that is where we went for dinner. We were lucky to find a table and in my excitement at finding oysters on the menu I lost sight of the fact that half a dozen oysters was going to cost 24 Euros – nearly $50!

How to capture the activity in the Piazza dei Signori? First a busking piano accordionist with a playlist straight from the band that used to play at the Lyndhurst in the 1980s where I waitressed briefly and not very unsuccessfully. Loving himself sick we thought as he showed off some fancy footwork – but we worried that he wouldn’t raise enough money. Men selling luminous spinning tops they sent soaring into the night sky to attract the attention of children around them. The two little girls who bought them tried valiantly to send them up but with little success. Tiny little kids with colourful helmets riding equally tiny bikes with training wheels and one toddler tottering way up on his toes beside his dad. Then a very touching scene in which a girl of around 11 was teaching her younger sister (we supposed) some ballet moves. The little sister was dressed in a voluminous pink ballet skirt and her sister was patiently putting her into position, adjusting her feet, twirling her around. They danced absorbed across the square in their own graceful secure world. Finally, to top it off, this little kid comes riding into the piazza in a motorised white sports car, looking for all the world like a miniature version of The Godfather. Priceless.

Its finals night for Dancing with the Stars - tempers are flaring, some contestants are not taking the judge’s criticism lying down. We hope that our favourites win. After such an indulgent and relaxing day I am going to have to do some serious walking tomorrow.

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bardoliners · 2 years ago

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Some Of The Best Beaches To Visit In Bardolino, Italy

With its perfectly clear waters and amazing view, the sea shores of Lake Garda don't have anything to begrudge to those of the remainder of Italy. Here is a rundown of the best sea shores on the shores of Lake Garda, separated by the three regions that are moved by its waters: Verona, toward the east, Brescia, toward the west, and Trento, toward the north. Let’s look at Peschiera del Garda. Lido artificial intelligence pioppi in Peschiera del Garda is an extremely pleasant free ocean side, and - as frequently occurs on the Lake - is a rock ocean side. This Lido is extremely near the downtown area, and it's effectively reachable by bicycle, because of the bicycle trail Peschiera-Bardolino. When visiting Bardolino, choose Miglior hotel Bardolino.

Bar and Cafes -

Lido simulated intelligence Pioppi is furnished with a bar, a café and a pedal boat rental. Moreover, this ocean side is additionally reasonable for kids. Spiaggia Cappuccini is a stone and grass free ocean side with a bar, an eatery and a pedal boat rental. This Lido is uniquely reasonable for youngsters, because of the presence of a jungle gym. Make sure that you also visit the B&B Lago di Garda here. Bracco Baldo Ocean side is perhaps the earliest pet-accommodating ocean side in Italy. The entrance is free; however, you can lease a sun umbrella and get a pet pack for your four-legged companion. Close by there are likewise a bar, a café and a pedal boat rental.

Sand Ocean in Lazise -

Spiaggia La Marra is a lovely sand ocean side in Lazise, with an enormous parking area close by (likewise named "Marra"). The ocean side is effectively open from by means of Prà del Principe through an entryway that is shut from 0.30 am to 7.30 am. Close by you can track down bar, eateries, a setting up camp region, a pedal boat rental and a kayak rental. Also, do visit the best food place migliori b&b italia. Spiaggia delle Rose is one more decent ocean side in the town focal point of Lazise.

#Miglior B&B Italia #B&B Bardolino

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roadkings · 2 years ago

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Milan 2022 (5 of 5)

After five drives of 4+ hours, we were all happy for our short 90 minutes from Varenna to Milan. We returned our rental car and started exploring. I didn’t have high hopes for Milan. In 2017 we were there for just a few hours, a quick stop on our drive from Lake Como to Verona, not long enough to really get a feel for the city. This time, we were all hungry so our first stop was NAME, for fried pizza. The dough was incredible, light and chewy despite being fried. With full tummies, we rounded a corner and there was the Duomo! It is magnificent, like something out of a movie. We had seen it in 2017 and did the terraces walk, so we just enjoyed it from the outside this time. We got checked into our super fun hotel just blocks from city center, and were delighted to see that our room went out to a balcony on an interior courtyard where I could walk next door to knock on the window of the kids’ room. I used that to deliver coffee to Alex the next morning without having to get out of my robe.

Our time in Milan was dominated by food and shopping, with just the right amount of culture interspersed. Dinners were at LuBar, the family run Oseria del Treno with their pistachio-pepper gelato, and the Japanese restaurant Gastornomica Yamamoto. All good and each memorible in its own way—LuBar for its cocktails and interior, Osteria for its family feel and fun service, and Yamamoto for serving unexpected Japanese food in Italy. We also had breakfast at the spectacular Marchesa 1824, a pistachio colored jewel box of pastries and confections, owned and run by Prada. We also went window shopping among the street after street of couture brands, and actual shopping in the Brera Design Disrict (Benheart, Santa Maria Novella, and Rick Owens); we even found a street wear resale shop for Alex, called Slam Jam.

Thanks to Fritz for getting up in the middle of the night for tickets to see The Last Supper, we did that on the morning of our last day in Milan. Out guide was excellent, and I have such a greater appreciation of the mastery of Leonardo daVinci after seeing the paining and hearing her speak about it with such adoration.

Though I didn’t have high hopes for Milan, it is now one of my favorite places I’ve visited. The size is great, a bustling city, but not over crowded, good food, great shopping, nice people, and surprisingly calm and orderly (other than Malpensa airport, that place makes Hartsfield look orderly). I look forward to getting back there, as do we all.

Now we are on a plane headed home. Ella and Alex are sitting together watching movies, and José’s head is in my lap while he catches a nap (thanks to the gate agent for moving us to a row with an open middle seat!). It has been three years since we all traveled internationally. The world has been through a lot. We saw more Americans on this trip than any other we have taken, I think this is due to everyone being essentially forbidden from traveling internationally for the last two summers. This is also why we covered so much ground on this trip, seeing so many places. The kids are now three years older, which makes for different dynamics, and we are keenly aware of how few of these trips we have left with them. Despite the ups and downs, and covering so much in so little time, I hope they remember this one fondly; I certainly will.

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worldlifetimejourneys · 4 years ago

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topfygad · 5 years ago

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3 Day Itinerary to Verona and Lake Garda

Of all the destinations in Italy, Verona and Lake Garda are often overlooked. I didn’t regret at all choosing these cities for my visit. Through this itinerary, you can enjoy the best of Verona and Lake Garda in just 3 days!

The view of Monte Baldo from San Felice in Lake Garda

About Verona & Lake Garda

When choosing cities to visit in Italy, Verona may not be most people’s top choice. Relatively close to other bigger cities like Milan and Venice, small enough to be explored within a short period, this city would be perfect to be included in your next Italian bucketlist. The city has all the historical venues, romantic places, and serves as a gateway to an even more wonderful destination, Lake Garda.

Despite being the biggest lake in Italy, it is still less famous and touristy than its neighbor, Lake Como. This doesn’t mean that this lake is any less beautiful. There are several towns surrounding this lake, Sirmione, Salo, Riva—to name a few. Upon your visit, you can pick to stay at one of these towns.

About This Itinerary

This itinerary was inspired by my visit to this area last September. Obviously, the great thing about visiting on the shoulder season is that it’s less crowded and expensive, but we can still enjoy the wonderful weather. In Verona, it was still very humid and hot especially during the day. While in Lake Garda, the temperature was mostly great and sunny even though it gets misty in the morning and night.

You can easily swap out the days between exploring Verona and Lake Garda, whether you prefer to visit Verona at the beginning or at the end of your 3-day stay. This itinerary will focus on the south-western part of Lake Garda (Gardone Riviera to Peschiera).

How to get to and around Verona & Lake Garda

Verona is a very accessible city. You can come either by plane, train or bus from other cities in or outside of Europe.

Verona Porta Nuova train station

By Plane

There are several non-European flights coming into Verona Villafranca Airport, such as from Egypt, Tunisia, and Israel. Other than that, most of the flights are coming from within Europe.

From the airport, you can take Bus 199 to Verona Stazione FS then continue to the city center. There is no direct transit from the airport to Lake Garda, so you will need to take Bus 199 first.

By Train

The train from all over Italy and other countries will stop at Verona Porta Nuova. The train station is located comfortably in the city center, so you can continue on foot or by short bus ride.

If you plan to continue directly to Lake Garda, you can buy a train ticket (Trenitalia/Trenord) to Peschiera or Desenzano, which is on the south of the lake.

Scenic drive from Verona to Lake Garda

By Bus

The main bus station is Verona Stazione FS which is just outside Verona Porta Nuova, you can check the bus schedules and routes here.

By Car

If you want to do a road trip from another European city, Verona & Lake Garda are just north of the A4 and west of the A22 autostrada. Prepare the money for the autostrada.

This is also the most convenient way to explore Lake Garda, but expect heavier traffic and more crowded parking areas during summer months.

Verona and Lake Garda Itinerary

Day 1

Breakfast around Piazza Bra

The best way to enter Verona in style is through I Portoni della Bra, which will lead you to Piazza Bra. This arc is relatively a new one because in ancient time, the entrance to Verona is through Porta Borsari.

I Portoni della Bra

In this piazza you will find some notable buildings around the area, namely Arena di Verona and Palazzo Barbieri. You will also find a lot of restaurants, cafes, and gelato shops, but the one right on the piazza is very expensive. You can walk around the smaller streets and see a café that you like. My recommendation is Caffè Dersut a short walk to via Roma. After a cup of coffee and a brioche, enjoy the morning sun a bit more before heading towards other sites.

Arena di Verona

This looks like a smaller version of the Colosseum, but nothing less impressive. This amphitheater is also still very well preserved. Nowadays, the arena is used for concerts, opera performances and orchestra-philharmonic that attract visitors from around the world. If you happen to be in Verona in June 2020, make sure you come to the Opera Festival.

Right in front of the Arena, there is a statue of Vittorio Emanuele II, the first King of united Italy who assumes nickname of Padre de la Patria (Father of the Fatherland). There is also Palazzo Barbieri on the other side, which is now a city hall building. This part of town is usually very crowded, so always watch your belongings.

Juliet’s Balcony

Casa di Giulietta

Only a short (confusing) walk from the Arena, you will find the other main attraction of this city. Juliet’s House is always overcrowded with tourists . Inside, you will find Juliet’s statue and the famous balcony. On the entrance, the wall is plastered with love letters from people all over the world who pours out their feeling in writing to (fictional) Juliet.

If you’re confused how can one send a letter to a fictional person, you’re not alone. The letters are actually handled by “Secretaries of Juliet” from Club di Giulietta, which is funded by the township of Verona. You can actually sign up to be one or book with them to read archive of these letters.

The crowd at Piazza delle Erbe

Lunch around Piazza delle Erbe

After wrestling your way in and out of Juliet’s House, it would be nice to have a good lunch. Next Piazza to visit is only few minutes away. This Piazza was a forum back in ancient Roman days and now people still gather here around the square.

I would recommend Sapore Pizza. Even though I don’t really like typical thick northern Italian pizza, I found the pizza delicious and very affordable. You can also have some dessert, go get a gelato! Gelateria Imperio would be my go-to gelato place at the piazza.

Stroll around Centro Storico and enjoy Adige River view

Enjoy your chilly treat and continue walking around. On the north of the Piazza there is Torre dei Lamberti, where you can climb the tower (either by stairs or elevator) and enjoy bird’s eye view of Verona. If you walk towards the north, you will end up at Verona Cathedral and Ponte Pietra, which are great places to see as well.

Aside from being very pedestrian-friendly, the narrow streets of Verona to are very picturesque. Why don’t you stop a bit and take some pictures?

Adige River in Verona

Getting to Lake Garda from Verona

You have finished exploring the whole Verona city center in just a day! Next you can choose to drive or take train/bus to Lake Garda and enjoy the sunset on the way, or you can stay in Verona for the night and head there in the morning.

Day 2

Exploring Gardone Riviera

After having breakfast, we can explore the western part of the lake. The must-visit attraction is this impressive lakeside estate called Vittoriale degli Italiani.

The Italian writer Gabriele d’Annunzio once lived in one of the buildings in this estate. The estate comprises a villa, an amphitheater, a cruiser, and a boathouse. During your visit, you will learn about the history of this estate and be given an amazing view of the lake. You can book your ticket in advance on their site, it costs EUR8 for the non-guided tour.

Boat trip around Lake Garda

Picnic, Sunbathing and Boat Trip

If you have not had enough amazing view of the lake, drive south a little bit to San Felice. There are various beaches along the lake but this one is definitely my favorite. You can stop by the supermarket to buy picnic supplies, lay down a mat or towel by the lake and enjoy the sun! This beach is especially hectic during the summer months.

Want to take it up a notch? There is Garda Boat Rental along the beach where you can rent a boat for half a day (4 hours) and go around the lake a little bit. The afternoon is best as the morning mist is gone, you can enjoy the view of Monte Baldo on the other side and the castle at Isola del Garda. The small boat can take up to 7 passengers and only costs around EUR120 on shoulder to low season!

You can find affordable lakefront restaurants in some parts of Lake Garda

Dinner at Desenzano

After a great day by the water, it’s time for amazing dinner. Most of the restaurants around Lake Garda are expensive, especially ones in front of the lake. I would recommend Santa, it is one of the more affordable restaurants in front of the lake. It has an amazing view, awesome food, friendly and quick service despite being a busy night there.

As Lake Garda is more catered towards families and honeymooners, there is barely any nightlife here. So enjoy some restful night before more adventure on the next day.

Day 3

Rocca Scaligera & Grotte di Catullo

In the morning, we drive to Sirmione, which is the peninsula in the south of Lake Garda. There are plenty of attractions in Sirmione, but there are two that you shouldn’t miss. The first one is Rocca Scaligera (Scaligero Castle), a fortified port that was built in 13th century by the Scaliger Family of Verona, which is said to be the most well-conserved in the country. If you look at Lake Garda pictures on Instagram, there are plenty of drone shots because the panoramic view of this place is incredible. If you decide to enter, there is a museum that houses medieval artifacts inside.

Scaligero Castle of Sirmione

The second site is called Grotte di Catullo. You should visit this site If you enjoyed or wanted to visit Pompeii. Surrounded by olive groves, this ancient Roman villa was constructed in 1st century AD and still well-preserved until this day. Enjoy the amazing view of Lake Garda from the ruins of the villa, which also has a museum in it. This site also serves as the set for Call Me By Your Name movie.

The ticket price is EUR14 for the castle, ruins & museum combo. It opens for longer hours during summer, even though the museum only opens until 2pm. These places are closed every Monday, January 1st, May 1st, and December 25th.

Winery tour around Sirmione

Lake Garda region is the northernmost Mediterranean climate in Italy, so it is mild enough to cultivate grapes, olives and citrus trees. Make sure you do a wine tasting or winery tour during your visit. The area is known for its Bardolino, a light red and Chiaretto Rosato, an even lighter and refreshing white.

There are so many wineries and tour operators offering winery tour, pick one that suits your preference, including whether you would like to be picked up at your accommodation, whether you would like the one that includes food, etc. My only advise would be, don’t drink and drive!

Wine Tasting around Lake Garda

The price for a tasting could range pretty significantly between one winery and the other, as well as the tasting menu. I would recommend Onepiò, they offer from light wine tasting (three kinds of wine and breadsticks) all the way to platinum wine tasting (eight kinds of wine and variants of Italian chocolate).

Dinner & going back to Verona

If you still want to get dinner around Lake Garda, there are plenty of good restaurants in Sirmione and Peschiera. I discovered Pasta Salame in Peschiera, a restaurant with a simple menu that is less touristy, very affordable and tastes really good. If you still have room for dessert, make sure to try their tiramisu.

How to Travel to Verona & Lake Garda on a Budget

Lake Garda has been known as the summer destination for the elites, even in medieval times. With some tweaks and planning (and a lot of research) you will be able to stay in these cities without spending too much.

Accommodation Verona & Lake Garda

When picking a place to stay in Verona, pick accommodation right in the city center (Cittadella, Citta Antica) so you will be able to walk to all the important attractions.

To pick a place to stay in Lake Garda, that would depend on the mode of transportation you have. If you depend on public transportation, I would advise staying closer to the lakeside so you can walk to the lake without spending too much on bus ticket. If you rent a car, you can stay a bit further from the lakeside for cheaper, nicer accommodation.

Finding cheap and awesome accommodations around Lake Garda is not too difficult

We stayed at a wonderful villa in Puegnago, with free breakfast, bathtub, huge pool and amazing (farther) view of the lake for only EUR120 per night. In comparison, similar place in Desenzano costs at least EUR205 per night. If you want more simple room, you could definitely get one for a lot cheaper.

Food in Verona & Lake Garda

If you’re not too fussy about food, there are plenty of food stalls that offers delicious sliced pizza and panini for a really low price. Just take the food and eat at a park or back at your accommodation. If you want some pasta, you should try to find places where they offer a more simple menu and most locals go. You can also buy supplies at the supermarket (the local ones are called “Alimentari”) and wine bottles for a really cheap price before visiting an attraction.

Attractions in Verona & Lake Garda

Most of the attractions in Verona are free. The views in both Lake Garda and Verona are amazing, so you don’t really have to pay for anything. The attractions I mentioned above are totally worth it for a small amount of money, but you can totally skip them and still having a good time!

When to Visit Verona & Lake Garda

As you have guessed, visiting during the summer months will make everything more expensive. I highly suggest visiting in May, September or October. In winter months the region gets cold and in Lake Garda, it may get foggy. But if you love winter sports, you can go high altitude skiing on Monte Baldo or go for a thermal bath in Sirmione.

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This post was originally published in October 2019

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Lago Di Braies: Mountain Lake in the Dolomites

South Tyrol, Italy

Arguably one of Italy’s most beautiful lakes, Lago di Braies is a bright blue mountain lake in the heart of the Dolomites. Here are some tips for visiting & having a good time!

No trip to the Dolomites in South Tyrol Italy is complete without a stop at Lago di Braies, (aka Pragser Wildsee in German).

I’ve seen a lot of mountain lakes during my travels, but this one is pretty spectacular! It has become a popular Instagram photography spot.

You can hike around the lake taking in different views of the mountains above, or rent a row-boat and float on the surface of its deep blue-green water.

I’ve been to this lake a few times now and wanted to share some tips for visiting Italy’s Lago di Braies on your own!

Lago Di Braies Travel Guide

Lake Braies is part of the Fanes-Sennes-Braies nature park, in a side valley next to the Val Pusteria.

At an altitude of 1,496 m (4,908 ft), the 77-acre lake makes for a wonderful half-day trip while traveling through the Prags Dolomites.

You Need to Rent a Boat!

Everyone Wants a Boat Photo

Boat Rentals On The Lake

Probably the most popular activity to do on the lake is rent one of the cool wooden row-boats and cruise around the photogenic emerald colored waters.

You can row your boat all the way across to the beach on the opposite side, or just sit in the middle of the lake for an hour drinking in that epic view!

There are many boats available to rent, but in recent years, they may run out of them after 11am when the big crowds start to arrive — forcing you to wait a bit.

This is why I recommend getting there early if you can, preferably right before the boathouse opens up around 9:30am.

Boat Rental Season: June – September

Opening Hours: 9:30am to 5pm

Price: €25 EURO for one hour, another €15 EURO every 30 minutes after that.

Chapel on the Lake

The Chapel

On the West side of the lake, there is a small chapel that was built in 1904. The location has a curious bit of history, in that during World War II a German SS commander chose it as a meeting place for a prisoner exchange to ensure his own safety.

Hiking around Lago Di Braies

Hiking Around The Lake

There is an easy hiking trail loop that circles the lake. The walk takes about an hour depending on your pace, with a few nice lookout points and even small beaches for sunbathing.

At the South (back) end of the lake, additional hiking trails head up into the mountains (Croda del Becco) for people who are interested in a more challenging trek.

Parking Lot at the Lake

How To Get To Lago Di Braies

The lake is located in the municipality of Braies/Prags in the Dolomites of South Tyrol, Northern Italy. Braies itself is pretty small, the closest city nearby is Bolzano, Italy. ➜ CLICK HERE FOR MAP

Rental Car

The best site to book your car is Discover Car Hire. They search both local and international car rental companies to help you find the best possible price. This is the easiest way to rent a car in Italy.

MILAN – Lago di Braies is 377 km (5 hours) from Milan by car. VERONA – The lake is 252 km (3 hours) from Verona by car. VENICE – The lake is 207 km (3 hours) from Venice by car. AUSTRIA – The lake is 29 km (30 minutes) from the Austrian border by car.

Parking at the lake is free for the first hour, then after that, it’s €8 EURO per day.

By Train

Many people reach the Italian Dolomites by taking a train from Milan to Bolzano, which takes about 3 hours. Once you’re in Bolzano, you can either rent a car, or jump on another train to Niederdorf (Villabassa). From there you can take a bus.

By Bus

There is a local bus (Bus from the Niederdorf (Villabassa) train station that stops off at Lago di Braies between June 20th and September 20th.

Hotel Lago di Braies

Where To Stay Near Lake Braies

Lago di Braies actually has its own hotel right on the lake called Hotel Lago di Braies (minimum 3-night stay). However there are other options nearby too, so here are some additional hotel recommendations:

Best Accommodation For Lago Di Braies

BUDGET Trenker Luis

MID-RANGE Steinerhof

LUXURY Hotel Lago di Braies

Camping Near The Lake

There are two camping/RV areas near the lake: Camping Olympia and Camping Al Plan. It is not possible to camp on the grounds of the lake itself.

Anna Posing for her Shot

Reflections on the Water

Tips For Visiting Lago di Braies

You can buy lunch or snacks at the hotel next door, plus there is a little restaurant/bar at the entrance to the lake too.

The best time for landscape photography at Lago di Braies is early morning. In the summer, the morning sun lights up the water around 8:30am.

Due to the lake’s popularity, large crowds begin showing up around 10am.

Drone flying is not allowed at the lake. The area is private property, and there are “no drone” signs posted.

Packing Guide

Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip. Pick up a travel backpack, camera gear, and other useful travel accessories.

Book Your Flight

Find cheap flights on Skyscanner. This is my favorite search engine to find deals on airlines. Also make sure to read how I find the cheapest flights.

Rent A Car

Discover Car Hire is a great site for comparing car prices to find the best deal. They search both local & international rental companies.

Book Accommodation

Booking.com is my favorite hotel search engine. Or rent apartments from locals on Airbnb. Read more about how I book cheap hotels online.

Protect Your Trip

Don’t forget travel insurance! I’m a big fan of World Nomads for short-term trips. Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read more about why you should always carry travel insurance.

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