#tarlatan
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La Mode illustrée, no. 14, 1er avril 1866, Paris. Toilettes de Melle Raboin, r Nve. des Pts Champs, 67. Ville de Paris / Bibliothèque Forney
Description de toilettes:
Robe de dessous en tarlatane blanche à bord bouillonné divisé en losanges par d'étroits velours noirs, ornés à leurs points de jonction par des étoiles dorées. Seconde robe en poult-de-soie blanc, plus courte que la précédente. Le bord, découpé en courbes, est orné de rubans en velours noir, garni d'étoiles d'or et d'un volant en dentelle blanche retombant en partie sur le bord bouillonné de la robe de dessous; corsage décolleté, plissé, en tarlatane blanche, avec corselet de velours noir, orné par devant d'étoiles dorées; manches courtes bouillonnées comme le bas de la robe en tarlatane. Sur la tête, diadème en velours noir avec étoiles d'or ; trois rangs de perles d'or sont attachés sur chaque oreille et retombent sur le cou par devant.
Robe de dessous en foulard bleu bluet. Le bord est garni avec un volant tuyauté, surmonté d'une corde de soie, et le devant est brodé en soie de même nuance que la robe. Seconde robe, princesse, un peu plus courte que la précédente, ouverte par devant, et bordée avec une grosse corde de soie; cette seconde robe est relevée de distance en distance, et fixée sur celle de dessous par une double corde de soie terminée par un trèfle; brandebourgs de même corde sur le corsage et sur les manches. Chapeau de tulle bleu bluet. Col et poignets Richelieu en toile et guipure blanche.
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Underdress in white tarlatan with bubbled edge divided into diamonds by narrow black velvet, adorned at their junction points by golden stars. Second dress in white poult-de-silk, shorter than the previous one. The edge, cut in curves, is adorned with black velvet ribbons, trimmed with gold stars and a white lace flounce falling partly on the shirred edge of the underdress; low-cut, pleated bodice in white tarlatan, with black velvet bodice, adorned in front with gilt stars; short bubbled sleeves like the bottom of the tarlatan dress. On the head, black velvet diadem with gold stars; three rows of gold beads are attached to each ear and fall down the neck in front.
Bluet blue scarf underdress. The edge is trimmed with a fluted frill, surmounted by a silk cord, and the front is embroidered in silk of the same shade as the dress. Second dress, princess, a little shorter than the previous one, open in front, and edged with a thick silk cord; this second dress is raised from distance to distance, and fastened to that below by a double silk cord terminating in a trefoil; frogs of the same cord on the bodice and on the sleeves. Cornflower blue tulle hat. Richelieu collar and cuffs in canvas and white guipure.
#La Mode illustrée#19th century#1800s#1860s#1866#periodical#fashion#fashion plate#color#retouch#description#Forney#dress#toilette#Raboin#Rabouin#tarlatan#blue#princess#lace
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Isaiah tarlatan whipping aquatint plate #artprintresidence #aquatintetching #tarlatan (at Art Print Residence) https://www.instagram.com/p/CoCx2MiopHR/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=
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Full Evening Dress, c. 1850-1856
tarlatan, cotton (textile), satin, silk, metal
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mods are asleep, post my Degas ballerina cosplay!!
Finished in a horrifying 24 hour period in order to go to a phantom of the opera themed birthday party, this outfit has everything: hand covered buttons, little cotton trim around the neck that took a year off my life, and 5 yards of historically-accurate-but-annoying-to-work with cotton tarlatan for the skirt.
I can go on about the deets if anyone wants them, but I’m proud of this totally handmade and self drafter foray into phantom cosplay!!
Just think of it as elaborate fic research…
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Noël Dolla, Plis et Replis, Suite bleue, 2017, acrylic and dyed tarlatan on canvas, 59 × 59 inches.
Photo by François Fernandez. BOMB Magazine
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Vintage swan's down powder puff restoration (vintage swan's down and handle made of wood and carved bone, new silk ribbon, new cotton tarlatan reinforcement, new cotton stuffing)
The reason this needed to be restored in the first place was my fault. 😬 I bought an antique powder puff, and had seen some antique care instructions that stated that they could be washed. Well... not the kind with the silk top. I ruined the whole thing and felt horribly guilty about it. I managed, after a lot of VERY careful and painstaking work, to fluff up the feathers again, but the skin they were attached to (yes, these are like fur, in that it's made from a piece of the bird's skin with the feathers still attached) was papery and fragile, and the silk was completely ruined and stained from whatever it was stuffed with. I resolved to try to remake it as best as I could, so I carefully disassembled it. The side benefit of this was that I was able to see how it was constructed! I carefully applied some lanolin to the back of the swan skin in an attempt to make it less brittle (I have no idea if that was a good idea, but I was thinking of how to care for leather and it seems to have helped), ordered some 1.5 inch wide silk ribbon... and then put it in a drawer for 3 years, afraid to actually do the deed. 😂
Until today! I cut a circle of cotton tarlatan just slightly larger than the swan skin, to reinforce it and take any stress off the delicate material, and then I hand sewed one edge of the silk ribbon around the edge, going through all three layers at once. I then joined the ribbon into a tube and carefully turned it inside-out. The original had been filled with a "nest" of stiff straw (this is what stained the old silk) with a thin layer of cotton batting over it, but I used only cotton this time, pulling apart two cotton balls. I then ran a row of gathering stitches around the upper edge of the ribbon and drew it tight around the handle, tucking the edges inside.
It's a delicate, dainty little thing, and I'm glad I could fix it up and make it look nice again. (Learn from my mistakes and never EVER wash something like this!)
#Sewing#The ribbon looks so janky and too shiny in the pics but I promise it IS actually silk! 😂#It doesn't look perfect but I'd never done this before haha
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Watching the 1955 Sissi and we see other aunts who were also in Bad Ischl, but wasn't sure which ones. I think it was the Queens of Prussia and Saxony although two different sisters were both Queens of Saxony and one was Elise's identical twin and the other was Sophie's identical twin, but the Queen of Saxony actress wasn't identical to any of them and one of your older posts Sophie wrote to her twin so she wasn't there? Just curious who among the aunts were also in Bad Ischl in August 1853?
Hello! The movie is only half-right: Queen Elisabeth of Prussia was indeed one of the guests at Ischl in 1853, however none of the Queens of Saxony were present. The aunt that was actually invited was Empress Caroline of Austria, Sophie's elder half-sister and widow of Franz I.
From the letter recounting the events of the reunion that Sophie wrote to her twin Queen Marie of Saxony:
Charlotte [Empress Caroline] arrived on the 17th in the evening and appeared at the ball at ½9 o'clock, where Sisi looked delightful in a white and pink Tarlatan dress. (...) In the evening I could not refrain from saying to Elise [Queen Elisabeth] and the brothers as I passed by: 'I am so happy!' [about the engagement]
Another relative that was invited was Prince Karl Theodor of Bavaria, Sophie's half-brother.
My guess is that Caroline was replaced by one of the Saxon queens in the movie because Marischka thought it would be too confusing to explain the messy family tree lol. In fact I believe this is the reason why she NEVER appears in any Sisi media, her introduction would be something like "so yeah there's this character who's also the Empress of Austria because she is the widow of FJ's grandpa but she's not really his grandma (tho he treats her as such) because she was granpa's wife number 4 and FJ descends from wife number 2. She is his biological aunt tho and also Sisi's because she's their mothers' half-sister. Healthy family dynamics<3"
#screenwriters are cowards btw if it were up to me i would write caroline into every sisi story and never do any exposition whatsover#sisi calls her aunt fj calls her grandmama sophie and ludovika call her charlotte everyone else refers to her as empress caroline#this is never explained in any way#asks#sissi (1955)#queen elisabeth of prussia#empress caroline of austria
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Tomas finds Ke-mos creepy but I do think Tomas would take advantage of the fact he has a clone to get out of missions he really doesn't wanna do.
Of course this requires some lecturing first.
Smoke: Ok Ke-mos, you know I have a mission I really don't want to go on so could you could do it for me.
Ke-mos: Yeah.
Smoke: Thanks. But I'm gonna need you to hold back on the cannibalistic tendencies since you know...I'm not cannibal. And no overly sadistic stuff too.
Ke-mos: Sad tarlatan noises.
Yeah, we’ll see how long that lasts.
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Welcome Back (2023) edition of 6 intaglio etching
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Another print featuring Bluebell Littleears! literally 3/4 projects from this class are bluebell-centric lmao you can really tell I had her on the mind
Had a lot of fun with the textures and stuff... I think I should've reversed it made the darker part the foreground not the background lol but alas!
I actually quite enjoyed doing etchings! They weren't as well liked by the ppl in my class, and I hate the smell lol but I LOVED the part where you're gently wiping the ink off with tarlatan I really got a good feel for it it was great... I love lil repetitive task hehe
(posting all this stuff on this blog is making me realize I have another piece titled welcome back tho lol whoops)
some process photos:
digital sketch
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La Mode, 25 décembre 1841, Paris. Turban et bonnet d'Angleterre de Lemonnier Pelvey. Robe de velours et robe Tarlatan de Gagelin Opigez, rue Richelieu. Fleurs de Perrot, rue St. Denis, 275. Gants Mayer. Éventail de Giroux. Meubles de Maigret. Chaussures de Beaudrand, envois faits par la Maison de Commission Lassalle, 28 rue Taitbout. Digital Collections of the Los Angeles Public Library
Left- She is wearing a green short sleeved off the shoulder dress. The dress has yellow lining and a yellow tassel hanging from the waistline. She also has on white lappet with gold trimming and pink fringe. Right- She is wearing a white short sleeved off the shoulder dress. The skirt of the dress is decorated with three pink flowers. She is also wearing white lappet with pink flowers.
#La Mode#19th century#1840s#1841#on this day#December 25#periodical#fashion#fashion plate#color#description#lapl#dress#gown#evening
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Blanches ailes
c’est une peu comme si en remplissant le contenant de ses sentiments fretins elle laissait sur le papier couché cette colère flottante rabouiller quelques éphémères instants pour en produire un potamot aussi léger qu’un papier de vers aux modelés plus formels qu’une tarlatane trop empotée © Les faits Plumes © Giorgio Morandi
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First step
I have found printmaking, it is a wonderful thing.
I had previously only been a #watercolour painter, and I am enjoying the technical process involved in printmaking as I find a great number of similarities between the two, at least in the way that one has to build a picture from a base up. The common understanding that you begin and preserve the white paper is helpful, as opposed to other forms where the opposite is common of dark to light building of colour.
I joined a class at my local art gallery, Hazelhurst, and was producing collagraph prints with differing success.
Here I experimented with as many different texture producing things as possible in order to see what could be produced as outcomes in the printing process: corrugated cardboard, string, hessian, crêpe paper, paper doilies, cling wrap, glue along with some improvised punctures of the mat board also cutting and removal of the paper cover.
This plate, shown above was then covered in a sealant of varnish and dried under a hot hair dryer to enable printing straight away - what fun!
As this was my first print it was clear that I was not yet aware of how much ink was in fact too much, this is a key learning of course.
Too much ink and the print does not show much of the collagraph as the ink does not allow for any discernible change to be seen between different components of the collage, too little and there is no ink to record any of your textures onto the paper.
The amount of ink, and the amount of pressure applied is related just to add to the variability of printmaking. Too much pressure will draw out more ink, and too little pressure will only touch the surface of the collage. When this is combined with different ink types and different ink minerals, then the technicality of print making is just starting to present itself to you.
I am lucky to enjoy and appreciate experiment, I did not expect fantastic results straight away and learn to enjoy the process.
You can see that I did two prints, the original print - of the ink that I applied and then run through the press, and the ghost print - the same plate reprinted without adding any further ink.
Yes, my first print had way too much ink. I can make out the detail mainly because I laid out and put the collage together. Some of the scraping I did with some tarlatan, of course I did not remove anything close enough, hence one can see those scratch marks.
This ghost print is much better is showing the different elements of the collegraph. The string collects a great deal of ink on one or both sides, similar to the corrugated cardboard which is provides a more subtle line. The hessian (or tarlatan) does come out quite well as does the crêpe paper. I was interested in the difference between the section where the crêpe was cover with masking tape to produce a muted effect of the texture of the crêpe paper.
With the ghost the paper doilie detail is far clearer, and my use in attempt to symbolise the sun can be seen (with a long bow). The different clouds of cling wrap and cut away board produce different effects in the apparent sky. What is was most surprised was the small punctures did really bring out some interesting tonal texture in the printed surface (an almost emu skin effect from my perspective).
I am using this blog to simply record my works and progress, if you do get something out of it then it is great also - let me know.
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i think that one of the best things i learned in book arts class is that the stuff you glue over the signatures after youve sewn them together before you glue it to the cover board is tarlatan so whenever i am making a codex i start thinkign about the gymnast high above the ground bc through the tarlatan holes youve been slipping been slipping away and the weather will hold its been ever so ever so gray AGGHHHH!!!!
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Were Néné and Sissi wearing black because the whole Bavarian court was in mourning for the Queen-Dowager's brother Georg or was it specifically because the sisters and their mother had been to visit the Queen-Dowager's household on their way to Bad Ischl?
Hi! The whole Bavarian court was in mourning, as reported by the Münchener Bote für Stadt und Land (among other newspapers):
Munich, 12 Aug. Due to the death of the Grand Duke of Weimar, our royal court has, as of today, instituted a 14-day court mourning, and at the same time a 4-week court mourning due to the death of His Highness Duke Georg of Saxe-Altenburg.
That being said, the reason why the Duchesses traveled to Ischl wearing mourning dresses was because they payed a visit to Queen Therese on their way, as archduchess Sophie specifically pointed out: "In spite of the mourning that Luise [Duchess Ludovika] and her daughters had had to bear because of the visit to Therese" (Praschl-Bichler, 2008). If they hadn't they probably would've traveled wearing regular gowns, and as soon as their luggage arrived at Ischl, they abandoned the mourning: "at the ball (...) Sisi looked delightful in a white and pink Tarlatan dress" (Praschl-Bichler, 2008).
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The Gymnast, High Above The Ground
The gymnast, high above the ground, Limbers up and falls timbers down. Ankles splayed and all tied. The gymnast long has arrived. Lazy, your long sister lays Waiting out this long light brigade. Prayed for snow a long time. And lazy, it long has arrived. Through the tarlatan holes You’ve been slipping, been slipping away And the weather will hold It’s been ever so, ever so gray. But here as we’re…
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