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folkoreluvr · 2 years ago

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return of the dragon I - the prodigal child returns

loki x fem oc (stark)

summary: eight years ago, gracielle stark was banished from new york and all but disowned by her father Tony Stark. now shes back with a hazy past and powers she cant quite control. ones that her enemy, loki odinson knows all too well. and when people from graces past return with threats grace loki offers a helping hand in order to get close to her and figure out her true intentions.

warnings (gonna put these at the start of the fic and then not on seperate chapters so heres all warnings for the entire fic): blood, gore, graphic descriptions of violence and injury, death, murder, sex, smut, sexual assult, grooming (not romantic), readers a stark so gals fucked up, tony stark, slight kink content, gay people, not very canon compliant, stick the dick

w/c: 1.8k

authors note: im posting a ton about this on tiktok and its also being published on my wattpad- both are under midnightsloki. thanks for reading

It had been eight years since the fall of Gracielle Stark, since she had fled New York and the grasp of her soul-sucking family.

She had once belonged to the inventor dynasty, the great Stark family but grace had been too different and she had no intent of being like her father or the four generations before him. She was no scientist or inventor or even capable of social situations, she was a recluse. she hated parties and politics and business and making tech. She had been 16 when it had happened, her banishment, but the wound that had been caused was still bleeding and it was too deep to stitch up and bandage and get over it. Her father had granted her the life she wanted by erasing her from his own, if he had claimed her so much on a whim she couldn't pretend to be shocked when Tony Stark had dropped her. Blood may run thicker than water but it can slip between your fingers just the same. but This time it's different, for everyone, this time when she stands in a loud room and sips on a strong drink in a dress no short of elegant she knows that her father did not place her there, nor can he dispense her. Not this time. she would take back what he stole from her, she could play happy families if it meant finally getting revenge on her father for all the heartache he had caused her.

“We are about to be late to my own party where the hell is she.” Tony Stark murmured with annoyance, glancing anxiously at the Rolex his wife had gifted him last Christmas.

“She’ll be here Tony relax, don't scare our daughter away before we even get her back.” Pepper Potts had said whilst she fixed the bowtie on his collar. Whilst pepper had been ever so happy to get her “step” daughter back, Tony had been nervous. He knew he had been her ruin eight years ago and understood the deep hatred his daughter harboured for him because of it. Then the pair had heard the clipping of her gold tom ford heels as grace approached them holding her three year old sister Morgan. Her dress was made of soft silk, the olive green fabric flowed lightly all the way to her feet, the straps on her shoulders glimmered in gold and her jewellery was gold to match, two emerald green earrings that dangled softly. Her hands were scattered in gold rings and her wrists had small gold bangles latched on, a gold choker with emeralds floating along it completed her jewellery. Her signature burgundy lipstick was painted across her fake smile and her hair had been tied up as usual. Tonight it is part of her hair pulled back and into a twist. She looked as elegant as she always had and now that she was older she looked it even more.

“what happened to your dress” was all her dad could say as his three year old daughter ran over to him. His eldest rolled her dark eyes, the same eyes as him, and pulled her phone out of her Vivienne Westwood clutch.

“I wanted to wear this one, its more my style don’t you think?” she asked, pushing a piece of her brown hair off her shoulder as her mother gave her a quick kiss to her cheek.

“you were supposed to wear red, we need to look united and normal so people are less judging.” Tony stark was reaching the end of his short tether and as per usual his daughter was making him question his sanity. He found being an avenger easier than raising a daughter.

“ we look scarily alike dad I think people will know I’m your daughter, besides green is more my colour.”

“funny, there’s a very grouchy god who likes to say the same thing.” But a quick glance at his watch showed him he did not have the time to make digs at his least favourite avenger, “ok we need to go now, Happy is waiting in the car” and with that the wealthy family made their way to the party. The car ride was almost entirely silent with the two most stubborn starks not talking. Pepper had tried making small talk to smother the uncomfortable silence but her futile attempts had ceased after seeing the shared scowl across both of their faces. The event celebrating 85 years of stark industries was being held at the plaza. High ups at the company were invited along with family friends, potential investors and even the avengers team were to be in attendance tonight, now with their newest member. Graces hands began to shake with nerves, everyone would be watching her every move, trying to prod and poke at the mystery that is Grace Stark. With a deep breath she raised her head and straightened her shoulders and pushed open the doors to the golden hall. As she had already guessed, almost everyone turned to look at her but she did her best to ignore them and her rattling nerves as she descended down the luxurious carpet stairs and walked straight to the bar to settle her anxious stomach.

After three hours of endless, meaningless conversation and gin grace was ready to go home. Parties like these always dragged on, there was rarely anyone her age in attendance and the music was always stuffy. Natasha was drawling on about a mission she had just been on but Grace wasn’t listening, her attention was caught on the tall man stood in the corner, his black hair was slicked back and his green eyes focused on the crowd. He wore a slick black suit that almost looked like armour stretched across his godly shoulders. The man was Loki Odinson, her father’s worst enemy and the younger brother of Thor Odinson. He carried himself like a prince, with strong posture that radiated dignity and a calculated look that made him look dangerous, if the rest of him wasn’t already a giveaway. He was easily the tallest person in the room, taller than his muscular hunk of a brother even. It made him stand out like a sore thumb and she imagined he hated it as he looked as if he was hiding in the corner and she certainly could not blame him

A woman on the terrace caught his attention, her soft curls blowing in the soft evening wind and her green ensemble drawing him to her. It was something different about her that kept his curious gaze on her. She looked familiar, like he had seen her before somewhere but Loki couldn’t place it.

“who is the woman talking to Natasha?” the god asked, turning to his brother who smirked irritatingly before answering.

“that is lady grace, she’s the new avenger that’s moved in the room opposite yours, how have you two not crossed paths already brother?” Thor had laughed loudly which made Loki internally cringe.

“she looks eerily familiar is all” his suave voice spoke, hiding the interest he had taken to the beautiful girl with the dark eyes.

“she’s starks daughter” his slight smirk had instantly faded the minute the name of that vile man had left Thor's lips. the norns were playing their cruel tricks on Loki again, the only woman Loki had taken even the slightest of interest to in the two years being on this planet just had to be the offspring of the man he hated most. The vain, greedy and horrid man could not have created such a stunning creature, it just wasn’t possible. She would probably be just as bad as he is, Loki thought with a grimace. Two starks, the norns were being cruel to him indeed.

Grace turned to look at the god lingering in the corner and caught her breath in her throat as she saw that he was already looking at her. She had stared at him until her face started to flush like a schoolgirl with a crush. Loki watched her for the remainder of the night, not thinking much of it until she laughed at a joke Clint Barton made and a nearby candle stick that had been left unlit burst to life with a flickering flame. Loki knew none of his fellow avengers possessed any sort of power that would be capable of doing that, he also knew of how rare that sort of power is. It had last been one and a half thousand years since someone had possessed power like it.

|~|~|

Dracoris was a being on Asgard who controlled and summoned fire, they rode the large, fire breathing scaled beasts known as dragons or drekki and fought in gruesome, violent wars that people don't even dare to talk about it. Their power was almost unstoppable, being passed between people at the decision of a mysterious and unbreakable jade green stone. Odin's daughter and heir, Princess Hela had wanted this power for herself however and so she decided to take it using the only magic in Asgard that was forbidden, blood magic. When her spell had failed and her blind rage had taken over the princess had slaughtered Dracoris in her rage, killing the last dragons on Asgard too. The three unhatched eggs were stolen from their beds of fire in Asgard's north caves where dragons lived and brought back to the palace. Upon Hela’s imprisonment the eggs were placed in the Odin’s vault. But no amount of fire made them hatch and without their queen the unborn dragons lay cold.

Dracoris never retuned not for over a hundred years and people began to worry, none more so that the great king Odin. He was on the very brink of war with the frost giants, and pure dragon fire was the very thing he needed to win the fight with laufey and his giants.

On the stormiest night Asgard had ever seen a huntched old man covered In a tattered black cape had demanded an audience with the king and queen. the man revealed a prophecy on the return of Dracoris.

it will be many years, more than a thousand but the dragon will return. The dragons will soar the skies and the realm will see peace like any other. she will not be born to Asgard but shall be brought by love and fire. Dracoris will marry the eldest child of the rightful heir to the throne and their child shall have the blood of old elementia.

Odin had been overjoyed, almost bouncing with giddy. He smiled over at his expecting wife, content in the fact that his child would bring about the return of the dragon. haggard old man said one more thing before he left: they shall call her the dragon princess then later the dragon queen. the first that has ever been.

#loki fanfic #loki odinson #loki x oc #loki x original female character #stark oc #genderfluid loki #fem loki #fem loki x oc #daredevil characters #loki x stark ofc #gracielle stark #grace stark #smut #fluff #angst #enemies to lovers #slow burn

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rawrmeansilyindinosawr · 2 years ago

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ketamine is NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART (ty rat priest)

ladyfag is a kute venue w lots of kute boyz and u n ur friend dance on stage cuz why not. the dj puts the lights on u and ur friendz n sweat drip drops from ur head down to ur body and it feels holy. dirty magazine party is nxt and there's a human carpet who is coercing people into his kink to step on him like a carpet n gets mad when u ask him if he's ok so u get on him with ur 5 inch platforms and jump ttwice. cobra snake is snapping pix of everyone and the girl who u met a vivienne westwood last week tells u she likes ur kitty kat ears and u blush. u meet a girl that looks like the reincarnation of SOPHIE and spiel ur lil spiel ab how she changed ur entire life n stance on music/started ur party life. she asks to kiss u after and u let her. <3

ugh sigh eek ugh sigh eek meh blah ugh ooof. mi head is spinning and the come down from molly is never fun. found myself being v suicidal. wrote this cuz i wuz eating chicken wings and sad.

"im sucking the meat out of my teeth from the gaps in between. i used to pull my teeth when they started becoming loose and make sure they fell out the same day, i did it cuz i wanted the tooth fairy to make my wishes come true, to be in a loving family, to be happy. there's a gap from this tooth i pulled when i was 12 or so, it healed unevenly , so every time i eat meat it gets stuck in between ."

i've been talking so much lately i've lost my voice.

u leave dick appointment hungry af from burning all the calories dancing and almost k holing but u mentally pushed urself out of it, didnt think that was possible but ketamine is not for the faint of heart or mentally weak. kiss ur friend goodbye n r craving ur fav hangover food. u walk to the bodega and ignore the weird unwarranted comments from touristy men with boring flannels and cargo pants who just seem so fascinated every time they see someone who looks like a lil lolita goth. IDK why these tourists r hangin in bushwick, plz go to midtown or the upper east side so u can compare credit scores. u walk back to ur apt and BOOM. right underneath ur 400 dollar new new rocks u feel a MF LIFT and on top of that u hear a DEATHLY SQUEAL. yep. the sound of black metal REEEEEE's on loop. [also, EW if u ONLY ever cry while listening to dying fetus , get help. ] u just accidentally stepped on a fucking rat. but they just ran away underneath a car. yr convinced the rats here r superhuman or something like they have GOT to go to mandatory rat church or something underground with their sundays best and all give their tithes n offerings to RAT PRIEST to get this anti kryptonite. alana from broad city talked about RAT BASTARD [which is personally one of my greatest fears, never forget how i fking lost sleep for 2 whole days when i found a tiny mouse in my apartment a month ago, one time seeing it run across my clothing rack in the middle of the night, me responding by SCREAMING and running down my second story floor barefoot and out tha door] but id like to get to know RAT PRIEST. what does he wear, what do his sermons consist of, why do i even think hes a he. ive come so far as a nonbinary person and even helping build an anti-christian club at my christian college,writing a MF poetry book ab my deconstruction of God our Father into God our Mother. i hate the patriarchy and how its framed my sense of power insuch a male perceived worldview. speaking of men.

i am DONEEEE dating musicians and BOYS FROM UPSTATE!!!!!! ive been gaslit by 3 of them this year and its barely june?!?! why pollute something so beautiful n pure like music with a fragile ego!? ive never understood how that could happen…but imNOT stupid. tha softest boys are tha softest manipulators. DUH. i get having energy restless AF to create, express N give but how can U allow the round of applause n medal to corrode tht inner beauty?? or hold urself in so much pride they r stuck in karmic loops. but im no better cuz i never seem to learn either believing they actually think im special too. ive given sm love n attention away from myself lately n these ways of communicating w these kinds of ppl dont feel genuine when u are left empty handed. but NY was never a great place for ppl to date anyway. u find like minded ppl who connect to and they have reservations n avoidances. but falling in luv n getting hurt always happens without a warning.

PLZ PLZ PLZ RAT PRIEST dont let me fall for another musician!! ill bring u 12 bacon egg n cheeze's on cinnamon raisin TOASTED lightly with a side of coffee LITE N SWEET. PLZ RAT PRIEST i know ur there, omnipotent being. that sees the smol ones underneath ur the fluffy clouds u lay on in haven, i kno ur listening. PLZ RAT PRIEST, luv is worth going into a furnace of 1,000 flames for!! i just want pure luv. and if it's in u, u'll b the only boy ill ever be on mi knees 4 EVER again. [kross mi heart hope 2 die.]

#blog

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pacifyara · 1 year ago

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Slightly Unhinged Style Inspo + How I’ll Be Incorporating Them

Lately I’ve been really inspired to explore my personal style and in a way add “lore” to it. I want my personal style to extend beyond my aesthetic preferences, I want it to embody my lifestyle, my ideologies, my music, my art, my personal journey. I have been thinking about how much space I want to take up with my clothes, the sound of my boots clacking on the floor, the films I watch over and over again. That is not to say I’ve discarded purely aesthetic preferences but that I am taking a step back from the trend cycle. (Part One)

Warning: You may disagree with these

American Psycho and the “Sigma” male

Okay, stay with me. American Psycho has long been one of my favorite films. Lately it has experienced a resurgence of popularity--for all the wrong reasons. Patrick Bateman is not a figure to look up to, he is fundamentally a loser. Something that is reiterated through the film. I think it’s ironic that Patrick Bateman has become a hero amongst the alpha/sigma red-pilled “literally me” crowd when the book (a good but disturbing read especially as a Black woman, but I like clothing descriptions so sue me) is authored by a gay man and the film is directed by a woman. Bateman is a personification of 80s “yuppie” culture; the ultra-consumerism, the superficiality, the lack of empathy in a time where America’s wealthiest flourished while disadvantaged communities faced over-policing, lack of state resources, and the ever-widening income gap. Why do I want to steal his style? For me it’s a subversion but mainly its just fun. I believe fundamentally me dressing like this contradicts the established social hierarchy but I do acknowledge that its is NOT revolutionary and I exhibit a lot of privilege myself.

I’m wearing:

Oversized Ralph Lauren oxford shirts (all white + the striped white and blue print). Silk ties (that I incorrectly tie), Celine Tortoise-shell glasses, Fleece vests (in honor of modern day finance bros), khaki skirt, leather loafers.

Cruel Intentions and The Mystique of Kathryn Merteuil

Cruel Intentions is my favorite 90s cult classic. It was part of that wave of films that adapted old, mainly Shakespearean, works into modern teen dramas (ex: She’s The Man, She’s All That, Clueless, i.e.). Evil takes the form of a teenage girl in the film’s main protagonist Kathryn Merteuil. Kathryn is vindicative, manipulative, smart, two-faced, and above all cruel. On the outside she maintains a good girl façade which Kathryn fought to maintain because she knew it will never be socially acceptable for a girl, of her standing, to actively be promiscuous, over-confident, and morally dubious (something she says herself in her iconic “God forbid I enjoy sex and exude confidence” monologue). While her step-brother Sebastian gallivants around doing all of this and more. One of my biggest qualms of this film is how Kathryn Merteuil is thoroughly villainized to the end while Sebastian is martyred and given a redemption arc. I understand where she’s coming from and I’m deeply empathetic towards her plight. For me adopting Kathryn’s look reminds me to stand firm in my self even if its negatively received societally.

I’m wearing:

Vivienne Westwood heart necklace, Chrome Hearts inspired Cross, Black leather trench (on the look out), Stiletto black heels, Those ivory and black Chanel flats, Custom-made satin top (Rosie Huntington Inspired), All black outfits, Dark red accessories + nails

#style inspiration #cruel intentions #kathryn merteuil #patrick bateman #american psycho #Personal style #style rant #just a rant in general

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fiveraccoonsinatrenchcoat · 2 years ago

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Romeo And Juliet (Or Some Other Romantic Shit Like That) Ch. 6

Eddie Munson x f!reader

Series Description: The Saturday night slot at The Hideout is open, and Corroded Coffin thought they were a shoo-in. When it goes to a different band, however, Eddie becomes more than a little distracted by their pretty bassist.

Previous Chapter - Next Chapter

Chapter Description: You and Eddie are head over heels for one another. Tonya doesn't appreciate it all that much.

Warnings: angst, language, alcohol mention, smoking

Word Count: 3388

Notes: Sorry about the delay on this, I had a very unexpected family emergency and some killer writer's block to boot, but I'm back! This chapter is a bit of a doozie but I'm very excited for you guys to read it! (also if you want to look up the shirt the reader wears in this chapter it's a real vivienne westwood design but be warned it's very nsfw)

It had been the end of August when Eddie saw you on stage for the first time, and he’d followed your performances like a lost puppy throughout all of September. He kissed you like you were the only person in the world just before the start of October, and the pair of you made up for lost time until Halloween had come and passed. Now, as the cold, late November air whipped around the pair of you, it seemed as though it was all about to come crashing down.

You and Eddie decided it would be best if your relationship was kept a secret for the time being. His bandmates were not the biggest Seductress fans in the world (to say the very least), and you were sure that Tonya would blow a gasket if she found out that you were fraternizing with the enemy. Neither of you minded, though. If anything, you both kind of thought it added to the fun. Sneaking him out of your apartment in the wee hours of the morning and sharing secret cigarettes in the back of his van made you feel a little bit like you were in a John Hughs movie, and slinking away from your respective bandmates to see one another in the alleyway behind The Hideout became a bit of a post show tradition for the two of you. Yeah, it was freezing, and it always smelled a little bit like a sewage pipe, but neither of you ever cared; it was hidden away from prying eyes, and shoving Eddie against the brick wall of the building was a great way to dispel some of that leftover on-stage adrenaline.

You’d successfully snuck away from the girls and found Eddie in his usual spot, leaning a few yards away from the door with a cigarette glowing between his fingertips. His eyes lit up the moment they met yours, and you threw yourself into his open arms.

“You did great!” he said, before planting a kiss to the top of your head.

“You think so?” you asked with a smile. “I had a string snap, so I changed ‘em, like, a week ago, but I swear I kept hearing them go out of tune.”

“All in your head,” Eddie reassured you. He took a quick drag from the cigarette, which you promptly swiped from him to do the same before stubbing it out and dropping the butt to the ground. “You were perfect.”

Your lips met in an eager, teeth clashing, adrenaline fueled kiss. Your hands tangled themselves into Eddie’s hair while his sat one just underneath the hem of your shirt, the other placed on the side of your neck.

“I really think you should wear this outfit more often,” Eddie said against your lips. You’d cut several small holes in your t-shirt, a knockoff of Vivienne Westwood's 'Cowboy' shirts, and trimmed the neckline so it hit low on your chest. You paired it with the skirt from an old Catholic school uniform you’d gotten at Goodwill and messily chopped pretty much in half. Eddie had voiced his love for it several times, though he always insisted that it had absolutely nothing to do with the fact that it left quite a bit of skin on display.

“Can’t imagine why you’d like it so much,” you quipped back. You felt Eddie smile into the kiss.

You were both far too distracted by each other to hear the door swing open a few feet away. You were entirely invested in the sound of Eddie’s gasps against you, and completely missed your name being called. It wasn’t until Eddie turned the two of you that your eyes caught the shape of someone emerging from the building. The streetlamps behind them made it practically impossible to tell who it was, but you shoved yourself away from Eddie as soon as you heard the telltale “What the fuck?!”

It was Tonya who had walked out into your secluded little alleyway. Tonya was the one who just caught you and Eddie practically eating eachother. Over-protective, easily-jealous Tonya was the one who found out about you and Eddie first.

“What the fuck is this?!” she shouted once she had fully emerged from the building.

“Tonya, it’s not what you think, I-”

“What could you possibly mean by ‘not what I think?’ How could this be anything other than what it looks like?” Tonya had a fire in her eyes like you’d never seen.

“Okay, so what if it is?” you barked back, pulling yourself from Eddie’s arms. “What would be so wrong with that?”

“With you fucking him on the side like we’d never find out?!” Tonya shot back. “No, no, that’s totally fine! Nothing snake like about that at all!”

“Woah, what do you mean by ‘on the side,’ Tonya?” you asked as you took another step away from Eddie towards her.

“You know exactly what I mean!”

“No! I don’t!” you yelled. Eddie had never seen you this worked up. “God, why are you so heartset on ripping apart every single relationship I get into? Are you just that fucking jealous?”

“I am not jealous!” Tonya roared in response. Eddie had no idea what to do beyond just watching the two of you yell back and forth. “I’m worried about you!”

“Jesus, are you fucking kidding me?” You looked about ready to rip Tonya’s head off as you said it, arms gesturing wildly around you. “Worried about what, huh? That I’d get my heart broken? That I’d get cheated on? Because you’re a little late to the party on that one, Tonya!”

Jessa and Harriette, whose ears were highly attuned to picking up Tonya’s yelling, came barreling through the open doorway, concern etched on their faces; clearly the addition of your voice was something they weren’t used to.

“That’s real fucking mature of you!” Tonya spat. “Look, if you wanna go join him and his idiot metalhead friends, that’s fine by me, but you need to pick.”

“Pick?” you snapped, your brows knitted together.

“You don’t get to be in both bands, babe. This shit is exclusive.” Jessa and Harriette shared a look behind Tonya, and when Jessa caught sight of Eddie behind you, it all seemed to click into place. She walked up to Tonya and placed a hand on her arm to try and pull her away, but Tonya just shook her off and shot a cutting glare over her shoulder. Jessa backed off, not wanting to make the situation any more volatile, and Tonya turned her attention to you once more. “You can pick them, or you can pick us, but you can’t pick both!”

“Seriously?” you let out with a laugh of disbelief, and Eddie felt very out of the loop. This was clearly about more than just him. “If anyone here has a problem with exclusivity-”

“Oh, for fuck’s sake!”

“-it’s not me!”

“I never cheated on you!” Tonya roared, as if it was the obvious answer to a dumb question. “We never agreed to be exclusive! That’s not what that was, and you know it!”

You let out an appalled scoff, crossing your arms in front of you, and Eddie’s eyes went wide. He was getting ready to stop the two women in front of him from killing each other, but fuck, that was one hell of a bombshell that just dropped.

He, Harriette and Jessa were still just standing on the sidelines. Eddie had absolutely no idea how to handle the situation at hand; the most upset he’d ever seen you was mildly annoyed with him and his antics. This was an entirely new ball game for him, and he understood very quickly why you’d been so insistent on keeping your relationship in the dark.

There were angry tears beginning to pool around your eyes, but you were determined to keep them from dropping. You were not going to cry, not in front of her. Not now.

“Y’know what? Fuck this!” Tonya turned her back to you and marched into the building. Jessa and Harriette immediately turned to follow her, as did you. Your bandmates were calling her name, trying to get her to ‘just slow down a minute, will you?’ as she rummaged through her backpack to find her car keys before slinging the bag over her shoulder. “I’m taking the van, you guys can find your own rides home!”

Tonya powered her way through the group to get out of the cramped backstage hallway, slamming Eddie in the shoulder as she went, and the four of you stood silently in the tension she had left in her wake.

“You okay?” Jessa asked you as you leaned against the wall. The tears you were so determined to hide were now on full display, and you kept your gaze pointed away from your friend as you quickly ducked into the greenroom and shut the door before Eddie could follow you. He heard the lock click, and rested his forehead against the shut door.

“Fuck,” he sighed. The door to the alley had remained open, and freezing air was pouring into the already cold hallway. He lifted his head from the door and turned down the hall, hoping to catch Tonya before she was able to run away. As he walked, Jessa put a hand on his chest to try and stop him.

“Don’t try to talk to Tonya, it’s not worth it,” Jessa said to him. “She’s not thinking straight.”

Eddie ignored her advice and ran out into the parking lot anyway. It felt like the temperature had dropped by half since he had been outside waiting for you. He scanned the parking lot and found Tonya leaning against her own van with a cigarette in her teeth. Though he felt guilty about thinking it, the fact that Tonya had a nicer van than him kind of felt like salt in the wound. Now that she was alone, she seemed much less stone cold and looked like she regretted the things she had said, but as soon as she saw Eddie, the angry, tougher-than-thou facade came right back.

“Oh, if it isn’t Sid!” she quipped, malice dripping from her words. She flicked her cigarette and took another drag. “Hey, don’t you and Nancy back there have some conniving bullshit to pull together?”

“You made her cry, you know,” Eddie said, not giving in to Tonya’s biting insults.

“That’s her own fault, then. I didn’t say a single thing that wasn’t true.” Tonya tossed her cigarette onto the gravel that made up the parking lot and put it out under the toe of her boot. “Maybe she just needs to toughen up?”

“Seriously?” Eddie questioned, his own anger now threatening to come to a boiling point. “I thought you were-”

“You’re not anything special. You know that, right?” Tonya interrupted him. “She powers her way through pretty-boys like you. She talks about me being some sort of slut, or something, but I can’t count the number of girlfriends and boytoys she’d had in the last two years alone.”

Eddie stood in silence as Tonya walked to the driver’s side of the van and got in. She started the engine and backed out, pulling up next to Eddie before leaving. She rolled down the window to leave one last burning remark in her wake.

“When you go back in there, go ahead and let Jessa and Harriette know I want her out of the band!” Tonya sped off at that, and Eddie was left with what felt like a black hole in his chest. He tilted his head up toward the sky; it was unseasonably clear, and every star was bright and visible despite the lamps lighting up the lot.

“Fuck!” Eddie exclaimed, kicking the tire of the car next to him. Everything had been great, so great, and he just had to go and fuck this up! You just got kicked out of your band, the band that you and Jessa had founded as kids, and it was all his fault.

With the exception of a handful of dedicated regulars, most of the patrons of The Hideout had gone home for the night. Rhonda had already given the last call, and the front doors would be locked in half an hour. Eddie walked back inside and Rhonda immediately began to question him.

“What the hell was that about? I heard yelling and saw knockoff Debbie Harry practically sprint outta here.” Eddie felt like he was about to burst into tears himself, and when Rhonda finally got a good look at his face, she quickly came out from behind the bar. “Eddie, what happened back there?”

“I think I might have just ruined everything,” Eddie said to her, barely above a whisper. Rhonda was quick to pull the poor boy into a hug, which he gratefully accepted. Eddie had a good five or six inches on the woman, but in this moment, he felt incredibly small.

“You think you can fix it?” Rhonda asked as she patted Eddie’s shoulder.

“I don’t know.”

“Well,” Rhonda said. She pulled out of the hug and looked up at Eddie’s sullen face. “I think you should at least go try.”

Eddie nodded and thanked her; he didn’t know where he would be without Rhonda there to help him. He paused for a moment, took a deep breath, and made his way back to the greenroom you’d locked yourself up in. Jessa was leaning against the wall and Harriette was talking to someone in a hushed tone on the payphone a few yards away. He was about to try the door again, but-

“It’s still locked,” Jessa warned him. “Give her a minute or two. She probably just wants to get it together a little bit before trying to talk to anyone.”

Eddie just nodded. Clearly, Jessa had handled this type of thing with you before. He backed away from the door and joined Jessa against the wall. It was an awful, sickly olive green color, and he was sure the paint was just chock-full of lead and slowly poisoning them all.

“What happened?” Eddie finally asked the girl next to him. “Between her and Tonya, I mean.”

“They dated a while back,” Jessa said, in a calm and collected tone. “Well, I mean, they were a thing. I wouldn’t actually call it ‘dating,’ really.”

“What would you call it, then?” Eddie inquired. Jessa sighed before responding.

“I don’t know. Tonya didn’t want it to be a serious thing, I think. She never thought they were, like, an exclusive ‘item’ or whatever,” Jessa had a tinge of frustration in her voice now. “Of course, she never made that known, so when she got caught with someone else. . .”

“So, she did cheat on her?” Eddie was able to fill in the blanks, and anger rose in his chest once more. Jessa nodded.

“She always tries to deflect the blame away. I mean, the band almost split up after it happened. Harriette and I were so beyond pissed at her.” Jessa had dropped her collected facade now, and was clearly just as mad about it as Eddie was. She gestured toward the greenroom door you were hiding behind. “Poor thing barely left her room for weeks.”

The black hole in Eddie’s chest grew even larger when he heard that, and he muttered another dejected ‘fuck’.

“What?” Jessa asked. She could tell that Eddie was keeping something from her, something big. Eddie locked his eyes on Jessa’s face, and wanted nothing more than to melt into the wall. He wanted to wake up from this horrible nightmare he’d gotten you into. He didn’t want to say it out loud, he couldn’t, because that would make it real, but Jessa persisted. “Did Tonya say something to you outside?”

“She said she wants her out of the band.”

“What?!” Jessa responded, with a rage that could rival what he’d seen out of Tonya just a few minutes before. “Are you fucking kidding me? She said that?”

Eddie just nodded in response and shifted his eyes to the door in front of him. It’s all he could do.

“I’m gonna kill her.” Jessa pushed herself away from the wall and began pacing up and down the short hallway. Any semblance of ‘chill’ that she may have had at any point was gone. “I’m gonna fucking kill her!”

Harriette, who had just hung up the phone, quickly came to Jessa’s side to try and do what little damage control could be done.

“Hey, whoa, calm down,” she said, steadying Jessa. “Nobody is killing anyone, okay?”

“Did you hear what he said?!”

“Yeah, I did, and we can deal with it in the morning,” Harriette uttered. She seemed to be the last rational one left. “Marcus said he’d come pick us up. He’ll be here in five minutes, ten tops. And you know just as well as I do that trying to talk to Tonya right now is gonna do more harm than good.”

Jessa, though she was still visibly furious, gave Harriette a nod and stopped pacing. There was one final moment of silence, one last chance to think through what to do next, before the trio in the hall heard the lock click and watched as you slowly opened the door, having heard every word.

You were trying so, so hard to keep it together. Your eyes were puffy and red. You had wiped off all of your stage makeup in an attempt to hide your tears, though it still left gray shadows beneath your eyes. Your lipstick had stained your mouth, so your lips looked almost bloody. Eddie thought you looked like some sort of phantom, cursed for eternity to haunt the back rooms of The Hideout in misery. You looked at Eddie, and he felt his heart shatter at your broken expression.

“She told you she wanted me kicked out?” you whimpered, voice hoarse from crying. Harriette turned her attention away from the livid Jessa and back to you.

“Hey, we’ll figure it out, okay? I promise, we’d never kick you out. Never,” your drummer reassured you. Eddie admired how good Harriette was at staying calm during all this; he definitely wasn’t able to do that. “Marcus’ll be here soon to get us. We’ll get you home, and-”

“No,” you interrupted her. You shook your head and gave her a gaze that made you look like a lost puppy in the rain. “I-I don’t want to be at home right now. Bad idea.”

“Are you sure? I promise, it’ll be okay, we can-”

“I said no,” you insisted with glassy eyes. Your stubborn nature was a force to be reckoned with sometimes.

“It’s okay,” Eddie said. “I can get her back.”

“You sure?” Harriette eyed him suspiciously.

“Yeah, I’m sure.” Eddie stood his ground, trying somehow to prove to Harriette that he didn’t have any ulterior motive. “I’ll make sure she gets home safe. I promise.”

Harriette gave him a tentative nod, and another person, who Eddie soon learned was the ‘Marcus’ Jessa and Harriette were waiting on, came around the corner. Harriette ran up to him and threw her arms around his neck. Eddie could hear them whispering to one another, but the only thing he was able to make out was ‘I’ll tell you in the car.’

The two girls quickly and quietly gathered their bags and instruments and, checking with you once more that it was okay to leave you alone with Eddie, went to leave. Harriette gave one last nod to him before turning the corner.

Eddie walked into the greenroom and carefully pushed the door shut behind him. You had sat yourself on the couch with your knees pulled close to your chest, curling up into the smallest ball you possibly could. You were still wearing your stage outfit, and the skimpy clothes left you freezing; Eddie could see you shivering and silently cursed himself for praising that thin top and tiny skirt. He planted himself next to you and pulled you into him.

“I’m sorry,” he whispered into your hair. “I’m so fucking sorry.”

He held you to his chest as if someone was about to barge in and take you away from him, and all you could do was cry.

Tiny Little Taglist: @wickedslashdivine @youareadistraction @bubbles-is-my-thing @music-is-my-only-reality @heavenkiss @aedicn @grungegrrrl

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tessatechaitea · 5 years ago

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Review of The Twilight Zone, Season 1, Episode 14: "Jody Leaves Her Date to Die"

Amanda Halley of The Ultimate Fashion History YouTube channel helped me better understand fashion with her constant reminder, "Fashion is not an island; it's a response." I'm one of those men who has lived 48 years in t-shirts and jeans (disregarding the few years in late elementary where I wore corduroy pants for some reason. I think that reason was that my mother didn't understand exactly how serious my inability to change my clothing style was and, in a major struggle to get me to not wear jeans to some family function, didn't realize she was constraining me to years of swishing corduroy pants once I accepted the change (I do remember how I got back into jeans though! While playing at my cousins, my corduroy pants zipper ripped (or the button popped?) and they just wouldn't stay up. So my aunt had some old jeans from Peter Martin (the neighbor boy from across the street) and said I could wear those. Of course, I adamantly refused to wear another boy's pants and decided to struggle through holding up my pants for the rest of my life. A little while later, my mother (she was there because it was probably Thanksgiving) came out with some jeans and said they were a pair I had left there previously. So I acquiesced and put them on, only realizing as I was putting them on in the bathroom that they were fucking Peter Martin's jeans and I had been had. But in a burst of maturity and insight into saving face that I can't believe came out of a youthful me, I made the cognitive decision to go along with the sham. And after that, I never wore corduroy pants again and it was jeans all the way down once more (sure, sure. As I got older, I wore a variety of different kinds of pants. But probably 95% jeans)). That was a pretty good digression so let me remind you where we were: I've basically only worn t-shirts and jeans my entire life so Amanda Halley's The Ultimate Fashion History YouTube channel has taught me more about history in a year or so than I knew in the previous 47. And her quote, "Fashion is not an island; it's response," struck a chord with me because, as an English major, it's how I learned to better appreciate poetry. Or, at least, how I learned to better appreciate poetry that I did not like. It's one thing to read William Carlos Williams' "The Red Wheelbarrow" and think, "What the fuck? Stupid. Whatever." It's another to learn about the other artists whom Williams discussed poetry and their theories about what modern poetry should be, and how it should differ from the previous generation. Although I don't know much about that because after reading "The Red Wheelbarrow" and thinking, "What the fuck? Stupid. Whatever," I had no interest in learning more about William Carlos Williams. But even poems that people think they love as a stand-alone experience, like Yeats' "The Second Coming," cannot truly be understood without context and reading multiple essays discussing Yeats' secret language and ritualistic metaphors. Poems, like fashion, are not islands. Every single one is a piece of dialogue in a generational conversation. Good luck ever feeling like you really understand anything after accepting that fact. Which brings me to this episode of The Twilight Zone, "Third from the Sun." While not as unfathomable as T.S. Eliot's "The Waste Land" without understanding the references or contemplating where Vivienne Westwood's punk aesthetic came from without knowledge of previous years and decades of fashion, "Third from the Sun" relies on the viewer understanding the context in which this story was told. Based on a Richard Matheson story (because of course it was), "Third from the Sun" is a modernist response to living in the nuclear age. Obviously we still live with the threat of nuclear war because genies and bottles and idiots and whatnot so the story doesn't need as much context as maybe some of the other The Twilight Zone episodes that haven't aged as well. But the way it's told exemplifies the needed subversive nature of Rod Serling's television program for 1959. It comes with a sort of safety valve that allows a viewer to remain blind to the criticism of the United States. I'm sure what Matheson and Serling do in this story has been done before and since but it struck me as quite clever, and made me realize that possibly the only other example of this cleverness that I can currently recall with my muddled and aged brain is the ending scene of Get Out when the police car pulls up as Chris kneels over the woman who betrayed him and she begins calling for help. Although that scene maybe doesn't have quite the same safety valve. In fact, it refuses the safety valve completely. That scene is all, "See how you felt when that police car pulled up, you white? That's it. That's fucking living in the U.S. as a black man." But it's still sort of the same visceral reaction that the creators are expecting the audience to have at the end of the story. I should probably explain what that reaction is in "Third from the Sun." William Sturka helps build hydrogen bombs. One day after work, he learns that the bombs are going to be launched in 48 hours. The world is essentially over. He can no longer justify his career by pointing out he's just a replaceable cog in a gigantic war machine because that cog has helped bring it all crashing down. Luckily for him and his family, he has an escape plan! Unluckily for his daughter Jody's date and everybody else living on the planet, they don't have an escape plan! But that's okay because this is how stories work. The audience is given the main characters and encouraged to simply care about the main characters because caring about people who haven't even been written is a stupid waste of time. Sure, Jody's date exists but you never have to look at his face so who cares if he blows up or is later torn to pieces by the mutant post-apocalyptic zombie monkeys. This is about the Sturka family and how they will survive another day! The Sturka escape plan is to take an experimental space ship to a planet they've discovered in a nearby galaxy. They've learned that the people on that planet are similar to them and even speak a language quite closely related to theirs. This brings up a lot of other questions that can't be answered in a twenty five minute television show so just shut up. Some other drama takes place with a bad guy who wants to stop them but none of that really matters. Okay, fine, it matters but in a way that I don't want to get into. It matters because it demonstrates wrong-headed loyalty to a dangerous government and obsessive patriotism and cigarette smoking men who just want to see the world burn. But the terrible man trying to stop them is really just an obstacle to be traversed so Sturka and his family have something to do for twenty minutes, aside from discussing their plans of stealing a government aircraft while playing Bridge or Pinochle or whatever stupid card game for couples they played in the 50s. The main theme is that Sturka and his family are living in a world teetering on the edge of nuclear Armageddon and they're desperate to escape to safety. At the end of the episode, as they escape in their space ship, William and his friend discuss their destination. William learns the planet they're headed to is the third from its star and that it's called Earth. I think this is where I'd insert a gif of universe brain if I was that kind of Internet writer. I am not. Although since I'm more of a 'zine writer, I should at least be doing my own art for these reviews. Fuck. Now that I've thought of it, I've just made more work for myself for future reviews. Also, I think I'm going to turn these into physical 'zines. So that's the twisty bit going on in this episode! The entire time, the audience is thinking this is a tale of Earth because, well, we're living in the shadow of complete and utter annihilation brought on by the whims of our leaders. So the big surprise is that this was a different planet entirely! But the part that I think is clever and subversive and based in the context and dialogue of the time is that it relies on the audience to understand it and make the mental leap of logic for one final gasp of awareness. They aren't going somewhere safe! They're headed right back into the same on-the-brink-of-disaster world they just left. Which is why it reminds me of the final scene of Get Out which relies on the audience's pre-conceived notions of police and violence against black men. I suppose in 1959, you couldn't watch this episode of The Twilight Zone and not gasp at the realization that this poor family hasn't actually rescued itself. They're still in danger because our world has become that dangerous place. We believed they were fleeing Earth because Earth has gotten as frightening as the world in this episode and Matheson and Serling double down by saying, "Ha ha! Nope. They're going to Earth!" Perhaps there's a bit of hope in the story in that we still have more time than 48 hours. But I don't think that's the point. And much like Get Out, even people who pooh-pooh Black Lives Matter protests, must have had a visceral reaction to the police car pulling up while the protagonist knelt above the bloody body of his fiance and tormentor. It's a scene that forces a person acknowledge, by their own reaction and assumption about what's going to happen, that, even if they will vocally deny that police violence against black men is an epidemic, they understand the truth of it. I can't imagine a person exists who could watch that scene and not immediately understand that Chris's life has gone from one dangerous experience to another serious threat to his life. Just another scene that relies on the context of the time, and dialogue across decades. None of this shit is an island. Like the jeans I've worn my entire life, it's simply responses all the way down. Final Thought: I apologize for taking this review in two directions at once without properly knitting them together (the whole "it's a response thing" and the comparison to Get Out) but one came to mind as I was enmeshed in the other and, in the end, I don't have an editor and I'm not being paid for this. So if it's all poorly knitted together, I can only hope that you view it from the appropriate distance to hide its serious flaws. Thank you!

#The Twilight Zone #Get Out #Richard Matheson #Rod Serling #Third from the Sun

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chalabrun · 7 years ago

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our own dream (noctis/luna)

Noctis and Luna never liked the idea of an arranged marriage. So, shortly after Noctis arrived in Altissia, they decide to have a wedding on their own terms on a midnight rendezvous. With some help from Weskham, of course.

It was just a little past midnight when Noctis’ smart phone buzzed in his back pocket, having purposefully fallen asleep with it in his pocket. Swiftly, sheets were disturbed as Noctis rushed to silence it and gazed at the screen beneath the covers, vigilant so that the others wouldn’t hear him. Or see the glare of the light, seeing as Ignis was the lightest sleeper of the three of them. Sapphire blues dilated when he saw the text of the notification.

[ Weskham ] She’s here and waiting. Come now, Highness.

He would’ve bolted like a child on Yule were it not for the fact that his slumbering companions occupied their shared room at the Leville, knowing he’d have to be quiet. Sharing a bed with Ignis--while Gladio bunked with Prompto--he had to move carefully. So far just as the weight he applied to the mattress recovered there wasn’t even a whine of springs, he froze when Ignis shifted.

“Noct?” Ignis inquired groggily, blinking owlishly at his friend. “Is everything alright?”

Noctis offered him a placating smile, keeping his voice low as not to wake the others. “Yeah, just—I’m gonna go get some air. I won’t be long, promise.” That was a lie. Even though their eloping wouldn’t take them very far, Noctis still didn’t know how long an informal ceremony would take. Weskham had mentioned that Camelia would be their witness, which was reassuring, and was far better than having anyone in the empire pay witness with the muzzle of a gun trained on the heads of the betrothed.

The whole arranged marriage deal had never sat well with him to begin with.

Once his boots were laced and he looked somewhat presentable, Noctis stole from the hotel on to Altissia’s streets. The city interlocked between buildings and Campos and bridges was a silent excursion until Noctis remembered the meeting grounds: not the docks as he’d been left to believe, but Maagho and then the Altissian Parliamentary building that had loomed over them when they’d first come to the floating city.

The city was remarkably well-lit despite the late hours, Noctis vigilant as he was careful not to draw attention to himself.

Fucking Six, that didn’t mean he wasn’t still nervous. Letters. The notebook. They’d been corresponding for years and the woman on the other end was still taking shape. Bahamut knew he was still uncertain about his feelings for her, but when he saw pictures, heard her voice over the radio, it felt like she was there. Her life under Niflheim’s heel meant she wasn’t able to express herself freely in these letters, and neither was he for fear of what it would incur on her.

But, maybe it wouldn’t have to be like that anymore.

It was a complex system, what they’d come up with over the years. They sent letters, careful to avoid incriminating information, whilst the notebooks had almost been like a low-tech version of Twitter. Maybe it struck the others as odd, but he enjoyed it. It was like getting to know someone from all sides. And Luna really was that person for him.

It’s why it took him back when he finally stumbled into the open-air anterior of the restaurant where only a few candles were lit, seeing as the rest of the city was fast asleep. There, by the back of her head was Lunafreya engaged in pleasant conversation with Weskham, even the though the former steward lifted his eyes meaningfully to Noctis, a flush creeping down his neck when Luna finally met eyes with his. It was like sparks flew when they did, Noctis unable to help but stride quickly and engulf the woman in an embrace, the Oracle returning it just as strongly if not more so.

They couldn’t help but smile giddily as they withdrew, Noctis having to keep himself from wanting to kiss her all over rather comically. “It’s really you. And—this. It’s really happening, isn’t it?” he said with a smile while taking them back to the counter before Weskham. The man was busily polishing a tumbler, likely to give the lovers some semblance of privacy.

“The wedding never sat quite right with either of you, did it?” Weskham interjected, deep brown eyes on them both.

Lunafreya smiled sadly at this, taking one of Noctis’ hands in her own. “Chancellor Izunia arranged it, Sir Armaugh. It was not of our own choice, or our parents. As Oracle, as the Chosen—it simply isn’t within our futures. Yet, perhaps...through this, we might make our own.”

“Yeah. We do it our own way, then we’ll rise up to meet our fates for ourselves.” His fingers closed around Luna’s, holding tight. “But, y’know, I think the world can wait for a night.”

Their love had always been complicated, to say the least. Luna felt it, too, when she remembered what a disconnect the announcement of the engagement had extolled. It felt..wrong. That it wasn’t the time when the fate of the world loomed taller than personal feelings. They were there, yes, but a wedding such as this? Neither could afford the distractions. Even Noctis was aware by now of a higher purpose, that a wedding didn’t fit into it. At least, not the pomp and ceremony the empire planned.

“Weskham, mind if we talk alone for a minute?” Noctis asked suddenly, the older man seeming surprised.

“Of course. I have to finalize some things with Camelia, anyhow.”

“Noctis, what’s wrong?” Luna questioned when Noctis relinquished hold of her hand.

The younger man bit his lip, sighing. “Luna, this...whole deal with the prophecy, the Astrals, us—I don’t think you’ve been entirely honest with me. What do you know that you aren’t telling me?”

She was capable of it. She was perfectly capable of lying and twisting Noctis around her little finger. Dearest Noctis… She loved him, truly, but nothing could stand between her and leading Noctis to his fate. Not even this. Lunafreya could manipulate him as she had countless Niflheim men before him, of higher ranks and lower cunning she’d learned to think like.

But, he trusted her not to. Not as the Oracle, but as his friend. She couldn’t bring herself to.

Bringing her hands to clutch at her bosom, Lunafreya sighed heavily. “The prophecy, by what we know, will lead to our deaths. For the greater good.”

“No,” he rebuffed automatically, face becoming intense. “We’re not dying. How do you know it’s the only way?”

“It is the will of the gods. And their will is absolute.”

“Is that what your brother thinks, Luna? Would he just roll over and accept that?” Noctis challenged, the pair of them equally intense.

“No,” Luna conceded quietly, blue eyes lowering but not quite in shame. She grew quiet for a long moment, but Noctis searched here and found a glimmer of hope. “Since I was a girl, this is what I’ve been told. To listen absolutely to the gods. To never question their will.” It was all she knew, truly. That Lunafreya would always live beneath another’s heel. But seeing Noctis, he was unlike the Chosen King ready to throw his life away for the greater good.

No, this was a boy who didn’t want to die.

Noctis’ face softened, suddenly apologetic. “’m sorry, Luna,” he murmured, bringing their brows to rest against one another. “Kings and Oracles are always meant to be by each other’s side, right? Why can’t we find another way together?”

This was so like him. As a boy, Noctis had wanted nothing less than to defy the fate handed to him. When many had said he’d never walk again, that his coma would last much longer, he’d bounced back full of piss and vinegar. Luna’s hands pressed on his chest, just curling over his shoulders. She didn’t know why, but despite living on borrowed time, this felt as though it’d be a happy time for them. “We’ll fight, then. We’ll find another way. I swear it, Noct.”

Noctis couldn’t help but smile radiantly, and she could swear it was brighter than the sun.

With less people, there simply wasn’t as much to prepare for. Luna’s wedding gown was simply the satin gown she had planned to wear for the summoning of Leviathan, forgoing the Vivienne Westwood number simply because it was bought on the empire’s budget, not the Fleuret’s.

Quite honestly, Luna was glad for it. This felt simpler, like it was them and not the mannequins that empire wanted them to be. A spectacle to detract away from reality, if for but a little while. Before the full-body mirror, she felt confident. And a little giddy and even betrayed. That they would defy fate together, even though it would enormously contradict everything she knew. Perhaps it’s why it made her nervous. Would the Lord of the Skies smite her where she stood if he knew?

Snapped from her rapture, a soft rapping on the dressing room door was indication enough that they were ready.

The small, nondenominational chapel it was set within was barely larger than half a classroom, only able to fit a dozen people at most. But, for them, it was perfect. Camelia stood in her trademark turquoise pantsuit and was to serve as the minister of their impromptu wedding.

Noctis, too, was waiting in his designer Armani suit that was likely on a temporary loan. Luna blushed at how handsomely it befit him, a maidenly dusting of pink that caused Noctis to smile boyishly. Weskham stood at the pulpit, both certain they saw a glimpse of Gentiana.

“Neither of you might remember, but I’ve known you for quite some time. Your Highness, I still remember when Regis was over the moon at your birth. In spite of the tragic loss of Her Majesty, the late Queen Aulea, your still possessed her strength. Her eyes, her face, her hopes. And she hoped to see her son grow happily. Which I am certain she is and is proud of the man you are today.” To Lunafreya, he let Camelia speak in his stead.

“Lady Lunafreya, I will confess I don’t bear the closeness Weskham has with his highness. I didn’t even know the late Queen Sylva as well I would’ve liked, however—I’ve heard and seen your strength and I’ve followed it for quite some time. Your actions for the benefit of the people of Eos has not gone unsung, even in Altissia. It is why, in Leviathan’s name, I believe it best to wed you here and now with your betrothed.”

Noctis and Lunafreya clasped hands together, both nervous smiles despite the solemnity of this. Camelia glanced at Noctis expectantly, indication for him to say his vows. The young man cleared his throat, hands understandably clammy that Luna gave no polite indication of noticing. “Luna, we’ve...known each other for over twelve years now. That’s pretty incredible, right? Even after everything we’ve endured, I think its made us stronger, not weaker. And that’s a big point of marriage. Like, you told me about all this in those letters we sent awhile back. About love, how it’s supposed to be,” Noctis rambled, swallowing thickly. “But—I just want us to be us. Only, as husband and wife. In sickness, in health, through prophecies—I want to be with you through it all.”

Luna inhaled excitedly, giddily. “When I was girl, I had an idea as how this was supposed to be. Us, before an enormous alter with crowds abounding. Applauding, with the gods looking on to usher us towards our happy ending.” She sighed, growing more serious. “I see now ours was not happy, and that we must write it for ourselves. That we must take the future into our own hands, for our sake, and that of the world. Will you take me, then, Prince Noctis, as your wife? As someone to fight by your side for the future?”

The grip on each others’ hands became resolute, boiling with conviction and resolve.

“Yes, I do,” Noctis and Luna said emphatically, in unison.

Weskham rounded to Camelia’s side, smiling widely at the pair.

“You may now kiss the bride.”

And he did, twelve years lost almost made up between them in the breadth of a moment.

#lunafreya nox fleuret #noctis lucis caelum #noctluna #lunoct #final fantasy xv #final fantasy 15 #my writing #b/c the phantom wedding left me bitter lmao

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peinde · 7 years ago

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Feferi Peixes-Pyrope (known professionally as Feferi Peixes, born June 26, 1993) is an American model, UN representative and philanthropist. She is known for being the world’s first troll supermodel and the world’s first petite supermodel.

Born: Feferi Peixes June 26, 1993 (age 26) Beverly Hills, California, U.S.A

Residence: Malibu, Los Angeles, California, USA

Occupation: Model, Ambassador of New Alternia to the United Nations, philanthropist, business woman, actress

Years active: 2010 - present

Net worth: $3.6 million USD

Nationality: American

Spouse: Terezi “Zi” Peixes-Pyrope (m. 2016)

Website: www.feferipeixes.com

Modelling Information

Height: 154.94 cm (5 ft 1 in)

Hair Colour: Black

Eye colour: Fuchsia

Agency: IMG Models (Los Angeles, Sydney), Elite Model Management (Paris, London, Copenhagen, Milan, Munich, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Amsterdam, Tokyo), YGKPlus (Seoul)

Early Life

According to current birth records, Feferi Peixes was born on June 26, in Beverly Hills, California. This fact is often disputed. Her only parent is her adopted mother, Roxy Lalonde, a geneticist and researcher. She has one birth sister, Meenah Peixes, a restaurant franchisee. Neither have any records of birth parents or lusii. She also has two adopted sisters, Nepeta Leijon and Rose Lalonde-Maryam, and one adopted brother, Dave Strider-Vantas. She is the adopted sister-in-law to fashion designer Kanaya Lalonde-Maryam and film maker Karkat Strider-Vantas.

Peixes is of primarily Alternian heritage, but speaks both Alternian and Beforan dialects, as well as English and some Italian. She is fuchsiablooded and a seadweller.

Records of previous schooling or school-feeding up until age 13 are unknown. Peixes attended Halstrom Academy from age 13 to 16. At age 16, she was persuaded by Kanaya Lalonde-Maryam to pursue a career in modelling. She dropped out of school that year.

Career and Modeling

In 2010, Peixes moved to Los Angeles with a friend for a short while to compete in modelling competitions. She entered an annual modelling competition in Los Angeles, first placing last out of 24 contestants. The following year, she placed 12th. Feeling defeated, Peixes moved back to Beverly Hills, where a talent scout and her future agent recognized her from a state-wide newspaper’s article. She was immediately signed, though, as Peixes later recounts, “I think it was just for the novelty...[he]...saw that I was this troll who had no business being a model...[he] thought I could ride a wave, so to speak.”

In late 2011, Peixes signed with IMG Models, and quickly began being recognized at casting calls. Although initially too short to compete with other models for the same jobs, Peixes created a lot of stir in the modelling world for her tenacity and courage. She landed her first gig in an ad campaign for Prada, where she was the only troll model in the shoot. She was given props to make herself taller.

In 2012, Peixes moved back to Los Angeles, where the novelty of her story took off. She was featured in a spread for Perrier sparkling water, where she posed with an oxygen mask attached to a bottle of Perrier in place of an oxygen tank. It read the words, “So pure, a seadweller could breathe it!” It sparked an online joke, where people would call seadwellers “Perrier-dwellers” and would label Feferi “Perrier Peixes” for the year.

The following year, Peixes posed for an ad campaign for Versace, and sparked the interest of photographer Alice Hawkins, who began posting anonymous posters of Peixes’ face on the walls of abandoned buildings. From then, Peixes gained further notoriety, and gained her first magazine cover, posing on the front of Elle.

In the summer of 2013, Peixes became a GUESS? girl, posing for the year’s seasonal campaign.

She began expanding her portfolio, posing for fashion ad campaigns for Chanel, Tommy Hilfiger, Gucci, Vivienne Westwood, Dolce Gabbana, Dior, Yves Saint-Laurent, Marc Jacobs, Giorgio Armani, Cartier, Bulgari, DKNY, Moschino, Ralph Lauren, Givenchy and Vera Wang. She also featured in beauty ad campaigns for Covergirl and L’Oreal. As of July 2019, she has also appeared in campaigns for Fendi, Comme Des Garcons, Fenty, Versace, Hugo Boss and Betsey Johnson.

Peixes began being featured in numerous magazines such as Glamour, Allure, Vogue US, Vogue Paris, Vogue Italia, Vogue China, British Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Marie Claire and Paper. Every magazine she has featured in became the highest selling of the year. As of June 2019, she has also appeared in InStyle, Grazia, Fucsia, i-D and Seventeen.

In December 2013, Peixes was featured on the cover of Sports Illustrated, alongside Kanaya and sister Porrim Maryam for the magazine’s “Hottest Trolls of the Year” issue, the first of its kind. Later that year, she was ranked as the highest-paid troll model of the year by Forbes, earning $ 120,000. She also started gaining infamy for her hedonistic lifestyle, though that only aided in her gaining popularity with the public.

In 2014, she became L’Oreal’s first troll brand ambassador for “300 Shades of Grey”, a product line specifically marketed towards trolls. From then countless brands have featured her as the face and spokesmodel for their troll beauty lines including South Korea’s Amorepacific, NARS, UAE’s OFFICE Cosmetics, Kat Von D, Urban Decay, Rimmel London, Fenty Beauty and Tarte.

After a falling out that resulted in the abrupt end to her contract with OFFICE Cosmetics, Peixes signed with Elite Model Management and began handling her international work through them. From them, she began receiving much more exposure on an international scale, featuring in large beauty brands around the world.

Later that year, Peixes was also ranked as one of the highest-earning models by Forbes, with a net worth of $ 1.2 million.

In 2015, she walked the runway for Chanel, becoming the first troll model to do so. Her runway portfolio quickly began to grow, and as of August 2019, she has walked for Gucci, Vera Wang, Tommy Hilfiger, Alexander Wang, Michael Kors, Alexander McQueen, Ralph Lauren, DKNY, Moschino, Dolce Gabbana, Versace, Balmain, Giorgio Armani, Anna Sui, Cividini, Vivienne Westwood, Fendi, Oscar de la Renta, Donna Karan, Belleville Sassoon, Hugo Boss, Comme Des Garcons, SAVAGE X FENTY and Betsey Johnson. Her earnings for the year increased, earning her $ 1.8 million.

Feferi met former New Alternian Prime Minister Mikhel Abonoh during a charity event in January 2016. With her rising fame increasing awareness of the small nation, she was offered an administrative position in the Alternian embassy in New York City. “It wasn’t as though I had control over a country I didn’t live in,” Peixes explained in an interview with CNN, “but it was certainly an honour to represent my people in any way.” She quickly rose through the ranks, and was appointed Deputy Foreign Minister for Trollite Affairs in December 2016. In January 2017, she was appointed as permanent representative to the United Nations, following the death of Ambassador Xefirs Cloine.

In March of 2016, she was featured in British Vogue’s “One Year of Models” campaign, and was given the title “Feferi Peixes: The Pisces Girl”. “It’s funny, because I’m technically a Cancer,” said Peixes in the featuring interview, “My sign matches with that of Pisces, but according to my birthday, I should’ve been featured in July!” A copy recently sold on Ebay for $2.5 million USD.

In September of 2016, she was contacted by Victoria’s Secret to shoot as their first troll lingerie model, appearing in their fall catalogue. Although she modelled for the brand, she would not walk the Victoria Secret Fashion Show until 2017.

In November of 2017, Peixes finally walked the Victoria’s Secret runway, though she was not chosen to wear the year’s fantasy bra.

Her net worth has increased to $ 2.4 million, making her one of the highest-earning models in the industry’s history.

In June of 2018, it was announced that Peixes would wear the year’s fantasy bra at the fashion show. She walked November 2018 to widespread approval and high ratings.

It was announced in early 2019 that the Fashion Show would be cancelled. Peixes was interviewed by CBS following the leak, saying “It’s hard, because you get to meet so many great [girls] and see your hard work really pay off.”

In May of 2019, Peixes announced via Instagram that she would be starting a skincare line titled Monochrome Beauty.

Public image and Criticism

Peixes was previously known for her reckless and dangerous party-girl lifestyle, often pictured with known criminals at clubs. She has been linked to the LA drug scene, and has an extensive record with the LAPD. Her ties to drug dealer Vriska Serket are often disputed, but they have often been pictured together. Her most infamous scandal was the crash of her Lamborghini Gallardo in 2013. There were no casualties, but Peixes’ license was revoked and she was indefinitely suspended from retaking until she has proven to be a “safe driver and overall citizen”. She is due in court for evaluation in October 2019.

She began her relationship with her wife in mid-2016. “We were fuck buddies, really, but then she saw I needed help, so we became ‘rails,” Peixes told Marie Claire in April 2017, “it quickly became something else and before either of us knew it, we were married.” Since her marriage, her reputation began to soften, and she was seen at less parties and clubs. She quit drugs and binge-drinking, though she does attend some events and is still photographed on occasion with Vriska Serket.

Peixes has began being known for her odd red carpet photos with her wife, as she herself will look typical, but her wife will show up in pyjamas and sweats. Despite critics and warnings, Peixes has refused to either forgo bringing her wife or have her dress appropriately. It has been claimed by critics that she uses her wife as a way of looking better by comparison, though Peixes has repeatedly and vehemently denied this.

Peixes has been known to say that she is not a role model for children, confirming those words in multiple interviews. She has been seen at childrens’ events, however, as a sponsor for charities. She has been known to do work with World Vision, volunteering for children in developing nations. Despite this, Peixes has maintained that she will never have children.

Her courteous demeanour has been confirmed by staff and photographers alike, and she is known for remembering birthdays. One caterer told UsWeekly, “Yeah, she’s really nice! She’ll bake you a cake for your birthday and offer to cover funeral expenses.” Critics have claimed that this is an effort on Peixes’ part to improve her image, but the details for this reason are unclear.

Philanthropy

Despite her turbulent image, Peixes is involved in numerous animal rights and humanitarian charities. She is the main sponsor of Trolls On Earth, as well as a regular volunteer for World Vision and The United Way. She has worked with ASPCA, but has publicly refused to work with PETA, citing unprofessionalism and corruption within the organization. She is also the spokesmodel for Oceana, and has toured worldwide on their behalf, rescuing and fostering sea animals until they are well enough to be put into sanctuaries.

Peixes has also spoken out about body positivity in the media, working with Dove’s Real Beauty campaign. She maintains that she only sponsors and hosts events, refusing to pose for any of the campaign’s advertisements. “My body’s not on display. I have the typical figure that the beauty industry likes to shell off to people. That’s not what this campaign is about, and I don’t intend on making it so.” She cites her past experience with eating disorders as her inspiration for taking up with the brand.

Personal Life

Peixes maintains a polyamorous orientation and an open marriage with her wife. “She proposed to me with a Ring-Pop, and later that day we went down and signed the papers,” she told Marie Claire in the same article. She has four matesprits, one of which is philanthropist and businessman Eridan Ampora. The others are only known as Gamzius, Verde and Damarabot. She has only been photographed with Eridan Ampora in addition to her wife. She has no moirail, and as she maintains that her wife acts as such, she isn’t open to the possibility of another in the future. She has no kismeses or auspistices.

She owns two dogs; a beagle-chihuahua mix named Toulouse, and a corgi-husky mix named Lafayette. Toulouse was adopted from the now-defunct Hope and Renaissance shelter after it was investigated for corruption and animal cruelty. Peixes ran a campaign with ASPCA to give the dogs living at the shelter better homes, but as she said in an interview with Esquire, “That baby looked up at me...with big beautiful eyes...I knew she had to be mine.” Lafayette was adopted from an animal sanctuary. In July of 2018, Peixes and her wife welcomed a baby sea serpent named Cinnamon Bubblegum Bitch.

In addition to modeling and philanthropy, Peixes is an avid chef and gardener.

#((finally finished Fef's Wikipedia page #((it's a long boy so like you've been warned #((but yeah...here you go #not glubbing 38(#fis)(canons

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thatshighlyoffensive · 7 years ago

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That’s Highly Offensive: 2018 Golden Globes

Y’all know I only wear all black all the time, so I find the fact that Hollywood is "uniting" against whatever tonight by wearing all black to be kind of a stupid way to pussy foot around the issue, but who asked me? This should have been a night when the carpet looked the way I think it should at all times, but honestly, a lot of stuff looked makeshift and cheap to me. And WHAT was with all the skirts-over-pants nonsense?? I thought that was over. Also, forgive the overuse of the funeral garb schtick but what choice did I have?

Wow. It's rare that the first look I see ends up being the worst dressed of the night, but Debra Messing has just taken the cake, eaten it, made another cake, eaten that, made another one, and took that too. I know it's cliché but MESSing says it all. #thefacesofmeth That emerald eyeshadow and those Elvira for Family Dollar false lashes!! And WHAT is that dent in her forehead?? I’ll tell you what it is… bad Botox. Or Juvaderm. Or whatever expired baby bunny cartilage her dermo found in Karen Walker’s dumpster. Oh and also, she’s wearing the dress version of Liza’s putty kkk hood shoes and it’s all HIGHLY offensive.

Kelly Clarkson- "From Justin to King Midas" if King Midas was a lizard...

Kristin Cavallari went as 1999 Oscars Angelina Jolie but with a ballerina's bun and I'm not ok with it.

I honestly have nothing bad to say about Tracee Ellis Ross’s outfit. The phrase ‘Charmin Noir’ comes to mind, but let’s not bc you know how much I love a turban/wrap!

Meryl Streep: You bore me to tears. I like your glasses.

It seems to be literally KILLING Giuliana Rancid that she can’t ask “Who are you wearing?” bc she is incapable of NOT pointing out the fact that she’s not asking that question to every person she's interviewed. And as always, she looks like the Queen from Antz but this year her skin is a particularly orange shade of Oscar Meyer all beef frank. She also has one of the most bulbous horse hair dino ponytails I’ve ever seen. She's like the anorexic version of Starla from Napoleon Dynamite. AND HER TAN LINES! I didn't know you got those from bottled self tanner...

Catherine Zeta Jones: I am still obsessed with CZJ even after recently rewatching Ocean’s Twelve for the first time since Cat and I fell asleep in the theater. Her face, her body, her dress, her earrings, her love for her thousand year old father in law… I am fully behind all of it!

Penelope Cruz: See above. #stunning

I don't know who this woman from Outlander is but I do know she better be on her way to audition at Tweetsie Railroad.

Connie Britton: NO.

Jessica Biel and J. Tim- don’t NO ONE CARE. I don’t know one person who watched ‘The Sinner’ (most people didn’t even know what I was talking about when I asked if they’d heard of it), so the fact that she is nominated is a testament to that Sexy Back money and nothing more. Just her talking about being a producer of the show is like… We get it…you’re the only one who would pay you to be an actress anymore. PS, your arms are fabulous.

Mandy Candy Moore: Olé!

Holy shit Diane Kruger looks amazing.

Unfortunately, Sarah Paulson is one of those I feel looks like she's in something cheap. Really cheap. Like she stole a leotard from the Xanadu Mourning collection and wrapped a table cloth around herself. And I can't say I love the choppiness of her bob.

Michele Williams- I’m still not over how ridiculous you looked on Dawson’s Creek, but your pixie has grown on me over the last few years but OHMYGOD what is that shelf in the back? Lloyd Christmas called…

Seth Myers looks like the singing sword and a foot had a baby and named it Cheremy.

Jamie Chung- First of all, why are you here? Secondly, you look like the winner of a ‘Grunge Bride’ themed stripper contest sponsored by Hefty in 2002. Those shoes….

Alexis Bledel- Let’s get this out of the way: I can’t stand you. You’re a mumbler with creepy Kewpie doll eyes and mouth. But as for what you’re wearing, GASP you’re not wearing solid black so you obviously don’t care about women!! But also, you must not care about yourself either because you look like one of Ariel’s sisters and Dionysus had a baby and it came out haunted.

Why is Dave Franco wearing so much rouge????

Alison Brie- Ok, you can channel Audrey Hepburn, I guess. Although her dress does resemble my senior prom dress from Cache. Oh wait- there’s a pants leg. You’re trash.

William H. Macy: Did Grubby die? That’s the only reason I can think of for Teddy Ruxpin to show up to the Golden Globes in all black…

Gal Gadot is clearly going to an audition for "A Chorus Line" after the Globes. Why else would she steal a maitre'd's jacket and cut it in half?

Saoirse Ronan looks perfect all around. I need all of it immediately, even though I’d look more like Bruce Villanche dressed in drag doing a David Bowie tribute than her svelte awesomeness…

Eva Longoria looks like a pregnant Sharpie.

It took me a solid 3 seconds & a glance at the caption to figure out I was looking at Halle Berry and not some mixed berry bag of Skittles from a prom themed episode of the CW’s Gossip Girl revival. And her bangs look gross and ridiculous. #whywontsheage??

I take it back: Reese Witherspoon looks like the pregnant Sharpie. Or maybe her daughter has decided to become a fashion designer and this was her first foray into an origami—inspired collection? #blacktobasics

Nicole Kidman (or Nicky Kickin it in the Moulin Rouge, as Jack McFarland calls her) looks flawless, as always. The one negative thing I will say is that I find flutter fly cap sleeves to be among the most offensive things in adult female fashion (mainly because the only humans that can pull them off are pre-teens, anorexics and Kate Moss (not that she’d ever wear them).

Viola Davis wins everything. Omg that hair and makeup and jewelry and dress. ⚰️⚰️⚰️

Did Zac-without-a-K Efron want people to mistake him for Milo Ventimiglia? Is that the reason for the mustache? Why is he even there? GASP! Are they already remaking High School Musical (because you know that’s in the works…) with him starring as Troy again?!? #prayerhands

Why exactly is Naomi Campbell at the Golden Globes, must less in a piece from the never-to-be-seen sketches Vivienne Westwood did for Guy Richie’s new pandering remake starring Madonna as Herlock Holmes?

Lily James- You are gorgeous perfection and I mean that because anyone that stars in a live action Disney remake is automatically on my shit list (I’m looking at you, Emmas Stone and Watson…) but what the actual hell are you wearing? You look like a Project Runway contestant’s submission on the theme “Maleficent’s entrance to the party.”

Octavia Spencer looks like the teacher who got to play Glinda’s role in a #metoo fundraising, high school production of Wicked after the lead was stricken with mono.

Greta Gerwig- I’m tempted to allow it, but only if you’re intentionally channeling Marchesa Luisa Casati.

Angelina Jolie- oh. my. god. I know I’m biased (as one of her long lost, adopted children she’s never acknowledged or heard of) but I cannot say one bad thing about this, especially since I’ve been in 100% Bombshell Manual mode lately and anything with feathers or frills or femininity is giving me LIFE. #bestdressed

Elizabeth Moss: from Polly to Pollyana. Anyone that gets that is my lifelong friend and anyone that doesn’t please never talk to me again. But seriously honey, that waistline is not your friend.

Jessica Chastain- I think I love everything about this but am i crazy or does it make her look a little bulky? Tell me I’m crazy. I’m crazy. (Narrator: She was definitely crazy.)

omg Maggie Gyllenhaal is wearing the same Castle Greyskull, droopy-sleeve of wizard-vagine garment as Debra Messing! Is this a thing?? Gross. And those earrings are stupid too but I don’t know why.

Emilia Clarke is perfection (minus the bow but moving on) and I don’t even love GOT.

Geena Davis stole one of CZJ’S costumes from Chicago and i can’t say that I’m angry. I will say that I’m angry that the head designer at LOFT got hold of it and added a few of those filthy lace panels before she walked the red carpet, but since she still looks pretty flawless…I’LL ALLOW IT.

As always, Lena Headey looks like the drunk, badass aunt who was a groupie before falling into acting so I love her even more than when she gets drunk and sets people on fire on tv. The dress does look like something a goth would make to wear to a Renaissance fair, but who cares when she looks that cool in it?

I love Margot Robbie more than almost anyone in Hollywood today (even though she stole my life’s dream of playing Tonya Harding. Seriously, I’d started writing a short right before they announced that movie and I’m not even kidding), but I can’t say i know exactly what she was going for with this look… an Elsa-possessed mistletoe over her womb to subtly announce she’s expecting? A tribute to the portion of Fantasia where fairies ice skate to ‘Waltz of the Flowers’ as a nod to the ice goddess she plays in ‘I, Tonya?’ I’ve been staring at it for a few minutes now and can honestly say I have no clue.

Gwendolyn Christie- I have no idea what you are wearing but I do know that I am obsessed with your GOT character so you have my permission to do whatever you please.

Kerry Washington unfortunately looks like some anorexic basic at her junior prom. And those floral net booties are what a leprechaun wears to a funeral. wtf. Oh but her hair is on point.

Kate Hudson- Je refuse.

Chris Hemsworth can do no wrong even in a suit made from a brocade table cloth and VELVETEEN shoes so don’t even worry about it, honey.

Michelle Pfeiffer- omg i am heartbroken over how matronly you look!! As anyone who knows me knows, my mother could pass as your identical twin, so I take it kind of personally when you show up on the red carpet dressed as Marian the librarian’s widowed sister, Ovarian.

Zoe Kravtiz- Sweetie, it’s already been done and its name was Natalie Portman. A chunky, funky emerald earring does make you look like Audrey Hepburn's edgy cousin though. Whatever- you still look gorgeous and I love you.

Kendall Jenner- There are so many things wrong with your look, much less your existence, but I’ll just sum it up with this: T. STRAPPED. POINTY. TOED. SHOES. Also, lay off the brow botox before you look like Debra Messing, or worse, Kylie Jenner. #gasp

Sarah Jessica Parker literally went as her character from Hocus Pocus attending a funeral.

Isabelle Huppert wins the night! Nope, spoke too soon. Her dress has those damned flutter sleeves on it too! What IS that? It’s trash, is what it is…

Roseanne Barr forgot to put a dress over her Spanx…

Ok, that's all I got. I barely watched any of the actual show bc I can't with most of those self important a-holes, so I can't comment on anything "exciting" or "interesting" that might have happened. Let me know if I missed anything highly offensive🥂

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thereallygoodblogshow · 5 years ago

Text

MA Fashion and Textile Practices Major Project Path - 5th September

Punk and Vivienne Westwood

The punk scene in both the UK and America was of course to continue long after the demise of the Sex Pistols, they were just the catalyst to project the punk sound into the mainstream. In the US bands such as; The Stimulators, Bad Brains - significant for being the first all black punk band, Black Flag - my brothers favourite band, Dead Kennedy’s, Agnostic Front, Minor Threat and more had all drawn inspiration from the like of Iggy Pop and The Stooges, the Ramones and the Sex Pistols and carried punk forward into the future. Bands like Nirvana, Rage Against the Machine and Green Day are bands we know today because they were inspired by those earlier punk pioneers. Billy Joe Armstrong (2010), lead singer of Green Day spoke to Rolling Stone magazine about the Sex Pistols impact on him as a writer:

“The Sex Pistols released just one album … but it punched a huge hole in everything that was bulls*** about rock music, and everything that was going wrong with the world, too, no one else has had that kind of impact with one album. Never Mind the Bollocks is the root of everything that goes on at modern-rock radio. It’s just an amazing thing that no one’s been able to live up to.”

In the UK The Clash and The Damned continued with chart success’s and other bands grew from punks influence such as; Joy Division, Siouxsie and the Banshees - who had been around for some years but were now getting noticed, The Cure, The Fall, Caberet Voltaire and many more. The sound was categorised as alternative and independent music. Johnny Rotten himself was soon to fall foul of Malcolm McLaren who left him stranded in San Francisco without money or a flight home, McLaren was off to forge his own career in pop and to manage other bands such as Adam and the Ants and Bow Wow Wow - both of which were dressed by Vivienne Westwood. Eventually finding his way home to London, Rotten formed his own band called Public Image Ltd, a sarcastic reference to the media machine that McLaren had so desperately pushed the Sex Pistols towards.

youtube

Public Image Ltd [PiL Official, Public Image Ltd]. (2013, Oct 10). Public Image Limited - This Is Not A Love Song (Official Video) [Video file]. Retrieved from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Az_GCJnXAI0

Malcolm was to go on and achieve relative chart success with songs such as ‘Buffalo Gals’, ‘Double Dutch’ and ‘Madame Butterfly’ which is one of my favourite songs. Growing up in the 80′s I had no idea who Malcolm McLaren was but I liked the songs he produced. His sound had taken influences from hip hop culture and electronic sounds and mixed them together, much like his attitude towards collaboration amongst bands in his punk days. I get the impression from my research that he wasn’t well liked on the punk scene, The Damned lead vocalist Dave Vanian (2019) once described him as “a Fagin type character”, and we all know how Johnny Rotten felt about him before and after the end of the Sex Pistols. He doesn’t come across as overly likable, but you cannot deny his ability to see the potential in people and the way he utilised his instinct for business.

youtube

Malcolm McLaren [Sherry Wallace]. (2012, Dec 22). "madam butterfly" malcolm mclaren [Video file]. Retrieved from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3JN8o8-ZK5s

After the breakup of the Sex Pistols in 1978, Vivienne Westwood had already renamed her and McLaren’s shop SEX on The Kings Road to Seditionaires, and had been selling clothing inspired by fetish and bondage clothing into wearable fashion, utilising zips, pins and straps within her designs. This of course was a huge hit with the punk youth and bands McLaren adorned. In 1980 Vivienne was left disenchanted with the collapse of punk in the UK and renamed the shop Worlds End, as that’s how it must have appeared to be. This name was to be the last incarnation of the shop and is still called Worlds End today.

Westwood, V. (1977). Anarchist Punk Gang – The 1% ers shirt from Seditionaries,1977. [Clothing]. Retrieved from https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/185218.

In 1981 Westwood and McLaren showed their work for the first time on the major catwalks, this was The Pirate Collection based on a romanticised vision of the pirate. This look was to be seminal in the New Romantic aesthetic, showcased especially by bands such as Visage and Adam and the Ants. Vivienne pioneered her own cutting techniques based on rectangles and taking inspiration from historical cuts. She would make a toile of the garment in smaller scale on a reduced sized dummy, once the fit was correct it was then scaled it up to actual size. Throughout the 80′s Westwood continued to be inspired by different cultures and times, her collection in SS'82 was Buffalo Girls, in AW that year it was Peruvian women, SS’83 was Blade Runner and so on. It was to be what she called her Pagan years. By 1984 her collaboration with Malcolm McLaren had ceased.

Westwood had been with McLaren since her break up from her first husband Derek in 1965. She already had son Ben, whom she’d had with Derek when they moved into a flat in Clapham. They then went on to have son Joseph together in 1967. Prior to meeting Derek she had been a primary school teacher and had made her own jewellery, which she sold on a stall on Portobello Road. Westwood has said that although he was a driving force behind her, she felt he was controlling. Westwood (2014) said of their meeting;

“Malcolm chased me, I didn’t want him for my boyfriend. He didn’t look after himself. And I started trying to cook for him a bit and stuff like that. And, well, that’s how it started. The point is, I didn’t want Malcolm at first, but I did, in fact, end up getting pregnant by him, even then, I didn’t really want him."

Westwood, V. (1977). The Pirate Collection. [Clothing]. Retrieved from https://blog.viviennewestwood.com/the-story-so-far/.

In the late 80′s Westwood’s style changed again, this time her girls were seen sporting fashion which parodied the upper classes. Westwood’s 1987 Harris Tweed collection was inspired by a young ballet dancer she had spotted on the tube wearing her hair up in a plaited bun, ballet shoes in bag and wearing a Harris Tweed jacket. For this collection she used fine wool tweeds and velvet’s - fabrics that the aristocracy would have used. This air of luxury continued to be a feature throughout most of her collections in the 80′s, her signature corsets becoming pieces to aspire to. Her model muse at the time was Sara Stockbridge who had the perfect look to carry Vivienne’s signature aesthetic. I always remember the cover of I-D magazine Sara was on, she was just so quirky and different compared to other models at the time.

I-D Magazine, n.d. (1987). Sara Stockbridge 50th Anniversary Issue. [Editorial]. Retrieved from https://www.brennan-and-burch.co.uk/blogs/b-and-b-blog/45795267-sara-stockbridge-iconic-muse-of-an-era.

Ryan, D. (1987). Harris Tweed Collection. [Photograph]. Retrieved from http://worldsendshop.co.uk/lips-print/.

The 90′s decade sees her Anglomania years, Westwood’s take on the connection in fashion between the UK and France. She said (1993) of the collection:

“On the English side we have tailoring and an easy charm, on the French side that solidity of design and proportion that comes from never being satisfied because something can always be done to make it better, more refined.”

She took inspiration from Gainsborough’s paintings, country charm and France’s obsession with English tailoring. And in the winter of that year she went all out for tartan - a look we probably most associate with Westwood’s post punk collections. The collection was created in conjunction with her new husband Andreas Kronthaler. They had met previously in 1988 when Westwood was teaching for Fashion Design at the Vienna School of Applied Art. He moved to London to work for her company in 1989, and their first joint collection was the Cut and Slash collection in SS’1991. They married in 1993 and have been married ever since. Whilst he is essentially a silent partner in her business she has since acknowledged him as a major contributor to her Gold Collection for the last 25 years.

Westwood, V. (1993). Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood. [Photograph]. Retrieved from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-1993-ready-to-wear/andreas-kronthaler-for-vivienne-westwood.

From 2000 to present Westwood has concentrated on what she calls her Exploration years. She has been fascinated by the properties of different fabrics and what they can bring to her designs, one has fed the other, she has been treating fabric like a living entity. Since her early days on The Kings Road she has been incredibly successful as a designer. She has 12 Vivienne Westwood stores in the UK and another 63 outlets worldwide, as well as a comprehensive e commerce website.

Of late Vivienne has become concerned about the sustainability of her fashion business and ‘fast fashion’ within the fashion industry as a whole. Her new mantra is ‘quality not quantity’ and has no qualms about using her name as leverage to get ethical fashion into the mainstream. In 2014 she put a halt on expanding her business further - despite her business in China doing so well - to concentrate on seeing how her own business was effecting the environment and to work hard to ensure that her own standards of sustainability were met. Westwood (2014) said of this decision:

“Do I feel guilty about all the consumption that the fashion world promotes? Well, I can answer that by saying that I am now trying to make my own business more efficient and self-sustaining. This also means trying to make everybody who works in it happy, if I can."

That same year she launched her ‘Save The Arctic Campaign’ which featured no less than 60 celebrities sporting a specially designed T-Shirt with all proceeds of the sale going towards the charity and climate activists Greenpeace. The campaign featured celebrities such as George Clooney, Chris Martin, Grayson Perry, Kate Moss to name but a few, who were photographed by award-winning celebrity photographer Andy Gotts. Vivienne, along with some of the celebrities traveled the London underground to promote the campaign, and were pictured on the long escalators - lined with the remaining celebrity photographs - which lead up to the main head quarters of Shell Oil.

Gotts, A. (2014). Paloma Faith Save The Arctic. [Photograph]. Retrieved from https://www.viviennewestwood.com/en/westwood-world/save-the-artic-campaign/.

Zimbio, n.d. (2015). Vivienne Westwood, Sadie Frost, Leebo Freeman and Andy Gotts attend the Save The Arctic Collection launch at Waterloo Station on July 13, 2015 in London, England.. [Photograph]. Retrieved from http://www.zimbio.com/photos/Vivienne+Westwood/Andy+Gotts/Save+Arctic+Collection+Launch+Photocall/57Ugwti3R73.

The T-Shirt design featured a heart shaped globe with a flag marking the Arctic region. Vivienne (2014) felt the help of celebrities was beneficial to the campaign:

“Andy is popular with celebrities because he makes it all a pleasant experience. I also really relied on the help of Jerry Hall and Georgia May to do this. Celebrities are often the key to getting a message across, public opinion is very responsive to celebrity.”

The logo for Save The Arctic was also used to launch her SS’14 Gold Label collection show. The campaign has gone part way in ending Shell Oil’s interest on the area. After three years of constant campaigning by Greenpeace and with the support of over 7 million people, Shell Oil have quit drilling in the Arctic. There is still has a long way to go before the pressure is off this magnificent region, which supports human life and animal life not found anywhere else on Earth.

Westwood wasn’t content to leave campaign there however, and in 2019 at London fashion week John Sauven, executive director of Greenpeace UK, along with Vivienne herself took to the catwalk to conduct a climate protest catwalk spectacular. London fashion week was the ideal platform for Westwood, already a seasoned fashion aficionado and Greenpeace to push the need for large fashion brands to start taking sustainability and climate change into consideration, before it’s too late. John Sauven referenced Greta Thunberg - the school girl who made a stand against climate change by sitting outside the parliament building in Sweden, but then had the incredible support of 1.5 million school children around the world when on the 15th March came out of their schools in support of her. Sauven (2019) said of her actions:

"Greta is that shy girl sitting at the back of the classroom, she’s not a leader, she doesn’t see herself in that way. She sees herself as a very shy, quiet girl who doesn’t usually say very much. And you think, wow, that’s immense power, and it gives you immense hope. You need all these different types of people to create change. The people that shout the loudest, they maybe aren’t the people you’re going to see coming forward in the next generation.”

In the last few years Vivienne Westwood has concentrated more on using her fashion and status for campaigning and activism. She has gone on to look at how businesses can reform their policies, looking at climate ecology, looking at the effect of fracking and supporting to anti-fracking campaigns, and giving support to Cool Earth - a charity which helps indigenous communities to halt deforestation. She has her own Climate Revolution website which she fills with information on her campaigning and current fashion related items. She often designs T-Shirt graphics and donates the designs to be used by charities, her latest T-Shirt is for the charity magazine Big Issue. Here Vivienne (2019) explains her reasoning why her new Tao T-Shirt is priced at £120:

youtube

Vivienne Westwood [Vivienne Westwood]. (2019, Aug 19). IoU - Cotton and the Fashion Industry [Video file]. Retrieved from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=evSoIaootlE

I totally support Vivienne’s attitude on why we should be paying more for our fashion - paying more and buying less. I had to think about the last time I actually bought something new, most of my purchases are from eBay or charity shops, being poor certainly helps you budget for fashion! I also love her mantra of ‘Buy well, choose well and make it last’, which applies to us as the consumer and also to fashion industry brands who need to look at the materials they are using and the way they are manufacturing their products. £120 is a lot for a T-Shirt but I can see the reasoning behind the price tag, you are paying for a more sustainable product which should have the longevity to be worn for many years, and the skilled workers who are paid fair wages to make it. As well as the proceeds going towards the Big Issue - a charity which has helped homeless people in the UK for many years.

The Big Issue, n.d. (2019). Vivienne Westwood's exclusive design just for The Big Issue is available from her store for £120 with all proceeds going to The Big Issue. [Fashion]. Retrieved from https://www.bigissue.com/latest/why-vivienne-westwood-collaborated-with-the-big-issue-on-a-limited-edition-t-shirt/.

The T-Shirt is really nice actually, it’s a call to the younger generation to build their characters, because it’s their characters which shape them as human beings, they are the ones who are going to create the future. I based my practice work on Vivienne’s Climate Revolution T-Shirt because I liked the simple sleeveless shape and raw edges, clearly based around the use of the rectangle that she has used in many of her collections.

Vivienne Westwood has always used the T-Shirt as the affordable and accessible way of buying her fashion, as with many high fashion designers, it is the one product which enables the consumer to purchase a piece of them. It’s the one product which is wearable by so many, it’s a unisex item which appeals to a broad range of people - and the more the merrier if it’s promoting a good cause.

https://www.viviennewestwood.com/en/women/clothing/t-shirts/square-t-shirt-climate-revolution-white-nat-white-CLA305AW550168.html?cgid=women-clothing-tshirts#page=1&start=5

Vivienne Westwood became a Dame in 1992 when she received her OBE from Queen Elizabeth II. Always the one to make a statement, she went commando to the awards ceremony and apparently forgot her lack of underwear when twirling in her skirt for the photographers! Making a statement has been a way of life for Vivienne Westwood, from her early designs in her shop Let It Rock and then SEX to showing her support for numerous campaigns as a charity activist - she is the ultimate fashion queen of punk and long may she reign!

The Big Issue, n.d. (2019). Vivienne Westwood is making a fashion statement with the Big Issue. [Editorial]. Retrieved from http://climaterevolution.co.uk/wp/hero-post/vivienne-westwood-is-making-a-fashion-statement-with-the-big-issue/.

Websites:

Pavarini, M.C. (2014). Vivienne Westwood designs logo for Greenpeace. Retrieved from https://www.sportswear-international.com/news/stories/Vivienne-Westwood-designs-logo-for-Greenpeace-7945.

Thorpe, V. (2014). Vivienne Westwood: climate change, not fashion, is now my priority. Retrieved from https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2014/feb/08/vivienne-westwood-arctic-campaign.

Alexander, E. (2014). Vivienne Westwood 'didn’t want' to have a relationship with Malcolm McLaren: 'I thought that maybe he’d got the wrong idea and it was my fault. Retrieved from https://www.independent.co.uk/news/people/vivienne-westwood-didn-t-want-to-have-a-relationship-with-malcolm-mclaren-i-thought-that-maybe-he-d-9746980.html.

Westwood, V. (n.d). The story so far. Retrieved from https://blog.viviennewestwood.com/the-story-so-far/.

Westwood, V. (n.d). Climate Revolution. Retrieved from http://climaterevolution.co.uk/wp/hero-post/vivienne-westwood-is-making-a-fashion-statement-with-the-big-issue/.

Hall, H. (2014). Vivienne Westwood launches star-studded Save the Arctic Campaign. Retrieved from https://www.stylist.co.uk/life/vivienne-westwood-launches-star-studded-save-the-arctic-campaign-featuring-kate-moss-naomi-campbell-and-david-gandy/60901.

Whitehouse, M. (2019). vivienne westwood and greenpeace talk staying angry and finding hope. Retrieved from https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/ywy4gg/vivienne-westwood-greenpeace-john-sauven-climate-crisis.

Whitmore, G. (2013). Vivienne Westwood: Her life and career so far - in pictures. Retrieved from Whitmore, G. (2013). Vivienne Westwood: Her life and career so far - in pictures. Retrieved from https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/gallery/2013/nov/30/vivienne-westwood-sexpistols.

Petrusich, A. (2016). Where Punk Rock Begins. Retrieved from https://www.newyorker.com/culture/cultural-comment/where-punk-rock-begins.

Chick, S. (2017). MC5 – 10 of the best. Retrieved from https://www.theguardian.com/music/2017/aug/17/mc5-10-of-the-best.

Uhelszki, J. (2018). MC5 on ‘Kick Out The Jams’: “We weren’t on a meth power trip… just a power trip”. Retrieved from https://www.uncut.co.uk/features/the-making-of-mc5-s-kick-out-the-jams-33061.

Gibson, C. (2016). What happened in Chicago in 1968, and why is everyone talking about it now?. Retrieved from https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/arts-and-entertainment/wp/2016/07/18/what-happened-in-chicago-in-1968-and-why-is-everyone-talking-about-it-now/?noredirect=on.

BBC News. (2018). 1968 Democratic National Convention: A 'week of hate'. Retrieved from https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-us-canada-45226132.

Ramone, M. (n.d). Marky Ramone. Retrieved from http://www.markyramone.com/biography/.

Rowley, S. (2017). The Damned: an epic tale of fast living and faster music. Retrieved from https://www.loudersound.com/features/the-damned-an-epic-tale-of-fast-living-and-faster-music.

Phillips, S. (2013). Robert Golden's best photograph: the 1976 Notting Hill carnival riots. Retrieved from https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2013/mar/13/robert-golden-best-photograph.

Song Facts. (n.d). White Riot by The Clash. Retrieved from https://www.songfacts.com/facts/the-clash/white-riot.

Ward, O. (2019). British politics is (Johnny) rotten—no wonder punk music is making a comeback. Retrieved from https://www.prospectmagazine.co.uk/arts-and-books/british-politics-is-johnny-rotten-no-wonder-punk-music-is-making-a-comeback.

Lauderdale, B. (2015). A Brief Political History Of The United Kingdom. Retrieved from https://fivethirtyeight.com/features/a-brief-political-history-of-the-united-kingdom/.

BBC News. (2011). Smashed Hits: Is London Calling the best anthem for a city?. Retrieved from https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-14324385.

Welch, J. (2016). Sex Pistols: Anarchy in the UK and the tour they tried to ban. Retrieved from https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-norfolk-38165091.

Serena, K. (2018). The Short, Tragic Romance Of Sid Vicious And Nancy Spungen. Retrieved from https://allthatsinteresting.com/nancy-spungen.

Alt Press. (2018). WAS THE SEX PISTOLS’ FIRST US TOUR AS DESTRUCTIVE AS REPORTS SAY?. Retrieved from https://www.altpress.com/features/sex_pistols_first_u-s-_tour_destructive_1978/.

Wawzenek, B. (2017). Influence and Infamy: How the Sex Pistols Impacted the Future of Music. Retrieved from https://diffuser.fm/sex-pistols-influence/.

Perry, A. (2018). The end of the Sex Pistols: how punk died 40 years ago today, and John Lydon rose from its ashes. Retrieved from https://www.telegraph.co.uk/music/what-to-listen-to/end-sex-pistols-punk-died-40-years-ago-today-john-lydon-rose/.

Documentaries:

Miller, J.J. , MacDonald, E. , Barbisan, J. , Tabata, S. (Writers) & Miller, J.J. (Director). (2019). Punk: Part 1 [Television series episode]. In D. Murray (Producer), Punk. Canada, North America: Sky Arts.

Miller, J.J. , MacDonald, E. , Barbisan, J. , Tabata, S. (Writers) & Miller, J.J. (Director). (2019). Punk: Part 2 [Television series episode]. In D. Murray (Producer), Punk. Canada, North America: Sky Arts.

Miller, J.J. , MacDonald, E. , Barbisan, J. , Tabata, S. (Writers) & Miller, J.J. (Director). (2019). Punk: Part 3 [Television series episode]. In D. Murray (Producer), Punk. Canada, North America: Sky Arts.

Miller, J.J. , MacDonald, E. , Barbisan, J. , Tabata, S. (Writers) & Miller, J.J. (Director). (2019). Punk: Part 4 [Television series episode]. In D. Murray (Producer), Punk. Canada, North America: Sky Arts.

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glamournews-blog1 · 5 years ago

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Cassandra Ciarallo - Startup Fashion Week

Startup Fashion Week - Cassandra Ciarallo

Chic Made Consciously was started in 2015 with high consideration for people and the planet. As per Cassandra the astounding designer behind Chic Made Consciously, “Fashion is more than just looking chic and stylish, it's about being conscious and ensuring that everyone in the process is treated fairly.” Cassandra is based in Toronto and will be showing her mini collection at Startup Fashion Week Runway Show on Oct 25.

ARE YOU SELF-TAUGHT OR DID YOU STUDY FASHION DESIGN?

I didn’t study fashion design, funny enough I originally wanted to be an accountant years ago! I went to school for business and always dreamt of running something on my own, but I could have never guessed it would have been in fashion. That story happened quite unconventionally after my travels to Asia and exploring a new world of artisanal culture. I learned to design with some of the artists in Bali and since then, have continued to explore design on my own. I would definitely say I was more drawn to working in the world of fashion because of the sustainable elements that our brand carries being handmade, fair trade and repurposed!

DO YOU DESIGN YOUR OWN ACCESSORIES, OR YOU HAVE GO TO LABEL?

When I first started Chic Made Consciously, I initially began without carrying my own designs, but by partnering with artisans at Art Cycle Bali and distributing their gorgeous handcrafted designs to Canada. In 2017, I designed my first collection in collaboration with them, all made from inner tire tubes. The designs were a combination of sacred Balinese art and with urban inspiration and very linear geometric shapes.

Since then I have continued to design each collection from our latest brass pieces made from reclaimed war remnants in Cambodia. I believe in going straight to the source of where our products are made to work in collaboration with the artisans themselves. This is to build more transparency and for people in North America to know the story behind what they wear. Stay tuned for our new collection launching for Startup Fashion Week next month!

WHEN DID YOU FIRST REALIZE YOU WANTED TO PURSUE A CAREER AS A DESIGNER?

It was back in 2017, when I designed my first collection. I was so inspired by Pat, my sacred muse, the artisan in Bali who taught me. And, since then have been drawn to playing with my own creativity and the idea that allowing for your creative mind to be free, you can really bring to life a beautiful masterpiece.

WHAT OTHER SKILLS ARE IMPORTANT?

Sales and passion - you NEED to be able to sell in order to build your brand. Marketing, and content building are key to get your target audience to learn how to wear it, style it and want to invest in your product. Strategy and execution to get things done! I also think what is so so important is the ability to go with the flow. Sometimes you could never predict what problems will arise so you need to be good at shifting your original plan if you need to!

WHAT ARE YOU BIGGEST FEARS WHEN GOING OUT AND STARTING YOUR OWN LINE?

That I just spent all this time investing money and time in my idea and people don’t love it as much as I thought! This has taught me a lot about ASKING MY AUDIENCE for advice on designs before launch about what they like and having focus groups.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE PART ABOUT BEING A DESIGNER?

The freedom of expression that comes with playing with fashion. Fashion is about sharing a side of you, it’s how you feel and it’s innate in all of us. We choose every day to wake up and look a certain way - we are telling a story to the world. I love that story and I love encouraging people to invest in a story that is fashionable, while also sustainable!

WHAT'S YOUR JEWELRY PHILOSOPHY? HOW DO YOU LIKE TO WEAR YOUR FAVORITE PIECES?

My philosophy with jewelry and accessories is to go bold and fun! I really believe you have the potential to create unique looks with simple outfits just by adding a few different accessories that speak to your style. A simple jeans and tee can be altered to make it more elevated and elegant, or super funky and out there just by the few pieces you use to accessorize. I think that’s the beauty of having accessories. It means that less is more with your clothing - you can use minimal and simple pieces and accent it with the fun accessories you love!

My favorite looks are usually an all black look with jean/camo jacket and converse, plus my favourite brass ORLA hoop earrings and wearing a collection of many of our rings, like PROTECTION that really pop and some of the tire accessories for that bold dark look.

COULD YOU GIVE ME A DETAILED BREAKDOWN OF THE STEPS IN PRODUCING A COLLECTION...(FROM CONCEPTION TO THE RUNWAY)?

-Concept Ideas - what do I want this collection to look like, what is the story and how can versatility play in the designs?

-Research online- Get more inspiration for the look/ Do these exist and if so how can I make it different

-Design - drawings and sketches

-Sending design ideas to our artisan group in Cambodia

-Clarification Process - reviewing designs and sketches to perfect the dimensions etc.

-Samples Sent & Approved (sometimes there are multiple sample runs depending on how the first sample turns out)

-Order placed and then I wait anxiously until they ship the order and it always feels like christmas morning when I open the box!

HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR BRAND?

Fashion accessories with purpose. Each piece is fairly traded, made by hand and made with love from unique repurposed materials. This allows you to feel the special energy it’s made with, the incredible story you get to support when you wear consciously made and beautiful fashion.

WHAT ARE YOUR FAVORITE MATERIALS TO USE?

All of our current collections are made from reclaimed materials, which are tire inner tubes from trucks motorbikes and scooters in Bali, as well as brass from war remnants in Cambodia. Our brand values are in alignment with a more of a circular model of fashion so that we can close the loop by transforming

WHERE DO YOU GO FOR INSPIRATION?

I look in fashion magazines, online, instagram, I see what is trending but I also believe that sustainability means that designing with timelessness in mind - that is what is important. Trends are irrelevant because you can wear anything at anytime, whenever you want. I love following other sustainable designers such as Zero Waste Daniel, Stella McCartney and Vivienne Westwood as they are awesome inspiration.

WHAT ARE YOU FASCINATED BY AT THE MOMENT AND HOW DOES IT FEED INTO YOUR WORK?

I am fascinated at the rate at which fashion is changing. There is so much climate activism happening and how that relates to the fashion industry. People are waking up and realizing that cheap fashion comes at the expense of human and planet exploitation and we need to do better. It makes me happy to be part of these conversations and let people know that sustainability is still fashionable!

HOW DO YOU WANT YOUR CLIENT FEEL WHEN WEARING YOUR ACCESSORIES?

I want them to feel empowered knowing they are wearing more than just a fashion accessory - they are wearing a story of change and affecting the livelihood of the human being behind it as well as the planet!

HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONAL STYLE?

I would say my personal style is incredibly eclectic. I want it to suit how I feel every day. Lately, I have been making more of an effort to play around with pieces in my wardrobe that haven’t been worn and experimenting with them in new ways. Also, playing around with fancier pieces on any day - there doesn’t need to be an occasion for it just a feeling it gives you. It makes fashion more fun and free.

IF YOU WERE A SUPERHERO, WHAT KIND OF POWERS WOULD YOU HAVE?

How cool would it be to teleport right across to any country in the world? Then I could visit friends and family I want at any time. AND go see my artisans to design more collections in lighting speed :)

IN YOUR OPINION, WHICH SUPER VILLAINS NEEDS FASHION ADVICE?

If we could just put our TORI cuff on Superwoman she would be set!

WHAT HAS BEEN THE SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT JEWELRY-MAKING SKILL YOU’VE LEARNED AND WHY?

Designing for versatility is KEY. People love multi-use and multi-function to get more out of the piece. So I do my best to design for fashion as well as functionality.

#Fashion Designer #Fashion Show #fashion #Fashion Week #Fashion #Startup #Startup Fashion Week #Startup Fashion #Canada #Canadian Fashion

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kylegoodmanuca-blog · 6 years ago

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How Punk Changed Everything

“Punk is definitely part of my history. I'll never get rid of that,” says Dame Vivienne Westwood, before adding: “Everything has changed today, it's hard to think now that punk was shocking. Now anything goes.”

But in 1976 punk – the music, the clothes and the defiant pose – did rock the status quo and provoked “Filth and the Fury” headlines when Johnny Rotten, Siouxsie Sioux and assorted “punk rockers” appeared on the nation's TV screens. Back then it would have been hard to imagine that nearly four decades later the same group of bored teenagers in their matted mohair sweaters, graffitied shirts, spikey hairdos and safety pins would not only be influencing the designs of international high fashion houses from Versace to Jason Wu, but would also be feted to a highbrow analysis of their anti-fashion aesthetic at one of the world's most revered institutions, The Costume Institute at New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Punk – Chaos to Couture, opens on 9 May and will examine and elaborate on punk's “incendiary influence on fashion”, as the curator Andrew Bolton describes it.

“The exhibition explores the huge impact on contemporary fashion designers and couture,” Bolton says. “Initially punk was a diverse range of stylistic identities, connected by a fiercely independent spirit of do-it-yourself which is punk's greatest legacy.”

The standpoint of punk saw the dawning of the age of the individual. It was about doing your own thing and making something out of nothing; hence the invented personas of the likes of Johnny Rotten, Soo Catwoman and Poly Styrene. At the time, anyone daring to step outside the norm was deemed confrontational and a threat to the society as, sadly, the revolution in the Sixties had simply swapped the grey uniform of besuited businessmen for a sea of denim. As Westwood suggests, it is hard to imagine now that simply wearing a pair of straight (not even skinny) jeans provoked hostile attention. But it was this stifling atmosphere that prompted punks to push beyond the boundaries.

At its genesis, and before Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood commodified the punk look with their Seditionaries: Clothes For Heroes label, the originators and early followers of the movement (a mix of art-school poseurs and dole-queue dropouts), were a disparate, raggle-taggle bunch of outsiders. There were no rules so each fashioned their own look, pulled together from clothes discarded by the mainstream. Second-hand and charity-shop finds were popular, combined with odd elements that were considered tacky and anti-fashion or anachronistic and boring: fluorescent colour, mohair, PVC and plastic, sex-shop underwear and old men's wardrobe mainstays such as mackintoshes, white shirts, dinner jackets and even string vests. Clothes were often falling apart through wear and tear, haphazardly safety-pinned back together or sliced up with zip fasteners. These were further “destroyed” with stencilled slogans and arty paint splatters.

These motifs of punk provide the inspiration for Bolton and the exhibition. The display is divided into galleries, each illustrating a different aspect of punk's visual vocabulary: hardware (safety pins, studs, padlocks, zips, chains); Bricolage (the use of found objects, trash and consumer products); Graffiti (spray painting, stencilling and slogans); and Destroy (rips and tears). In each gallery, original punk outfits will be juxtaposed with high fashion designs. So holey Seditionaries sweaters will appear alongside cobweb knitwear designed by Rodarte's Mulleavy sisters in 2008 (James Long did something similar in 2010) and a black jersey evening gown by Zandra Rhodes that was part of her Conceptual Chic collection from 1977. This dress features slashes with carefully embroidered edges held together by beaded safety pins and silver chains.

“Rhodes was the first designer to use the language of punk on the catwalk,” says Bolton, and indeed the eye-catching designer was dying her hair blue, green and pink long before Billy Idol reached for the bleach bottle.

“A safety pin is such a beautiful piece of design. I never tire of it,” says accessory designer Judy Blame, who still uses handfuls to embellish scarves and hats and outline lapels, hemlines and cuffs in the same way a couture house might embroider sequin paillettes and rhinestones. Another evening dress in the exhibition that uses safety pins is by the late Gianni Versace and became known simply as “THAT dress” when it was worn by the actress Liz Hurley in 1994. Fast-forward to autumn/winter 2013 and Versace's sister, Donatella has gone mad for punk, creating her own version titled VUNK. In that collection she clashes laddered knits, lurid leopard print and shiny PVC. She also adds spikes, studs and chains except this time the designer uses lethal-looking 6in nails to secure model Lindsey Wixon into her sinuous gown.

Such punk references were equally blatant in Jason Wu's spring/summer show where peek-a-boo bras worn under sheer black tops, long gloves and harness straps evoked the Banshees singer Siouxsie Sioux, while at Lanvin a photographic print silk dress featuring bare breasts was reminiscent of the “tits” T-shirt that was worn by Sex Pistol Steve Jones.

At Givenchy, for autumn/winter Riccardo Tisci favours collage couture with designs that appear to have been cut-up and reassembled: this look features tartan, florals, fur, lace and a Bambi print that alludes to the Sex Pistols. Tisci also deconstructs the black leather biker jacket, as does Junya Watanabe.

At the heart of the punk ethos is the Dada tenet of elevating everyday items to an art form, so it's not surprising that punks' penchant for wearing bin bags continues to inspire designers as diverse as Maarten van der Horst and Phoebe Philo at Celine. While Philo fashions checked coats and suits that resemble laundry bags, Van der Horst stitches Tesco carrier bags into a look that mimics the torn Union Jack of Jamie Reid's original punk graphics. The Fashion East catwalk, of which Van der Horst is a part, nurtures the same rebellious London underground spirit that fuelled punk – for spring/summer Clare Barrow showed graffitied designs alongside an outfit made from brown paper and a striped T-shirt and leather jacket that was pure Blondie-meets-The Ramones.

Although fashion folk have come to expect an element of surprise in Christopher Kane's collections, the finale of his spring/summer show was none the less shocking. The designer wilfully trashed his elegant pastel organza, crystal and lace 1950s-style ensembles with seemingly haphazard strips of gaffer tape for a look that tapped directly into the raw punk mood. But Louise Gray, whose anarchic couture designs have brought a riot of colour and sense of fun to London Fashion Week, went one step further in her autumn/winter show accessorising her models with rolls of packing tape as bracelets and a toilet roll worn as a brooch. It doesn't get much more punk than that.

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vdbstore-blog · 7 years ago

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New Post has been published on Vintage Designer Handbags Online | Vintage Preowned Chanel Luxury Designer Brands Bags & Accessories

New Post has been published on http://vintagedesignerhandbagsonline.com/charles-jeffrey-and-the-designers-transforming-fashion-for-a-post-gender-world-fashion/

Charles Jeffrey and the designers transforming fashion for a post-gender world | Fashion

The fashion designer Charles Jeffrey is wearing a kilt when I meet him. Granted, he’s Scottish – the 28-year-old grew up in Glasgow – but this is less about nationalism and more about what fans of RuPaul’s Drag Race will know as a “lewk”. The kilt is combined with an oversized leather jacket, chambray shirt, beret, striped football socks and paint-splattered boots held together with bright yellow electrical tape. On his Botticelli-ish face, Jeffrey has added two carefully positioned beauty spots with a kohl pencil. The overall effect is striking. It will provoke some quizzical glances from the ice-skating tourists at Somerset House in London, where Jeffrey’s studio is.

Since launching his label, Loverboy, in 2015, the designer has quickly become a poster boy for catwalk fashion that flouts gender norms, though he probably wouldn’t describe himself as such. Unisex fashion was retail’s answer to the increasingly loud debate over how we identify in terms of sexuality and gender – it was seen in Selfridges’ 2015 Agender unisex pop-up, and is now mainstream, with John Lewis recently making its childrenswear gender neutral. Jeffrey’s work is the flipside of this idea. Instead of discounting gender in fashion, taking away the gender constructs, it plays with them. He uses designs traditionally worn by a man (a suit, say) or a woman (a dress), and makes it a free-for-all, do-what-you-feel, dressing-up box.

Jeffrey’s Loverboy show at London fashion week men’s earlier this month. Composite: Rex Features

He is joined by other designers working in the same area, such as Edward Crutchley, who puts men in crinolines, and the Art School duo who put men on the catwalk in bodycon dresses. They all show their collections at the twice-yearly menswear showcase London fashion week men’s, which took place last weekend.

Jeffrey, though, is the star of this cohort. For his spring/summer 2018 show, the Loverboy label featured a man in a miniskirt and a woman in a striped trouser suit. It closed with a man in a floor-length wedding dress covered in childlike drawings. It didn’t – as it might have a few years ago, when streetwear dominated the men’s shows – prompt scepticism and sighs on the front row. Instead, it was rightly lauded as one of the best shows of the season and scored Jeffrey the emerging talent award at the Fashion awards in London in December. He collected the award from his hero, John Galliano, in a full face of makeup, including painted-on kiss curls.

Jeffrey followed his triumph with another this month. During the latest London fashion week men’s, he showed “Tantrum”, a blistering howl of a show that, in staging at least, recalled Alexander McQueen at his best. It began with a series of young men and women, painted white, running on to the catwalk and screaming at the front row. They then sat down at tables dotted in the venue and heckled models – including Faris Badwan from the Horrors – while swigging wine. Afterwards, Jeffrey told reporters that the collection was partly inspired by Alan Downs’ 2005 book The Velvet Rage, about growing up gay. “It’s about accepting anger and utilising it,” he said. “This is the first time I wanted to explore that particular emotion. It’s always been so joyous and fancy-free but there is a dark side to that, too, so I think it’s good to explore that.”

In 2015, a survey found that half of people aged 18-34 believe that gender exists on a spectrum and shouldn’t be limited to either male or female. Jeffrey is part of that generation refusing to define itself in binary terms. He believes “gender is like an idea” and “there’s this whole perception of how a man can look and a woman can look – and it’s such an interesting place to explore”. Jeffrey’s take on fashion and gender is playful and permissive – gender roles are something to be tried on, depending on how one feels that day. As such, it’s ignoring the signifiers of gender that clothing has provided for centuries. It’s disruptive. A man in a ballgown walking down a catwalk is like a Shakespearean heroine masquerading as a man – it’s carnivalesque, a cheeky “up yours” to the status quo. In fact, Jeffrey, in a truly millennial way, describes any discussion of gender as “a bit of an eye roll”.

Backstage at the London fashion week men’s Edward Crutchley show. Photograph: Tolga Akmen/EPA

He calls his career “a journey of my own identity”, one that began with Central Saint Martins’ infamously forthright tutor Louise Wilson, who died in 2014. “One day, she sat me down and I had all my drawings. I had a dress on, this big felt T-shirt and these weird shoes, and she was basically shouting at me: ‘Your work doesn’t make any sense!’” Wilson – who had also tutored Alexander McQueen and Christopher Kane – advised Jeffrey to examine his own dress sense and to take photographs of his outfits. These images, and this process, still form the basis of Loverboy, three years after he graduated.

This is a movement where the personal is the political – with Jeffrey’s kilt a perfect example. He tells a story of being on the metro in Paris. “I was wearing this Givenchy kilt skirt thing and these two guys started ripping the piss out of me … I ended up saying to them: ‘Vetements national … my heritage … I’m Scottish,’” he says. “They were like, ‘Oh, it’s a kilt. You’re not gay … it’s fine, then.’ I had to pretend not to be gay so I wouldn’t get harassed and I just remember thinking: ‘It’s so crazy,’ because as soon as they realised it was a kilt, their perception of it changed. Because [a kilt] is grounded in masculinity.”

Jeffrey has experimented with his image since his teens – and is well-versed in coping with other people’s reactions. He recalls getting punched at the age of 15 because he had dyed his hair orange. He worked out that he could survive – thrive, even – by finding a scene of like-minded people, first with an emo phase, and later in clubs in London. “What we do now feels like that for other people. One girl I met in Paris was dressed very normally,” he says. “She was shaking and she gave me this letter saying: ‘I have been able to come out because of your brand.’ I see her on Instagram now and she has shaved her head. She’s got that validation and she’s able to express herself.”

Finding a community where your identity is accepted and celebrated is an idea that would chime with Eden Loweth. He designs for his label, Art School, with his partner Tom Barratt who, says Loweth, “identifies as transgender, male to female”. For their show last Sunday, the two 24-year-olds included trans models and men in makeup on the catwalk. The trans model Munroe Bergdorf – who found herself in the limelight last year when she was hired by L’Oréal and then sacked for expressing strong opinions – sat in the front row wearing their clothes. Loweth says the brand is designed to appeal to their friends and those like them. “A lot of our friends wear mostly secondhand clothes because they can’t achieve their identity with clothes that are new and on the market now,” he says. “In the society we live in, it’s becoming increasingly hard for young people to have a voice. A lot of people channel that through what they wear; an expression of themselves.”

Art School on the catwalk at London fashion week men’s. Composite: Rex Features

The place where this self-expression was honed – for Jeffrey anyway – wasn’t just the studios of Central Saint Martins, but the club scene of London. Loverboy shares its name with the night that Jeffrey set up in 2015, first to help finance him through college, but later to explore his ideas in a curated space. It ran for just a year, but provided – along with Jeffrey’s rent money – the fertile soil for his ideas to grow in. He describes clubs as “a safe space to think, feel, be, see and present yourself. It’s the ideal place to pull a look. You can pull a look when you go to a restaurant, but you’re not really enjoying that look as much.” Does he still go out a lot? Jeffrey tries to cover his smirk and then cracks. “Hmm … yes, I do. There’s a whole rave scene happening. My friend has a contact; they’ll send him a message when there’s a rave. It’s amazing.”

The writer and model Niall Underwood, who studied with Jeffrey, is a muse for the designer and regularly wears his designs. He calls Loverboy clothes for “a post-gender world” and says he enjoys wearing them because of how inclusive they are for those in his milieu: “I’m a cisgender man who dresses up in makeup, but some of our friends are more femme and they can wear Charles, too.” Underwood believes the club setting and community of creative people is vital. “We are all the odds and ends of different family backgrounds who ended up united in a London nightclub,” he says. “That’s not a new concept, but that doesn’t mean it’s invalid.”

As Underwood says, the club as a permissive place to explore self-expression and play with gender norms isn’t a new idea (nor is men wearing clothes designed for women – Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood and JW Anderson have all played with this idea). Alistair O’Neill, reader in fashion history at Central Saint Martins, sees Jeffrey and his cohort in the tradition established in London since the late 60s. He namechecks David Hockney’s Notting Hill set, the scene around Roxy Music in the 70s and the clubs Blitz, Taboo and Kinky Gerlinky in the 80s – where Galliano, Westwood and Rachel Auburn, along with performance artist Leigh Bowery, were clientele. “Clubs can become the breeding ground for creativity,” says O’Neill. “Barry Miles called the dancefloor the R&D department of Central Saint Martins. These designs weren’t being sketched, they were being worn to a nightclub.”

Jeffrey’s Loverboy show on the catwalk for London fashion week men’s SS18. Photograph: Stuart C Wilson/Getty Images

O’Neill is careful about connecting what Jeffrey and friends are doing to “LGBTQ visibility and new debates about gender identity”. Instead, he emphasises the playfulness of this group of designers – one that marks them out from the genderless trend that came before it. “This is quite different,” he says. “This is not about daywear, it’s about a new kind of evening wear. These are clothes that stand out.” He also credits social media with the normalising of outfits that used to be reserved for after dark. “It’s this giant mirror,” he says. “I think it has put a different spin on self-fashioning and self-appearance in relation to that kind of community of people who are interested in projecting an idea of themselves. It’s hugely powerful, though I don’t think it’s all positive.”

Jeffrey is part of a generation where non-heterosexual and cisgender identities have, as O’Neill says, been “normalised as part of their peer group and wider society”. If the folks attending Taboo had a very different life in the daytime – “they were doing it all at nights and waking up in squats”, says O’Neill – Jeffrey’s generation is increasingly using clothes as self-expression 24/7. The designer describes his class at Central Saint Martins as a place where “it was the norm for people to be wearing dresses, girls in suits. You would have your Supreme sportswear person next to someone who pins ties to a towel and wears that.” The success of RuPaul’s Drag Race – now on its ninth series – has, he says, helped the mainstream become acclimatised to this different way of dressing. “That drag look isn’t only something you see in a dark basement of a club, you see it’s something that can be digested.”

Even if his clothes are not designed to be a political statement, Jeffrey does feel strongly about providing a space where trans identity can be celebrated: “there is a lot of stigma still attached to trans people and it’s important to communicate with the whole spectrum of what gender is, people who want to be associated with femininity and masculinity”. Loweth also feels strongly about this issue, with the label’s recent show featuring several trans models. “Trans identity across the world is being attacked, especially with people such as Trump in power now,” he says. “We want to create joyous self-expressions to combat that.” Resistance through joy is an idea that feels very 2018.

There is a school of thought that more and more people will start to dress in a way that subverts the long-established structures of who is meant to wear what – whether in a big way, as with Jeffrey’s gang, or with smaller tweaks, such as young men wearing glitter at festivals. Does that mean there is a gap in the market? Selfridges, which has worked with Jeffrey and Art School, thinks so. Jack Cassidy, the company’s menswear buying manager, says the designer, whose show it hosted last weekend, “is leading the way for a less gender-specific way of dressing and categorisation”. In-store, following on from 2015’s Agender genderless fashion project, Cassidy adds that up to half of the designer men’s avant-garde department (where the likes of Jeffrey would sit) is now sold to women. Cassidy believes this across-gender shopping will continue: “Generally, the new generation of fashion-savvy consumer would shop in stores and departments that historically were targeted to the opposite gender.”

Perhaps what makes Jeffrey and this cohort of designers feel important is that they are experimenting with self-expression as much as selling clothes. It means what they are doing rings true – and for a zeitgeist where authenticity is highly prized, that’s the sweet spot. “I’m happy walking down the street with makeup. It might lift today, it might make it that much more interesting,” says Jeffrey. “Rather than: ‘I’m going for a night out,’ it’s like: ‘I’m going to go and get my eggs.’ Let’s see how that feels.”

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fashiontrendin-blog · 7 years ago

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Who won big at the Fashion Awards 2017?

http://fashion-trendin.com/who-won-big-at-the-fashion-awards-2017/

Who won big at the Fashion Awards 2017?

Which of his ‘babies’ does double winner JWA love more? Where does Virgil Abloh go to party? and why couldn’t Adwaoh Aboah speak? Find out all this and more in our insiders’ report on fashion’s biggest night of the year…

Last night’s annual Fashion Awards, housed in the iconic Royal Albert Hall, honoured the glitterati of the fashion industry in an emotionally charged ceremony that combined major international glamour with poignancy – and unusual star turns galore. During the Fashion Awards 2017, there was a tribute to the late, great Azzedine Alaia (who died recently) from his tearful protegee Naomi Campbell, and a rendition of George Michael’s Freedom by Rita Ora, backed by a gay mens’ chorus – of course. There were major A-listers in attendance, from red carpet attendees like Selena Gomez to industry heavyweights including Anna Wintour.

What used to be a mainly Brit-focused affair is fast turning into a global event to rival the Met Ball for international clout – last night’s ceremony saw Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri make the trip over from Paris HQ to receive the first ever award for Positive Change, in recognition of her feminist-focused designs. Her predecessor at Dior, Raf Simons – now making headlines over at Calvin Klein – was also at the Albert Hall to receive the night’s biggest nod, Designer of the Year.

Marie Claire’s Jess Wood was backstage to chat to some of the winners – and to see major moments like John Galliano dancing down a corridor hand in hand with Donatella Versace (honoured with a special Fashion Icon award), while make-up queen Pat McGrath giggled from the sidelines.

Here’s what some of our favourites had to say…

Adwoah Aboah

Winner – Model of the Year

Shimmying backstage in her turban, Christian Louboutin plaforms and head-to-toe sequins by hot young London designer Michael Halpern (another of the night’s winners), girls’ mental health advocate and Gurls Talk founder Adwoah was speechless for a full minute when asked what winning meant to her.

‘It means so so much. London is home and I’ve watched a lot of my close friends pick up this award – I’ve also really looked up to their careers so to be following after them means a lot. To be sitting next to my mum and dad, and next to everyone from Professor Green to Stormzy to Maria Grazia, who have all been massive supports to me…I’m really really grateful.’ She’s got more than the award to be excited about, too – she’s just been announced as a newly-minted BFC (British Fashion Council) ambassador. She’ll no doubt be rolling up her sleeves and tackling taboo issues like models’ rights with typical guts.

Michael Halpern

Winner, British Emerging Talent – Womenswear (for Halpern)

You might not be that familiar with his name – yet – but that’s about to change, big time. Young London-based designer Halpern is fast becoming known as the new ‘king of cool glamour’ with his Studio 54-inspired sequins and glitz. But as he told us, sequins need to be taken seriously…

‘I’m a magpie in every regard. But what’s important is not just to focus on the disco era but the attitude that those people had – it was rebellion and trying to stand up for something. Using this idea of glitter and sequins as rebellion, that’s where I’m coming from.’ he told us with one arm round Pamela Anderson, his idol (and everyone else’s, as it turns out – who knew?), who was dressed in black floor-length Halpern sequins to present him with his award. So, um, what is it about Pammie, Michael?

‘Pamela was my OMG moment this evening! When I heard she was presenting the category tonight, I just wanted to meet her, I didn’t care if I won or not. She’s super authentic, she’s not trying to be anyone else. Nowadays, so many people are involved with their personas on Instagram and how they present themselves, and she’s just very honest in that way.’ Fashion fans, now you know…

Virgil Abloh

Winner, Urban Luxe award for Off/White

The coolest – and nicest – man in fashion, wearing trainers with his tux (obvs), stopped for a good old chinwag about his many talents and plans. He’s an architect by training, a longtime collaborator of Kanye West’s, and has pretty much been responsible for turning streetwear into a luxury fashion category with his label Off/White. But did you know he likes to spin a tune too? Read on…

‘With me, youthfulness is at the heart of it all – whenever I’m putting together my own look, it’s about ‘what’s red carpet for a 17 year old kid?’ and I guarantee he’s more comfortable in Nikes than dress shoes,’ Abloh told us about his Fashion Awards look. As for his award?

‘I love winning awards but I can’t place too much value on it. It’s super cool that they’re acknowledging this category now. British fashion has been integral to my career – Kim Jones has been my mentor for over 10 years. Louise Wilson [late legendary St Martin’s tutor] was my supporter and advisor, without going to St Martin’s – but she was someone who believed in today. Half my family is in London, and I’ve always felt an affinity for it as a melting pot. From Carnival, to grime, to skateboarding, club music…Music and streetwear has been here forever – music, rhyme, club dance have all influenced why sneakers are in trend. I come from that kind of back door of culture – I just gave myself the task of making it ‘high fashion”.

So, Virgil, what will you be doing to celebrate?

‘I’m going to celebrate by DJing at my own Off/White nightclub at Somerset House – at 180 Strand. I’m an architect by training. I’ve built this as a one off, one-night-only project. I’m playing at midnight – it goes on till 3am, playing house and techno. This is fun, but my whole sphere is like 4am on the dancefloor, DJing…’ Our names are on the door, yeah, Virgil?

JW Anderson

Winner, Accessories Designer of the Year (for Loewe) AND Womenswear Designer of the Year (for JW Anderson)

Yikes, the JDubz has done a double! Fashion’s most talented young whippersnapper scooped a major prize for each of his labels, a rarity in fashion awards history. So, which is he most excited about?

‘I can’t pick sides – it’s like having two babies. I love both brands!’ He confessed to us. ‘Actually, it’s kind of difficult to accept this – I feel like we’re in a very challenging moment in general and it’s difficult to feel you can accept something like this when things are very complicated. But I love my work. Sometimes I feel guilty and a bit like ‘am I going to be hated (or double hated) for my success? But who cares?’ Did he have a sneaking suspicion he might win? ‘Last year I came and I lost 4 awards! So I come with no expectations! As long as I’m drinking and having a good time then I’m fine.’ Cheers, JWA…

Scroll down for the full list of winners and some of the night’s best red-carpet looks…

Selena Gomez in Coach, below

Kaia Gerber in Ralph & Russo, below

Adwoah Aboah in Michael Halpern, below

FKATwigs in Versace, below

Host Karlie Kloss in Vivienne Westwood Couture, below

Here’s who won at the Fashion Awards 2017

Model of the Year: Adwoa Aboah

Outstanding Contribution to British Fashion Award: Christopher Bailey

British Designer of the Year- Menswear: Craig Green for Craig Green

British Designer of the Year- Womenswear: Jonathan Anderson for JW Anderson

Accessories Designer of the Year: Jonathan Anderson for Loewe

Swarovski Award For Positive Change: Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior

Urban Luxe Brand: Off-White

Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator: Pat McGrath

British Emerging Talent – Womenswear: Michael Halpern for Hapern

British Emerging Talent – Menswear: Charles Jeffrey for Charles Jeffery Loverboy

Business Leader: Marco Bizzarri for Gucci

Special Recognition Award For Innovation: Stella McCartney

Style Icon: Donatella Versace

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context-of-praticemolly-blog · 8 years ago

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GENDER IN ART AND FASHION

Lecture Notes

ART

15th century none the wiser to improving on ourselves; of idea of beauty to edit an image

1893- Mother Hood

Summertime Vivienne westwood what feminism is – response to lad culture. ( girl about town red wine spills screen printing- playing up to grisliness ( but going around) . Stereotype- reversing roles

Things have changed over time of image of beauty/ different types of nude. Body image the extent women go to surgery to live up to get beauty.

Nickolay Lamm “normal Barbie” 19 year old girl- did it suggest bodie type. Barbie couldn’t exist- too top heavy- she’s too skinny to old the lungs. The doll with normal body- spots- cellulite- art project that raises awareness?

GENDER AND FASHION

- How fashion is used to signify fashion

- Perception of clothing

- Greyson perry – an extreme?? Why wearing a dress for a man being noticed

- Jannelle monae – suits accepting – why wearing a suit of socially accepted- no stigma attached

- Social construct

- Rare to see a man wearing female clothing- will always cause comment. Not drag just everyday bases

High fashion

- JW ANDERSON 2013

Undermine masculine:

DAVIDE BOWIE – stage persona a sexual. Unisex

ANONOYMOUS

Kowtow – megatron

Women can wear a man outfit but not women clothing on men. All very masculine. Very famine- unisex just very masculine garment.

UNISEX CLOTHING ALL BOUGHT BY WOMEN. Most women wear men’s clothing of the rack.

Roles of men and women.- not equal or only encouraging their own stereotype- and what we aspire too. Why is the women so sexual- very bad narrative bad social norms. KWILTS

RICK OWENS- how to masculine in famine garments.

RAD HOIRANI- shot very clear in being unisex not to stereotypes

WHAT WOULD A MAN WOULD WEAR

Social constraints

History of men use to famine clothing.

MOTO GUO

Famine on a masculine siluate

To produce a conceptual garment- exploring boundaries between gender masculinity and identity- understanding of gender and perception thought your design.

Using women's design to apply to a shirt.

The theory

We should not confuse gender with sex.

· SEX: refers to the biological and physical state of men and women - i.e. male and female.

· GENDER: refers to the socially constructed roles and behaviors which society associates with men and women

Ideas about gender have always been a feature of society, whether in the past or present. You can tell this by looking at art throughout history. Art from the past makes it clear that all kinds of societies in every period of history had stereotypical views of gender.

Gaultier, by way of assuring interested buyers (of whom apparently there were none) he was not out to feminize men, is quoted as saying “I’m not saying men and women should look alike. It won’t be like the Sixties, where they had the same haircut and everything. They’ll share the same wardrobe, but they’ll wear it differently. Men will stay masculine and women feminine”’. (Davis, F. (1992), Fashion, Culture and Identity, University of Chicago Press, page 34 )

The main aspect of gender stereotyping discussed was ideas about women’s gender. From this you might imagine that that wome are the victims of gender issues. But later on it was clear that women are not the only victims of social stereotypes; men are affected too.

At various times during the history of art we can see that women were used and seen in several ways

-One was their role in the family - motherhood; painting women with the children and men in different roles as providers or protectors.

- Another revolved around sex. Sometimes they were shown as objects of sexual desire.

- Sometimes art showed sexual abuse or violence towards women. One example of this is shown in Artemisia Gentileschi, known as one of the first women artists. She showed and spoke through her work of being a victim of rape.

Even today, it seems, the more sexually powerful the advertisement on the billboards, the better the attraction of the advert.

It was suggested in the lecture that, currently, the role of women in fashion, art and the media has changed. Now women are seen as more beautiful the “skinner” they are, like zero sized models.

Is Art just reflection of gender stereotypes or can society sometimes be influenced by gender stereotyping in Art?

This is where our gender discussion began, in the lecture. Being a female myself, perhaps I am more aware of the stereotypes of a women, what gender issues there are for women, what labels and stereotypes there are and what is “expected of us”.

However, MEN, are stereotyped too. This is something which I hadn’t taken into consideration previously. They have “expected” behaviour too, for example to be “manly and strong”. During the lecture we commented how men are expected to be seen as masculine figures.

Grayson Perry for example He wanted to be an officer in the armed forces and he also wanted to dress up in women’s clothes. ‘He knew from the off that this was an unusual combination.’- being a role of officer someone is publicy respect it considered not acceptable to wear female clothing. Assuming it would take authority away from his job.

Unisex clothing is very current in today’s fashion. “Unisex” was explored in the late 1960s. “His n’ Hers” branded by Swedish designer Sighten Harragard. It was, and is something which unites genders and stereotype. But does it?

In today’s society it is common to see women wearing “men’s” clothing. Suits and trousers are very much acceptable, to wear as a woman.

But for men to be wearing “female clothing”, for example skirts, is just not done in high streets and mainstream fashion. Traditionally it was accepted - like monks and Scottish kilts, for example. It is also accepted amongst homosexuals and drag queens. But will it ever be an everyday occurrence in westernized fashion?

It has made me realize that gender issues are not just targeted at women, but men too. They are expected to give a strong, masculine, tough person, something which I hadn’t reflected before. Even in fashion terms.

Two things, to which I believe could be an answer, to why men’s stereotype assumptions aren’t widely spoken about. Women have taken years and still to this day to fight for women’s equality In the work environment, family roles and in relationships. Starting so long after women, will men ever close the gap?

Also women fought strongly to be given the freedom to wear what they wanted, for example, being “allowed” to wear trousers. So there’s something in me which questions this. If the expectation of men is to be more “masculine”, why haven’t they fought or spoken out, for it to be changed?

A more practical view point is “sex”. We all have biological differences. Some clothing wouldn’t be equally suited to men and women for practical living.

Our response

As a practical response from this reflection we were challenged to turn a men’s white shirt into something feminine for a man.

This required us to produce a conceptual garment. We had to explore what gender stereotypes meant in clothing terms. We then had to apply that kind of gender stereotype to a garment suited to a man.

For example, we decided to explore typical techniques which are seen more in women’s clothing than in men. Pleats, curves and flounces in highlighted areas of a shirt, like the collar, cuffs and shoulder width. We added flounce to a collar, because collars are stereotypical of a man, whereas a flounce is typical of female design. We also thought of having pleats at the bottom of the shirt, which is similar shaping to a skirt.

Reflection on our response

One thing which became clear to us was that it was not necessary to drastically change a garment to give it some impression of being either male or female. After all, we needed to maintain the shirt’s key qualities and keep the garment practical. Subtle changes, like flounces have a massive influence.

Another thing we became aware of is that the features of a garment which make it typically female involve more demanding techniques. Men’s clothes seem to be made simply, with little manipulation of the fabric. Darts are about the limit. Making a woman’s garment more ‘masculine’ would involve less work because it would be more straight and angular ad would not have to be so closely shaped to the body. Whereas clothes which are typically female involve more technical issues, such as pleating and gathering, more volume and more circular cuts.

One final issue is that stereotyping puts a huge constraint upon us as designers - especially today. What is acceptable to men is now so narrow that it limits what we can design for them. My solution is to introduce subtle changes to patterns, to broaden people’s perspective of what is acceptable - to let them know it’s ok.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Bibliography

Jennifer Craik, ‘Supermodels and super bodies’(2007)

Wilson, ‘gender and identity’ (1985)

Davis, F. (1992), Fashion, Culture and Identity, University of Chicago Press,

Berger, J. (1972) Ways of Seeing, Harmondsworth, Penguin

https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2014/aug/11/-sp-the-rise-of-gender-neutral-fashion

AuthorMorwenna Ferrier Article title:Gender-neutral fashion: beyond menswear and womenswear Website title:the Guardian

[Accessed 24th October 2016]

http://www.actyourage.eu/uploads/files/clothing_identity_and_the_embodiment_of_age.pdf [Accessed 24th October 2016]

http://www.saatchigallery.com/artists/grayson_perry.htm

AuthorSaatchi Gallery Article title:Grayson Perry - Artist's Profile - The Saatchi Gallery

[Accessed 24th October 2016]

http://www.slate.com/articles/double_x/doublex/2016/02/women_wearing_pants_are_still_controversial.html

AuthorNora Caplan-Bricker Article title:Women Who Wear Pants Are Still Controversial. (Just Ask a Flight Attendant, or Hillary Clinton.) [Accessed 24th October 2016]

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/men/fashion-and-style/10749463/Why-mens-fashion-is-not-like-womens-fashion.html

AuthorRobert Leach Article title:Why men's fashion is not like women's fashion [Accessed 24th October 2016]

http://www.parliament.uk/about/living-heritage/transformingsociety/electionsvoting/womenvote/overview/suffragetteswartime/ Article title:Suffrage in wartime

[Accessed 24th October 2016]

https://uk.pinterest.com/explore/androgynous-fashion-women/

Article title:Androgynous Fashion Women [Accessed 24th October 2016]

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