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“The most monstrous monster is the monster with noble feelings.”

— Fyodor Dostoyevsky, The Eternal Husband

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By Álvaro Gracia for Vogue Philippines December 2024

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Georgia Devey Smith

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what I wish people would understand about fundraising for gaza is that while everyone is desperate and I would never say not to fundraise for or donate to individual families-- I currently fundraise to support multiple friends' families-- the overwhelming narrative I see on Tumblr that the best and most ethical thing you can do is send money to individuals and there is no option for anything else is so so incredibly damaging and inadvertently lends support to the marginalization and distrust of any remaining communal social infrastructure. the sameer project, which you should donate to, talks about this in a recent video they put out. the situation in gaza is unimaginable and everyone is in need of a huge level of support, and yet this fundraising discourse by well-meaning people in the west that donating money to individuals is the only moral way reproduces societal divides wherein resources are directed to people who speak English, who have relationships with people outside of gaza, and who have internet access while hundreds of thousands are left behind.

there ARE non-ngo locally based grassroots initiatives working to meet those needs however they can, and your small donation goes a lot further with them because they are able to buy food/water/supplies in bulk at a reduced price and reach more people with less money. again I'm not saying people shouldn't fundraise for individuals because these initiatives are so limited and many people cannot access them -- but as an example, the group I fundraise with is currently serving people fleeing north gaza who are starving and have nothing, and when we fundraise enough to do cash aid distribution there's so much need that our partners can only distribute 100-200 per large family. and then I go online and see people who have absolutely no understanding of this context at all exclusively working towards raising tens of thousands for just a few people when evacuations haven't been possible for months. it's good to do whatever you can but please consider how this narrative being reproduced among westerners trying to help that there are no other options has the potential to damage groups working towards equity and wider reach however is still possible

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adriana @ lino villaventura ss06

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Fashion Prediction: Will we see the return of the 80s "Yuppie" ?

Padded shoulders, bigger silhouettes, and aspirational wealth...hm this looks familiar

It is December 2024. After a year full of contemptuous politics and unprecedented weather events, the world feels like it is delving further and further into some sort of parallel reality—one where hate speech has become an everyday occurrence, intellectualism is shunned, and empathy is running severely thin.

What does this have to do with fashion? Everything.

Fashion holds a mirror up to times.

Cyclically, the fashion cycle is supposed to operate on a twenty year trend cycle, however, social media, fast fashion production, and the availability of disposable income has thrown this cycle off in the past five years. Technically we are supposed to still be knee-deep in 2000s fashion aesthetics but the industry has reported a mix of ever-present 90s nostalgia and 2010s indie sleaze lurking around the corner. However, there is one era that is slowly creeping in...

What do American Psycho, The "Death" of Quiet Luxury, and Office SIren have in common?

The stereotype of the yuppie was the focus of American Psycho (2000) and can be summed up in this scene.

The 80s "yuppie" fits more in line with what preppy and falls more line with the "old money" revival. The "yuppie" is a slang term shorthand for Young Urban Professional. Born and bred the yuppies experienced a severe economic recession in the early 80s, followed by high inflation. In response to that when the economy finally stabilized and these young adults took their positions in high paying careers they projected a highly criticized image of excess and superficiality. In times of great financial insecurity and growing consciousness of the widening wealth gap the yuppie is a reviled but aspirational figure. Last year we saw waves of "old money aesthetic" and "quiet luxury" flood in, which both promoted an understated more austere style but I could see a more direct "yuppie" revamp coming our way with the renewed interest in preppy style.

The "Office siren", a microtrend that saw its rise to notoriety in 2024, combines the minimalistic aesthetics of the 2000s with workwear. The office siren is a simultaneous rejection and romanticization of corporate expectations, which in itself can be a form of power dressing. The office siren wears dark red lipstick , fitted oxford blouses, and heels that may pass as sensible but her shirt is slightly unbuttoned in a sexy and effortless way. The office siren can be read as Gen Z's response to entering the workforce, a point to breathe life into the corporate look we are now expected to conform to, The yuppie look is also one that grew one around the expectation to conform to a corporate environment.

"Mob wife" is a style that is more overtly attuned to 80's maximalism. It features color, exotic furs, textures, and excess. It is likely the result of continuing high inflation coupled with economic/political uncertainty that has people subconsciously craving material wealth in tangible and often louder ways.

Ready-to-wear in the past two fall/winter seasons has began to experiment with oversized silhouettes and colors. Multiple fashion journalists have decried big shoulders as a 2024 fall/winter trend.

Balmain Fall 2024 / Ferragamo Fall 2024

Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2023 / Helen Anthony Fall 2024

My prediction is that the fashion industry will begin to further incorporate 80's style it will eventually move into 80's power dressing which I can only imagine will lead them back to the polarizing inspiration. With all trends, the 80's will be back in a newer and re-interpreted manner. Even though I believe we will be seeing more visuals aligning with the yuppie look but there from a more nuanced and possibly deconstructionist viewpoint.

What do you think?

No photos in this article are owned by me.

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Ivan the Terrible and His Son Ivan by Ilya Repin

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Carlijn Jacobs shot M Le Magazine du Monde March24

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littlepie.hoian

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Harley Weir 'The Day I Shipped My Origins', 2019

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Gisele Bündchen for Out Magazine (1998)

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Yohji Yamamoto spring/summer 2004 Photography Laurie Bartley

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The Substance (2024) Carolie Fargeat Designed by Aleks Phoenix

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Enfants Riches Déprimés | ph. Ryley Paskal

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Alaïa