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Sawanoi: Sake(verse)
I bought sake for the first time in a while today.
When I lived in Tokyo,
Famous sake from Okutama that I often drank: Sawanoi.
Alcohol is associated with memories.
The Ozawa Sake Brewery is located at the foot of Mt. Mitake.
Ohme Line: There is a factory near Sawai station.
Surrounding a poet named Sansei Yamao
When we went hiking on Mt. Mitake
This is the place where I talked about love with a woman.
With that in mind, I also want to share my memories with her.
Drink this clear-tasting sake.
This sake has no unpleasant taste.
(2019.03.17)
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Yakushima & co
Janvier Ă Nagoya. Nos filles sont rentrĂ©es en Suisse (je vous raconterai plus tard), on a dĂ©mĂ©nagĂ© (je vous montrerai aussi un jour notre nouveau logement), il fait froid, les autres occupants du temple rentrent chez eux pour les vacances de semestre. Mi-temps de notre sĂ©jour. Câest un peu le blues. Donc: besoin de vacances au chaud. AprĂšs avoir pensĂ© Ă Taiwan, Ă lâAustralie (un peu dĂ©bile), nous optons pour le sud du Japon, plus exactement Yakushima. DrĂŽle dâidĂ©e... Mais au jardin botanique de Nagoya, il y a la rĂ©plique du tronc dâun arbre impressionnant, qui sâavĂšre ĂȘtre Jomonsugi, lâarbre peut-ĂȘtre le plus vieux du monde (estimĂ© entre 2000 et 7200 ans). Fascinant. Et ce cĂšdre du Japon se trouve sur cette Ăźle. Et on a toujours aimĂ© les Ăźles un peu perdues. Donc...
January in Nagoya. Our girls are back in Switzerland (see later), we moved to our temple (see later too), itâs cold, the other people in the temple all leave for semester holliday. Mid time for us. Itâs a bit bluesy. So: we need holidays and warm. We discussed Taiwan, Australia (a bit crazy), and settle for south Japan, more exaclty Yakushima. Funny idea... But in Nagoyas botanical garden, there is a replica of an uncreadible tree, Jomon Sugi, maybe the oldest tree on earth (2000 to 7200 years old). Fascinating. And this japanese cedar still lives on this island. And we love lost islands. So...
26 janvier, départ de Chubu Airport, encore en habit de noël...
January 26th, Chubu airport, still in its christmas flair...
AprÚs une nuit à Kagoshima (sur Kyushu), départ en ferry. Vue matinale sur le volcan actif de la baie: Sakurajima
After a night in Kagoshima (Kyushu),we continue our trip on ferry. Morning view on Sakurajima, the active volcano.
La baie de Kagoshima, qui fut le thĂ©atre de la guerre satsuma-anglaise en 1863: un ressortissant anglais ayant manquĂ© de respect dans sa maniĂšre de saluer un samurai est mis Ă mort Ă Kagoshima. LâAngleterre, exaspĂ©rĂ©e par un incident anti-Ă©trangers de plus, demande rĂ©paration. Le gouvernement japonais optempĂšre, mais la province de Satsuma refuse et attaque la flotte anglaise dans sa baie, qui rĂ©plique en bombardant Kagoshima, qui avait au prĂ©alable Ă©tĂ© Ă©vacuĂ©e. Japon: 5 morts, Angleterre 11 morts. Chacun clame la victoire. Et cet incident vaudra Ă Satsuma une ouverture sur lâEurope et un pavillon Ă elle Ă lâexposition universelle de Paris en 1867, un an avant le dĂ©but de lâĂšre Meiji (ouverture du Japon sur le monde)
Kagoshima bay. Theater of the Satsuma-England war in 1863: an english lord, not being respectful while greeting a samurai, is killed in Kagoshima. England, exasperated from one more anti-stranger incident, ask for reparation to the central governement. This one agrees, but Satsumas province refuses and attacks the english vessels in itâs bay. These reply by bombing the city of Kagoshima, but this one had been evacuated before. Casualities: 5 for Satsuma, 11 for England. Both claim victory. And both win indeed. Satsuma will gain an opening on Eurpe and a independant pavillon in the universal exhibition of Paris in 1867 (one year before Meiji era and opening from Japan to the rest of the world)
Yakushima, nous voilĂ !!!
Yakushima, here we are!!!
Yakushima. Un endroit unique. Lâun des lieux les plus humides du monde (sur le mont Mianoura, qui est avec ses 1935 mĂštres le plus haut du sud Japon, il pleut 10âČ000mm par an -1âČ000mm Ă NeuchĂątel-!). Climat subtropical sur la cĂŽte, et similaire au nord du Japon sur les montagnes.
Sur lâĂźle, nous sommes accueillis par un ami du moine de notre temple. Il vit sur cette Ăźle depuis 40 ans. Câest une histoire belle et triste aussi: Dans les annĂ©es 70, un groupe dâartistes idĂ©alistes alternatifs, menĂ©s par le poĂȘte Sansei Yamao, dĂ©cident de sâinstaller dans un village forestier fantĂŽme de lâĂźle. Câest lĂ que nous sommes reçus, mais de ce village, il ne reste plus grand monde, les enfants sont partis et les fondateurs morts pour la plupart. Il y reste la solutude et lâalcool...
Yakushima. A unique place. One of the wettest place on earth (10âČ000mm rain on Mianoura mountain - with 1935m the highest peak in south Japan - compared to 1âČ000mm in NeuchĂątel!). Subtropical climate on the coast, and simalar to northern Japan in the mountain 5 km inland).
On the island, we are met by a friend of âourâ monk. He lives here since 40 years. Itâs a nice and sad story: n the 70ties, a group of alternative, artist, idealists people, leaded by the poet Sansei Yamao, move to an abandonned forest village here. Itâs where we will be hosted. But from this village, there isnât many people left. Young one left, founders died. There is only loneliness and alcool left...
La vallée en approchant de Shirakawayama
The valley of Shirakawa
La table de travail de Sansei, oĂč rien nâa bougĂ© depuis sa mort il y a 15 ans
Sanseis writing table. Nothing moved since his deathe 15 years ago
La maison oĂč nous logerons
Our lodging
La triste rĂ©alitĂ© de la vie de solitude et dâalcool
Sad reality of lonelyness and alcool
Jâavoue ne mâĂȘtre rarement sentie aussi mal quâen cet endroit, qui pourtant pourrait tellement ressembler Ă un de mes rĂȘves... Le revers de la mĂ©daille... InsallubritĂ© (et je ne suis pas douillette), danger dâintoxication alimentaire (vive le sashimi qui a le retour dâĂąge), impresion de solitude extrĂȘme. Et difficile de sâĂ©clipser vis Ă vis de notre moine...
MalgrĂ© tout, on ne sera pas malades, il nous fera dĂ©courvir cette Ăźle merveilleuse, et il nous donnera mĂȘme lâoccasion de nous Ă©chapper sur Kuchinoerabujima (Ă voir plus loin).
I must say, I rarely felt as bad as there, even if it could look like some of my dreams... Dirtyness (and Iâm rather tough), food intoxication danger (like old sashimi...), extrem lonelyness. And difficult to escape without diplomatic incident...
Even though, we didnât get sick, and he will be very kind in showing us his island and even gave us our escape plan (see later)
Je garde la marche en montagne pour plus loin. Tour de lâĂźle:
I keep the mountain part for later. Around the island:
Climat subtropical
Subtropical climate
Les arbres de banian (limite nord de leur répartition)
Banian tree. There northmost limit.
La cĂŽte est. Devant nous lâAmĂ©rique?
East coast. In front of us, America?
Onsen magique (sauf que la guouille oĂč jâai eu le droit de me baigner Ă©tait cachĂ©e de la mer et vaseuse Ă souhait...)
Magic onsen (only I am ordered to bath in the next mini smearky bath with no ocean view...)
Les occupants de lâĂźle, espĂšce endĂ©mique de maquaques
An endemic macaques family
La plage de Nagata, oĂč les tortues marines viennent pondre en Ă©tĂ©
Nagata beach, where turtules breed in summer
Mais Yakushima, câest surtout la forĂȘt. Une forĂȘt de contes de fĂ©es (pour ceux qui connaissent, câest elle qui a inspirĂ© le film Mononoke Hime - Princesse Mononoke). Et ses cĂšdres millĂ©naires. Et Jomonsugi, qui se trouve Ă 5 bonnes heures de marche (aller simple). Comme la neige ne semble pas menacer (il peut y avoir plus dâun mĂštre de neige en hiver), nous allons entreprendre cette expĂ©dition. Mais dâabord, il faut quâon Ă©chappe Ă cet endroit diplomatiquement, donc nous dĂ©cidons de nous rendre sur lâĂźle voisine:
But Yakushima, itâs its forest before all. A fairy tale forest (it inspired Mononoke Hime, if you know). And itâs more than 1000 years old cedar trees. And Jomon Sugi, hidden in its 5 hours walk away mountain. As the snow isnât yet a problem (it can be up to more than 1m in winter!), we will do this expedition. But first, we have to diplomatically escape this place. And the opportunity takes the name of Kuchnoerabujima, the next island.
Kuchinoerabujima
Jamais entendu parler de cette Ăźle. Et pourtant: 122 habitants. Pas dâhĂŽtel, pas de restaurant, pas de super marchĂ©, et mĂȘme pas... de vending machine! Juste une poste, une mini Ă©picerie, un marchand se sake et un ferry par jour. Et surtout: trois volcans, dont un sâest animĂ© en 2015 et a causĂ© une Ă©vacuation totale de lâĂźle. Celle-ci fait 12 km x 5 km, et la moitiĂ© est interdite dâaccĂšs Ă cause des gaz crachĂ©s par le dit volcan. On trouve un pavillon Ă louer, et nous voilĂ au paradis. Endroit charmant, propre, ouvert sur la mer (mĂȘme sur le soleil couchant), et rien Ă faire que quelques balades!
Never heard of this island. And though: 122 inhabitants. No hotel. No restaurant. No supermarket. Even no vending machine! Just a post office, a mini shop, and of course a sake shop. A ferry per day. And above all: 3 volcanoes, one of them woke up in 2015 and all inhabitants had to be evacuated. Itâs 12x5 km. And half of it is closed to access because of the volcano gases. We find there a pavillon for rent, and we feel in paradise. Nice stay, clean, view on the open see (sunset even), and nothing to do other than short walks!
Le bateau de la délivrance ;-)
The ferry of the liberation ;-)
Traversée un peu agitée
A bit of a stormy crossing
La zone interdite prĂšs du volcan
The closed zone close to the volcano
Pas vraiment idéal pour les vacances balnéaires...
Not really the beachy island...
Notre terrasse
Our terrasse
Coucher de soleil depuis notre terrasse
Sunset on our terrasse
Une Ăźle toutes en pentes
A very hilly island
Dans notre jardin
In our garden
Onsen sous les vagues
Onsen under the waves
La capitale
The capitale
Un jour, il y avait 2000 personnes ici...
There were once 2000 people living on the island...
Retour sur Yakushima-back on Yakushima
Nous revoilĂ , incognitos, dans une autre auberge. Jomonsugi nous voilĂ . DĂ©part Ă 5h30 en taxi (pas de bus en hiver). 5h50, marche Ă la lampe frontale dans cette vallĂ©e de rĂȘve de Siratani (on lâavait vue le premier jour de notre arrivĂ©e, donc pas si grave de faire cette partie de nuit). Col, descente dans la vallĂ©e qui fut une grosse exploitation de bois. Marche le long des rail du train de dĂ©bardement. RemontĂ©e dans la forĂȘt. Incroyable quâelle aie Ă©tĂ© exploĂźtĂ©e jusque si loin dans les entrailles de lâĂźle. ArrivĂ©e Ă la souche de Wilson. La plus grosse souche de lâĂźle. Jâaime son histoire un peu triste: il Ă©tait une fois un cĂšdre, des plus hauts, des plus beaux. Et une province, Kyushu, qui refusait de se soumettre Ă Toyotomi (le âTaikoâ). Enfin vaincue (le village dâirrĂ©ductibles du Japon), Toyotomi exige en rĂ©paration la livraison de bois de cĂšdre pour construire un boudha et son âhallâ Ă Kyoto. Les forĂȘts seront donc inspectĂ©es pour trouver les meilleurs arbres. Dans sa forĂȘt lointaine, notre cĂšdre est repĂ©rĂ©. Il sera coupĂ©. On est tout Ă la fin de 1500. Juste avant la mort de Toyotomi et lâarrivĂ©e des Tokugawas au pouvoir. Comment il fut transoprtĂ©, mystĂšre. Il avait 350 ans. VoilĂ presque 500 ans que sa souche subsiste dans la mousse et la pluie. Elle est immense. On y entre, il y a dedans un petit temple, une source. Quand on regarde le ciel, elle forme un coeur. NâĂštait il pas plus boudha encore debout?...
Here we are, ingognito, in a guesthouse. Jomonsugi, here we come. Taxi start at 5:30Â (no bus in winter), walk start at 5:50, with head lamp, in this dream valley of Shiratani (we came here on our first day, so it isnât soo bad to be here by night). Pass, back to the next valley, where there once was a important wood industry. Walk along the old railway. Back up in the forest. Uncredible that that it would have been exploited so deep in the island. Arraving at Wilson stump. The biggest stump on the island. I like itâs somehow sad story: once upon a time, there was a cedar. One of the biggest, one of the highest. And a province, Kyushu how refused to be rled by Toyotomi, the âTaikoâ. Defeated at last (the Asterix village of Japan), Toyotomi orders from them cedar wood to build a big buddha and itâs hal in Kyoto. The forest are then inspected to find the best wood. In itâs far away island, our tree is spotted. It will be felled. We are just before turning in the 17th century. Just before Toyotomis death and governing of the Tokugawas. How it was transoprted, I really donât know. It was 350 years old. Itâs now nearly 500 years ago, and the stump still stand there, in moss and rain. Itâs huge. It has a shrine and a spring inside. When one watch the sky, one sees it as a hearth. Wasnât it more buddha when it was still standing?
La forĂȘt magique de la vallĂ©e de Shiratani
Magic forest in Shiratani canyon
Vue depuis le col
Sight from the pass
La souche de Wilson
Wilson stump
Marcher, marcher, marcher...
Walk, walk, walk...
CĂšdres frĂšres de sang
Cedars blood brothers
Plus de forĂȘt enchantĂ©e (plus plus et plus, 10 heures durant)
More enchanted forest (and more and more and more, 10 hours long)
Jomon Sugi !!!
Ibusuki
Retour à Kyushu, un peu plus au sud que Kagoshima, dans une ville balnéaire désuette et déserte, Ibusuki.
Back to Kyushu, a bit further south than Kagoshima, in an old fashion and deserted sea resort
AprĂšs avoir vu Jomon Sugi, jâai jurĂ© de ne plus bouger de mon fauteuil. Mais comme il nâa a pas de fauteuils au Japon, me revoilĂ en expĂ©dition, Ă vĂ©lo dâabord
After seeing Jomon Sugi, I swore Iâm never ever moving from the couch again. But as there is no couch in Japan, here I am, back on the road, by bicycle first
OK, ils sont Ă©lectriques, mais ça sâavĂšre plutĂŽt un handicap au vu de la capacitĂ© des batteries...
OK, they are electric, but this will be more a handicap as the battery capacity declines rapidely...
en route pour gravir le âSatsuma Fujiâ que voici
on our way to climb the âSatsuma Fujiâ:
Jolie grimpette dans une jolie forĂȘt
Nice climb in a nice forest
et nous y voici
and here we are
La baie de Kagoshime. A droite, Yakushima
Kagoshima bay. On the left, Yakushima
De retour à altitude zero, nous nous essayons à la spécialité du coin
Back to level zero, we try the local speciality
DrĂŽle dâimpression que dâĂȘtre emprisonnĂ© sous ce qui paraĂźt ĂȘtre des tonnes de sable chaud
Funny impression to be prisonner of what feels like tons of hot sand
Suivi de bains dans le plus beau onsen jamais vu (mais je nâai pas les photos Ă disposition pour lâinstant, sorry)
Followed by a bath in the nicest onsen ever (no picture yet, but it will come soon)
Kaimon dake, nous tâavons vaincu!
Kaimon dake, we mastered you!
Retour Ă lâauberge
Back to our minshuku
Et avant de reprendre lâavion, visite de Sengan-en, le jardin des Shimazus, gouverneurs de Satsuma.
And before going to the aiport, we visit Sengan-en, the Shimizus (lords of Satsuma) garten and house.
Les Ume sont en fleurs, ça sent si bon!
Blooming Ume, it smells so nice!
-N
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A Life of Love-The Time Dilation of the Devil (Prose Poetry)
ïŒMy romance affairs part 1ïŒ
 I have had romantic feelings with more than 10 women so far, and about 70% of them have been in love with each other.
  One of the most memorable women, let's say Ms. U, met her over two poets. At first, a reading session for a poet named Sansei Yamao was held in Hobbit Village in Nishiogi, Suginami Ku
,Tokyo, and he moved to Yakushima and idealized a self-sufficient way of life, so I sat in front of the seat. I was waiting for the start of the reading session. At that time, I saw a woman smiling at me.
  The reading session ended successfully, and it was a drinking party with Mr. Yamao. On the spot, I desperately tried to convey what I was thinking at the time, but Mr. Yamao turned away, saying, "I can't get stuck talking to you." At that time, Ms. U called out for the first time, "It was told after all." She seemed a little surprised when I said, "I think so, so I won't deny it."
  She said: "Speak yourself eloquently in your own words!" As if singing or dancing. I was so impressed with this word that I always kept in mind that it would be the case. And she drank the half-drinking glass as a matter of course because she said, "Drink this!" I drank.
Her lips were faintly "moving." ... At that moment, I thought, "Oh, this is falling in love." I fell in love with Ms. U's lips. (One theory is that there is a relationship between female lips and female genitals.) Ms. U was an editor of a monthly magazine. At that time, both I and she were very interested in what hippies should be, but the so-called hippie people called themselves "tribes." The guide for them was Sansei Yamao, and Nanao Sakaki, who will be described later.
  After that, I and Ms. U, who got to know each other in this way, met at several reading sessions. I went hiking with Mr. Yamao and others, and the feelings of mutual love with her became firm. Sometimes I was cold. The last time I met at the reading session was the reading session of Nanao Sakaki, a great poet who spans the globe. Actually, at this time, Mr. G, who had retired from the movement of the voluntary course related to environmental issues for a while, decided to go with him because he was going to a reading session, and at that time, we, the voluntary course, Group Mizu, are planning. I was trying to color the guide villa of the lecture, but Mr. G did not appear in the middle and I could not get into the coloring work.
  In the end, Mr. G did not appear, so I went to the reading session venue (Kokubunji City) with halfway work. (Mr. G had already moved alone and was at the seat) The venue was thriving, and Mr. U was directly opposite the seat where I was sitting. And a reading session. I continued the coloring work as an accompaniment to the poetry reading and distributed it to the visitors at the venue. At the time of the launch of the reading session, Ms. U sat to the left of me and ran down on me. I was also happy and said in my heart, "Ms. U belongs to me." And while caring for her, I stared straight ahead. With the accumulation that opens up the future.
  Here, the second party of the reading session is divided into two, but I sometimes talk to Mr. G, so I broke up with Ms. U, but her acquaintance gave directions to where Ms. U is. I was supposed to give it to me. However, the next thing that was waiting for me was rapid catastrophe. By all means, Mr. G seemed to worship Mr. Nanao personally, and a woman who was a big fan of Mr. Nanao, who was an acquaintance, said, "I had a reading session at such a junk (villa). I ran out of this pub because she said, "Be dirty!" While thinking, "Is there anything in the world of these people!"
  And, of course, I completely forgot about Ms. U from my head. About the so-called tribal (hippie) people, including Ms. U. She was sad that night and was comforted by another man, not me, and made a deal. I think that night was one of the biggest mistakes in my life. It was my mistake that I couldn't flexibly deal with the "devil's time dilation" in which the coloring book in the room of the self-directed course was shifted to the venue and all my steps were delayed. Let's go. Also, the last time I went to her editing room, I wasn't willing to make a false excuse that I couldn't control. (When I stumbled upon myself, it was "cool")
  We met at a poetry reading session by Sansei Yamao and Nanao Sakaki, who each worked from the perspective of living in harmony with nature, and we broke up again ... If I didn't get sharp at that time, I think it was a disappointing farewell when I thought that I was able to raise a few natural children now when I met her. I still think she was the ideal woman in India ... Padmini. (The word padmini appears in India's "Kama Sutra: The Scriptures of Love.") She said that in a spring storm, the petals of cherry blossoms that fell on the concrete , if not fot the concrete they could return to the soil. and her sensibility had a great influence on me.
  For "Padomini", please refer to the following entry.
 http://kermasutora.blog27.fc2.com/blog-entry-1.html
   Up until now, other women who had romantic feelings also had a process that led to catastrophe, but even though I am honestly dating, I wonder what this average of 0% romance fulfillment was like!
12.04.2022
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