#sansei yamao

[anamon-book]

日月燈明如来の贈りもの－仏教再生のために 山尾三省 水書坊 造本＝須藤康子＋島津デザイン事務所

[falseandrealultravival]

Sawanoi: Sake(verse)

I bought sake for the first time in a while today.

When I lived in Tokyo,

Famous sake from Okutama that I often drank: Sawanoi.

Alcohol is associated with memories.

The Ozawa Sake Brewery is located at the foot of Mt. Mitake.

Ohme Line: There is a factory near Sawai station.

Surrounding a poet named Sansei Yamao

When we went hiking on Mt. Mitake

This is the place where I talked about love with a woman.

With that in mind, I also want to share my memories with her.

Drink this clear-tasting sake.

This sake has no unpleasant taste.

(2019.03.17)

澤乃井（さわのい）：清酒

今日久しぶりに清酒を買った。

東京に住んでいた頃、

よく呑んだ奥多摩銘酒：澤乃井。

酒には思い出が付きまとう。

醸造元小澤酒造は御岳山の麓、

青梅線：沢井近くに工場がある。

詩人の山尾三省氏を囲み

その御岳山にハイキングに行った時

ある女性と愛を語り合った場所なのだ。

そんなこともあり、思い出も込めて

透明な味のこの酒を呑むのだ。

雑味が一切ないこの酒を。

[vauchertravel-blog]

Yakushima & co

Janvier à Nagoya. Nos filles sont rentrées en Suisse (je vous raconterai plus tard), on a déménagé (je vous montrerai aussi un jour notre nouveau logement), il fait froid, les autres occupants du temple rentrent chez eux pour les vacances de semestre. Mi-temps de notre séjour. C’est un peu le blues. Donc: besoin de vacances au chaud. Après avoir pensé à Taiwan, à l’Australie (un peu débile), nous optons pour le sud du Japon, plus exactement Yakushima. Drôle d’idée... Mais au jardin botanique de Nagoya, il y a la réplique du tronc d’un arbre impressionnant, qui s’avère être Jomonsugi, l’arbre peut-être le plus vieux du monde (estimé entre 2000 et 7200 ans). Fascinant. Et ce cèdre du Japon se trouve sur cette île. Et on a toujours aimé les îles un peu perdues. Donc...

January in Nagoya. Our girls are back in Switzerland (see later), we moved to our temple (see later too), it’s cold, the other people in the temple all leave for semester holliday. Mid time for us. It’s a bit bluesy. So: we need holidays and warm. We discussed Taiwan, Australia (a bit crazy), and settle for south Japan, more exaclty Yakushima. Funny idea... But in Nagoyas botanical garden, there is a replica of an uncreadible tree, Jomon Sugi, maybe the oldest tree on earth (2000 to 7200 years old). Fascinating. And this japanese cedar still lives on this island. And we love lost islands. So...

26 janvier, départ de Chubu Airport, encore en habit de noël...

January 26th, Chubu airport, still in its christmas flair...

Après une nuit à Kagoshima (sur Kyushu), départ en ferry. Vue matinale sur le volcan actif de la baie: Sakurajima

After a night in Kagoshima (Kyushu),we continue our trip on ferry. Morning view on Sakurajima, the active volcano.

La baie de Kagoshima, qui fut le théatre de la guerre satsuma-anglaise en 1863: un ressortissant anglais ayant manqué de respect dans sa manière de saluer un samurai est mis à mort à Kagoshima. L’Angleterre, exaspérée par un incident anti-étrangers de plus, demande réparation. Le gouvernement japonais optempère, mais la province de Satsuma refuse et attaque la flotte anglaise dans sa baie, qui réplique en bombardant Kagoshima, qui avait au préalable été évacuée. Japon: 5 morts, Angleterre 11 morts. Chacun clame la victoire. Et cet incident vaudra à Satsuma une ouverture sur l’Europe et un pavillon à elle à l’exposition universelle de Paris en 1867, un an avant le début de l’ère Meiji (ouverture du Japon sur le monde)

Kagoshima bay. Theater of the Satsuma-England war in 1863: an english lord, not being respectful while greeting a samurai, is killed in Kagoshima. England, exasperated from one more anti-stranger incident, ask for reparation to the central governement. This one agrees, but Satsumas province refuses and attacks the english vessels in it’s bay. These reply by bombing the city of Kagoshima, but this one had been evacuated before. Casualities: 5 for Satsuma, 11 for England. Both claim victory. And both win indeed. Satsuma will gain an opening on Eurpe and a independant pavillon in the universal exhibition of Paris in 1867 (one year before Meiji era and opening from Japan to the rest of the world)

Yakushima, nous voilà!!!

Yakushima, here we are!!!

Yakushima. Un endroit unique. L’un des lieux les plus humides du monde (sur le mont Mianoura, qui est avec ses 1935 mètres le plus haut du sud Japon, il pleut 10′000mm par an -1′000mm à Neuchâtel-!). Climat subtropical sur la côte, et similaire au nord du Japon sur les montagnes.

Sur l’île, nous sommes accueillis par un ami du moine de notre temple. Il vit sur cette île depuis 40 ans. C’est une histoire belle et triste aussi: Dans les années 70, un groupe d’artistes idéalistes alternatifs, menés par le poête Sansei Yamao, décident de s’installer dans un village forestier fantôme de l’île. C’est là que nous sommes reçus, mais de ce village, il ne reste plus grand monde, les enfants sont partis et les fondateurs morts pour la plupart. Il y reste la solutude et l’alcool...

Yakushima. A unique place. One of the wettest place on earth (10′000mm rain on Mianoura mountain - with 1935m the highest peak in south Japan - compared to 1′000mm in Neuchâtel!). Subtropical climate on the coast, and simalar to northern Japan in the mountain 5 km inland).

On the island, we are met by a friend of ‘our’ monk. He lives here since 40 years. It’s a nice and sad story: n the 70ties, a group of alternative, artist, idealists people, leaded by the poet Sansei Yamao, move to an abandonned forest village here. It’s where we will be hosted. But from this village, there isn’t many people left. Young one left, founders died. There is only loneliness and alcool left...

La vallée en approchant de Shirakawayama

The valley of Shirakawa

La table de travail de Sansei, où rien n’a bougé depuis sa mort il y a 15 ans

Sanseis writing table. Nothing moved since his deathe 15 years ago

La maison où nous logerons

Our lodging

La triste réalité de la vie de solitude et d’alcool

Sad reality of lonelyness and alcool

J’avoue ne m’être rarement sentie aussi mal qu’en cet endroit, qui pourtant pourrait tellement ressembler à un de mes rêves... Le revers de la médaille... Insallubrité (et je ne suis pas douillette), danger d’intoxication alimentaire (vive le sashimi qui a le retour d’âge), impresion de solitude extrême. Et difficile de s’éclipser vis à vis de notre moine...

Malgré tout, on ne sera pas malades, il nous fera décourvir cette île merveilleuse, et il nous donnera même l’occasion de nous échapper sur Kuchinoerabujima (à voir plus loin).

I must say, I rarely felt as bad as there, even if it could look like some of my dreams... Dirtyness (and I’m rather tough), food intoxication danger (like old sashimi...), extrem lonelyness. And difficult to escape without diplomatic incident...

Even though, we didn’t get sick, and he will be very kind in showing us his island and even gave us our escape plan (see later)

Je garde la marche en montagne pour plus loin. Tour de l’île:

I keep the mountain  part for later. Around the island:

Climat subtropical

Subtropical climate

Les arbres de banian (limite nord de leur répartition)

Banian tree. There northmost limit.

La côte est. Devant nous l’Amérique?

East coast. In front of us, America?

Onsen magique (sauf que la guouille où j’ai eu le droit de me baigner était cachée de la mer et vaseuse à souhait...)

Magic onsen (only I am ordered to bath in the next mini smearky bath with no ocean view...)

Les occupants de l’île, espèce endémique de maquaques

An endemic macaques family

La plage de Nagata, où les tortues marines viennent pondre en été

Nagata beach, where turtules breed in summer

Mais Yakushima, c’est surtout la forêt. Une forêt de contes de fées (pour ceux qui connaissent, c’est elle qui a inspiré le film Mononoke Hime - Princesse Mononoke). Et ses cèdres millénaires. Et Jomonsugi, qui se trouve à 5 bonnes heures de marche (aller simple). Comme la neige ne semble pas menacer (il peut y avoir plus d’un mètre de neige en hiver), nous allons entreprendre cette expédition. Mais d’abord, il faut qu’on échappe à cet endroit diplomatiquement, donc nous décidons de nous rendre sur l’île voisine:

But Yakushima, it’s its forest before all. A fairy tale forest (it inspired Mononoke Hime, if you know). And it’s more than 1000 years old cedar trees. And Jomon Sugi, hidden in its 5 hours walk away mountain. As the snow isn’t yet a problem (it can be up to more than 1m in winter!), we will do this expedition. But first, we have to diplomatically escape this place. And the opportunity takes the name of Kuchnoerabujima, the next island.

Kuchinoerabujima

Jamais entendu parler de cette île. Et pourtant: 122 habitants. Pas d’hôtel, pas de restaurant, pas de super marché, et même pas... de vending machine! Juste une poste, une mini épicerie, un marchand se sake et un ferry par jour. Et surtout: trois volcans, dont un s’est animé en 2015 et a causé une évacuation totale de l’île. Celle-ci fait 12 km x 5 km, et la moitié est interdite d’accès à cause des gaz crachés par le dit volcan. On trouve un pavillon à louer, et nous voilà au paradis. Endroit charmant, propre, ouvert sur la mer (même sur le soleil couchant), et rien à faire que quelques balades!

Never heard of this island. And though: 122 inhabitants. No hotel. No restaurant. No supermarket. Even no vending machine! Just a post office, a mini shop, and of course a sake shop. A ferry per day. And above all: 3 volcanoes, one of them woke up in 2015 and all inhabitants had to be evacuated. It’s 12x5 km. And half of it is closed to access because of the volcano gases. We find there a pavillon for rent, and we feel in paradise. Nice stay, clean, view on the open see (sunset even), and nothing to do other than short walks!

Le bateau de la délivrance ;-)

The ferry of the liberation ;-)

Traversée un peu agitée

A bit of a stormy crossing

La zone interdite près du volcan

The closed zone close to the volcano

Pas vraiment idéal pour les vacances balnéaires...

Not really the beachy island...

Notre terrasse

Our terrasse

Coucher de soleil depuis notre terrasse

Sunset on our terrasse

Une île toutes en pentes

A very hilly island

Dans notre jardin

In our garden

Onsen sous les vagues

Onsen under the waves

La capitale

The capitale

Un jour, il y avait 2000 personnes ici...

There were once 2000 people living on the island...

Retour sur Yakushima-back on Yakushima

Nous revoilà, incognitos, dans une autre auberge. Jomonsugi nous voilà. Départ à 5h30 en taxi (pas de bus en hiver). 5h50, marche à la lampe frontale dans cette vallée de rêve de Siratani (on l’avait vue le premier jour de notre arrivée, donc pas si grave de faire cette partie de nuit). Col, descente dans la vallée qui fut une grosse exploitation de bois. Marche le long des rail du train de débardement. Remontée dans la forêt. Incroyable qu’elle aie été exploîtée jusque si loin dans les entrailles de l’île. Arrivée à la souche de Wilson. La plus grosse souche de l’île. J’aime son histoire un peu triste: il était une fois un cèdre, des plus hauts, des plus beaux. Et une province, Kyushu, qui refusait de se soumettre à Toyotomi (le ‘Taiko’). Enfin vaincue (le village d’irréductibles du Japon), Toyotomi exige en réparation la livraison de bois de cèdre pour construire un boudha et son ‘hall’ à Kyoto. Les forêts seront donc inspectées pour trouver les meilleurs arbres. Dans sa forêt lointaine, notre cèdre est repéré. Il sera coupé. On est tout à la fin de 1500. Juste avant la mort de Toyotomi et l’arrivée des Tokugawas au pouvoir. Comment il fut transoprté, mystère. Il avait 350 ans. Voilà presque 500 ans que sa souche subsiste dans la mousse et la pluie. Elle est immense. On y entre, il y a dedans un petit temple, une source. Quand on regarde le ciel, elle forme un coeur. N’ètait il pas plus boudha encore debout?...

Here we are, ingognito, in a guesthouse. Jomonsugi, here we come. Taxi start at 5:30  (no bus in winter), walk start at 5:50, with head lamp, in this dream valley of Shiratani (we came here on our first day, so it isn’t soo bad to be here by night). Pass, back to the next valley, where there once was a important wood industry. Walk along the old railway. Back up in the forest. Uncredible that that it would have been exploited so deep in the island. Arraving at Wilson stump. The biggest stump on the island. I like it’s somehow sad story: once upon a time, there was a cedar. One of the biggest, one of the highest. And a province, Kyushu how refused to be rled by Toyotomi, the ‘Taiko’. Defeated at last (the Asterix village of Japan), Toyotomi orders from them cedar wood to build a big buddha and it’s hal in Kyoto. The forest are then inspected to find the best wood. In it’s far away island, our tree is spotted. It will be felled. We are just before turning in the 17th century. Just before Toyotomis death and governing of the Tokugawas. How it was transoprted, I really don’t know. It was 350 years old. It’s now nearly 500 years ago, and the stump still stand there, in moss and rain. It’s huge. It has a shrine and a spring inside. When one watch the sky, one sees it as a hearth. Wasn’t it more buddha when it was still standing?

La forêt magique de la vallée de Shiratani

Magic forest in Shiratani canyon

Vue depuis le col

Sight from the pass

La souche de Wilson

Wilson stump

Marcher, marcher, marcher...

Walk, walk, walk...

Cèdres frères de sang

Cedars blood brothers

Plus de forêt enchantée (plus plus et plus, 10 heures durant)

More enchanted forest (and more and more and more, 10 hours long)

Jomon Sugi !!!

Ibusuki

Retour à Kyushu, un peu plus au sud que Kagoshima, dans une ville balnéaire désuette et déserte, Ibusuki.

Back to Kyushu, a bit further south than Kagoshima, in an old fashion and deserted sea resort

Après avoir vu Jomon Sugi, j’ai juré de ne plus bouger de mon fauteuil. Mais comme il n’a a pas de fauteuils au Japon, me revoilà en expédition, à vélo d’abord

After seeing Jomon Sugi, I swore I‘m never  ever moving from the couch again. But as there is no couch in Japan, here I am, back on the road, by bicycle first

OK, ils sont électriques, mais ça s’avère plutôt un handicap au vu de la capacité des batteries...

OK, they are electric, but this will be more a handicap as the battery capacity declines rapidely...

en route pour gravir le ‘Satsuma Fuji’ que voici

on our way to climb the ‘Satsuma Fuji’:

Jolie grimpette dans une jolie forêt

Nice climb in a nice forest

et nous y voici

and here we are

La baie de Kagoshime. A droite, Yakushima

Kagoshima bay. On the left, Yakushima

De retour à altitude zero, nous nous essayons à la spécialité du coin

Back to level zero, we try the local speciality

Drôle d’impression que d’être emprisonné sous ce qui paraît être des tonnes de sable chaud

Funny impression to be prisonner of what feels like tons of hot sand

Suivi de bains dans le plus beau onsen jamais vu (mais je n’ai pas les photos à disposition pour l’instant, sorry)

Followed by a bath in the nicest onsen ever (no picture yet, but it will come soon)

Kaimon dake, nous t’avons vaincu!

Kaimon dake, we mastered you!

Retour à l’auberge

Back to our minshuku

Et avant de reprendre l’avion, visite de Sengan-en, le jardin des Shimazus,  gouverneurs de Satsuma.

And before going to the aiport, we visit Sengan-en, the Shimizus (lords of Satsuma) garten and house.

Les Ume sont en fleurs, ça sent si bon!

Blooming Ume, it smells so nice!

-N

[falseandrealultravival]

A Life of Love-The Time Dilation of the Devil (Prose Poetry)

（My romance affairs part 1）

 I have had romantic feelings with more than 10 women so far, and about 70% of them have been in love with each other.

  One of the most memorable women, let's say Ms. U, met her over two poets. At first, a reading session for a poet named Sansei Yamao was held in Hobbit Village in Nishiogi, Suginami Ku

,Tokyo, and he moved to Yakushima and idealized a self-sufficient way of life, so I sat in front of the seat. I was waiting for the start of the reading session. At that time, I saw a woman smiling at me.

  The reading session ended successfully, and it was a drinking party with Mr. Yamao. On the spot, I desperately tried to convey what I was thinking at the time, but Mr. Yamao turned away, saying, "I can't get stuck talking to you." At that time, Ms. U called out for the first time, "It was told after all." She seemed a little surprised when I said, "I think so, so I won't deny it."

  She said: "Speak yourself eloquently in your own words!" As if singing or dancing. I was so impressed with this word that I always kept in mind that it would be the case. And she drank the half-drinking glass as a matter of course because she said, "Drink this!" I drank.

Her lips were faintly "moving." ... At that moment, I thought, "Oh, this is falling in love." I fell in love with Ms. U's lips. (One theory is that there is a relationship between female lips and female genitals.) Ms. U was an editor of a monthly magazine. At that time, both I and she were very interested in what hippies should be, but the so-called hippie people called themselves "tribes." The guide for them was Sansei Yamao, and Nanao Sakaki, who will be described later.

  After that, I and Ms. U, who got to know each other in this way, met at several reading sessions. I went hiking with Mr. Yamao and others, and the feelings of mutual love with her became firm. Sometimes I was cold. The last time I met at the reading session was the reading session of Nanao Sakaki, a great poet who spans the globe. Actually, at this time, Mr. G, who had retired from the movement of the voluntary course related to environmental issues for a while, decided to go with him because he was going to a reading session, and at that time, we, the voluntary course, Group Mizu, are planning. I was trying to color the guide villa of the lecture, but Mr. G did not appear in the middle and I could not get into the coloring work.

  In the end, Mr. G did not appear, so I went to the reading session venue (Kokubunji City) with halfway work. (Mr. G had already moved alone and was at the seat) The venue was thriving, and Mr. U was directly opposite the seat where I was sitting. And a reading session. I continued the coloring work as an accompaniment to the poetry reading and distributed it to the visitors at the venue. At the time of the launch of the reading session, Ms. U sat to the left of me and ran down on me. I was also happy and said in my heart, "Ms. U belongs to me." And while caring for her, I stared straight ahead. With the accumulation that opens up the future.

   Here, the second party of the reading session is divided into two, but I sometimes talk to Mr. G, so I broke up with Ms. U, but her acquaintance gave directions to where Ms. U is. I was supposed to give it to me. However, the next thing that was waiting for me was rapid catastrophe. By all means, Mr. G seemed to worship Mr. Nanao personally, and a woman who was a big fan of Mr. Nanao, who was an acquaintance, said, "I had a reading session at such a junk (villa). I ran out of this pub because she said, "Be dirty!" While thinking, "Is there anything in the world of these people!"

  And, of course, I completely forgot about Ms. U from my head. About the so-called tribal (hippie) people, including Ms. U. She was sad that night and was comforted by another man, not me, and made a deal. I think that night was one of the biggest mistakes in my life. It was my mistake that I couldn't flexibly deal with the "devil's time dilation" in which the coloring book in the room of the self-directed course was shifted to the venue and all my steps were delayed. Let's go. Also, the last time I went to her editing room, I wasn't willing to make a false excuse that I couldn't control. (When I stumbled upon myself, it was "cool")

  We met at a poetry reading session by Sansei Yamao and Nanao Sakaki, who each worked from the perspective of living in harmony with nature, and we broke up again ... If I didn't get sharp at that time, I think it was a disappointing farewell when I thought that I was able to raise a few natural children now when I met her. I still think she was the ideal woman in India ... Padmini. (The word padmini appears in India's "Kama Sutra: The Scriptures of Love.") She said that in a spring storm, the petals of cherry blossoms that fell on the concrete , if not fot the concrete they could return to the soil. and her sensibility had a great influence on me.

  For "Padomini", please refer to the following entry.

 http://kermasutora.blog27.fc2.com/blog-entry-1.html

   Up until now, other women who had romantic feelings also had a process that led to catastrophe, but even though I am honestly dating, I wonder what this average of 0% romance fulfillment was like!

12.04.2022