#rabbit manure nutrients

[farmerstrend]

Understanding NPK Analysis in Different Types of Manure: A Guide for Farmers

Manure is one of the most cost-effective and environmentally friendly fertilizers available to farmers. However, not all manure is created equal. Understanding the nutrient composition—commonly expressed as NPK (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium)—is crucial for optimizing crop yields and soil health. Here’s a detailed breakdown of the NPK analysis for common types of manure, along with…

[wuxiaphoenix]

Worldbuilding: Cultivating Green

Aquarium snails like lettuce. They really, really like lettuce. Especially Romaine. Apparently it tends to have more calcium than other lettuces, which not only helps snails build good shells but is one reason it’s a preferred green to feed rehabilitating manatees. The fact that it floats, making it easy to grab leaves off the surface, doesn’t hurt a bit.

Greens are good for you. They are also, in some circumstances, absolutely deadly. A few things you might consider before you feed your characters a salad include plant breeding, agricultural tech, and water handling.

First, how advanced is your plant breeding? How cultivated are your varieties? Have they been bred to reduce toxicity?

Yes, toxicity. Plants evolved to be resistant to being eaten, just like animals. Only since they can’t run away, they rely on other strategies. Most plants that we can technically eat, for example grass, aren’t very nutritious. Grazing herbivores definitely chew grass, but they get most of their nutrients from digesting the microbes in their guts that can actually break down the cellulose. Like termites. Grazing herbivores also tend to browse on the tender tips of bushes and trees when they can, for more protein.

Though this has its drawbacks. Plants that are nutritious tend to be very, very toxic. Clover? Very nutritious, good grazing for animals and the occasional human - but humans at least have to eat it fresh, and it has compounds known to be abortifacient in large quantities. Milkweed? You eat very specific parts, and change out some water, to avoid the toxins that make birds seriously sick if they target a Monarch butterfly. Apple leaves and branches? Go ahead and cut fresh bits for your horse or rabbit, but take the bits away before they can wilt because cyanide. Potatoes and tomatoes? Nightshades, they can really mess you up. Only the fruit of the tomato is edible; and if you find a wild potato, or even just an unknown cross - I’m begging you, do not eat the tubers unless someone’s able to test them in a lab first. Farmers in the Andes worked for thousands of years to get our table varieties, and every seed from a cross is still a roll of the dice. Not to mention some actively if slightly-less-toxic potatoes are still grown because they’re tough enough to survive very bad conditions.

(You eat them after they’ve been freeze-dried, and you eat them with clay. Do not skip the clay. It absorbs the toxins.)

There are a very few plants that are both nutritious and nontoxic, but they’re rare. Wild cabbage, ancestor to our modern brassicas like broccoli, radish, cabbages, etc., naturally grows on limestone cliffs with basic soils high in salt and lime, where very few other things like the environment. Though extreme environments cannot be counted on to produce edible plants. Look at some of the nasty compounds that are in cactus pulp. Preferably before you try to drink it.

Second, how advanced is the local agricultural tech? What are they using for fertilizer? Organic fertilizer is often either marl (not found everywhere) or manure. Hopefully well-aged manure; hopefully not human manure. But any kind carries the risk of disease and parasites. There are ways to cut those risks; do the farmers know how?

Third, how advanced is the tech for obtaining clean water, and purifying water that might not be clean? Even the best, cleanest field might get targeted by passing birds; washing your greens before you eat them is good sense. Unless the water’s not reliable. In which case all your veggies might be stir-fry, not salad.

It’s possible all of this is just unimportant background in your story. But if your characters are in a foraging or other survival situation... these are bits to consider. They may be safest just hunting!

[bumblebeeappletree]

Jane tours an established food forest where nearly everything you see is good enough to eat.

Deep in the Yarra Valley about an hour Northeast of Melbourne, Jane visits a garden filled with over 300 plants from around the world. This dense one-acre food forest is purposed as an edible and medicinal forest. It is also a wedding venue and home to the initiator of the project, Louise Ward, who lives here with her husband. Louise says they are “mimicking the normal forest as a food system...things that you would find when you go into a forest. Some things you can eat and some things you can't, but they all have their purpose within the forest. That's what the edible forest is all about.”

Louise came across the idea while researching permaculture and saw the term edible forest. “I thought wow that would be amazing... it'll be like the garden of Eden. People can walk in and taste. I can just see it in front of me,” she says. The site began as a clear open paddock on clay soil, so to improve the soil she and her husband brought in manure of all kinds. Now, everywhere you look is covered in plants along structured pathways and the result is that “there's a lot of produce,” says Louise, “We’re always having to think what we do with it. Because we’ve got the business here, we use it in the menus as well.”

Horticulturalist Jamie Sweetman has looked after these plants for nearly four years and takes tour groups around the garden. Jamie says, “we've got about 330 plants in here and about 200 are edible. The other hundred just fit into the system, so they will be attracting beneficial bugs or nitrogen-fixing. Everything has to have an excuse to be in here.” Large areas of the garden are protected by a netted structure which keeps out deer, rabbits and cockatoos, while still allowing the smaller creatures in. Jamie says, “the little birds can come in, so we've got blue wrens in here... they come in and out of the fence line as they please. The bees and the dragon flies, all the good stuff.”

Some of the plants harvested for medicinal purposes include rosehips and elderberry which can be made into syrups. Peruvian gooseberries can be eaten fresh, but a favourite this time of year is the chokeberry. Jamie says despite the name, “no, you won't choke but they're quite astringent. In saying that they have more antioxidants in them than blueberries. Easier to grow, they make a great hedge, easy to harvest and all ripen at the same time... they are in the rose family, you can kind of tell by the leaf shape.”

A common method of repurposing green waste is to chop-and-drop. Jamie explains “you'll cut something down and drop it on the ground so that the nutrients can go back into the ground.” The version they’re using in the edible forest is a wire structure shaped into a cylinder in which the green waste is piled up. Jamie says, “we will pull that up soon, throw some mulch over the top, leave it for a while and it’s building soil on site.” They also have a wetland area where everything is edible, including the Australian native water fern, nardoo, and a range of other nitrogen fixing plants such as the Persian silk tree. Jamie explains that nitrogen-fixing plants “have nodules on their roots that turn nitrogen into forms that other plants find accessible, so they’re self-fertilising our garden for us.”

Amongst all these plants with purpose, Louise does have a special favourite, the gotu kola. Louise says, “it’s a medicinal one, so it's not the most beautiful looking one... it’s very very happy over here and it’s a great little groundcover, too.” Louise says, “gardening is one of the best things I've ever discovered. It's just wonderful. Getting your hands dirty is just one of the most wonderful things in the world. It's really good for you mentally. It's everything.”

[wolfalder]

Just as a heads up - when you buy fur from any sort of 'ranched' animal, that is (pretty much) always going to be from an animal that was deliberately farmed and killed for its fur. Cases of death by old age or illness are extremely rare when it comes to buying pelts or tails or other parts - when they do happen, the seller will always say it directly in the posted item's sale description or will state in their store description that all of their materials come from animals that were not killed specifically for their fur.

There are no furbearing animals that are ranched that are also consumed by humans except for rabbits, and they aren't used in food for other animals either (with very few exceptions, typically homesteaders feeding carcasses to pigs and using the pigs for their own personal consumption). Carcasses are composted with manure and used as fertilizer.

By the logic you’ve given here, you should have absolutely no issues with farmed animals (and I’m sure you probably own a few pieces from non-’natural’ death farmed animals as well), so long as they are treated well, given the appropriate care, are provided with enrichment, and are killed swiftly and humanely/without pain. There are many, many fur farms like this, and there are many people committed to sourcing their farmed furs from these places - including all of the sellers you added to your response to my original ask. I say all of this because from your original post, you would be saying that the places you yourself listed in your response are not ethical places to buy pelts from. These places do not specifically source their ranched items from animals that died of natural causes or illness, and therefore are selling pelts and parts from animals that were in fact farmed and killed specifically for their fur. As I said, carcasses are composted at most fur farms, so there still is no waste, but carcasses are not being used for food (with the one exception I mentioned, as well as fat from mink being used to create mink oil which can be used to soften/condition leather).

There absolutely are unethical fur farms where animals are treated horribly and where the carcasses are left to rot or sent to landfills. These farms are in fact where almost all tails and fur items from Amazon come from, and you are absolutely right to say that people shouldn’t buy from Amazon. These fur farms are in places where animal protection laws are in fact non-existent, such as China. But there are plenty of other fur farms that absolutely would fit your description of ethical fur. I want to make absolutely sure that you are aware that if you own pieces from ranched animals - unless the listing specifically stated that it was natural death or illness - those pieces do in fact come from animals that were killed specifically for their fur. Also I wanna make it super clear that I’m not like. Mad or anything, I’m just trying to be educational and make sure that you understand where your original post went wrong!

~Signed, a fellow therian with a major special interest in fur/taxidermy/vulture culture who has friends in the industry and who has been part of the industry '^^

I always appreciate correction. I did not mean to imply that I am against fur farms in my original post. I have no issue with the killing of animals if their is no waste which I’m aware that with some fur farms the carcasses are used. I tried to mention that in my later reply to someone that some mink farms have a great way to recycle the “leftovers”. I realize it sounded like I wasn’t aware of these things but I just mean to say I’m against tails sold on Amazon from fur farms in china or other countries with less strict regulation.

“Farmed minks manure, soiled straw bedding and carcasses are composted to produce organic fertilizers, to enrich the soil and produce more food, completing the agricultural nutrient cycle. Biofuels made from mink remains now power buses in Aarhus, Denmark, the world’s largest producer of farmed mink. Similar projects are being tested in North America.” Here’s a part of my original reply where I talk a bit about fur farms.

Sorry again that my original post seems as though I’m totally against fur farms. And thank you again for further explanation! I will always take the chance to learn and to spread helpful information to others so I really appreciate you checking me on what I was saying being someone who knows a lot about these topics!

I also do own 3 pelts that were farmed ethically.

[backyardbunnynews]

Could Rabbit Manure Revolutionize Your Compost? Unlock the hidden potential of your backyard bunnies with the power of rabbit manure. Often overlooked in favor of other animal waste, rabbit droppings are a gardener's secret weapon for supercharging compost. Packed with essential nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, these little pellets can transform your soil into a thriving oasis for plants. Their ability to speed up the composting process, thanks to beneficial microorganisms, makes them a valuable ally in creating nutrient-rich soil quickly and efficiently. Say goodbye to overpowering odors and cumbersome composting methods—rabbit manure is a game-changer for sustainable gardening practices. Embrace the unsung heroes of your yard and watch your garden flourish with the help of these adorable composting allies. https://backyardbunnynews.com/could-rabbit-manure-revolutionize-your-compost/?feed_id=8623&_unique_id=6716365644996

[justagric-blog]

Gardenera Professional Banana Tree Superfood Spray Mist for Home Gardening | Micro-Fungi Enriched Fertilizer Mist for Healthy Leaves & Growth | 18 Essential Vitamins & Minerals for Banana - 8oz

Price: (as of – Details) 🌿 EXPERIENCE NATURE’S BEST: Immerse your plants in the wonders of nature with the Gardenera Organic Superfood Spray Mist. This innovative mist brings you the essential goodness of organic superfood in a convenient and easy-to-use form.🌱 18 ESSENTIAL NUTRIENTS: Packed with 18 balanced super nutrients, including poultry litter, rabbit manure, bat guano, cricket fras, humic…

[chappythegardener]

How To Compost Rabbit Manure

Composting rabbit manure is a fantastic way to turn this nutrient-rich waste into valuable organic fertilizer for your garden. Follow these steps to compost rabbit manure effectively: Collection: Begin by collecting rabbit droppings from their cages or living area. Avoid mixing rabbit manure with bedding that contains cedar or other substances toxic to plants. Carbon Source: To create a balanced compost, you need a carbon-rich material. Use materials like straw, shredded newspaper, dried leaves, or hay as the bedding or carbon source. Mix the rabbit manure with the bedding to add the right amount of carbon. Compost Bin: Choose a compost bin or create a designated compost pile for the rabbit manure. Make sure the bin allows proper aeration to facilitate decomposition. Layering: Layer the rabbit manure with the carbon-rich material. Aim for a 2:1 ratio of bedding to manure. This ensures a good balance of carbon and nitrogen, promoting decomposition and preventing odors. Moisture: Moisten the compost pile to maintain the right moisture level, similar to a wrung-out sponge. Too much moisture may cause the compost to become waterlogged and anaerobic. Turning: Regularly turn the compost pile every 2-3 weeks to aerate it and speed up the decomposition process. This allows beneficial microorganisms to break down the organic matter effectively. Temperature: Compost should reach temperatures of 120-150°F (49-66°C) during the decomposition process. High temperatures help kill weed seeds and pathogens. Curing: After 4-6 months of composting, the rabbit manure should transform into dark, crumbly compost. Allow the compost to cure for a few weeks to ensure it's fully decomposed and safe to use. Storage: Store the finished compost in a covered container or compost bin until you're ready to use it. Application: Use the composted rabbit manure as a nutrient-rich organic fertilizer in your garden. Mix it into the soil or use it as a top dressing around plants. Compost Tea: You can also make compost tea by steeping the composted rabbit manure in water. This nutrient-rich liquid can be applied to your plants' leaves or soil for a quick nutrient boost. Safety Precautions: Always wash your hands after handling rabbit manure and avoid using fresh manure directly on edible crops. Composting the manure reduces the risk of potential pathogens. By following these steps, you can turn rabbit manure into a valuable resource that enriches your soil and enhances plant growth in your garden. Happy composting! 🐰🌿 https://gardenguide4all.com/how-to-compost-rabbit-manure/ Read the full article

[michellebill]

Managing Pests and Diseases in Your Home Garden: Organic Solutions and Prevention Strategies

Maintaining a healthy and thriving garden is a rewarding experience. However, pests and diseases can pose challenges to the success of your home garden. Fortunately, there are organic solutions and prevention strategies that can effectively manage these issues without resorting to harmful chemicals. In this detailed blog, we will explore popular methods to tackle pests and diseases in your garden using organic approaches. Let's get started!

Promote Healthy Soil:

Healthy soil is the foundation of a strong garden. By enriching your soil, you can create an environment that supports vigorous plant growth and naturally deters pests and diseases.

Test your soil to determine its nutrient levels and pH.

Amend the soil with organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure.

Maintain proper soil moisture and drainage.

Rotate crops each season to prevent the build-up of pests and diseases.

Companion Planting:

Strategic companion planting helps to repel pests, attract beneficial insects, and enhance the overall health of your garden.

Plant pest-repellent plants alongside vulnerable crops. For example, marigolds repel nematodes, and garlic deters aphids.

Attract beneficial insects, such as ladybugs and lacewings, by planting flowers like yarrow and dill.

Consider interplanting herbs like basil and rosemary, which can deter pests with their strong aromas.

Practice Crop Diversity:

Monocultures are more susceptible to pest and disease outbreaks. By diversifying your garden with a variety of plants, you create a natural defense system against specific pests and diseases.

Mix different plant species and varieties in your garden beds.

Avoid planting the same crop in the same location year after year.

Incorporate native plants, which are more resistant to local pests and diseases.

Implement Physical Barriers:

Physical barriers can be effective in preventing pests from reaching your plants and causing damage.

Use floating row covers to protect vulnerable seedlings and young plants from insects.

Install mesh or netting to deter birds, rabbits, and larger pests.

Create fences or plant borders of insect-repellent plants around your garden.

Natural Pest Control:

Several organic pest control methods can help manage insect populations in your garden.

Handpick larger pests, such as caterpillars or beetles, and drop them into a bucket of soapy water.

Introduce beneficial insects like ladybugs or praying mantises, which feed on garden pests.

Make organic insecticidal sprays using ingredients like neem oil, garlic, or soap.

Disease Prevention and Management:

To prevent and manage plant diseases, good gardening practices are crucial.

Practice proper watering techniques to avoid fungal diseases. Water at the base of plants and avoid overhead irrigation.

Remove and dispose of infected plant material promptly.

Apply organic fungicides, such as copper-based sprays, if necessary.

Regular Monitoring and Maintenance:

Regularly monitoring your garden allows you to identify and address pest and disease issues early on.

Inspect plants for signs of pests or diseases, such as holes in leaves or discolored patches.

Remove weeds, which can harbor pests and diseases.

Prune plants to improve airflow and reduce disease incidence.

[nim-lock]

tempted... to sell tiny bags of rabbit poop fertilizer....proceeds to go to extra vegetable snacks for bun :V

tbh this mostly just amuses me to be able to put “rabbit” as a supply

[sonxofxscars]

Having relatives that raise chickens and rabbits have been a unique introduction to what I’d call a simpler way of life. Almost every weekend, I head out of town to visit and help my in laws on their homestead. One of the things I have learned was how to raise rabbits although I don’t do it myself. But what I have taken from them and applied in my garden is their manure.  Rabbit manure is some of the best and most rich fertilizer you can obtain. It’s technically the highest concentrated fertilizer from an animal and I have noticed great benefits in my garden the past few seasons. If you’re planning on growing a garden and are open to using rabbit manure, I highly recommend it. Local farmers who raise rabbits may be available to help you out. 

[eacombslcc]

How to create a vermi-composter!

While we all know that the majority of climate change is caused by large companies such as the oil industry, it never hurts to begin living a more sustainable lifestyle to help in your own way. Composting is a great way to reduce you and/or your family's carbon footprint.

Unfortunately, large store-bought composters tend to be too pricey for most people. So, in just a few simple steps I'll teach you how to make a household composting bin for ~$5-$20.

What you'll need: -2 five gallon buckets, one with a lid. -A drill, or some means to poke holes through one of the buckets. -Newspaper and food scraps. -Worms, specifically red wigglers.

Step 1

Get your buckets! They're often available at bakeries for free or low cost. All else fails your local hardware stores should have them. Darker colors are better as the worms will want to hide from the light, but if white is the only color available, be sure to cover it with a tarp or towel when storing.

You're going to drill several holes in one of the bucket. These will act as a drainage system for any liquid while still holding in enough moisture to keep your worms comfortable. Once the holes are drilled, you can place that bucket inside the unholy one.

Step 2

Add a few handfuls of kitchen waste to the composter.

Step 3

Add your worms! You can usually get them by asking around your local farming community, or if your city has a classifieds website you can source them there. Don't worry about getting a ton, they'll reproduce with time!

Step 4

Shred some newspaper and wet it. Drain the excess water, then place it on top of your worms. Cover it and place it somewhere that stays consistently between 55-77 degrees F.

Don't overdo it on food scraps while the worms are getting established. Add 2-3 cups or so every couple of weeks.

What to feed your worms: -Leftover kitchen scraps such as fruit or veggie peels and egg shells. Go easy on the citrus, and bury any meat to avoid odors. -Coffee grounds, tea/tea bags, coffee filters. -Human hair or fur from animal grooming. No cat or dog poop, but bedding and manure from chickens, rabbits, and other farm animals are fine.

These castings are nutrient rich and great fertilizer for any house plants or gardens. If you yourself don't have any use for them, any local farmers or neighbors with gardens would make great use of them. All else fails, make an online post and sell them!

Happy composting :)

[chamomile-and-cotton]

Why I ❤️ Rabbit Shit

I love my bunnies. I also love plants and growing things. One of the (many!) benefits of being a bunny-loving gardener, is that your furry friends crap out gold-standard super fertiliser. Seriously:

-Rabbit manure has FOUR TIMES more nutrients than cow or horse manure

-Rabbit turds are little bombs of nitrogen. Higher than sheep, goat, chicken, cow or horse manure

-Also much higher in phosphorus- excellent for getting lots of big, gorgeous blooms on your flowers!

-Packed with potassium, minerals and micronutrients.

-Rabbit poo is a hot OR cold fertiliser. That means you can compost it, or put it straight in your soil. It doesn’t have to be rotted like cow, horse, chicken etc.

-Try burying a few poops around the roots of your favourite plants, or in your planters and raised beds. Tomatoes absolutely LOVE it.

-You can also use it to make rabbit crap tea - soak a big pile of poops in a bucket of water for a few days, stirring occasionally, then use that to water the roots of your plants. It stinks a bit though.

-For long-term benefits, you can add some bunny poops to your soil to improve the quality as they break down over time. As well as adding nutrients for your plants, it’ll improve the soil’s structure, improve porosity, add stability, and worms LOVE it.

-Speaking of worms - if you’ve got a compost heap, bunny poo is an absolutely stellar addition to that too. For all the reasons mentioned above.

-Safe to use on any plant - no risk of burning, unlike other types of compost.

[bumblebeeappletree]

Josh provides the lowdown on hot versus cold composting methods. Subscribe 🔔 http://ab.co/GA-subscribe

Composting is part of Josh’s life routine; he loves it so much he has both hot and cold composts on the go with multiple versions of each. He helps explain which method’s right for you.

Cold compost:

Cold compost is largely made up of kitchen scraps - the most regular type of organic matter most households produce.

Josh uses large open bottom bins, partially buried to keep out rodents and other pests. When it comes to position, Josh places his bins under his deciduous pear tree. It shades his compost from the heat in summer and when it loses its leaves in winter it allows the sun to warm the bins, keeping the microbes working.

While cold compost is relatively low maintenance and easy to manage, you must be patient, as it may take up to six months until it’s ready to use.

Josh’s recipe for cold compost:

Kitchen scraps are usually full of moisture and rich in nitrogen so it’s a good idea to balance that with a layer of fine brown organic material that is high in carbon.

Add a layer of any of one of these: wood shavings, dry leaves, even old toilet roles or paper that can also be used to line your scraps bucket. Microbes will breakdown the dry material as part of the decomposition process, but the added organic material also provides structure to the pile which is important for aeration. Air is important so the compost doesn’t become anaerobic, or sour, producing ‘stinky’ gases like methane and hydrogen sulphide.

The aim is to keep your compost ‘nice and sweet’ but if it does become sour and smelly you can lightly sprinkle some ordinary garden lime.

Next, give your compost a good forking, to open it up to get some air in so it remains aerobic. Josh does this every few weeks to help break things down.

He also has two compost bins on the go as one gets filled up the compost from the second is ready to go and can be emptied.

But something that cold compost can’t do is kill off weed seeds and plant diseases like powdery mildew, to do that you need to make hot compost.

Hot compost:

Hot compost is largely made up of garden clippings – they’re too valuable a resource to throw away. The decomposition of pruning and spent plant material are a source of carbon and nutrients to benefit your garden. Instead of throwing them away, you can reintroduce them to your garden as compost.

While Josh has used bins for his cold compost, he’s constructed bays consisting of a frame made of salvaged steel, some steel sheeting and timber including timber panels at the front for his hot compost - this helps keep things nice and contained and tidy.

Josh’s recipe for hot compost:

Gather all your clippings in one large batch of at least one cubic metre to get it nice and hot to give things a nice ‘cooking’. Then it’s just a matter of putting the right ingredients together gradually building up layers. Your layers of fresh leafy chopped up garden material are high in nitrogen and dry pruning’s are high in carbon.

- Add a 50 to 100mm layer of dried plant material like chopped up dried broad bean stems

- Sprinkle of pelletised poultry manure

- Spray some water

- Add some more green leafy pruning’s

- Add some soiled straw (Josh got his from his rabbit hatch)

- Add more pelletised manure

- Spray more water

The main thing to remember is to roughly use two-thirds fresh green material to one-third dry material and add manure for extra nitrogen and water to kick things off.

Josh uses two bays, allowing the first batch to ‘cook’ while the second bay is used to store more mature compost. Once the latter is empty he can transfer the first bay into the second empty bay and in doing that give it a second ‘cooking’ adding some extra moisture and manure and chopped fine greens to get the mix ‘just right’. This ‘second chance’ will get it hot again and hopefully kill off any weed seeds and plant pathogens.

Hot or cold compost - choose one which is right for you or like Josh, do both.

[optimisticobjectpeace]

what is vermicomposting

Vermicomposting or worm composting turns kitchen scraps into rich soil that smells and feels like earth. It is almost entirely made of worm castings and it is a kind of super compost. It's rich in nutrients and contains the microorganisms necessary to create and maintain healthy soil. Clemson University Extension lists these benefits in their article about worm composting.

Provides nutrients for the soil

Increases soil's ability hold nutrients in plant-available forms

Improves soil structure

Improves the drainage and aeration of clay soils.

Sand soils have a higher water retention capacity.

provides numerous beneficial bacteria

Vermicompost can be used to top-dress the most deserving and demanding plants, as it is usually only made in small quantities. It can be mixed with regular compost to give garden soil a boost. It can be mixed with potting soil to give plants a boost. Properly made vermicompost is mildly scented and suitable for indoor use.

vermicompost bed for vermicompost process

It's easy to turn table scraps into valuable vermicompost bed when you have the right supplies and worm bins. Planet Natural offers everything you need: worms and a container, as well as books to help you get started. Let's get rotten!

A worm bin generally requires little maintenance. Worms can be a low-maintenance household friend. They do not need to be fed daily, make no noise and only require their bins to be cleaned once every three to six month. These worms can be a great learning opportunity for children. They not only teach them biology, but also provide an environment lesson. It's not just good for the plants to compost with worms. It is also beneficial for the environment. It helps keep food waste and organic material out our trash and reduces the need for landfills. It's no surprise that it is encouraged by the state, county, or city municipalities who handle waste disposal and its costs in dollars as well as environmental damage. Spokane, Washington provides information (PDF) on worm composting to encourage residents to try it. Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada has a page on City Farmer News. It not only provides a how-to video but also provides worm bins for residents. You can even call the hotline to get composting information. California also has an interactive animated game that teaches vermicomposting basics and benefits. It's called The Adventures of Vermibed the Worm.

You will need to have worms, a container and bedding, in addition to the readily available kitchen scraps. Planet Natural has all you need for starting a composting garden.

Your family's kitchen waste will determine the size of your worm container and how many you can use. Keep track of how many suitable wastes you produce for at least a week to determine the size of your vermicomposting system.

vermicompost process

While "A worm, a worm, and a worm are a worm," may be a good summary of your thoughts, not all worms are created equal. You shouldn't use your garden-variety night creepers. To survive, they must worm their way through dirt and not eat organic waste. Many of the smaller worms that are found in your garden are not suitable. Lumbricus terrestris is the most common. L. terrestris, which is also adaptable, is a deep-soil dweller, while vermicomposting worms are litter-dwellers who do not require or want to dig more than a few feet.

Eisenia foetida worms are needed for composting. Also known as red wigglers or brandling worms, they can be found in the genus Eisenia foetida. E. foetida can eat up to its entire weight in garbage per day, will reproduce rapidly, and will survive many different feeding conditions. Composting bins will also be a good choice for Lumbricus rubellus, which are manure worms. You can be sure that your bin's worms will thrive and do the job you ask them to.

How many red wigglers do you need? Experts in vermiculture recommend a one to one ratio: one pound worms, roughly 1,000 worms to one pound garbage daily. Mary Appelhof is also the author of Worms Eat My Garbage. She recommends two pounds worth of worms per pound of garbage.

Another thing to remember is that worms multiply just like rabbits. It could be that worms multiply like rabbits! They can multiply every 90 days if they are given enough food and a home. It is possible to start slowly and get fewer worms that you need. The resulting worm population explosion can be overwhelming.

Bins

A good worm composting container is simple to use and highly efficient. There are many fine commercial bins that you can choose from.

The trays in a stacked worm box are used in succession. Each tray is placed on the next line after the previous one has filled up with compost. The trays are designed to allow worms to migrate up to the next level. Once they have finished with the current tray, they can take it out and empty it. Then, the new one can be placed at the top of each stack. It doesn't attract worms if it is empty. Worms will only move in if there is food waste.

Homemade bins

It is possible to make simple bins from wood or plastic. Because worms don't like light, it is important that the material is opaque. It is not necessary to have a tight fitting lid. Worms aren't likely to escape their quarters. Tight fitting lids cut-off ventilation. However, it is essential to have some kind of cover to protect from the sun and keep out moisture.

The size of your bin will depend on how many worms you have and how much garbage you want to recycle. There are a few structural rules that apply to all. First, worms need more floor space than they do head room. Commercial bins that appear tall are usually made up of multiple shallow trays, stacked on top one another. A bin that is only 12-18 inches (30-40cm) in depth should be sufficient for a single room. Drainage and ventilation are essential. These plans (PDF), are for a functional wooden bin made by the folks at Seattle Tilth. You can find more general ideas for bins, such as using a plastic storage container as a bin on this University of Nebraska Extension page.

Because worms are sensitive to light and noise, they often prefer a corner of the basement. They can survive in temperatures of 55-77 degrees F (13deg-25degC). Most basements will be suitable. It is possible to keep worms bins outdoors during summer, provided they are kept in shade. There are many ways to keep a bin of worms in your kitchen or living room. Bins can also be taken inside to keep warm during winter months in colder areas.

Bedding

#1 WORM BEDDING

Coconut Coir Brick

Coir Bricks

Alternative to peat that is more eco-friendly ProCoir can hold 8-9 times its weight of water.

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You will need to provide the right bedding for your worms. It should take up about one-third to one half of your bin. Remember that worms love water so their bedding should contain at least 75 percent water. You can make bedding from newspaper strips, shredded grocery bags, cardboard or egg cartons (no glossy papers), composted manure or old leaves, coconut cocoa coir or a combination of all of these materials. Make sure the material you use is safe for the worms. They will eat your table scraps as well as the bedding. You can use cardboard or paper to make your work easier. After separating the material into small pieces, wring them thoroughly. Bedding should be damp, but not wet.

Add a few handfuls of dirt and some crushed eggshells to half-fill the box. The dirt is roughage. You can also add a small amount of cornstarch or sand to the box. The eggshells are calcium. As you place the bedding in the bed, fluff it up. You need to provide a space for the worms to burrow. This will help keep insects and odors away.

Introduce the Worms

Once the bedding and bin are set, make a depression in the bedding and place the worms inside it. You can then leave the worms in the bedding with the lid closed or askew, and a low overhead light. They will burrow under the bedding if they are exposed to light. Allow the worms to adjust for at least a week before you feed them. Too soon and the food will rot and smell, which is not a good start for your new venture. Make sure you bury your food in the bedding, not just spread it on top. Leave them alone for at least a week. Then, check to see if they are eating, and adjust the quantities.

[kathryntballard]

Bio Fertilzier Know How Definition & Production

How to make bio organic fertilizer? What raw materials are included in the production of biological fertilizer; Let us know some relevant knowledge.

(1) There are many raw materials for the production of bio organic fertilizer, which can be divided into the following categories:

1. Agricultural wastes: such as straw, soybean meal, cotton aphid, etc. 2. Livestock manure: such as chicken manure, cattle, sheep, horse manure and rabbit manure; 3. Industrial wastes: such as distiller's grains, vinegar residue, cassava residue, sugar residue, furfural residue, etc; 4. Domestic waste: such as kitchen waste; 5. Urban sludge: such as river sludge, sewer sludge, etc.

How to turn these organic materials into bio fertilizer? Detailed info, welcome go to https://organicfertilizermachines.com/bio-organic-fertilizer-production-line/

(2) Characteristics of bio organic fertilizer

Ecological organic fertilizer has complete nutrients, which can improve the soil and improve the soil hardening caused by the use of chemical fertilizer. Improve soil physical and chemical properties and enhance soil water conservation, fertilizer conservation and fertilizer supply. Beneficial microorganisms in bio organic fertilizer enter the soil, form a symbiotic relationship with microorganisms in the soil, inhibit the growth of harmful bacteria into beneficial bacteria, interact, promote and play a synergistic role. Group.

(3) Common organic fertilizer raw materials

China has a vast territory, a large population and rich organic fertilizer resources. It can be said that where there is agriculture and animal husbandry, there are organic fertilizer raw materials. As a natural green fertilizer, bio organic fertilizer will serve the majority of agricultural production.

Equipment features: the particles produced by the fertilizer granulator are spherical, and the organic content can be as high as 100%, so as to realize pure organic granulation. Organic particles can be embedded with each other under a certain force without binder. Granulation. The particles are solid and can be sieved after granulation to reduce drilling energy consumption. The organic matter after fermentation does not need to be stuffy, and the water content of raw materials can reach 20-40%.

(4) Advantages of bio organic fertilizer

1. There is a kind of biology and enzyme in organic fertilizer granulation, which can enhance soil biology and enzyme activity, increase soil nutrient content, improve soil pH, and make the soil suitable for various agricultural growth.

2. The organic fertilizer produced by the organic fertilizer granulator is rich in nutrition. If it is placed evenly and no other fertilizer is added for at least 100 days, this effect can not be replaced by any fertilizer.

3. Organic fertilizer granulator can add disease and insect resistant drugs in the production process to increase the harm of diseases and insect pests.

4. The organic fertilizer granulator produces organic fertilizer nutrients. In addition to nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, it is also rich in calcium, magnesium and silicon, which changes the soil composition and is conducive to crop growth.

[vangoghs-other-ear]

Days of Nivôse

la tourbe- peat December 21st

la houille- black coal December 22nd

le soufre- sulfur December 23rd

le chien- dog December 24th

la lave- lava December 25

la terre végétale- soil that is rich in nutrients December 26th

le fumier- manure December 27th

le salpêtre- saltpeter December 28th

le fléau- flail (tool for harvesting) December 9th

le granit- granit December 30th

l’argile (f)- clay December 31st

l’ardoise (f)- slate January 1st

le grès- sandstone January 2nd

le lapin- rabbit January 3rd

le silex- flint January 4th

la marne- marl January 5th

le calcaire- limestone January 6th

le marbre- marble January 7th

le van- winnowing fork January 8th

la pierre à plâtre- plaster of paris January 9th

le sel- salt January 10th

le fer- iron January 11th

le cuivre- copper January 12th

le chat- cat January 13th

l’étain (m)- tin January 14th

le plomb- lead January 15th

le zinc- zinc January 16th

le mercure- mercury January 17th

le crible- sieve January 18th