#prusaslicer

[emichen88]

“Sunset Bros” project is off to an amazing start! This was the test scale print @powerauerart did of Raph and it’s truly a beast. Photo from Meghan too

[de3dprintman]

My coffee just got even better. I received this cool PrusaSlicer mug from my friends over at Prusa Research as a late Christmas present and I love it. I do collect every bit of merchandise but this mug was still missing. Thank you team @josefprusa! 🧡 Do you love this mug as much as me? You can grab one (or two) from the Official Prusa3D Webshop via http://www.prusa3d.com/#a_aid=De3DPrintman or press the link in the story. #3dprinting #3dprintingcommunity #3dprinter #3dprinted #3dprint #3dp #3d #prusa #prusa3d #prusaresearch #prusaprinters #prusament #prusamini #prusai3mk3s #prusaxl #prusaslicer #prusasl1s #josefprusa #opensource #opensourcehardware #additive #de3dprintman (at Leiderdorp) https://www.instagram.com/p/Cn4MBl1Nbjn/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

[tequitoclown]

Thanks, I hate Prusa Clippy.

[dinosaurcharcuterie]

Okay, so firstly, I'm assuming you have access to a 3D printer or a 3D printing service. My chosen MO when my printer is on the fritz is "mooching off others, mainly my brother" but we have a maker lab an hour's drive away if I need something larger. This would be a project that is too large for my printer, assuming an adult human head.

Secondly, you need a slicer that lets you mess around with models and add basic shapes. I use Prusaslicer, because it came with my printer, and anyone can download it for free. I'm gonna overexplain this as if you have a basic grasp of windows-style software, a sixth grade reading level, and have otherwise no other experience using this software. (aka. as if you're my mom)

Thirdly, we are working smart, not hard on this. Plenty of people have made skull models. www.thangs.com is your friend for cross-platform model searches. I went with this one because a) it has that slightly open jaw that was requested and b) it was popular around Halloween, so it is one that is possible to print. Will it still be after we mess with it? That's a different question.

Tutorial on how to do this behind a break, because it's 15 pages in Word.

First, open your model in your slicer. As you can see, this one doesn't fit my print bed. I'm not printing it, so... Eh. It usually comes out centered all by itself, so we don't need to mess with anything, either.

Next, we need what Prusaslicer calls the Shape Gallery. Pick a sphere and click "Add to Bed"

Select Sphere. Then press the little padlock in the menu called "Object Manipulation". Now mess with the values behind "Size [World]:" until your sphere is the shape you want your bowl to be, and roughly twice as deep.

While you're there: change the values under X and Y for "Position" to be the same as for your skull. This centers both objects on top of each other.

Now select both your Sphere and your Skull model at the same time, right click and choose "Merge". This lets you manipulate the Sphere further.

We need that Sphere to become a bowl. In the Name menu, right click the Sphere (just the sphere) and choose "Change Type". Pick "Negative Volume". This should turn the Sphere model transoarent.

Back to the Object Manipulation menu, which is now called Part Manipulation. With only the Sphere selected, adjust the Z position until half of the Sphere is poking out of the Skull. Then mess with this and the Y position until you have that dimple exactly where you want it.

At this point, it's smart to press that tempting "Slice Now" button to check where you are. (At this point, I resized the merged project to 80% to make it fit my print plate -- this button doesn't work if you're trying to print something larger than your print volume.) It wasn't even fully done slicing when I noticed that this might be a bit too ambitious for a key bowl. But filling an entire model with plastic is expensive and tedious, so let's McGyver a solution.

Hit Ctrl+5 to go back to the place where change is possible. Copy paste your Sphere, change Type to "Part" and adjust the Z position until it's juuuust peeking out from the Skull, basically flush again. Press "Slice Now" to re-check your progress.

Dear reader, we have a dimple.

Next up, a way for glasses to stay put. You need an outcropping on the side of this stand if you wear glasses that were not adjusted to be worn without ears. I took a side profile selfie and based it on where the legs of my glasses usually sit. It seems to be just underneath this handy dandy curved seam on the model.

The next Shape Gallery we need is a Cylinder.

Back in the Object Manipulation menu, we rotate it 90° on the X axis, then mess with the proportions. I started out by making the real world X value slightly larger on the Cylinder than the Skull. (Reminder: my model is tiny, my values are meaningless)

You don't need it to be tall, so you can make the real world Z a lot smaller. You do need it wide, so see what Y value gives off good vibes. Again, merge with the Skull.

Again, adjust your Cylinder's Z position. This time, aim for just underneath where your glasses' legs are, as was figured out with that red line earlier.

Turn your model to see how it looks, adjust the dimensions if necessary. My X value looked way too big, so I shrunk it down a little.

Check with the "Slice Now" button if you've messed up in an obvious way. If not: Ridge! (Note: you can also achieve this by manipulating one or more different basic shapes, depending on the look you're going for.

Next up: the stand. I'm going to make that as a seperate object, because it lowers the material wasted if I goof up on either the skull or the stand. This is the most freeform part of this project.

Pick a shape for your base from the Shape Gallery. (Or import an STL with a shape that pleases you better.) I like the M3 Hex Nut. It's not too blocky, you just need to mess with the size a bit to make it look at home on someone's hallway cabinet. Position it underneath the hole of your skull, keeping the X position the same to keep it centered.

Next, pick another shape for the pillar of the stand. I went with Box. Copy the X and Y position of your base to center the two.

Mess with your pillar's dimensions until it goes into and through the hole at the base of the skull without touching it.

Merge your base and pillar (Here: Hex Nut and Box) to complete your stand. Do not merge with your Skull project unless you want it all to be one piece.

Side note: see those eye icons? They let you include or exclude files for slicing. Meaning you can make the print file for the stand and the print file for the skull by toggling them on or off, without having to export this project's objects as STL's and re-insert them into a seperate slicer instance. For now, ignore them and just press "Slice Now" again to check for whoopsies.

Nope, that looks just about like what it should be. Now you can adjust the proportions to fit that hat, add supports, tweak the print settings to whatever filament you prefer and whatever the Printing Gods approve of for your printer, and print it.

Looks like my basic settings would require 27+ hours and about 300 g of PLA... Without supports.

I've not hit the image limit yet, so lets add organic supports (because those come off easiest for me) everywhere the slicer thinks it needs them, just for the nightmare fuel image. We're looking at 47 hrs/ 400 g for the skull and 2 hrs/ 26 g for the stand. Again: This version would maybe fit a toddler's head. Maybe.

Congrats, you now know how to mess around with an STL you found that just needs some basic shapes added/gouged out to suit your needs.

Go use your newfound powers to confuse someone.

Things I would make if I had the skill, or would commission if I had the money: A decorative skull on a stand, maybe to rest on a cupboard by the side of the front door. Besides being a key bowl, it has other uses. Here's an illustration of it while it's not being used, when I'm out of the house:

And this is what it would look like when I'm at home:

[3d-print-stick]

"What did the 3D Model say to the Print Bed on Valentine’s Day?" "I’m stuck on you!"

Happy Valentines Day from 3D Print Stick XL!

- SAVE 50% TODAY ONLY!!! - CODE: VDAY23 - 3DPrintStick.com

[k00214627]

On Monday I did the 3D Printing workshop. As Blender wasn't available in the computer lab, I had to use Rhino 6, which was very difficult to use. I managed to cut letters and a design out of the keyring, but the action was difficult to repeat, as such it has little relevance to the project. I will be sticking to Blender, as I have experience with it and it tends to work more consistently. I was able to set up the 3D print file in PrusaSlicer and adjust the infill level, which can be seen as a lattice pattern in the keyring.

I created a railroad switch in Blender, with the help of Illustrator for the template and a guide for laser cutting the railroad sleepers. In Blender I used paths and bevel geometry to achieve a uniform look across the rails. This was my second attempt at the exercise as I did not pay attention to scaling, rendering each rail a totally random size. I hope to print, cut and assemble these into a diorama.

[k00292355]

3D Print Intro Workshop: 24/10

Today I went to the Intro to 3D print workshop. We were introduced to scanning objects into 3D software and exporting it to PrusaSlicer for it to be printed.

The lecturer demonstrated how the scanning process works by scanning the face. Then she edited the model and exported it into PrusaSlicer.

From there she arranged the 3D model for print giving it supports and a brim to ensure the print came out right. She also slightly angled it, as it prints better that way.

She then brought us over to the 3D printers and introduced us to the functions, and how to change the filament. She also showed us how to use the resin 3D printers as well.

This is the finished product from the 3D print.

For the intermediate workshop, the lecturer instructed us to have a 3D model or an object to scan, so we can print them.

[k00288674]

3D printing workshop 09/10/23

I had my first work shop today, 3D printing with lecturer Ann Dilleen in the maker station room!

I was quite nervous going in, as I have never done anything like it before and I would not be the brightest when it comes to computers.

But I feel I surprised myself!

We started off by going to a computer room and using the software Rhino 6, to create key rings.

It was hard at first to follow what she was instructing, but it slowly became easier.

Back in maker station room, Ann showed us the Prusaslice software and the printers. She demonstrated how to use the 3D scanner too, which can be used for body parts.

We finished up the workshop after this.

Before I left, I spoke to Ann about creating a bra model, as this relates to my project. She gave me advice and I went back to the computer room to try it out.

I used an image from the internet and traced over it. It is not perfectly done but I still feel great for trying!

I created a mini piano keyboard too.

I'm excited to use my new knowledge to create work for the disrupt project!

I plan to create a bra and piano mash up model soon.

EDIT 11/10/23: I have moved a bit too far ahead, and I will be pausing further work on the bra. I will try to just focus on the main idea, the piano itself.

[dinosaurcharcuterie]

Adding on to the library thing: to print a thing, it needs to be first sliced and turned into a gcode file.

If you can't do this at your library, PrusaSlicer is free and has many standard printer and filament settings preloaded. The newest versions need you to turn off binary gcode for it to work on all printers, but that's ticking a box in the settings.

[e2dtw]

在PrusaSlicer設定E2D Printer: 一步一步詳細設定教學

首先下載 PrusaSlicer-2.8.0+win64-E2D.tw解壓縮後在執行目錄底下的 prusa-slicer.exe 應用程式.首次執行會先進入到 配置嚮導 的設置精靈頁面中. 配置嚮導 Continue reading 在PrusaSlicer設定E2D Printer: 一步一步詳細設定教學

[e2d-tw]

在PrusaSlicer設定E2D Printer: 一步一步詳細設定教學

首先下載 PrusaSlicer-2.8.0+win64-E2D.tw解壓縮後在執行目錄底下的 prusa-slicer.exe 應用程式.首次執行會先進入到 配置嚮導 的設置精靈頁面中. 配置嚮導 Continue reading 在PrusaSlicer設定E2D Printer: 一步一步詳細設定教學

[de3dprintman]

A beautiful 3D printed chess set like the one from SteedMaker can't be stored away in a box somewhere. It's just too good looking so luckily SteedMaker also designed this beautiful Chess Piece or Ornament Stand. Both are printed on the Prusa i3 MK3S+ by @josefprusa in 0.1mm layers in @halo3dfilaments by @plasticznetherlands. Stunning material for these organic models. You can find the model on @printablescom via https://www.printables.com/model/200264-chess-or-ornament-stand #3dprinting #3dprintingisawesome #3dprintingvirals #3dprinter #3dprinted #3dprint #3dp #3dmodel #3dcad #blender #josefprusa #prusa3d #prusai3mk3s #prusaslicer #printablescom #plasticznl #halo3dfilaments #steedmaker #e3d #tech #technology #de3dprintman (at Leiderdorp) https://www.instagram.com/p/CnktxILtDhN/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

[nissart3d]

Configurer la Résine des Imprimantes SLA sur les Slicers L'impression 3D par stéréolithographie (SLA) est une méthode populaire pour obtenir des objets avec une précision et une finition de surface élevées. Un des éléments clés pour réussir vos impressions SLA est le paramétrage correct de la résine sur les slicers. Ce tutoriel vous guidera à travers les étapes nécessaires pour configurer correctement la résine de votre imprimante SLA dans le slicer. Ce guide est optimisé pour les mots-clés imprimante 3D, impression 3D, modélisation 3D, tutoriel, réglage imprimante 3D, slicer, SLA, résine. Pourquoi le Paramétrage de la Résine est Important Adhérence au Plateau : Une résine correctement paramétrée assure une bonne adhérence au plateau d'impression. Précision et Détail : Les paramètres de résine influencent la précision des détails et la résolution de l'impression. Durabilité et Finition : Des réglages optimaux garantissent une meilleure durabilité et une finition de surface de haute qualité. Matériel Nécessaire Votre imprimante 3D SLA Une résine adaptée à votre imprimante Un logiciel de slicing compatible (par exemple, ChiTuBox, PrusaSlicer, FormWare) Étapes pour Régler la Résine dans le Slicer 1. Sélection de la Résine Choisir la Résine : Assurez-vous d'utiliser une résine compatible avec votre imprimante SLA. Les fabricants de résine fournissent généralement des profils de réglage recommandés pour différentes marques et types de résines. 2. Configuration Initiale du Slicer Ouvrir le Slicer : Lancez votre logiciel de slicing (ChiTuBox, PrusaSlicer, etc.). Créer un Nouveau Profil : Si vous n'avez pas encore de profil de résine pour votre imprimante, créez-en un nouveau. Choisissez le modèle exact de votre imprimante et la marque de la résine que vous utilisez. 3. Paramètres de Base Épaisseur de la Couche (Layer Height) : La hauteur de couche influence la résolution et la qualité de l'impression. Pour les impressions détaillées, choisissez une hauteur de couche de 0,05 mm. Pour des impressions plus rapides, vous pouvez utiliser 0,1 mm. Temps d'Exposition (Exposure Time) : Le temps d'exposition est crucial pour la solidification correcte de la résine. Consultez les recommandations du fabricant de la résine. Par exemple, pour une résine standard, le temps d'exposition peut être de 8 à 10 secondes par couche. Temps d'Exposition de la Première Couche (Bottom Layer Exposure Time) : Les premières couches nécessitent généralement un temps d'exposition plus long pour assurer une bonne adhérence au plateau. Ce temps peut être 5 à 10 fois plus long que le temps d'exposition normal. 4. Paramètres Avancés Nombre de Couches de Base (Bottom Layers) : Réglez le nombre de couches de base (souvent entre 4 et 8 couches) pour assurer une bonne adhérence. Retraction Settings : Ajustez la rétraction pour éviter les bavures et améliorer la finition. Les paramètres courants incluent une distance de rétraction de 5 mm et une vitesse de rétraction de 40 mm/s. Vitesse de Levée (Lift Speed) : La vitesse à laquelle le plateau se soulève entre les couches. Une vitesse trop rapide peut provoquer des déformations. Une vitesse de 3 mm/s est souvent une bonne référence. 5. Sauvegarde et Test Sauvegarder le Profil : Une fois tous les paramètres réglés, sauvegardez le profil de résine dans le slicer. Impression de Test : Effectuez une impression de test pour vérifier les paramètres. Choisissez un modèle simple avec des détails fins pour évaluer la qualité de l'impression. 6. Ajustements Finaux Analyse des Résultats : Examinez l'impression de test pour identifier les problèmes potentiels comme les déformations, les couches non adhérentes ou les bavures. Affiner les Paramètres : Ajustez les paramètres du slicer en fonction des résultats de l'impression de test. Par exemple, si les couches ne collent pas bien, augmentez légèrement le temps d'exposition. Conseils Supplémentaires

Documentation et Recommandations : Toujours consulter la documentation et les recommandations spécifiques du fabricant de la résine et de l'imprimante pour des réglages optimaux. Communautés et Forums : Rejoignez des communautés en ligne et des forums spécialisés en impression 3D SLA pour échanger des conseils et des expériences avec d'autres utilisateurs. Entretien Régulier : Assurez-vous que le plateau d'impression et le bac de résine sont propres et bien entretenus pour des résultats constants. Conclusion Le paramétrage correct de la résine est essentiel pour obtenir des impressions 3D de haute qualité avec votre imprimante SLA. En suivant ce tutoriel, vous pourrez configurer les paramètres de votre résine de manière optimale dans votre slicer, garantissant ainsi des impressions précises et durables. Pour plus de conseils et de tutoriels sur l'impression 3D, la modélisation 3D, et le réglage de votre imprimante 3D, explorez les autres sections de notre site web.

[mintcad]

Why Mintcad Created Its Own 3D Printing Slicer?

3D printing has revolutionized the engineering industry as it reduces production time, increasing the opportunities for innovation. Your digitally created Computer Aided Designs turn into real, physical products with a 3D printer.  

But do you know how your CAD software communicates with a 3D printer or how the files stored locally are sent to your 3D printer? Machines understand only the machine language and hence you need some coded instructions commanding the 3D printer to print your 3D printable models. You need an intermediate communicating tool which is a slicing software. 

Slicing software gets the digital file from the CAD software and accordingly instructs the 3D printer on how to print the design to obtain the intended output. To better understand this, let’s picture you’re on a business trip to a foreign country but do not know their native language. This makes it difficult for you to communicate with the locals of that place and get your work done. So, you seek the help of a local person who understands both your language and the natively spoken one, thereby communicating your message to the people there and getting your work done. Slicing software is analogous to that intermediator who translates your message to the locals. 

Let’s look over how a 3D printing Slicer works and how it’s a crucial asset to a 3D printing platform or a 3D printable NFT marketplace.

What is a Slicing Software?

A slicing software is a crucial tool in the world of 3D printing. Technically speaking, the 3D printing slicer converts the STL file (Stereolithography or Standard Tessellation Language) into the G-code that commands the printer. It takes 3D printable models, formats like a .STL or .OBJ from a CAD software, and breaks it down into individual layers, much like slicing a loaf of bread.  

These layers are then translated into vector instructions for the 3D printer, guiding it on how to build the object layer by layer. The software determines factors such as layer thickness, print speed, and support structures, ensuring that the final printed object matches the digital design. In essence, a slicer serves as the bridge between the digital design and the physical creation, making 3D printing possible.  

There are many 3D printing slicing softwares available in the market including both free and paid versions. Cura, PrusaSlicer, Simplify3D and Slic3r are a few commonly used best 3D printer slicer softwares.  

Mintcad comes integrated with our own homemade 3D printing slicer that makes it easy for people to slice the NFTs and make them print ready. Our proprietary slicing software Jullienne is free to use and is compatible with all types of 3D printers available in the market.

Parts of a Slicer Software

The slicing software has two major front end and back-end components i.e., the GUI and the logical algorithmic component respectively. 

Front-End GUI

The Graphical User Interface component of the slicer is the one that helps the user to visualize the design and interact with the software. You can move, scale, rotate and change the settings for your 3D digital model. 

Here you can view the complex 3D models into their layers.

Back-End Logic

The back end of the slicer converts the digital file and automatically generates the geometric code or the G-code which gives the necessary instruction to execute the print option. 

Post the G-code generation, the slicing algorithm follows the geometric instructions and slices the 3D model into its 2D slices. 

How Does Our 3D Printer Slicer Software - Jullienne Work?

You must first purchase a print from the many 3D printable NFTs that are listed on Mintcad. Learn how to buy a single print.

Once your purchased print is loaded onto our slicer the model is sliced into G-code layers that can be viewed in different anatomical directions - the coronal, axial, and sagittal planes. 

Each slice is individually sent for the print operation.

Technically, the slicer converts the .STL file into a G-code that includes step by step instruction for the 3D printer on how to print. 

The 3D printing is done in layers where each layer sits on another supporting layer below. However, if there are any hanging layers you can add an external supporting layer using the graphical elements like skirt, brim and raft.

You can add a single outline known as skirt surrounding the object on the print bed without actually touching the object.    

A brim made of a few concentric layers gets attached to the edges of the 3D model and extend from the print bed. It keeps the print in place preventing warping while the printer works on the part. 

A 3D printing support raft is a bit wider than the first layer of the print and placed beneath the object to print. It functions as the base support of the print. 

All three graphical elements are easily detachable and hence the output print is an exact replica of the input file.

You can further set various print settings like the layer heights, infill percent, speed of printing, optimized print path, temperature of the extruder, filament diameter, nozzle diameter, print bed shape, etc.

Finally, you can connect it to your 3D printer and start printing.

Why Choose Mintcad’s Jullienne Slicer Software?

Mintcad is a holistic niche NFT marketplace where you can mint NFTs for your CAD files, sell your NFTs and also allow people to print it for a one-time fee. Printing an NFT or a digital 3D model requires connecting to a slicer software as an intermediary step. Instead of hunting for an external slicing software, you can get the work done on the Mintcad platform itself and for free of cost. 

Here are a few reasons why Jullienne stands out as a good 3D printing slicing software:

i) Protecting Your Intellectual Property:

JULLIENNE ensures that your 3D NFT models don't need to be downloaded, allowing you to make money without sacrificing your intellectual property. This feature safeguards your creations and empowers you to profit while maintaining control over your digital assets.

ii) Supports 3D Printable NFTs:

Jullienne steps into the future by supporting 3D printable NFTs. Whether you've just acquired a Mintcad NFT or paid for a one-time print, load the file onto our slicer, and effortlessly send print commands remotely. Monitor your masterpiece in the making from anywhere.

iii) Customizable - Add Your Own Printer:

Tailor Jullienne to fit your 3D printing arsenal. While it's already prepped for most printer configurations, you have the power to add any custom printer to your toolkit, ensuring compatibility with your unique printing setup.

iv) Project Management - Never Lose Your Prints:

Bid farewell to the fear of losing print settings. Jullienne is your project vault, securely storing all your print data. Easily revisit settings, review past prints, and learn from each project, ensuring every print is a masterpiece.

v) G-code Playback - See Your Print in Action:

Witness your creation come to life with Jullienne's integrated layer playback. Visualize each layer's printing process, offering endless opportunities for optimization. See the magic unfold before your eyes, layer by layer.

vi) Access Anytime, Anywhere:

Embrace flexibility with Jullienne's browser-based app, granting you access to your files from any computer with just your login credentials. Your 3D printing projects are at your fingertips, anytime and anywhere.

vii) Real-Time Updates Without Additional Packages:

Stay informed with Jullienne's real-time updates, all without the hassle of installing extra packages. Receive notifications and insights as your prints progress, ensuring a smooth and informed 3D printing experience.

viii) Cross-Platform Compatible:

Experience Jullienne's versatility across browsers. Whether you prefer Chrome, Firefox, Safari, or Microsoft Edge, access your slicer effortlessly, breaking down platform barriers for a unified user experience.

ix) Free Of Cost  

You do not need to burn a hole in your pocket to get your digital 3D model converted into a format that your 3D printer can print. You can easily and quickly do it via Mintcad’s proprietary Jullienne slicing software at free of cost.

x) User-Friendly UI/UX:

Experience an intuitive journey with Jullienne’s user-friendly interface. Navigating through your 3D printing projects becomes a breeze, making the entire process seamless and enjoyable for users of all levels.

Conclusion

A 3D printing slicer software serves as a great asset in getting your NFTs printed by converting the digital NFTs into printer understandable g-codes. Mintcad is a pioneer in integrating a proprietary slicing software into the NFT 3D printing platform making the entire process a breeze for the end users. Explore Mintcad’s slicing software Jullienne and print out some cool stuff today.

This content is originally published on Mintcad's Website: Why Mintcad Created Its Own 3D Printing Slicer?

[1spark1-blog]

Reindeer Husky!

One of my best multi color prints so far! I promise my dog was only annoyed for a moment with these reindeer antlers on XD It uses 4 colors, with a total time of about 6 ish hours to print! I'm getting the hang of the process! It is a bit lengthy, but I'd love to integrate these into some final products down the line! While they're cool on their own, it needs to be part of something to really make it POP This is the first multi color print that successfully uses the PrusaSlicer without massively under-extruding on the Top,, bottom, and infill lines. I think I was just trying to get my machine to run way too fast(Snapmaker 2.0 at 80mm/s print speed.) To remedy this without intensive tuning, I took advantage of a really cool setting in Prusaslicer called Maximum Volumetric speed. Setting this correctly, while setting all your printing speeds to 0 will allow the slicer to automatically create efficient speeds that are fast while maintaining constant nozzle pressure using the maximum volumetric speed as a constraint., It worked BEAUTIFULLY. Turns out my recommended printing speeds are around 30-40mm/s instead of the 70-90mm/s I was pushing my printer to. Youch. Someone get me a voron printer lol. Want one of those fast bois.

Posted using PostyBirb

[k00299539]

Disrupt Project Week 9 - More 3D Printing

Above: A comparison between the 3D prints and the animation frames they originated from.

More stuff I forgot to upload on the tumblr basically. The whole reason I made that 3D animation in Blender a few weeks back was to use a basis for 3D printing. I wanted a series of prints showing the model in snapshots as it melts. In particular I tried to capture a sense of motion in the figure as it turns to liquid.

After all the photocopy effect stuff, this was more a return to the self destruction theme of disrupt.

Above: A couple of shots showing the 3D printer and the PrusaSlicer software. The technical challenge of learning how the machines even operate was the biggest hurdle for me on this particular project.

Watching the figure slowly form on the printer bed was really cool, if I had the time I'd have liked to capture a timelapse of that.

Above: The models fresh out of the printer. I actually cheated a bit on the scale here compared to the animation. The first two were scaled up 450%, but the last one was less than 300%. This was done because it literally couldn't fit on the printer bed were it any bigger. I made the executive decision that near enough was good enough.

Above: You can notice in a number of these shots that the first model was printed in two halves. This was done based on advice from Jose, as it wouldn't require any supports and print cleaner. This was like divine providence to me cause the original clay model this print was based off also had to be split in two for practical purposes.

...Maybe that's not as interesting to anyone but me. I'll post some comparison photos between them in another entry.

Above: Some more photos I guess...