#proper fitting of PPE

[howdoesone]

How does one ensure proper infection control practices in emergency medical services?

Infection control is a critical aspect of providing safe and effective care in the field of emergency medical services (EMS). EMS professionals encounter various infectious diseases and must take proactive measures to prevent the spread of infections to patients, themselves, and the community. This article will discuss essential steps and strategies to ensure proper infection control practices in…

[athenasdragon]

Do it* scared

*emailing the freezer repository you're going to work in to make sure they have coveralls that actually fit you because if you ignore the issue you might show up and find that your ass doesn't fit any of the men's PPE they have

EDIT: email sent!!!!!

[swampgallows]

There is more COVID-19 transmission today (January 2024) than during 94.7% of the pandemic.

💉 Please get the updated (new, not a booster) Covid vaccine. If you're in the US, ask your local pharmacy about the Bridge Access Program for free vaccines. You can also search vaccines.gov then select Bridge Access Program participant.

If you do not want an mRNA vaccine for whatever reason, consider Novavax: it is protein-based like other typical vaccines from the last few decades, and many (including myself) report minimal side effects. Talk to your doctor if you have questions or concerns.

😷 Wear a mask in public and/or any enclosed areas. "Mask" means a respirator of KN95/N95 filtration or higher, not a cloth or surgical (blue) mask. Covid is airborne, so an airtight seal and particulate filter is necessary for protection. Different kinds of respirators are used for everything from toxic fumes to asbestos removal; when worn properly, they greatly reduce risk.

Here is a guide for proper use and fitting of a respiratory mask.

Here is a short video by 3M (respirator manufacturer) on the importance of fit-testing.

🧪 Have tests ready. With the new variants it can sometimes take 5-8 days to test positive, so be sure to test twice, 48 hours apart. If you're in the US, you can get 4 free rapid tests sent to your home through USPS. Local schools and libraries also may have free rapid tests. If you qualify for the Test to Treat program, you can receive free at-home NAAT tests and treatment for both flu AND Covid, and access to telehealth. The earlier you test positive, the more likely you will be eligible for treatment with Paxlovid.

🔁 If you can afford it, air purifiers and HEPA filters can help reduce transmission. Making a Corsi-Rosenthal box is simple and inexpensive. If weather permits, keeping windows open helps. Ventilation allows fresh air to circulate.

👃 Nasal sprays and CPC mouthwash are other useful prophylactic measures when used in conjunction with PPE and other modes of mitigation like masking and distancing.

🚬There is still a risk of Covid when outside, similar to exposure from secondhand smoke or a fire. Since Covid is spread through aerosols, it can hang in the air like smoke.

🐶 As with other coronaviruses, many household pets can get Covid. If you have been exposed, avoid contact with animals.

"But I'm not old or weak. Why should I care?"

☣ Covid can still kill you or disable you for life, even if your initial sickness is "mild". Even if you are young and have no preexisting conditions. 90% of the original "long haulers" had "mild" cases.

🩺 Covid increases your risk of stroke, blood clots, and heart disease by 2 to 5 times within a year of infection. It can also cause brain damage, which is part of the loss of taste and smell and cognitive symptoms like brain fog.

🩸 Covid is able to infect multiple organ systems because it travels through the bloodstream and attacks the mitochondria, leading to dysfunction and chronic fatigue.

⚠ Reinfection doesn't make your body better at fighting Covid; it just does more damage to your immune system, akin to HIV. A damaged immune system is worse at fighting off illness, more susceptible to infection, and can lead to serious complications like pneumonia. And with every reinfection, your chances of developing Long Covid increase. Therefore, the best protection for your immune system is to avoid getting Covid as much as possible.

I know everyone is tired of this. But if there was any time to be vigilant, it is now. Please, let's protect each other.

[erythriina]

Crozier: Stage manager. Runs an extremely tight ship; rehearsals start and end on time, and woe betide you if you show up late. Suffers no fools, especially when it comes to safety. Fell in love with theatre as a young kid, but became jaded after years of running into educational, financial, ‘who do you know’ barriers and dealing with the kind of bigots and assholes you only get in this industry.

Fitzjames: Originally Franklin’s AD, but is officially promoted to director when Franklin has to step down for health reasons. Used to be an actor—and a pretty good one!—but moved to directing because it seemed more prestigious and respectable. In the end, he wouldn’t choose to go back, but he will twist your ear with stories of his time trodding the boards. Studied on scholarship, does everything possible to keep this a secret.

( I went back on forth on switching these two roles, with Crozier as director and Fitzjames as SM, because in canon Crozier technically outranks JFJ. In the end though I think this is more fitting, since JFJ and Franklin may have big ideas, but Crozier is the one with his head firmly in the reality of the situation; as the SM and as Franklin’s canon second, his job (whether he gets to do it or not) is to reign him in, to make sure what he wants to happen is both feasible and safe. )

Blanky: Production manager. His job is to get the things necessary for JFJ and Crozier to do their jobs. He and Crozier have worked together for years and are a tight unit.

Little: Originally the technical director, (essentially the head of the scenic department: lights, sound, set, costumes, props). Becomes official AD when JFJ becomes official director. Briefly enjoys a stint as acting stage manager in Crozier’s stead, and by ‘enjoys’ I mean he hated every moment of it.

Jopson: Wardrobe head. Woe unto anyone who eats in costume. He and Crozier have worked together before—they come as a pair—so he becomes the unofficial liaison bw Crozier and the rest of the prod team (it’s a “dad likes you best” sort of situation). Crozier eventually asks him to become acting ASM (they didn’t have one before; Franklin didn’t think it was necessary). Did some acting as a kid/teen, but prefers production; if you hound him enough when he’s in a good mood, he will, after a long sigh, perform the most perfect triple time step you’ve ever seen.

Hodgson: Dramaturg and I won’t elaborate. Is also the fight captain when it’s called for, and is extremely good at it; he’s great at teaching one-on-one and encouraging the actors while still prioritizing safety, and his flair for the dramatic lends itself incredibly well to choreographing fights. He does, however, tend to lose it and make poor decisions when given any more solo responsibility than that.

Irving: Scenographer, in charge of the overall design of the production. Stressed out 24/7. Keeps absolutely pristine and lovingly detailed piece lists, is very good with the maths for measurements. Seems too uptight for such a creative job, but in actuality is very creative, just also very shy.

Tozer: Master carpenter. He didn’t start as master carp, but his superiors kept leaving and now he has more responsibility than he expected. Outwardly seems like he doesn’t give much of a fuck, but takes pride in his work. Main operator of the power tools; will box your ears if he catches you using them without proper PPE.

Hickey: Just kind of hangs around the scene shop most of the time. Presumably he’s in charge of gluing various bits of wood together, or something. Irving once caught him hooking up with his boyfriend behind the wall of old plywood backgrounds. Later, when Irving has an ‘accident’ one night whilst working late alone in the shop, Hickey is somehow the first on the scene…

Peglar: Master electrician, head of lights and sound. Doesn’t get to do it often, but adores operating the theater’s single spotlight (getting to it involves some climbing that OSHA would not approve of). Can untangle a mass of wires faster than anyone else and knows what each and every one of them goes to. Closest he ever got to performance was dipping his toe into standup comedy (iykyk. sorry honey you fit the type)

Silna: Perennial unwilling house manager, because her family owns the place and her dad always makes her. Basically in charge of the space as a whole. Not a huge fan of her job, but finds some amusement/comfort in getting to sit in the shadows and watch the prod team bicker and make fools of themselves, bc it makes her feel competent in comparison.

[lucerocosplay]

Break down of my melon soda float prop for my Sailor Jupiter Bunny Suit build. You could easily tweak this for any other drink prop and the majority of materials were sourced from Daiso, including the tray it velcros to so it's fairly low budget.

Materials:

-Desired cup/glass for drink (I would advise sticking with plastic versions for weight and safety reasons) -Plastic ice cubes -Masking or Washi tape -Clear seed beads or Caviar beads in multiple sizes -Clear craft glue -Super glue -UV Resin & alcohol dye OR Stain Glass window paint (Gallery Glass would be my rec) - Some sort of thin, clear plastic sheeting I used part of a salad container -*Muddle spoons or straw or similar decor (polymer clay sprinkles, glitter, any sort of inclusion) -*Foam clay & an ice cream mold or scoop if you want to make a float -*Acrylic paint -*Velcro or Magnets if you would like to stick to a prop tray that you can also remove for photos

*= optional materials

‼️ SAFETY ADVISORY ‼️

If you choose to use UV resin for this you must have proper PPE. That means gloves, respirator with appropriate filters, mixing cups, well filtered workspace, and knowing how to properly dispose of scrap. Do not pour it down drains, please cure all runoff or extra fully before disposing of in household waste. Resin that is still in it's liquid state must be disposed of in chemical waste, this includes paper towels or anything else used to "clean up". You can take a moment to read more here or do your own googling for proper precautions before getting started.

The first thing I did was make my ice cream scoop since it needed to cure for a few days. I found this great little scoop mold I shaped the foam clay too and froze for a bit. Once it was firm enough to remove I set it by a window to dry. Then worked on making a clear plastic base that would fit inside my glass and act as the "top" of my "liquid".

When the base was done and fit snugly to my glass I primed my dry ice cream scoop in glue. This was partly to keep a barrier over the blue foam so the color didn't leach, and partly to give the acrylic paint something to bite into without being absorbed by the foam. Then it was painted a nice shade of vanilla and glued to the plastic base with craft glue. I poked two holes on the underside to also add a pair of short metal flat head wire supports to make sure it didn't peel off. The supports themselves were set with super glue, a bit overkill I know.

Between my paint layers drying I was also puzzle piecing in ice cubes in the glass to see what combination looked the most appealing. However, it also needed to accommodate that clear plastic base so there was constant test fittings. The trick here with fit is you want the cubes to fit snug vertically but not touching the sides of the cup too. You need that wiggle room for the UV resin/window paint. If it rattles around on the sides a bit that would be ideal.

When I found a composition that worked I carefully super glued each cube only where it touched the other cubes. Sometimes superglue oxidizes a little funny on clear surfaces and it can leave a sort of foggy buildup. In those instances you can wipe it away with an alcohol swab to keep things looking clear. As with the step before I keep checking the fit to the glass to make sure I have proper clearance to keep the base level.

When my cubes were one weird unit the fun began! I mixed some different sized clear seed beads (you can also use caviar beads) in some clear pva glue. You want a more dry mixture so it helps to let it set up a bit and get sort of gummy. The idea is replicating how bubbles accumulate in carbonated drinks, so keeping it at points where you would imagine they would get trapped under cubes helps. Of course so does referencing an actual drink lol. I just piled on and semi sculpted the beads in chunks and waited for them to cure.

Of course this same bubble detail was added to the clear base under the ice cream scoop as well. This time just around the perimeter of the scoop. At this point I realized I was forgetting something, the cherry! It is actually an earring I lose the pair to lol. I also cut out a small slot in the plastic base to fit a straw through. On the right you can see how everything looks at this last and final test fit before the "soda" portion was added. The washi tape was used to keep the inner lip clean of UV resin later, but also to mark where my base should be resting.

Putting the cubes and top layer to the side I got to mixing my UV resin. As a point of reference I used just under 1 jumbo tube of the Daiso clear resin which is around 20g or .70oz of product. I mixed some liquid pigment to the shade of green I wanted and got to pouring. Keeping the tape on I poured all of my resin in and kept turning my glass for even coverage. Once that was good to go I sat outside for about 5 minutes slowly turning the glass in direct sun until the resin set enough to stop moving. At this point the washi tape was peeled off. Then I left in on my porch to finish curing in the sun until the following day. The cup will get warm to hot depending on the volume of UV resin so please be mindful. If you were to use window paint I would build up the color over a few days in thin coats and like a silicone brush. When the cup was fully cured I fit my cubes back in and the clear base, and added the straw to the little divot to make sure it all fit well. It did so I went ahead and removed the straw and added some super glue to the top most cube that laid flush against that little sheet of plastic and pressed the ice cream scoop on the base firmly into place. Once it was in I slipped the straw through the divot on the side and mixed a little more green resin that was poured around the ice cream scoop to seal it all in. Then it was once again left on my porch for a full day. If you were doing this in window paint a thick layer on top and texture it to look more like a drink. Though do to it's want to self level there may be some mild resistance until it starts to set up. When my prop was fully cured I added some velcro to the base so it would stick to my drink tray and be peeled off for photos not pictured lmao. Badda bing badda boom it was done!

Lightweight, fun to make, and fairly low budget this is a prop you could make with things from most dollar stores not just Daiso. Personally I think the dollar tree two part acrylic champagne flutes would be perfect for this.

[ashlynniis-bracketeers]

UNCHAINED SANGUINEOUS HEARTMAKER {Guilty Gear}

Riding the high of a resounding Epiphany.

...Did I pull another "Desdinova" purely out of sheer A.B.A hopium? (I kept the lines sketchy, though, because I could not be arsed to try and mimic Strive's linework style again after the pain from last time ahjsdgajhsdgadk)

Yes. Yes I did.

So, those Season 3 character survey results, huh? The A.B.A hopium is real. I really do wonder what they'd do with her if she was brought to Strive, so I decided to try my hand at a "Strive-ified" A.B.A design.

Make sure to check under the cut for the "concept art" I made + their associated information.

So, design background info:

So, she's a... weirdo homunculus, right? An artificial human, created by a mad scientist she never met, so she was alone and never really learned how to... "people". That key in her head also keeps on reminding me of the bolts lodged in the sides of pop-culture-ified Adam's (Frankenstein's monster) head. She's also desperately trying to find a human(oid) body for the demon/magical foci Paracelsus/Flament Nagel, who she is deeply in love with. Artificially-created human, medical themes, artificial human form, deeply in love...

So what if she decided that, with her attempts at finding a body for him repeatedly failing (XX endings don't count, XX's canonicity is completely FUCKED lmao), why doesn't she just... create one herself instead?

In other words, the creation becomes the creator. Lil' bit of "Bride of Frankenstein" thrown in, if the guy making the bride (or in this case, groom) was the monster itself.

So, making her into a key-axe-wielding mad scientist homunculus.

I tried to make her pose reminiscent of a dance move, specifically a "dip".

I hope you like it!

GG ABA Strive fandesign sheet 01

The first drawing I got done of my design for A.B.A (featuring a base-shapes Paracelsus for scale). Featuring her color palette (F1 is base flesh, F2 is scarring, H is hair, B is bandages, C1 is primary coat color, C2 is secondary coat color, C3 is tertiary coat color, E is "edges", M1 is one of the metal colors, A is "accents", M2 is the second metal color, and the square below that is the eye colors), weird ragged patchwork "lab-coat", boot details, "branding", and some of the text on her design.

- The phrase printed along the front edge of her coat (and the heels of her boots) is "LOCK&SEE" (the "&" stylized to look like/replaced with a keyhole symbol), a spin on the phrase "Lock and Key", fitting with her obsession with keys and tendency towards twisting sayings/phrases into mondegreens. Also implies hiding something.

- The brand on the back of her coat is meant to look like the coffin shape on the back of Paracelsus's head during Moroha Mode, with the nose hole and right eye hole visible. Text above it reads "PARACELSUS" (with the P and R stylized to have curved horns in the back like MM Para), and the text underneath reads "FLAMENT NAGEL" (with similar "horn" stylization on the F).

- The scarring is damage from her not wearing proper protective gear during her experiments (because she doesn't seem like one to wear proper PPE lmao), much of it taking up most of the left side of her upper torso/arm (meant to mirror Strive Faust's stitching).

- She's both grimy and very... "DIY", so her stitching is very hodgepodge.

- The text along the stitching on the back of her coat reads "The More The Moodier.", a play on one of her mondegreen win-quotes in XX (against I-No: "People say "the more the gloomier", but she's just too much to take...") but with the same alliteration as "the more the merrier" which it was derived from.

- The brand on the right side of her shorts is the same as on her back, but without the "FLAMENT NAGEL" and with "PARACELSUS" underneath instead of above.

- The key markings (gloves, boots) all have the same key-blade shape as Paracelsus.

- I had some trouble figuring out some of her colors, as they differed between the sprites (blue metal, glove. and trim) and official artwork (dark brown metal + glove, blue trim), so I decided to have dark brown for the keys and dark blue for the studded trim and left glove.

- The laces of her boots and the buttons on her coat are meant to resemble Para's mouth stitches

- Made her head-key/neck keys have a little skull decoration similar to some of her XX art (it's very inconsistent).

GG ABA Strive fandesign sheet 02

The second "Strive-ified" A.B.A design sheet I made.

- Both of the large gloves look the same, with the red bands and Paracelsus-blade key markings.

- The dark blue left-hand glove is (mostly) the same. I like to think that it's her "woobie", what with her tendency to get attached to inanimate objects.

- The dark blue cropped tank-top is meant to only be visible in Moroha. The text reads "MOCK&KEY" (the "&" stylized to look like/replaced with a stylized keyhole symbol, the top part of the keyhole meant to look like a coffin), another spin on "Lock and Key" like the previously-mentioned "LOCK&SEE" compounded with her believing herself to be superior to humans. Moroha is what was locked-up.

GG ABA Strive fandesign sheet 03

Third sheet I made.

- Noting specific design changes during Moroha. Coat opens + key "eyes" gain red glow.

- Design for her head + neck keys.

- Design for her bloodpacks. Text reads "FRASCO". Symbol underneath meant to look like a "flask" shape made out of an upside-down keyhole.

GG ABA Strive fandesign sheet 04 (Para)

The fourth sheet I made, featuring Paracelsus and his colors.

I honestly didn't change much lmao. His design is already weird by GG standards, mostly just tweaked some things.

- Made his eyes asymmetrical. Right has small iris and no pupil, left has beady pupil. Wanted to make him look "cartoony (western) neurotic/nervous" while hinting at his "main" glowy eye in Moroha being his right eye.

- I blurred/smudged the blood along the bottom edge to imply that A.B.A dragging him around wore away some of it.

- I added some spikes to his collar for a "punk" look, which glow red in Moroha.

- I kept his mouth stitches in Moroha. The mouth-corner stitches remain, while the middle stitches are tied around his left horn.

GG ABA Strive fandesign sheet 05

The final sheet I made, featuring mechanic ideas, "meta" stuff, and a design for repurposing an older move into a reversal super.

- Non-replenishable resources don't really fly in Strive, so I decided to make them replenishable through an alternate version of Bonding (a.k.a Keygrab). One Keygrab variant for Moroha, one Keygrab variant for a bloodpack. Starts off with no bloodpacks. Max three bloodpacks at a time. Functionality basically the same as XX.

- Turned Altercation (i.e. Enter Goku Moroha) into a Moroha-exclusive reversal super. Goku Moroha is not something that flies by modern fighting game characters, let alone Strive, so GM would definitely get axed. Still keeping Altercation as an absolute weirdo of a move, taking different resources depending on how much she has of each.

- Not sure what to actually do with Moroha's function/moveset, but having an "Install" state is the big thing that defines A.B.A's playstyle, so she'd probably keep at least base Moroha.

- Evidence: Concealment becomes a full reversal that only hits one hit as opposed to three, because most people cancel it after the first hit anyway lmao

[lovers-tucked-into-a-quiet-cafe]

Personnel Files [IKYLHT]

Series Masterlist | Next: 141 & Rabbit Headcanons

-

Name: [REDACTED]

Callsign: Highwater (formerly), Rabbit

Rank: Gunnery Sergeant (E-7)

Occupation: Demon Dogs Operative, 0251 MOS Interrogator/Debrief Specialist

Affiliations: United States Marine Corps (formerly), Demon Dogs, Coalition, Task Force 141

Identifiers: 26yr Female, 172cm, ‘Heavily’ Tattooed

Physical Assessment: Determined Fit for Duty: Affirm. 

Note: Physical Examination cut short, patient held overnight in medical ward after severely injuring nurse practitioner. Sudden unprompted hysteria after [REDACTED], patient forcefully restrained. Absence of physical response to constraints- ceased movement and allowed for further restriction of movement in accordance to protocol. Negative emotional response to constraints- immediate increase in hysteria, cowering in expected physical harm, patient proceeded to [REDACTED], refused medical treatment. Evidence of trauma-response based attack. Unknown psychological trigger. Incident Number 9836573.

Psychological Evaluation: Determined Fit for Duty: Affirm. 

Note: Recalled to active duty following brief unauthorized leave of absence after covert operation in [REDACTED], Mexico. Patient requested base transfer upon return, application denied until documentation of post-mission evaluation was received. Patient agreed to undergo aforementioned evaluation, halted after [REDACTED], Incident Number 9836573. Patient attended recommended Cognitive Processing Therapy following incident. Currently attending 1-1 Psychotherapy, prescribed Venlafaxine. Patient granted permission by PhD. Harrison to avoid medical institutions unless warranted by life-threatening illness or injury. 

-

Name: John ‘Johnny’ MacTavish

Callsign: Soap

Rank: Sergeant (E-5)

Occupation: SAS Operative, Sniper and Demolitions Expert

Affiliations: SAS, Coalition, Task Force 141

Identifiers: 26yr Male, 183cm, Medium Brown Hair, Blue Eyes, Various Tattoos on Arms

Physical Assessment: Determined Fit for Duty: Affirm. 

Note: Patient reports noticeable decline in migraine and fatigue following tinnitus treatment, as previously prescribed. Patient was recommended the continuation of such methods- avoiding caffeine and nicotine, limiting salt intake, increasing vitamin B12, and following proper PPE protocols.

Psychological Evaluation: Determined Fit for Duty: Affirm.

Note: - -

-

Name: Simon Riley

Callsign: Ghost

Rank: Lieutenant (O-2)

Occupation: SAS Operative, Sabotage and Infiltration Expert

Affiliations: SAS, Coalition, Task Force 141

Identifiers: 28yr Male, 192cm, Dark Blonde Hair, Brown Eyes, Half-Sleeve Tattoo on Right Forearm, Skull Plate Face Covering [On-Mission], Balaclava Face Covering [Off-Mission On-Base]

Physical Assessment: Determined Fit for Duty: Affirm.

Note: - -

Psychological Evaluation: Determined Fit for Duty: Affirm.

Note: Patient’s routine psychological evaluation is past-due. Clear for active duty, ordered to schedule annual check-up eval at earliest convenience. When questioned, patient admits to decline in attendance of 1-1 Psychotherapy regarding [REDACTED]. Declines request for therapy and/or medication regarding childhood PTSD. Declines request for medication regarding [REDACTED].

-

Name: Kyle Garrick

Callsign: Gaz

Rank: Sergeant (E-5)

Occupation: SAS Operative, Weapons Tactics and Covert Surveillance Expert

Affiliations: British Army (formerly), SAS, SAS Domestic Counter-Terror Program, Coalition, Task Force 141

Identifiers: 24yr Male, 180cm, Dark Brown Hair, Brown Eyes

Physical Assessment: Determined Fit for Duty: Affirm.

Note: Patient reports continued migraine and light sensitivity post-concussion. Prescribed Topiramate to manage temporary symptoms. Screened for excessive bleeding and hemorrhaging, no evidence of prolonged injury post blunt force trauma found. 

Psychological Evaluation: Determined Fit for Duty: Affirm.

Note: - -

-

Name: Jonathan ‘John’ Price

Callsign: Bravo 0-6

Rank: Captain (O-3)

Occupation: 22nd SAS Regiment Captain, Close Quarter Battle Specialist, Seek-and-Strike Expert

Affiliations: British Army (formerly), SAS, Coalition, Task Force 141

Identifiers: 36yr Male, 185cm, Medium Brown Hair, Blue Eyes, Full Beard

Physical Assessment: Determined Fit for Duty: Affirm.

Note: Patient was recommended the use of Cyclobenzaprine for continued back pain and muscle spasms, denied fulfilling prescription due to inability to consume nicotine or alcohol while on medication. 

Psychological Evaluation: Determined Fit for Duty: Affirm.

Note: Patient was recommended the use of Nitrazepam to provide short-term relief from severe anxiety and insomnia while off-duty, denied fulfilling prescription due to sedative properties and possibility of impaired judgment or coordination in the event of an unscheduled call back to base. 

-

Name: Alejandro Vargas

Callsign: N/A

Rank: Colonel (O-6)

Occupation: Mexican Special Forces Operative, Leader of Los Vaqueros

Affiliations: Mexican Army (formerly), Los Vaqueros, Task Force 141

Identifiers: 28yr Male, 186cm, Dark Brown Hair, Brown Eyes, Various Arm Tattoos

Physical Assessment: Determined Fit for Duty: Affirm.

Note: Patient recommended continuation of physical therapy for affected shoulder. 

Psychological Evaluation: Determined Fit for Duty: Affirm.

Note: Patient noted displaying uncharacteristic signs of high stress. Unknown stress trigger. Recommended self-treatment: elimination of nicotine and caffeine from diet, substitution of herbal teas and remedies. Patient admitted as to previously declining aforementioned recommendations, notes having implemented recommendations under the order/care of [REDACTED]. Follow-up advised.

-

Name: Rodolfo ‘Rudy’ Parra

Callsign: N/A

Rank: Sergeant Major (E-9)

Occupation: Mexican Special Forces Operative, Los Vaqueros Second-in-Command

Affiliations: Mexican Army (formerly), Los Vaqueros, Task Force 141

Identifiers: 28yr Male, 181cm, Dark Brown Hair, Brown Eyes, Various Arm and Chest Tattoos

Physical Assessment: Determined Fit for Duty: Affirm.

Note: - -

Psychological Evaluation: Determined Fit for Duty: Affirm.

Note: Patient noted displaying signs of high stress, declined additional optional psychological screenings. Recommended time off-duty to mitigate stress, patient denied ability to leave base for extended periods of time.

-

Name: N/A

Callsign: Konig

Rank: Oberfeldwebel [Staff Sergeant, Technical Sergeant]

Occupation: KorTac Operative

Affiliations: Kommando Spezialkräfte (formerly), KorTac

Identifiers: 27yr Male, 198cm, Blue Eyes, Sniper Veil Face Covering

Physical Assessment: Determined Fit for Duty: Affirm.

Note: N/A

Psychological Evaluation: Determined Fit for Duty: Affirm.

Note: N/A

-

Name: Valeria Garza

Callsign: El Sin Nombre

Rank: N/A

Occupation: Leader of Las Almas Cartel, KorTac Operative

Affiliations: Mexican Special Forces (formerly), KorTac

Identifiers: 28yr Female, 168cm, Dark Brown Hair, Brown Eyes, Various Tattoos on Arms

Physical Assessment: N/A

Psychological Evaluation: N/A

-

<3

[psychic-waffles]

Recently seen another wave of people getting into resin casting hobbies and it stresses me the hell out so this is going to be a PSA

IF YOU ARE USING RESIN YOU NEED PROPER PPE

Resin is nasty stuff and just because it's sold in hobby kits now doesn't mean it's safe. Unfortunately a lot of resins marketed to casting craft hobbies will be marked as "non-toxic/low VOC/safe to use at home" however this can mean anything from 'fairly harmless' to 'slightly less toxic than some other resins'. Don't let anyone tell you you don't need PPE while using resin.

So lets talk about resin allergies

The components in resin and it's hardeners and dilutants are all powerful irritants and sensitisers. This means obviously they can irritate your skin and airways if you come into contact with them or breathe in the fumes, but this also means that you can build up a sensitivity over time. Because of this you can develop a severe reaction over time, you might have your first reaction to resin on the first day you use it, or you might develop an allergy after several years of using it. The more you use resin the more likely you are to develop an allergy.

The reaction is most often a form of dermatitis which could present as redness, ichiness, irritation, swelling, or even skin blisters. Fumes can also cause breathing difficulties and other complications, and with some resins these may be present in significant quantities up to a week after the resin has cured.

In the absolute worst case if you develop a severe epoxy allergy (or allergy to other related compounds) you may be restricted from using a significant percentage of glues and paints, you will need to tell your dentist before you have any work done, you may even be unable to use things like vinyl or plastic handbags. And that's not even the half of it.

So what can you do about it?

The best way to protect yourself from a resin allergy is the proper PPE. Always read any safety materials that come with the resin (these should be inclued with the resin, but you may have to check the manufactureres or sellers website).

Only use resin in a well ventilated space, preferably outdoors, DO NOT DO THIS IN YOUR BEDROOM or any other room you are spending a lot of time in, just because you cannot smell fumes doesn't mean they're not there. If you don't have a suitable space you will need to build a fumes tent: instructions here.

Use NITRILE gloves (latex gloves won't cut it)

USE A RESPIRATOR! You will need either a half face respirator and safety glasses or a full face respirator, and it will need to be able to filter organic gasses and vapors. Make sure your mask fits correctly and air isn't getting in through the sides, and check how often you need to change your filters. (note - you should also have one of these for things like spray painting)

Make sure you're wearing long sleeves/as much skin is covered as possible. If you get resin on your clothing it will ruin them so having dedicated old clothing for working with resin is a good idea.

keep your workspace clean and have materials to mop us spillages on hand so you can minimise the risk of cross contamination.

If you do get resin on your skin wash it off with soap and water immedaitely (you can also get special soaps that are more effective for washing it off of skin)

Finally just do your own research, this sounds silly but it's your own health (and possibly the health of anyone else or any pets living with you) that's at risk here, so make sure you understand the safety implication of the materials you're using.

Please don't take this post as the be all and end all, I've almost definitely forgotten something and this is just intended to be a starting point

[jollygreendragonsden]

Proper PPE, such as eye protection and a properly fitted dust mask are required while operating the Seismic Cannon to avoid contact with toxic materials while mining or demolishing condemned structures. The seismic cannon is not to be pointed at any fellow workers while in use to avoid liquefaction of internal organs.

[materialsscienceandengineering]

PPE: Respirators

One type of personal protective equipment (PPE) is respiratory protection. There are two main types of respiratory protection: air-purifying respirators, or respirators that filter out hazards from the air, and air-supplying respirators, or respirators that are connected to their own supply of air separate from the surroundings. Each type has its own sub-varieties, which must be carefully selected based on the hazard to be encountered. Because respirators are more complicated than other forms of PPE, and a proper fit is required to ensure correct usage, organizations often have distinct requirements and training before individuals can be allowed to use them, which may or may not include medical evaluations.

Sources/Further Reading: (Image source - CDC) (Grainger) (3M)

[the-bjd-community-confess]

making bjd eyes is one of the things i’m THE most passionate about, but i’m struggling a bit finding the best way to make them, both in regards to their longevity, but also my health. im going to talk about it and ask if anybody has any ideas :3

i want to use the least toxic materials i can. i started off using uv resin as everybody seemed to use in their tutorials, and because of that i didn’t know how ridiculously toxic the fumes are. be careful with that stuff!!!!!!!!!! im now using non toxic slow cure resins, which is less convenient, but i’d rather not die for little plastic eyeballs!!!!!! be mindful of your health please!!!!!!

im also worried about the yellowing rates of all materials i could use. i’d like my eyes to hold up for as many years as they can!! for eye bases, im currently experimenting with said non toxic resin that’s also meant to be quite uv stable, combined with titanium dioxide powder for colouring which is also used as an anti uv ingredient in sunscreen…but im not a chemist and don’t know what fumes they make together. the resin on its own can be nontoxic because it doesn’t react with anything but itself, but i don’t know what adding the titanium dioxide will do. so far it’s working okay! i just need to find ways to grind the powder better as it likes to clump (pestle and mortar isn’t working super great for me rn). i did try polymer clay for the bases, but found it really hard to get into all the nooks and crannies so they came out wrong!! as well as it being near impossible for me to keep ALL the dust out. painting over it with acrylic paint made them a bit sticky…and therefore dusty again…

for the irises i use polymer clay! i tried pan pastels, but i can’t get it to look anything but grainy and muddy, so polymer clay is best for me. im currently waiting for some new moulds that should fit the irises, so i can cure them separately and then insert them into the bases. i am NOT !! putting resin in the oven after all that work to detox the process

it’s so difficult!!! but i want to make sure i can deliver the best product i possibly can while keeping myself safe. im so passionate about my craft but it’s so hard to meet problem after problem!!!! and it’s so stressful to see people sell uv resin eyes they didn’t use proper ppe to make!!!! stop that!!!! also while i’m at it, cure your polymer clay inside the resin, the polymers will break down the resin eventually and it’ll just suck and be nasty!!

a lot of my other ideas would be super expensive to set up too, so they’re going on the back burner for now. i hope all this is worth it and people will like my eyes once i figure it all out. im still happy just to make them for myself, but i don’t have enough dolls to justify sitting and making eyes all day for that!! if anybody has any experience or ideas for how to reduce fumes and increase longevity, please tell me!!!! im trying Everything i can get my hands on. sometimes i feel like i’m losing my mind thinking solely of little plastic eyes all day long

~Anonymous

[luperpla]

i wanna gab about preshading and how ive been doing it lately. trying to type longer guides on patreon and HV but let's try a quick and dirty version here and see if that helps me get those posts together better. as far as tools used for this, i use an iwata hp-cs and hp-ch (which are .3 and .2mm nozzle airbrushes respectively) along with gaianotes paints for painting gunpla. proper ppe (nitrile gloves, a well fitting respirator and a spraybooth that moves enough air) are a must when working with lacquers. dont give yourself lung or liver cancer for plamo plskthx. pics are from a mixture of the mg sazabi's WIP and some test junk i was doing with the hguc sinanju.

step 1: primer yer part i like to use colored primers cause it really ups the saturation on the paint you use on it. pink for reds/oranges/yellows, blue for purple/blues, grey or white for whites/greys

step 2: mix your preshade color ymmv on these but personally i like using a darker shade of the main color to do the shading by adding a complimentary color to it. for example, for these parts i mixed brown in to the custom orange color i made. you can use whatever you want though. some folks like using black as a preshade and that's ok! i preshade my orange-yellow paints with pure orange, and blues with either a darker blue or blue with some purple/black mixed in. to goal is to compliment/blend a bit with the color that's going on top.

step 3: go around the edges and panel lines with your dark color, leaving room to fill in with your main paint. hope your hand is steady and your paints are mixed/thinned well! very carefully, go around the part and darken up the edges/panel lines/underside of your parts. i shade anywhere where the "light" might darken up on a real world object but i can't speak to how accurate of a sentiment that is, if that makes sense? it's just what looks 'right' to my eye to do it this way. but the part that's shaded above should serve as a good indicator. here are a few other parts pre-filling in:

i do this this way for three reasons: first and second, im lazy and cheap. i don't want to waste time and paint coating the entire part when i'm just gonna cover it up anyway. third, if i coat the entire part in the preshade color that's going to have an effect on the main color that's going on top. mainly, it's going to make it darker. i don't want that so i landed on shading stuff this way.

step 4: fill in your main color okay so i always do a shitty job taking pictures of this step (that's why there are no sazabi pictures here) but once you have the edges and stuff painted now it's time to take your main color and fill in the primer-spaces. don't go over your preshade lines, just get as close as you can to that line. it's fine if you hit the edge a little, after all this is the topmost layer of color. even if it doesn't turn out perfect, just work with the wabisabi of the whole thing. embrace the shading not being perfectly uniform. after all, things in real life have degrees of variance.

take your time, work with a psi around ~12-15, thin your paints well, and be very gentle on the trigger. i work really really close to the part for this step and have to be very careful to avoid splattering or overspraying. this is probably???? one of the trickier parts of this??? i don't know. when you've been doing this for so long your definition of that sorta changes. if you need extra help, look in to something to help steady your arm/hand while doing this part.

step 5: blending okay, so you've got your shading down, you filled in the rest of the space with the main color and it's feelin pretty good. but. there's one more step. get a little distance from your part and give the whole thing the lightest coat you can manage. the goal is to blend the primary color and shading layer together with one or two very light coats of paint. i'm not trying to cover up the preshading, i just want a very thin layer of the main color to harmonize everything.

see how the preshading isn't so stark now that we've given it those final two coats? i think this is the key to bringing the shading and main layers together. everything feels nice and "finished" now. from here, gloss coat the parts for panel lining and decals or flat coat (or whatever finish you wanna use) it if it's not getting any of those.

and...that's pretty much it. as an aside, glossy finishes tend to make the colors appear darker and flatcoats tend to look lighter but that could just be my eyes being weird.

and uhh....yeah. thanks for coming to my gunpla talk.

[cyborg-alchemist]

Hey Cy (can I call you Cy? What about Cybal?) What's your favorite or strongest welding process? What's the most difficult metal or alloy you've welded successfully? What's your least favorite process and alloy? Do you have any favorite stories in the shop you currently work at or just from engineering or welding jobs in general? If you've already told those stories then what are the tags?

Sure thing! I haven't actually thought of any sort of tumblr name other than my URL and I guess those work.

So my favorite welding process is, by far, stick welding. It's my first arc, first love, and the first prices I felt like I was actually good at. It's also the last time I really had a ton of fun welding, when I got ahold of a pound of general purpose stainless rods for a personal project. It's really fun to strike an arc and then just being along for the ride, and it smells like woodsmoke. The great tragedy is that I actually kind of hate most professional situations that call for stick welding. I like working on a table or saw horses in a shop, not in a mud pit or crawling across beams.

My strongest process is semiautomatic wire fed. I'm particularly fond of flux core, as it's the one I actually use at work. I'm good for everything from like ⅛" to... technically my certification is for unlimited thickness, but I've only done up to 2".

Either way, I prefer welding if I get to crack a slag layer when I'm done.

Honorable mention for TIG: I love you, but it's been fucking ages and these days I'm lucky if I can run a stack of dimes and not a stack of blobs.

My most difficult metal... So, most of the time I'm just working with structural steel. You know, boring, low alloy stuff. I've worked with stainless and aluminum, and both of those were pretty fun, but they were the sorts we use in a trade school, so pretty easy, all things considered.

The actual worst stuff I've had to work with is zinc. Ok, technically I'm not actually welding the zinc, I'm welding through it, but it's still the actual worst. It spits and sputters and spatters and tries to throw the whole damn weld back out at me. The only times I've been genuinely concerned that I'd say myself on fire with sparks was from going slightly too fast/slow and having the weld shot out, over my mask, on top of my head. Yesterday, I also got up close and personal with how much it can fuck up a job, even if you don't have to weld it. The place that does our galvanizing charges by weight, so they basically smear on as much as they can, and in addition too warping the fuck out of our precisely drilled holes, and made them so much larger the frames would no longer fit where they needed to go. Even grinding it gums up my wheels and smells like cherries if you lean hard enough to actually get through all that shit.

For whatever reason, my work frequently breaks the "weld first, then galvanize" rule for logical reasons. I once had to weld through galvanized shit for three months because the job only called for half of each piece to be galvanized, and we were too cheap to do the whole thing after I'd done them.

Galvanization sucks and I hate it.

Most of my stories from work are along the lines of spot the OSHA violation, we almost built an entire floor backwards because apparently I'm the only one who can read prints, and we actually built this flight of wall rails backwards because the engineers programed these cuts, why would the fabricator need prints? At least that last time I finally got proper respiration PPE, because both me and my helper were getting sick welding through the paint fixing that job, and my helper is the owners son.

Oh, and one day I watched two people in a row set themselves on fire with the acetylene torch, and a third one almost setting his fuel line on fire when he set the torch down, still lit, and walked off to move the stuff he set it down on.

When I lay it all out like that, it almost sounds like I'm not paid enough to deal with this shit.

[educationalcourses]

Elevate Your Career with a Safety Management Course Your Key to a Safer Workplace

In today’s time, where safety in the workplace has come to be believed to go hand-in-hand with productivity and efficiency, an investment in a Safety Management Course has turned vital and will only prove to be beneficial. Since organizations are more and more emphasizing employee welfare, therefore the role of professionally trained safety professionals is crucial, thus this investment not only fosters a safer workplace but also drives productivity, making it clear that safety is not only necessary but also a pathway to success. Moreover, this attention to safety not only contributes to making the working environment much safer but also contributes to operational efficiency.

What Is a Workplace Hazard?

A workplace hazard can be generally described as any condition or circumstance that has the potential to cause sickness, injury, or death to an employee. The indications of hazards are limitless, ranging from the physical hazards of machinery and equipment to environmental hazards involving toxic substances. Understanding the concept of hazards in the workplace is the first step in creating a proactive safety culture. It should be noted that workplace harm is different from workplace hazards. While workplace hazard is the source of potential harm, workplace harm refers to an injury, illness, or damage that occurs either because the hazard is not controlled or because the controls in place are ineffective. For example, if a machine is unguarded, then it presents a hazard, however, if during the operation, an employee without proper safety control injures its hand, then that specific injury is harmful. Effective safety management directly addresses those hazards that have the potential to cause harm and ensure a safer work environment.

Types of Workplace Hazards

Understanding the different types of workplace hazards is very important in effective safety management. There are several categories in which hazards can be classified:

Physical Hazards: These involve injuries arising from unsafe workplace conditions, extreme temperatures, noise, slipping, and falling. These could come from environmental factors and different pieces of equipment used in everyday operations.

Chemical Hazards: The exposure to chemicals, both the traditional industrial ones and the modern-day toxins, might be through inhalation, skin contact, or ingestion. A number of risks might be associated with improper handling and storage and with the lack of use of PPEs. The implementation of safety procedures in terms of proper labeling and managing spills would be critical in addressing them.

Biological Hazards: These usually include bacteria, viruses, and fungi. Although not as noticeable as other forms of hazards, they form one of the most dangerous elements of risk in healthcare, laboratories, and food handling environments. Good management includes keeping clean, proper disposal of waste, and vaccinations when necessary to avoid exposure.

Ergonomic Hazards: These include poor workstation design and any factor that stresses the body. Poor ergonomics sets a person up to get injured, such as musculoskeletal disorders, which are usually preventable through training and adjustment of workplace setup to fit the needs of the employees.

Psychosocial Hazards: Stress and other forms of workplace bullying or harassment impact employees in terms of well-being and productivity. Consequences include absences and instability. Organizations should work toward creating a supportive work environment, open communications, and mental health resources to treat these issues effectively.

This, in turn, can enable a safer and healthier workplace through recognition and proper action on these hazards, helping to uplift general employee satisfaction and productivity.

Getting Started With UniAthena’s Safety and Hazard Course

This Mastering Hazard and Safety Management course will help you protect your team and minimize risks by equipping you with key knowledge in hazard identification, risk assessment, and safety protocol knowledge.

This free online Safety Management Course covers workplace hazards, relevant laws and regulations, and the role of a safety professional, thus providing the skills to lead work safety initiatives and create a safe working environment. With a flexible, one-week self-paced learning format and a certification from Cambridge International Qualifications, CIQ UK, it equips you with the knowledge and skills to create safer workplaces. Enroll right away and start your journey as a Safety and Hazard Management leader.

[josephlasek]

Essential Safety Guidelines for Woodworkers

Woodworking is a rewarding craft that requires skill, creativity, and a commitment to safety. Understanding and implementing proper safety measures is crucial for a positive and injury-free experience in the workshop. This article outlines key safety tips and basics that all woodworkers should know and practice consistently.

The foundation of woodworking safety begins before you even pick up a tool. Arrive at your workshop in the right state of mind. Avoid working when you're tired, under the influence of alcohol or drugs, or in a state of heightened emotional distress. These conditions can impair your judgment and reaction time, increasing the risk of accidents.

Proper attire is another critical aspect of workshop safety. Always wear appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE), including safety glasses or goggles, ear protection, and a dust mask. Dress in close-fitting clothes, roll up long sleeves, and tie back long hair to prevent entanglement with moving parts. Contrary to what some might assume, gloves should be avoided when operating most woodworking machinery.

An orderly and well-maintained workshop environment is equally important. Keep your tools in excellent condition, ensuring they are properly aligned and functioning correctly. When not in use, unplug power tools and engage their safety locks. A clean and organized workspace reduces the risk of trips and falls.

Listen to your body and maintain awareness of your surroundings. If you feel uncomfortable or awkward while using a tool, stop and reassess the situation. Always position yourself to the side of a blade rather than directly behind it to avoid potential kickback injuries. Moreover, proper training and viewing demonstrations on tool usage are essential, even for experienced woodworkers.

Safety in woodworking is about cultivating a mindset that prioritizes caution and awareness at all times. By showing up prepared, maintaining a safe workshop, using tools correctly, and staying alert, woodworkers can significantly reduce the risk of injury and create a more enjoyable and productive experience.

[ai-sen]

Essential Safety Equipment for Manual Motorcycles: A Comprehensive Guide

I. Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) 1. Helmets DOT, ECE, or Snell certified full-face helmets Proper fit and sizing Impact-absorbing liner Clear or tinted visor options Regular replacement (every 3-5 years) Ventilation system features 2. Protective Clothing Armored motorcycle jacket Abrasion-resistant pants CE-rated armor inserts Reflective materials Weather-appropriate…