#poldark costume project: ask box

[poldarkcostumingproject]

Do you find that in looking for fabrics are you more into finding color and drape over the screen used? I find price is always 1st on my list.

Hi thebitchystitcher!

Price is my number one concern as well for my Poldark costumes. There are times when I want to spend on pure silk or wool as seen on screen and there are times I want to use cotton, faux taffeta and flannel to save money. There are also times when I take shortcuts because I couldn’t find a good match on the color/pattern or texture in a historically accurate fabric. Linen tends to be tricky in this regard. After I determine my budget for the project, I then try to match color and texture as closely as I can. I generally avoid spandex/lycra/other stretch fabrics and dupioni because the draping and texture is too far off from anything used in the 18th Century.  

[poldarkcostumingproject]

Re: Demelza's shawl. It was most likely machine knit. I can tell because in order to create a fabric that dense by hand, you would have to use smaller than recommended needles to achieve such a tight gauge. To create that by hand would take a long time and that's not including the time it takes to sheer the sheep, card the wool, and spin and dye the yarn.

Thanks for the input, it’s been a while since I’ve knitted. I had a feeling Demelza’s shawl was machine knit, but TV productions in recent years have commissioned hand-knit items. Knitting on size 1 needles takes a million years though, but of course it’s ~historically accurate~. 

[poldarkcostumingproject]

I don't know if it really counts as a costume, but do you think the hair is more accurate and/or better in the 2015 Poldark or the 1975 one?

Hi Anonymous,

Hair/makeup questions count as costume questions! I don’t consider myself a wig expert but I believe overall 2015 Poldark did a better job with their efforts at historically accurate hair. You can tell that the deviations from beauty standards at the time are purposeful style decisions. Margaret Vosper is a good example of new series hair mistakes. There were way more wacky wigs, poorly disguised mullets, white guy afros, and hippie hair in the 1970′s series than modern styles in 2015.  Here’s pics of 1970′s Ross with a bonus pic of 1970′s Nicholas Warleggan as an example of past hair issues.

Thanks for the reminder to prioritize 1970′s breakdowns once Poldark Series 3 3 end in the US!

[poldarkcostumingproject]

You said once that Demelza wearing her hair completely down was historically inaccurate. What about some poorer people (like Jinny) wearing their hair loose? Or other women wearing them semi-loose, like Elizabeth does sometimes (the first episode comes to my mind)? Thanks! xx

Hi Anon!

This question is a great opportunity to go a little further into detail on the why’s of historical inaccuracy. I’ve cited the infamous Frock Flicks’ takedown of Poldark’s hairpin shortage quite a few times. Outside of their home women from all classes would have had worn some form of hair covering. There are examples in paintings where women had a hat or cap on with sections of the hair exposed.  The poorer women would have worn simple caps or straw hats on Sundays. For purely practical reasons such as dust and sweat, working class women often had complete updos under a cap. The woman in this painting is a good example of what Prudie should look like hair wise. 

While the Poldark costume department often breaks the head covering rule, there are still clear class distinctions on hair styles. Controlled and sculpted curls were the sign of a fashionable and well bred lady. The working class female characters and Demelza have messy and sometimes greasy straight, wavy, or curly hair. You can clearly tell the characters who have time and money for servants to assist them with their hair. This screencap from 3x03 shows Prudie with ill defined waves and curls and a cap that’s not covering most of her hair: 

This photo of Jinny Carter tending to Demelza from 1x04 shows her in a cap that is patterned quite closely to Ross’ Roscoff cap. Her hair has no signs of styling apart from putting the cap on:

On the flip side, Elizabeth’s hair is always tightly controlled, even when her hair Compare this photo of Elizabeth in 1x04 with Jinny and Prudie:

Elizabeth’s hair is often a toned down version of these styles. The lack of accuracy is usually in the absence of a hat and not the loose sections of hair. 

I hope this makes my previous analyses make a bit more sense!

[poldarkcostumingproject]

Why does Ross always wear a long coat and the other men wear short ones? If you've answered this, sorry!

Hi captain-ross-poldark!

I haven’t mentioned the reasonings behind Ross’ coat in the past aside from the pocket issue.  This selection from The World of Poldark features costume designer Marianne Agertoft. She explained how they designed Ross’ costume:

It’s clear from this passage they want Ross to look distinguished from the rest of the male cast gentry and miners alike. Longer tails on Ross’ coat is definitely part of that. Aidan Turner may have also commented on the costume in the past, but I am not 100% sure. 

Thanks for this question, I have a feeling other people were wondering as well! 

[poldarkcostumingproject]

There is no evidence of knitted shawls in the 18th c. at all. The paisley/Kashmir shawls begin to be imported by the 19th c, and then they were widely copied and woven by French and British sources. In all likelihood what they are putting the character in is a woven woolen piece. It doesn't even look knitted. What her costume is desperately lacking is a kerchief, which were worn regardless of class. But I guess the costume department wants to show off cleavage. instead!

Hi carolinesdaughter! 

Thank you so much for this additional information. This topic was one instance where even my trusted sources for second opinions were struggling with conflicting advice. There is quite a bit of misinformation out there on knitting history thanks to other 18th Century productions introducing anachronistic styles (ahem Outlander’s knitted items). 

In terms of the kerchief/fichu for Demelza, I already addressed why they wanted to move away from accuracy on that issue. They wanted Demelza to look more mature/fuller from breastfeeding Clowance.

I’ve handled this blog as a more flexible source of research compared to others online. I don’t have an editor or fact checker reading through each post beforehand. I believe the majority of the late 18th Century experts do not appreciate some of the creative licenses the Poldark costuming department has taken and are far too harsh in their analysis. The goal here is combining the research side with the aesthetic appreciation that comes from my cosplay background. Readers submitting constructive asks/replies with their counterpoints to mine helps the Project grow. I hope you will keep in touch in the future if you see anything else I’m off on. 

[poldarkcostumingproject]

Hello, I really appreciate your blog! I have a question that isn't quite about costumes, I've noticed that only the women wear wedding rings on the show do you know why is that?

Hi anon! 

Props and accessories count as costumes! I can’t recall any of the book descriptions on the wedding bands so this is a purely cultural history post. (I’ll get to re-reading the Poldark books for costume analysis after S3 airs in the US). Here’s a screenshot from 3x01where Demelza’s simple gold band is clearly visible:

The simple answer to why men didn’t wear wedding rings in this era is because at this time marriage gave men power over women. While there may have been some romantically minded men who did have jewelry to symbolize their commitment, it was not exactly the norm during the 18th Century. 

According to Colonial WIlliamsburg’s researchers, which we can safely assume is reflective of England at this time in terms of cultural customs, only the wife received a ring. This blog post on Regency wedding customs can also be applied to Season 3 since the traditions haven’t changed that much. 

This is one example of a fairly simple for the era wedding ring. Pure gold or silver rings were clearly for the upper classes. Mixed metal rings were the reserve of husbands without means. Some couples with means used posy (also spelled poesy or poesie) rings as their wedding ring. Posy rings had statements of love, friendship or fidelity engraved inside. Some men had these but they were mostly given to women. 

Men on the whole didn’t start wearing wedding rings until the World War II era according to this BBC News article. Many soldiers wanted rings to remember their wives and fiances by as they traveled overseas. 

I hope this answer also helps others to understand more about 18th Century traditions. 

P.S. If you are the anon who asked about Demelza’s frocks, II’m waiting until the end of S3 to to answer it for more evidence. If not, that’s OK.

[poldarkcostumingproject]

Hi! I have a question about Margaret Vosper's hair back in season 1. She used to have some red/pink strands in her hair, and I'm very curious if it's historically accurate? What do you think?

Thanks anon for a great question! Here’s a pic to jog everyone’s memories:

Hair dye in the 18th Century was commonplace, but it varied heavily by region and class status. The French court was well-known for women experimenting with weird colors on wigs and on natural hair, especially pastel tones in their hair. Overall, the English were moreso using natural color dyes to conceal unfavorable natural hair. Technically, if Demelza was more historically accurate, her hair would be dyed darker brown. Naturally red red hair was NOT fashionable. 

I was suspicious of the accuracy of Margaret’s hair when I first saw the episode. I’ve never seen magenta tones in the paintings of dyed wigs. Thankfully for us, the experts at Frock Flicks ruled Margaret’s hair not accurate in this post. It’s clear that this is modern chemical dye. The streaks are way too uniform. Hair dyes/powdering of the period would have soaked the entire head. Compare Margaret’s hair to these ladies in paintings.

Although Vosper is a sex worker, she dresses to blend in with the rest of society. The bright red lipstick and the beauty mark are what set her apart in this episode. 

The hair aside, Margaret Vosper’s open front gown is fairly typical for the 1780′s. If it wasn’t for the hair, she can fit right in with the cast of Harlots. I haven’t seen every episode yet but most of the outfits are in the right ballpark for mid 18th Century London . 

I have a feeling the actress came to set with already dyed hair and costuming decided to go with the flow because it made Vosper stand out as a “bad girl” on screen. 

[poldarkcostumingproject]

When did high-waist dresses start coming into fashion? I remember in 'Warleggan' Ross seeing Caroline in one, when he visits her in London, but I so much associate them with Regency fashions, and the Regency didn't in fact begin until 1811 (whereas The Black Moon and Four Swans, ie s3, take place 1794-97).

Hi xxsparksxx!

I’m glad you asked this question because I am sure several other people were wondering the same thing. This is one of those instances where fashion history terms doesn’t quite match political history. In terms of fashion, people broadly consider the Regency Era lasting from the 1780′s until well into the 1820′s. Versions of what would become trademark Regency style were observed on members of European royal houses as early as 1783. Around this time in France, there was a trend towards Greek/neoclassical revival which accelerated the spread of the high waisted and loose flowing dresses. This trend accelerated in England after the French Revolution in 1789. Shoe styles also changed, but it’s generally hard to see the women’s shoes on the show. 

As a specific to Cornwall example of Regency style dress, this is a painting of Amelia Opie, the wife of the famous artist John Opie from 1798. She was famous in her own rights at the time as a published novelist. 

Bonny who writes the Inspired by Poldark blog and other Jane Austen inclined readers of this blog actively make the case for the current years of the plot being the time for high waisted dresses. I believe the arguments against moving forward such as Cornwall’s distance from London are just as valid.

For now, the best way to see how the newer styles could be incorporated into the Poldark universe would probably be for me to jump ahead of the Poldark Podcast commentaries and analyze more from the later half of Series 1/Series 2 of the 1970′s version. That production introduced the newer styles of dress much earlier on and also showed the residents of Cornwall as being wealthier than the new series. For example, their version of Demelza’s seducing Ross dress was blatantly a Regency dress. If people want me to revisit this question in the break between the UK finale and the US airing, please let me know in the Ask Box or replies to this post. 

In conclusion, Winston Graham was correct as describing Caroline in Warleggan wearing the high waisted dress in London. The show for creative and/or budget reasons is holding back from showing the transition in style. I’m more inclined to be OK with the new series holding back because I know my aesthetic is generally the Rococo/Georgian era and not the Regency. I’m interested in seeing how Frock Flicks weighs in when PBS airs Poldark. I’ve also haven’t seen much UK expert posts aside from chatter on Facebook groups.

[poldarkcostumingproject]

Drake's hair looks very modern (today's styles). Any comments? I would have thought longer and unkept but would that look too much like Ross'?

Hi missmolly57!

Your guess is pretty much my answer!  It’s a pretty safe bet that Drake’s hair is cut in a modern fashion. Here’s a screenshot from 3x06.

Towards the end of the 18th Century, men’s hair was trending towards shorter cuts, especially in the upper classes. Even though the hair was cut slightly shorter, many men still had natural or styled curl. It’s difficult to pinpoint a good example in art work of a working class English teenage boy in the 1790′s without a hat on. This French Revolution era drawing shows a young man with slightly longer hair. 

I think the main goal of Poldark’s hair and makeup team is to make sure Ross’ hair is the most distinctive on set. This season, the male characters with longer hair (the miners, Tholly, Whitworth, Hugh Armitage) all have different hair colors or curl textures. 

[poldarkcostumingproject]

Am I alone in getting a Legally Blonde vibe from all of Caroline's pinkness? More season 2 I guess, but she's like 18th century Elle Woods

Hi Anonymous!

You’re not the only one who thought Cornish Elle Woods for Caroline’s earliest outfits! (Photo from Far Far Away)

 I will definitely finish a breakdown for at least 1 of her early Series 2 outfits before Series 3 starts in the US. :)

[poldarkcostumingproject]

Hi Amanda, As far as I know Ross always wears white neckties/stocks, in any circumstance (or no necktie). However I noticed that in S3E5 he wore a greenish/brownish necktie for the first time. Could you please explain this. I would love to hear your thoughts. Many thanks in advance. Love your blog.

Hi mymusingsfromtheheart!

After looking at the screencaps of Ross from 3x05 I have 3 possible theories about the change in stock color, and neither of them are about historical accuracy. There were as many stock colors as choices for fabric.

1) White clothing would be too easily visible by the enemy. Ross would want his clothing to be a sort of camouflage.

2) Upper class men usually wore white stocks. Ross looking more like a common soldier/working class man on his travels means ditching this detail.

3) The costume department wanted to show Ross “out of his element”. Subtle changes to his costume would be the way to show this. 

It would be an interesting question to ask the costume designers if there was ever a Q&A! I hope this conjecture answers your question.

[poldarkcostumingproject]

Hi Amanda, It struck me that in the christening of Clowance scene S3E4 Demelza wears a worn out straw hat (with holes in it) which did not seem to match with her new outfit. I would love to hear your thoughts on this. Is it perhaps to show us Demelza does not care for hats (for I noticed before she hardly ever wears really flattering hats and mostly less fitting straw ones...)?

Hi mymusingsfromtheheart,

Demelza’s old straw hat has been something several people have asked me about. Many refer to it as a dinner plate! (Pic from 3x04 cropped to avoid US spoilers here). 

In past seasons we know there’s a strong tendency to have Demelza wearing her hair completely down which as I’ve noted before is not accurate for the era. I’ve come to the conclusion that the costume department wants Demelza to still retain a bit of the “simple country girl” style. This season, her hair has more hairpins and ponytails compared to the past. Demelza may have new clothes and more responsibilities, but she doesn’t want to get rid of her favorite hat. She’s the anti Caroline and Elizabeth at least in terms of fashion. I think the hat with holes will probably be something we’ll have to live with unless she gets a new one to match a formal dress.

[poldarkcostumingproject]

My second ask is with regards to the basket he is carrying. It looks a lot like a fishing creel and I believe it was put to use when transporting toads.

Thanks for pointing this out! Upon second glance (and seeing scenes where the toads are being stored in the “pack basket”), it’s clear Drake does have a very small fishing creel. I’ll update this when I post more about this episode in October when Poldark airs in the US. This is just one example of a vintage creel. 

Creels were used to store bait and tools for fishing. In Drake’s case, he used a creel to carry George’s slimy nightmares. I dug up an article on fly fishing in the 18th Century if anyone wants to know more about this topic. 

By the way. I don’t have a fact checker for this blog. I’ve compiled my own research but I know there’s still a lot I need to learn. I also have a lot more sewing to do. Politely pointing out potential errors in posts in the asks or replies (I forget to check those sometimes) is much appreciated!

[poldarkcostumingproject]

I have a Jeremy hair question. His hair looks quite short for the period. The fringe at the front is fine, it's but very short on the top and at the back. Ps love all your posts on costume

Hi bondi-oldgirl,

Thanks for this question! Short hair for boys isn’t the norm for the 18th Century, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t possible. The trend of boys wearing wigs is definitely out of fashion by the Poldark era. A lot of the paintings with young boys in wigs are likely European royal family portraits from earlier in the century. I did find one 18th Century painting of a little boy with about Jeremy’s length of hair. (I should also note he is wearing a dress. This was common for boys around Jeremy’s age at the time.) 

On a more practical note, the parents of child actors would probably object to using hair extensions. Professional hair dressers/barbers would agree. His hair is most likely trimmed by a modern stylist more concerned with split ends than replicating period styles. 

[poldarkcostumingproject]

hello again!.. Following on from the stocking question, i began to wonder if women shaved their legs etc. back then. I know she's fair, but Demelza's legs looked silky smooth to me (elizabeth's too come to that) Would you know if that would be historically accurate? .. also what about men & shaving? What would ross use? I'd love to see a scene with Ross having a shave, or with demelza doing it for him ;)

Sorry for taking 20 years to answer this question! I needed to do some additional research because I didn’t notice this when I wrote about the Stocking Scene. 

The first straight razor was invented in the 1700′s by Jean Jacques Perret. Most likely, that’s what Ross would use for trimming his beard. Based on the paintings of the era, beards weren’t really fashionable for the upper classes. If you notice on Poldark, the richer men are clean shaven or only have slight 5 o’clock shadows while the miners have sizable beards. This academic article goes into detail on men’s shaving habits in the 18th Century. 

In terms of women removing their body hair, there’s also nothing new under the sun there. The only difference is what was used to remove arm, leg, and genital hairs. Some women used their husband’s straight razors. Among the French elites, the fashionable thing was using honey and wax for the 18th Century version of The Brazilian. This was referenced last season on Outlander. Fast forwarding a bit in time, there’s no body hair on the woman in this nude painting by Francisco Goya. It was painted only 6 years after where we are right now in the plot. 

Although the actresses are most likely grooming themselves using modern methods, in theory a woman in 1790′s Cornwall could wax or use a straight razor if she wanted to. It appears to be a matter of personal preference since i’m not seeing much evidence for any sort of strict standards outside of the craziness of the French royal court.