#like i understand a retinoid cream because as long as you use sunscreen/moisturize while using it then it shouldn’t really burn at all

[mabelsguidetolife]

I really didn’t know that rosewater toner was so integral to my skincare routine until i ran out, tried using ice cubes as a replacement (which failed) and then got witch hazel because i couldn’t find what i wanted, ruining the microbiome of my skin because i forgot to check that it was alcohol-free and it indiscriminately damaged my face a bit……

but now that i found it, have been using it, and remembered to use a few pimple patches for the sensitive spots, it’s healing up okay

[wintergotham]

guide to improve/build your skincare routine for good results; (+ without ruining your wallet!) @wintergotham on twitter

➡️⚠️ what matters most is the way & order you use your products + what ingredients they contain. you don’t need to buy new products for your skincare to work better. but including new & better things slowly will help tremendously ofc. & price doesn’t mean quality

the first most important things that help without buying new shit:

- hygiene (clean sheets, hands, face, towel ect..)

- being gentle (tapping, rubbing softly upwards motions, ringfinger under eyes)

- the order in which you apply your products (from thinest to thickest + you need to layer products bc one will never help your skin enough to improve)

- exfoliation for better results (explained down below)

↪️ then, you need to figure your skin out:

- what skin-type do you have (oily, dry, combination?) also your skin-type can change through the years or for different reasons like the weather or traveling.

- what are your main issues? (moisture, hyperpigmentation, acne, blackheads, blocked pores, wrinkles, dry patches, rashes etc..)

- do you have health issues + other factors that might affect your skin? (hormones, diet, or just a health problem) -> speak to your doctor about it. hormonal acne won’t be treated by products!

finally, the types of products/ingredients that you should use/include in your skincare:

— include ACTIVE ingredients (some are known as acids): depending on what you need to achieve YOU NEED to have some actives most commonly found in serums but also moisturizers & toners. some of these are:

⏩ hyaluronic acid: helps the skin retain moisture, is anti-aging and just overall plumps the skin and brightens it a a bit -> suitable for ALL skin types

⏩ glycolic acid: is an exfoliant and deep cleansing acid that often comes into toners of different strengths (7-8%). helps with a number of things

⏩ salicylic acid: helps with acne, cleaning the pores, soft exfoliation ect...

⏩ others that are exfoliating but in different ways are lactic & mandelic acids. mandelic is softer and better for sensitive skin.

⏩ vitamin C: brightens the skin are reduces hyperpigmentation & dull skin, also helps you spf work better in the morning.

⏩ retinol/retinoids (vitamin A): is a very strong active that can be irritating if used in a high percentage (2.5%). is one of the only ingredient actually proven to help with wrinkles & acne. so it’s def a must for more mature skins & must be used at night or followed by an spf because it makes the skin sensitive. (i have yet to try this!!!)

those acids and any other actives can be mixed in products for example a lactic + hyaluronic serum or a cream with glycolic & HA.

⚠️ there are many other active ingredients & acids that do other things (like niciamide + zinc that i use for acne & blocked pores or caffeine solution for pigmentation & de puffing.

they all do a lot of different things that i didn’t fully explain here so just look it up & refer to the instructions or ingredients of the products you bought. a good brand & affordable one for actives is the ordinary! they explain what each product does but most brands have more and more actives nowadays! also some of them make the skin sensitive to the sun so always use sunscreen afterward (part below of why sunscreen is important) ⚠️

▶️ acids can also come in stronger forms that will be used as peeling solutions aka stronger exfoliants aka chemical exfoliant whereas physical exfoliant would be something like a scrub ->

🍓 why exfoliation is important

it will take all the dead skin off the top layer of your skin which will:

- reduce dark spots/hyperpigmentation

- reduce textured skin

- keep your pores clean

- & MOST IMPORTANTLY will help your products sink it better & WORK better. so it will help for everything along the way.

acids are the most gentle way to exfoliate but some physical scrubs are also good. sugar & olive oil is a good DIY version! just always keep it gentle & avoid walnuts type scrubs as they are abrasive & create micro-tears into your skin because they’re not perfectly round.

— include vitamins! (based on what you need, mix them, find them in products, use some in the AM or PM ect... )

- vitamin E: hydrating, anti-aging ECT.

- vitamin C: brightening, helps with hyperpigmentation & protection to the sun

- vitamin b5: helps the skin retain moisture

- vitamin A: also known are retinols/retinoids: helps for many things and is proven to work for acne, anti-aging ect (i still havent tried it but i hear it’s quite strong so you have to start slow by diluting it or getting low percentage)

- ECT. many other ones— look it up also EAT your vitamins: in food or supplements depending on what you’re deficient in= see your docor

☀️ SUNSCREEN:

the sun is the most damaging, drying thing. it causes wrikles and makes every skin issue worst or creates it. look it up for further research but any dermatologist always recommends using spf in the AM. your skincare won’t be as effective or even work if you don’t protect your skin ESPECIALLY while using actives. spf can be included in moisturizers, foundations, powders, sprays ect so take advantage of that and still use it when there is no sun/winter time just at a lower SPF! 30-50 is good for summer and 15-30 is good for winter. just look & test & see what works for you. make sure that your SPF is both UVA (aging rays and present all year) & UVB (burning rays and less present in winter) protective.

natural ingredients:

- oils (literally all of them are amazing and they all do different things and some are better for different skintypes): some of my favorites are olive, rosehip, almond, grapeseed, squalane, jojoba, ect.) but it depends on the person & some are better for hair (like coconut)

- essential oils (tea tree)

- butters (shea, almond ect.)

- plant extracts (aloe vera)

- floral waters (rose water, orange blossom)

- ECT (i’m lazy to elaborate rn but these are often in creams and are the absolute best.) you can also DIY your own cream/oil (i always do my oils depending on how my skin is/needs so i switch up the ingredients or increase/decrease)

- glycerin & silicones are good and help for moisture retention

these are all good for you so just look at the ingredients and see if it has some of those.

extra little tips:

the order of skincare should be:

- removing makeup & dirt of the day (oil cleansing or micelar water is best. wipes are bad)

- clean with a soap (there’s bar soaps (my fav is black african and the illumination from aroma-zone aka a french brand but there’s also gel, cream, foaming cleansers ect... )

- perfect time for a clay mask or exfoliant (2-3 times a week)

- toner

- essence/sheet mask

- serum or active/treatments: i either use one or layer a couple or even mix a couple.

- moisturizer (gel-creams first then thicker ones later)

- and finally oils or butters last.

- lipbalm/lipcare n little extra steps

you don’t have to do all these steps or even can do several of the same one (for example use 2 toners & two creams n skip the rest as long as the ingredients and results are these) or you can use only a few ect. but always make sure to clean, moisturize, protect & treat with any of the things on top. don’t change/include all at once and work on making work/understanding the products you already own.

⚠️⚠️ DISCLAIMER: i’m not a professional but learned all of this from professionals. i havent spoken of every single ingredients of product just the « in depth basics » that work so if i didn’t include sometime i’m SORRY but you can still ask me or a professional or look it up.

🥀🌻🍊 THE END. hope it helps. love, nada. x @wintergotham on twitter.

[sofiess00]

How to Incorporate Retinol in Your Skin Care Routine for Best Results

Photo by Park Street on Unsplash

If you've heard of retinol, you're probably wondering what it can do for you or how to use it to enhance your skin's appearance.

What are the benefits of using retinol

Now long story short, retinol is a form of vitamin A, its useful in the maintenance of our eyesight and also keeping our skin healthy and vibrant by:

Increasing the collagen content

Reducing the signs of aging (wrinkles and lines).

Evenly distributes pigments

Helps with skin texture by smoothening the surface

Unclogs pores

One source of retinol, Retain -A was once used to battle acne, what people noticed was that it helped slow the aging process.

What are the negative effects retinol can have on the skin if you misuse it?

Now just like all beauty products, there are some things to take note of. Like the fact that retinol should be applied only at night. This is because sunlight damages your skin by increasing the amount of pigments on it. This rule is very important if you want to see good results. I personally am not a sun lover, but if you want to keep using retinol, then you need to avoid the sun too.

When to start using retinol?

A lady should start making use of retinol when she passes the age 30 bench mark. A dermatologist and director of cosmetic and clinical research at Mount Sinai Hospital Dr. Joshua Zeichner, M.D. says “In your 30s, previous sun exposure leads to collagen damage, which weakens the skin’s foundation,” so always  “make sure that you are using a topical retinoid in the evening to help stimulate collagen, strengthen the skin and minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.”

The thing with those products is that they cause your skin to dry out and sometimes turn it red. Because of this, dermatologists advice that you start of using retinol products with lower concentrations and see how your skin responds, if it responds positively then you can move to products with lower concentrations. You are advised to buy over the counter products because they are FDA approved, have low concentrations of retinol and can be used without the supervision of a medical practitioner.

How often to apply retinol

When using retinol products, Dr. Zeichner recommends using a pea sized amount for your face once a night. To give your skin enough time to adjust to the retinol, you should use it sparingly at first and with time increase the amount of times you use it. If you notice that your skin is having a bad reaction to the retinol such as irritation or dryness, then using just once a week

How To Use Retinol For The Best Results?

In order to maximize the results gotten from retinol, it has to be applied correctly, because applying too little or too much will not get you the results you are looking for. Applying too much retinol will damage your skin and applying too little will provide you with little or no results. 

The right way to apply retinol is listed below.

Here’s how to incorporate retinol into your skin care routine:

Step 1: Wash your face with water and apply eye cream; the eye cream is to protect the skin around your eyes from any damage

Step 2: Make sure your skin is dry before applying any retinol product. Because damp skin absorbs retinol more than normal which could lead to irritation. So wait a few minutes to make sure your skin is dry, we only apply moisturizers and serums to damp skin not retinol

Step 3: When applying retinol to your face, use a pea sized amount and start applying from your chin. Use your fingertips and apply using upward and outward motions.

Step 4: After application, you should also apply moisturizer

Step 5: Always use sunscreen the morning after application

The Best Skin Care Products To Use With Retinol

When using retinol it's smart not to apply any other product that could cause complications, especially if your skin is the sensitive type. Combining retinol with other products like vitamin C or alpha or beta hydroxy acids is really not a good idea as they are also potentially irritating substances. 

The best thing you can use in conjunction with retinol, according to Dr. Zeichner, is a moisturizing product, “some people even prefer to mix their retinol with a moisturizing cream to dilute it out.” You want to choose a fragrance free gentle moisturizer, such as CeraVe PM Facial Moisturizing Lotion, to mix with.

Add an oil! Oils make skin radiant. Oils like La Coéss REVITALISÉ Organic Face Oil, with Prickly Pear seed and Camellia oil help hydrate the skin and reduce any irritation caused by retinol. Apply 2 drops La Coéss face oil as the last step of my night skin care routine, I wake up with a noticeable radiant, softer skin.

One thing you should always use in the day is sunscreen, as retinol can increase your skin's sensitivity to UV light. I love to apply a layer of La Roche Posay Anthelios AOX Daily Antioxidant Serum with SPF 50 as the last step of my morning skin care routine.

What to Do When Your Skin Reacts With Retinol?

If you do experience any irritation, redness, drying, burning or flaking during your first few weeks of applying retinol, then Dr. Zeichner suggests increasing the time interval between use. He says "It takes time for your skin to adjust,” he also adds that "It also can make you more sensitive to the sun so make sure to wear a daily sunscreen.”

When To Expect Results?

If you really want to see results, then you need to be consistent in your use. Shereene Idriss, M.D., cosmetic dermatologist at Union Square Laser Dermatology and clinical instructor at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City says  “Retinol will not deliver visible results quickly, so patience is essential,”. Concerning speed of results, she adds that “Improvements in textural changes take about two to four months to start to become visible.” 

All this means is that consistency is the key.

Can You Still Exfoliate While Using Retinol?

Most people ask if they should scrub before applying retinol. My response is usually no, unless you understand your skin'. This is because scrubbing your skin sheds lot of skin cells leaving it a bit exposed and raw. Applying retinol in this condition may likely cause irritation. So even if you're going to scrub your skin while using retinol, at least do it on opposite nights.

[madhaut]

THE ROUTINE

You guys are about to get a double-post right now because a friend of mine just informed me she’s been doling out shameless blog plugs (yes, it sounded OFF writing that combination of words, too) left and right - and here I have one measley post and basically two about-me pages, so far. 

SCROLL PAST THE NEXT FOUR PARAGRAPHS TO SKIP TO SKINCARE CONTENT.

However, things brings me to an important point.... It might not be obvious yet but I am a merciless judge of my own output (projects, work, image, writing... there are more things). I picked up some invaluable insight from Ep. 1 of Abstract on Netflix. It’s subject is Christoph Niemann: German-born graphic designer, whose most recognizable work, I believe, has appeared on covers of The New Yorker. He spoke a lot about the anxiety associated with creative work due on a deadline. “How can you ask me to win the lottery with a gun to my head?” he asked. “... When I realized my fears threatened to take a toll on my work, I decided I had to deal with them. Relax! Don’t be so hard on yourself. Except, I actually totally disagree. You have to practice every day to get better. Why should it be different for me?”

His balance was to be a more careless artist, and more ruthless critic.

Obviously, the pressure and stakes are vastly different, but I can relate to the angst. I think about this blog all the time but never feel like doing it. It’s not time management. It’s not lack of interest or drive. It’s fear.

Time to LOOSEN UP!

______

LET’S TALK ABOUT THE ROUTINE.

It’s 10 steps. I know. Do you have to do 10 steps every time?

No. 

Should you? 

No. 

The “Korean 10-Step” is a way of naming a general approach to skincare which typically involves more than one step for each main phase of the skincare process: cleansing, treating, and protecting.

I will be talking a LOT about ingredients and layering (#LayerResponsibly), so if I can sum up why I subscribe to the Korean skincare approach in one sentence, it’s that this methodology forces you to consider each step and how it will interact with the ones preceding and following. 

Generally, I think Western skincare and beauty marketers have been appealing to modern women as multi-taskers who don’t have time for so many steps. So, many products sold by mainstream retailers you have seen contain both ingredients and properties of multiple steps from a Korean skincare regimen. Additionally, many of these skincare companies have patents on some compound or polymer in the formulation, which makes it harder to know what’s actually in it. 

The issue with this is when introducing a new product or active ingredient to your regimen. Let’s say you want to add a serum from The Ordinary into your daily or nightly routine. For the most part, The Ordinary’s serums zero-in on one star active ingredient (supported in some sort of delivery vehicle - i.e. powder, gel, oil, water-base, cream, etc). How will this active ingredient interact with what you already use? I get these questions all the time, and the truth is, I don’t know. Even if you tell me the name, version and year your current products were made, I often can’t figure out exactly what is in them.

For this reason, here’s a general rule of thumb - within one instance of your AM or PM routine:

Cleansing steps - Use products devoid of active/contradictive topicals. Treatment steps - #LayerResponsibly or choose a star ingredient. Protection steps - Use products devoid of active/contradictive topicals.

We’ll learn more about what’s “active” and what’s not.

Step 1. Oil cleanse. You usually want to apply oil cleanser to your dry face so it lifts off most of what’s sitting on your face. This step doubles as makeup remover. If you have makeup on, gently rub your eyes last. Yes, you should still oil cleanse in the morning. You’re going to want to clean off all of the layers you applied the night before even if you’re not wearing makeup. ;)

Step 2. Water cleanse. This is your standard foam-based or gel cleanser; usually these have some sort of detergent so that the product creates bubbles. It is ideal to use a water-based cleanser that balances the pH of your skin so your skin is not too dry/tight, and so that it is balanced if your next step is an acidic toner/treatment.

Step 3. Exfoliate. [Not every time.] You don’t want or need to exfoliate every day, and you have options: manual vs. chemical exfoliation. Manual/mechanical exfoliation means you are relying on scrubbing or scrubbers (wash cloth, textured pad, grainy/gritty substance) to physically eliminate dead skin cells, where chemical exfoliation means you’re using enzymes to banish the unnecessary by loosening the substance that holds cells together.

Step 4. Tone. Amazingly enough, you will find you swipe a cotton pad with toner across your face - and even after double-cleansing, more is picked up. Now go back to imagining not-double-cleansing. Noooooo, thank you! I like the assurance that my skin is completely clean. Toner is also about getting some moisture into your face immediately after cleansing, especially if your second cleanse does not balance your skin’s pH. 

Step 5. Essence. I had never heard of this step until exploring K-skincare. I also scoffed at the idea of an “essence” - it sounded gimmicky, and many essences have a water-like texture that makes it feel like you’re just slapping more water on your face. But adding an essence affords you your first truly moisturizing step. Essences are (should be) light, packed with nutrients and amenable for layering (not too tacky). The right essence makes your skin bouncy, youthful, and bright by plumping your skin and filling in all the little grooves -- all without adding weight.

Step 6. Treatment. SERUMS. Here’s the step where you rotate between serums with a main active ingredient depending on the time of day, time of year, time of month, or main concern at the time. Here are the most popular categories of serums, boiled down to their primary use.

Retinol/Retinoids/Vitamin A - Advanced cell turnover-ers; photo-aging and skin wrinkle combatants.

AHA/BHA Acids - Chemical exfoliants to clear pores and fight blemishes. Examples: Salicylic acid (BHA), Lactic acid (AHA), Glycolic acid (AHA)

Antioxidants - Inflammation-fighters to brighten/even skintone and help prevent acne. Examples: Vitamin C, Niacinamide, EUK, Alpha Lipoic Acid

Step 7. Sheet mask. [Not every time.] This is step 7 because the idea is a sheet mask goes on after your active serum to encourage it into the skin. For me, sheet masks replace step 5 because most are soaked in essence. So, when you’re done with a 15-20 minute sheet mask, you just discard the mask, pat the rest of the essence into your skin, and finish up. Apparently Koreans sheet mask every day and keep a full drawer of them on stand by. I don’t buy quite enough of them to sheet mask daily but this is about a twice/week step for me. 

Can I just say...? Make sure the damn thing is applied properly. Unfold the cloth fully before applying it to your face, line it up with your facial features as best you can, and smooth that sucker down so it’s flat on your face - nudge the air bubbles out! This is a not a big deal if a sheet mask is a little dangly, but, listen -- you’re already doing it. Might as well do it right.

Step 8. Eye cream. I’m betting the concept of an eye cream is already fairly well-known and accessible to any and all readers. These are special creams for your sensitive eye area. Honestly, I don’t think eye creams are magic and I think there are misconceptions about what an eye cream can actually do. Just go for one that is rich and moisturizing, but also sinks in so you’re not trying to apply makeup to an oil slick. Shiny under-eyes are not exactly en-vogue.

I begrudgingly use and recommend eye creams but there are some EYE SERUMS I can get SUPER HYPED on and will be sure to share the details with you.

Step 9. Moisturizer. Seals in all former steps; protects. You will probably want different versions for summer/winter. This step can be an emulsion, a lotion, a cream, a gel, or even (GASP) an OIL. Don’t be afraid of facial oils. 

Using oil on one’s face is another relatively, newly-accepted concept in the Western beauty/skincare marketing world. I think we can all remember for a long time, there, how oil was made out to be the ultimate enemy. Understand that oil is on and produced by your skin at all times, and it is not necessarily comedogenic. 

Step 10. SPF. [Not every time.] No need to use this at night, but yes, you need to use SPF every single day if you care about your health and/or visibly aging slowly. There are no exceptions. We’re even more photosensitive when we use strong active topicals and there are plenty of fantastic Korean sunscreens that you will WANT to wear. Link: My original source of learning on this.

______

NOTES

A. I like this blog post’s 4 principles for mixing skincare: *Use skincare with similar pH levels together. *Reserve skincare that is light-sensitive (i.e. its actives get used up by light or they make your skin sensitive to light) for night-time. *Separate skincare ingredients that have the potential to de-activate one another. *Separate skincare ingredients that work in too similar a way (i.e. one product that exfoliates with glycolic acid and another product that exfoliates/moisturizes with salicylic acid).

I see her 4 and raise a 5th: after your cleansing steps - when layering products that don’t get washed off, use them in the order of least to most viscous. I will have my own full post on The Ordinary/Deciem skincare.

B. Where do you do other masks (i.e. non sheet masks?) Depends, but usually after toning and before essence.

C. If you’re starting a brand new routine or adding an active topical, it’s commonly accepted that there can be a “purging” period where you actually break out a little more while your skin is adjusting (and becoming more clean than ever before).

D. It’s fun to have a set routine or set of routines, but once you get to know which ingredients and products work well together and which shouldn’t be mixed, I would not stick to a set regimen where you HAVE to do routine A versus routine B. Go with what your skin needs. Even with knowledge, discipline and a kick-ass arsenal, what your skin needs does not follow a plan.

______

Alright... cool... that should do it for now. Stay tuned for more and please contact me with questions, concerns, consultation requests (free), and the like.

tschüß!

In good skin health,

Maddie

Last Night: Hylamide High-Efficiency Face Cleaner (Oil cleanser) GLAMGLOW Supercleanse (Water cleanser) T.N. Dickinson’s Astringent, 100% Natural, Witch Hazel (Toner) Neogen Real Ferment Micro Essence (Essence) The Ordinary 100% L-Ascorbic Acid Powder mixed with The Ordinary Marine Hyaluronics (Treatment/serum) NIOD Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate (Eye serum) Klairs Rich Moist Soothing Cream mixed with The Ordinary Retinol 1% in Squalane (Moisturizer) Missha Misa Geum Sul Vitalizing Eye Cream (Eye cream) This Morning: Hylamide High-Efficiency Face Cleaner (Oil cleanser) Neogen Real Fresh Cranberry Foam Cleanser (Water cleanser) The Ordinary AHA BHA Peeling Solution (Exfoliant) NIOD Mastic Must (Pore mask) NIOD Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate (Eye serum) Dr. Loren Pickart Super CP Serum (Treatment/serum) The Ordinary Marine Hyaluronics (Essence) Missha Misa Geum Sul Vitalizing Eye Cream (Eye cream) The Ordinary Natural Moisturizing Factors mixed with  Missha Waterproof Sun Milk SPF 50+/PA+ (Moisturizer + SPF)