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randomfoggytiger · 7 months ago

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Kitchener Essences: David Duchovny

Already tackled Gillian Anderson's essence here, so, it's David's turn!

John Kitchener, like Kibbe, created his system on top of the yin-yang methodology other stylists were constructing in the early 20th century. Yet instead of focusing on the body's structure as a whole (Kibbe's method), Kitchener zeroed in on the face: particularly, its holistic expression.

ESSENCES AND THE ENTERTAINMENT INDUSTRY

(Credit to: Ellie-Jean Royden)

I'd previously written a post about the Feminine vs. Masculine balance in David Duchovny's face (post here); but found, as I was working on this project, that that method and the Kitchener method overlap each other. Both assess the yin (soft, rounded, curved lines) and yang (sharp, narrow or blunt, chiseled lines) of a person's face; and draw up a general impression others would have of them at a neutral first glance.

These tools may not appeal to everyone; but boy do they work hand and glove in the entertainment industry. Actors can disguise their natural essence in a role by embodying another person; can tone down their masculine vs. feminine balance with hair, makeup, and styling; and can lean into their natural aura for promotion and marketing. Of course, there is some degree of typecasting-- it would be harder (or impossible) for a person with Gamine Essence (smaller facial features with dynamic odds and ends) to pull off an Ethereal Essence (long, sleek, elongated, elegant lines) than it would for an Ethereal to pull off a Dramatic Essence (as Cate Blanchett did for Thor: Ragnarök.) This system also effectually proves Kibbe's warning: one cannot evaluate a person's Kibbe body type by the face alone-- Ingenue Leonardo DiCaprio and Classic (if I recall) Colin Firth are both Romantics, after all. Similarly, 5'2" Kibbe Theatrical Romantic Gillian Anderson and 5'10" Kibbe Dramatic Tilda Swinton share a striking Ethereal Essence.

**Note**: If you don't care to ingest the full post, skip straight to the DAVID DUCHOVNY header for his analysis.

DECODING KITCHENER ESSENCES FOR MEN

As per my first Essence post, I will be including transcripts and screenshots from Ellie-Jean Royden's video on the topic (here). Also, highly recommend Gabriella Arruda, who has a more practical, everyday wear approach to the Essences (as well as excellent videos combining them with the Kibbe Body Types-- my posts on GA's and DD's Kibbe here and here, respectively-- and seasonal color analysis.)

Dramatic

The Most Yang Dominant (strong features)-- sharp, narrow, long, hard. Defined by: danger, wildness, boldness, theatrical, dark, extravagant, intense, dignified. Dramatic faces tend to have three or more elongated and “hard” traits: high and dominant cheekbones, long faces, sharp jawlines, sharp noses, slightly narrow eyes, narrow lips.

Dramatics look best in sharp, tailored clothes; in bold, extravagant, theatrical styles; …in unconventional or unusual patterns; in asymmetry or straight lines; …in unusual textures or dangerous styles (leather, for example.)

Natural

Yang Dominant (strong features)-- blunt, wide, broad, and elongated…instead of elongated, sharp, harsh (you might see men with Dramatic Essence as the villain in a movie… Natural Essence tends to be… the hero of the film.) Defined by: relaxed, earthy, sporty, active, wild, easygoing, approachable, rugged (...chopping a tree down or hacking a block of wood ready for a fire.)

They look best in simple, comfortable, relaxed clothes. They tend to look formal in the most casual and simple styles; whereas… in a suit, they tend to look quite constrained…. Jeans and a t-shirt… don’t look casual or sloppy… looks like it belongs…. Look good in loose fitting; sturdy, oversized sort of styles. Anything with unstructured shapes, layering, or denim.

Gamine

Yang Dominant (strong features)-- sharp or angular features, with some youthful elements (large and soft eyes, or slightly wide and soft noses, or slightly rounded cheekbones with a sharp jaw and narrow eyes.) Defined by: quirky, rebellious, whimsical, youthful (but not as youthful as Ingenue Essence), boyish, playful, fun. Like a Dramatic in some ways… with a youthful undercurrent to them.

They look really good when poking fun at fashion. They look good in mix-n-match or retro styles. They look good in bold colors or unusual patterns. High contrast; quite cool in rolled up jeans or “teenager” hoodies. They look good in lots of detail and compact styles and maybe some whimsical elements.

Classic

Neither Yang nor Yin Dominant (symmetrically balanced features)-- in the middle, not particularly sharp or soft; timeless, neutral features (no defining characteristic features.) Defined by: clean, timeless, elegant, sophisticated, formal, conservative.

They look best in minimal details, allowing their own beauty to shine through. They look good in smooth and controlled lines. They become more memorable as everything else is "stripped" away. They look good in timeless looks-- it doesn't look boring or outdated; tends to look very elegant and chic. You could even describe them as looking regal... in these styles. They look good in symmetry, balance, neutral colors, and quality fabrics.

Romantic

Yin Dominant (soft features)-- soft, round facial features; smouldering eyes; lush lips; slightly narrow jaws; round cheeks or slightly wide noses; often have dark hair and high contrast (like Dramatics, except with shorter, softer lines.) Defined by: sensual, alluring, lush, romantic.

They look good in soft, lush fabrics (like velvet.) Look best in bowties over long ties. They might look good in something a little undone, looser fabrics, softer fabrics. In red or lush colors. In large, rounded patterns. Jewels or jewel tones.

Ingenue

Yin Dominant (soft features)-- baby-like faces (lots of Hollywood male heartthrobs are Ingenues, ex. Leo DiCaprio); small, slightly wide noses; rounder eyes; round cheekbones; plump but smallish lips; rounded and shorter faces. Defined by: sweet looking, innocent, gentle, delicate, adorable, youthful (less “boudoir” than Romantics in the same styles.)

They look best in delicate and small details. Whimsical styles; in anything vintage; in pastel or pale colors; in decorative styles like small floral prints or things that hark back to another era. They look really good in ornate, intricate sort of things. And of course, with soft, delicate fabrics. These men look much better in a bow tie than in a long tie because this mimics their short, rounded facial features.

Ethereal

The Most Yin Dominant (soft features)-- a meeting between yin and yang features. They have elongated faces; some sharp facial features like cheekbones or high foreheads, but with rounded or slightly wide set eyes or soft lips. (Not blending their yin and yang together like Classic, or contrasting it like Gamines.) Defined by: pure, wise, timeless, otherworldly, ageless, old souls, uncanny, celestial (tend to be cast in fantasy roles.)

They look really good in metallics; soft, lightweight, fluttery fabrics; vintage or period pieces with… fantastical, ornate, intricate elements. Too many overdone details tips into caricature; instead, they could opt for gray instead of black, or create a long visual line down with their hair.

DAVID DUCHOVNY

Let's start from the top: discovering what are David's worst essences.

What David Isn't

Dramatic

Dramatic is the worst Essence for DD, turning his flare for the "out there" into costume and caricature, wearing him instead of the other way 'round. As such, he often hams up his poses or expressions to better match the energy of the shot, transforming it from avant-garde fashion to tongue-in-cheek performance art.

Gamine

David is drawn to pizzazz, to bold colors, to unique styles. There's a part of his nature that responds to it-- which is easy to see why, when we explore his primary Essence. However: he walks right by the most flattering option to snatch up the second worst.

He's a handsome man, no doubt... but even his looks can't save him from the consequences of his dilapidated fashion sense. Youthful vibes very well with David; but he jumps upon an "aha!" too vigorously, overdoing it with more and more funky, punky, spiky, mismatchy elements. Not even his Kibbe can save him: if he'd been Romantic or Gamine instead of Soft Natural, his shorter bones might have been able to more effectively cover up the disjointed effect.

The bottom rows can be salvageable, as his hairstyle would be dependent on what outfit he wore with it. But even at face value, there's something off about too much tousle either way. The bland-for-him Classic Essence shirt in the last picture doesn't help matters.

Classic

Classic is not the worst on David; but it's not the best, either.

Minimal detail on David tends to wash out his unique charm, burying it under too much finish or polish. The suit in the first picture appears to have been purposefully bought a size up in an attempt to "soften" the silhouette on DD (without success); and the second is too pinched and narrow in the shoulders and too widening and tailored at the hips (a typical Classic silhouette composed of equal parts yin and yang.) The two gray shirts, however, are better: they fit the lines of his body (Kibbe), are Medium Value gray (an aspect of his seasonal color analysis), and are better accessorized with tiny details (buttons and pockets.) Steps in the right direction, but not a complete victory.

Romantic

David's styling and poses are overtly sexual here; but the result is more akin to off-the-clock lounging than reach-into-your-heart-through-your-eyes-and-consume-your-soul sensuality. Put more concisely, his sexy isn't boudoir or bodice ripper.

The top pose is the most off-kilter; but the second row's pictures are all salvageable. David's neutral expression in the first pic changes the effect into steamy relaxation; his pose and delicate elements in the second turns the shot into something fresh and almost soulful; and his luxuriously soft hair and pajamas in the third reads as one clean, complete look. The last two particularly are mixed with his primary and secondary Essences.

What David Is

Natural

Maybe. Not discounting the possibility.

It wouldn't be a surprise: David is a Kibbe Soft Natural; and there is definite overlap between its lines and Kitchener's Essence. However: David can only handle teeny tiny amounts of it. Too much and he looks like a clean-shaven homeless man wearing the wealthy neighborhood's overpriced hand-me-downs instead of his old, gunky, raggedy hoodie. That, or a struggling artist.

The top left look is salvageable: his glasses are a complimentarily small detail, his sleeves are rolled up above the wrists, his hair isn't too wild or unkempt, and his pants aren't visible in the shot. Not the best, but definitely not the worst.

Ethereal

The gray shirt's back! That's because, despite the intent of the shot, the end result is an Ethereal Essence come to life: long, luxurious, draping silhouette; lower contrast grey instead of a harsher, richer color like black; and shadowy, "otherworldly" set dressing.

David's first two looks are from the same photoshoot. The metallic sheen in his suit and Ethereal graphic on his shirt turn this look from a classic silhouette into a statement piece, one that perfectly accords with David's blink-and-you'll-miss-it expression and understated-overstated drama.

However: it's not his best Essence: lines that are too flowy or too long or too "flyaway" jar slightly with his persona-- not quite messy, but not quite right.

Ingenue

David's best Essence is Ingenue-- and no wonder. Even early on his career, fans were calling him a puppy and wanting to take care of him.

His sensuality is expressed by irrepressible innocence, that element of childishness he misinterprets as Gamine's boyishly spunky, eternally youthful spark. With that in mind, he should focus on softer details instead-- not replacing his funky inclinations so much as tempering them. Funk on a smaller, scale: delicate ornateness instead of jagged edges and opposing prints; repeatable patterns instead of differing styles mashed together. David should also lean into buttons, comfy textured fabrics, and bowties to match the tiny, repeated curves in his face.

COMPARING OTHER SOFT NATURAL ESSENCES

Let's test out his Ingenue Essence.

How shall we do that? By comparing him to other men that share his same Kibbe Soft Natural body type.

Dramatic Essence: None

I don't have a Dramatic SN to compare; but i think we can all conclude that this Essence doesn't scream 'David Duchovny.'

Natural Essence: Brad Pitt and Robert Redford

Brad and Robert are put together and at ease in differing levels of "dishevelment." David, though more "himself", does not (even with the same level of tailoring and styling care in the first photo as Brad.)

Gamine Essence: Gene Kelly

Gene comes alive in bold, expressive, potentially clashing elements. David, however, looks mismatched and uncomfortable.

Classic Essence: John Wayne

While John shines with minimal detail, David becomes flat.

Romantic Essence: George Clooney

Here we can see George's effortless romanticism and David's endearing Ingenue charm radiating from their pores.

Ingenue Essence: Bing Crosby

With both of their hair slicked up and back, it's too easy to spot the shared tiny, delicate aspects dominating Bing's and David's face. Bing's bowtie and David's small-scale tie further accentuate these features, as do their softer profiles and lower contrast.

Ethereal Essence: None

Again, I was unable to find a Kibbe approved Soft Natural that fit the Ethereal requirements. However, I did find DD in an Ethereal shirt and studio set; so, let us gaze upon it, note it works but not fully, and move along.

COMPARING TWO INGENUE ESSENCES

To further prove the Ingenue theory, we can compare him against Kibbe Romantic Elijah Wood's Ingenue Essence. Both have smaller scale facial features, softer lines, and softer silhouettes. They are also complimented very naturally by smaller scale accessories, smaller scale repeating patterns, smaller scale soft tailoring, and smaller scale bowties (compared to their regular ones.) These touches tap into and bring out their "cute" undercurrent easily and effectively.

ALL TOGETHER

CONCLUSION

Ingenue-Ethereal, perhaps Ingenue-Ethereal-Natural. Not bad!

It makes sense why he and Gillian sold The X-Files: the softened bluntness of his Kibbe created a striking visual contrast against her narrow, sharp Kibbe while their close percentages of Ethereal Essence knit those differences back together in an otherworldly, mythical pursuit of the truth (be it men, monsters, or insane work hours.)

Meanwhile, David is drawn to characteristic detail, unfortunately expressing that dynamic essence through Gamine rather than its perfect twin Ingenue. Furthermore, his love of long, less-restrictive lines is also misplaced in the Natural Essence, whereas it would be right at home in the equally less restrictive but also softer and sleeker Ethereal Essence.

Thanks for reading~

Enjoy!

#txf #but not #randomfashiontiger #DD #David Duchovny #Kitchener Essence #John Kitchener #mine #analysis

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