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A Ghost in the Room: The Haunted History of Rocky Hill Castle
Multiple spirits were said to have wandered this eerie Alabama estate, including one spectral figure who may have been caught on camera.
Though sadly no longer standing, Rocky Hill Castle was once one of the strangest and grandest pieces of architecture in Alabama. It was also known as one of the state’s most haunted locations.
Built between 1858 and 1861, Rocky Hill Castle was a plantation house built for James Edmonds Saunders to replace his previous home that had stood on the grounds since the 1820s. It is said that Saunders demolished his old dwelling and oversaw the construction of Rocky Hill Castle because he wanted a “grander dwelling.” Clearly, he accomplished his goal.
Built using a combination of Greek Revival and Italianate architecture, the interior of Rocky Hill boasted some of the most elaborate wood and plaster work in the state. Perhaps the most striking feature of the entire mansion, however, was the five-story Gothic Revival tower—complete with battlements—that connected to the house through a high stone wall with a dramatic Tudor arch. The octagonal tower reportedly housed Saunders’ slaves, and it is said that he stood on its top floor to shout out orders and survey his lands.
The architect or architects of Rocky Hill are unknown, but one of the best-known ghost stories surrounding the plantation—as told in Thirteen Alabama Ghosts and Jeffrey—claims that the house was built by a Frenchman, and Saunders had refused to pay his bill. Shortly thereafter, the architect died. His ghost then returned to haunt the estate, chipping away at the foundation in the cellar. As the story goes, the sounds of this ghostly hammering echoed from the lower levels of Rocky Hill for as long as the house stood.
After James Saunders died, ownership of Rocky Hill was passed through the family before ending in the hands of Dr. Dudley Saunders, James Edmonds Saunders’ grandson. The doctor did not stay long. According to local lore, he and his family abandoned the house in the 1920s, due to the ghostly activity that took place within its walls. One account tells of a frustrated Mrs. Saunders who demanded that if any spectral entities were present they should speak up or hold their peace. A phantom voice bellowed in her ear: “Madam, I’m right here!” The family is said to have packed up and fled within hours.
Rocky Hill slipped into a state of disrepair after the departure of the doctor and his family. Its final owner demolished the structure in 1961. Before the destruction, Alex Bush photographed Rocky Hill Castle in 1935, as part of the Historic American Buildings Survey. According to some observers, Bush’s photographs captured evidence of ghostly phenomena, including a fairly clear image of a man’s face and collared shirt.
Indeed, Rocky Hill had accumulated a wealth of spectral rumors long before the eerie photographs were taken. Stories circulated of a Lady in Blue who had come searching for her lost lover and was seen on the stairwell and in the wine cellar. Others reported the clanking of chains and the ghosts of Civil War soldiers. The house did serve as a hospital during the Civil War, and several Confederate soldiers were buried in the nearby Saunders family cemetery. A man who lived in a cabin near the house claimed to hear the mansion’s piano playing by itself, while other tales spoke of illicit slave trading and a secret tunnel that ran from the cellar of Rocky Hill Castle to the Tennessee River.
Whatever the truth of Rocky Hill’s ghostly past, today nothing remains. Visitors searching for the once-striking building will find only the packed earth of an empty field just a few miles from the tiny town of Courtland.
#rocky hill castle#Alabama#Alabama estate#paranormal#ghosts#ghost photography#paranormal photography#creepy#spirit photography#ghost#ghost photos#spirit
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Six European-Inspired Wedding Venues In Portland For Retro-Style Weddings
Are you fond of European architecture and want to host a Bridgerton-style wedding? Portland is the best place for you if you are an Oregon resident. Destination weddings have been popular in Portland, with scenic backdrops and contemporary-styled cultural hubs.
It is expected that Portland is a concrete jungle, and hosting weddings will be more about glass ceilings and driveways. But that’s not all. Portland is a hub of European-inspired wedding venues perfect for a retro-styled wedding.
If you are getting married in Portland, this blog can be your top guidance provider. Usually, wedding photographers are the first choice, but do you know that photo booth rentals can be your ideal entertaining addition?
We have handpicked seven European-styled wedding venues that can create a perfect fairy-tale wedding.
6 European-themed Wedding Venues You Would Love
Benson Hotel
The first choice for a European-styled wedding in Portland is the Benson Hotel. The 100-year-old wooden doors, Italian marble, and Austrian crystal chandelier make this place perfect for your retro-style wedding.
You can capture your best wedding moments under the historic chandeliers with monochromatic shades, pretending they are from a bygone time.
Villa Catalana Cellars
Tuscan-themed weddings are hosted at Villa Catalana Cellars, one of the most aesthetic yet affordable wedding venues in Portland. The European-inspired vineyards will take you on an Italian tour alongside the Greek-style stone pillars, adding a perfect touch.
You can exchange vows near the Greek pillars and host a small gathering in the nearby Greenhouse. Moreover, delightful wine packages are also available from the vineyards, making them perfect for a luxurious wedding.
Del Mar Villa Dundee
This 26,000 sq ft. villa is built over 46 acres of land in the heart of Oregon Wine Country. It offers various options, such as garden patios, a grand ballroom, and a main entrance to the pool area.
Hundreds of acres of hazelnut and blueberry vineyards surround the Del Mar Villa, parts of which are rented for temporary events. You can host your outdoor reception in the private gathering spaces, with a glass of wine prepared right from the vineyards.
The Sentinel
The Sentinel is Oregon’s most grand and historic hotel and is perfect for hosting European-styled weddings. If you are getting married in Portland and want to host a grand wedding, choose this place to create everlasting memories.
The Governor Ballroom can host approximately 450 to 500 guests at once. You can also provide your guests with luxurious accommodation, quite like an Estate Lord from an English countryside organizing a grand wedding party.
Chateau Herbe
Chateau Herbe is a magnificent estate built in the French architectural style on over 24 acres of land. It features a striking koi pond, manicured lawns, and a beautiful pergola. The stoned driveway seems perfect for parking a 1930s Ford Deluxe.
With the Fench windows in the background and the oak orchards nearby, your wedding photos will look like they are from retro Hollywood.
Chateau De Lis
Many people grew up dreaming of getting married in a castle, and Chateau De Lis can make this dream come true. The architectural style resembles about 300-year-old European structural designs. Despite this, it is one of the most affordable wedding venues in Portland.
With Chateau De Lis, you can capture beautiful moments near the lake alongside the retro backdrop of a French-style wedding venue.
Final Thoughts
The right wedding venue can transform even the simplest of moments with Insta-worthy carousels. You can opt for the above wedding venues to experience luxury and beauty at the same time. Try photo booth buses, that come with props and customizable themes to add entertainment for your guests.
Apart from embracing the emotion attached to your wedding vows, maybe it's time to feel the ambiance of Portland’s most beautiful wedding venues.
#Getting Married#Getting Married in Portland#Affordable Wedding Venues#Affordable Wedding Venues Portland
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Brunate has been recognized as one of the Langhe’s most important cru zones since the 1300s.
#barolo#brunate#piedmont#italian wine#nebbiolo#wine cellar#photographers on tumblr#photography#original post#original photographers#wine photo#wine photography
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Herman Uihlein House For Sale, Milwaukee
Beer Mansion For Sale, Milwaukee, Wisconsin Luxury Real Estate Development, US Building Photos
Herman Uihlein House in Milwaukee
May 3, 2021
Beer Mansion
Herman Uihlein House in Milwaukee for sale priced at $6.95 million
Location: Milwaukee, Wisconsin, United States
Source: www.toptenrealestatedeals.com
Milwaukee is known as the Beer Capital of the World, but the quality of the beer wasn’t the only reason. Instead, its reputation was achieved through its proximity to beer-drinking Chicago, cheap lake-shipping transportation, and the aggressive business styles of its brewers.
The success of the beer tycoons was apparent in the mansions built from their fortunes such as the Herman Uihlein House on Lake Michigan’s Whitefish Bay built in 1917 for the son of the president of Schlitz Brewery. Before the home was built, the property was the site of the Pabst (Beer) Whitefish Bay Resort with a restaurant, round beer bar with lake views, and a Ferris wheel. The Herman Uihlein House is now for sale at $6.95 million.
In 1849, Welsh settlers opened Milwaukee’s first brewery and named it Milwaukee Brewery. A German competitor opened a second brewery and more followed. It became home to some of the country’s largest brewers such as Pabst, Schlitz, Miller and Blatz. Schlitz became known as Milwaukee’s namesake beer and was known as “The beer that made Milwaukee famous.” It was advertised with the slogan “When you’re out of Schlitz, you’re out of beer.”
The Herman Uihlein House was built on three acres on a low bluff at the edge of Lake Michigan, a couple miles north of Downtown Milwaukee; a combination of Italian Renaissance and Beaux Arts architectural styles.
Placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1983, the 13,717-square-foot, two-story house has nine bedrooms and eight baths. Many upgrades have been undertaken since 2018, including a new kitchen, new boiler, new air conditioning system, and elegant new surface materials.
Rooms include public formal rooms, a library, billiards room, fitness center, home theater, staff quarters and wine cellar. There are also four fireplaces, a wet bar and underfloor heating. Floors are hardwood and marble.
The estate’s landscape design is symmetrical in form and sits in the middle of the property with a long reflecting pool in the front. The rear landscaping focuses on the big Lake Michigan water views. There are terraced walkways and steps leading to the water’s edge and more steps going into the water.
The mansion is designed with entertaining in mind, whether intimate or hosting a large group. One of the home’s owners in the 1990s was Warren Buffet’s Emmy-award-winning son, Peter Buffet, who composed music for Kevin Costner’s Dances with Wolves in a recording studio he had installed in the home.
Beer is still a big deal in Milwaukee with Miller Beer, now officially Molson Coors, employing about 1,500 cheeseheads and pumping out over 7 million barrels of beer a year.
Although the city’s other two big beer kingpins, Schlitz and Pabst, have left Milwaukee for L.A., both beers reigned at different times as America’s most popular brand.
The names are still seen everywhere in Milwaukee, including the popular Pabst Mansion Museum in Downtown Milwaukee and the Brewhouse Inn which is now a boutique hotel located in the former Pabst brewery building, just west of Downtown. Not too far from Schlitz Park where the “The beer that made Milwaukee famous” was once made. And, of course, the Milwaukee Brewers MLB baseball team plays nearby at their field, formerly known as Miller Park.
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YouTube Credit: Sean Evans, @evvo1991 backtothemovies.com/
The Herman Uihlein House, built for the son of the president of Schlitz Beer, is now on the market at $6.95 million. Listing agents are Peter Mahler and Paul Handle of Mahler Sotheby’s International Realty, Milwaukee, Wisconsin.
Photo credit: VRX Media Group and Rangeline Photography
Source: www.sothebysrealty.com
Herman Uihlein House For Sale, Milwaukee images / information received 030521
Wisconsin Buildings
Wisconsin Architecture
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SC Johnson Headquarters, Racine, Milwaukee County Design: Frank Lloyd Wright Architect photo : Iwan Baan, Courtesy the Chicago Architecture Biennial SC Johnson Headquarters Racine by Frank Lloyd Wright
Fox Point House, Milwaukee County, Wisconsin, United States Design: Johnsen Schmaling Architects photograph : John J. Macaulay New house at Fox Point
Fortaleza Hall, Racine Design: Foster + Partners photo : James Steinkamp_Steinkamp Photography S C Johnson Headquarters Wisconsin : S C Johnson Headquarters campus
The Usonian Inn, Wisconsin River Valley, WI Design: J C Caraway architect photo from The Usonian Inn The Usonian Inn Wisconsin
Brittlebush, Taliesin, the Frank Lloyd Wright School of Architecture Design: Simón De Agüero picture from architect Brittlebush
Arado WeeHouse Design: Alchemy Architects image from architects Prefabricated House – Prefabricated Modular Vacation Retreat
Wisconsin Institutes for Medical Research Building Design by HOK with Zimmerman Architectural Studios, Inc. photo from architects Wisconsin Institutes for Medical Research Building
Wisconsin Architecture by architect Frank Lloyd Wright
S. C. Johnson Administration Building, Racine 1936
S. C. Johnson Research Tower, Racine – aka Johnson Wax Research Tower 1944/47
Taliesin III, Spring Green 1911-25/38
Unitarian Church, Shorewood Hills 1947
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Comments / photos for the Herman Uihlein House, Milwaukee page welcome
Website: Wisconsin
The post Herman Uihlein House For Sale, Milwaukee appeared first on e-architect.
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Chapter 10
Auf Wiedersehen, Sweetheart by George deValier
Feliciano ran down the dirt track, onto the road and into the field. Lightning streaked the dark sky and thunder crashed loudly, almost deafening as it echoed between the mountains. In only seconds Feliciano was soaked through by the pouring rain, but he barely noticed. All he could feel was an aching throb in his chest, a hopeless despair that threatened to crush him, the brief warmth on his cheeks before his tears turned cold with the freezing wind. But he did not stop. He couldn't. He couldn't see how anything could ever be all right again and he just wanted to run, to run far away. To run somewhere there was no Germany and no England and no Italy, where there was no one to hate and no one to fight. Somewhere sides did not exist and he could lie in green fields with Ludwig, picking flowers and laughing and playing soccer and sitting hand in hand against an oak tree beneath a golden sun. One of their places where they could be somewhere else. But this was the world, and this was war, and Ludwig was gone. He was gone, and Feliciano would never have that somewhere else, and he wanted to fall down and scream from the pain of it.
Feliciano ran past the familiar burnt out tank and realised with a jolt that he had been running to the oak tree this entire time. He headed towards it, unable to turn away, unable to think of anywhere else in the entire world that he needed to be right now. He wanted that place, wanted the memories and the joy and the pain and everything, all of it, because it was all he had left. But as he drew closer to the tree he noticed, through the rain and his tears, with a clenching pull to his chest, that someone was standing beneath it. He did not dare to think. He did not dare to hope. Feliciano could not see properly through the dark and the rain but as he slowed down to a hesitant walk his body thrummed with a burning, pounding, inevitable beat. And then he stopped. The thunder could have come crashing down around him and he would not have noticed. Because nothing else existed. Because Ludwig was standing there, as though nothing had ever happened, as though this was any other beautiful afternoon spent forgetting the world and meeting under their oak tree. When everything finally came back, when Feliciano could feel his flashing heartbeat lurch in his chest, he ran. So did Ludwig. And they did not stop until they reached each other.
"I'm sorr..." but Feliciano did not finish the sentence because Ludwig grasped his waist, pulled him close, and with a shuddering gasp he desperately pressed his lips to Feliciano's.
And then it didn't matter. Sides, and countries, and loyalties, and all of those unimportant things. What anyone else had said; what anyone else thought. None of it mattered. Everything was all right now. Feliciano's heart soared with joy, every aching pang of grief and sorrow washed away by this moment. Because Ludwig was with him, was kissing him, was holding him like he was all that existed in the entire world.
Feliciano didn't know how long they stayed like that, lips sliding on rain soaked skin, hands clutching each other like if they let go they would fall. And he didn't know how to breathe or to move or to think and he didn't know if he was crying or laughing or both. Finally their lips parted and Ludwig gasped, ran a shaking hand over Feliciano's cheek. "I'm so sorry. I'm so, so sorry, Feliciano…"
"You were never a mission!" Feliciano cried immediately, desperate to make Ludwig hear him this time. "I was never working against you, the resistance had nothing to do…"
Ludwig shook his head, almost laughing. "Oh God, Feliciano, I know that! I was stunned, and I was stupid, how could I ever think that…"
"It doesn't matter," Feliciano gasped, whispered, laughed, shouted joyfully. He couldn't even tell.
"I didn't mean those things." Ludwig touched both his hands to Feliciano's cheeks. His eyes were as dark as the sky, his cheeks wet with the rain. "Please forgive me for saying them. I would never hurt you, or your family. I would never let anyone hurt you."
Feliciano nodded, unsure how to handle the stunning happiness that flooded his veins, his heart, his head. "I know! I know, Ludwig, and it doesn't matter now, just… just tell me I'm not dreaming, and that you're here, and…"
"I'm here, Feliciano. I'm here with you."
Feliciano laughed in relief and reached up for Ludwig, for his lips, his hands, for all of him, to feel him and know this was real. It did not feel like only one afternoon they had been separated, and it was impossible to believe that only moments ago the world had been ending when now it was bright and beautiful and made whole again. It felt like a second, like a lifetime before they broke the kiss for air, laughing and panting and staring in disbelief. "But why are you here, Ludwig?" Feliciano ran his hands over Ludwig's chest, tried to convince himself he wasn't dreaming. It was too hard to believe. "What are you doing out here in the storm?"
"I didn't know where else to go. I got to my base and I realised that I'd just made the biggest mistake of my life. I turned around and came back, right after..." Ludwig choked off, then recovered to deliver the words evenly. "After I informed my General of the attack tomorrow." Feliciano's blistering happiness tainted just slightly. But he had expected it.
"I know you had to tell them, Ludwig. Because you're good, and you're fair, and you would not let them be attacked unknowingly. And you love your country."
"I'd let it burn for you," Ludwig whispered, then kissed him again, deep and thorough and searing, until Feliciano forgot about feeling anything but uncontainable joy once again. He didn't even notice the rain or the gusting wind or the crashing thunder until he started shivering and Ludwig gently pulled away. "You should not be outside in this freezing rain."
Feliciano felt a brief flash of panic. Ludwig could not leave him again... He grasped Ludwig's hand and pulled before Ludwig had time to suggest it. "Come on."
To Feliciano's relief, Ludwig followed easily, without a moments hesitation. "Where are we going?"
"Somewhere out of this rain!" Feliciano laughed.
"But where can we possibly…"
"Follow me, I know a place."
They ran through the freezing wind and pouring rain, Feliciano leading, his heart pounding and his head spinning, his every thought and feeling tied to the touch of Ludwig's hand clasped in his. He squeezed it, glanced up at Ludwig to make sure this was real, and laughed joyfully when Ludwig squeezed back, smiling.
Feliciano had not been there for years, but he found his way to the old barn on the edge of the field easily. It was barely used these days except for storage, but there was not much left after years of war. Feliciano pushed open the creaky door and they both raced in, grateful, out of the storm. Feliciano shook the rain from his face and hair, not releasing Ludwig's hand, and glanced around the musty barn. The place was almost silent but for the pounding of the rain on the roof. Only a trickle of afternoon light seeped through from outside, just enough to make out the low hay-covered bunk cut below the wooden hayloft, the racks of wine and olive oil stacked in shelves, the old fireplace against the wall. Ludwig raised his eyebrows, quite taken aback. "Uh... there's a... why is there a fireplace in this barn?"
Feliciano shrugged. "Grandpa built this place, years ago. He said he spent some of the best nights of his life in here. He says if it wasn't for this barn Lovino and I wouldn't be here. I really don't know why, I mean, it's just a barn. But at least it's dry!" Feliciano shivered violently and Ludwig rubbed his arms briskly.
"Gott, you're so cold. Will this old fireplace work? Is there firewood in here anywhere?"
"I think it will work... gosh, I hope it will work. There's some wood by the wall there."
Ludwig walked to the fireplace and swiftly got to work with the kindling and firewood while mumbling to himself, something that sounded like, "A fireplace in a barn, these mad Italians..."
Feliciano shivered again and immediately started removing his soaking clothes. There was no way they were going to dry on his body, and he was freezing. He took off his jacket carefully, disappointed that he had managed to ruin both his jackets today. He had only swapped them this afternoon after soaking his other in the rain that morning. As he slipped it over his shoulders he felt something in the inner pocket brush his hand. He reached in curiously and his eyes widened when he realised what it was. The photographs he had taken with Ludwig, the ones Lovino had noticed in the cellar. He remembered thrusting them into his pocket when Grandpa Roma had entered the room... he hadn't even thought of them since. They were relatively unscathed from the rain, just a bit wet, so Feliciano placed them on a shelf above the olive oil to dry and draped his wet jacket over an old barrel.
Feliciano started unhooking his braces as he looked over at Ludwig by the fireplace. He had started the fire so quickly; he was obviously used to it, but then of course, it was so cold in Germany. Ludwig closed the screen, the fire already crackling and flaring. He stood, brushing off his hands. "There, that should warm..." Ludwig broke off as he turned around, his eyes widening in alarm. "What are you doing?"
"I'm taking my clothes off!"
Ludwig looked like he could not think of a single way to respond to that. He just gaped for a few moments before managing to choke out, "Why?"
Feliciano furrowed his eyebrows. Wasn't it obvious... "Because they are wet, and I am cold. Here, you have to take yours off too." He stepped towards Ludwig and started unbuttoning his grey military jacket. Ludwig looked too shocked to stop him.
"How many of them?" His voice was slightly panicked.
"All of them! Or else you will freeze and then you'll catch a cold and then you'll die and I will be very, very, very sad." Feliciano slid Ludwig's jacket over his shoulders before pulling his own shirt over his head. Ludwig just stared. "Now sit down and take your boots off or your feet will get cold."
"Oh. Oh, all right..." Ludwig sat on the hay covered bunk, slightly dazed, and Feliciano flopped down beside him and started pulling off his own boots. Mad, delirious happiness still flooded his veins and he felt like he could start laughing at any moment. And yet he was also oddly nervous, almost excited, his heart thundering madly and his stomach twisting strangely, pleasantly. Unsure of this nervous feeling, Feliciano just kept talking as he and Ludwig both kicked off their boots, the growing fire starting to warm their skin.
"You don't want to get frostbite because then you'll lose your toes and you won't be able to walk and I'll have to push you around in a wheelchair, not that I'd mind, of course. Only there's a lot of hills around here and I don't know if I could push you all the way to town every day. Here, Ludwig, your shirt is soaked through..." Feliciano reached up for Ludwig's shirt, unbuttoned it past the iron cross at his neck, down his chest, then finally slid it over his shoulders and down his arms. Then Feliciano paused. For a moment he just looked, his breath coming faster, the nervous twisting in his stomach shooting up his spine. "Oh." He tried to swallow but found his throat was dry. Ludwig's broad chest was sculpted with muscle, his golden skin still wet from the rain and glistening in the light of the fire. Without thinking, Feliciano reached out and ran his fingertips down Ludwig's firm, warm, muscular chest. It rose and fell rapidly beneath his hand, then Ludwig's breath caught as he unexpectedly took Feliciano by the waist and brought their bare chests together. Feliciano gasped then moaned, placed his hands on Ludwig's huge upper arms, then bit his lip to control another broken sound rising in his throat. He suddenly felt almost shy and looked down, surprised by the unfamiliar feeling. Ludwig placed a kiss gently against his cheek.
"How... how do you say 'kiss me' in Italian?" Feliciano turned his head to find Ludwig staring intently, his blue eyes sparkling in the firelight, and Feliciano's pounding heart fluttered to his throat. Their lips were so close... He swallowed a few times before he could answer.
"Baciami," he whispered.
"Baciami," Ludwig repeated dutifully. Feliciano laughed softly. His pronunciation was still terrible.
"Küss mich," he whispered back against Ludwig's cheek. Their lips met at first hesitantly, gently, then the kiss quickly grew stronger and deeper. Feliciano's hands grew bolder as well, roaming over Ludwig's large arms and chest, then he breathed in sharply when Ludwig lay him back and settled over him, firm and reassuringly heavy. When their skin met again Feliciano felt it like an electrical charge, his chest full to overflowing. Their earlier kisses had been brief, stolen. But now there was nothing but a warming fire and the rain on the roof and Ludwig and the entire night before them. Everything was too perfect, too incredible. Ludwig's skin was so warm, the smell of him so vivid and intoxicating, the sound of his heavy breathing making Feliciano's heart soar. Feliciano slowly realised Ludwig was shaking slightly. "Are you still cold?" he asked, concerned.
"No."
"Are you scared of the thunder? It's all right, Ludwig, I'll protect you." Ludwig laughed quietly against his ear and kissed him again. Feliciano did not know what to do with this happiness. It was almost too much to bear. He pressed closer, leant into Ludwig's touch, ran his hands down Ludwig's back, and realised... "You need to take your trousers off as well."
Ludwig immediately froze, his expression torn between apprehension and surprise, his eyes bright with desire. "I don't know if that is a very good idea."
Feliciano looked up very slowly, imploringly, his lip between his teeth. He twisted against Ludwig and whispered breathily. "I think it's a very good idea."
Once again, Ludwig looked at a complete and utter loss for words. "I... oh. I... you mean..."
Feliciano nodded, for once not sure how to put into words what he wanted. He didn't know much about it, but he knew what lovers did together, and he knew he wanted to feel Ludwig everywhere. Beautiful Ludwig who was so strong, so enticing, so handsome and bright and wonderful that Feliciano just wanted to be closer, wanted to be as close as possible. Feliciano tried to find the words. "You and me, together..." He thrust up his hips and Ludwig stifled a groan. "Like this."
Feliciano did not give Ludwig time to comprehend before he fumbled at Ludwig's cold, heavy belt buckle. It took only seconds for Ludwig to reach down and help, until they both managed to peel off their still slightly damp trousers, then gasped and clutched each other when their bare hips met. The feeling shot through Feliciano like a lightning strike. It was a few moments before he could speak. "Have you... done it before?" Feliciano suddenly found himself completely, irrationally angry at the idea of Ludwig being with anyone else like this.
It took Ludwig longer to respond. Sweat was beading on his brow. "No," he said shakily. "But I've..." He trailed into a mumble. "Read about it…"
"Oh!" said Feliciano in understanding. "Lovino and I found some books like that under Grandpa's bed once. Lovino couldn't look Grandpa in the eye for a month. Did your books have pictures of naked ladies as well?"
Ludwig's face turned red, his eyes wide and panicked. "No! Gott, no, nothing like that, that's not what I mean, I'm talking about something else entirely…"
Feliciano giggled. "It's okay, Ludwig." He kissed Ludwig steadily, pushed his hips against Ludwig's, tried to convince him without words.
Ludwig broke the kiss, gasping, then swallowed heavily, almost a gulp. "Do you know what this means..." He looked like he didn't quite know the way to frame the question. "I'm sorry, I mean, do you understand how..."
Feliciano let his thighs part, and brought one leg up over Ludwig's side. He stared into Ludwig's wide eyes and whispered, "This means you'll be inside me, right?" Ludwig did not move. Feliciano wondered briefly if he should remind him to breathe. "Um... Ludwig?"
"JA… um, I mean, yes, I…" Ludwig coughed nervously. Feliciano bit back another giggle. "We'll need something," said Ludwig quickly.
Feliciano tilted his head. "Something?"
"To make it… easier… um.." Ludwig looked down. Feliciano had never heard him so uncertain. It was rather adorable. "Some sort of cream, or oil, or…"
"Oh, I know!" Feliciano rolled over from under Ludwig and reached up into the rows of storage. He took down a bottle of olive oil then sat back onto the bunk and handed it to Ludwig. "Here."
Ludwig raised an eyebrow. "Olive oil. There is olive oil stored right next to a bed of hay, by a fireplace, in a barn. Mad Italians." Feliciano could not respond before Ludwig pulled him into a kiss and pressed him back into the hay. And then Ludwig took over, his hands and lips and breath, and Feliciano just leant into it, fell into it. This was closer than he had ever dreamt of, and more than he had ever imagined. Ludwig grew more certain with every second, and Feliciano moaned as he thrust up against him, a craving building uncontrollably in his chest and spreading everywhere, everywhere Ludwig touched with those warm, strong, still slightly shaking hands.
The pain was nothing, not after the unbearable agony he had already been through. Because this was Ludwig, and this was everything, and it just melted into the perfect and indescribable feeling of Ludwig's large, warm body against his, Ludwig pressing against him, into him, and it was all so incredible and stunning that Feliciano could not stop the tears which rose to his eyes.
"Are you all right?" asked Ludwig, his face suddenly concerned even as he struggled to keep his breathing even.
"Yes," whispered Feliciano, clutching Ludwig's arms to try and make him move. "Oh, yes…"
"Am I hurting you?" Ludwig's arms shook as he held himself still.
"No, no it's fine..." Ludwig moved, Feliciano gasped, and Ludwig froze completely.
"Sorry, I'm sorry! Are you..."
"Ludwig, shush." Feliciano reached up and kissed him, wrapped his legs around his waist, pulled him in. Ludwig gasped, shuddering, against his lips.
"Ah, Gott, Feliciano..."
Feliciano had never imagined such feelings, such sensations. Like he was being surrounded by Ludwig, lost in him, like the world had shrunk until it contained nothing but this small corner of it, this single moment. And it felt so good inside him, and all through him, and Ludwig's face was so beautiful in the light of the fire that Feliciano had to reach up and touch it.
Feliciano ran his hands over Ludwig's chest and shoulders, thrilling in the feel of the hard muscle working under soft golden skin. Sweat rose to Ludwig's brow and his eyes remained fixed on Feliciano's, as though he could not look away. Feliciano's skin burned where Ludwig trailed a hand down his side and over his hip, and he gasped when Ludwig slid it between them, then shuddered and cried out as it closed around him. A sharp pulsing pleasure throbbed between his legs, in his hips, his thighs, his spine, greater than anything he'd ever felt by his own hand in dark early hours under the blanket, alone. "Ludwig," he panted breathlessly. "Feels so good..."
Feliciano never wanted it to end, but it couldn't last… nothing this perfect could last. He spiralled closer as Ludwig moved faster, whispering his name, and this tightening pulse grew uncontrollably, inevitably… "Oh... Ludwig, I... oh..." Then it all sharpened, fell, climaxed; in his stomach, his head, everywhere, and he cried out from the intense bright bliss of it.
Ludwig gasped against his ear, hot and damp, then he shuddered and groaned. "Feliciano... Ich liebe dich." The words were so soft Feliciano was not sure if he was meant to hear them.
Feliciano panted for breath as he blinked away his tears, put his arms around Ludwig's neck and reached for his lips. They kissed slowly, chests rising and falling rapidly against each other. Then Ludwig rolled to his side and brought Feliciano into his arms, kissing his hair. "I love you too," said Feliciano, throwing his arm over Ludwig, nuzzling into him. He felt Ludwig smile against his forehead.
Their hands met between their chests, fingers twisting together. Feliciano knew then that this was what mattered, that this was what life was lived for, and that if only everyone could feel like this there would be no such things as war and hatred and killing. There was no need to speak, no need to do anything but lie in each others arms and feel each other breathe. And Feliciano was not sure if he dozed off, but it didn't matter, because when he opened his eyes again Ludwig was still here, still here with him. The fire still blazed and it was so warm now, even though he could hear the howling wind and thunder and rain outside. But none of that could touch him when he was lying like this in Ludwig's arms, safe from everything. But there were still some things no one was strong enough to control...
"What will happen tomorrow?" Feliciano spoke finally, not wanting to break this golden moment, but unable to stop himself asking. Ludwig took a deep breath before answering.
"The Americans will attack. But we will be ready for them. And it will be a fair fight... not an ambush in the dark."
"Are their pilots... very good? Better than you?"
"They are good." Ludwig gave a tiny smirk. "But not better than me. A Mustang is no match for a Messerschmitt." Feliciano nodded, satisfied Ludwig was telling the truth. Because no one could be better than Ludwig, at anything. No American could beat Ludwig. Feliciano smiled against Ludwig's chest, then laughed softly. Ludwig raised his head slightly, curiously.
"Did you ever think, on the first day we met, on the road, that we would end up like this?"
"The first day we met." Ludwig smiled thoughtfully, and his face brightened. His normally neat, slicked back hair fell messy in his bright eyes, and Feliciano stared, heart skipping, trying to imprint the image on his memory. "That was the first day I had walked this far out into the countryside. I remember it clearly... I was so tired, and drained, and sick of everything. Every day, the same hell. It was as though I was seeing everything in black and white. But then you arrived from no where, and you looked up, and you spoke, and you smiled, and everything burst into colour again." For a moment Ludwig's eyes were as blue as they had been on that sunny day they had first met. Feliciano wondered if he had fallen in love the moment he saw them. "You make the world beautiful again." Ludwig looked away shyly and Feliciano almost had to suppress a joyful laugh as the happiness inside him threatened to overflow. "The next day I wandered out here again, just hoping to see you. I think I loved you already. And the whole time we met I never dreamt... never dared to hope you would feel the same. Never imagined I could deserve that."
Feliciano's chest felt tight, his heart so full. Ludwig had never spoken so openly, and Feliciano felt so amazed that he could make someone like Ludwig open his soul for him. He kissed his shoulder. "Ludwig." He wished there was something he could do, something he could say to respond. But how could he ever put his overwhelming feelings into words like that? If only there was something he could give Ludwig... then he remembered with a jolt. "Oh, I forgot!" Feliciano pushed himself up and took the two photographs down from the bench above them. "Here," he said, settling on his stomach beside Ludwig and placing the photographs before them. They had dried completely. "Do you remember the photographs we took? Up on the hill?"
"Of course." Ludwig ran his fingers carefully over the photograph of Feliciano smiling cheerfully at the camera, Ludwig's grey jacket over his shoulders.
"Now you can have one of me, and I can have one of you! You're supposed to smile in photographs, but that's all right, you look very handsome, anyway. Oh, you should write something on the back of it, my name or something, you're supposed to do that with photographs, and the place, and the date too, I think it was the twenty… where did you get a pen?"
"My shirt pocket."
Feliciano raised his eyebrows. "You have a pen in your pocket?"
"Of course. You never know when you might need one."
"Gosh, you carry the strangest things in your pockets, Ludwig. You don't have any more chocolate in there, do you?"
Ludwig's lips curled slightly. "No, sorry." He turned the photograph over and poised his pen over it. Then he paused.
Feliciano threw his arm around Ludwig's and leant against his shoulder. "What are you going to write?"
Ludwig's hand shook slightly, then he wrote slowly, carefully, in neat, angular script: two simple words. 'bella ciao.' Feliciano couldn't help but laugh at that, even as the words pulled painfully at his chest. "You wrote it wrong, silly German."
Ludwig glanced at him sideways, a tiny smile on his lips. "No, I wrote it like the song. Bella ciao."
Feliciano smiled back then turned over the photograph of Ludwig. He took the pen from Ludwig and scrawled 'auf wiedersehen, sweetheart' on the back. Then he looked down at the two photographs, side by side. Two goodbyes. Feliciano was so sick of saying goodbye. He closed his eyes and rolled over, again trying to hide himself in Ludwig's arms. The sound of the rain on the roof grew gradually softer, and the rumbling thunder came from far away. The only light now came from the dwindling fire, the night long since fallen. "Switzerland, Ludwig. I'd leave right now if you asked me. This second."
Ludwig's heartbeat sped up against Feliciano's ear, his breathing slightly uneven. When his voice came it was tinged with regret. "I have my duty. And what would your brother and grandfather say if you never came home?"
Feliciano squeezed his eyes shut painfully. He had expected the answer. But it still hurt. "They wouldn't care. They know I told you about the landings. They hate me now."
Ludwig ran a hand gently over Feliciano's back. "No. I am quite sure they don't."
"Things are going to change now, aren't they."
"Yes." Neither mentioned it, but Feliciano knew that Ludwig understood as well as he did. With the Americans landing, there was no way Ludwig could just walk out to the oak tree and meet him every day. They would be lucky enough to hold onto their base. "But this war will be over one day. And then, I'll come back for you."
"Yes, you will, or else I will come for you. I will, Ludwig, no matter how far I have to go, no matter how long it takes. I'll wait for you forever, remember? I'll see you again, Ludwig. I will. I'll see you again." Feliciano spoke firmly, determinedly, but with an edge of rising desperation. Ludwig touched his cheek and kissed him firmly.
"Yes. You'll see me again. Now don't think about that, Feliciano. Right now, I'm here with you." Feliciano nodded, tried to focus only on Ludwig here with him now, and not the uncertainty that was to come. Because right now, Ludwig was here with him, and there was no one else, and this was one of their places where they were somewhere else. Feliciano pressed as close to Ludwig as he could, felt him and breathed him, tangled their legs together, ran his fingertips over his chest, his back, his shoulders, curled them in his golden hair. Feliciano sighed contentedly at the feel of Ludwig's fingers twisting in his own hair. "This one curl of yours." Ludwig's voice rumbled through his chest and against Feliciano's ear. "So strange. It never lies flat."
Feliciano smiled and tried to fight the inescapable drowsiness that washed over him. He wanted to stay awake with Ludwig for as long as he could, for as long as they had. But he also knew he did not want to watch Ludwig leave. He knew that it would break him, and he would never be able to breath again. "Will you do something for me?" asked Feliciano quietly, so quietly he was not sure Ludwig had heard. But then Ludwig squeezed his hand and whispered back.
"What would you like me to do?"
"Stay until I fall asleep. And don't say goodbye."
Ludwig's arms tightened around him in response. Feliciano clung to Ludwig, and to consciousness, but eventually, exhausted, he could not fight it any longer. He fell asleep, the gentle, tingling touch of Ludwig's fingers running through his hair, wondering how it was possible that this was the best, worst, happiest, saddest moment of his life.
.
Next Chapter
Disclaimer: This story belongs to George deValier. Hetalia belongs to Hidekaz Himaruya. I own nothing.
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The next stop of our road trip through British Columbia was up into the mountains: Whistler.
The drive from and to Vancouver is absolutely stunning. The Sea to Sky Highway is aptly named as the first part to Squamish is right along the coast of the Howe Sound with panoramic views of the various islands with rugged mountain ranges as a backdrop and then steadily climbing through the mountains, provincial parks, along meandering rivers and vast lakes. There are not too many viewpoints on the northbound part, so I also included some pictures of stops near Cheakamus and Lions Bay that we took when heading back.
With the car full of all of our luggage, we didn’t feel all that comfortable to go hiking near Shannon Falls or to take the Sea to Sky Gondola and taking in the 360-degree vistas at 885m / 2900ft over the Stawamus Chief Provincial Park. The Sea To Sky Gondola was sabotaged just a couple of weeks later as its cables were cut in the middle of the night, causing the gondolas to crash to the ground. It is expected to reopen in Spring 2020.
Therefore, we initially decided to a quick stop in Squamish and have a stroll over the Farmers Market. As the market was super crowded that day, it almost was impossible to get a nearby parking spot. Therefore we opted to have a late lunch at Howe Sound Brewing (37801 Cleveland Ave).
I had the Brewpub burger which besides the regular toppings had caramelized onions and smoked cheddar on it, and the kids had the Garibaldi Burger with bacon and Swiss cheese. Chantal had the massive tuna poke bowl filled with quinoa, greens, carrots, cucumber, macadamia nuts & chips. Of course, we also took some samples of their beers. The Sky Pilot Northwest Pale Ale and the Hazy Daze Northeast IPA were our favorites but were also blown away by the intense flavors of their fruit-infused beers, like their You’re My Boy Blue Blueberry Wheat Ale and Super Jupiter Mango ISA. A characteristic we found out that many BC brewers have mastered.
To us, Whistler and neighboring Blackcomb are renowned ski resorts, but we were not entirely sure what to expect during summer. It proved to be as vibrant as it must be in winter, but skiers and snowboarders in the gondolas having been replaced by mountain bikers and hikers.
That evening, after walking through the village center, we had dinner at Il Caminetto (4242 Village Stroll). It is an upscale Italian restaurant headed by James Walt, one of Canada’s leading chefs and a “farm-to-table” pioneer who was inducted into the British Columbia Restaurant Hall of Fame in 2011. The Toptable group, of which Il Caminetto is part, has 5 restaurants and patisseries in Vancouver and is well represented in Whistler as well, with Walt also overseeing the kitchens of Araxi, The Cellar by Araxi, and Bar Oso.
Having been the Executive Chef to the Canadian Embassy in Rome, it should not come as a surprise that the pasta and the risotto we had were absolutely stellar, as were their signature cocktails. Clockwise:
Barrel-aged Red Hook (Rittenhouse straight Rye, Punt e Mes, Maraschino liqueur, aged for 1 month in oak)
Il Caminetto G&T (their house-produced gin with Fevertree Tonic, seasonal botanicals, and garnishes)
Local beet Tortolloni, Taleggio & Goat Cheese filled roasted beets and toasted walnuts
Wild mushroom Risotto, Acquerello rice with white wine, Parmigiano Reggiano and truffle essence
Fusili al Pomodoro, fresh Tomatoes, olive oil, and basil
Some sweet nibbles that came with the bill.
The next day we did some more exploring of the village after having brunch at Crêpe Montagne (4368 Main St #116). This is an ideal breakfast and brunch place (although open through dinner) with proper savory and sweet French buckwheat style crêpes. Salads and more standard breakfast options like bennies, omelets, french toast, and American pancakes are available. We had the Montagne (2 eggs, Canadian Bacon, Cheese) and the Nordique (1 egg, cheese, tomatoes and a side of spinach) and kids went for the sweet Strawberry and Nutella crêpes. Freshly pressed apple juice with ginger: the best way to kickstart your day.
Late afternoon workout at Forged Axe Throwing (1208 Alpha Lake Rd Unit 1). After receiving our instructions, we started throwing ourselves. First with both hands, then with one hand, some competitions (the kids beat ��Team Old” big time…), finishing with trick shots with the hand axe and having a final go with a much larger lumber axe. It took some time to get the hang of it, but it was an entertaining 1-hour family event. You will remember it for the next couple of days as you are using some different muscles than you usually do. Afterward, we had some Mexican-style snacks and refreshing beers at Whistler Brewing Company (1045 Millar Creek Rd) pretty much across the road from Forged.
The reason for the late afternoon snacking was that we had booked a 2½ hour bear tour with Whistler Photo Safari and would be picked up from our hotel at 5.30pm. In the winter the Whistler Olympic Park offers over 180km of cross country skiing tracks, but in the summer about 80 black bears count the park as part of their territory. We had booked the evening session (sunrise and 2 daytime tours are also available) as a private tour in a Jeep 4×4. With regular price CAD 149 per person (CAD 99 for 12 and under), the CAD 596 for the private tour was only slightly more expensive for us. However, as they are the only company that has Whistler Olympic park after hours and off-season access, it was well worth it as we had the Jeep to ourselves and 2 other WPS vehicles in the Park.
After the first stop at nearby Alexander Falls, we entered the park and started to search for bears but first spotted a deer. Kyle Smith proved to be an excellent guide that evening. As a lead guide with the Commercial Bear Viewing Association, he is basically following the bears throughout British Columbia, Yukon, and Alaska with the seasons. Kyle is also a professional photographer specializing in wildlife photography and action sports (check his site and Instagram here). We apologized for that fact that we only had our iPhones with us as camera 😉
In his bio on the WPS site, it is mentioned that Kyle is a very passionate naturalist and forager who loves to share his knowledge on wild edibles. This proved to be spot on as we got amazing insights regarding bears as well as the (alarming) impact of climate change on the whole ecosystem in this area and besides the bears, we also did some wild mushroom spotting.
In recent years, salmons have not been coming so far upstream to spawn (smaller population, drought) so these “Olympic” black bears have turned about 95% vegetarian, which also shows that they are relatively small. In the evenings, the bears start foraging for their meals and we mainly found them grazing clover fields around the Olympic venues, like the biathlon shooting range and at the landing area of the ski jump. Pretty surreal.
We also spotted a mother bear and her cub scurrying over a pile of mulch, descending from the tree line and then crossing the road just in front of us. I would never have thought to be able to observe 6 different bears in the wild from such a short distance. The “Nice!” comment at the end of the clip was therefore rather understated!
Our last full day in Whistler was spent outdoors with the Peak 2 Peak 360 degree Experience.
First up we took the Whistler Village Gondola up to the Roundhouse Lodge followed by a 10-minute walk down the mountain (in the winter likely less than a minute on skis). There the Peak Express Chairlift brought us to the Top of the World, being the Whistler Mountain Peak at 2182m / 7160ft. After crossing the exhilarating Cloudraker Skybridge, a 130-meter suspension bridge that spans from Whistler Peak to the West Ridge over Whistler Bowl where you will find the Raven’s Eye Cliff Walk, a cantilever platform with 360-degree views from Whistler Peak.
After taking in the amazing views, you can take the chair lift back down after which you will inevitably have to walk back up to the Roundhouse Lodge. Doable, but with the thin air a bit more strenuous than we expected.
Therefore, we took the time to catch our breath on the Peak 2 Peak gondola that connects with Blackcomb Mountain’s Rendezvous Lodge. It was the first lift to join the two side-by-side mountains and held the world record for the longest free span between ropeway towers with a whopping 3 kilometers / 1.9 miles. A glass-bottomed gondola to experience on the fact that you are dangling up to 436m / 1430ft above the valley for 11 minutes? No thanks, that’s not for us!
After going back down to Upper Village, we had lunch and some beers at Merlins Bar & Grill, which is located at the gondola (4553 Blackcomb Way). As we missed out on them when we were in Vancouver, we chose the Stanley Park Brewing‘s Daytrip West Coast Lager and Windstorm Pale Ale and they did not disappoint.
Besides Caesar’s salad, we ordered Merlin’s Burgers (Aged white cheddar, crispy cured bacon & jalapeño aioli sauce) and the Vladimir Poutine with a pork barbacoa topping couldn’t even be finished despite joint efforts.
We walked off the late lunch with a visit to the very impressive Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre (4584 Blackcomb Way) that was built in Whistler as it historically was considered a joint city of the Squamish (Sk̲wx̲wú7mesh Úxumixw) and Lil’wat (L̓il̓wat7úl) First Nations. The center gives tremendous insights into their respective art, history, and culture. The building has great acoustics too as you will experience during the traditional welcoming song that comes with the guided tours.
Both nations have separate languages, but they share many common words as a result of the extensive trading between the Nations throughout the centuries. Both cultures were grounded in an oral tradition and the Squamish and Lil’wat created written languages in the 1970s to help prevent their languages from becoming extinct. As you may have seen, both languages share a “7” in their language. It acts as a glottal stop and therefore are indicators to pause in pronouncing the word.
We concluded our stay in Whistler with Vallea Lumina, an immersive multimedia night forest walk, a 10-minute drive from Whistler with the complementary (and mandatory) shuttle busses.
The Lumina concept is a showcase creation of Moment Factory, an award-winning Canadian multimedia studio that does public space multimedia installations and light shows, marketing events and content, but also live stage design for artists such as Ed Sheeran, Red Hot Chilli Peppers, Arcade Fire, Nine Inch Nails, and Madonna. I have seen a couple of their creations at different Muse concerts, so I know this would be pretty awesome. Here is a link to their demo reel, to get a sense of what they are capable of (that light show in the Cathedral is jawdropping!)
There are now 10 different themes Lumina Sites in the world, of which 6 in Canada, 3 in Japan and 1 in Singapore. The Vallea Lumina storyline is that in the shadow of Whistler mountains, legends say there’s a hidden valley where stardust falls from the sky, filling all living things with its pure light. You, as a deputy ranger, are tasked to search 2 missing hikers and get sucked into the wondrous adventure through the enchanted forest which takes you over 1.5 km / 1 mile of well-kept trails and stairs.
There are 15-minute time-slots when booking, but that is mainly meant to space out the different groups. As the various segments are on a loop, you can just take your time and fully immerse yourself in the experience. It took us just over an hour to finish and it is truly unforgettable, for kids and adults alike!
Around the World – British Columbia road trip (2019) – Whistler The next stop of our road trip through British Columbia was up into the mountains: Whistler.
#Axe Throwing#Bear Safari#Beer#Blackcomb#Brewery#Brewpub#British Columbia#Canada#Crèpe Montagne#Fine Dining#First Nations#Forest Walk#Forged Axe Throwing#Hiking#Howe Sound Brewing#Il Caminetto#James Walt#Kyle Smith Foto#Local Food#Merlins Bar & Grill#Moment Factory#Nature#Peak 2 Peak Gondola#Restaurants#Roadtrip#Squamish#Squamish Lil&039;wat Cultural Centre#Stanley Park Brewing#Things to Do#Travel
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JCR Monthly: Fall Getaways
Autumn — that glorious time of year when the air turns crisp; the leaves crayola hued; and orchards show off their apples, pears, and pumpkins — is fast approaching. Fall is considered prime time within our JCR collection — a perfect time to travel, as it’s not too hot, not too cold, but just right. Take Sheen Falls, Ireland, when the country’s dazzling greenery is laced with color; and The Greenwich Hotel, New York City, where celebs hide out for Fashion Week. Following, a few of our favorite travel locales for fall. Enjoy.
The Emerald Isle is stunning year-round, but autumn is when the glorious green (landscape) and blue (sea) intertwine with red, orange, yellow, hues. Shoulder season starts September; low-season, mid-October. Among our favorite autumn Ireland stays:
Sheen Falls Lodge: (in scenic Kenmare) Forest bathe along lush wilderness paths, ride horseback on white (and multi-colored) horses past the changing leaves, fly falcons, and fish in the lodge’s famed Sheen River. Warm up later, by the wood-burning fireplace, over a cup of hot Irish tea or for an even more stylish affair, book afternoon tea in the Sheen Falls Lounge — a feast of finger sandwiches, delicate pastries, scones, and exquisite cakes created daily by the hotel’s pastry team. For the ultimate fall immersion, book into one of the storybook thatched-roof cottages. So divine.
Foodies will also love Sheen Falls Lodge in autumn. The aptly named (two AA rosettes) Falls Restaurant offers an elegant dining room, tantalizing seasonal menu, and Irish chef who fuses local ingredients with French know how. The seasonal menu offers up favorites like estate-smoked salmon, mountain lamb, organic veggies and micro herbs grown just up the road — perfectly paired with wine from one of Ireland’s finest cellars. More casual dining options include The Stables Brasserie & Bar, housed in the beautifully reimagined stables, offering a contemporary restaurant, terrace, and bar with a big screen; and the old-school Sheen Bar, featuring 90 whiskeys (including 60 Irish single malts and blends), an eclectic collection of Scotch, leather chairs and a piano player.
Ballyfin: Explore the Demesne (just a short distance from the house) and ‘feel lost in nature.’ Paved and grass paths wind through the property. Follow on foot, bike, horse, or even golf cart.
Castlemartyr: Grab a vintage bike and explore the castle grounds, dip into the spa for a warm body wrap, followed by massage, and during your stay sample Irish whiskey at the nearby Jameson distillery.
Autumn in New York means Fashion Week and spectacular weather, with the place to stay — Tribeca’s chic Greenwich Hotel, co-owned by Robert De Niro, and a favorite celebrity hideaway. Swim in the lantern-lit swimming pool before a cocooning spa treatment (the menu alters with the season), then head to Locanda Verde for Italian, before retiring to the guests-only drawing room, complete with a fireplace.
Other notable autumn escapes:
Chan Chich Lodge, Belize: Travel to Belize tends to slow a bit in the fall which means fewer tourists and a more authentic Belize experience. Bird watching is also spectacular, look for toucans, red-lored parrots, crested guan.
Hacienda AltaGracia, Costa Rica: During a stay at this world-renowned wellness resort, visit Trapiche Nery, a local Costa Rican family farm. Don Nery and his wife Doña Yamileth welcome Hacienda guests into their home and farm, where they share the local way of life — from extracting sugarcane from their own trapiche to mastering the technique of homemade tortillas.
Glenapp Castle, Scotland: Photograph the forest’s most stunning creatures. With a professional tracker, follow the trail of stags and deer through the forest and glens, capturing on film the beauty of these silent forest dwellers. Note: visit September and October, the hotel closes November to April.
Grantley Hall, England: What better season to ‘spa’ than autumn. Especially when the offering here includes a rhassoul chamber, steam, sauna, snow room, and cryotherapy tank. Added perk: low-season starts mid-October, perfect for spatime.
Hotel Esprit Saint Germain, Paris: Springtime in Paris gets all of the glory, but autumn is pretty spectacular too. The city is vibrant after a slower summer pace, but not overly crowded with holiday merrymakers. Stroll the Seine, take in the museums, and return to this private apartment-esque hotel.
Family Twist: Family Twist creates the ultimate travel-education program outside the classroom, from creating perfume in Paris to engaging to making cheese in Amsterdam.
HL Adventure, Iceland: The weather is milder (but not cold), the crowd is thinner and the colors are spectacular — even the soft green moss turns to warm shades of red, yellow, gold. HL Adventures guides autumn visitors to the most authentic Iceland experiences (festivals and cultural events), with a luxury twist, of course.
Katikies Santorini, Greece:Fall is still high season in Greece, so September and October are a lovely time to visit the ‘original’ Katikies flagship. A legendary Oia landmark, Katikies is most known for its stunning sea views, filmy white rooms, and signature pink bougainvillea. Yes, even in autumn.
Tierra Chiloé, Chile: This enchanting 24-room hotel, featuring water views, reopens for the season in October (Chile’s spring). Explore (on foot, boat or horseback) the rugged beauty of this northern Patagonian archipelago and be sure to sample the traditional cuisine —steamy fish stews cooked underground.
Solio Lodge, Kenya: Beat the holiday safari rush with a November through mid-December trek to Solio Lodge. View, up close, the extremely rare white and black rhinos; then relax afterward in one of the lodge’s five beautifully appointed cottages, complete with a fireplace.
Soneva Fushi, The Maldives: It’s always summer in The Maldives, even in autumn. For a fascinating adventure, join Soneva Fushi’s sunset dolphin cruise. While sipping champagne and munching on canapes, watch dozens of dolphins play in the light of the setting sun.
(Low-season, mid-October to mid-November)
Aerial BVI, British Virgin Islands: Season changes are an ideal time to start a cleanse or new health regimen so autumn is a great time to visit JCR’s newest client, Aerial BVI, a private island completely focused on health and wellbeing.
Eustatia Island, British Virgin Islands: Hang on to summer at this stunning, private island, known for its impeccable service and water sports —did someone say kite surfing.
Hotel Le Toiny, St. Barth: The ‘see-and-be-seen’ crowd arrives (by mega-yacht and plane) in December, making autumn (starting mid-October, when the hotel reopens for the season) an amazing time to visit. Have the beaches to yourself, dip into your private infinity pool, and hang at the hotel’s tony beach club.
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Dear New York City,
You are incredible! I love your busy streets and young energetic crowd. You are simply vibrant of life just how I had imagined you (from the movies, Sex & the City shows, and the songs about you)! So many reasons to have a crush on you so where shall I start?
Butcher’s Daughter
Driving through Chinatown
Ok, here are some of my first impressions of you, NYC:
It is said of you that you are the entire world into one city. Could it be real? You have a platter full of food options! As you are being the hub of internationals and a known place for storied history, you satisfy anyone’s taste bud, I can’t make up my mind. How can I decide between a casual French bistro (Bagatelle, 1 Little West 12th St.), delicious house-made Italian pasta (La Sirena, 88 9th Ave.), Exotic Moroccan (Cafe Mogador, 101 Saint Marks Pl #1), spicy Korean (Kori Tribeca, 253 Church St.), fun cocktails and Mexican food (La Palapa, 77 St Marks Pl.), Barcelona-style tapas (Toro, 85 10th Ave.), German’s pretzels and beer (The Standard Biergarten, 848 Washington St. just outside of the Standard High Line Hotel and I’ll tell more later), Green Juice (Yep that’s also food trust me!) and far more as if I was in the mood for a health conscious Californian style (not just green juice) there is Dime (49 Canal St.). And let’s not omit American sandwiches (Tiny’s & the Bar Upstairs, 135 W Broadway), and comfort food made of shakes, fries and burgers (Bill’s Bar & Burgers, 16 W 51st St.). There is also the Michelin starred Chef Gunter Seeger at Gunter Seerger NY (641 Hudson St.) and for the gluten free folks there is Friedman’s Lunch (75 9th Ave. at the Chelsea Market which I’ll speak more about in this post). Alas, due to my devoted ramen international tour mission, my friend and I set our minds towards Ippudo Ramen (65 Fourth Ave.) as soon as we set our feet on you.
Ippudo NYC
Ippudo Tonkotsu Ramen
Shook off the night away at Le Bain (848 Washington St.), the penthouse club and roof top bar with an outstanding sweeping city and river view located at the Standard High Line hotel. You blew us away! The vibe was electric between the sparkly giant disco ball, the Afro kinetics music, the sweaty dance moves, with the sticky cranberry vodka on my hand. I’ll remember this moment for a while 🙂 Not to mention our pre-game with gin-based drinks at this speakeasy bar Bathtub Gin that is disguised with a front panel as a regular coffee shop. How dare you tricked us!! Fortunately a friendly local had mercy and pointed the place out to us. Piouf don’t you know I have the fear of missing out syndromes!!
Le Bain with a sweeping view of the river and the city
Some cool walls at the Standard High Line
Bathtub Gin is behind the facade of this coffee shop
The Maritime Hotel (363 W 16th St.) is one of your best places to spend the night in my opinion; friendly, quirky (how I personally like it) and cozy. Located right in the center of the Meatpacking District. This 24-hour neighborhood is found on the far west side of Manhattan and is bordered by Chelsea to the north and the West Village towards downtown. It’s a formidable plant for fashion and graphic designers, architects, artists, restaurateurs, stylists and even corporate headquarters. I enjoyed staying at this hotel in that unique style, it has a nautical-themed landmark with the signature view porthole windows and how I love the white and blue tiles at the restaurant bar and the outdoor terraces seemed just perfect for spring time. In the morning a modest continental breakfast was served at the hotel restaurant so I grabbed myself a quick bite of the bagel with some flavorful orange spread, a mini pain au chocolat, a hard boiled egg, a cup of black coffee and a fresh squeeze glass of OJ. I love the serene atmosphere there with plenty of sun rays through the large windows illuminating the brass surfaced pending lamps.
The Maritime Hotel Restaurant
Ice Wine from Montreal
My Instragram (non worthy) messy bed at the Maritime Hotel
The view port over Manhattan from the Maritime Hotel
Map printed furniture at the Maritime Hotel
Petit dej at the Maritime Hotel Restaurant
You are so walkable in lower Manhattan and it was a great way to see your beauty (your wall graffitis, your modern architectures, your red bricked walls, your apartment stair cases, your lively people, and your multi-culture). But if I didn’t care for strolling around in the cold, then there was the world known yellow cab which was very affordable too! Besides the hotel’s cool white-tiled exterior, I can find within a short walking distance anything ranging from roof top night clubs around the corner, espresso bars, bakeries, as well as street food stands (one in the front of the hotel), yummy late night pizzas (Brunetti Pizza, 626 Hudson St.) (especially required after too much drinks at 4 am), and have I already mentioned great restaurants and bars?!
Cool wall art
Greenwich Village street crossing
The signature NYC staircases
And more wall graffitis
Chelsea Market and the well known yellow cab
The Chelsea Market (75 9th Ave.) to me is where anything can happen and is only a block away from the hotel. You are spontaneous like that! If I ever get too lazy to walk out there into town and/or there is a snow storm alert coming, this covered venue is very special! One is expected to find anything ranging from espresso bar, pastries and freshly baked bread. A crave for fresh oysters there is The Lobster Place!! There, it’s a retail fish market with omakase sushi bar but also a raw bar where people can order and eat at the counter nearby the living seashells. There is even a German wurst place!! There are plenty of cool shops for gifts giving. I love this market!
Chelsea Market
Seafood Bar
Oyster Platter
The Lobster Place
Sight seeing to me is so boring but we strolled around town and set our sight towards The Flatiron Building then marched towards the Empire State Building. I got remotely distracted by the Museum of Sex and ought to call out Grant on this! Our last Vegas trip during thanksgiving holiday failed on us in finding adult shows for some sort of sex Ed haha I’ll skip the details there 😉 but anyone can read this post here! The Empire State Building was incredibly crowded (uncool!!) so we evidently ditched the queue and headed out towards the world known Times Square. Bright lights, giant billboards and honking everywhere! It was to say the least chaotic. Gotta get away now! Who really hangs out in Times Square aside from catching a Broadway show or… yeah tourists!!
The Flatiron Building
The Empire State Building
The chaotic Times Square
The Museum of Sex, was it really a distraction?! or an attraction? Can you tell me 😉
If anyone needed a breath of fresh air when the concrete walk way and the stinging sound of sirens and honking felt suffocating and exhausting, there is fun and relaxation in strolling in your parks. Aside from the obvious green area of Central Park, I loved the Brooklyn Bridge Park where my friend and I got to have a humble picnic; with the magical view over Manhattan in the dark contrast of what you do best which is to gleam lights and inspire us with your beauty. We hopped on a yellow cab and asked to go to Pier 11. I had the idea of getting on a ferry to have a good gaze at the scintillant Brooklyn Bridge by the night. My friend and I cheered with red wine in plastic cups (lack of sophistication here, not me!) set ourselves up on a butt- frozen stairwell of the Brooklyn Bridge Park. We had some crackers dipped in olive paste and some (unidentifiable) cheese. Despite the blazing cold where my fingers and toes stopped responding to my commands, I very much enjoyed taking you in for a brief and calm sudden moment.
View of the Brooklyn Bridge on the Jumbo Ferry
Sweeping view of lower Manhattan from the Brooklyn Bridge Park
A view of the Brooklyn Bridge from the Pier 11
After filling our stomach at Mr. Tuka Ramen (170 Allen St.), we needed to walk it off a bit right so we headed towards world renown Comedy Cellar to test your sense of humor. Are you that funny? Unfortunately you are ever so crowded so we again ditched the queue and got some late drinks at the hotel. I served my friend some of the ice wine I got from my trip to Montreal the weekend before. It was so sweet but so tasty.
Mr. Tuka Ramen
Tonkotsu Ramen
More sight seeing followed on our last day photographing the one World Trade Center and the memorial site, stopped by Wall Street to find the Charging Bull and the Fearless Girl. Finally walked towards the Battery Park to have a peak at the Statue of Liberty from a far distance. But on our way to Sunday Brunch, not Egg Shop,151 Elizabeth St.), not the Butcher’s Daughter (19 Kenmare St.) (the queue estimated to be 1 hour waiting time so no thanks!!) got a green juice (must have Matcha Fizz made of matcha, fresh lime, honey and rosemary ) at the Cafe Integral (149 Elizabeth St.) and amazing classic Persian food instead (Ravagh Persian Grill, 125 1st Ave.). On our way there, I got to see life through Greenwich village. Kids playing at the playground and youngsters shooting hoops. And other people brunching too. The Persian grill was phenomenal! I’d recommend to anyone! And finally time was up!
Greenwich Village strolling
Life in Greenwich Village
The Egg Shop for Brunch
Awkward me as a tourist
A ride towards the World Trade Center
Cafe Integral Matcha Fitz Juice
Classic Persian Food
Until next time darling, we’ll have another date! I promise 😉
New York City Dear New York City, You are incredible! I love your busy streets and young energetic crowd. You are simply vibrant of life just how I had imagined you (from the movies, Sex & the City shows, and the songs about you)!
#City Guide#Life#Lifestyle Blog#Lower Manhattan#Manhattan#New York#New York City#NYC#NYC City Guide#Travel
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#dick herman photographs#nyc#photographs#photography#usa#dick herman#signed prints#photoart#bedroom wall art decoration#wall art decoration#wall art#buy wall art#Italian wine cellar#Italian wine cellar photographs#decorations photographs
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Independent Minds: Marie & Annica Eklund, Villa La Madonna
Bringing the best of Scandinavian style to old-school Italian glamour, the concept of ‘slow living’ comes naturally to these impossibly chic Swedish sisters, Marie & Annica Eklund, along with trendy Stockholm-based daughter Linn, a flourishing fashion content creator. A passion for design and an impeccable eye for detail clearly runs in the family, whose combined creative efforts have made Villa La Madonna a true labour of love.
Image credit (right): @linneklund
Originally from Sweden, Marie’s story begins in South Africa where she met her late husband, Björn, whose family estate would later become their wedding venue and eventually her Italian home. Villa La Madonna, a timeless country house overlooking the Bormida Valley, is a place of great personal importance to its owners, where many memories have been made over the years. After establishing a successful textiles and flooring company, the call of the Piedmont countryside was too strong for Marie to resist, who returned with photographer and Creative Director Annica to restore the villa to its former glory, and look after the family legacy.
Cultivating the 16th-century vineyards has brought a sense of peace to Marie following her loss, while allowing both sisters to instil their own personalites, creativity, and what they like to call “casual luxury” within the already storied property. By projecting their sisterly serenity, time stands still at Villa La Madonna, where guests can experience the simple life of rural north-western Italy.
What was the inspiration behind the hotel, and where do you continue to find sources of inspiration?
The story began on a South African train in 1995. I was sat in one of the cabins. In another, sat a man who would, four years later, become my husband. We were married at Björn’s estate – Villa La Madonna – with the Bormida Valley as the breath-taking backdrop. Over the next ten years, the vineyard flourished, and Villa La Madonna in its guise as a simple, basic hotel was always full of enthusiastic guests.
In 2008 we decided to separate, the property was sold, and I moved back to Sweden to focus my love and energy on our family company BOLON. Tough economic times followed in Italy, visitors to Villa La Madonna became ever fewer, and the former glory days seemed to be extending further away as the new owners failed to keep up with the necessary renovations. When Björn passed away in 2014, I found out that Villa La Madonna was once again searching for new ownership.
I then felt a yearning to go back there. If for nothing else, for the sake of my children and to safeguard what their father had created in his 25 years at the vineyard. I booked the tickets and I was soon breezing along the gravel roads that wind through the many small local villages, this time with my sister Annica by my side. Returning to Piedmont was, in many ways, a return home. The people who had been in my life back in that other time were still there, as were the winding grapevines, the wonderful Piedmontese food and the gentle peaks on the horizon. The comfort and peace sowed a seed of an idea in us. To restore and refine the vineyard and help it find its way back to what it once was, fulfilling the potential of what it could become.
So Villa La Madonna for us is something special and close to our hearts, and we want our Italian home to be the home to all our guests and visitors.
What does being ‘Independently Minded’ as an hotel owner mean to you?
For us, as creative minds we believe it’s important with the freedom to be able to create the best possible hotel experience. We have the possibility to make changes quickly, we do not have to adapt to certain concepts and regalements. For a customer that is looking for a personal experience, a hotel with a story to tell, then Villa La Madonna is the right choice. We have put our heart and soul into our family run hotel, and our passion for design and details reflects the whole feeling of our hotel.
How would you describe your own perfect luxury experience?
When we arrive at a place that is genuine, we feel at ease and get inspired. What creates a real experience is the small details that are unexpected or just on a level that makes us say “wow”. Luxury is not about having the most expensive interior and details, it’s all about giving the guest an experience by making them feel something. It’s often the ones with real passion and love for what they do.
If you only had 24 hours to get a taste for your hotel experience, what would you recommend a guest must do?
Start a perfect day at Villa La Madonna by waking up to see the sunrise – make sure to view it from your own terrace to see the sun make its way over the vines. There is a special light here in the morning you can’t see anywhere else. It’s truly mesmerising when the sun and fog meet.
Before breakfast, either start the morning with a yoga class in our own yoga studio with beautiful views over the vineyard, or head for a refreshing powerwalk around the grounds. After the activities, then it’s time to head down to the piazza and have a cappuccino and enjoy a long breakfast.
Post breakfast, spend a couple of hours by the pool in the shade or sunshine, enjoying a book or a nice swim. The pool is in a truly special location, surrounded by rows upon rows of vines.
Head back to the piazza for a Piedmontese lunch, enjoying a glass of our own rosé wine or Spumante to complement the Vitello Tonnato dish.
During the afternoon, treat yourself with a relaxing massage before it’s time for aperitivo o’clock at the piazza. We suggest you drink a classic Aperol Spritz and enjoy our local wine farmer turned opera singer, Mario performing his favourite serenade, O’ Sole Mio.
An absolute must during a stay is of course to have a wine tasting in our impressive wine cellar with our talented sommelier and wine director Josh, before you have dinner in the restaurant. For dinner, you must try any of La Mama’s pasta dishes, especially the ones with truffle. We serve black truffle all year and white during the season. Our Agnolotti Al Sugo D’arrosto is the perfect choice when choosing the Primi courses on our menu, and of course you should drink a glass of Barolo when you are in Piedmont.
We recommend everyone to explore the surrounding area – Piedmont is beautiful from all parts and the views are spectacular. If you have time, visit the famous Barolo district to discover more about one of the world’s most famous wines.
How do you think your hotel stands apart from other boutique hotels?
We have a one-of-a-kind atmosphere and a very relaxing ambiance. We love to describe it as a casual luxury. Our guests enjoy outstanding, friendly family service, and genuinely feel at home while being away. At Villa La Madonna, it’s almost as though time doesn’t exist.
The post Independent Minds: Marie & Annica Eklund, Villa La Madonna appeared first on Small Luxury Hotels.
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Five Great European Trips That Combine Culture and Skiing
Heading to Europe’s big cities after the Christmas markets have died down and before the flowers bloom is like wearing a suit on an overnight flight: People mostly tend to do it when they’re on business. From January to March, leisure travel to the continent shifts from urban hubs such as Amsterdam and Berlin to Alpine hangouts like St. Moritz, Lech, or Megève.
But European cities can be magical in winter, so why not do both? Pairing the delights of experiencing a culture capital or historical site with the adrenaline of a few glorious days on the slopes is a total travel twofer. Here are five such combos you might never have considered.
Go to Tbilisi … and ski in GudauriIs there currently a buzzier capital in Europe than Georgia’s Tbilisi? Travelers from around the globe have recently been captivated by its head-turning mix of old-world sights (like the fourth century fortress that lords over the city), unique culinary traditions, and Soviet-era architecture. While you’re there, check out Fabrika, an old sewing factory that now houses bars and artists’ studios—it’s a great example of Tbilisi’s booming art scene. Or find out why this is Eastern Europe’s hottest party city with late-night jaunts to Bassiani (abandoned pool turned techno hub) and Didi Gallery, a smallish club that attracts global house DJs.
Despite all its draws, Tbilisi is a compact city you can explore in just a couple of days, which means it’s easy to fit in the two-hour drive north to Gudauri, one of Europe’s most exciting new ski areas. With only 30 miles of skiable terrain and seven lifts, it’s not the sprawling winter wonderland of your dreams, but it is Georgia’s highest and largest resort, with excellent cat skiing, heli-skiing, and night skiing options. And it’s still growing. This year an almost 5-mile-long cable car route will connect Gudauri to neighboring Kobi, creating a unified ski area.
Where to stay: Rooms Hotels is a Georgian hospitality company that specializes in cool, hipster-approved accommodations with mix-and-match design, up-and-coming art, and internationally inspired, sustainable dining (the one in the capital is new American and serves a fabulous Georgian steak fillet). Conveniently, it has great hotels in both Tbilisi and the mountain town of Kazbegi. But if all you want is one great powder day, spring for a helicopter transfer from the capital to the slopes. It’s only a 30-minute ride, so you can hit first chair and get back to town in time for a pre-dinner massage.
Go to Cappadocia … and ski on Mount ErciyesThe otherworldly rock formations called “fairy chimneys” in Turkey’s Central Anatolia region have seduced many travelers away from Istanbul and Bodrum. But they’re just one feather in Cappadocia’s hat. There’s also Karanlik Kilise, an 11th century church decorated with stunning Biblical frescoes; the fascinating Goreme Open Air Museum, a Unesco World Heritage Site featuring several examples of rock-cut architecture that eventually became Byzantine monasteries; and the city’s famous cave dwellings, some of which have been converted into hotels.
Luxury operator Travel Atelier can organize everything from hot air balloon rides above the snow-blanketed chimneys to a day of skiing on a dormant volcano: Mount Erciyes is one of the Turkey’s largest and oldest resorts, with 34 runs that peak at 12,000 feet and spread across 70 miles.
Where to stay: Argos in Cappadocia is centrally located in the village of Uçhisar, making it convenient to both the city’s sights and Mount Erciyes, which is an 80-minute drive away. The property perfectly sums up all the region’s highlights. It’s surrounded by old-world vineyards (the hotel stocks an impressive cellar of Anatolian wines from 37 acclaimed producers); it has a cave suite with its own private pool; and its six mansions are linked by ancient tunnels and caves.
Go to Lucerne … and ski at KlewenalpSwitzerland is so small, mountainous, and well-connected that any of its charming cities will offer swift access to a variety of ski resorts. For art lovers, the picturesque lakeside town of Lucerne is an especially good choice. Its iconic Chapel Bridge is said to be Europe’s oldest wooden bridge and is covered in beautiful medieval paintings; the Rosengart Collection includes masterpieces by Chagall, Cézanne, and Picasso; and the diverse dining scene includes the lakefront Michelin-starred Prisma, where you can sample casual, fine-dining meals of curry lobster cream soup and scallops sautéed in brown butter.
Where to stay: The reopening of Bürgenstock Resort on Lake Lucerne’s southwestern bank has brought the destination plenty of renewed buzz. The 148-acre estate, previously the playground of A-listers including Sophia Loren and Audrey Hepburn, is fresh off a face-lift that added two brand-new places to stay: the marble-clad, five-star Bürgenstock Hotel and the wellness-focused Waldhotel, which is slated to become the country’s premier medi-spa. Multiple ski resorts can be found in the Bürgenstock’s backyard, but Klewenalp may be your best bet. Its challenging runs make you feel as if you’re descending straight into Lake Lucerne. (For something gentler, try Melchsee-Frutt, a family-friendly option 40 minutes away that has flatter slopes leading to a frozen lake.)
Go to Oslo … and ski in OsloIt took a long time for Oslo to develop the must-visit reputation its Scandinavian sisters Stockholm and Copenhagen have been enjoying for years. But cutting-edge architecture, art, and restaurants have finally put the city in the spotlight. Be sure to visit its two spectacular sculpture parks. The one dedicated to local artist Gustav Vigeland is the world’s largest, while the Ekebergparken features works by Rodin, James Turrell, and Marina Abramovic. That might work up your appetite for some of the city’s most lavish meals, like a 20-course feast paying homage to the Norwegian wilderness at the three-Michelin-starred Maaemo. (Chef Esben Holmboe Bang’s greatest hits include bone-in skate with salted butter and king crab glazed with buckwheat and spruce.)
If you want to experience Oslo as a local, take the 30-minute subway ride to Oslo Winter Park. With 18 trails, 1,250 feet of vertical drop, and 11 lifts, the park is small but impressive: From the top, you get fantastic city and mountain vistas. Added features, including Europe’s only public superpipe and night skiing, elevate the ski experience.
Where to stay: Oslo has few choices in the way of luxury hotels—but its best offerings are truly world-class. Pick the Hotel Continental, a recently renovated grand dame that reopens this week with all of its 153 rooms and suites thoroughly refreshed. (The owners added more art, including photographs by Solve Sundsbo, and custom-made furniture from Italy.) It also organizes ski packages that include lessons, private tours of the Ski Museum located at the base of the city’s landmarked ski jump, and helicopter excursions over the city.
Go to Ljubljana … and ski in VogelSlovenia’s jewel box of a capital offers a picturesque medley of Baroque buildings, plenty of green space, a pedestrian-only old town, and a 15th century hilltop castle. Balance the classic with the contemporary by visiting Zoofa, a women’s wear boutique stocked with independent (and all-local) labels, and Metelkova Mesto, a graffiti-covered army barrack that now houses an array of art galleries and clubs. Thirsty? The menu at Suklje, a wine bar in a whitewashed villa, runs the gamut of Slovenia’s surprisingly vast viticulture (the country has more than 28,000 wineries)—from crisp sparklings to acidic whites.
Getting your ski on requires a two-hour drive to Vogel, largely considered by locals to be the country’s best resort. It’s a visually spectacular place to ski. The mountain is inside Triglav National Park, and its eastern edge is completely untouched by human development. That doesn’t mean the mountain is lacking in infrastructure: Vogel has more than 190 acres of pistes, linked by nine lifts. After a few runs, warm up at the Orlove Glave Mountain Inn for a bowl of ricet, a fortifying soup with barley and local sausage. Assuming you’ve hired a driver for this day trip, you’d be wise to explore the restaurant’s deep list of Slovenian schnapps.
Where to stay: The months-old InterContinental Ljubljana, in a soaring glass tower just outside the old town, is the capital’s first truly modern hotel. Rooms have a residential feel and access to a rooftop restaurant serving classic Italian from chef Alfredo Russo. Post-ski day, make a beeline for the stunning 18th-floor spa, with its sauna and a zero-edge indoor pool overlooking the Alps.
Want to prioritize the skiing with a side of culture?Consider flipping the switch at these city-adjacent resorts. You can ski the Dolomites in northern Italy, with Venice just a few hours’ drive away; it’s also easy to connect with the wineries in Trentino or with the culturally fascinating towns that dot South Tyrol (a region with its own language and cuisine). In Austria, St. Anton am Arlberg has just been linked with several neighboring resorts, including Lech, and can be explored in tandem with Innsbruck. Or simply plan stops in Geneva or Zurich on your way home from Megève or St. Moritz, respectively. Both cities are compact, so you only need a short window of time.
The post Five Great European Trips That Combine Culture and Skiing appeared first on Bloomberg Businessweek Middle East.
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A Visit to Italy with Balsamic Vinegar of Modena
Several months ago, I traveled to Italy to learn all about real Balsamic Vinegar of Modena. Here’s a recap (with plenty of photos!) of the incredible three day press trip.
I arrived in Italy several days in advance of the press trip, so I could explore the lake regions north of Milan on my own (while getting adjusted to the new timezone!). Destinations included Stresa, Como, Bellagio and Varenna. I immediately fell for these picturesque lakeside towns with the breathtaking Alps looming in the background. Of the four spots, Varenna was my favorite. I still remember sitting at a cafe just a few feet away from the lake while enjoying an Aperol Spritz and small bowls of olives and crackers. A storm just starting to roll in over the mountains.
From there, I spent a day in Verona where I visited Juliette’s house and had several spectacular meals. Warm polenta with mushrooms, pecorino, gorgonzola and cured meats. Smoked burrata with anchovies, herbed butter and housemade crackers. Bigoli (a local pasta) with cheese and black pepper. Satiated and on Italian time, I made my way to Modena to immerse myself into the world of balsamic vinegar.
We started our trip by exploring the city of Modena. Located in Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region, Modena is mainly known for two things: food and cars.
One of our first stops around Modena was Mercato Albinelli, a bustling food market brimming with gorgeous, fresh produce, meat, seafood, cheese and baked goods. I just love exploring markets, because you can get a glimpse of what everyday life is like in that city. What produce is in season and produced in the region. What fish can they catch nearby. What baked goods does the city specialize in. What the locals look like and how they like to shop. There are so many vibrant scenes to take in.
I could have spent hours exploring Mercato Albinelli, but our time was limited and there was plenty more of Modena to see.
As we strolled down the cobblestone streets in the center of Modena, we stopped by a bakery whose front window was filled with pies and cakes and pastries all stacked in neat piles. The smell of Italian cookies—an aroma I distinctly remember from visiting Italian bakeries in Elizabeth, NJ as a kid—enticed me inside. Sesame seed dusted crescents. Swirled anise cookies dipped in chocolate. Crumbly sandwich cookies filled with jam. I purchased several and we strolled on.
After that, we stopped by Giuseppe Giusti, the oldest Salumeria in Modena. This family business has been operating since the early 1600’s!
Modena is also home to Massimo Bottura’s Osteria Francescana, a three-Michelin-star restaurant that has held a spot in the top 5 of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards since 2010. Dinner at Osteria Francescana would certainly be ambitious for a press trip, so instead, we had a fabulous lunch at Franceschetta58, Massimo Bottura’s trendy casual spot.
The menu included:
The famous Emilia Burger
Saba lacquered pork ribs
Red sponge cake with chocolate mousse and a local bitter liqueur
I also photographed Laura’s creamed cod with zucchini blossoms (from the meatless menu).
Below you can see the food blogger/influencer chaos that breaks out when food first hits the table.
That afternoon, we visited our first Acetaia (balsamic vinegar producer), Modena Aceti. I’ll get more into production specifics on Day 2, but for now here are some technical details. Balsamic vinegar:
must be aged in wood barrels, but the barrels can be any size
must be made with wine vinegar (minimum 10%), grape must (minimum 20%) and 10 year+ aged balsamic vinegar (in any quantity)
must be dark brown in color (max 2% caramel usage)
must be aged 2 months to 3 years for regular balsamic vinegar or 3 years+ for aged balsamic vinegar
must have a minimum 6% acidity
must be made from grapes within the region
There are two designations for balsamic vinegar of Modena: IGP and PDO. IGP requires that the production of the vinegar must happen within the Modena region; however the raw materials and bottles can come from outside the region. PDO requires that all materials come from and production happens within the Modena region.
Balsamic vinegar is a mix of wine vinegar, grape must and aged balsamic vinegar, and the flavor and texture of the vinegar depends on the ratios of the three. Grape must adds sweetness and heft, so a vinegar that has a higher percentage of grape must will be sweeter and more syrup-like. A balsamic with a lower percentage of grape must (and a higher percentage of wine vinegar) will be thinner and more acidic.
Aged balsamic can be added in any quantity to the mix (even just a drop), so its effect on flavor is unique to each bottle/producer. One important thing to note is that a balsamic’s age isn’t a direct indication of flavor. For this reason, the age of the balsamic cannot be printed on the label.
When shopping for a high quality balsamic vinegar, the best thing to look for is an IGP (blue and gold) or PDO (red and gold) label. When you see one of these labels, you’ll know that the balsamic vinegar was produced in Modena, according to their strict quality and flavor standards.
We finished our first day with a visit to Vignola Castle and dinner at Michelin-starred Stada Facendo.
Our dinner menu:
Capon salad with raisins, pine nuts, Parmesan cheese and balsamic gel.
Gnocchi with balsamic dust and crispy Parmesan rind.
Pork with pea puree, mint and potatoes
Frozen zabaglione with chocolate and caramel
A selection of sweet treats to finish
This meal was really outstanding and I especially loved the gnocchi and the frozen zabaglione.
Day two was my favorite of the whole press trip. We started with a visit to Pavarotti’s house. I didn’t know much about Pavarotti going into this, but I enjoyed learning about his life here in Modena, and I especially loved his bright yellow kitchen!
Afterwards, we had a rustic lunch at Via Cavour. The waiter was really speedy when serving us a variety of delicious pastas, so I wasn’t able to get any good shots of those. But after pasta, we enjoyed baskets of gnocco fritto along with a mouthwatering selection of salumi (pictured below).
Gnocco fritto is a puffy, fried bread from the region. We topped ours with salty, cured meats and dabs of lardo flecked with rosemary and garlic. I seriously could have snacked on these for daaaaaaayyyyys. So tasty.
Our next stop was Acetum, a gorgeous, modern Acetaia in Cavezzo. Here, we learned more about the production of balsamic vinegar of Modena:
The Start: Grape must is first boiled and concentrated by 30 to 50% before going into aging barrels.
The Casks: A typical balsamic cellar will use five to seven barrels in varying sizes and wood types (including oak, chestnut, cherry, ash and mulberry). The barrels are lined up from smallest to largest (or vice versa). This is known as a batteria.
Maturing and Aging: Traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena is aged in open barrels to allow continuous contact with oxygen. The different types of wood barrels will lend different flavors to the vinegar during the fermentation process.
Refilling: Once a year, vinegar is drawn from the smallest barrel. From there, the smallest barrel is refilled from the next barrel up. That barrel is then refilled from the next barrel up and so on. The last barrel (the largest) is topped off with freshly concentrated grape must.
This process really infuses the balsamic with so much depth of flavor as the grape must sits in various different wood barrels and mixes with fermented grape must from years past.
During this tour we also learned how the various different types of balsamic vinegar are best used with food:
A lighter, more acidic balsamic vinegar is ideal for salads and daily use.
A medium-bodied balsamic works well with grilled meats and roasted vegetables.
A full-bodied balsamic is tasty with meat and fish.
A dense and syrupy balsamic is perfect with fruit, ice cream and Parmesan and cheese.
We finished day two with a tour of Panzano Castle and a lesson on how to make tortellini, a stuffed pasta that originated in Modena. Panzano Castle is gorgeous property lush with creeping rose vines, ivy and other massive trees. The citrus trees on property were blooming at the time, perfuming the air with a mix of orange blossom and rose.
The castle is also home to an impressive collection of vintage cars. I’m not really a car guy, so I spent most of my time taking pictures of flowers 😀
While at Panzano Castle, we learned how to make traditional tortellini stuffed with a pork filling (see video above). That evening we were surprised with a traditional country meal enjoyed inside the rustic castle.
To start, tender tortellini in a warm pork broth. Then, shards of Parmesan cheese, platters of Prosciutto and Mortadella and squares of golden focaccia. We finished our meal with a dry, sweet cake, local cherries and chilled Lambrusco. We dipped slices of the cake in the red wine as an accordion player sung opera in the background. It was truly a magical evening!
Day three began with a tour of Balsamico del Duca, the smallest of Acetaia that we visited. This family-owned company started in 1891! It was nice to see all of the love that goes into the production process here. We got to experience the bottling and labeling processes being done by hand.
I completely fell in love with the balsamic vinegar that we sampled at Balsamico del Duca. We got to try one of their aged balsamic vinegars with Parmesan cheese and chocolates. The balsamic was dark, rich and so complex. I would have happily just sipped it from a spoon!
For lunch, we went through a cooking class with Daniele Reponi, a local celeb chef that specializes in making sandwiches with ingredients from the Modena region. Here are some of the tasty combinations we prepared:
Prosciutto de Modena (saltier than Prosciutto de Parma), fresh cherries, crispy Parmigiano-Reggiano
Fresh peach, Prosciutto de Modena, arugula, balsamic vinegar
Pancetta, Parmigiano-Reggiano, balsamic vinegar, white cherries soaked in Amarena
Head cheese, Parmigiano-Reggiano and orange zest
I was looooooving all of this.
That afternoon, we walked off our big lunch around the Ferrari museum and the Levizzano Castle.
We finished our trip with dinner at Antika Moka, one of the top restaurants in Modena. Here’s what we had:
Guinea fowl with agrodolce (sweet and sour).
Tortelli fileld with ricotta and spinach. Slashes of red turnip puree around the plate.
Chicken stuffed with Prosciutto de Modena and cheese. The black little dots around the plate are tiny onions cooked in Balsamic Vinegar of Modena. FAV!!
Pear crostata with zabaglione and Balsamic Vinegar of Modena.
And that’s it!! I just loved learning all about the Modena region of Italy, including all of the love and detail that goes into making Balsamic Vinegar of Modena.
A big thanks to the team that put together this fantastic press trip, including the Balsamic Vinegar Consortium.
Please comment below with your favorite way to use balsamic vinegar!
5 Source: https://www.kitchenkonfidence.com/2018/10/a-visit-to-italy-with-balsamic-vinegar-of-modena
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The One For Sale, Bel-Air Mansion
The One For Sale, Bel-Air Mansion, Large Luxury Californian Residence, US Real Estate, House Photos
The One Mansion in Bel-Air
Jan 29 + 11, 2022
The One in Los Angeles to become the Most Expensive Home Ever Sold in the U.S.
America’s Most Expensive Home For Sale – Twice As Big as the White House is price of $295 million!
Location: Bel-Air, Los Angeles, California, United States, USA
Source: TopTenRealEstateDeals
The One, California
One of the world’s most expensive homes, appropriately named The One, has just hit the market at $295 million. Once projected to list for as much as $500 million, construction ran several years late causing severe financial issues for the developer.
If The One sells anywhere near the $295 million ask, it would be the most expensive home ever sold in California, well over the $177 million that venture capitalist Marc Andreessen paid for his Malibu mansion in 2021 and the $165 million that Amazon CEO Jeff Bezos paid in 2020 for his Beverly Hills estate.
Perched on a promontory with 360-degree panoramic views of the Pacific Ocean, downtown Los Angeles and the San Gabriel Mountains, the Bel Air uber mansion is surrounded on three sides by a moat and measures in at a mind-boggling 105,000 square feet – almost twice as big as the White House. Located on 3.8 acres, the house, which was actually raised during construction to further optimize the views, includes 21 bedrooms and 49 baths.
Highlights of The One include five outdoor and indoor swimming pools with the moat encircling three quarters of the exterior, a massive nightclub, full-service beauty salon, wellness spa, 10,000-square-foot sky deck, 400-foot private outdoor running track with a glass-walled view of the city, and a private theater with seating for over 40. In addition to ownership of one of the world’s most spectacular homes, the property also includes butterfly artwork by Stephen Wilson, an Oto Murano chandelier by Vistosi, a rotating statue by Mike Fields, and a glass sculpture by Italian artist Simone Cenedese.
There is also a two-story library/office with a balcony and water features touching three windowed walls, and parquet flooring. Add in a custom bar with a smoked-mirror backsplash and marble countertops, a cigar lounge, a four-lane bowling alley, putting green, wellness center, gym, a 64-foot indoor pool with juice bar, tennis court, 10,000-bottle wine cellar, and a 30-plus car garage with two car-display turntables.
Entertaining in such unique luxury might draw some interesting Bel Air neighbors such as Jennifer Lawrence, who moved there last year, Justin Bieber, Taylor Swift, Liam Hemsworth, Miley Cyrus and Kylie Jenner to name just a few.
Bel Air is one point of the Platinum Triangle, which includes Beverly Hills and Holmby Hills, where so many stars call home. In addition to having illustrious neighbors, Bel Air is close to Rodeo Drive for shopping and UCLA. Downtown Los Angeles and LAX are just a short drive.
The property is listed by Aaron Kirman of Compass, Beverly Hills and Branden and Rayni Williams of The Beverly Hills Estates, Beverly Hills, and will go to Concierge Auctions, which if not sold prior, will be held online on February 28th.
The listing is held by Tomer Fridman & Isidora Fridman of Compass.
Source: aaronkirman.com
Photo credit: Marc Angeles, Joe Bryant and Douglas Friedman
The One Mansion in Bel-Air images / information received 110122
Location: Carmel-by-the-Sea, California, USA
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Super Soy Me - North Bay Bohemian
Like any typical chump, I planned to start an ambitious new diet on New Year's Day. Fine, the day after New Year's Day.
The diet was strict, but had just one simple rule: Eat food, mostly frozen, as much as I want, on a $100 per week budget. And here's the kicker: Eat only food that's made by Amy's Kitchen, the privately held natural foods manufacturer based in Petaluma. Yes, it was a bold plan.
Day 1: I load a frozen, gluten-free tofu scramble breakfast wrap in the microwave oven, starting the day's calorie count at 300. At lunch it's a chili mac bowl, 420 calories, and later a spinach pizza pocket sandwich, 280 calories. Dinner brings a longtime favorite to the table; veggie loaf with mashed potatoes, peas and carrots. But those 340 calories don't feel like enough, so I round out the evening with a spinach pizza snack, and 380 additional calories.
Day 2: I'm a little hungover. Ugh, what happened?
The Perils of a Cruelty-Free Diet
I'm on this diet partly to see if man can live on Amy's alone. While it's a controlled experiment, it's not an inhumane experiment, so I did not forswear the enjoyment of a few glasses of wine with dinner, before dinner, or after dinner. Besides, eliminating the beverage variable might have skewed the results, right? Instead, I opt for certified organic wine, in the spirit of Amy's Kitchen, whose listed ingredients are nearly all prefaced with "organic," save the sea salt and black pepper.
The problem: after unpacking five frozen meals from five cardboard cartons, I'd only packed in 1,720 calories on that first day. No doubt the wine hit a little harder because that's well below the 2,000 daily calories that nutrition labels are based on, or the recommended 2,400 calorie diet of a moderately active male of my age, and weight.
Ah, that weight. The other reason for the diet was to lose a little of it. I demur from saying what that weight is, lest some readers then wish to knock me around a bit, but suffice it to say that I feel like the image of some kind of corpulent, late career Orson Welles. (More like Audrey Hepburn, remarked a more portly friend a few years back. That smarts a bit, but then again—such style!) What's that about body image self-acceptance? Stuff self-acceptance in a cheeseburger. I demand to get back that flat belly that I haven't seen since age 29, and I'll try any diet in that service. The allure of Amy's is the quick and easy calorie counting, printed right on the box, and de facto portion control. The convenience of simply reheating frozen food, too, leaves more time for that moderate activity.
Lesson learned, on to Day 2: Country bake breakfast, 420 calories; veggie sausage, 55 calories; brown rice and vegetables bowl, 260 calories; meatless Italian sausage, mushroom and olive pizza, 930 calories. Yes, I know the pizza is supposed to be three separate servings, but the day's total is only 1,665 calories. Yet I feel stuffed. Might be because I'm not used to consuming so many carbohydrates (see the surprise tally at the end of the article), and that's a criticism I've heard of products like Amy's: organic or not, isn't it too high in sodium, too stuffed with carbohydrates, like other processed snack foods? When I announced my dietary goal to someone at the company (who shan't be named), in fact, the response was: "But what about vegetables?"
In an era when consumers are being advised to eat whole foods, and lower on the food chain, Amy's occupies an interesting space in between the good reputation of organic foods and the bad rap on processed foods. Frozen foods have taken some heat since the "TV dinner" days of my childhood, when, notwithstanding mom's cooking being the best, it was a special treat to have those tin foil tray dinners once a week. Meanwhile, Amy's Kitchen, launched by Rachel and Andy Berliner in 1987 (the original conceit was that they couldn't find any time-saving convenience foods that were of homemade quality, after the birth of their daughter, Amy, who is now a co-owner in the company), has puffed up from one pot pie sold in what used to be called "health food" stores in Northern California and Oregon, to 260 products sold in megastores the likes of Target, in 29 countries. Revenue in 2017 totaled $500 million.
Can they stay true to home-cooked ideals at such a scale? I've got to get behind the kale curtain, and see how the organic tofu sausage is made.
Amy's, Can You Hear Me?
Day 3: I've had no luck trying to contact the public relations desk at Amy's, so, fueled only by their breakfast scramble, 360 calories, and veggie sausage, 55 calories, I set out by bicycle for the company headquarters in Petaluma. Am I helping to offset the carbon footprint of these packaged meals, or is their economy of scale inherently more efficient than my home stovetop? Will there someday be fewer veal crates, like the ones that I'm passing by on Stony Point Road, because of vegetarian options like Amy's provides? These are things I think of on my ride. Besides that biking in heavy traffic sucks veggie meatballs.
It wasn't enough. On Lakeville Highway, a few blocks short, and fatigued, I have to turn back or else miss the last SMART train back to Santa Rosa until late afternoon.
Breakthrough at the Drive-Thru
I get a new idea on the train, remembering the Amy's Drive-Thru restaurant in Rohnert Park. It's a long shot, but at the very least, after ordering a single veggie cheeseburger and fries (alas, I am not asked to "super-size" my order to the signature double patty "Amy" burger), I can ask for any kind of help at the register. I'm in luck—Dave Wolfgram, president of Amy's Drive-Thru Restaurants, is working on his laptop a few tables over. He seems genuinely concerned and promises to hook me up with HQ.
Although this joint is as bustling as it was on my first visit over three years ago ("Understanding Amy's," Sept. 9, 2015), Amy's has rolled out their takeover of the fast food nation at, well, an organic pace. An outpost in SFO (Amy's "fly-thru"?) is scheduled for July, with a Corte Madera drive-thru opening in 2020.
How the Organic Tofu Sausage is Made
I'm in! I meet Paul Schiefer for a tour of Amy's flagship production facility, which has been located on Santa Rosa's Northpoint Parkway since the early days. Schiefer, who is a nephew to the Berliners, grew up with the business, and is now senior director of sustainability.
On the way to the dressing room where I'll don a smock, hairnet and beard net, I'm already distracted by a novel sight: two vending machines in the break room are stocked with Amy's entrées. They're sold to employees for just $1 to $1.50. But the Blue Sky organic cola in the adjacent vending machine, Schiefer admits, isn't as popular with employees as Pepsi. No strict diets here: there's a Frito-Lay option, too.
Workers are everywhere on the plant floor, monitoring computer screens, carting multi-level tray carts here and there. Look, there goes my old friend, the lentil loaf! Over there, veggie sausage, destined for a country bake. In one room, which is as big as most winery cellars I see, pinto beans cascade in an industrial waterfall, while a worker tends to a steaming kettle perched high in the middle distance.
A smaller room houses one of the largest tofu-making facilities on the West Coast, according to Schiefer. Here are whole soybeans, soaked and removed of fiber, which goes to a dairy. Then, hot soy milk pours forth, and further down the line, blocks of fresh tofu, some 9,400 pounds per day, are cut and sent on to their rendezvous with organic oats, organic bulgar wheat and organic onions and more to, yes, make the tofu sausage.
On the kettle deck, an enchilada sauce has just been made—we see it later on down the line, where freshly frozen entreés clank off the conveyor belt. Tomato sauces are made from fresh tomatoes. Vegetables such as broccoli may be fresh, or flash frozen, since there are only two harvests a year from their supplier. "We'd rather get it all fresh, in season, than go to the ends of the earth to bring it in," says Schiefer.
In the burrito room, bean and cheese filling plops onto tortillas, made fresh in the room next door, in a way that my minder from the marketing department doesn't wish me to photograph. But it's all hand work after that. One employee tells me, still folding while turning away from the assembly line to explain, that she's been honing her technique for 21 years, shaping the filling, and folding six or more ways in a flash of hand movements I can hardly follow.
One thinks of frozen foods as the ultimate deracinated, non-local product. But here, I have the dissonant revelation that, at least for the North Bay, this is truly local. All this time, my frozen bean burrito (and another 160,000 of them per day) has been hand-rolled just across town. (Soups are made in Idaho, however; pizza in Medford, Ore.)
The Results
At the end of a week, I had to stop the experiment. Not necessarily because I felt "over stuffed" on just 1,940 calories, as I noted on Day 6, or "strangely tired" on Day 7. My weight jumped up at first, but I ended up a few pounds lighter. Still, I would have been willing to carry out a more rigorous one-month experiment. But if I didn't bust my waistline, I busted my budget: $140 for seven days.
I should note that the company does not endorse an all-Amy's diet. Instead, they offer meal plans on their website incorporating fresh fruits and vegetables, nuts and smoothies, most with just one Amy's product per day. That said, I felt that I might have had a real serving of veggies with their Asian-inspired entrées, like the dumplings in savory Hoisin sauce, and for a frozen food, they tasted fresh enough. And in the harvest casserole bowl, there's surely close to a half-cup of sweet potatoes, kale and Swiss chard—it'd be hard to excuse all that quinoa otherwise.
According to Schiefer, I'm correct in my assessment that while the frozen food business is stagnant in general, Amy's is bucking the trend, and has been growing faster than the category for years. Still, some of the traditional tray-style dinner styles have been pulled off the line: RIP, Southern meal, chili and corn bread, and good ol' veggie steak and gravy.
All told, I ate not more than 1,700 calories per day. The protein count averaged 67 grams daily — not bad — and carbohydrates actually averaged less than the Daily Value, at 200. But sodium indeed hit more than 3,200 milligrams per day, higher than the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention's recommendation of less than 2,400, but a little under the average American's intake. Amy's does offer low sodium versions with less than half that of the typical entrée.
The next week I flipped a 180 and launched an ultra-low-carb diet of meat, cheese and vegetables for the next month. I felt pretty good on it. And I gained back five pounds.
Source: https://www.bohemian.com/northbay/super-soy-me/Content?oid=8755813
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Moments Preserved
TUESDAY, P.M.
Dear Carl
I’m so glad you came over the other night; it was so very nice being with you, and may I say you’ve never looked so pretty nor been more charming – which is saying a good deal! Best
Maurice
It was the last day of my book tour in New York. I had some appointments in the morning but we were all packed for our return to France in the afternoon and the only thing remaining to find out, was how much time would we have for lunch and how would we use it. Oddur, always obsessed with finding the perfect “Italian joint” (which he will never find because it only exists in his mind à la “Vanilla Sky”), had this wild plan that we would somehow manage a sit down, three-course lunch, as if we hadn’t had so many of those already, as if we don’t eat like that all the time. I was more thinking some delicious street food, I was checking my sources in the taxi, doing logistics research on my phone. We do, I must admit, always fuss over lunch … and dinner. As I returned to the hotel Oddur confirmed to me what I had started to suspect when I left my men in the morning. Lucian was too sick to travel, he needed to see a doctor, it simply couldn’t wait. The first appointment I could get was in the afternoon which brought us back to lunch. I was feeling charitable so Oddur got to go and have his potential Italian dream lunch, but first he had to bring me a takeaway from Shake Shack. I had never tried it and as they say, when in Rome. It was good by the way. In the afternoon we took our boy to the Doctor who gave him what he needed and later we took turns staying with him in the hotel. From my hunt I brought back toys, Christmas decorations, turtlenecks and underwear for the kids. Oddur brought vintage Champagne and a second hand, out of print book by Irving Penn, his favorite photographer. The book is called “Moments Preserved” and he found it at the Strand bookstore in the Flatiron district. We couldn’t really go out to dinner with a sick little boy so ordering in was our best bet. Oddur went for Pizza and meatballs, I went for Korean. Sitting on a hotel bed, having his and hers takeaway, drinking fabulous Champagne was frankly pretty great.
Oddur was pouring over his new book, showing me something on every page when a unobtrusive, hardly noticable beige little postcard slipped out of the book and onto the bed. It’s a drawing of two men hugging and kissing, titled “Deux hommes s’embrassant“. On the backside there’s a touching little note. Once upon a time this note made a man called Carl happy, that night it made us happy. And whether you like to call it fate or chance – the note has no date, only Tues, P.M. That’s when we found it, Tuesday, November 15th 2016, sometime late in the P.M.
Look for the silver lining, and a Champagne toast to Carl and Maurice wherever they are.
CONFESSIONS OF A BAD BLOGGER
When I started this blog I did it out of love for food and cooking. Out of love for my new-found life in the countryside, love for my adopted home region, Médoc. I wasn’t very familiar with many other food bloggers but I noticed that some of them, particularly those who had written cookbooks or had enjoyed some measure of success, started posting infrequently. They starting apologising. Most of their blogposts began with the words “I’m sorry” or “I’ve been so busy”. I never thought it would happen to me. So I’m not really apologising, but instead I’d like to make a statement.
I believe that things can’t stand still, they need to evolve. I’ve loved every minute I’ve spent writing and cooking for this blog and I feel that we’ve reached crossroads. Do I give up or do I give everything. It’s been a very hectic, demanding year. The birth of a beautiful boy, so many trips, workshops, wonderful people, wonderful meals. A roller-coaster ride of a year. I did the best I could. And here’s the miracle of 2016 (which was a fantastic year for Médoc wines as well). My best was better than I thought. When I was young. Say 20, I thought I knew just about everything. We all do. I was, of course, wrong. All I’ve learnt is that I did not and I still don’t. But I’ve grown stronger. This year has had its enjoyable challenges, we’ve come through them all and learnt from them. Every night, as I look at Lucian sleeping I can’t help but feel “we did it”. Whatever that means. Here we are, still. He’s my lucky charm, my armour, my beacon. Life really is the greatest teacher and the greatest adventure.
This year will be different, it will be new. Last year I said we’d change the blog, but instead we’ve changed our minds. It will stay the same, no new designs, nothing new just same old. But, we’ll launch a new site in early spring (we’ve been working on this for a while) with many more contributors, new entries every few days. Manger will be a part of it, but only a small part.
If this was a trailer for a movie the voice would say:
“Food has a new home – 1 rue de Loudenne”
Stay tuned 🙂
THE CHRISTMAS MEAL BEFORE CHRISTMAS
How much poultry can you eat in a month? A lot it turns out, especially when you live near the most amazing chicken farm in France, La Ferme de Vertessec. Unfortunately other people know about it too so the queue, just before Christmas is … long. On our way to Bordeaux on the 22nd we stopped by to pick up our Christmas order, poultry sausages, pâtés, crépinettes (I’ll explain later what those are). A few chicken, some pigeons, some quails. The stuffed “chapons” of course are the stars of the show so we took 3 of those. The kids waited in the car but Oddur and I braved the crowds. It’s so popular that a local TV station was even on location filming the occasion. We were second last, 50 people ahead of us, behind us, one elderly man, with a red face, beret and a moustache. When it was finally our turn I asked if I could kindly take a photo with Madame Petit, the owner. It took maybe 30 seconds, but those 30 seconds were the final straw for the man behind us. “one and a half hour” he said. Ça suffit – that’s enough! Then he stormed out. I can’t help laughing when I think about him queueing again the next day – for his wife will surely have sent him back.
And while I’m on the subject of our region and the incredible produce we have. What food we’ve had. What wine we’ve had. Sometimes I take it for granted but oh boy does Médoc have the best wine in the entire world. Christmas is the time for indulging and indulge we have. Where do I begin. I’m going to pretend that I remember all the great wines we’ve had this holiday but it’s actually my husband who is supplying the data. The 1981 Léoville las Cases, the 1990 Clos du Marquis, the 1989 Palmer. The 2000 Lafon-Rochet. The 2003 Larrivaux and the 2003 Tour Haut-Caussan (the best buys in the group). The 2000 Lynch Bages and Oddur’s all-time favorite the 1996. What else did we have? The amazing 2005 Calon Ségur, the 2000 Léoville Barton. The 2003 Ducru Beaucaillou. We had another bottle of the 1990 Léoville Las Cases which may be the finest wine we had all year.
On the 23rd of December our house was stocked to the rafters of the best food you could possibly dream up. Over a hundred bottles of Champagne, foie gras, tins of caviar lining my fridge. A huge ham waiting to be cut in the larder, bags and bags of home made stock in the freezer. Cases of wine, birds galore. A veritable vegetable and flower symphony in that fantasy room of my husband’s we call the “boucherie”. Gifts wrapped, dogs groomed, sheets ironed and washed. The house was clean, the weather was good. Even the seafood platter was waiting in the cellar perfectly ready at the perfect temperature. Let’s be clear – this sort of thing never ever happens in this house. We are, by definition, a chaotic bunch.
It’s a weird feeling, being ready long before you’re supposed to. It’s not really in our genes. So we did what we always do – we decided to mess it up a little and cook up a feast before the other, more formal feast. A bird it was, this time a big fat guinea fowl with the most alluring vegetables, a lot of oysters and crépinettes to start and to finish a divine vanilla chestnut cake that I fell in love this winter. A few times we cheated a little and served it with imported cherries which is usually a no no but when Santa Claus brings you some it would be impolite not to eat them. This lunch was so good, so improvised and so last minute and I’m happy to share it with you. Christmas may be over but good food is always in fashion and I dare you to resist that vanilla chestnut cake.
PRECIOUS MOMENTS
Christmas is all about family, coming together for a few days and enjoying each others company. Gifts are great, food and wine is even better but being with your loved ones tops everything. This Christmas we were united. Oddur and I and our 8 children. But Christmas does not last forever and early in January it was time for our eldest, Gunnhildur and Þórir to go back to school in Iceland. One last lunch was in the cards. Something simple, probably not poultry. We decided on a family favorite, a pasta with rosemary, radicchio and parma ham. I think I found it once upon a time in a River Café cookbook. Bags were packed, lunch was 10 minutes away, the kids were already getting late for the airport, and in storms my husband saying “the light is incredible in the staircase, let’s take everybody’s portraits”. So we did, and we hugged and posed and the little girls even sang. It felt almost silly taking these pictures but now they are …
Moments preserved.
With a brand new and exciting year ahead of us, with so many exciting things planned we simply need help. Allegra, who stayed with us for just under two years – which was longer than planned, has left for her native Italy and we wish her well. Ours is a busy house and coming here for a work experience, while often fun and always delicious also has its challenges. We need people who are not afraid to get their hands dirty, who like kids & dogs. People who enjoy kitchen life & cooking, village life, gardening and photography. People with a lot of passion and a lot of grit. Right now we haven’t really decided exactly what or who we are looking for, or even if we’re looking for one person or two. I believe that good things happen when you’re not looking for them so I’d rather throw this out now and see what comes my way. I have my ideas but I am also open for suggestions. As they say – let’s talk 🙂 If you are interested, please email me at [email protected] with your details and introduction.
Really looking forward to hearing from you!
Note: Audrey is wearing the prettiest dress by Amaia Kids.
Crépinettes are little sausage parcels wrapped in caul fat that people in our Bordelais region traditionally have for Christmas. They are always served with oysters and they make a perfect pair. I guess it’s the French version of “surf & turf“. Haha!
Roast guinea fowl with chestnuts, apples and red cabbage
1 large guinea fowl, approx. 3 to 4 pounds/ 1.5-1.8 kg (you can alternate and use a chicken instead) 1 medium-sized red cabbage 3 red onions, peeled and quartered 20 ounces/ 570 g peeled cooked chestnuts 8 small red apples, quartered A glass or two of Bordeaux red wine (or any of your favourite cooking wine) ¼ cup/ 60 g unsalted butter, in small chunks Olive oil A small bunch of thyme, rosemary and a bay leaf Salt and pepper
Preheat the oven to 350°F/180°C.
Season the guinea fowl inside and out with salt and pepper.
Slice the cabbage into 1 inch/2.5 cm large strips. Slice the onions and apples into quarters, (leaving stems on).
In a medium-sized pan, heat olive oil and sauté one of the onions for 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Then add a handful of chestnuts and a handful of cabbage. You just want enough to insert into the bird’s cavity for the stuffing.
Drizzle the roasting pan with olive oil. Stuff the bird with the sautéed vegetables and the thyme, rosemary and bay leaf.
Place bird in the center of the pan and scatter the apples, onions, cabbage and chestnuts. Season with salt and pepper, and drizzle the bird and vegetables with olive oil.
Transfer pan to the preheated oven and cook for 1 hour and 20 minutes. After 1 hour drizzle the pan with red wine and scatter small chunks of butter all over the vegetables.
Leave the bird to rest before carving and toss all the veggies together so they get coated with the sauce.
Vanilla Chestnut cake
18 ounces/ 500 g crème de marron (sweetened vanilla chestnut cream) 1/2 cup/55 g self-raising flour, sifted 4 eggs, separated 1/3 cup/80 g salted-butter + extra for the pan, softened at room temperature 4 Glazed chestnuts/ marrons glacés (optional) Confectioner’s sugar, for dusting
Preheat the oven to 350°F/180°C.
In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks, softened salted-butter and chestnut cream until smooth. Fold in the flour. Whisk the egg whites until stiff and gently fold them into the mixture.
Generously butter a cake pan, approx 9 inches, or medium-sized bundt pan (like I did), and dust with a little flour. Shake off any excess flour, then pour the cake batter into the cake pan.
Bake for approximately 40 minutes, or until the cake is golden. (please note that a Bundt pan will take slightly longer because it is deeper).
You can decorate with glazed chestnuts (optional) for a more festive touch. Sprinkle with confectioner’s sugar.
Source: http://mimithorisson.com/2017/01/14/moments-preserved/
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