#home hunters ph

[chocobochaserstories]

Jackrabbit (FFVII Story)

Jackrabbit - Part One Fun little story idea, I'll see if I lose interest halfway through. Age shifting for my convenience: Tseng (36) Reno (32) Elena (17) TW: Suicide mention, referenced teen pregnancy, terrorism, child soldiers,

"The bunny is cute and speaks in squeaks, but the hare is a wise creature that speaks in tongues because the woods are cold and the trees are listening. The rocks whisper among the cold and the jackrabbit carries on without a word because he knows not to test the ways of the wood." -- Luca, 11.24.2024

“What exactly is so bad about a group named after bunnies?” Elena questioned, pulling her ripped pant leg free from where it’d snagged on the jagged metal of the rubble. 

“I know that you’re a rookie and all but you’ve seriously never heard of the Hares?” Reno questioned, shining his PHS flashlight over a drop to see how bad it was before he threw himself off the ledge. “Listen, kid, the Hares are insane, and I don’t mean that in an overstatement.”

Reno kicked the broken metal door out of the way. Elena followed behind him, posing her question. “I mean, I’ve heard of them, but they’re just a gang of wannabe crimelords, aren’t they?”

“Listen, ‘Lena, you and Emma were lucky to grow up on the plate. Two parents workin’ for Shinra, stable home, relatively safe neighborhood,” Reno approached a mainframe computer that might’ve once controlled the reactor, cursing quietly to himself when it appeared the parts had been taken, likely by a scrapper. “But I didn’t have that luxury.”

“Your point?” Elena questioned. “I mean, no offense, but your background about coming from the slums isn’t exactly a secret to the Turks.”

Reno rolled his eyes and ruffled her hair, chuckling as Elena bristled and yelled at him. “Listen to your elders and let me finish.”

“The Hares aren’t just ‘wannabe crimelords’... Though it’d be fuckin’ great if that’s all they were.” Reno “The Hares were a group of assassins and bounty hunters, and were known for their brutality and skill. They were associated with Avalanche, or they were at some point. Honestly, it’s kind of hard to know if they were a sub branch, an alliance, or whatever. And their methods were known to be barbaric. They’d recruit kids off the street, leave ‘em damaged, resorting to self mutilation and addictions to cope with the trauma. Most often left their members mentally scarred and psychologically unstable, which fed into a big ‘don’t trust anyone’ mindset down in the slums.”

Elena’s brown eyes widened at the description. “You say that like you’ve had experience.”

Reno shook his head. “If you’re implying I’m an ex-Hare or some shit, no, no I wasn’t. Dated a girl down in the slums who went on to become one, though. I don’t know, gods, I was probably your age back then. Honestly, I still don’t know if we ever really dated or we were just horny teens who mutually enjoyed fucking.”

“Gross.” Elena’s nose wrinkled at the visual of her superior in that light. “I don’t want to hear about that.”

Reno chuckled. “Yeah, yeah. But anyhow, it was just me, my sister, and my girlfriend against the world.”

“You have a sister?” Elena hadn’t known that.

“Had one. She went missing when I was like sixteen. She was fifteen at the time. Police told us she was a runaway. They closed the case a couple months later when they found her shoes neatly set aside in a reactor. She knew how a reactor works. She knew there wouldn’t be a body to find.” Reno sighed. “I just wish I knew what drove her to suicide.”

“I…” Elena was at a loss for words. “I’m so sorry.”

Reno didn’t say anything. A tense silence fell over the bombed out reactor. A clatter sounded, followed by a soft curse. Reno’s eyes narrowed. “We’re not alone here, it seems.”

A pair of hooded figures stood among the reactor rubble. One wore a sheepskin-lined jacket and the other had a toolkit fastened to her hip under hers. Was that a girl? Reno couldn’t be sure, since the Hares tended to be as young as they were. He imagined the small sized Hare was probably a girl due to the delicate, bony frame, but it could just be a sickly little boy, not that it exactly mattered; the Hares were technically wanted criminals as far as Shinra was concerned. 

“Pincer them, and don’t let them escape.” Reno instructed Elena in a hushed tone before drawing his rod. He raised his voice back to an authoritative speaking tone. “Alright, pipsqueaks, we can do this the easy way, and you two can surrender, or we can do this the hard way. Either way, you two are coming with us.”

“You Turks usually carry pink guns with rhinestones and butterflies?” The Hare in the sheepskin put his hands up, abandoning the gun in its holster on his hip.

Elena narrowed her eyes and huffed out a cry of ‘rude!’ She focused her gun on the male Hare. “Big talk for a street rat with a compact Glock. Yeah, don’t think I didn’t ID that little toy you’re carrying.”

“Aw, and they said girls weren’t supposed to have dirty mouths. Though maybe I shouldn’t be so shocked since you’re playing in the all boys club.” The Hare sneered.

“You two, enough banter,” Reno tapped his rod on his shoulder and cracked his knuckles on his free hand. “Now, hands up, the both of you- yes I mean you too, young lady- and just follow us out and no one gets too badly hurt.”

Both Hares put their hands up and took a step back. The boy’s boot hit the ground and the metal under them quaked. Reno’s eyes widened. “The Hell?”

Elena fell to the ground as she lost her footing, her gun toppling out of her hold and her blonde hair falling into her face, obscuring her vision. The Hare kicked the gun away and picked his partner up. How was he standing? What had triggered the earthquake? Was this an earthquake? 

“So long, shitbirds.”

***

“Explain to me just what the hell went wrong.” Tseng’s eyes were narrower than usual as the Turks stood before him, both covered in dust and soot and ruined suits.

“Encountered a pair of Hares, one did something in the reactor and triggered an earthquake. I don’t know, it’s all kind of a blur.” Reno shrugged. He’d failed missions before, plenty more embarrassing than this.

Tseng scoffed. “Define ‘something’.”

“He stomped on the reactor floor and made it feel like the whole damn place was coming down,” Reno scowled. “Probably hit an unstable spot in the rubble, was lucky he didn’t collapse the place.”

“And you expect me to believe that a child knew enough about an unstable reactor ruin to trigger a structural-based attack?” Tseng’s hands were folded in front of him. “You’re both dismissed. Hit the showers and I expect a full report from both of you, detailing exactly where the actual fuck happened.”

Elena sighed in a tense relief when she got out of the briefing. She was definitely in trouble, she knew that much. She was a rookie Turk, brand new, and she wasn’t quite sure the boss wasn’t going  fire her ass if she kept messing up. She pressed the elevator buttons and headed up to her home. Her sister didn’t live with her parents like she did. She wasn’t really sure where Emma’d gone. Her sister was one of the many Turks who’d defaulted after Tseng took over as Head of the Turks following the fall of Veld. She had zero clue where she’d gone though. Military training was Emma’s entire life; What was she supposed to do outside of Midgar if she wasn’t actively working for Shinra? 

“Elena, welcome home.” Her mother was folding laundry when she got the front door unlocked. “Dinner’s in the kitchen, your dad said he’d probably be late in the office, so he probably won’t be home until after you get to bed.”

“Mom!” Elena blushed. “I’m not a little kid anymore.”

Her mother laughed. “No, no I suppose you’re not. You’re a brave, strong Turk.”

“Investigative General Affairs Agent,” Elena corrected. “You’re not supposed to call me a Turk, you’re not supposed to know I am one!”

Her mother laughed. “Oh please, Tseng and I have been friends for the last twenty years, don’t act like I don’t know what you do.”

Elena sighed as she reheated the plate of fish and vegetables. Her mother had grown fond of fish when she was pregnant with her sister. Her mother had grown up in the Midgar undercity, but Elena and Emma were born in Junon. She’d never had access to fish since Midgar was landlocked. She was lucky enough to get some now that she and her husband lived on the plate. 

Both Emma and Elena took after their father. Both were blondes, and Emma had their father’s blue eyes. Elena had her paternal grandmother’s brown eyes, though she’d died when her father was young, her paternal grandfather too, though he’d died recently. He didn’t like her mother, or the girls, so she didn’t see him often, if ever, personally. Her father had a rocky relationship with his dad, and she honestly didn’t know anything about her mother’s parents, other than her mother had mentioned her own mother died when she was very young, younger than when her husband had lost his mother. No one really knew where Elena really lived, and her mother had made it pretty clear that she should keep it quiet. Her parents were important to Shinra, so she figured that it was a safety matter. 

Her parents were young when she and Emma were born. Her parents were sixteen when Emma was born and nineteen when Elena was born. Her mother had her and her sister when they lived in Junon, and they hadn’t moved to Midgar until Elena was about eight. Her mother had mentioned that she was very lucky that their father had a spot with Shinra secure, or things could have been much rockier. Her mother had legal training and political science degrees, but she wasn’t a lawyer, even if she had all the prerequisites to be. She worked with Reeve in his division, where she wrote laws and contracts and clauses and the like. 

Her mother set a folded set of pajamas on the counter. “Leave your uniform out of the hamper when you shower. I’ll sew it up for you.”

Elena mumbled a thanks as she began to wash her plate. 

“What happened to it?” Her mother asked, beginning to chop up vegetables in what Elena recognized as meal prep. For her parents to both work full time and her herself working now, they didn’t have much time to prepare meals.

“I fell, is the short answer.” Elena rested her head on her hand. “I kept getting it snagged on reactor scraps and once the damn thing was ripped I kept catching the rips on the rubble.”

“Language, dear.” Her mother tsked softly, setting the carrots and celery into the large silicone cubes to freeze. Elena recognized she was probably making soup. “You alone or were you partnered?”

“Reno,” Elena started. “Rude’s out in Modeoheim for something, Tseng didn’t tell Reno and me.”

“Reno, hm?” Her eyes darkened, and Elena couldn’t tell what exactly crossed her mother’s turquoise eyes; anger, sadness, fear, anxiety. She sighed and went to the refrigerator. “A shame, we’re out of bones.”

“Bones…?” Elena pondered out loud.

“For soup.” Her mother shook her head. “I’m certain your father took the few we had to work and fed them to the dog. You know how she is.”

Elena sighed and picked up the pajamas. “Yeah, yeah I know.”

“Good night, Elena.”

[rebeccathenaturalist]

Species You Didn’t Know Weren’t Native to North America

There are some species found here in North America that are so common that many people just assume they’re part of the native menagerie. They’re naturalized, which means they’re non-native but have managed to establish reproducing populations here. Some may also be considered invasive, in that they aggressively compete with native species and may even displace them in some places.

I know some of you readers will already be familiar with the fact that the following species aren’t native here. But I bet there’ll be surprises for the rest of you! Let’s see who our not-actually-natives are.

Ring-necked Pheasant (Phasianus colchicus)

Hunters across the continent have long hunted pheasants for the table. First introduced in 1773–exactly 250 years ago–they have since made themselves at home in fields and meadows. While the largest populations can be found in the Midwest, especially the Great Plains states, they can be found throughout the United States, with additional scattered populations in southern Canada and Mexico.

While sometimes assumed to have integrated into their introduced habitats, pheasants actually wreak havoc on native game birds like quail and grouse. They compete for suitable food and nest sites, and may also practice nest parasitism, laying their eggs in other birds’ nests. This competition has led to decreases in native bird populations, as has the spreading of diseases that the pheasants tolerate, but which decimate other species. Pheasants will even attack and kill other birds.

So what other species made the list? Keep reading to find out!

Cross Orb Weaver (Araneus diadematus)

Fall is cross orb weaver time, and I run into these spiders constantly–sometimes literally, depending on how inconveniently their webs are placed! By that time of year, they’ve grown large enough to be noticeable, and their orange and brown coloration looks rather festive.

While I haven’t been able to find any indication that these spiders have a deleterious effect on their introduced ecosystems, they likely put at least some pressure on local invertebrate populations, whether as predators or competitors for prey species. This may become more pronounced as continued overuse of pesticides and habitat loss contribute to the invertebrate apocalypse.

Honey Bee (Apis mellifera)

“Save the bees!” has been an increasingly common headline since Colony Collapse Disorder first became widely known among the general public almost twenty years ago. What the articles rarely mention is that the honey bee is actually a domesticated insect that originated from wild stock in Europe. In fact, the true wild honey bee may be close to extinction, another victim of its domesticated descendants.

In fact, honey bees cause the decline of wild bee species wherever they are introduced. Not only do they compete with wild bees for food and nest sites, but they also spread diseases and parasites to these other species, some of which have become quite scarce. Moreover, honey bees are less effective at pollinating native plants outside their own range, and these species are at risk of extinction if their native pollinators are out-competed.

Another invertebrate beloved of gardeners here, the earthworms actually consist of a mix of both native and non-native species. Unfortunately, many native earthworms went extinct during the last Ice Age, so if your area has a recent glacial history it’s likely that the worms in your garden are invasive. (That does include the red wigglers (Eisenia fetida) commonly used for vermicomposting.)

What damage can a bunch of worms do? Plenty, as it turns out. They speed up decay and mix up nutrients in the soil in ways that many North American ecosystems aren’t used to. This changes physical characteristics of the soil like pH, texture, and density, as well as distribution of nutrients. Some young plants may not be able to reach nutrients that worms have moved deeper underground. So while you may thank earthworms for aerating the soil in your garden, they’re more of a problem for a lot of native ecosystems here.

umbleweed (various species)

“Drifting along with the tumbling tumbleweeds,” sang the Sons of the Pioneers in 1934, though tumbleweeds have been associated with the American West for much longer. Several species of plant dry out, snap off the root system, and roll along the ground spreading the mature seeds. The best-known species is the Eurasian Kali tragus, though there are other species that have been introduced here.

Because these plants take up a lot of physical space, they can crowd out native plants, especially those that are not shade-tolerant. Their seed distribution method means that one plant can spread its descendants many miles from where it originated. Moreover, the masses of dead, dry tumbleweeds can build up and become wildfire fuel.

Red Clover (Trifolium pratense) and White Clover (Trifolium repens)

These two plants are so ubiquitous that it’s easy to assume they’ve always been here. White clover is especially common in lawns, and red clover will pop up in just about any disturbed sunny spot. Both are native to Europe and Asia, and red clover additionally may be found in North Africa. However, both species have been widely introduced elsewhere.

While neither is considered particularly invasive, they can take over large areas of disturbed land. They are deliberately sown for cover crops and livestock forage, so they’re not likely to go away any time soon.

Stinging Nettle (Urtica dioica)

This is one of the most popular spring plants for foragers; chemicals that cause irritation can be removed through soaking the plants in water or cooking them. Although stinging nettle grows well in large areas of the United States, Mexico, and southern and western Canada, it is actually native to northern Africa, Europe, and Asia.

Stinging nettle makes itself at home in forested settings in particular. While it doesn’t create the same sorts of monocultures that, say, Himalayan blackberry does, it can shade out smaller plants with its broad leaves.

Saffron Milkcap (Lactarius deliciosus)

People don’t often think of fungi when it comes to non-native and invasive species, and yet there are fungi that have been moved around to new areas, often with their partner plants. Some are tiny soil fungi, but there are those that produce visible fruiting bodies. The edible saffron milkcap is one of these. It is mycorrhizal with pine trees in its native Europe, and managed to form connections with pines in North America as well.

As saffron milkcap does not cause any known diseases of plants, it is not considered an invasive species in the way that chestnut blight (Cryphonectria parasitica) is. While the mycelium of saffron milkcap may certainly compete for some of the same soil nutrients as native species in the same area, it has not become aggressive enough to displace native fungi.

Death Cap (Amanita phalloides)

There are large, white Amanita species native to North America, like A. ocreata and A. bisporigera, both known colloquially as “destroying angels.” The death cap, however, is native to Europe. It has been spreading through parts of the United States, particularly along all the coastlines, and may sometimes be yellow-tinted. Its close cousin, the European destroying angel (A. virosa), has made a few appearances in New England and southern Quebec according to iNaturalist’s map of research-grade observations.

While these invasive Amanitas do not cause widespread ecological damage, they are considered invasive due to their extreme lethality. One cap is sufficient to kill a healthy adult human being.

Did you enjoy this post? Consider taking one of my online foraging and natural history classes or hiring me for a guided nature tour, checking out my other articles, or picking up a paperback or ebook I’ve written! You can even buy me a coffee here!

[kinglazrus]

Wip Game

Tagged by @dekalko-mania and @bibliophilea! Check out Dekal's answers here, and Bib's answers here.

RULES: post the names of all the files in your WIP folder, regardless of how non-descriptive or ridiculous. Let people send you an ask with the title that most intrigues them, and then post a little snippet or tell them something about it! and then tag as many people as you have WIPs.

So... I have a lot of wips for a lot of fandoms. To make things easier, I'm only putting the DP ones, otherwise this list would have like 100 fics, maybe more. Also not doing wips that I've posted chapters for.

First date redo

Behind enemy lines

The Hunter

Multitudes

Laundry Day

Alike in Immortality original

Treat

Trick

GUTS

LAIR

Empty Grave

Love Yourself

Ph is for Failure

Lost in Time

Mind of Our Own

Afternoon Snack

Body

Death of my Enemy

Field Trip Gone Wrong

Ghost ptsd

Kingly Woes

No Place Like Home

Paulina v Dash

The Other Side

Therapy for the Recently Deceased

Came Back Wrong (Again)

GIW Perspective

Human Again

Tarot & Stalker

The Games We Play

The Hunted

Time Loop

Crush My Lungs

What They Made You

Ice in His Veins

Sand for His Heart

why the fuck am i starting a new story

Written Destiny

Sandman

Dan's Return

Dani afraid of danny

Everyone knows

Fog-splatter

Ghost Child

Green-Eye Boy

Hanahaki's disease

In Time

Interrogation

It Never Happened

Just a Little Different

Keeping Curfew

Kwan

Light Sensitivity

Maddie.exe

Outsider pov

Portal Danny

Quarantine

residual powers

Sam

Shiptember 9.30

Sidney Poindexter

Stuck

(redacted)

The Funeral

Unbecoming

Unfinished Business

week fic

Welcome to the Neighbourhood

I will not be tagging as many people as wips because that's just way too many, but if anyone sees this and wants to do it, feel free! I love seeing these.

@q-gorgeous @nickelodeonstudios @ghostgothgeek @lexosaurus @wastefulreverie @underforeversgrace

[silverloreley]

How would Bruno Madrigal and Cecil de Vil get along?

Well enough, I suppose. It's all about the circumstances of their first meeting, really.

Here's how I see it: Cecil de Vil, who had spent almost a whole year doing video campaigns and fomenting protests to get his niblings out of the Isle of the Lost, trying to raise awareness about the inequality of the crimes people were sent to the Isle for and so on (his sister is in there for stealing dogs! it's not the same as killing multiple people or cursing lands! and Hunter and Ivy were kids who did stupid stuff!), is caught at last and shipped, making it evident his smear campaign against the banishment was pretty much right but ending up as a victim of the system himself. (he never figured out who to blame. people are quick to point fingers at the Beast, but there's something that doesn't work in it, a cog stuck somewhere, someone else behind it all...)

So, he's on a barge and there he meets one of the people he was trying to advocate for (sure, the protest started for his family, but it ended up involving a lot more people), aka Bruno, the man who could see bad futures and Auradon deemed too dangerous to stay free. Bruno, who is shaking and is sad to have left his family behind and hopes they'll be fine, much like Cecil, but with the important difference that the Madrigals were left alone save for him, while Cecil was going to be reunited with his family on the Isle.

The people in the last barges compare notes, share facts, see patterns, perhaps they figure out something (the Security Services are a tad too independent, started to pick people on their own, the royals are too worried about the post-war economy to chase minor criminals like that...), but it's pretty useless because they have no one to share them with except for each other and no one can help them at this point. Hell, Cinderella, a queen, was unable to save her stepsister who she had openly forgiven, once in the Barrier, there's no way out! There was no chance to begin with.

So, Cecil takes pity on Bruno, because Cecil knows he'll have the support of his family once there, as will most of the people of the last barges (Anastasia's husband, the Delgados from Avalor, and so on) while Bruno will be all alone. And Bruno kind of latches to that small kindness. Bruno knows how to make himself useful, it's how he was raised, so that's what he'll do on the Isle, work with those people like them, the ones who weren't criminals and knew how to live a non-magic, ordinary life.

Once Cecil gets on the Isle, the de Vils already have their own properties (Hell Hall, PH's lab, plus some stuff they put their hands on like a couple normal homes and, most importantly, the electric plant, entirely garbage-powered, that PH put together/fixed and the de Vil family controls) and it's easy for a community to form around him, the only one with assured stability, a community of the ones who are not Villains with a capital V. Bruno is a part of it for sure, he has tons of practical, everyday knowledge to share, not like Cecil, who grew up rich and knows a lot less but knows how to listen and recognizes talent and usefulness.

So Cecil and Bruno are not, like, best friends, some people could think of Bruno as one of Cecil's minions, judging from the outside (Cecil doesn't have minions, but Villains thinks in those terms), but for sure they are part of a community and had to rely on each other multiple times, which made them a bit close, close enough that Cecil knows he can ask Bruno to accompany him to do delicate or important jobs and Bruno knows he can reach for Cecil if he's in a pinch, like if people didn't pay him or if he didn't gain enough, Cecil will help.

Once Cruella shows interest in Bruno, Cecil is enthusiastic. He knows Ella remarried a few times but, hey, maybe that's the real thing this time? And he likes the idea of Bruno being his brother-in-law and greets him with open arms and Bruno is happy about it, Cecil is a friend to him, in his view, he was from the beginning, so he leans into the situation and they get closer.

It lasts until Cruella decides to kick Bruno out (and he sneaks back in, in his own way), but even after, they sort of keep in contact and keep helping each other a bit. It's rare to have strong allies on the Isle, but the community around Cecil is solid, he knows the value of connections, and Bruno will always be a part of it.

Oh, dear, that got long. As usual, LOL

[stellarhistoria]

SCATTERED ACROSS THE SANDS: GROUP AU FOR THE CYTOS FAM.

♡.   trigun.au ( cytosfamily )     ⁄ ⁄   scattered across the sands .

you're bewitched by the devil's lullaby. Perhaps the least aware of how things work in a desert environment, having grown up around a cold and forested environment for a long time only then moving to a proper cityscape when he was already an adult, Zack would be the one to offer water repeatedly and then be confused as to why he's getting in trouble with the higher ups. sir/ma'am i'm just giving someone water. is there an issue? what do you mean i shouldn't have that much, it's my water- Jests aside, once he realizes how things work, he would easily climb ranks in the society, but do so in the way of leveling the playing field, even if it meant drawing trouble to himself. When his youngest baby sister sends him a magical Sending message, he pulls back immediately and returns to engineering something to help her husband, Axcel, be put at ease - or come pick at least her up off this terrible planet.

there's so much hatred in such a vibrant world. it makes me sad. Alcaeus Mallas, known only as Kae (or to some who only see him in ghosting trails of his coat, The Spirit of Ju-Lai), wanders the "empty" city of Ju-Lai, as he learns after weeks its name, acting as a lone caretaker for the silence that carries so much weight. He cares little for what people claim, cares little for who might tread there, only if they treat the silence with such respect as he does. He is not his second to youngest sibling, no cleric or official priest. He's just some mad alchemist with a penchant for challenging fate. As days turn into weeks, Kae begins to experiment with what the sand and dirt and ground may indeed offer in terms of pH levels and the acidity of the world beneath his feet, in an attempt to try to get some life into an otherwise graveyard silent city. He only knows his siblings are still alive because of the feeling of certainty that he has that they will see each other again.

you'd look better in black and white; all that blood would look like tar. Off into the west of the scattered sands, is a big city that thrives on how no one causes a fuss, far from the reach of Vash the Stampede... but apparently there's no need for Vash the Stampede when there's supposedly a demon on the loose. They don't bother asking a name when every time the cityfolk see the demon, lightning crashes nearby and a storm begins as the chase does at the same time. The chase doesn't last nearly as long as the storm, but they have yet to figure out that the storm is a result of their fear and hate towards the frightened person they call a demon. No one gets a good look at "it" - but when they do, there have been accounts of eyes like light through a prism, sunlight and night-touched features reflecting in the crash of lightning... and one person has sworn they've seen pointed ears. Why wouldn't "it" be a demon? That's not human.

sour, sugar and spice, everything bitter and choking on ice. Luka ended up mostly unharmed, but "showed up" (aka crash landed) outside of one of the smaller cities, where people thought he was some sort of bounty hunter thrown from the saddle. He eventually convinced the township/city he ended up in to trust him, despite his cold demeanor, and at some point, he managed to figure out how to put taste into his more bland food based spells. So his stand in clinic is always well stocked. Some days, he hears of some things happening off in the west, how there is a demon of claws and lightning wreaking havoc through the sands, turning them into molten glass pits of agony, and has to sigh. People here really don't like seeing anyone different from them, do they? He worries about Aryin.

everything you can do, i do twelve steps ahead of you. This woman would be the most well adjusted to the desert sands, as her main station back home was the arid and humid lands and worlds, such as Agrabah and the coastal regions of upper Atlantica. Being who she was as a spy and a chaotic gremlin of a rogue, she would be the sort to make sure she and her elder son of seven years old are safe first before getting a hold of her eldest brother, Zack, to help build something to contact her husband - there is no doubt in her mind that he has already gone berserk, believing that the Lancealot armies have kidnapped her again - and worse yet, kidnapped her AND Justin. When she gets the time between speaking with Zack in fits of magic that never truly cooperates, she studies the people around her, and refuses to teach her son how to wield anything more than a dagger or one of her old swords, a real one, not a Keyblade. She refuses to give a GUN to a SEVEN YEAR OLD. (even if she was taught precision aiming at eight.)

[jude-thedude98]

Mr. O'Rion Rippington's Riptide

Don't wanna uncap the pen

The pen be mightier than the words

Sword so fiercely, magically clean it hurts to say the whole name

Rip-tides of water flowin' over my head right

Through the cable car the fray this sword wields still kills

Monsters who tried to befriend and eat me

Swoosh

Another one dead, ph well

This celestial bronze is a percy jackson mom's blue coated anything

A piece of home I keep close, so don't touch my pocketeses or you'll be experiencing

The wrath of God's

Greek chariots barreling down in mustang Sally's

Apollo's 13 year old self still looks older than Artemis and her hunters by their self

Try to set war on me?

I'm tighter than titans teens pulled from Ares magazines

New York times showing things that I thought you heard from the grapevine

Dionysus

Wine God sippin on diet coke

Or calypso

Teachin communication and healing like Hermes ju jitsu

No need to chase the wisdom

Annabeth and Athena already got the blueprints schematics planned out and defeated

Touching blue notes

Come see me in the underground

Labyrinth

Math width

Protractor protractin'

Absent

Down in the forges Hey Festus!

Happy the dragon by Leo Valdez of Hephaestus

Chest to chest with Aphrodite

Love my valentining

We all, like Piper McLean and Selena Beauregard pineing

Love striking

They say it don't twice

Zeus lightning

Can't fight me

I'm part of the big three

Holy trinity

This my house of hades

And my Mount Olympus

Gay Pride like Nico brown Hazel but I'm still deep though

A lil king of the underworld a lil king of the mainstream

Poseidon with the triton

Seafoam rise up

Pegasi fly up!

Call Blackjack when you need a favor

And he'll pull up

Wait while I tend the fire

Hestia

Didn't your mother ever tell you not to get next to ya

Flame

Retardants

Come bombarding my city

I'll hit you with the grace of Jason and Thalia

And in case you thank that's not enough

Following ya

Will be two satyrs: one Glees9n, one Grover

A cyclops named Tyson who can AND will roll you over

A wooden plank to short to fuse from my man Zhang Frank

And frankly that should be enough

But my Mrs. O'Leary is teary eyed if I don't take her on the ride

So come try to take a bite out of this crime

Hellhound! Sick em!

Raisin' wild flowers like Demeter

This my pen's call of the wild, Pan

So don't sleep on me hypnosis

Or I promise I'll unleash The Mother Wrath of Hera

I'm half Mr. Alias Nightmare / M.A.N.

And half demisexual demigod

Hm, how kind of odd?

Call me Jude PoetAll

Lupe

Phillip, Fenix, Felix, or Felipe

A novelist I am, ots obvious

So I guess I'm Jarel with the dot

All alter egos on spot

That's why all I ever need is my Kid Ink

And I promise this imagination station will NEVER stop

So here I go

Until the next time I need to swing MY Riptide

Ima sign it with

The Last Olympian

@story.

[tameblog]

Curio rowleyanus The string of pearls plant, Curio rowleyanus, is a funky succulent vine with rounded leaves that look like strands of pearls or peas. Formerly classified as Senecio rowleyanus, it is also commonly called string of beads. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Native to South Africa, it’s suited to outdoor cultivation in USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 12 and grows as a houseplant in all regions. And as with many ornamental species, it’s toxic to people and pets, so don’t eat it and wear gloves to protect sensitive skin from contact dermatitis. If you are as intrigued by C. rowleyanus as I am, read on for all you need to know to grow it indoors. Here’s what we’ll cover: Let’s start with a little background. German botanist Herman Jacobsen identified C. rowleyanus in 1968, naming it for famed British plant hunter, botanist, collection curator, and writer Gordon Douglas Rowley. Without their efforts, string of pearls might not be available to home gardeners worldwide today. Quick Look Common name(s): String of pearls Plant type: Succulent vine Hardiness (USDA Zone): 9-12 (outdoors) Native to: South Africa Bloom time / season: Summer Exposure: Full sun to part shade Soil type: Loose, well-draining succulent and cactus soil Soil pH: Around 6.0, slightly acidic Mature size: 1-2 ft wide x 1-2 ft high Best uses: Houseplant, outdoor ground cover, seasonal planter Toxicity: Medium-high Taxonomy Order: Asterales Family: Asteraceae Genus: Curio, formerly Senecio Species: Rowleyanus The pearl-like leaves of our subject species are plump water storage vessels. Unlike some succulents, the stems are not engorged with moisture but are slender and somewhat fragile. Each leaf has a noticeable dark green line that looks like a slit. This is a fenestration or epidermal window equipped to receive optimal sunlight for photosynthesis. C. rowleyanus copes with its arid environment by creeping horizontally, pushing roots into the soil, and forming a thick green ground cover. As it grows, it seeks shelter from the scalding sun and is often found in rock crevices and beneath trees. Indoors, plants thrive in bright indirect sunlight. They are eye-catching in hanging containers that showcase their trailing vines. Mature dimensions average one to two feet long and wide. However, three-foot lengths are possible under optimal conditions. Small white blossoms with a cinnamon-like fragrance may bloom in the summertime, although this is more likely with outdoor flora. Photo by Forest and Kim Starr, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA. When the flowers set seed, each has a fluffy “pappus,” like an aster or dandelion, that nature’s breezes would readily disperse in outdoor settings. Houseplant flowers are generally unpollinated and the seeds are unlikely to germinate. Does string of pearls sound like a worthy contender for a new or existing succulent collection? Read on for guidance on propagating a plant of your own. How to Grow When choosing a container, check for ample drainage holes. If there is a matching drip tray, great. If not, find an old dish or lid that can catch excess water. Remember to empty it. As succulents have shallow roots, depth is seldom a problem. However, it’s wise to select a pot with a fairly snug fit. A diameter that is one inch wider than the foliage width allows room for the watering can spout. A pot that’s too big may stay wet for such a long time it causes roots to rot. Soil Use a potting medium that is light, airy, and well-draining. One formulated for cacti and succulents meets these specifications and typically has the appropriate slightly acidic pH of about 6.0 that succulents favor. An excellent choice is Tank’s Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix. Tank’s Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix This product is made with coconut husks, compost, and pumice for water retention, drainage, and optimal growth. Tank’s Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix is available from Arbico Organics in packages containing one and a half cubic feet of medium. Remember to set rooted leaf cuttings, stem cuttings, and nursery plants at the same depth they were in their original containers, no deeper than half an inch from the pot rim. Fertilizer Fertilize them with a liquid cactus and succulent food diluted to half strength. Feed monthly throughout the growing season. A product you may like is Dr. Earth® Succulence® Cactus & Succulent Plant Food, 1-1-2 NPK. Dr. Earth Succulence Cactus & Succulent Plant Food This environmentally sound formulation is made from organic supermarket food waste and supports succulent health. Mix one gallon at half strength, or use four pumps of food per gallon of water, to have on hand for biweekly applications. Apply with a watering can. Dr. Earth® Succulence® Cactus & Succulent Plant Food is available from Arbico Organics in 16-ounce pump bottles. Water When you water, take the pot to the sink if possible. Continue to pour water until it runs through the drainage holes. Allow the pot to drain for a few minutes and water again to moisten all air pockets. Empty the drip tray as needed to avoid oversaturating the roots and raising the ambient humidity. Water about once every two weeks or when the soil completely dries out. If you like, purchase a moisture meter to guide you. As discussed, it’s better to err on the side of too dry than too wet. Do not use a mister. Wet leaves are prone to rotting, just like roots. Also, a mister increases the ambient humidity, which is fine for tropical flora but not for a desert succulent. During dormancy, from fall to spring, you’ll find that you only need to water about once a month to keep the soil from completely drying out. Discontinue fertilizer applications during this time, but continue to provide adequate sunlight. Humidity Succulents prefer household humidity between 30 and 50 percent. This is a healthy home range to have because, in addition to supporting desert plant health, it inhibits mold and dust mites, two common allergens. Too much moisture can lead to rotting, whether from poor drainage, overwatering, or excessive humidity. Light Provide your succulent with bright indirect sunlight. An eastern exposure or a distance of five to 10 feet from a sunny south-facing window is ideal. You may find that you need to move the pot during the day to avoid bright direct light that may cause scorching. Caring for string of pearls is easy with a good routine. Mark your calendar or garden planner with the approximate times to water and feed, so you don’t forget. Where to Buy String of pearls is available from various sources, including discount stores and online vendors. String of Pearls The CTS Air Plants Store offers three starter sizes: One 4-inch pot Two 2-inch pots One 6-inch hanging pot Find string of pearls from the CTS Air Plants Store via Amazon now. The variegated string of pearls, C. rowleyanus ‘Variegata,’ is another option. Variegated String of Pearls It has green and white leaves with mottled and striped markings for an even more striking addition to succulent groupings. Variegated foliage may grow slower and be more sensitive to light than green. Find variegated string of pearls now on Amazon, in four-inch pots. Maintenance Even with the best of care, a succulent occasionally requires additional tending. For example, if you are using your plant to make new ones, you may find that the ends of the tendrils branch off to form two or more offshoots instead of a single strand of leaves. If you don’t like this appearance, snip off those you don’t want just below a leaf. You should remove damaged, dead, or leafless stem portions to restore vigor and maintain an attractive appearance. Snip just below a leaf to promote rapid regrowth. If you see dry, brown leaves, you may be underwatering, and/or the location may be too sunny. Evaluate your watering habits and the sun exposure and make adjustments as needed. Oversaturation is likely if the leaves appear shrunken, squishy, and yellow. You may be able to dry a pot out by withholding water, but the damage may be irreversible. If you can, salvage a few good stems or leaves to propagate. And in the event of a pest infestation, which we’ll discuss shortly, prune off badly affected foliage to restore health and visual appeal. To encourage blooming, some folks put their succulents in a cool, dry 55 to 60°F location during winter dormancy to mimic nature and stimulate the process. Another type of care you can provide involves time spent outdoors in the summer. Gradually acclimate plants to the outdoors a few hours each day and avoid scorching direct sunlight. If humidity or rainfall are excessive, return them inside. Fresh air is rejuvenating for indoor flora and may invigorate underperformers. Note that outdoor pollination may produce viable seeds. You can try to collect the little seed wisps before they drift off to sow on the surface of a lightly moistened cactus and succulent potting medium. Keep the medium from drying out completely and place the germinating seeds in bright indirect sunlight. Post-bloom, cut the flower stems as close to the vine as possible without severing it to restore vigor to the foliage and maintain a neat appearance. Lastly, as the foliage grows wider, repot as needed to maintain a snug fit with an inch of room to water. Repot during dormancy to avoid disrupting growth. Propagation There are several ways to start a plant. Seeds are not readily available, as it’s much easier and faster to propagate succulents by taking leaf or stem cuttings and rooting them. We’ll talk a little about the possibility of starting from seed in the pruning and maintenance section below. From a Leaf Choose a plump, unblemished leaf. Use clean shears to snip the leaf from the vine. Remove the short stem or petiole that attached the leaf to the vine. Place the snipped leaf on a paper towel in bright indirect sunlight for about three days to dry and form a callus over the “wound.”  Once the leaf has formed a callus, fill a six-inch seed starter pot three-quarters full of cactus and succulent potting medium. Lightly moisten the medium. Lay the leaf on top, and press it gently to anchor it in the moist medium. Mist the soil as needed to keep it lightly moist but not soggy. Keep the pot in a location with bright indirect sunlight, or use a grow light. Over the next month or so, the leaf will wither as it grows roots and forms new foliage. New growth is evidence of success. From a Stem Cutting An even easier way to start a new plant is with a stem cutting. Here’s how: Cut a four-inch stem from the growing end of a long tendril. Snip off the bottom leaf or leaves to create a bare stem one inch long. Prepare the pot of soil as described above. Insert the bare stem into the prepared medium. Keep the medium lightly moist. Place the pot in bright indirect sunlight or beneath a grow light. New growth should appear in a few weeks. Another way to root a stem cutting is to lay it flat on the surface of the potting medium. Here’s how: Take a four-inch cutting. Lay the cut stem on the moist medium. Press the pearls gently to anchor the stem to the medium. Maintain moisture as described above and provide a bright indirect light source. In addition to rooting in potting medium, you can root a stem cutting in water, as follows: Take the cutting. Bare the bottom inch of the stem, removing any attached foliage. Place the cutting in a small jar or glass filled with one inch of water. For ideal sun exposure, make sure the top of the stem is a little taller than the container. It’s fun if the jar is clear and the roots are visible, so you can observe what’s happening. If you don’t have a friend with vines you can snip, you’ll need to buy a plant. From a Nursery Pot/Transplanting When you purchase C. rowleyanus, it may be a small “start” that’s a few inches tall or a mature specimen. Either way, the time may come when you want to transplant it or a rooted cutting to a new container. The secret to success is maintaining the same depth as in the original container. Succulents are susceptible to rotting, and those planted too deeply are the most vulnerable. When foliage is even with or one-half inch below the pot rim, it’s more likely to thrive and less likely to rot. Once propagated, it’s time to start a good care routine. Pests and Disease While our subject species is not prone to pests or diseases, dry indoor environments may attract aphids and mealybugs. Try to dislodge pests with the kitchen sink sprayer. Follow up with an application of organic insecticidal neem oil. As mentioned, rotting roots are common with oversaturated succulents. It may be best to try to salvage leaf and/or stem cuttings to start over in advanced cases. Best Uses A hanging container that allows vines to cascade around is a striking vessel for showcasing the unusual beaded strands of C. rowleyanus. Use a non-hanging pot atop a pedestal, shelf, or mantel for a fresh, contemporary look. Prune the vines to desired lengths, let them pool around the container, or sweep them to one side for dynamic variations. And finally, mimic nature and let the vines creep over the potting medium in a shallow container, forming a dense mat like a “pavé” floral arrangement – dense and low-profile. Prune wayward tendrils as desired. A note of caution: keep tendrils out of reach of children or pets who may tug on them and topple a pot onto themselves. Dynamic and Decorative I like succulent gardening and fell immediately in love with string of pearls. It pairs well with rosettes of echeveria, ruffles of crassula, and spikes of haworthia, adding a new shape and movement with its spherical foliage and dangling stems. And when a species is also easy to care for and water-wise, it doesn’t take long for me to get on board, and I think you might be ready to join me. Are you ready to add a dynamic string of pearls to your home decor? Will you suspend or display it in a stationary pot atop a shelf or mantel? We’d love to hear about it in the comments section below. If you enjoyed reading this article and want to read about more succulents to grow indoors, we recommend the following: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published June 7th, 2022. Last updated January 6th, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics, the CTS Air Plants Store, and USKC. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[ramestoryworld]

Curio rowleyanus The string of pearls plant, Curio rowleyanus, is a funky succulent vine with rounded leaves that look like strands of pearls or peas. Formerly classified as Senecio rowleyanus, it is also commonly called string of beads. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Native to South Africa, it’s suited to outdoor cultivation in USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 12 and grows as a houseplant in all regions. And as with many ornamental species, it’s toxic to people and pets, so don’t eat it and wear gloves to protect sensitive skin from contact dermatitis. If you are as intrigued by C. rowleyanus as I am, read on for all you need to know to grow it indoors. Here’s what we’ll cover: Let’s start with a little background. German botanist Herman Jacobsen identified C. rowleyanus in 1968, naming it for famed British plant hunter, botanist, collection curator, and writer Gordon Douglas Rowley. Without their efforts, string of pearls might not be available to home gardeners worldwide today. Quick Look Common name(s): String of pearls Plant type: Succulent vine Hardiness (USDA Zone): 9-12 (outdoors) Native to: South Africa Bloom time / season: Summer Exposure: Full sun to part shade Soil type: Loose, well-draining succulent and cactus soil Soil pH: Around 6.0, slightly acidic Mature size: 1-2 ft wide x 1-2 ft high Best uses: Houseplant, outdoor ground cover, seasonal planter Toxicity: Medium-high Taxonomy Order: Asterales Family: Asteraceae Genus: Curio, formerly Senecio Species: Rowleyanus The pearl-like leaves of our subject species are plump water storage vessels. Unlike some succulents, the stems are not engorged with moisture but are slender and somewhat fragile. Each leaf has a noticeable dark green line that looks like a slit. This is a fenestration or epidermal window equipped to receive optimal sunlight for photosynthesis. C. rowleyanus copes with its arid environment by creeping horizontally, pushing roots into the soil, and forming a thick green ground cover. As it grows, it seeks shelter from the scalding sun and is often found in rock crevices and beneath trees. Indoors, plants thrive in bright indirect sunlight. They are eye-catching in hanging containers that showcase their trailing vines. Mature dimensions average one to two feet long and wide. However, three-foot lengths are possible under optimal conditions. Small white blossoms with a cinnamon-like fragrance may bloom in the summertime, although this is more likely with outdoor flora. Photo by Forest and Kim Starr, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA. When the flowers set seed, each has a fluffy “pappus,” like an aster or dandelion, that nature’s breezes would readily disperse in outdoor settings. Houseplant flowers are generally unpollinated and the seeds are unlikely to germinate. Does string of pearls sound like a worthy contender for a new or existing succulent collection? Read on for guidance on propagating a plant of your own. How to Grow When choosing a container, check for ample drainage holes. If there is a matching drip tray, great. If not, find an old dish or lid that can catch excess water. Remember to empty it. As succulents have shallow roots, depth is seldom a problem. However, it’s wise to select a pot with a fairly snug fit. A diameter that is one inch wider than the foliage width allows room for the watering can spout. A pot that’s too big may stay wet for such a long time it causes roots to rot. Soil Use a potting medium that is light, airy, and well-draining. One formulated for cacti and succulents meets these specifications and typically has the appropriate slightly acidic pH of about 6.0 that succulents favor. An excellent choice is Tank’s Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix. Tank’s Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix This product is made with coconut husks, compost, and pumice for water retention, drainage, and optimal growth. Tank’s Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix is available from Arbico Organics in packages containing one and a half cubic feet of medium. Remember to set rooted leaf cuttings, stem cuttings, and nursery plants at the same depth they were in their original containers, no deeper than half an inch from the pot rim. Fertilizer Fertilize them with a liquid cactus and succulent food diluted to half strength. Feed monthly throughout the growing season. A product you may like is Dr. Earth® Succulence® Cactus & Succulent Plant Food, 1-1-2 NPK. Dr. Earth Succulence Cactus & Succulent Plant Food This environmentally sound formulation is made from organic supermarket food waste and supports succulent health. Mix one gallon at half strength, or use four pumps of food per gallon of water, to have on hand for biweekly applications. Apply with a watering can. Dr. Earth® Succulence® Cactus & Succulent Plant Food is available from Arbico Organics in 16-ounce pump bottles. Water When you water, take the pot to the sink if possible. Continue to pour water until it runs through the drainage holes. Allow the pot to drain for a few minutes and water again to moisten all air pockets. Empty the drip tray as needed to avoid oversaturating the roots and raising the ambient humidity. Water about once every two weeks or when the soil completely dries out. If you like, purchase a moisture meter to guide you. As discussed, it’s better to err on the side of too dry than too wet. Do not use a mister. Wet leaves are prone to rotting, just like roots. Also, a mister increases the ambient humidity, which is fine for tropical flora but not for a desert succulent. During dormancy, from fall to spring, you’ll find that you only need to water about once a month to keep the soil from completely drying out. Discontinue fertilizer applications during this time, but continue to provide adequate sunlight. Humidity Succulents prefer household humidity between 30 and 50 percent. This is a healthy home range to have because, in addition to supporting desert plant health, it inhibits mold and dust mites, two common allergens. Too much moisture can lead to rotting, whether from poor drainage, overwatering, or excessive humidity. Light Provide your succulent with bright indirect sunlight. An eastern exposure or a distance of five to 10 feet from a sunny south-facing window is ideal. You may find that you need to move the pot during the day to avoid bright direct light that may cause scorching. Caring for string of pearls is easy with a good routine. Mark your calendar or garden planner with the approximate times to water and feed, so you don’t forget. Where to Buy String of pearls is available from various sources, including discount stores and online vendors. String of Pearls The CTS Air Plants Store offers three starter sizes: One 4-inch pot Two 2-inch pots One 6-inch hanging pot Find string of pearls from the CTS Air Plants Store via Amazon now. The variegated string of pearls, C. rowleyanus ‘Variegata,’ is another option. Variegated String of Pearls It has green and white leaves with mottled and striped markings for an even more striking addition to succulent groupings. Variegated foliage may grow slower and be more sensitive to light than green. Find variegated string of pearls now on Amazon, in four-inch pots. Maintenance Even with the best of care, a succulent occasionally requires additional tending. For example, if you are using your plant to make new ones, you may find that the ends of the tendrils branch off to form two or more offshoots instead of a single strand of leaves. If you don’t like this appearance, snip off those you don’t want just below a leaf. You should remove damaged, dead, or leafless stem portions to restore vigor and maintain an attractive appearance. Snip just below a leaf to promote rapid regrowth. If you see dry, brown leaves, you may be underwatering, and/or the location may be too sunny. Evaluate your watering habits and the sun exposure and make adjustments as needed. Oversaturation is likely if the leaves appear shrunken, squishy, and yellow. You may be able to dry a pot out by withholding water, but the damage may be irreversible. If you can, salvage a few good stems or leaves to propagate. And in the event of a pest infestation, which we’ll discuss shortly, prune off badly affected foliage to restore health and visual appeal. To encourage blooming, some folks put their succulents in a cool, dry 55 to 60°F location during winter dormancy to mimic nature and stimulate the process. Another type of care you can provide involves time spent outdoors in the summer. Gradually acclimate plants to the outdoors a few hours each day and avoid scorching direct sunlight. If humidity or rainfall are excessive, return them inside. Fresh air is rejuvenating for indoor flora and may invigorate underperformers. Note that outdoor pollination may produce viable seeds. You can try to collect the little seed wisps before they drift off to sow on the surface of a lightly moistened cactus and succulent potting medium. Keep the medium from drying out completely and place the germinating seeds in bright indirect sunlight. Post-bloom, cut the flower stems as close to the vine as possible without severing it to restore vigor to the foliage and maintain a neat appearance. Lastly, as the foliage grows wider, repot as needed to maintain a snug fit with an inch of room to water. Repot during dormancy to avoid disrupting growth. Propagation There are several ways to start a plant. Seeds are not readily available, as it’s much easier and faster to propagate succulents by taking leaf or stem cuttings and rooting them. We’ll talk a little about the possibility of starting from seed in the pruning and maintenance section below. From a Leaf Choose a plump, unblemished leaf. Use clean shears to snip the leaf from the vine. Remove the short stem or petiole that attached the leaf to the vine. Place the snipped leaf on a paper towel in bright indirect sunlight for about three days to dry and form a callus over the “wound.”  Once the leaf has formed a callus, fill a six-inch seed starter pot three-quarters full of cactus and succulent potting medium. Lightly moisten the medium. Lay the leaf on top, and press it gently to anchor it in the moist medium. Mist the soil as needed to keep it lightly moist but not soggy. Keep the pot in a location with bright indirect sunlight, or use a grow light. Over the next month or so, the leaf will wither as it grows roots and forms new foliage. New growth is evidence of success. From a Stem Cutting An even easier way to start a new plant is with a stem cutting. Here’s how: Cut a four-inch stem from the growing end of a long tendril. Snip off the bottom leaf or leaves to create a bare stem one inch long. Prepare the pot of soil as described above. Insert the bare stem into the prepared medium. Keep the medium lightly moist. Place the pot in bright indirect sunlight or beneath a grow light. New growth should appear in a few weeks. Another way to root a stem cutting is to lay it flat on the surface of the potting medium. Here’s how: Take a four-inch cutting. Lay the cut stem on the moist medium. Press the pearls gently to anchor the stem to the medium. Maintain moisture as described above and provide a bright indirect light source. In addition to rooting in potting medium, you can root a stem cutting in water, as follows: Take the cutting. Bare the bottom inch of the stem, removing any attached foliage. Place the cutting in a small jar or glass filled with one inch of water. For ideal sun exposure, make sure the top of the stem is a little taller than the container. It’s fun if the jar is clear and the roots are visible, so you can observe what’s happening. If you don’t have a friend with vines you can snip, you’ll need to buy a plant. From a Nursery Pot/Transplanting When you purchase C. rowleyanus, it may be a small “start” that’s a few inches tall or a mature specimen. Either way, the time may come when you want to transplant it or a rooted cutting to a new container. The secret to success is maintaining the same depth as in the original container. Succulents are susceptible to rotting, and those planted too deeply are the most vulnerable. When foliage is even with or one-half inch below the pot rim, it’s more likely to thrive and less likely to rot. Once propagated, it’s time to start a good care routine. Pests and Disease While our subject species is not prone to pests or diseases, dry indoor environments may attract aphids and mealybugs. Try to dislodge pests with the kitchen sink sprayer. Follow up with an application of organic insecticidal neem oil. As mentioned, rotting roots are common with oversaturated succulents. It may be best to try to salvage leaf and/or stem cuttings to start over in advanced cases. Best Uses A hanging container that allows vines to cascade around is a striking vessel for showcasing the unusual beaded strands of C. rowleyanus. Use a non-hanging pot atop a pedestal, shelf, or mantel for a fresh, contemporary look. Prune the vines to desired lengths, let them pool around the container, or sweep them to one side for dynamic variations. And finally, mimic nature and let the vines creep over the potting medium in a shallow container, forming a dense mat like a “pavé” floral arrangement – dense and low-profile. Prune wayward tendrils as desired. A note of caution: keep tendrils out of reach of children or pets who may tug on them and topple a pot onto themselves. Dynamic and Decorative I like succulent gardening and fell immediately in love with string of pearls. It pairs well with rosettes of echeveria, ruffles of crassula, and spikes of haworthia, adding a new shape and movement with its spherical foliage and dangling stems. And when a species is also easy to care for and water-wise, it doesn’t take long for me to get on board, and I think you might be ready to join me. Are you ready to add a dynamic string of pearls to your home decor? Will you suspend or display it in a stationary pot atop a shelf or mantel? We’d love to hear about it in the comments section below. If you enjoyed reading this article and want to read about more succulents to grow indoors, we recommend the following: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published June 7th, 2022. Last updated January 6th, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics, the CTS Air Plants Store, and USKC. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[alexha2210]

Curio rowleyanus The string of pearls plant, Curio rowleyanus, is a funky succulent vine with rounded leaves that look like strands of pearls or peas. Formerly classified as Senecio rowleyanus, it is also commonly called string of beads. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Native to South Africa, it’s suited to outdoor cultivation in USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 12 and grows as a houseplant in all regions. And as with many ornamental species, it’s toxic to people and pets, so don’t eat it and wear gloves to protect sensitive skin from contact dermatitis. If you are as intrigued by C. rowleyanus as I am, read on for all you need to know to grow it indoors. Here’s what we’ll cover: Let’s start with a little background. German botanist Herman Jacobsen identified C. rowleyanus in 1968, naming it for famed British plant hunter, botanist, collection curator, and writer Gordon Douglas Rowley. Without their efforts, string of pearls might not be available to home gardeners worldwide today. Quick Look Common name(s): String of pearls Plant type: Succulent vine Hardiness (USDA Zone): 9-12 (outdoors) Native to: South Africa Bloom time / season: Summer Exposure: Full sun to part shade Soil type: Loose, well-draining succulent and cactus soil Soil pH: Around 6.0, slightly acidic Mature size: 1-2 ft wide x 1-2 ft high Best uses: Houseplant, outdoor ground cover, seasonal planter Toxicity: Medium-high Taxonomy Order: Asterales Family: Asteraceae Genus: Curio, formerly Senecio Species: Rowleyanus The pearl-like leaves of our subject species are plump water storage vessels. Unlike some succulents, the stems are not engorged with moisture but are slender and somewhat fragile. Each leaf has a noticeable dark green line that looks like a slit. This is a fenestration or epidermal window equipped to receive optimal sunlight for photosynthesis. C. rowleyanus copes with its arid environment by creeping horizontally, pushing roots into the soil, and forming a thick green ground cover. As it grows, it seeks shelter from the scalding sun and is often found in rock crevices and beneath trees. Indoors, plants thrive in bright indirect sunlight. They are eye-catching in hanging containers that showcase their trailing vines. Mature dimensions average one to two feet long and wide. However, three-foot lengths are possible under optimal conditions. Small white blossoms with a cinnamon-like fragrance may bloom in the summertime, although this is more likely with outdoor flora. Photo by Forest and Kim Starr, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA. When the flowers set seed, each has a fluffy “pappus,” like an aster or dandelion, that nature’s breezes would readily disperse in outdoor settings. Houseplant flowers are generally unpollinated and the seeds are unlikely to germinate. Does string of pearls sound like a worthy contender for a new or existing succulent collection? Read on for guidance on propagating a plant of your own. How to Grow When choosing a container, check for ample drainage holes. If there is a matching drip tray, great. If not, find an old dish or lid that can catch excess water. Remember to empty it. As succulents have shallow roots, depth is seldom a problem. However, it’s wise to select a pot with a fairly snug fit. A diameter that is one inch wider than the foliage width allows room for the watering can spout. A pot that’s too big may stay wet for such a long time it causes roots to rot. Soil Use a potting medium that is light, airy, and well-draining. One formulated for cacti and succulents meets these specifications and typically has the appropriate slightly acidic pH of about 6.0 that succulents favor. An excellent choice is Tank’s Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix. Tank’s Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix This product is made with coconut husks, compost, and pumice for water retention, drainage, and optimal growth. Tank’s Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix is available from Arbico Organics in packages containing one and a half cubic feet of medium. Remember to set rooted leaf cuttings, stem cuttings, and nursery plants at the same depth they were in their original containers, no deeper than half an inch from the pot rim. Fertilizer Fertilize them with a liquid cactus and succulent food diluted to half strength. Feed monthly throughout the growing season. A product you may like is Dr. Earth® Succulence® Cactus & Succulent Plant Food, 1-1-2 NPK. Dr. Earth Succulence Cactus & Succulent Plant Food This environmentally sound formulation is made from organic supermarket food waste and supports succulent health. Mix one gallon at half strength, or use four pumps of food per gallon of water, to have on hand for biweekly applications. Apply with a watering can. Dr. Earth® Succulence® Cactus & Succulent Plant Food is available from Arbico Organics in 16-ounce pump bottles. Water When you water, take the pot to the sink if possible. Continue to pour water until it runs through the drainage holes. Allow the pot to drain for a few minutes and water again to moisten all air pockets. Empty the drip tray as needed to avoid oversaturating the roots and raising the ambient humidity. Water about once every two weeks or when the soil completely dries out. If you like, purchase a moisture meter to guide you. As discussed, it’s better to err on the side of too dry than too wet. Do not use a mister. Wet leaves are prone to rotting, just like roots. Also, a mister increases the ambient humidity, which is fine for tropical flora but not for a desert succulent. During dormancy, from fall to spring, you’ll find that you only need to water about once a month to keep the soil from completely drying out. Discontinue fertilizer applications during this time, but continue to provide adequate sunlight. Humidity Succulents prefer household humidity between 30 and 50 percent. This is a healthy home range to have because, in addition to supporting desert plant health, it inhibits mold and dust mites, two common allergens. Too much moisture can lead to rotting, whether from poor drainage, overwatering, or excessive humidity. Light Provide your succulent with bright indirect sunlight. An eastern exposure or a distance of five to 10 feet from a sunny south-facing window is ideal. You may find that you need to move the pot during the day to avoid bright direct light that may cause scorching. Caring for string of pearls is easy with a good routine. Mark your calendar or garden planner with the approximate times to water and feed, so you don’t forget. Where to Buy String of pearls is available from various sources, including discount stores and online vendors. String of Pearls The CTS Air Plants Store offers three starter sizes: One 4-inch pot Two 2-inch pots One 6-inch hanging pot Find string of pearls from the CTS Air Plants Store via Amazon now. The variegated string of pearls, C. rowleyanus ‘Variegata,’ is another option. Variegated String of Pearls It has green and white leaves with mottled and striped markings for an even more striking addition to succulent groupings. Variegated foliage may grow slower and be more sensitive to light than green. Find variegated string of pearls now on Amazon, in four-inch pots. Maintenance Even with the best of care, a succulent occasionally requires additional tending. For example, if you are using your plant to make new ones, you may find that the ends of the tendrils branch off to form two or more offshoots instead of a single strand of leaves. If you don’t like this appearance, snip off those you don’t want just below a leaf. You should remove damaged, dead, or leafless stem portions to restore vigor and maintain an attractive appearance. Snip just below a leaf to promote rapid regrowth. If you see dry, brown leaves, you may be underwatering, and/or the location may be too sunny. Evaluate your watering habits and the sun exposure and make adjustments as needed. Oversaturation is likely if the leaves appear shrunken, squishy, and yellow. You may be able to dry a pot out by withholding water, but the damage may be irreversible. If you can, salvage a few good stems or leaves to propagate. And in the event of a pest infestation, which we’ll discuss shortly, prune off badly affected foliage to restore health and visual appeal. To encourage blooming, some folks put their succulents in a cool, dry 55 to 60°F location during winter dormancy to mimic nature and stimulate the process. Another type of care you can provide involves time spent outdoors in the summer. Gradually acclimate plants to the outdoors a few hours each day and avoid scorching direct sunlight. If humidity or rainfall are excessive, return them inside. Fresh air is rejuvenating for indoor flora and may invigorate underperformers. Note that outdoor pollination may produce viable seeds. You can try to collect the little seed wisps before they drift off to sow on the surface of a lightly moistened cactus and succulent potting medium. Keep the medium from drying out completely and place the germinating seeds in bright indirect sunlight. Post-bloom, cut the flower stems as close to the vine as possible without severing it to restore vigor to the foliage and maintain a neat appearance. Lastly, as the foliage grows wider, repot as needed to maintain a snug fit with an inch of room to water. Repot during dormancy to avoid disrupting growth. Propagation There are several ways to start a plant. Seeds are not readily available, as it’s much easier and faster to propagate succulents by taking leaf or stem cuttings and rooting them. We’ll talk a little about the possibility of starting from seed in the pruning and maintenance section below. From a Leaf Choose a plump, unblemished leaf. Use clean shears to snip the leaf from the vine. Remove the short stem or petiole that attached the leaf to the vine. Place the snipped leaf on a paper towel in bright indirect sunlight for about three days to dry and form a callus over the “wound.”  Once the leaf has formed a callus, fill a six-inch seed starter pot three-quarters full of cactus and succulent potting medium. Lightly moisten the medium. Lay the leaf on top, and press it gently to anchor it in the moist medium. Mist the soil as needed to keep it lightly moist but not soggy. Keep the pot in a location with bright indirect sunlight, or use a grow light. Over the next month or so, the leaf will wither as it grows roots and forms new foliage. New growth is evidence of success. From a Stem Cutting An even easier way to start a new plant is with a stem cutting. Here’s how: Cut a four-inch stem from the growing end of a long tendril. Snip off the bottom leaf or leaves to create a bare stem one inch long. Prepare the pot of soil as described above. Insert the bare stem into the prepared medium. Keep the medium lightly moist. Place the pot in bright indirect sunlight or beneath a grow light. New growth should appear in a few weeks. Another way to root a stem cutting is to lay it flat on the surface of the potting medium. Here’s how: Take a four-inch cutting. Lay the cut stem on the moist medium. Press the pearls gently to anchor the stem to the medium. Maintain moisture as described above and provide a bright indirect light source. In addition to rooting in potting medium, you can root a stem cutting in water, as follows: Take the cutting. Bare the bottom inch of the stem, removing any attached foliage. Place the cutting in a small jar or glass filled with one inch of water. For ideal sun exposure, make sure the top of the stem is a little taller than the container. It’s fun if the jar is clear and the roots are visible, so you can observe what’s happening. If you don’t have a friend with vines you can snip, you’ll need to buy a plant. From a Nursery Pot/Transplanting When you purchase C. rowleyanus, it may be a small “start” that’s a few inches tall or a mature specimen. Either way, the time may come when you want to transplant it or a rooted cutting to a new container. The secret to success is maintaining the same depth as in the original container. Succulents are susceptible to rotting, and those planted too deeply are the most vulnerable. When foliage is even with or one-half inch below the pot rim, it’s more likely to thrive and less likely to rot. Once propagated, it’s time to start a good care routine. Pests and Disease While our subject species is not prone to pests or diseases, dry indoor environments may attract aphids and mealybugs. Try to dislodge pests with the kitchen sink sprayer. Follow up with an application of organic insecticidal neem oil. As mentioned, rotting roots are common with oversaturated succulents. It may be best to try to salvage leaf and/or stem cuttings to start over in advanced cases. Best Uses A hanging container that allows vines to cascade around is a striking vessel for showcasing the unusual beaded strands of C. rowleyanus. Use a non-hanging pot atop a pedestal, shelf, or mantel for a fresh, contemporary look. Prune the vines to desired lengths, let them pool around the container, or sweep them to one side for dynamic variations. And finally, mimic nature and let the vines creep over the potting medium in a shallow container, forming a dense mat like a “pavé” floral arrangement – dense and low-profile. Prune wayward tendrils as desired. A note of caution: keep tendrils out of reach of children or pets who may tug on them and topple a pot onto themselves. Dynamic and Decorative I like succulent gardening and fell immediately in love with string of pearls. It pairs well with rosettes of echeveria, ruffles of crassula, and spikes of haworthia, adding a new shape and movement with its spherical foliage and dangling stems. And when a species is also easy to care for and water-wise, it doesn’t take long for me to get on board, and I think you might be ready to join me. Are you ready to add a dynamic string of pearls to your home decor? Will you suspend or display it in a stationary pot atop a shelf or mantel? We’d love to hear about it in the comments section below. If you enjoyed reading this article and want to read about more succulents to grow indoors, we recommend the following: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published June 7th, 2022. Last updated January 6th, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics, the CTS Air Plants Store, and USKC. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[angusstory]

Curio rowleyanus The string of pearls plant, Curio rowleyanus, is a funky succulent vine with rounded leaves that look like strands of pearls or peas. Formerly classified as Senecio rowleyanus, it is also commonly called string of beads. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Native to South Africa, it’s suited to outdoor cultivation in USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 12 and grows as a houseplant in all regions. And as with many ornamental species, it’s toxic to people and pets, so don’t eat it and wear gloves to protect sensitive skin from contact dermatitis. If you are as intrigued by C. rowleyanus as I am, read on for all you need to know to grow it indoors. Here’s what we’ll cover: Let’s start with a little background. German botanist Herman Jacobsen identified C. rowleyanus in 1968, naming it for famed British plant hunter, botanist, collection curator, and writer Gordon Douglas Rowley. Without their efforts, string of pearls might not be available to home gardeners worldwide today. Quick Look Common name(s): String of pearls Plant type: Succulent vine Hardiness (USDA Zone): 9-12 (outdoors) Native to: South Africa Bloom time / season: Summer Exposure: Full sun to part shade Soil type: Loose, well-draining succulent and cactus soil Soil pH: Around 6.0, slightly acidic Mature size: 1-2 ft wide x 1-2 ft high Best uses: Houseplant, outdoor ground cover, seasonal planter Toxicity: Medium-high Taxonomy Order: Asterales Family: Asteraceae Genus: Curio, formerly Senecio Species: Rowleyanus The pearl-like leaves of our subject species are plump water storage vessels. Unlike some succulents, the stems are not engorged with moisture but are slender and somewhat fragile. Each leaf has a noticeable dark green line that looks like a slit. This is a fenestration or epidermal window equipped to receive optimal sunlight for photosynthesis. C. rowleyanus copes with its arid environment by creeping horizontally, pushing roots into the soil, and forming a thick green ground cover. As it grows, it seeks shelter from the scalding sun and is often found in rock crevices and beneath trees. Indoors, plants thrive in bright indirect sunlight. They are eye-catching in hanging containers that showcase their trailing vines. Mature dimensions average one to two feet long and wide. However, three-foot lengths are possible under optimal conditions. Small white blossoms with a cinnamon-like fragrance may bloom in the summertime, although this is more likely with outdoor flora. Photo by Forest and Kim Starr, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA. When the flowers set seed, each has a fluffy “pappus,” like an aster or dandelion, that nature’s breezes would readily disperse in outdoor settings. Houseplant flowers are generally unpollinated and the seeds are unlikely to germinate. Does string of pearls sound like a worthy contender for a new or existing succulent collection? Read on for guidance on propagating a plant of your own. How to Grow When choosing a container, check for ample drainage holes. If there is a matching drip tray, great. If not, find an old dish or lid that can catch excess water. Remember to empty it. As succulents have shallow roots, depth is seldom a problem. However, it’s wise to select a pot with a fairly snug fit. A diameter that is one inch wider than the foliage width allows room for the watering can spout. A pot that’s too big may stay wet for such a long time it causes roots to rot. Soil Use a potting medium that is light, airy, and well-draining. One formulated for cacti and succulents meets these specifications and typically has the appropriate slightly acidic pH of about 6.0 that succulents favor. An excellent choice is Tank’s Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix. Tank’s Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix This product is made with coconut husks, compost, and pumice for water retention, drainage, and optimal growth. Tank’s Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix is available from Arbico Organics in packages containing one and a half cubic feet of medium. Remember to set rooted leaf cuttings, stem cuttings, and nursery plants at the same depth they were in their original containers, no deeper than half an inch from the pot rim. Fertilizer Fertilize them with a liquid cactus and succulent food diluted to half strength. Feed monthly throughout the growing season. A product you may like is Dr. Earth® Succulence® Cactus & Succulent Plant Food, 1-1-2 NPK. Dr. Earth Succulence Cactus & Succulent Plant Food This environmentally sound formulation is made from organic supermarket food waste and supports succulent health. Mix one gallon at half strength, or use four pumps of food per gallon of water, to have on hand for biweekly applications. Apply with a watering can. Dr. Earth® Succulence® Cactus & Succulent Plant Food is available from Arbico Organics in 16-ounce pump bottles. Water When you water, take the pot to the sink if possible. Continue to pour water until it runs through the drainage holes. Allow the pot to drain for a few minutes and water again to moisten all air pockets. Empty the drip tray as needed to avoid oversaturating the roots and raising the ambient humidity. Water about once every two weeks or when the soil completely dries out. If you like, purchase a moisture meter to guide you. As discussed, it’s better to err on the side of too dry than too wet. Do not use a mister. Wet leaves are prone to rotting, just like roots. Also, a mister increases the ambient humidity, which is fine for tropical flora but not for a desert succulent. During dormancy, from fall to spring, you’ll find that you only need to water about once a month to keep the soil from completely drying out. Discontinue fertilizer applications during this time, but continue to provide adequate sunlight. Humidity Succulents prefer household humidity between 30 and 50 percent. This is a healthy home range to have because, in addition to supporting desert plant health, it inhibits mold and dust mites, two common allergens. Too much moisture can lead to rotting, whether from poor drainage, overwatering, or excessive humidity. Light Provide your succulent with bright indirect sunlight. An eastern exposure or a distance of five to 10 feet from a sunny south-facing window is ideal. You may find that you need to move the pot during the day to avoid bright direct light that may cause scorching. Caring for string of pearls is easy with a good routine. Mark your calendar or garden planner with the approximate times to water and feed, so you don’t forget. Where to Buy String of pearls is available from various sources, including discount stores and online vendors. String of Pearls The CTS Air Plants Store offers three starter sizes: One 4-inch pot Two 2-inch pots One 6-inch hanging pot Find string of pearls from the CTS Air Plants Store via Amazon now. The variegated string of pearls, C. rowleyanus ‘Variegata,’ is another option. Variegated String of Pearls It has green and white leaves with mottled and striped markings for an even more striking addition to succulent groupings. Variegated foliage may grow slower and be more sensitive to light than green. Find variegated string of pearls now on Amazon, in four-inch pots. Maintenance Even with the best of care, a succulent occasionally requires additional tending. For example, if you are using your plant to make new ones, you may find that the ends of the tendrils branch off to form two or more offshoots instead of a single strand of leaves. If you don’t like this appearance, snip off those you don’t want just below a leaf. You should remove damaged, dead, or leafless stem portions to restore vigor and maintain an attractive appearance. Snip just below a leaf to promote rapid regrowth. If you see dry, brown leaves, you may be underwatering, and/or the location may be too sunny. Evaluate your watering habits and the sun exposure and make adjustments as needed. Oversaturation is likely if the leaves appear shrunken, squishy, and yellow. You may be able to dry a pot out by withholding water, but the damage may be irreversible. If you can, salvage a few good stems or leaves to propagate. And in the event of a pest infestation, which we’ll discuss shortly, prune off badly affected foliage to restore health and visual appeal. To encourage blooming, some folks put their succulents in a cool, dry 55 to 60°F location during winter dormancy to mimic nature and stimulate the process. Another type of care you can provide involves time spent outdoors in the summer. Gradually acclimate plants to the outdoors a few hours each day and avoid scorching direct sunlight. If humidity or rainfall are excessive, return them inside. Fresh air is rejuvenating for indoor flora and may invigorate underperformers. Note that outdoor pollination may produce viable seeds. You can try to collect the little seed wisps before they drift off to sow on the surface of a lightly moistened cactus and succulent potting medium. Keep the medium from drying out completely and place the germinating seeds in bright indirect sunlight. Post-bloom, cut the flower stems as close to the vine as possible without severing it to restore vigor to the foliage and maintain a neat appearance. Lastly, as the foliage grows wider, repot as needed to maintain a snug fit with an inch of room to water. Repot during dormancy to avoid disrupting growth. Propagation There are several ways to start a plant. Seeds are not readily available, as it’s much easier and faster to propagate succulents by taking leaf or stem cuttings and rooting them. We’ll talk a little about the possibility of starting from seed in the pruning and maintenance section below. From a Leaf Choose a plump, unblemished leaf. Use clean shears to snip the leaf from the vine. Remove the short stem or petiole that attached the leaf to the vine. Place the snipped leaf on a paper towel in bright indirect sunlight for about three days to dry and form a callus over the “wound.”  Once the leaf has formed a callus, fill a six-inch seed starter pot three-quarters full of cactus and succulent potting medium. Lightly moisten the medium. Lay the leaf on top, and press it gently to anchor it in the moist medium. Mist the soil as needed to keep it lightly moist but not soggy. Keep the pot in a location with bright indirect sunlight, or use a grow light. Over the next month or so, the leaf will wither as it grows roots and forms new foliage. New growth is evidence of success. From a Stem Cutting An even easier way to start a new plant is with a stem cutting. Here’s how: Cut a four-inch stem from the growing end of a long tendril. Snip off the bottom leaf or leaves to create a bare stem one inch long. Prepare the pot of soil as described above. Insert the bare stem into the prepared medium. Keep the medium lightly moist. Place the pot in bright indirect sunlight or beneath a grow light. New growth should appear in a few weeks. Another way to root a stem cutting is to lay it flat on the surface of the potting medium. Here’s how: Take a four-inch cutting. Lay the cut stem on the moist medium. Press the pearls gently to anchor the stem to the medium. Maintain moisture as described above and provide a bright indirect light source. In addition to rooting in potting medium, you can root a stem cutting in water, as follows: Take the cutting. Bare the bottom inch of the stem, removing any attached foliage. Place the cutting in a small jar or glass filled with one inch of water. For ideal sun exposure, make sure the top of the stem is a little taller than the container. It’s fun if the jar is clear and the roots are visible, so you can observe what’s happening. If you don’t have a friend with vines you can snip, you’ll need to buy a plant. From a Nursery Pot/Transplanting When you purchase C. rowleyanus, it may be a small “start” that’s a few inches tall or a mature specimen. Either way, the time may come when you want to transplant it or a rooted cutting to a new container. The secret to success is maintaining the same depth as in the original container. Succulents are susceptible to rotting, and those planted too deeply are the most vulnerable. When foliage is even with or one-half inch below the pot rim, it’s more likely to thrive and less likely to rot. Once propagated, it’s time to start a good care routine. Pests and Disease While our subject species is not prone to pests or diseases, dry indoor environments may attract aphids and mealybugs. Try to dislodge pests with the kitchen sink sprayer. Follow up with an application of organic insecticidal neem oil. As mentioned, rotting roots are common with oversaturated succulents. It may be best to try to salvage leaf and/or stem cuttings to start over in advanced cases. Best Uses A hanging container that allows vines to cascade around is a striking vessel for showcasing the unusual beaded strands of C. rowleyanus. Use a non-hanging pot atop a pedestal, shelf, or mantel for a fresh, contemporary look. Prune the vines to desired lengths, let them pool around the container, or sweep them to one side for dynamic variations. And finally, mimic nature and let the vines creep over the potting medium in a shallow container, forming a dense mat like a “pavé” floral arrangement – dense and low-profile. Prune wayward tendrils as desired. A note of caution: keep tendrils out of reach of children or pets who may tug on them and topple a pot onto themselves. Dynamic and Decorative I like succulent gardening and fell immediately in love with string of pearls. It pairs well with rosettes of echeveria, ruffles of crassula, and spikes of haworthia, adding a new shape and movement with its spherical foliage and dangling stems. And when a species is also easy to care for and water-wise, it doesn’t take long for me to get on board, and I think you might be ready to join me. Are you ready to add a dynamic string of pearls to your home decor? Will you suspend or display it in a stationary pot atop a shelf or mantel? We’d love to hear about it in the comments section below. If you enjoyed reading this article and want to read about more succulents to grow indoors, we recommend the following: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published June 7th, 2022. Last updated January 6th, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics, the CTS Air Plants Store, and USKC. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[tumibaba]

Curio rowleyanus The string of pearls plant, Curio rowleyanus, is a funky succulent vine with rounded leaves that look like strands of pearls or peas. Formerly classified as Senecio rowleyanus, it is also commonly called string of beads. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Native to South Africa, it’s suited to outdoor cultivation in USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 12 and grows as a houseplant in all regions. And as with many ornamental species, it’s toxic to people and pets, so don’t eat it and wear gloves to protect sensitive skin from contact dermatitis. If you are as intrigued by C. rowleyanus as I am, read on for all you need to know to grow it indoors. Here’s what we’ll cover: Let’s start with a little background. German botanist Herman Jacobsen identified C. rowleyanus in 1968, naming it for famed British plant hunter, botanist, collection curator, and writer Gordon Douglas Rowley. Without their efforts, string of pearls might not be available to home gardeners worldwide today. Quick Look Common name(s): String of pearls Plant type: Succulent vine Hardiness (USDA Zone): 9-12 (outdoors) Native to: South Africa Bloom time / season: Summer Exposure: Full sun to part shade Soil type: Loose, well-draining succulent and cactus soil Soil pH: Around 6.0, slightly acidic Mature size: 1-2 ft wide x 1-2 ft high Best uses: Houseplant, outdoor ground cover, seasonal planter Toxicity: Medium-high Taxonomy Order: Asterales Family: Asteraceae Genus: Curio, formerly Senecio Species: Rowleyanus The pearl-like leaves of our subject species are plump water storage vessels. Unlike some succulents, the stems are not engorged with moisture but are slender and somewhat fragile. Each leaf has a noticeable dark green line that looks like a slit. This is a fenestration or epidermal window equipped to receive optimal sunlight for photosynthesis. C. rowleyanus copes with its arid environment by creeping horizontally, pushing roots into the soil, and forming a thick green ground cover. As it grows, it seeks shelter from the scalding sun and is often found in rock crevices and beneath trees. Indoors, plants thrive in bright indirect sunlight. They are eye-catching in hanging containers that showcase their trailing vines. Mature dimensions average one to two feet long and wide. However, three-foot lengths are possible under optimal conditions. Small white blossoms with a cinnamon-like fragrance may bloom in the summertime, although this is more likely with outdoor flora. Photo by Forest and Kim Starr, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA. When the flowers set seed, each has a fluffy “pappus,” like an aster or dandelion, that nature’s breezes would readily disperse in outdoor settings. Houseplant flowers are generally unpollinated and the seeds are unlikely to germinate. Does string of pearls sound like a worthy contender for a new or existing succulent collection? Read on for guidance on propagating a plant of your own. How to Grow When choosing a container, check for ample drainage holes. If there is a matching drip tray, great. If not, find an old dish or lid that can catch excess water. Remember to empty it. As succulents have shallow roots, depth is seldom a problem. However, it’s wise to select a pot with a fairly snug fit. A diameter that is one inch wider than the foliage width allows room for the watering can spout. A pot that’s too big may stay wet for such a long time it causes roots to rot. Soil Use a potting medium that is light, airy, and well-draining. One formulated for cacti and succulents meets these specifications and typically has the appropriate slightly acidic pH of about 6.0 that succulents favor. An excellent choice is Tank’s Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix. Tank’s Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix This product is made with coconut husks, compost, and pumice for water retention, drainage, and optimal growth. Tank’s Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix is available from Arbico Organics in packages containing one and a half cubic feet of medium. Remember to set rooted leaf cuttings, stem cuttings, and nursery plants at the same depth they were in their original containers, no deeper than half an inch from the pot rim. Fertilizer Fertilize them with a liquid cactus and succulent food diluted to half strength. Feed monthly throughout the growing season. A product you may like is Dr. Earth® Succulence® Cactus & Succulent Plant Food, 1-1-2 NPK. Dr. Earth Succulence Cactus & Succulent Plant Food This environmentally sound formulation is made from organic supermarket food waste and supports succulent health. Mix one gallon at half strength, or use four pumps of food per gallon of water, to have on hand for biweekly applications. Apply with a watering can. Dr. Earth® Succulence® Cactus & Succulent Plant Food is available from Arbico Organics in 16-ounce pump bottles. Water When you water, take the pot to the sink if possible. Continue to pour water until it runs through the drainage holes. Allow the pot to drain for a few minutes and water again to moisten all air pockets. Empty the drip tray as needed to avoid oversaturating the roots and raising the ambient humidity. Water about once every two weeks or when the soil completely dries out. If you like, purchase a moisture meter to guide you. As discussed, it’s better to err on the side of too dry than too wet. Do not use a mister. Wet leaves are prone to rotting, just like roots. Also, a mister increases the ambient humidity, which is fine for tropical flora but not for a desert succulent. During dormancy, from fall to spring, you’ll find that you only need to water about once a month to keep the soil from completely drying out. Discontinue fertilizer applications during this time, but continue to provide adequate sunlight. Humidity Succulents prefer household humidity between 30 and 50 percent. This is a healthy home range to have because, in addition to supporting desert plant health, it inhibits mold and dust mites, two common allergens. Too much moisture can lead to rotting, whether from poor drainage, overwatering, or excessive humidity. Light Provide your succulent with bright indirect sunlight. An eastern exposure or a distance of five to 10 feet from a sunny south-facing window is ideal. You may find that you need to move the pot during the day to avoid bright direct light that may cause scorching. Caring for string of pearls is easy with a good routine. Mark your calendar or garden planner with the approximate times to water and feed, so you don’t forget. Where to Buy String of pearls is available from various sources, including discount stores and online vendors. String of Pearls The CTS Air Plants Store offers three starter sizes: One 4-inch pot Two 2-inch pots One 6-inch hanging pot Find string of pearls from the CTS Air Plants Store via Amazon now. The variegated string of pearls, C. rowleyanus ‘Variegata,’ is another option. Variegated String of Pearls It has green and white leaves with mottled and striped markings for an even more striking addition to succulent groupings. Variegated foliage may grow slower and be more sensitive to light than green. Find variegated string of pearls now on Amazon, in four-inch pots. Maintenance Even with the best of care, a succulent occasionally requires additional tending. For example, if you are using your plant to make new ones, you may find that the ends of the tendrils branch off to form two or more offshoots instead of a single strand of leaves. If you don’t like this appearance, snip off those you don’t want just below a leaf. You should remove damaged, dead, or leafless stem portions to restore vigor and maintain an attractive appearance. Snip just below a leaf to promote rapid regrowth. If you see dry, brown leaves, you may be underwatering, and/or the location may be too sunny. Evaluate your watering habits and the sun exposure and make adjustments as needed. Oversaturation is likely if the leaves appear shrunken, squishy, and yellow. You may be able to dry a pot out by withholding water, but the damage may be irreversible. If you can, salvage a few good stems or leaves to propagate. And in the event of a pest infestation, which we’ll discuss shortly, prune off badly affected foliage to restore health and visual appeal. To encourage blooming, some folks put their succulents in a cool, dry 55 to 60°F location during winter dormancy to mimic nature and stimulate the process. Another type of care you can provide involves time spent outdoors in the summer. Gradually acclimate plants to the outdoors a few hours each day and avoid scorching direct sunlight. If humidity or rainfall are excessive, return them inside. Fresh air is rejuvenating for indoor flora and may invigorate underperformers. Note that outdoor pollination may produce viable seeds. You can try to collect the little seed wisps before they drift off to sow on the surface of a lightly moistened cactus and succulent potting medium. Keep the medium from drying out completely and place the germinating seeds in bright indirect sunlight. Post-bloom, cut the flower stems as close to the vine as possible without severing it to restore vigor to the foliage and maintain a neat appearance. Lastly, as the foliage grows wider, repot as needed to maintain a snug fit with an inch of room to water. Repot during dormancy to avoid disrupting growth. Propagation There are several ways to start a plant. Seeds are not readily available, as it’s much easier and faster to propagate succulents by taking leaf or stem cuttings and rooting them. We’ll talk a little about the possibility of starting from seed in the pruning and maintenance section below. From a Leaf Choose a plump, unblemished leaf. Use clean shears to snip the leaf from the vine. Remove the short stem or petiole that attached the leaf to the vine. Place the snipped leaf on a paper towel in bright indirect sunlight for about three days to dry and form a callus over the “wound.”  Once the leaf has formed a callus, fill a six-inch seed starter pot three-quarters full of cactus and succulent potting medium. Lightly moisten the medium. Lay the leaf on top, and press it gently to anchor it in the moist medium. Mist the soil as needed to keep it lightly moist but not soggy. Keep the pot in a location with bright indirect sunlight, or use a grow light. Over the next month or so, the leaf will wither as it grows roots and forms new foliage. New growth is evidence of success. From a Stem Cutting An even easier way to start a new plant is with a stem cutting. Here’s how: Cut a four-inch stem from the growing end of a long tendril. Snip off the bottom leaf or leaves to create a bare stem one inch long. Prepare the pot of soil as described above. Insert the bare stem into the prepared medium. Keep the medium lightly moist. Place the pot in bright indirect sunlight or beneath a grow light. New growth should appear in a few weeks. Another way to root a stem cutting is to lay it flat on the surface of the potting medium. Here’s how: Take a four-inch cutting. Lay the cut stem on the moist medium. Press the pearls gently to anchor the stem to the medium. Maintain moisture as described above and provide a bright indirect light source. In addition to rooting in potting medium, you can root a stem cutting in water, as follows: Take the cutting. Bare the bottom inch of the stem, removing any attached foliage. Place the cutting in a small jar or glass filled with one inch of water. For ideal sun exposure, make sure the top of the stem is a little taller than the container. It’s fun if the jar is clear and the roots are visible, so you can observe what’s happening. If you don’t have a friend with vines you can snip, you’ll need to buy a plant. From a Nursery Pot/Transplanting When you purchase C. rowleyanus, it may be a small “start” that’s a few inches tall or a mature specimen. Either way, the time may come when you want to transplant it or a rooted cutting to a new container. The secret to success is maintaining the same depth as in the original container. Succulents are susceptible to rotting, and those planted too deeply are the most vulnerable. When foliage is even with or one-half inch below the pot rim, it’s more likely to thrive and less likely to rot. Once propagated, it’s time to start a good care routine. Pests and Disease While our subject species is not prone to pests or diseases, dry indoor environments may attract aphids and mealybugs. Try to dislodge pests with the kitchen sink sprayer. Follow up with an application of organic insecticidal neem oil. As mentioned, rotting roots are common with oversaturated succulents. It may be best to try to salvage leaf and/or stem cuttings to start over in advanced cases. Best Uses A hanging container that allows vines to cascade around is a striking vessel for showcasing the unusual beaded strands of C. rowleyanus. Use a non-hanging pot atop a pedestal, shelf, or mantel for a fresh, contemporary look. Prune the vines to desired lengths, let them pool around the container, or sweep them to one side for dynamic variations. And finally, mimic nature and let the vines creep over the potting medium in a shallow container, forming a dense mat like a “pavé” floral arrangement – dense and low-profile. Prune wayward tendrils as desired. A note of caution: keep tendrils out of reach of children or pets who may tug on them and topple a pot onto themselves. Dynamic and Decorative I like succulent gardening and fell immediately in love with string of pearls. It pairs well with rosettes of echeveria, ruffles of crassula, and spikes of haworthia, adding a new shape and movement with its spherical foliage and dangling stems. And when a species is also easy to care for and water-wise, it doesn’t take long for me to get on board, and I think you might be ready to join me. Are you ready to add a dynamic string of pearls to your home decor? Will you suspend or display it in a stationary pot atop a shelf or mantel? We’d love to hear about it in the comments section below. If you enjoyed reading this article and want to read about more succulents to grow indoors, we recommend the following: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published June 7th, 2022. Last updated January 6th, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics, the CTS Air Plants Store, and USKC. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[romaleen]

Curio rowleyanus The string of pearls plant, Curio rowleyanus, is a funky succulent vine with rounded leaves that look like strands of pearls or peas. Formerly classified as Senecio rowleyanus, it is also commonly called string of beads. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Native to South Africa, it’s suited to outdoor cultivation in USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 12 and grows as a houseplant in all regions. And as with many ornamental species, it’s toxic to people and pets, so don’t eat it and wear gloves to protect sensitive skin from contact dermatitis. If you are as intrigued by C. rowleyanus as I am, read on for all you need to know to grow it indoors. Here’s what we’ll cover: Let’s start with a little background. German botanist Herman Jacobsen identified C. rowleyanus in 1968, naming it for famed British plant hunter, botanist, collection curator, and writer Gordon Douglas Rowley. Without their efforts, string of pearls might not be available to home gardeners worldwide today. Quick Look Common name(s): String of pearls Plant type: Succulent vine Hardiness (USDA Zone): 9-12 (outdoors) Native to: South Africa Bloom time / season: Summer Exposure: Full sun to part shade Soil type: Loose, well-draining succulent and cactus soil Soil pH: Around 6.0, slightly acidic Mature size: 1-2 ft wide x 1-2 ft high Best uses: Houseplant, outdoor ground cover, seasonal planter Toxicity: Medium-high Taxonomy Order: Asterales Family: Asteraceae Genus: Curio, formerly Senecio Species: Rowleyanus The pearl-like leaves of our subject species are plump water storage vessels. Unlike some succulents, the stems are not engorged with moisture but are slender and somewhat fragile. Each leaf has a noticeable dark green line that looks like a slit. This is a fenestration or epidermal window equipped to receive optimal sunlight for photosynthesis. C. rowleyanus copes with its arid environment by creeping horizontally, pushing roots into the soil, and forming a thick green ground cover. As it grows, it seeks shelter from the scalding sun and is often found in rock crevices and beneath trees. Indoors, plants thrive in bright indirect sunlight. They are eye-catching in hanging containers that showcase their trailing vines. Mature dimensions average one to two feet long and wide. However, three-foot lengths are possible under optimal conditions. Small white blossoms with a cinnamon-like fragrance may bloom in the summertime, although this is more likely with outdoor flora. Photo by Forest and Kim Starr, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA. When the flowers set seed, each has a fluffy “pappus,” like an aster or dandelion, that nature’s breezes would readily disperse in outdoor settings. Houseplant flowers are generally unpollinated and the seeds are unlikely to germinate. Does string of pearls sound like a worthy contender for a new or existing succulent collection? Read on for guidance on propagating a plant of your own. How to Grow When choosing a container, check for ample drainage holes. If there is a matching drip tray, great. If not, find an old dish or lid that can catch excess water. Remember to empty it. As succulents have shallow roots, depth is seldom a problem. However, it’s wise to select a pot with a fairly snug fit. A diameter that is one inch wider than the foliage width allows room for the watering can spout. A pot that’s too big may stay wet for such a long time it causes roots to rot. Soil Use a potting medium that is light, airy, and well-draining. One formulated for cacti and succulents meets these specifications and typically has the appropriate slightly acidic pH of about 6.0 that succulents favor. An excellent choice is Tank’s Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix. Tank’s Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix This product is made with coconut husks, compost, and pumice for water retention, drainage, and optimal growth. Tank’s Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix is available from Arbico Organics in packages containing one and a half cubic feet of medium. Remember to set rooted leaf cuttings, stem cuttings, and nursery plants at the same depth they were in their original containers, no deeper than half an inch from the pot rim. Fertilizer Fertilize them with a liquid cactus and succulent food diluted to half strength. Feed monthly throughout the growing season. A product you may like is Dr. Earth® Succulence® Cactus & Succulent Plant Food, 1-1-2 NPK. Dr. Earth Succulence Cactus & Succulent Plant Food This environmentally sound formulation is made from organic supermarket food waste and supports succulent health. Mix one gallon at half strength, or use four pumps of food per gallon of water, to have on hand for biweekly applications. Apply with a watering can. Dr. Earth® Succulence® Cactus & Succulent Plant Food is available from Arbico Organics in 16-ounce pump bottles. Water When you water, take the pot to the sink if possible. Continue to pour water until it runs through the drainage holes. Allow the pot to drain for a few minutes and water again to moisten all air pockets. Empty the drip tray as needed to avoid oversaturating the roots and raising the ambient humidity. Water about once every two weeks or when the soil completely dries out. If you like, purchase a moisture meter to guide you. As discussed, it’s better to err on the side of too dry than too wet. Do not use a mister. Wet leaves are prone to rotting, just like roots. Also, a mister increases the ambient humidity, which is fine for tropical flora but not for a desert succulent. During dormancy, from fall to spring, you’ll find that you only need to water about once a month to keep the soil from completely drying out. Discontinue fertilizer applications during this time, but continue to provide adequate sunlight. Humidity Succulents prefer household humidity between 30 and 50 percent. This is a healthy home range to have because, in addition to supporting desert plant health, it inhibits mold and dust mites, two common allergens. Too much moisture can lead to rotting, whether from poor drainage, overwatering, or excessive humidity. Light Provide your succulent with bright indirect sunlight. An eastern exposure or a distance of five to 10 feet from a sunny south-facing window is ideal. You may find that you need to move the pot during the day to avoid bright direct light that may cause scorching. Caring for string of pearls is easy with a good routine. Mark your calendar or garden planner with the approximate times to water and feed, so you don’t forget. Where to Buy String of pearls is available from various sources, including discount stores and online vendors. String of Pearls The CTS Air Plants Store offers three starter sizes: One 4-inch pot Two 2-inch pots One 6-inch hanging pot Find string of pearls from the CTS Air Plants Store via Amazon now. The variegated string of pearls, C. rowleyanus ‘Variegata,’ is another option. Variegated String of Pearls It has green and white leaves with mottled and striped markings for an even more striking addition to succulent groupings. Variegated foliage may grow slower and be more sensitive to light than green. Find variegated string of pearls now on Amazon, in four-inch pots. Maintenance Even with the best of care, a succulent occasionally requires additional tending. For example, if you are using your plant to make new ones, you may find that the ends of the tendrils branch off to form two or more offshoots instead of a single strand of leaves. If you don’t like this appearance, snip off those you don’t want just below a leaf. You should remove damaged, dead, or leafless stem portions to restore vigor and maintain an attractive appearance. Snip just below a leaf to promote rapid regrowth. If you see dry, brown leaves, you may be underwatering, and/or the location may be too sunny. Evaluate your watering habits and the sun exposure and make adjustments as needed. Oversaturation is likely if the leaves appear shrunken, squishy, and yellow. You may be able to dry a pot out by withholding water, but the damage may be irreversible. If you can, salvage a few good stems or leaves to propagate. And in the event of a pest infestation, which we’ll discuss shortly, prune off badly affected foliage to restore health and visual appeal. To encourage blooming, some folks put their succulents in a cool, dry 55 to 60°F location during winter dormancy to mimic nature and stimulate the process. Another type of care you can provide involves time spent outdoors in the summer. Gradually acclimate plants to the outdoors a few hours each day and avoid scorching direct sunlight. If humidity or rainfall are excessive, return them inside. Fresh air is rejuvenating for indoor flora and may invigorate underperformers. Note that outdoor pollination may produce viable seeds. You can try to collect the little seed wisps before they drift off to sow on the surface of a lightly moistened cactus and succulent potting medium. Keep the medium from drying out completely and place the germinating seeds in bright indirect sunlight. Post-bloom, cut the flower stems as close to the vine as possible without severing it to restore vigor to the foliage and maintain a neat appearance. Lastly, as the foliage grows wider, repot as needed to maintain a snug fit with an inch of room to water. Repot during dormancy to avoid disrupting growth. Propagation There are several ways to start a plant. Seeds are not readily available, as it’s much easier and faster to propagate succulents by taking leaf or stem cuttings and rooting them. We’ll talk a little about the possibility of starting from seed in the pruning and maintenance section below. From a Leaf Choose a plump, unblemished leaf. Use clean shears to snip the leaf from the vine. Remove the short stem or petiole that attached the leaf to the vine. Place the snipped leaf on a paper towel in bright indirect sunlight for about three days to dry and form a callus over the “wound.”  Once the leaf has formed a callus, fill a six-inch seed starter pot three-quarters full of cactus and succulent potting medium. Lightly moisten the medium. Lay the leaf on top, and press it gently to anchor it in the moist medium. Mist the soil as needed to keep it lightly moist but not soggy. Keep the pot in a location with bright indirect sunlight, or use a grow light. Over the next month or so, the leaf will wither as it grows roots and forms new foliage. New growth is evidence of success. From a Stem Cutting An even easier way to start a new plant is with a stem cutting. Here’s how: Cut a four-inch stem from the growing end of a long tendril. Snip off the bottom leaf or leaves to create a bare stem one inch long. Prepare the pot of soil as described above. Insert the bare stem into the prepared medium. Keep the medium lightly moist. Place the pot in bright indirect sunlight or beneath a grow light. New growth should appear in a few weeks. Another way to root a stem cutting is to lay it flat on the surface of the potting medium. Here’s how: Take a four-inch cutting. Lay the cut stem on the moist medium. Press the pearls gently to anchor the stem to the medium. Maintain moisture as described above and provide a bright indirect light source. In addition to rooting in potting medium, you can root a stem cutting in water, as follows: Take the cutting. Bare the bottom inch of the stem, removing any attached foliage. Place the cutting in a small jar or glass filled with one inch of water. For ideal sun exposure, make sure the top of the stem is a little taller than the container. It’s fun if the jar is clear and the roots are visible, so you can observe what’s happening. If you don’t have a friend with vines you can snip, you’ll need to buy a plant. From a Nursery Pot/Transplanting When you purchase C. rowleyanus, it may be a small “start” that’s a few inches tall or a mature specimen. Either way, the time may come when you want to transplant it or a rooted cutting to a new container. The secret to success is maintaining the same depth as in the original container. Succulents are susceptible to rotting, and those planted too deeply are the most vulnerable. When foliage is even with or one-half inch below the pot rim, it’s more likely to thrive and less likely to rot. Once propagated, it’s time to start a good care routine. Pests and Disease While our subject species is not prone to pests or diseases, dry indoor environments may attract aphids and mealybugs. Try to dislodge pests with the kitchen sink sprayer. Follow up with an application of organic insecticidal neem oil. As mentioned, rotting roots are common with oversaturated succulents. It may be best to try to salvage leaf and/or stem cuttings to start over in advanced cases. Best Uses A hanging container that allows vines to cascade around is a striking vessel for showcasing the unusual beaded strands of C. rowleyanus. Use a non-hanging pot atop a pedestal, shelf, or mantel for a fresh, contemporary look. Prune the vines to desired lengths, let them pool around the container, or sweep them to one side for dynamic variations. And finally, mimic nature and let the vines creep over the potting medium in a shallow container, forming a dense mat like a “pavé” floral arrangement – dense and low-profile. Prune wayward tendrils as desired. A note of caution: keep tendrils out of reach of children or pets who may tug on them and topple a pot onto themselves. Dynamic and Decorative I like succulent gardening and fell immediately in love with string of pearls. It pairs well with rosettes of echeveria, ruffles of crassula, and spikes of haworthia, adding a new shape and movement with its spherical foliage and dangling stems. And when a species is also easy to care for and water-wise, it doesn’t take long for me to get on board, and I think you might be ready to join me. Are you ready to add a dynamic string of pearls to your home decor? Will you suspend or display it in a stationary pot atop a shelf or mantel? We’d love to hear about it in the comments section below. If you enjoyed reading this article and want to read about more succulents to grow indoors, we recommend the following: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published June 7th, 2022. Last updated January 6th, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics, the CTS Air Plants Store, and USKC. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[monaleen101]

Curio rowleyanus The string of pearls plant, Curio rowleyanus, is a funky succulent vine with rounded leaves that look like strands of pearls or peas. Formerly classified as Senecio rowleyanus, it is also commonly called string of beads. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Native to South Africa, it’s suited to outdoor cultivation in USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 12 and grows as a houseplant in all regions. And as with many ornamental species, it’s toxic to people and pets, so don’t eat it and wear gloves to protect sensitive skin from contact dermatitis. If you are as intrigued by C. rowleyanus as I am, read on for all you need to know to grow it indoors. Here’s what we’ll cover: Let’s start with a little background. German botanist Herman Jacobsen identified C. rowleyanus in 1968, naming it for famed British plant hunter, botanist, collection curator, and writer Gordon Douglas Rowley. Without their efforts, string of pearls might not be available to home gardeners worldwide today. Quick Look Common name(s): String of pearls Plant type: Succulent vine Hardiness (USDA Zone): 9-12 (outdoors) Native to: South Africa Bloom time / season: Summer Exposure: Full sun to part shade Soil type: Loose, well-draining succulent and cactus soil Soil pH: Around 6.0, slightly acidic Mature size: 1-2 ft wide x 1-2 ft high Best uses: Houseplant, outdoor ground cover, seasonal planter Toxicity: Medium-high Taxonomy Order: Asterales Family: Asteraceae Genus: Curio, formerly Senecio Species: Rowleyanus The pearl-like leaves of our subject species are plump water storage vessels. Unlike some succulents, the stems are not engorged with moisture but are slender and somewhat fragile. Each leaf has a noticeable dark green line that looks like a slit. This is a fenestration or epidermal window equipped to receive optimal sunlight for photosynthesis. C. rowleyanus copes with its arid environment by creeping horizontally, pushing roots into the soil, and forming a thick green ground cover. As it grows, it seeks shelter from the scalding sun and is often found in rock crevices and beneath trees. Indoors, plants thrive in bright indirect sunlight. They are eye-catching in hanging containers that showcase their trailing vines. Mature dimensions average one to two feet long and wide. However, three-foot lengths are possible under optimal conditions. Small white blossoms with a cinnamon-like fragrance may bloom in the summertime, although this is more likely with outdoor flora. Photo by Forest and Kim Starr, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA. When the flowers set seed, each has a fluffy “pappus,” like an aster or dandelion, that nature’s breezes would readily disperse in outdoor settings. Houseplant flowers are generally unpollinated and the seeds are unlikely to germinate. Does string of pearls sound like a worthy contender for a new or existing succulent collection? Read on for guidance on propagating a plant of your own. How to Grow When choosing a container, check for ample drainage holes. If there is a matching drip tray, great. If not, find an old dish or lid that can catch excess water. Remember to empty it. As succulents have shallow roots, depth is seldom a problem. However, it’s wise to select a pot with a fairly snug fit. A diameter that is one inch wider than the foliage width allows room for the watering can spout. A pot that’s too big may stay wet for such a long time it causes roots to rot. Soil Use a potting medium that is light, airy, and well-draining. One formulated for cacti and succulents meets these specifications and typically has the appropriate slightly acidic pH of about 6.0 that succulents favor. An excellent choice is Tank’s Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix. Tank’s Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix This product is made with coconut husks, compost, and pumice for water retention, drainage, and optimal growth. Tank’s Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix is available from Arbico Organics in packages containing one and a half cubic feet of medium. Remember to set rooted leaf cuttings, stem cuttings, and nursery plants at the same depth they were in their original containers, no deeper than half an inch from the pot rim. Fertilizer Fertilize them with a liquid cactus and succulent food diluted to half strength. Feed monthly throughout the growing season. A product you may like is Dr. Earth® Succulence® Cactus & Succulent Plant Food, 1-1-2 NPK. Dr. Earth Succulence Cactus & Succulent Plant Food This environmentally sound formulation is made from organic supermarket food waste and supports succulent health. Mix one gallon at half strength, or use four pumps of food per gallon of water, to have on hand for biweekly applications. Apply with a watering can. Dr. Earth® Succulence® Cactus & Succulent Plant Food is available from Arbico Organics in 16-ounce pump bottles. Water When you water, take the pot to the sink if possible. Continue to pour water until it runs through the drainage holes. Allow the pot to drain for a few minutes and water again to moisten all air pockets. Empty the drip tray as needed to avoid oversaturating the roots and raising the ambient humidity. Water about once every two weeks or when the soil completely dries out. If you like, purchase a moisture meter to guide you. As discussed, it’s better to err on the side of too dry than too wet. Do not use a mister. Wet leaves are prone to rotting, just like roots. Also, a mister increases the ambient humidity, which is fine for tropical flora but not for a desert succulent. During dormancy, from fall to spring, you’ll find that you only need to water about once a month to keep the soil from completely drying out. Discontinue fertilizer applications during this time, but continue to provide adequate sunlight. Humidity Succulents prefer household humidity between 30 and 50 percent. This is a healthy home range to have because, in addition to supporting desert plant health, it inhibits mold and dust mites, two common allergens. Too much moisture can lead to rotting, whether from poor drainage, overwatering, or excessive humidity. Light Provide your succulent with bright indirect sunlight. An eastern exposure or a distance of five to 10 feet from a sunny south-facing window is ideal. You may find that you need to move the pot during the day to avoid bright direct light that may cause scorching. Caring for string of pearls is easy with a good routine. Mark your calendar or garden planner with the approximate times to water and feed, so you don’t forget. Where to Buy String of pearls is available from various sources, including discount stores and online vendors. String of Pearls The CTS Air Plants Store offers three starter sizes: One 4-inch pot Two 2-inch pots One 6-inch hanging pot Find string of pearls from the CTS Air Plants Store via Amazon now. The variegated string of pearls, C. rowleyanus ‘Variegata,’ is another option. Variegated String of Pearls It has green and white leaves with mottled and striped markings for an even more striking addition to succulent groupings. Variegated foliage may grow slower and be more sensitive to light than green. Find variegated string of pearls now on Amazon, in four-inch pots. Maintenance Even with the best of care, a succulent occasionally requires additional tending. For example, if you are using your plant to make new ones, you may find that the ends of the tendrils branch off to form two or more offshoots instead of a single strand of leaves. If you don’t like this appearance, snip off those you don’t want just below a leaf. You should remove damaged, dead, or leafless stem portions to restore vigor and maintain an attractive appearance. Snip just below a leaf to promote rapid regrowth. If you see dry, brown leaves, you may be underwatering, and/or the location may be too sunny. Evaluate your watering habits and the sun exposure and make adjustments as needed. Oversaturation is likely if the leaves appear shrunken, squishy, and yellow. You may be able to dry a pot out by withholding water, but the damage may be irreversible. If you can, salvage a few good stems or leaves to propagate. And in the event of a pest infestation, which we’ll discuss shortly, prune off badly affected foliage to restore health and visual appeal. To encourage blooming, some folks put their succulents in a cool, dry 55 to 60°F location during winter dormancy to mimic nature and stimulate the process. Another type of care you can provide involves time spent outdoors in the summer. Gradually acclimate plants to the outdoors a few hours each day and avoid scorching direct sunlight. If humidity or rainfall are excessive, return them inside. Fresh air is rejuvenating for indoor flora and may invigorate underperformers. Note that outdoor pollination may produce viable seeds. You can try to collect the little seed wisps before they drift off to sow on the surface of a lightly moistened cactus and succulent potting medium. Keep the medium from drying out completely and place the germinating seeds in bright indirect sunlight. Post-bloom, cut the flower stems as close to the vine as possible without severing it to restore vigor to the foliage and maintain a neat appearance. Lastly, as the foliage grows wider, repot as needed to maintain a snug fit with an inch of room to water. Repot during dormancy to avoid disrupting growth. Propagation There are several ways to start a plant. Seeds are not readily available, as it’s much easier and faster to propagate succulents by taking leaf or stem cuttings and rooting them. We’ll talk a little about the possibility of starting from seed in the pruning and maintenance section below. From a Leaf Choose a plump, unblemished leaf. Use clean shears to snip the leaf from the vine. Remove the short stem or petiole that attached the leaf to the vine. Place the snipped leaf on a paper towel in bright indirect sunlight for about three days to dry and form a callus over the “wound.”  Once the leaf has formed a callus, fill a six-inch seed starter pot three-quarters full of cactus and succulent potting medium. Lightly moisten the medium. Lay the leaf on top, and press it gently to anchor it in the moist medium. Mist the soil as needed to keep it lightly moist but not soggy. Keep the pot in a location with bright indirect sunlight, or use a grow light. Over the next month or so, the leaf will wither as it grows roots and forms new foliage. New growth is evidence of success. From a Stem Cutting An even easier way to start a new plant is with a stem cutting. Here’s how: Cut a four-inch stem from the growing end of a long tendril. Snip off the bottom leaf or leaves to create a bare stem one inch long. Prepare the pot of soil as described above. Insert the bare stem into the prepared medium. Keep the medium lightly moist. Place the pot in bright indirect sunlight or beneath a grow light. New growth should appear in a few weeks. Another way to root a stem cutting is to lay it flat on the surface of the potting medium. Here’s how: Take a four-inch cutting. Lay the cut stem on the moist medium. Press the pearls gently to anchor the stem to the medium. Maintain moisture as described above and provide a bright indirect light source. In addition to rooting in potting medium, you can root a stem cutting in water, as follows: Take the cutting. Bare the bottom inch of the stem, removing any attached foliage. Place the cutting in a small jar or glass filled with one inch of water. For ideal sun exposure, make sure the top of the stem is a little taller than the container. It’s fun if the jar is clear and the roots are visible, so you can observe what’s happening. If you don’t have a friend with vines you can snip, you’ll need to buy a plant. From a Nursery Pot/Transplanting When you purchase C. rowleyanus, it may be a small “start” that’s a few inches tall or a mature specimen. Either way, the time may come when you want to transplant it or a rooted cutting to a new container. The secret to success is maintaining the same depth as in the original container. Succulents are susceptible to rotting, and those planted too deeply are the most vulnerable. When foliage is even with or one-half inch below the pot rim, it’s more likely to thrive and less likely to rot. Once propagated, it’s time to start a good care routine. Pests and Disease While our subject species is not prone to pests or diseases, dry indoor environments may attract aphids and mealybugs. Try to dislodge pests with the kitchen sink sprayer. Follow up with an application of organic insecticidal neem oil. As mentioned, rotting roots are common with oversaturated succulents. It may be best to try to salvage leaf and/or stem cuttings to start over in advanced cases. Best Uses A hanging container that allows vines to cascade around is a striking vessel for showcasing the unusual beaded strands of C. rowleyanus. Use a non-hanging pot atop a pedestal, shelf, or mantel for a fresh, contemporary look. Prune the vines to desired lengths, let them pool around the container, or sweep them to one side for dynamic variations. And finally, mimic nature and let the vines creep over the potting medium in a shallow container, forming a dense mat like a “pavé” floral arrangement – dense and low-profile. Prune wayward tendrils as desired. A note of caution: keep tendrils out of reach of children or pets who may tug on them and topple a pot onto themselves. Dynamic and Decorative I like succulent gardening and fell immediately in love with string of pearls. It pairs well with rosettes of echeveria, ruffles of crassula, and spikes of haworthia, adding a new shape and movement with its spherical foliage and dangling stems. And when a species is also easy to care for and water-wise, it doesn’t take long for me to get on board, and I think you might be ready to join me. Are you ready to add a dynamic string of pearls to your home decor? Will you suspend or display it in a stationary pot atop a shelf or mantel? We’d love to hear about it in the comments section below. If you enjoyed reading this article and want to read about more succulents to grow indoors, we recommend the following: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published June 7th, 2022. Last updated January 6th, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics, the CTS Air Plants Store, and USKC. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[iamownerofme]

Curio rowleyanus The string of pearls plant, Curio rowleyanus, is a funky succulent vine with rounded leaves that look like strands of pearls or peas. Formerly classified as Senecio rowleyanus, it is also commonly called string of beads. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Native to South Africa, it’s suited to outdoor cultivation in USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 12 and grows as a houseplant in all regions. And as with many ornamental species, it’s toxic to people and pets, so don’t eat it and wear gloves to protect sensitive skin from contact dermatitis. If you are as intrigued by C. rowleyanus as I am, read on for all you need to know to grow it indoors. Here’s what we’ll cover: Let’s start with a little background. German botanist Herman Jacobsen identified C. rowleyanus in 1968, naming it for famed British plant hunter, botanist, collection curator, and writer Gordon Douglas Rowley. Without their efforts, string of pearls might not be available to home gardeners worldwide today. Quick Look Common name(s): String of pearls Plant type: Succulent vine Hardiness (USDA Zone): 9-12 (outdoors) Native to: South Africa Bloom time / season: Summer Exposure: Full sun to part shade Soil type: Loose, well-draining succulent and cactus soil Soil pH: Around 6.0, slightly acidic Mature size: 1-2 ft wide x 1-2 ft high Best uses: Houseplant, outdoor ground cover, seasonal planter Toxicity: Medium-high Taxonomy Order: Asterales Family: Asteraceae Genus: Curio, formerly Senecio Species: Rowleyanus The pearl-like leaves of our subject species are plump water storage vessels. Unlike some succulents, the stems are not engorged with moisture but are slender and somewhat fragile. Each leaf has a noticeable dark green line that looks like a slit. This is a fenestration or epidermal window equipped to receive optimal sunlight for photosynthesis. C. rowleyanus copes with its arid environment by creeping horizontally, pushing roots into the soil, and forming a thick green ground cover. As it grows, it seeks shelter from the scalding sun and is often found in rock crevices and beneath trees. Indoors, plants thrive in bright indirect sunlight. They are eye-catching in hanging containers that showcase their trailing vines. Mature dimensions average one to two feet long and wide. However, three-foot lengths are possible under optimal conditions. Small white blossoms with a cinnamon-like fragrance may bloom in the summertime, although this is more likely with outdoor flora. Photo by Forest and Kim Starr, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA. When the flowers set seed, each has a fluffy “pappus,” like an aster or dandelion, that nature’s breezes would readily disperse in outdoor settings. Houseplant flowers are generally unpollinated and the seeds are unlikely to germinate. Does string of pearls sound like a worthy contender for a new or existing succulent collection? Read on for guidance on propagating a plant of your own. How to Grow When choosing a container, check for ample drainage holes. If there is a matching drip tray, great. If not, find an old dish or lid that can catch excess water. Remember to empty it. As succulents have shallow roots, depth is seldom a problem. However, it’s wise to select a pot with a fairly snug fit. A diameter that is one inch wider than the foliage width allows room for the watering can spout. A pot that’s too big may stay wet for such a long time it causes roots to rot. Soil Use a potting medium that is light, airy, and well-draining. One formulated for cacti and succulents meets these specifications and typically has the appropriate slightly acidic pH of about 6.0 that succulents favor. An excellent choice is Tank’s Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix. Tank’s Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix This product is made with coconut husks, compost, and pumice for water retention, drainage, and optimal growth. Tank’s Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix is available from Arbico Organics in packages containing one and a half cubic feet of medium. Remember to set rooted leaf cuttings, stem cuttings, and nursery plants at the same depth they were in their original containers, no deeper than half an inch from the pot rim. Fertilizer Fertilize them with a liquid cactus and succulent food diluted to half strength. Feed monthly throughout the growing season. A product you may like is Dr. Earth® Succulence® Cactus & Succulent Plant Food, 1-1-2 NPK. Dr. Earth Succulence Cactus & Succulent Plant Food This environmentally sound formulation is made from organic supermarket food waste and supports succulent health. Mix one gallon at half strength, or use four pumps of food per gallon of water, to have on hand for biweekly applications. Apply with a watering can. Dr. Earth® Succulence® Cactus & Succulent Plant Food is available from Arbico Organics in 16-ounce pump bottles. Water When you water, take the pot to the sink if possible. Continue to pour water until it runs through the drainage holes. Allow the pot to drain for a few minutes and water again to moisten all air pockets. Empty the drip tray as needed to avoid oversaturating the roots and raising the ambient humidity. Water about once every two weeks or when the soil completely dries out. If you like, purchase a moisture meter to guide you. As discussed, it’s better to err on the side of too dry than too wet. Do not use a mister. Wet leaves are prone to rotting, just like roots. Also, a mister increases the ambient humidity, which is fine for tropical flora but not for a desert succulent. During dormancy, from fall to spring, you’ll find that you only need to water about once a month to keep the soil from completely drying out. Discontinue fertilizer applications during this time, but continue to provide adequate sunlight. Humidity Succulents prefer household humidity between 30 and 50 percent. This is a healthy home range to have because, in addition to supporting desert plant health, it inhibits mold and dust mites, two common allergens. Too much moisture can lead to rotting, whether from poor drainage, overwatering, or excessive humidity. Light Provide your succulent with bright indirect sunlight. An eastern exposure or a distance of five to 10 feet from a sunny south-facing window is ideal. You may find that you need to move the pot during the day to avoid bright direct light that may cause scorching. Caring for string of pearls is easy with a good routine. Mark your calendar or garden planner with the approximate times to water and feed, so you don’t forget. Where to Buy String of pearls is available from various sources, including discount stores and online vendors. String of Pearls The CTS Air Plants Store offers three starter sizes: One 4-inch pot Two 2-inch pots One 6-inch hanging pot Find string of pearls from the CTS Air Plants Store via Amazon now. The variegated string of pearls, C. rowleyanus ‘Variegata,’ is another option. Variegated String of Pearls It has green and white leaves with mottled and striped markings for an even more striking addition to succulent groupings. Variegated foliage may grow slower and be more sensitive to light than green. Find variegated string of pearls now on Amazon, in four-inch pots. Maintenance Even with the best of care, a succulent occasionally requires additional tending. For example, if you are using your plant to make new ones, you may find that the ends of the tendrils branch off to form two or more offshoots instead of a single strand of leaves. If you don’t like this appearance, snip off those you don’t want just below a leaf. You should remove damaged, dead, or leafless stem portions to restore vigor and maintain an attractive appearance. Snip just below a leaf to promote rapid regrowth. If you see dry, brown leaves, you may be underwatering, and/or the location may be too sunny. Evaluate your watering habits and the sun exposure and make adjustments as needed. Oversaturation is likely if the leaves appear shrunken, squishy, and yellow. You may be able to dry a pot out by withholding water, but the damage may be irreversible. If you can, salvage a few good stems or leaves to propagate. And in the event of a pest infestation, which we’ll discuss shortly, prune off badly affected foliage to restore health and visual appeal. To encourage blooming, some folks put their succulents in a cool, dry 55 to 60°F location during winter dormancy to mimic nature and stimulate the process. Another type of care you can provide involves time spent outdoors in the summer. Gradually acclimate plants to the outdoors a few hours each day and avoid scorching direct sunlight. If humidity or rainfall are excessive, return them inside. Fresh air is rejuvenating for indoor flora and may invigorate underperformers. Note that outdoor pollination may produce viable seeds. You can try to collect the little seed wisps before they drift off to sow on the surface of a lightly moistened cactus and succulent potting medium. Keep the medium from drying out completely and place the germinating seeds in bright indirect sunlight. Post-bloom, cut the flower stems as close to the vine as possible without severing it to restore vigor to the foliage and maintain a neat appearance. Lastly, as the foliage grows wider, repot as needed to maintain a snug fit with an inch of room to water. Repot during dormancy to avoid disrupting growth. Propagation There are several ways to start a plant. Seeds are not readily available, as it’s much easier and faster to propagate succulents by taking leaf or stem cuttings and rooting them. We’ll talk a little about the possibility of starting from seed in the pruning and maintenance section below. From a Leaf Choose a plump, unblemished leaf. Use clean shears to snip the leaf from the vine. Remove the short stem or petiole that attached the leaf to the vine. Place the snipped leaf on a paper towel in bright indirect sunlight for about three days to dry and form a callus over the “wound.”  Once the leaf has formed a callus, fill a six-inch seed starter pot three-quarters full of cactus and succulent potting medium. Lightly moisten the medium. Lay the leaf on top, and press it gently to anchor it in the moist medium. Mist the soil as needed to keep it lightly moist but not soggy. Keep the pot in a location with bright indirect sunlight, or use a grow light. Over the next month or so, the leaf will wither as it grows roots and forms new foliage. New growth is evidence of success. From a Stem Cutting An even easier way to start a new plant is with a stem cutting. Here’s how: Cut a four-inch stem from the growing end of a long tendril. Snip off the bottom leaf or leaves to create a bare stem one inch long. Prepare the pot of soil as described above. Insert the bare stem into the prepared medium. Keep the medium lightly moist. Place the pot in bright indirect sunlight or beneath a grow light. New growth should appear in a few weeks. Another way to root a stem cutting is to lay it flat on the surface of the potting medium. Here’s how: Take a four-inch cutting. Lay the cut stem on the moist medium. Press the pearls gently to anchor the stem to the medium. Maintain moisture as described above and provide a bright indirect light source. In addition to rooting in potting medium, you can root a stem cutting in water, as follows: Take the cutting. Bare the bottom inch of the stem, removing any attached foliage. Place the cutting in a small jar or glass filled with one inch of water. For ideal sun exposure, make sure the top of the stem is a little taller than the container. It’s fun if the jar is clear and the roots are visible, so you can observe what’s happening. If you don’t have a friend with vines you can snip, you’ll need to buy a plant. From a Nursery Pot/Transplanting When you purchase C. rowleyanus, it may be a small “start” that’s a few inches tall or a mature specimen. Either way, the time may come when you want to transplant it or a rooted cutting to a new container. The secret to success is maintaining the same depth as in the original container. Succulents are susceptible to rotting, and those planted too deeply are the most vulnerable. When foliage is even with or one-half inch below the pot rim, it’s more likely to thrive and less likely to rot. Once propagated, it’s time to start a good care routine. Pests and Disease While our subject species is not prone to pests or diseases, dry indoor environments may attract aphids and mealybugs. Try to dislodge pests with the kitchen sink sprayer. Follow up with an application of organic insecticidal neem oil. As mentioned, rotting roots are common with oversaturated succulents. It may be best to try to salvage leaf and/or stem cuttings to start over in advanced cases. Best Uses A hanging container that allows vines to cascade around is a striking vessel for showcasing the unusual beaded strands of C. rowleyanus. Use a non-hanging pot atop a pedestal, shelf, or mantel for a fresh, contemporary look. Prune the vines to desired lengths, let them pool around the container, or sweep them to one side for dynamic variations. And finally, mimic nature and let the vines creep over the potting medium in a shallow container, forming a dense mat like a “pavé” floral arrangement – dense and low-profile. Prune wayward tendrils as desired. A note of caution: keep tendrils out of reach of children or pets who may tug on them and topple a pot onto themselves. Dynamic and Decorative I like succulent gardening and fell immediately in love with string of pearls. It pairs well with rosettes of echeveria, ruffles of crassula, and spikes of haworthia, adding a new shape and movement with its spherical foliage and dangling stems. And when a species is also easy to care for and water-wise, it doesn’t take long for me to get on board, and I think you might be ready to join me. Are you ready to add a dynamic string of pearls to your home decor? Will you suspend or display it in a stationary pot atop a shelf or mantel? We’d love to hear about it in the comments section below. If you enjoyed reading this article and want to read about more succulents to grow indoors, we recommend the following: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published June 7th, 2022. Last updated January 6th, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics, the CTS Air Plants Store, and USKC. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[shelyold]

Curio rowleyanus The string of pearls plant, Curio rowleyanus, is a funky succulent vine with rounded leaves that look like strands of pearls or peas. Formerly classified as Senecio rowleyanus, it is also commonly called string of beads. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Native to South Africa, it’s suited to outdoor cultivation in USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 12 and grows as a houseplant in all regions. And as with many ornamental species, it’s toxic to people and pets, so don’t eat it and wear gloves to protect sensitive skin from contact dermatitis. If you are as intrigued by C. rowleyanus as I am, read on for all you need to know to grow it indoors. Here’s what we’ll cover: Let’s start with a little background. German botanist Herman Jacobsen identified C. rowleyanus in 1968, naming it for famed British plant hunter, botanist, collection curator, and writer Gordon Douglas Rowley. Without their efforts, string of pearls might not be available to home gardeners worldwide today. Quick Look Common name(s): String of pearls Plant type: Succulent vine Hardiness (USDA Zone): 9-12 (outdoors) Native to: South Africa Bloom time / season: Summer Exposure: Full sun to part shade Soil type: Loose, well-draining succulent and cactus soil Soil pH: Around 6.0, slightly acidic Mature size: 1-2 ft wide x 1-2 ft high Best uses: Houseplant, outdoor ground cover, seasonal planter Toxicity: Medium-high Taxonomy Order: Asterales Family: Asteraceae Genus: Curio, formerly Senecio Species: Rowleyanus The pearl-like leaves of our subject species are plump water storage vessels. Unlike some succulents, the stems are not engorged with moisture but are slender and somewhat fragile. Each leaf has a noticeable dark green line that looks like a slit. This is a fenestration or epidermal window equipped to receive optimal sunlight for photosynthesis. C. rowleyanus copes with its arid environment by creeping horizontally, pushing roots into the soil, and forming a thick green ground cover. As it grows, it seeks shelter from the scalding sun and is often found in rock crevices and beneath trees. Indoors, plants thrive in bright indirect sunlight. They are eye-catching in hanging containers that showcase their trailing vines. Mature dimensions average one to two feet long and wide. However, three-foot lengths are possible under optimal conditions. Small white blossoms with a cinnamon-like fragrance may bloom in the summertime, although this is more likely with outdoor flora. Photo by Forest and Kim Starr, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA. When the flowers set seed, each has a fluffy “pappus,” like an aster or dandelion, that nature’s breezes would readily disperse in outdoor settings. Houseplant flowers are generally unpollinated and the seeds are unlikely to germinate. Does string of pearls sound like a worthy contender for a new or existing succulent collection? Read on for guidance on propagating a plant of your own. How to Grow When choosing a container, check for ample drainage holes. If there is a matching drip tray, great. If not, find an old dish or lid that can catch excess water. Remember to empty it. As succulents have shallow roots, depth is seldom a problem. However, it’s wise to select a pot with a fairly snug fit. A diameter that is one inch wider than the foliage width allows room for the watering can spout. A pot that’s too big may stay wet for such a long time it causes roots to rot. Soil Use a potting medium that is light, airy, and well-draining. One formulated for cacti and succulents meets these specifications and typically has the appropriate slightly acidic pH of about 6.0 that succulents favor. An excellent choice is Tank’s Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix. Tank’s Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix This product is made with coconut husks, compost, and pumice for water retention, drainage, and optimal growth. Tank’s Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix is available from Arbico Organics in packages containing one and a half cubic feet of medium. Remember to set rooted leaf cuttings, stem cuttings, and nursery plants at the same depth they were in their original containers, no deeper than half an inch from the pot rim. Fertilizer Fertilize them with a liquid cactus and succulent food diluted to half strength. Feed monthly throughout the growing season. A product you may like is Dr. Earth® Succulence® Cactus & Succulent Plant Food, 1-1-2 NPK. Dr. Earth Succulence Cactus & Succulent Plant Food This environmentally sound formulation is made from organic supermarket food waste and supports succulent health. Mix one gallon at half strength, or use four pumps of food per gallon of water, to have on hand for biweekly applications. Apply with a watering can. Dr. Earth® Succulence® Cactus & Succulent Plant Food is available from Arbico Organics in 16-ounce pump bottles. Water When you water, take the pot to the sink if possible. Continue to pour water until it runs through the drainage holes. Allow the pot to drain for a few minutes and water again to moisten all air pockets. Empty the drip tray as needed to avoid oversaturating the roots and raising the ambient humidity. Water about once every two weeks or when the soil completely dries out. If you like, purchase a moisture meter to guide you. As discussed, it’s better to err on the side of too dry than too wet. Do not use a mister. Wet leaves are prone to rotting, just like roots. Also, a mister increases the ambient humidity, which is fine for tropical flora but not for a desert succulent. During dormancy, from fall to spring, you’ll find that you only need to water about once a month to keep the soil from completely drying out. Discontinue fertilizer applications during this time, but continue to provide adequate sunlight. Humidity Succulents prefer household humidity between 30 and 50 percent. This is a healthy home range to have because, in addition to supporting desert plant health, it inhibits mold and dust mites, two common allergens. Too much moisture can lead to rotting, whether from poor drainage, overwatering, or excessive humidity. Light Provide your succulent with bright indirect sunlight. An eastern exposure or a distance of five to 10 feet from a sunny south-facing window is ideal. You may find that you need to move the pot during the day to avoid bright direct light that may cause scorching. Caring for string of pearls is easy with a good routine. Mark your calendar or garden planner with the approximate times to water and feed, so you don’t forget. Where to Buy String of pearls is available from various sources, including discount stores and online vendors. String of Pearls The CTS Air Plants Store offers three starter sizes: One 4-inch pot Two 2-inch pots One 6-inch hanging pot Find string of pearls from the CTS Air Plants Store via Amazon now. The variegated string of pearls, C. rowleyanus ‘Variegata,’ is another option. Variegated String of Pearls It has green and white leaves with mottled and striped markings for an even more striking addition to succulent groupings. Variegated foliage may grow slower and be more sensitive to light than green. Find variegated string of pearls now on Amazon, in four-inch pots. Maintenance Even with the best of care, a succulent occasionally requires additional tending. For example, if you are using your plant to make new ones, you may find that the ends of the tendrils branch off to form two or more offshoots instead of a single strand of leaves. If you don’t like this appearance, snip off those you don’t want just below a leaf. You should remove damaged, dead, or leafless stem portions to restore vigor and maintain an attractive appearance. Snip just below a leaf to promote rapid regrowth. If you see dry, brown leaves, you may be underwatering, and/or the location may be too sunny. Evaluate your watering habits and the sun exposure and make adjustments as needed. Oversaturation is likely if the leaves appear shrunken, squishy, and yellow. You may be able to dry a pot out by withholding water, but the damage may be irreversible. If you can, salvage a few good stems or leaves to propagate. And in the event of a pest infestation, which we’ll discuss shortly, prune off badly affected foliage to restore health and visual appeal. To encourage blooming, some folks put their succulents in a cool, dry 55 to 60°F location during winter dormancy to mimic nature and stimulate the process. Another type of care you can provide involves time spent outdoors in the summer. Gradually acclimate plants to the outdoors a few hours each day and avoid scorching direct sunlight. If humidity or rainfall are excessive, return them inside. Fresh air is rejuvenating for indoor flora and may invigorate underperformers. Note that outdoor pollination may produce viable seeds. You can try to collect the little seed wisps before they drift off to sow on the surface of a lightly moistened cactus and succulent potting medium. Keep the medium from drying out completely and place the germinating seeds in bright indirect sunlight. Post-bloom, cut the flower stems as close to the vine as possible without severing it to restore vigor to the foliage and maintain a neat appearance. Lastly, as the foliage grows wider, repot as needed to maintain a snug fit with an inch of room to water. Repot during dormancy to avoid disrupting growth. Propagation There are several ways to start a plant. Seeds are not readily available, as it’s much easier and faster to propagate succulents by taking leaf or stem cuttings and rooting them. We’ll talk a little about the possibility of starting from seed in the pruning and maintenance section below. From a Leaf Choose a plump, unblemished leaf. Use clean shears to snip the leaf from the vine. Remove the short stem or petiole that attached the leaf to the vine. Place the snipped leaf on a paper towel in bright indirect sunlight for about three days to dry and form a callus over the “wound.”  Once the leaf has formed a callus, fill a six-inch seed starter pot three-quarters full of cactus and succulent potting medium. Lightly moisten the medium. Lay the leaf on top, and press it gently to anchor it in the moist medium. Mist the soil as needed to keep it lightly moist but not soggy. Keep the pot in a location with bright indirect sunlight, or use a grow light. Over the next month or so, the leaf will wither as it grows roots and forms new foliage. New growth is evidence of success. From a Stem Cutting An even easier way to start a new plant is with a stem cutting. Here’s how: Cut a four-inch stem from the growing end of a long tendril. Snip off the bottom leaf or leaves to create a bare stem one inch long. Prepare the pot of soil as described above. Insert the bare stem into the prepared medium. Keep the medium lightly moist. Place the pot in bright indirect sunlight or beneath a grow light. New growth should appear in a few weeks. Another way to root a stem cutting is to lay it flat on the surface of the potting medium. Here’s how: Take a four-inch cutting. Lay the cut stem on the moist medium. Press the pearls gently to anchor the stem to the medium. Maintain moisture as described above and provide a bright indirect light source. In addition to rooting in potting medium, you can root a stem cutting in water, as follows: Take the cutting. Bare the bottom inch of the stem, removing any attached foliage. Place the cutting in a small jar or glass filled with one inch of water. For ideal sun exposure, make sure the top of the stem is a little taller than the container. It’s fun if the jar is clear and the roots are visible, so you can observe what’s happening. If you don’t have a friend with vines you can snip, you’ll need to buy a plant. From a Nursery Pot/Transplanting When you purchase C. rowleyanus, it may be a small “start” that’s a few inches tall or a mature specimen. Either way, the time may come when you want to transplant it or a rooted cutting to a new container. The secret to success is maintaining the same depth as in the original container. Succulents are susceptible to rotting, and those planted too deeply are the most vulnerable. When foliage is even with or one-half inch below the pot rim, it’s more likely to thrive and less likely to rot. Once propagated, it’s time to start a good care routine. Pests and Disease While our subject species is not prone to pests or diseases, dry indoor environments may attract aphids and mealybugs. Try to dislodge pests with the kitchen sink sprayer. Follow up with an application of organic insecticidal neem oil. As mentioned, rotting roots are common with oversaturated succulents. It may be best to try to salvage leaf and/or stem cuttings to start over in advanced cases. Best Uses A hanging container that allows vines to cascade around is a striking vessel for showcasing the unusual beaded strands of C. rowleyanus. Use a non-hanging pot atop a pedestal, shelf, or mantel for a fresh, contemporary look. Prune the vines to desired lengths, let them pool around the container, or sweep them to one side for dynamic variations. And finally, mimic nature and let the vines creep over the potting medium in a shallow container, forming a dense mat like a “pavé” floral arrangement – dense and low-profile. Prune wayward tendrils as desired. A note of caution: keep tendrils out of reach of children or pets who may tug on them and topple a pot onto themselves. Dynamic and Decorative I like succulent gardening and fell immediately in love with string of pearls. It pairs well with rosettes of echeveria, ruffles of crassula, and spikes of haworthia, adding a new shape and movement with its spherical foliage and dangling stems. And when a species is also easy to care for and water-wise, it doesn’t take long for me to get on board, and I think you might be ready to join me. Are you ready to add a dynamic string of pearls to your home decor? Will you suspend or display it in a stationary pot atop a shelf or mantel? We’d love to hear about it in the comments section below. If you enjoyed reading this article and want to read about more succulents to grow indoors, we recommend the following: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published June 7th, 2022. Last updated January 6th, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics, the CTS Air Plants Store, and USKC. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

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Curio rowleyanus The string of pearls plant, Curio rowleyanus, is a funky succulent vine with rounded leaves that look like strands of pearls or peas. Formerly classified as Senecio rowleyanus, it is also commonly called string of beads. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Native to South Africa, it’s suited to outdoor cultivation in USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 12 and grows as a houseplant in all regions. And as with many ornamental species, it’s toxic to people and pets, so don’t eat it and wear gloves to protect sensitive skin from contact dermatitis. If you are as intrigued by C. rowleyanus as I am, read on for all you need to know to grow it indoors. Here’s what we’ll cover: Let’s start with a little background. German botanist Herman Jacobsen identified C. rowleyanus in 1968, naming it for famed British plant hunter, botanist, collection curator, and writer Gordon Douglas Rowley. Without their efforts, string of pearls might not be available to home gardeners worldwide today. Quick Look Common name(s): String of pearls Plant type: Succulent vine Hardiness (USDA Zone): 9-12 (outdoors) Native to: South Africa Bloom time / season: Summer Exposure: Full sun to part shade Soil type: Loose, well-draining succulent and cactus soil Soil pH: Around 6.0, slightly acidic Mature size: 1-2 ft wide x 1-2 ft high Best uses: Houseplant, outdoor ground cover, seasonal planter Toxicity: Medium-high Taxonomy Order: Asterales Family: Asteraceae Genus: Curio, formerly Senecio Species: Rowleyanus The pearl-like leaves of our subject species are plump water storage vessels. Unlike some succulents, the stems are not engorged with moisture but are slender and somewhat fragile. Each leaf has a noticeable dark green line that looks like a slit. This is a fenestration or epidermal window equipped to receive optimal sunlight for photosynthesis. C. rowleyanus copes with its arid environment by creeping horizontally, pushing roots into the soil, and forming a thick green ground cover. As it grows, it seeks shelter from the scalding sun and is often found in rock crevices and beneath trees. Indoors, plants thrive in bright indirect sunlight. They are eye-catching in hanging containers that showcase their trailing vines. Mature dimensions average one to two feet long and wide. However, three-foot lengths are possible under optimal conditions. Small white blossoms with a cinnamon-like fragrance may bloom in the summertime, although this is more likely with outdoor flora. Photo by Forest and Kim Starr, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA. When the flowers set seed, each has a fluffy “pappus,” like an aster or dandelion, that nature’s breezes would readily disperse in outdoor settings. Houseplant flowers are generally unpollinated and the seeds are unlikely to germinate. Does string of pearls sound like a worthy contender for a new or existing succulent collection? Read on for guidance on propagating a plant of your own. How to Grow When choosing a container, check for ample drainage holes. If there is a matching drip tray, great. If not, find an old dish or lid that can catch excess water. Remember to empty it. As succulents have shallow roots, depth is seldom a problem. However, it’s wise to select a pot with a fairly snug fit. A diameter that is one inch wider than the foliage width allows room for the watering can spout. A pot that’s too big may stay wet for such a long time it causes roots to rot. Soil Use a potting medium that is light, airy, and well-draining. One formulated for cacti and succulents meets these specifications and typically has the appropriate slightly acidic pH of about 6.0 that succulents favor. An excellent choice is Tank’s Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix. Tank’s Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix This product is made with coconut husks, compost, and pumice for water retention, drainage, and optimal growth. Tank’s Pro Cactus and Succulent Mix is available from Arbico Organics in packages containing one and a half cubic feet of medium. Remember to set rooted leaf cuttings, stem cuttings, and nursery plants at the same depth they were in their original containers, no deeper than half an inch from the pot rim. Fertilizer Fertilize them with a liquid cactus and succulent food diluted to half strength. Feed monthly throughout the growing season. A product you may like is Dr. Earth® Succulence® Cactus & Succulent Plant Food, 1-1-2 NPK. Dr. Earth Succulence Cactus & Succulent Plant Food This environmentally sound formulation is made from organic supermarket food waste and supports succulent health. Mix one gallon at half strength, or use four pumps of food per gallon of water, to have on hand for biweekly applications. Apply with a watering can. Dr. Earth® Succulence® Cactus & Succulent Plant Food is available from Arbico Organics in 16-ounce pump bottles. Water When you water, take the pot to the sink if possible. Continue to pour water until it runs through the drainage holes. Allow the pot to drain for a few minutes and water again to moisten all air pockets. Empty the drip tray as needed to avoid oversaturating the roots and raising the ambient humidity. Water about once every two weeks or when the soil completely dries out. If you like, purchase a moisture meter to guide you. As discussed, it’s better to err on the side of too dry than too wet. Do not use a mister. Wet leaves are prone to rotting, just like roots. Also, a mister increases the ambient humidity, which is fine for tropical flora but not for a desert succulent. During dormancy, from fall to spring, you’ll find that you only need to water about once a month to keep the soil from completely drying out. Discontinue fertilizer applications during this time, but continue to provide adequate sunlight. Humidity Succulents prefer household humidity between 30 and 50 percent. This is a healthy home range to have because, in addition to supporting desert plant health, it inhibits mold and dust mites, two common allergens. Too much moisture can lead to rotting, whether from poor drainage, overwatering, or excessive humidity. Light Provide your succulent with bright indirect sunlight. An eastern exposure or a distance of five to 10 feet from a sunny south-facing window is ideal. You may find that you need to move the pot during the day to avoid bright direct light that may cause scorching. Caring for string of pearls is easy with a good routine. Mark your calendar or garden planner with the approximate times to water and feed, so you don’t forget. Where to Buy String of pearls is available from various sources, including discount stores and online vendors. String of Pearls The CTS Air Plants Store offers three starter sizes: One 4-inch pot Two 2-inch pots One 6-inch hanging pot Find string of pearls from the CTS Air Plants Store via Amazon now. The variegated string of pearls, C. rowleyanus ‘Variegata,’ is another option. Variegated String of Pearls It has green and white leaves with mottled and striped markings for an even more striking addition to succulent groupings. Variegated foliage may grow slower and be more sensitive to light than green. Find variegated string of pearls now on Amazon, in four-inch pots. Maintenance Even with the best of care, a succulent occasionally requires additional tending. For example, if you are using your plant to make new ones, you may find that the ends of the tendrils branch off to form two or more offshoots instead of a single strand of leaves. If you don’t like this appearance, snip off those you don’t want just below a leaf. You should remove damaged, dead, or leafless stem portions to restore vigor and maintain an attractive appearance. Snip just below a leaf to promote rapid regrowth. If you see dry, brown leaves, you may be underwatering, and/or the location may be too sunny. Evaluate your watering habits and the sun exposure and make adjustments as needed. Oversaturation is likely if the leaves appear shrunken, squishy, and yellow. You may be able to dry a pot out by withholding water, but the damage may be irreversible. If you can, salvage a few good stems or leaves to propagate. And in the event of a pest infestation, which we’ll discuss shortly, prune off badly affected foliage to restore health and visual appeal. To encourage blooming, some folks put their succulents in a cool, dry 55 to 60°F location during winter dormancy to mimic nature and stimulate the process. Another type of care you can provide involves time spent outdoors in the summer. Gradually acclimate plants to the outdoors a few hours each day and avoid scorching direct sunlight. If humidity or rainfall are excessive, return them inside. Fresh air is rejuvenating for indoor flora and may invigorate underperformers. Note that outdoor pollination may produce viable seeds. You can try to collect the little seed wisps before they drift off to sow on the surface of a lightly moistened cactus and succulent potting medium. Keep the medium from drying out completely and place the germinating seeds in bright indirect sunlight. Post-bloom, cut the flower stems as close to the vine as possible without severing it to restore vigor to the foliage and maintain a neat appearance. Lastly, as the foliage grows wider, repot as needed to maintain a snug fit with an inch of room to water. Repot during dormancy to avoid disrupting growth. Propagation There are several ways to start a plant. Seeds are not readily available, as it’s much easier and faster to propagate succulents by taking leaf or stem cuttings and rooting them. We’ll talk a little about the possibility of starting from seed in the pruning and maintenance section below. From a Leaf Choose a plump, unblemished leaf. Use clean shears to snip the leaf from the vine. Remove the short stem or petiole that attached the leaf to the vine. Place the snipped leaf on a paper towel in bright indirect sunlight for about three days to dry and form a callus over the “wound.”  Once the leaf has formed a callus, fill a six-inch seed starter pot three-quarters full of cactus and succulent potting medium. Lightly moisten the medium. Lay the leaf on top, and press it gently to anchor it in the moist medium. Mist the soil as needed to keep it lightly moist but not soggy. Keep the pot in a location with bright indirect sunlight, or use a grow light. Over the next month or so, the leaf will wither as it grows roots and forms new foliage. New growth is evidence of success. From a Stem Cutting An even easier way to start a new plant is with a stem cutting. Here’s how: Cut a four-inch stem from the growing end of a long tendril. Snip off the bottom leaf or leaves to create a bare stem one inch long. Prepare the pot of soil as described above. Insert the bare stem into the prepared medium. Keep the medium lightly moist. Place the pot in bright indirect sunlight or beneath a grow light. New growth should appear in a few weeks. Another way to root a stem cutting is to lay it flat on the surface of the potting medium. Here’s how: Take a four-inch cutting. Lay the cut stem on the moist medium. Press the pearls gently to anchor the stem to the medium. Maintain moisture as described above and provide a bright indirect light source. In addition to rooting in potting medium, you can root a stem cutting in water, as follows: Take the cutting. Bare the bottom inch of the stem, removing any attached foliage. Place the cutting in a small jar or glass filled with one inch of water. For ideal sun exposure, make sure the top of the stem is a little taller than the container. It’s fun if the jar is clear and the roots are visible, so you can observe what’s happening. If you don’t have a friend with vines you can snip, you’ll need to buy a plant. From a Nursery Pot/Transplanting When you purchase C. rowleyanus, it may be a small “start” that’s a few inches tall or a mature specimen. Either way, the time may come when you want to transplant it or a rooted cutting to a new container. The secret to success is maintaining the same depth as in the original container. Succulents are susceptible to rotting, and those planted too deeply are the most vulnerable. When foliage is even with or one-half inch below the pot rim, it’s more likely to thrive and less likely to rot. Once propagated, it’s time to start a good care routine. Pests and Disease While our subject species is not prone to pests or diseases, dry indoor environments may attract aphids and mealybugs. Try to dislodge pests with the kitchen sink sprayer. Follow up with an application of organic insecticidal neem oil. As mentioned, rotting roots are common with oversaturated succulents. It may be best to try to salvage leaf and/or stem cuttings to start over in advanced cases. Best Uses A hanging container that allows vines to cascade around is a striking vessel for showcasing the unusual beaded strands of C. rowleyanus. Use a non-hanging pot atop a pedestal, shelf, or mantel for a fresh, contemporary look. Prune the vines to desired lengths, let them pool around the container, or sweep them to one side for dynamic variations. And finally, mimic nature and let the vines creep over the potting medium in a shallow container, forming a dense mat like a “pavé” floral arrangement – dense and low-profile. Prune wayward tendrils as desired. A note of caution: keep tendrils out of reach of children or pets who may tug on them and topple a pot onto themselves. Dynamic and Decorative I like succulent gardening and fell immediately in love with string of pearls. It pairs well with rosettes of echeveria, ruffles of crassula, and spikes of haworthia, adding a new shape and movement with its spherical foliage and dangling stems. And when a species is also easy to care for and water-wise, it doesn’t take long for me to get on board, and I think you might be ready to join me. Are you ready to add a dynamic string of pearls to your home decor? Will you suspend or display it in a stationary pot atop a shelf or mantel? We’d love to hear about it in the comments section below. If you enjoyed reading this article and want to read about more succulents to grow indoors, we recommend the following: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published June 7th, 2022. Last updated January 6th, 2025. Product photos via Arbico Organics, the CTS Air Plants Store, and USKC. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link