#gun rust removal kit

[theroguebanshee]

Removing rust from guns with Rod from Aegis Gun Care// Episode 55 For The Love Of Guns

I had a flood in the studio that left my P320 full of surface rust. I contacted Rod from Aegis, since he has worked on flood guns before, and he walked me through the removal of the surface rust. In this episode, Rod talks about what to do when your gun is exposed to water.  #gun #gunsmith #firearm @TheRogueBanshee You can reach Aegis Gun Care…

[athena-gunpla]

HGUC 1/144 E.F.S.F Mass-Production Locality Specialization Type Mobile Suit RGM-79D "GM Cold Districts Type"

More GMs!!! I had a lot of fun with the old 2001 GM, the new 2023 'The Origin' GM Missile Pod, and the GM Sniper II, so of course I had to continue the collection.

The GM Cold Districts Type is a suit that briefly appears in the opening scene of the OVA "0080: War in the Pocket". It's a pretty basic redesign of the classic GM, with the large star removed from the shield, and extra vents added to the face (resembling the GM Sniper II from the same series) and shoulders, and an antenna added to the back of the head.

This kit in particular is from 2003 and reuses a lot of the moulds from the 2001 GM kit. However, this kit seems to have a lot of drawbacks as well. While the shoulders have been competent redesigned in a manner that resembles more contemporary kits (and makes them much more secure), the actual shoulder joint is a peg directly moulded into the torso rather than being a ball joint or hinged peg like most other kits. This gives the shoulders very limited range of movement.

The kit also has the disappointing old solid plastic beam saber, with the hand itself moulded into the saber hilt as well! This is a really bizzare choice even for 2003, so I discarded the beam sabers that came with the kit and re-used a spare from my Origin RX-78-2 alongside a beam effect, which looks a lot better.

I spent a lot of time detailing this kit. I used the old waterslide decal sheet for the 2001 GM rather than the limited foil stickers that came with the kit. I also tried a weathering method @radiofreemagica told me about where i sponged on black onto the sharp angles and high points, then drybrushed over the top with gunmetal. I also sponged on Vallejo pale brown and light rust in key areas to accentuate the weathered effect.

This was my second time using the Tamiya weathering set D on gunpla as well. I used the orange and blue on the gun to give a heat blueing effect, and the "oil stain" pigment worked great over rust areas to even out the light grey plastic.

I think the overall effect worked especially nicely on the darker torso and shield. I also had to paint the face vents, rear camera, back of the shield, and shoulder vents, as well as the yellow waist V logo and the grey border on the bottom two chest vents, so be aware if you're not a fan of colour correcting kits. Also, as always for UC kits, I did the inside of the booster jets in red.

This kit comes with limited hand options, with a single left open hand, left open fist, and right pistol grip, which was a little disappointing as I'm used to at least one open fist for each hand.

It also comes with a really neat machine gun with a large side magazine, triangular stock, and open bolt detail like a Sten MK II, but with an additional underslung grenade launcher.

Unfortunately the stock placement and large square forearms make posing the gun rather difficult, and there's only really one pose that works.

Overall I had a lot of fun building and weathering this kit, and I think I've really improved in making it look less plasticky. I think it's a great kit to round out anyone's collection, although I can't recommend it to gunpla beginners.

Thanks again to @radiofreemagica for the weathering tips!

[orientedtimesfour]

Baldur's Gate 3 Lae'zel Cosplay Build - Let's go shopping! (1/x)

Hi everyone, trying to be more active on Tumblr since I don't exactly like using Facebook for a cosplay page (I use it more personal, IRL stuff), don't have enough dedicated cosplay images for an independent Instagram, and dislike the disorganized nature of Twitter (more suited for ponderings; also M*sk) so wanted to share my cosplay build here and process. I tried to enter it in the Anime Frontier 2024 contest for the build book, but didn't get selected. :(

Anyways, what a doozy of a costume! Took me about 2 months from July to September and cost me quite a bit of money, but I'm mostly happy with how it came out and sure learned a lot. I'll be posting my total $ spent as I go along along with what I really didn't need and could've saved money by not getting...which is great info for future builds and other crafters.

Been sleeping on BG3 for a while since I didn't think I liked turn based CRPGs, couldn't get into DoS or NWN, but > 900 hours later, I'm still playing the game! Amazing what great voice acting and writing can do for a game. I also platinum'd all 3 games and can't get enough of Faerun. It scratched the itch that was left in the decade long absence of Dragon Age. Anyways, onward to the supply list!

Shopping List

Shopping list prices will be in USD with taxes and shipping not included, rounded up to dollar. I got most stuff from Amazon unless stated otherwise. I didn't include anything that I didn't explicitly buy over the course of making the costume (sewing machine, shears, rulers, hobby knife, safety goggles, brushes, pins, clips, superglue)

Build pattern & guide (PretzlCosplay on Etsy) $24

Ears pattern (ElaynasShop on Etsy) $6

Silver sword of the Astral Plane (3DReplicaShop) $243

The Foamory Cosplay Foam Clay, 300g White (swirls) $18

The Foamory EVA Foam - 2mm 14" x 39" (armor detailing, ears) $15

MEARCOOH 2-Pack EVA Foam , Black 5mm , 35.5" x 59" (armor body, ears) $63

PlaidFX Metallic Flexible Acrylic Paint, 3 oz, Chainmail x 3 (armor body) $30

Plastidip Spray Black x 6 $72

Rust-Oleum 241526 Comfort Grip (my hands hurt) $12

Rustoleum metallic black spray paint $16

3M P100/OV Respirator 65021 $33

Dap 00271 Weldwood Contact Cement $16

Gorilla hot glue gun $28

BRIGHTFROM Condiment Squeeze Bottles 3 pack , 4 oz (contact cement) $7

Smith's CCKS 2-Step Knife Sharpener (for hobby knife) $7

CALZITALY opaque colour tights (S, Olive Green) x 2 $40

Fake acrylic toenails and finger nails $17

Mehron AQ Pro Paint 1.4 oz (Black) $13

Mehron AQ Pro Paint 1.4 oz (Olive) $14

Mehron spirit gum & remover$13

Epic Cosplay Scylla wig in light brown $68

Epic Cosplay 20" Light Brown Wavy Curly Ponytail Clipon $14

Vikings Hair Jewelry $14

Goiple lace front wig tool kit $10

Hair beader tool $6

Amazon essentials two strap buckle sandals $24

Black Paint Pens, 6 Pack 0.7mm $6

Coats and Clark all purpose brown thread $4

Schmetz stretch needles $8

Joanns solid interlock brown knit jersey fabric x 1 yard $18

Joanns brown faux leather fabric x 1 yard $32

Allstarco 24mm Flat Back Acrylic Square Gems - 14 Pieces (Crystal Clear A01) x 3 (for skirt details) $39

Allstarco Red Ruby Assortment - Small Pack, 3.2oz, $14

Allstarco 13mm Red Ruby H103 Round Cabochon - 50 Pieces $10

Allstarco 18mm Red Ruby H103 Round Cabochon - 30 Pieces $12

Allstarco 40x30mm Red Ruby H103 Oval - 4 Pieces (for sword & armor) x 2 $30

Allstarco 25x18mm Red Ruby H103 Oval - 20 Pieces $13

Harbor Freight wire, rotary tool, tack cloth $33

Velcro 24" x 3/4" Tape $4

CDY 1" x 90" brown leather straps x 3 $33

Ximerinf faux brown leather thigh garters $12

Total Cost: $1101

Didn't need :(

Another armor pattern that I just couldn't get to work: $18

Scotch office tape (wouldn't have needed if I didn't waste tape on above pattern $5

Brother Toner, TN660 (wouldn't have needed if I didn't waste ink on above pattern) $61

PlaidFX Metallic Flexible Acrylic Paint, 3 oz, Samurai Sword (not needed since didn't end up shading swirls) $7

Overseas White & Black Paint Pens Paint Markers - Permanent Acrylic Markers 2 Pack $7 (should've just bought the 6 pack from the start)

Cosplay Moldable Air Dry Foam Clay Craft 500g Black (for armor details but kind of cheap quality, flakes and doesn't sand well, vastly overestimated the amount I needed) $16

The Foamory EVA Foam, white 5mm, 14" x 39" , $23 (couldn't just used the mearcooh pack as this was nowhere enough)

Allstarco 5mm Red Ruby H103 Round Cabochon -200 Pieces $10 (didn't need, had some in assortment above)

Mehron Makeup Liquid Latex (30 ml) , $9 (misconstrued as same usage as spirit gum)

SKS foam dowels (didn't use) $37

Proxxon Thermocut 115/E Auto-CAD Hot Wire Cutter (can't get clean cuts vs just sharpening craft knife...) $129

Dritz Sewing gauge $4(lost it...)

Schmetz Leather needles $8 (didn't need)

Schmetz Topstitch needles $8 (didn't need)

Fiskars cutting mat $36 (didn't need, mines was servicable)

Dritz compression gloves (not helpful) $15

Heat gloves, Worbla black 2.0 jumbo sheet x 2 $184 (was gonna cover the foam but got lazy)

Clover Marbled Glass Head Pins (just bought bc pretty) $7

Pinwe brown faux leather body harness $22 (didn't use)

Krylon high gloss top coat, rivet tool, double cap rivets, new sewing gauge, slide buckles (didn't use) $42

Sewing machine replacement bobbin cover, clay tools, nonstick mat $30 (didn't use)

Sewing machine bag, feet, brown elastic $138 (didn't use)

Money I could've saved: $816

[prowaterblasting1]

Gutter Repair: Essential Tips and Tricks for a Well-Maintained Home

Gutters are the unsung heroes of our homes, tirelessly working to keep water away from our foundations, roofs, and walls. However, they often go unnoticed until something goes wrong. Maintaining your gutters is crucial for preventing costly damages and ensuring your home remains in tip-top shape. In this guide, we’ll dive deep into everything you need to know about gutter repair and maintenance.

Understanding Gutter Systems

Types of Gutters

Gutters come in various shapes and sizes, each suited to different types of homes and climates. The most common types include K-style, half-round, and box gutters. K-style gutters are popular for their decorative shape that resembles crown molding, while half-round gutters are often found on historic homes. Box gutters, typically used on commercial buildings, are built into the roof structure.

Materials Used in Gutters

Gutters can be made from several materials, each with its pros and cons. Aluminum is lightweight and rust-resistant, making it a popular choice. Vinyl gutters are affordable and easy to install, but they may not withstand extreme weather conditions as well. Copper gutters are durable and aesthetically pleasing but come with a higher price tag. Steel gutters are strong but prone to rust if not properly maintained.

How Gutters Work

Gutters work by channeling rainwater from the roof to downspouts, directing it away from the foundation of your home. This process prevents water damage, erosion, and basement flooding. Understanding how your gutter system works is the first step to effective maintenance and repair.

Common Gutter Problems

Blockages and Clogs

Leaves, twigs, and other debris can accumulate in your gutters, leading to blockages and clogs. This can cause water to overflow, potentially damaging your roof, walls, and foundation.

Leaks and Holes

Over time, gutters can develop leaks and holes due to wear and tear or physical damage. These leaks can lead to water damage in your home if not addressed promptly.

Sagging Gutters

Sagging gutters occur when the gutter material weakens or the supports fail. This can cause water to pool in certain areas, leading to overflow and damage.

Improper Sloping

Gutters need to be properly sloped to ensure water flows towards the downspouts. Incorrect slope can result in standing water, which may lead to rust and leaks.

Tools and Materials Needed for Gutter Repair

Essential Tools

To effectively gutter repair, you’ll need a few essential tools:

Ladder

Bucket or tarp for debris

Gloves

Gutter scoop or trowel

Garden hose

Caulking gun

Safety Equipment

Safety should always come first. Ensure you have:

Safety goggles

Sturdy gloves

Non-slip shoes

A harness or stabilizer if working on a steep roof

Common Materials

Stock up on materials such as:

Gutter sealant

Patching kits

Replacement hangers

Gutter screws

Step-by-Step Guide to Gutter Cleaning

Safety Precautions

Before starting, ensure your ladder is stable and positioned on level ground. Use a harness if necessary, and always work with a partner if possible.

Removing Debris

Start by removing large debris by hand, placing it in a bucket or on a tarp. Use a gutter scoop or trowel for smaller particles.

Flushing the Gutters

Once the debris is cleared, use a garden hose to flush out any remaining dirt and check for proper water flow. This will also help identify any leaks or clogs in the downspouts.

Fixing Gutter Leaks and Holes

Identifying Leaks

Inspect your gutters during a rainstorm or use a hose to simulate rain. Look for any areas where water is escaping.

Sealing Small Leaks

For small leaks, clean the affected area and apply gutter sealant. Allow it to dry according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Repairing Larger Holes

For larger holes, use a patching kit. Cut a piece of metal flashing to cover the hole, secure it with screws, and seal the edges with gutter sealant.

Addressing Sagging Gutters

Causes of Sagging

Sagging gutters are often caused by inadequate support or accumulated debris. Check the condition of your gutter hangers and the weight of debris in the gutters.

Reinforcing Gutters

Add additional hangers or brackets to provide extra support. Ensure they are spaced no more than 3 feet apart.

Adjusting Hanger Spacing

If your gutters are still sagging, adjust the spacing of the hangers. This might require repositioning existing hangers or adding new ones.

Ensuring Proper Gutter Slope

Checking the Slope

Using a level, check the slope of your gutters. They should drop 1/4 inch for every 10 feet towards the downspout.

Adjusting the Angle

If the slope is incorrect, adjust the hangers or brackets to achieve the proper angle. This might involve lifting one end of the gutter or lowering the other.

Reinstalling Gutters if Necessary

In some cases, it might be easier to remove and reinstall sections of the gutter to correct the slope. Ensure you have the necessary tools and help to do this safely.

Downspout Maintenance

Clearing Blockages

Check downspouts for blockages by running water through them. Use a plumber’s snake or a pressure washer to clear any clogs.

Ensuring Proper Drainage

Make sure downspouts direct water at least 10 feet away from your home. Use extensions if necessary to prevent water from pooling near the foundation.

Installing Downspout Extensions

Downspout extensions can help direct water further away from your home. Install them at the base of the downspout and secure them with screws or clamps.

Preventative Measures for Gutter Health

Regular Inspections

Inspect your gutters at least twice a year, in the spring and fall. Look for signs of damage, clogs, and proper water flow.

Installing Gutter Guards

Gutter guards can help keep debris out of your gutters, reducing the frequency of cleaning. Choose a type that suits your gutter system and local environment.

Trimming Overhanging Trees

Overhanging branches can drop leaves and twigs into your gutters. Trim them back to minimize debris and reduce the risk of damage.

Hiring a Professional vs. DIY

When to Call a Professional

If your gutters are severely damaged, or you’re uncomfortable working at heights, it’s best to hire a professional. They have the experience and tools to handle complex repairs safely.

Benefits of DIY

DIY gutter repair can save you money and give you control over the process. With the right tools and knowledge, many repairs are straightforward and manageable.

Cost Comparison

Professional gutter repairs Services can be costly, but they often come with a warranty. DIY repairs are cheaper upfront but require time and effort. Weigh the pros and cons to decide what’s best for your situation.

Seasonal Gutter Maintenance

Spring Cleaning Tips

Spring is the perfect time to clean your gutters after winter debris has accumulated. Check for damage caused by ice and snow.

Fall Preparation

In the fall, clean your gutters before the first frost. Remove leaves and twigs to prevent blockages during winter storms.

Winterizing Your Gutters

Before winter, ensure your gutters are clear and securely attached. Consider installing heating cables to prevent ice dams in colder climates.

Eco-Friendly Gutter Solutions

Rainwater Harvesting

Consider installing a rain barrel to collect water from your gutters. This water can be used for gardening and other non-potable uses, reducing your water bill and environmental footprint.

Sustainable Materials

Choose gutter materials that are recyclable or made from recycled content. Aluminum and steel gutters can often be recycled at the end of their life cycle.

Green Gutter Maintenance Practices

Use environmentally friendly cleaning products and methods. Avoid harsh chemicals that can harm plants and wildlife.

Conclusion

Maintaining your gutters is essential for protecting your home from water damage. By understanding your gutter system, performing regular maintenance, and addressing issues promptly, you can extend the life of your gutters and ensure they function properly. Whether you choose to tackle repairs yourself or hire a professional, keeping your gutters in good shape will save you time and money in the long run.

Contact Us. Name: Pro Waterblasting Address: 7 Olive Road, Penrose, Auckland 1061, New Zealand Phone: 0800 900 152

[ptwtools]

PTW Tools: Empowering Australian Auto Professionals with Steering Rack Boot Replacement Solutions

For automotive professionals in Australia, maintaining peak performance and safety requires a commitment to quality tools and parts. At PTW Tools, we understand the importance of having the right equipment for the job, especially when it comes to critical repairs like steering rack boot replacement.

Steering Rack Boots: The Silent Guardians of Steering Performance

Steering rack boots are seemingly simple components, but they play a vital role in protecting the integrity of your vehicle's steering system. These accordion-like boots shield the inner tie rod ends and ball joints from dust, dirt, and moisture. When damaged, they can lead to a cascade of problems:

Contamination: Exposed tie rods and ball joints become susceptible to dirt, debris, and even road salt. This can lead to premature wear and tear, impacting steering performance and potentially causing component failure.

Corrosion: Moisture infiltration can lead to rust and corrosion, further accelerating wear and tear on the steering components.

Steering Issues: Worn or damaged tie rods and ball joints can manifest in several ways, including loose steering, increased steering play, and vibrations in the steering wheel.

Steering Rack Boot Replacement: A Preventative Maintenance Essential

Steering rack boot replacement is a crucial preventative maintenance task. By proactively replacing damaged boots, automotive professionals can:

Extend Steering System Lifespan: Protecting internal components from contaminants significantly extends the life of the tie rods, ball joints, and ultimately, the entire steering system.

Enhance Steering Performance: A healthy steering system translates to a more responsive and precise driving experience.

Improve Safety: Deteriorated steering components compromise your vehicle's ability to handle properly, increasing the risk of accidents.

PTW Tools: Your One-Stop Shop for Steering Rack Boot Replacement Solutions

At PTW Tools, we offer a comprehensive range of professional-grade tools and parts to empower Australian auto professionals to tackle steering rack boot replacements efficiently and effectively:

STRETCH Steering Rack Boots (Rakboots): Our innovative Rakboots are a game-changer for steering rack boot replacement. These specially designed boots stretch, eliminating the need to detach the tie rod end, saving time and simplifying the repair process.

CV Joint & Steering Rack Boot Kits: We offer complete kits containing all the necessary components for a successful steering rack boot replacement, including boots, clamps, grease, and installation tools.

High-Quality Tools: Our selection of tools includes everything from tie rod separators and boot removal kits to grease guns and general mechanic tools, ensuring you have the right equipment for the job.

The PTW Tools Advantage for Australian Auto Professionals

We understand the unique needs of Australian automotive workshops. Here's what sets PTW Tools apart:

Focus on Quality: We only source and supply premium-quality tools and parts from trusted brands, ensuring reliability and durability.

Extensive Product Range: From steering rack boot solutions to a vast selection of general automotive repair tools, we have everything you need under one roof.

Exceptional Customer Service: Our dedicated team is passionate about automotive repair and committed to providing expert advice and support to our customers.

Beyond Replacement: PTW Tools Empowers Your Workshop

PTW Tools goes beyond just providing tools and parts. We empower Australian auto professionals with valuable resources:

Technical Support: Our team is available to answer your technical questions and guide you through any challenges you might face during steering rack boot replacement or other repairs.

Training and Workshops: We offer ongoing training and workshops to keep you updated on the latest tools and techniques in automotive repair.

Invest in Efficiency and Quality with PTW Tools

By equipping your workshop with the right tools and parts from PTW Tools, Australian auto professionals can perform steering rack boot replacements efficiently and effectively. Our commitment to quality, extensive product range, and dedicated support ensure your workshop is always prepared to deliver exceptional service.

Contact PTW Tools Today!

Contact PTW Tools today to explore our range of steering rack boot replacement solutions and other automotive repair essentials. Let us help you empower your workshop and deliver superior results for your customers.

Contact- Web - https://ptwtools.com/product/rakboot/ Ph - +61 3 9764 2088 Address - 5-7 Keith Campbell Crt, Scoresby, Victoria, 3179 AUSTRALIA

[breakthroughcleantechnologies]

4 Answers to Frequently Asked Gun-Cleaning Questions

Whether you are new to the world of firearms or have been collecting different models for years, you might have questions about cleaning your guns. Do you need to break out your AR-15 cleaning kit after every trip to the range, or can you wait? What about after a waterfowl hunting trip that exposed your gun to plenty of moisture? What items are necessary for a cleaning kit? Knowing the answers, no matter how experienced you are as a gun enthusiast, can help you keep your firearms in top shooting shape. Here are some common questions related to cleaning firearms and the answers you need to perform proper maintenance.

Do I Have to Clean My Gun After Every Trip to the Range? You’ve just come back from a day at the range where you only fired a few rounds from different guns. Or maybe you’re returning home from firing 500 rounds through one pistol because you are training for a competition. In the first example, you probably don’t need to clean your gun. Doing a couple simple drills with your AR-15 doesn’t mean it needs cleaning. Firing a few hundred rounds, however, means you should probably break out the pistol cleaning kit. The point is, it’s really up to you. If cleaning after every single use, even if it’s just a quick clean, feels like the right choice for you, find the tools you need to make it easy. How Often Should I Clean My Gun? Generally, you want to clean your guns after every few hundred rounds . After all, every round will add to the deposits in the gun, from copper to carbon. This can both decrease accuracy and increase the chances of a malfunction. Make a habit of cleaning your firearm periodically, whether it’s on a schedule or just based on how much you’ve used a specific firearm in the past few weeks. After every few thousand rounds, you will want to get your full cleaning kit out and do a deep clean. What Should I Look for In a Cleaning Kit? First, you need a cleaning kit that is right for your gun. Generally, this means you need the right bore size, but you also might need a specific kit if you have a bolt-action rifle as opposed to an AR-15. You want either a cleaning rope or rod, various rod tips for cleaning and mopping, cleaning patches, and solvent and lube. You can also use a CLP instead, combining a cleaner, lubricant, and protectant all in one convenient product. Should I Clean After Firing in the Rain? Whether you have been in the rain or hunting waterfowl with your favorite shotgun in a marsh, you will want to clean your gun when it’s exposed to moisture. This is a surefire sign to break out the shotgun cleaner when you get home. At the very least, you want to run dry patches through the gun to collect moisture. However, removing it with a cleaner is preferred. Before putting away your shotgun, make sure it is dry. Otherwise, you run the risk of rust and corrosion building up while it is in storage. About Breakthrough Clean Technologies® Are you searching for new products to help clean and maintain your firearms? Look no further than Breakthrough Clean Technologies®. From a pistol cleaning kit to a shotgun cleaner you can trust, the brand’s firearm cleaning products are sure to be your go-to choice for your entire collection. Breakthrough Clean Technologies® offers odorless, non-hazardous, non-toxic, eco-friendly, and non-staining products that eliminate more contaminants than other leading brands. Firearms maintenance is easy with Breakthrough Clean Technologies®, all thanks to their collection of lubricants, solvents, and even an All-In-One gun cleaner CLP. Don’t settle for brands that smell terrible and don’t get the job done. With Breakthrough Clean Technologies®, The Difference Is Clear™. Find all the cleaning supplies and tools you need for your firearms at https://www.breakthroughclean.com/ Original Source: https://bit.ly/3zdW7P2

[igoldenlaser]

3 in 1 Handheld Laser Welding Machine for Stainless Steel, Aluminum

The Laser Welding, Cleaning, Cutting Machine is a 3-in-1 laser system equipped with a handheld laser gun that enables metal cutting and welding, and cleans rust, paint, resin, coating, oil, stains. It is small in size, light in weight, and easy to move. Operators with no operating experience can use it normally after learning for a few hours. Reliable, stable and durable, it has passed a number of strict industry tests to provide safe and efficient laser equipment for every customer.

Three-in-one handheld laser cleaning, welding, and cutting machines are widely used in manufacturing, automobiles, shipbuilding, batteries, aerospace, kitchen utensils, shelves, elevators, guardrails, distribution boxes, ovens, metal furniture, biomedicine, powder metallurgy, jewelry , electronics, hardware, optical communications, sensors, auto parts, porcelain teeth, glasses, solar energy, precision parts manufacturing and other industries.

With a laser welding torch, it is a laser welding machine that can weld aluminum, stainless steel, titanium, gold, silver, copper, nickel, chromium and other metals or alloys, and can also be applied to various welding metals between different materials , such as titanium-gold, copper-brass, nickel-copper, titanium-molybdenum, etc.

With a laser cleaning gun, it is a laser cleaning machine that can remove rust, resin, coating, oil, stains, paint, and dirt. It is suitable for surface treatment of metal and some non-metal materials, which can effectively reduce machine maintenance costs. Improve industrial cleaning effect.

With a laser cutting gun, it is a handheld laser cutting machine suitable for cutting various metal sheets and pipes.

3 in 1 Handheld Laser Welding Machine Features&Advantage

Versatile, flexible and convenient

As a laser cleaning machine, it is an environmentally friendly cleaning method. The cleaning process does not require any chemicals and cleaning solutions. The waste after cleaning is basically a small solid powder that is easy to store or recycle, which can easily solve the problem of environmental pollution caused by chemical cleaning.

As a laser welding machine, the welding seam is smooth and beautiful, without grinding, no deformation, no welding scars, and the parts are firmly welded. It can perfectly replace the traditional argon arc welding, electric welding and other processes, and can complete the welding of irregular parts excellently. Save time and increase efficiency.

As a laser cutting machine, the operation is easier than large-scale equipment, and it can cut various types of metal sheets and pipes.

Intelligent Control System

Polymerization control function, humanized design, easy to operate.

Multiple swing modes: Line, Circle, Snowflake, Bullhead, Hot Wheels.

Support the process parameter library, which can realize the rapid storage and recall of cleaning process parameters.

Multi-language support CN, EN, RU, KR, VN, JP.

Real-time monitoring and automatic alarm, safe production and quick troubleshooting.

Free wire feeding equipment

For low carbon steel, stainless steel, aluminum and non-ferrous metals and alloys.

Wire feed speed range 40 – 600 cm/min (15 – 230 ipm).

Wire capacity 0.8, 1.0, 1.2 and 1.6mm (0.035”- 0.063”).

Kit includes wire feed unit, electrical connections, nozzle assembly and software.

Strictly control every component, keep improving 

Strictly control every part, keep improving

Dedicated laser

It adopts the continuous laser , which is stable, efficient, energy-saving, maintenance-free, excellent user experience, and has been verified by the market.

Smart Control Panel

Full touch screen 7′ control panel, optimized operation interface, multi-language support, clear working status, process library design, one-time setting, ready to use.

Scientific wiring

The selection of each component has been scientifically calculated and designed, the layout is reasonable and clear, and it is easy to maintain and troubleshoot.

Air switch

The use of international first-line brands ensures production safety and prolongs service life.

Universal wheel

Oil-resistant, stain-resistant, impact-resistant, reliable and durable, easy to lock and easy to move.

Customer feedback

James helms from UK

This 3-in-1 laser machine left a very good impression on me. After a long wait, finally got it, the quality exceeded expectations. Affordable. The effect is very good whether it is welding, cleaning or cutting. Thank you for the patient guidance of the engineer.

Ismail Alakle from Switzerland

I just got it in 12 days, and I couldn’t wait to try it out. I have to say that I fell in love with all the functions of this machine. It is easy to use, and it has played a big role in training my work operation team. It has a great effect and saves a lot of energy, manpower and financial resources. This is undoubtedly my best investment in 2022.

[prep4tomoro]

Install & Conceal a Wall Safe to Hide and Secure Valuables and Firearms:

A wall safe can be simple to install and a secure way to hide valuables. However, if installed incorrectly, criminals can simply cut out the safe and take it with them. Following these steps will provide a safe and secure location to store valuables and keep firearms from criminals and curious young children. Self-defense firearms must be within easy and quick access when you need them but secure from those who should not have access to them. Regardless of the preferred security option, controlling who has access to your firearms is fundamental to gun safety. Burglars are first and foremost, but think about anyone else who may be in your home or have access to your home.

Locate the safe in a hidden area (closet behind clothes or behind furniture/mirror/painting, etc.)

Select a safe based on budget, size (for the intended location), access control and theft resistance rating.

Choose a safe with water resistance and fire resistance rated for the intended contents.

Buy from a store that specializes in safes to get expert advice.

Fix the safe between wall studs (void of plumbing or electric wiring) for concealment and prevent easy removal.

Depending on the weight of the contents, extra support may be needed beneath the safe.

Resources: Safe Gun Storage - Utah Department of Public Safety Proper Methods to Storing Your Guns 16 Reasons to Own a Gun Safe (and 12 Reasons Not To) Safe Locks: Electronic or Mechanical?:   [Digital vs. Dial]   [Mechanical Push Button]   [Key & High-Tech] Installing a Wall-Mounted Safe:   [Video]   [Article] Locks for Firearms Moisture is bad for firearms, ammunition, gun powder, documents and many non-precious metals. Investing in reusable moisture removers will help prevent rust and damp gun powder and primers. Replace or "recharge" them periodically. [Reference Link]

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[berettagalleryusa]

All You Need To Know About Gun Cleaning Kits

Keeping your firearms in good working condition is essential to ensure they perform at their best when you need them. One of the best ways to maintain your firearms is by using a gun cleaning kit. In this blog, we'll talk about why you should invest in a gun cleaning kit and what you should look for when choosing one.

Why Invest in a Gun Cleaning Kit?

Improved Performance: Regular cleaning and maintenance of your firearms can improve their performance by removing dirt and grime that can affect accuracy and reliability.

Longevity: Regular cleaning and maintenance can extend the lifespan of your firearms by preventing rust and corrosion and reducing wear and tear on internal parts.

Cost-Effective: A high-quality gun cleaning kit is a cost-effective way to maintain your firearms, as it provides all the tools you need in one convenient package.

Convenient: A gun cleaning kit makes it easy to keep your firearms in top condition by providing you with all the tools you need in one place.

What to Look for When Choosing a Gun Cleaning Kit?

Compatibility: Make sure the gun cleaning kit you choose is compatible with the firearms you own. This will ensure that you can effectively clean and maintain your firearms.

Quality: Choose a gun cleaning kit that is made of high-quality materials, such as solid brass and stainless steel, to ensure durability and longevity.

Tools Included: Look for a gun cleaning kit that includes all the tools you need to effectively clean and maintain your firearms, such as cleaning rods, brushes, patches, jags, and solvents.

Ease of Use: Choose a gun cleaning kit that is easy to use, with detailed instructions and diagrams included to help you get started.

Portable: Consider investing in a portable gun cleaning kit if you plan to use it while away from home, such as at the range or while hunting.

At Beretta, They understand the importance of maintaining your firearms, which is why they offer a wide range of high-quality gun cleaning kits. The kits include all the tools you need to effectively clean and maintain your firearms, and are made of solid brass and stainless steel for durability and longevity. Plus, they offer detailed instructions and diagrams to help you get started. Browse the collection today and invest in a gun cleaning kit that will help keep your firearms in top condition.

https://www.beretta.com/en-us/gun-accessories/gun-care/

[prepperjournal]

How to Clean and Take Care of Your Guns

Whether you're a competitive shooter or hunter or simply enjoy going to the shooting range on weekends, taking care of your firearms is essential. You need to get the best gun cleaner and make it a habit to clean your gun regularly. However, one of the biggest mistakes most gun owners make is not taking the time to learn how to clean and take care of their guns properly. In this article, we'll show you how to clean and take care of your guns, so they stay in pristine condition for years to come. Why Clean Your Guns? There are many reasons why you should clean your guns regularly. Here are some of them. - Preventing Corrosion - When you leave your gun in its holster or case, the sweat and oils from your skin can cause corrosion. This is especially true if you live in a humid climate. Over time, this corrosion will damage your gun's finish and eventually eat through the metal, causing it to rust. - Preventing Malfunctions - Dirt, dust, and powder residue can build up in the action of your gun and prevent it from functioning properly. This is especially true for semiautomatic pistols and rifles. If you don't clean your gun regularly, you may find that it starts to jam or misfire. - Improving Accuracy - A dirty gun is an inaccurate gun. The powder residue, lead, and metal shavings that build up in the barrel of your gun can cause the bullets to deviate from their intended path. Therefore, if you want to keep your shooting skills sharp, you must clean your gun regularly. Proper Gun Cleaning Technique Now that we've gone over some of the reasons why you should clean your guns, let's take a look at the proper way to do it. You'll need the following supplies: - A gun cleaning kit - Cleaning solvent - Lubricating oil - A clean rag or paper towel. The Process 1. Disassemble Your Gun https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HovIM4JHb8I This is the first and most important step in cleaning your gun. You need to completely disassemble the gun so that you can access all of the parts that need to be cleaned. There are a few things you should keep in mind when you're disassembling your gun: - Ensure that the gun is unloaded before you start: A fatal accident can occur if you try to disassemble a loaded gun. Therefore, you must check to ensure the gun is unloaded before you begin. - Be familiar with your gun: You should only disassemble the parts of the gun that you're comfortable with. If you're not sure how to disassemble a particular part, consult the owner's manual or take it to a qualified gunsmith. - Be careful with small parts: Small parts like springs and pins can be easily lost. Therefore, it's important to disassemble your gun over a clean surface where you can see all of the parts. 2. Clean the Barrel The barrel is the most important part of the gun to clean because it's where the bullet travels. Therefore, you need to make sure that it's free of any obstructions. To clean the barrel, you'll need a cleaning rod, patch holder, and cleaning patches. First, attach the patch holder to the end of the cleaning rod. Then, dampen a cleaning patch with solvent and insert it into the patch holder. Next, insert the cleaning rod into the barrel and twist it a few times to ensure the patch touches the entire surface of the barrel. Finally, remove the cleaning rod and patch holder from the barrel and dispose of the used patch. 3. Clean the Receiver The receiver is the part of the gun that houses the bolt and firing mechanism. To clean the receiver, you'll need a cleaning brush and cleaning solvent. First, use the cleaning brush to remove any dirt and debris from the receiver. Next, dampen a clean rag with solvent and wipe down the receiver. Finally, use a dry rag to remove any residual solvent from the receiver. 4. Clean the Bolt and Firing Mechanism The bolt and firing mechanism are two of the most important parts of the gun to keep clean. To clean these parts, you'll need a cleaning brush and cleaning solvent. First, use the cleaning brush to remove any dirt and debris from the bolt and firing mechanism. Next, dampen a clean cloth with the cleaning solvent and wipe down these parts of the gun. Finally, use a dry cloth to remove any residue from the solvent. 5. Spray & Clean the Action  The action is the moving part of the gun that loads, cocks, and fires the weapon. To clean the action, you'll need a can of compressed air and cleaning solvent. First, use the compressed air to blow any dirt and debris out of the action. Next, use a rag dampened with solvent to wipe down the action. Finally, use a dry rag to remove any solvent residue from the action. 6. Discard Excess Oil & Rust Excess gunk, oil, and rust can build up on your gun over time. Therefore, it's important to remove these substances from your gun on a regular basis. To remove excess oil and rust, you'll need some supplies. First, get a clean microfiber cloth. You'll also need a good quality gun oil and/or rust preventative. Spray a light amount of oil onto the microfiber cloth. Next, wipe down your gun, paying special attention to areas that are prone to rust, such as the barrel. 7. Inspect the Screws & Bolts Tighten any screws or bolts that have come loose. If a screw is stripped, replace it with a new one. Having loose screws or bolts can cause problems with your gun's performance. 8. Clean the Magazine Remove the magazine from the gun and disassemble it. Clean all of the parts with a microfiber cloth. Pay attention to the feed lips, as they can become bent or damaged over time. Once you're finished cleaning the magazine, reassemble it and put it back in the gun. 9. Test the Gun After you've cleaned and inspected your gun, it's time to test it out. Take it to the range and fire off a few rounds. This will help you make sure that everything is working properly. 10. Store the Gun Properly Once you're finished cleaning and testing your gun, it's time to put it away. Make sure to store it in a safe place, such as a gun safe or lockable cabinet. This will help prevent accidents and keep your gun in good condition. Gun Cleaning Tips Now that you know how to clean your gun, here are a few tips to keep in mind: Never Use Any Steel Object to Clean Your Gun Since you love your gun, you may be tempted to believe that using steel brushes or other objects will clean your gun better. However, this is not the case. In fact, using steel objects can damage your gun's finish and even cause corrosion. Therefore, it's important to only use the tools that are specifically designed for cleaning guns. These tools are made of materials such as nylon and brass, which won't damage your gun. Don't Use Harsh Chemicals You may be tempted to use harsh chemicals to clean your gun, but this is a bad idea. Harsh chemicals can damage the finish on your gun and even cause corrosion. Ensure that you only use gun-specific cleaners and oils. These products are designed to clean your gun without damaging it. Be Careful with Solvents When using solvents, it's important to be careful. First, make sure that the solvent is compatible with the finish on your gun. Second, always test the solvent on a small area of the gun before using it on the entire surface. This will ensure that the solvent won't damage your gun. Use a Cleaning Mat When cleaning your gun, it's important to use a cleaning mat. This will protect your work surface from oil and solvents. It will also help keep small parts from getting lost. Ensure you clean the cleaning mat often, as gunk and dirt can build up on it over time. Sale TekMat Ultra 44 - AR-15 -Gun Cleaning Mat, Black, One Size - the soft thermoplastic fiber surface ensures your gun doesn’t get scratched - extra thick, .25” vulcanized rubber will protect your work surface and prevent the mat from sliding - keeps harmful chemicals, oil and dirt from penetrating down to your desk, bench or work area - oversized design gives you plenty of room to disassemble your handgun and to clean it without having to move parts all over - water-resistant, scratch proof, fade and oil resistant dye-sublimation printing $23.99 Buy on Amazon Invest in a Gun Cleaning Kit A gun cleaning kit is a great investment. These kits contain all the supplies you need to clean your gun, including brushes, rags, and solvents. They usually come with a storage case, which helps keep everything organized. This is a great option for those who want to ensure they have everything they need to properly clean their gun. Make It Regular Cleaning your gun should be a regular part of your routine. Depending on how often you use your gun, you may need to clean it once a week or once a month. If you live in a humid climate or if you're regularly exposed to salt water, you may need to clean your gun more often. Conclusion Cleaning your gun is an important part of gun ownership. By following the tips in this article, you can ensure that your gun is clean and in good condition. Don't forget that guns are meant for personal protection, so ensure safety at all times. Read the full article

[poorlytunedukulele]

Day 25 - What’s Inside?

December 25, 2954; The Last City, Earth

Cayde set the box on the table with a flourish.  Azra crossed her arms and glared at him.

“Cayde.  I told you-“

“Hup up up!” He waggled a finger.  “I don’t care.”

“I’m not-“

“Don’t.  Care.”

Azra had told everyone that had asked (and a few people who hadn’t) that she was not doing Dawning this year.  She didn’t have time to hunt down presents, not with the Dreadnaught to explore and the Taken War to fight across the whole system.  She didn’t need a bunch of kitschy junk cluttering up her vault.

Unfortunately, it seemed some people were too stubborn to get the memo.  Cayde nudged the box closer, a challenging look in his eye.  “I didn’t get you anything,” Azra complained.

He pantomimed checking his wrist for a watch.  “Oh, what time is it?  It’s… my God, it’s I-don’t-care-o’clock!”  He tapped his imaginary watch and held it to his ear to listen for imaginary ticking.  Azra rolled her eyes.  Cayde sighed and gave up his charade.  “Listen, Jax, I know you’re not the holiday type.  But you deserve a break.  You’ve been running yourself into the ground lately.  I really could not care less about getting something- I’m sure you’d be very thoughtful, but that’s not the point of the holiday.  I got you something because I wanted to.  Now open your gift.  That's an order.”

He nudged the box one last time, sending it another inch closer.  “Plus, don’t you want to know what’s inside?” he taunted.

Dammit.  He had her made.  She pulled the box in front of her with another glare at Cayde.  He looked insufferably smug.

She turned her attention to the package.  It was a middling size and covered in a pale blue paper dusted with silver.  A navy-blue ribbon was tied around it with care.  She thought for a second to shake it and listen to the rattle, but her common sense won out.  Too big a risk of some explosion.  Instead, she eased her belt knife out of its sheath and started carefully slicing through tape.

“You’re supposed to rip it open, Jax,” Cayde said, sounding exasperated.

“The paper’s pretty,” she countered.  She slid the box free and folded the wrapping neatly.  It was a gun case.  She popped the latches.

Her first reaction was visceral rejection.  Inside was a very familiar Requiem sidearm.  It was almost immaculate- new paint, not a speck of rust.  She noted distractedly that cushioned in the foam beside it were a few magazines and an old-school leather holster, but her main attention was riveted to the gun.

She took it from the case with numb fingers.  It had been months since she’d even thought about this weapon, practically years since she’d last touched it- and for good reason.

Azra Jax had gone into the Vault of Glass fully kitted out- sniper rifles, rocket launchers, shotguns, scout rifles- even a sword.  She’d had enough ordinance to take on a Cabal Firebase.  The only gun that had survived was a beaten-up and barely-functional Solar sidearm.  The Requiem hadn’t even been her main energy weapon.  It had been lying around and brought on a whim.

She’d tried to get rid of it afterwards, but something had stopped her.  The armor she’d come out with was dirty and so worn it was falling apart.  The cloak had ended up in tattered rags.  The Requiem had been the one thing she could keep.  A rare bit of sentimentality had stayed her hand.

But she didn’t want reminders of the Vault of Glass and the eternity she’d spent trapped there.  Unable to bring herself to destroy the gun, she’d buried it deep in her vault where she wouldn’t have to look at it.

“Commissioned Banshee for a refurbishment job,” Cayde bragged.  “Kept all the original parts, but it should work like new.”

“Like new, Cayde, I got this originally from the Vanguard before the Great Disaster!  ‘New’ is seven decades out of date.”

“Hey,” Cayde said, offended.  “That gun’s been through a hell of a lot and it’s still kicking.  That makes it top-tier in my book, no matter how battered it got.  Rather have that than some shiny-new model that might fail on you.  It’s proved its worth.”

Azra slipped a magazine in.  Chambered a round.  Flicked on the safety, flicked it off again, cocked the slide and released it.  The motions were the most familiar thing in the world, easy as breathing.

She removed the magazine and ejected the round from the chamber.  The gun was indeed her original one- she could feel her own Light pressed into the metal.  Banshee had miraculously fixed almost every dent and scratch, but there was that tiny deformity in the stock, the pinhole she’d drilled into the sights.

She hadn’t wanted reminders of the Vault.  Holding the gun again hurt.  It brought the fear and despair she’d felt there one step closer.  Horror circled at the edge of her mind, waiting to sink its teeth into her again.

But the resilience and determination she’d forged in the Vault was closer, too.  The Requiem hurt, but it hurt in a good way, like sore muscles after a rough mission.  The pain was a reminder of her strength.  Steeling herself against it brought back good memories, too.

She loaded the gun again, fingers acting without need of conscious thought, and made room for the holster on her belt.  Its weight felt natural there.  And Cayde was right- she’d come out of the Vault broken, too.  But the fact that she was still around was something to be proud of.

“Thanks,” she said roughly.

Cayde put a supportive hand on her back.  “Now go put on that nice suit of yours.  Shiro’s taking both of us out to dinner.”

AO3 Link

[john44545]

Best metal test and best wireless pressure - tips and tricks

Wash under pressure. How do they work? How do I choose a gas, electric or wireless car? What is the difference between a vacuum cleaner, a vacuum cleaner and a vacuum cleaner? Why are there so many different dishes and what do they do? What about PSI and GPM?

In this article, I will answer these and many other questions. In addition, I present my best selections on a variety of test types and types.

The main focus of this article is primarily on “customer points” (mostly electricity) washing machines. These devices have a very high cost and reasonable price, and often take time to use, and some have the same PSI as commercial and professional units, only without labeling (or high quality to to build heavier buildings) sections).

Types of washing machines There are three main types of washing machines.

Fasi kesi afi Connect the power supply to 120 volts and The wireless devices run on batteries, mostly Li-Ion. Each type of washing machine has its advantages and disadvantages, and you may be foolish to try to better manage the pros and cons of choosing the best washing machine that suits your needs. I recommend you use the Pareto rule, asking which machine will do 80% of your work and only 20% of your activity. This should get you off to a good start.

Normal conditions of washing pressure PSI: weight per square inch

This is the amount of energy released from the surface water purifier. Ideally, you want a fire that has the same power to convert one object over another. For example, is PSI enough to remove paint from the house, travel carts in your living room, cement dirt, or dirt and grime in your car? As the PSI rises, the washing pressure intensifies.

GPM - gallon per minute (free flow rate)

Think a little about Niagara Falls, which produces about 440,380,904 gallons per minute. This is a very large number. When all this water falls on the top of the mountain, it falls on the rocks as high as 160 meters and gradually enters the soil. Now imagine the water flowing at the edge of a small natural waterfall. Niagara has few flowing streams and free land.

If I wanted to clean it quickly (or water!), I would use Niagara instead of a spring. Also in the washing machine. If you want to clear the area in a short time, you need a high flow rate or GPM.

Anatomy of the filtering machine This article focuses on purifying cold water. They are usually connected to a water heater where the water temperature is below 1040 degrees Fahrenheit and use hot water but have commercial sanitation agents. It is important not to pour hot water on the cold water machine as this will damage the engine.

Next, let’s talk about the cold washing machine parts.

There is a high pressure water pump. There is a pool of water that connects to the water supply device, usually the pool. Some cordless batteries bring water from a bucket where the hose is installed (or added). The machine is powered by household electricity (120V), a machine or (the newest on the market) lithium-ion battery. The machine can be operated manually (is installed) or can be added units with wheels to balance the workspace. Most devices come in medicine bags or supplier supplies. It has a high pressure range from the water pump to the spray hose ("gun" holder) Typically, a vacuum cleaner is supplied with multiple tubes for different cleaners (usually 00, 150, 250, and 400) and may also contain a vacuum. It can have "turbo" hosting (much later).

It is about heavy load puzzles With the exception of “turbo” nozzles, most cleaning machine vendors on the market today have options that include their bags. Each group has an activity. These include:

00 is a good pencil case that emphasizes weight loss. It is used to build narrow passages that require large water flow. It is also good for removing things like tar, burnt dirt and dirt on the second floor of your home, as well as high surfaces such as grease and shelves. Suitable for removal of material 150 surface. Apply everything from paint to tools and metals from rust to oil / grease. 250 is a great team for cleaning the sides of your home, balconies, floors and streets. Typically, 400 nozzles are used to clean windows, outdoor furniture, cars, boats, recreational vehicles, and garden equipment. Soap soaps are used to disperse chemicals on the floor before washing machines. These leaks are located at the end of the spray tube and cause low pressure soapy. Turbo is about community and turbo speed. In the cycle mode, the flow rate of 00-150 is close to 3000 rpm (rpm). Because the pen and scratch pads rotate at a very high speed, it does not hit (as above) like a flat brush The advantage of a turbo host is that it can cover many areas in a short time, for example, 50% less time. In addition, it can be used to be a common denominator (except for the soap holder), which eliminates the need for four standard nozz.

see here more about it

Use it for the right job Using the wrong puzzle can destroy ready-made paint for important things like ships, cars, and fun games. It is important not to use the power of a spray gun on these items. 400 kits are recommended, but you still need to be careful not to hold the button too tightly in the car, because the transparent jacket (and even the color under the paint) can crack and damage it.

When cleaning a car by force, first and foremost, it helps to remove dirt and grime from the car when using a cleaner that you plan to use in the washing machine. Then use soap to gently wash the soap and dirt.

Also keep in mind that moving signatures to those in good standing (00, 150, and sometimes 250) can damage boards and other slippery surfaces. It is better to use the suggested button for a specific task.

About heavy pipes The size of the container corresponds to the standard size of a 20-meter-tall plastic tube that connects to a plastic tube machine. These pipes usually have a minimum diameter of 1/4 "or 5/16" (internal diameter). The 1/4 inch sensor is typically rated at 3200 PSI. 5/16 engine identification is typically rated from 2700 PSI to 3600 PSI. When buying a vacuum, the company will provide accurate identification based on the maximum vacuum load. When buying an replaceable hose, make sure you purchase the correct ID and PSI hose for your device.

If your garden is short of supplies and needs further cleaning, the answer is long pipe pressure. A good choice is the high pressure Flexilla hose (shown above). These green tea bags are easy (they can be adjusted by wrapping or wrapping the base after spraying) and a 50-meter hose can be held in place, including a warm, long sleeve. However, I found that Flexilla high-pressure washers work well with Greenworks washers (I replaced most of the high-pressure Greenworks washers because they are so thin and easy to roll), Yard Force units and Sun Joe, appear waste.

Yard Force Electric Pressure Test Electrical cleaning If you don’t need expensive commercial units and professionals (and you don’t need many farms and those interested in the scenery), a heavy electric car is a great option.

High quality electric washing machine At the place of the electric washing machine (powered by 120V lithium-ion batteries) we looked at the cleaning machines of the big machines (categorized by customer)

Loss of power, Sun Jo W. Green issues. Data rates range from 500 to 3200 psi. Some had separate puzzles, some had puzzles, and some had one adjustable puzzle for any change beyond the age of 00. 450.

What you need to know about a washing machine buyer These units specialize in cleaning playgrounds, wheelchairs, butcher shops, boats, windows, gardeners, lawns, garden equipment, outdoor furniture, and more. Some parts I tested can remove paint, but only at slow speeds (except for the 3200 PSI Yard Force gas test we reviewed). Washing machines are often more expensive than gas stoves. It can be used safely in a locked room (eg toilet cleaning and garage cleaning). On average, these units can reach PSI 500 to 3,000+. This needs repair. It can be portable (carry or return to arms and wheels). Be quiet about the gas stove. It is now available in wireless models powered by lithium-ion batteries. Use less GPM water compared to commercial and commercial sectors. Do not use the same key components such as businesses or private sectors (this will reduce costs). Clean performance Performance depends largely on GPU data and user speeds. The more time you have the device near the workplace, the more energy it will take from dirt, wounds, paint, and more. As mentioned above, you need to be careful when you do test burushyo different surface installed to cleaning to avoid damage to looga basis subject. The standard format has 4 puzzles (usually 00, 150, 250, 400) and offers many cleaning options. Turbo auo good, but unnecessary. But I found it to be very effective and 50% faster than usual can be cleaned with a small hand. The use of electric washing machines is recommended

Yard Force Impact Wrench (YF1800LR)

This is one of the most non-commercial washing machines I have tried. From an independent call to an electric hose settling to high pressure, efficient cleaning, from weight and weight bearing to small details such as instrument cleaning, the instructions on ergonomic design are easy to understand and follow. All washer components, including infrastructure fans, are fully automated. As the name of the company suggests, the Yard Pressure Washer (YF1800LR) is a power that needs to be considered. I highly recommend it. 5 stars.

Sun Go SPX3000 Electric Pressure Test The Sun Go electric pressure sensor is simple and easy to use, with a clean, easy-to-adjust handle, adjustable steering wheel that simplifies its operation, and is stored on the board in all parts. It does not have the same power as conventional gas, but provides sufficient energy for most operations. 4.8 stars.

Sun Go SPX1501 electric cleaning machine I love this little washing machine. He took me like a wolf in his clothes - a strong pocket despite its small size and a toy-like appearance. Due to the effective pressure of the 1400 psi guide, I put it on the vacuum pump section. But if you’re looking for a standard blog that doesn’t have a lot of bells and whistles, a special package of brakes (no more straps anymore!), Heavy-duty components that connect easily, and a GFCI cable battery, but don’t look no further. Could this be the part you are using to remove the paint from your home? Probably not. But it is very useful for general cleaning work. 4.6 stars.

[breakthroughcleantechnologies]

4 Tips for Long-Term Gun Storage

Whether you are storing an antique gun that still fires or the end of hunting season is approaching, and you won’t be using your rifle for a while, you need to prepare your firearms for long-term storage. There are a few steps to ensure they’re properly stored, and a reliable gun cleaning kit offers everything you need to get the job done. Here are four tips you need to know to keep your firearms from rusting when storing them long-term.

Break It Down The first step is double-checking to make sure your gun is unloaded and breaking it down. At the very least, you should field strip it. This makes it much easier to thoroughly clean major parts. It’s best to break your gun down as much as possible so you have easy access to perform a detailed cleaning. You will want to uncock the gun to relieve any tension in the springs. Remove hammer springs, recoil springs, and firing pin springs. Ensure all the parts that aren’t lubed are dry before returning your gun to storage. Use Gloves You will probably want to add gloves to your rifle cleaning kit, especially if you store your hunting firearms between hunting seasons. This helps prevent getting fingerprint oils on your gun. You want gloves that will still give you the dexterity needed to get the job done but also prevent any dirt, sweat, or oil from getting on the gun. This will also protect your hands from the solvents you use during cleaning. Nothing can be more annoying than traces of gun-cleaning solvents on your hands after you’ve finished the job. Give It a Deep Clean Time to put that gun cleaner CLP to good use. You will want to clean the gun and bore meticulously. Copper, carbon, lead, and plastic attract moisture, which can lead to rust, so it’s essential that you thoroughly clean your gun. You will also need to use a lubricant if you select a solvent. If you are using a CLP, you can apply cleaner, lubricant, and protectant all at the same time. If you have a wooden stock on your gun, consider protecting it with wax, which can help prevent swelling and cracking. You may want to rub in linseed oil prior to waxing. Be sure to let the oil dry first. Gun Safe Accessories If you’re storing your firearms for an extended period of time, you’ll likely store them in a gun safe. If so, there are a few details to keep in mind. Moisture can get trapped in gun safes, so you’ll need a desiccant to ensure the water molecules aren’t attracted to your guns. This moisture could lead to rust and corrosion. Therefore, you can ensure no moisture enters the safe with a few desiccant packets or a rechargeable desiccant device. Make a habit of periodically checking on your guns in the safe to make sure you don’t see signs of rust. Temperature control can also help, whether you’re using a gun safe or a cabinet. About Breakthrough Clean Technologies® Are you searching for new products to help clean and maintain your firearms? Look no further than Breakthrough Clean Technologies®. From a pistol cleaning kit to a shotgun cleaner you can trust, the brand’s firearm cleaning products are sure to be your go-to choice for your entire collection. Breakthrough Clean Technologies® offers odorless, non-hazardous, non-toxic, eco-friendly, and non-staining products that eliminate more contaminants than other leading brands. Firearms maintenance is easy with Breakthrough Clean Technologies®, all thanks to their collection of lubricants, solvents, and even an All-In-One gun cleaner CLP. Don’t settle for brands that smell terrible and don’t get the job done. With Breakthrough Clean Technologies®, The Difference Is Clear™. Discover the cleaning supplies you need for long-term firearm storage at https://www.breakthroughclean.com/ Original Source: https://bit.ly/3nqgB4A

[mikepatt1147]

Bathtub Refinishing: A Step-by-Step Guide

When your bathtub starts showing signs of aging, it's going to combat a dingy appearance and every one of the cleanings within the world can’t revitalize it. There are two options which include replacing the bathtub, which may be extremely expensive, or refinishing it, which is usually much less costly. If you’ve been brooding about tackling this challenge, here may be a step-by-step guide that tells you everything you’ll got to know to require on this do-it-yourself project to reclaim your old bathtub, provides it a face-lift and revitalize its appearance to form it appear as if new.

Refinish or Replace?

While there are some bathtubs on the market today that cost as little as $200, this isn’t where the expense or the effort comes in. the value of hiring professionals like bathtub reglazing fair oaks ca, upwards of $1,000 for labor and materials and unless you’re a carpenter also as a plumber, there's tons of technical expertise to try to the work right. in itself is enough to form it worth simply refinishing the prevailing bathtub if it’s not badly damaged or leaking. the method isn’t as difficult because it may sound and there are some amazing products out there that make it less of a challenge. this is often something which will be accomplished within a day’s time and you don’t get to pay expensive labor costs, but there are a couple of materials you’ll got to devour.

Benefits of refinishing your bathtub

One of the simplest benefits of refinishing your bathtub is that you simply won’t got to put up with having the bath remove of the toilet. The removal process is often messy and it involves removing the old bathtub and therefore the materials that you simply got to remove in many cases and replace. You won’t got to affect the plumbing fixtures, the cement board, or repair any damaged bathroom floor tile or wall materials which may easily happen during the method. Everything stays in situ. you'll also refinish your bathtub in any color that you simply want. You don’t get to stick with the white color unless that's your preference.

What is Bathtub Refinishing?

Bathtub refinishing is additionally called re-glazing or refinishing. It’s tons like painting fingernails with fingernail polish. this is often a cosmetic fix that's applied for bathtubs that are still in reasonable condition with no cracks or leaks. Re-glazing is one among the foremost affordable options, but there also are a couple of downsides that you simply should remember of. you'll got to add a neighborhood that's well ventilated with a lover running and windows open. The substances which are wont to complete this process are often dangerous to inhale so you’ll got to remember of the risks that go alongside the re-glazing process. Although you'll finish the work during a day, you’ll got to make plans to let this room of the house air out afterward to filter out all of the toxic fumes from the refinishing materials and this will take between one and three days so you won’t be ready to use your bathtub afterward until the fumes have cleared and therefore the glaze is correctly set.

The tools and materials you’ll need Before you begin the work, you’ll got to gather together the required tools and materials. decide to have a vacuum available with attachments that allow you to wash up any mess that you simply make as you go. You’ll also got to have paintbrushes or a paint sprayer, whichever you favor to use to use the paint. additionally, have a drop cloth available to attenuate the mess, 400 grit sanding block and to form the work easier an orbital sander is useful. You’ll also need a utility knife, a spackling knife, a caulk gun, wire wool, disposable gloves, and a dust mask or respirator. On the materials side, you’ll got to have masking paper, plastic sheeting or paper, a two-part epoxy filler, degreaser, abrasive cleaner, caulk, and a tub refinishing kit. you ought to even have eye protection available to avoid getting any of the sanded particles in your eyes and screwdrivers to get rid of the hardware on your bathtub.

Step 1: Preparation for bathtub refinishing It’s an honest idea to maneuver everything out of the world where you're getting to work to make an open space. If there are any stands slide them down so you've got many spaces to figure and to arrange your materials and supplies. one among the primary steps within the preparation process is to open any windows so you've got the simplest possible ventilation, and convey a transportable fan inside the toilet , and switch it on so it blows towards the open window for ventilation. If there isn’t a window in your bathroom, leave the door open and open the windows in nearby rooms. It’s best to try to to this project when people aren't near the areas where they will inhale the fumes, particularly young children , the elderly or others who may have respiratory issues because the fumes are often toxic. Also confirm that you simply are wearing protection for your hands, eyes, and a respirator. If there's a ventilation installed in your bathroom, turn it on. If there are people within the home, you'll seal the door and use an open window or ventilation to contain the fumes but you want to wear a respirator.

The next step in preparation is to use your utility knife to chop the caulk faraway from the edges of the bath making both horizontal and vertical cuts. Completely remove the old caulk employing a spatula . If this makes black marks on the bathtub , don’t worry about it because they’re easy to get rid of . in any case of the old caulking has been faraway from the bath , discard it. you want to be sure that each one silicone caulking is faraway from the bath before you begin the re-glazing process. If you can't remove it by hand, you'll purchase a silicone digester which can effectively loosen it for removal.

Protect the encompassing areas Another important step in preparation is to hide the wall or tub enclosure areas that are above, beside the bath paper or plastic, and securing this protective covering with masking paper . are often "> this is often done so you don’t inadvertently spay the finish on walls or surrounding tile because it can be very difficult to get rid of . additionally , now's the time to get rid of any hardware that's on the bath . This includes any metal parts which will not be refinished, like metal plates and therefore the ring that holds the drain within the tub. Set them aside for later.

Step 2: Remove the porcelain glaze The next step within the process is to get rid of the porcelain glaze from the whole bathtub. this is often done by applying the stripper that comes within the bathtub refinishing kit. Most of those solutions are made from acid . The acid dissolves the porcelain glaze and makes it easier to get rid of completely. It services the extra purpose of etching the surface of the bath therefore the new glaze that you simply apply will stick with it better. confirm that each one areas are covered with the stripper because you don’t want to go away any of the old glazes behind. After removing the glaze, wash to acid away to go away a clean finish. Thoroughly dry the bath. If there are any rust spots remaining or bumpy areas, sand them down with the orbital sander or with 400 grit sandpaper and a sanding block. pack up all of the mess that's left behind and confirm that the bath is perfectly clean and dry before you progress on to subsequent step.

Step 3: Apply the glaze You’re now able to complete the subsequent steps for reglazing your bathtub. Before you begin , wipe down the whole surface of the bath with a clean dry tack cloth to select up any insects or dust which will have collected on the bathtub during the drying time. Even one small gnat or dust particle can ruin what would rather be an ideal and delightful finish so be meticulous about this. the primary step in glazing is to spray on a fast-drying epoxy from the refinishing kit. This helps the finishing coats to raised adhere to the surface of the bath and it's a necessary step. Two coats of the epoxy are sprayed on the whole surface of the bathtub to be painted. It dries fast, so you’ll only got to wait a couple of minutes in between the applications. Do your best to form sure that you simply get even coverage altogether areas for the simplest possible results.

Step 4: Apply the finishing coats The fourth step of the bath refinishing process is to use the finishing. this is often a product that's included within the bathtub refinishing or re-glazing kit. it's usually made from polyurethane. you want to apply a complete of 4 coats to the whole bathtub. If you’re employing a sprayer, lookout to use the primary coat evenly over all surfaces of the bathtub . After you’ve applied the primary coat, you’ll got to await it to dry. Information about the drying time are going to be included in your refinishing kit. a number of these finishes are often applied by hand with a paintbrush et al. are during a spray form. Either method will work but you want to apply each coat as evenly as possible. After the primary coat dries, lightly sand the bathtub , then use a clean tack cloth to get rid of any loose particles from the sanding process. this is often a light-weight sanding for the aim of the evening the surface and preparing it for subsequent coat. Repeat the method for the finishing coat with the appliance , drying and sanding two more times. you'll not sand the surface after the fourth coat is applied.

Step 5: Polishing, drying, curing, and putting the hardware back The final step is that the polishing process. After the fourth coat of the finishing product has dried on the bathtub , let it cure for a minimum of 24 hours to let all of the coat's cure and harden. don't activate any water in the least during this point. Although the whole process for refinishing a bathtub can take 4 to six hours there's a curing time that's necessary. While you’re waiting, this is often an honest time to wash the metal hardware for the bath using wire wool to get rid of any mineral buildups from water deposits, then polish it and obtain it ready for re-installation. After the curing time is finished and therefore the final coat of glazing is dry, remove the protective paper or plastic from the walls, caulk round the bottom and edges of the bathtub and let this dry thoroughly and cure. Replace the hardware that you simply previously removed. Then clean the surface of the bathtub with a light cleanser and wipe it down with a clean cloth. The results should be a gorgeous new looking bathtub.

Final thoughts

The process for refinishing a tub isn't rocket science, neither is it particularly difficult. It is, however, a touch dangerous due to the toxic chemicals you’ll use for the project. As long as you observe the required safety measures and follow these steps, you'll safely and successfully restore a tub that has seen better days to its former glory and make it appear as if it’s a brand-new tub otherwise you can hire professionals like bathtub reglazing fair oaks ca. This solution is for porcelain bathtubs that have cosmetic issues like peeling, small pits or chips which may be sanded out easily, or unattractive rust stains. The new finish must be properly cared for as re-glazed bathtubs are still subject to scratching from heavy abrasives, but it should delay for an additional ten to fifteen years.

[the-walking-memelords]

A2 - Chapter 7: Safety Out-Numbered Part 1

Chapter 1 | Chapter 2 | Chapter 3 | Chapter 4 | Chapter 5 | Chapter 6 

Series is rated M

Word Count: 1799

There herd was populated by more than just the dead .

Read it on Ao3!

Read it on Wattpad!

Clementine’s hand found the handle of her machete only for her wrist to be seized by another. Cold fingers gripped her skin as she felt the presence lean in from behind her.

“Shh.” A gravelly voice whispered in her ear.

The hand pulled on the fabric of her shirt trying to turn She obliged, turning to see a person the same height as her. Under the smears of guts and gore, he wore a military green raincoat with the hood pulled up, but through the shadows, she could make out the toothy grin of someone she had never been so happy to see.

‘Willy?’ She mouthed to him with a smile as he reached out his hand to her quickly yet carefully, urging her to take it.

Taking one last look around, she took his hand as she followed him through the herd. Wiping the mix of rainwater and walker blood dripping into her eyes as she followed his careful movements turning into a near sprint as they escaped. Clementine followed around a sharp corner, smacking right into Louis and stumbling backwards.

He caught her before she fell, saving her from stumbling right back into the herd’s view. The young woman barely had time to regain her footing and smile up at him before something else threatened to knock her off her feet.

“Clem!” AJ said as he hugged her tight.

“We found them!”

“Nice of you finally show up at our little party.” Willy joked as he opened a cellar door off the side of the building, moving the squeaky hinges slowly as to not alert the dead.

“Fashionably late as usual.” Louis whispered back.

“Good thing I actually found you guys. Maybe Brody won’t be as pissed about me sneaking off.” WiIly looked back up and his face dropped.

“Who the hell are you?!”

Clementine whipped around to see Eli winded as he caught up. He looked back at Willy quizzically.

“Eli.” He waved awkwardly.

“Long story, let’s just get inside.”

---

“Hey guys, look what I found!” Willy’s voice grew to its usual excessive volume as he grinned ear to ear after the door was latched shut.

As they descended into the dim lighting of the windowless storm shelter, Clem breathed the hot musty air into her lungs. The space was lit with the unsteady light of lanterns whose batteries strained to keep going along with a few flickering candles. 

The stunned faces of her friends greeted her as Clementine stepped out of the shadows with the others in tow.

“Is that them?” A frantic voice broke the silence from a cot near the far wall.

Violet’s good eye squinted in the faint light as an exasperated redhead nearly had to pin her down as she untied a darkly stained cloth from her left shoulder.

“Please sit still, Vi.” Ruby quietly begged.

“Are y’all hurt?”

The smile on her face told them she was happy for their safe return, but the weariness in her eyes said she was nearly at her wit’s end.

“We’re okay.” Clementine smiled as she let out a sigh that felt like a breath she had been holding since they arrived at the empty school.

Hearing Clementine’s voice was enough for Ruby’s efforts to calm the blonde woman to be in vain as she tore away from Ruby’s grip to hug her best friend tight. 

Clementine could smell a tinge of blood as she hugged back tightly. When she finally pulled away, she saw the rip in the stained blue fabric of her shirt, revealing a nasty jagged wound in her flesh held together by small, even stitches. Fresh blood still slowly oozed out of it from her sudden movements.

“Glad you’re not dead.” Was all the injured girl could say before she stumbled back a few feet where Ruby caught her shoulder.

“She lost quite a bit of blood on the way here so she’s a little out of it.” Ruby said as she guided Vi back to the bed.

“I patched her up best I could but my medicine bag is back at the school so we’ve just been makin’ do with that we could scavenge out of here when the walkers showed up.”

“Some old uniform shirts, a few bottles of water I snagged on the way out of the school, and a mostly-looted first aid kit.” Aasim said dissatisfied.

“We also found a few cans of food but it won’t last long.”

Guess this place isn’t even a temporary shelter.

“We wanted to look for you guys but we couldn’t get around the walkers.” He continued.

“This is pretty much the only place we’ve had to rest for long.”

The school was marked so there was no going back yet, and probably not for a while. They could wait until the herd moves on to search the buildings but who knows how long that would take. The occasional boom of thunder along with the constant rapid pittering of the raindrops against the rusted door reminded her that there would be no way for them to camouflage as long as the rain poured.

Looks like we’ll be fighting our way out of here.

“Who the hell is that?”  Mitch stepped forward when he noticed the stranger half-hiding behind Louis.

“I-I’m Eli.” He looked at the floor, knuckles white as he gripped his sleeves with nervousness.

“Hey, It’s alright.” Clementine calmed them, passing the boy a small smile.

“We saved him from the people that invaded the school. He knows stuff about them he can help us avoid them.”

“Does he know why they’re after us?” Aasim questioned, biting his lip.

“We barely got out of there in one piece, and then those assholes jumped us on the bridge.”

Eli only seemed to sink deeper into himself as he tried to pick his words carefully. With all eyes on the new kid, AJ stepped up right next to him.

“It’s okay.” He said with a smile.

“We know you’re not bad, so they will too.”

Eli smiled and shakily relayed what little he knew. The school’s transformation and why he was there. It wasn’t any more than what he had told them before, but it was clear that was all he knew as well.

“I just do what I’m told.” He said.

“I don’t know what’s going to happen. No one ever tells me the ‘why’ just the ‘what’.”

“You sure about this?” Brody said in a barely audible voice.

Clementine nodded in response. There was no way she could leave this kid to try to make it on his own.

“You guys got to the school?” Omar questioned.

“It must’ve been overrun. The herd came at us from all different directions just as Mitch, Brody, and Aasim got back.”

Louis paced with his brow furrowed in anger. The sights they saw of what they’d done to their home after forcing them out had to frustrate him beyond belief.

“These assholes decided to do some renovations.” He let out a short disheartened laugh.

“All the dorms were barred up and filled with walkers. Probably more in the other buildings too, but we got spotted before we saw anything else.”

His words hung in the air as a hopeless silence filled the dark dingy basement. No home, few supplies, and a herd of the dead prowling the area above them. But they were alive. That’s a better outcome than a lot of the other scenarios Clementine had been through on the road. 

Even though no one spoke it was clear that the same thought danced through each of their heads:

“What do we do now?”

“Even if we can’t stay here for very long, these buildings might be our only shot to get supplies for miles.” Clementine paced as she planned.

“If the buildings are at least half-decently secured from the outside the herd shouldn’t have wandered in unprovoked. There's a few different buildings around here. Something’s gotta be left.”

“It’s risky…” Aasim pointed out.

“Who knows what’s locked in there.”

“Everything we do is risky.”

“Fair.”

“Let’s wait and see if the storm lets up.” Louis suggested.

“Check out some buildings quick and be in and out before the walkers even notice us.”

“Where will we go after?” Willy asked softly, uncertainty in his tone.

“When can we go home.”

Can we ever?

Images of the ranch came to mind. Voices of the people around her became drowned out by the distant screams of her memories. 

The blood. 

The fire. 

The bodies falling around her.

The weight of the little boy in her arms before her balance was ripped out from under her as a bullet ripped through her leg.

The day her life and freedom were left in the ashes of the place she called home and replaced with the brutal hell that almost stole what remained of her humanity.

So much blood.

I’m covered in it.

Was this the beginning of history repeating itself? Losing her home once again just to be captured and forced into a war. Clementine suddenly felt far away from the current situation lost in the visions of what may end up being a premonition. 

A gun pointed.

Innocent people screaming.

A bullet.

And her behind the trigger.

Never again…

Never…

I cant…

I’d die before I went back.

She won’t take me again.

“Clem?” A comforting presence appeared at her right.

“Are you alright?”

Clementine opened her eyes, not realizing she had closed them. Louis took her hand with a worried expression in his eyes. She wanted to respond but couldn’t force any coherent sounds from her dried throat. Pain shot up her left leg as she took a step, what remained of it begged to be released from the prosthetic as each step sent an ache down to her bone.

“Let’s get some sleep.” She mumbled out almost slurred before limping to one of the cots and nearly collapsing.

Clementine didn’t have to move to remove it, which was good, because she didn’t have the energy to. Her eyes fell shut as she pushed a deep breath from her lungs.

Louis carefully undid the straps from her thigh and gently removed the wooden leg attachment. She felt his fingers softly graze the crisscrossed scars across her stump, the skin an angry red colour and sensitive.

Louis and Ruby mumbled at the end of her bed something she couldn't comprehend as mental and physical exhaustion overcame her.

The weight of the cot shifted as someone sat down next to her. Louis’ warm hand brushed through her cold, wet curls as he hummed that song we wrote for her the night before the Delta attacked.

Normally, the song meant safety and warmth and love.

But now it brought her a creeping feeling of impending doom.

[yasminsqueendom]

Antique the Vamp Geek Pt1 Ep10

CW: Lots of cussing, anxiety, crying, stress

A/N: Like a lot of stress

W/C: 1856

Hey y’all! It’s story time.

Imma get right into it.

My bitch ass, stick up her ass having, roommate found out I’m a vamp…..and the bitch ratted me out to my school. 

So, rewinding a little bit, I got an email from the nurse’s office “reminding” me that I had exactly one month to submit my status to the office. I thought it was just a routine reminder that was sent to everyone who hadn’t taken it yet. But, then a follow up email came through setting a specific time for me to come down for testing. 

At this point, I’m getting nervous because I know that appointments aren’t required. We all just had a deadline to submit the results. We aren’t even required to get the test done here at the school. So it seems extremely odd to me that they would be harassing me like this. On top of that, I DON’T HAVE TO SUBMIT MY RESULTS SINCE I LIVE OFF CAMPUS. And even if I did, I had until the end of the month to do it.

So, when my afternoon class ends, I go down to the nurse’s office to request a time extension or something. Just anything to buy myself some time. I get down there and there is only one nurse in the office and public safety officer at the door. That set off alarm bells in my mind because there is always a secretary, an assistant, and some student volunteers. It looks way too creepy in here for me. 

The lady looks scared for her life, and I'm already convinced they know what I am. My stomach is in knots and everything and I'm stressed tf out. Like what am I going to do? She damn near jumps out of her seat when I say who I am and why I'm there. 

She pushes this little kit across the counter and says “Open it and follow the directions inside.” I feel myself starting to get pissed because now I can't go into a room for privacy? I can't get a alcohol swab before I stick this needle in my finger or whatever? What the fuck?

So I gently remind her that it is protocol for me to be called back to one of the rooms for privacy. 

THIS BITCH GON SAY IT'S FOR EVERYONE'S SAFETY FOR ME TO DO IT HERE! 

I kindly say that I wouldn't be taking any tests until I get my own room for it. If I have something contagious, it would be safer for everyone if I was somewhere private. Internally, I feel completely unsafe and honestly am convinced that if I come to a back room I might not make it back out again. The public safety monkey outside has me feeling like I'm turning myself in for committing the crime of existing. I start to doubt myself, and I feel my resolve weakening. 

So, she shakily gets up and points down the hall talking about “You can use the last room on the right.”

Ignoring her rudeness, I go down the hall with the kit. I follow the instructions to remove the cap and press it to my finger. It would put you in the mind of blood sugar monitors for diabetic people. I place it in the little baggie that comes with the shit. I go back out to hand it to the nurse over the desk. 

This bitch jumps like I threw a whole grenade at her. I mean all the way, damn near under the desk. Her damn chair hit the file cabinet behind her and everything. It would have been fucking hilarious if it wasn't for my severe terror building up inside me. I was almost numb. 

She says I can go so I just turn around and walked out because fuck this place. 

I barely remember what I did after that. I send some vague email to the professor of my next class about feeling too sick to come in. And then just go back to my place and curl up in a ball on my bedroom floor and sob like a fucking baby. Like snot and shit everywhere. I'm just beyond consolable. 

Eventually, I hear someone moving around out in the main room and I'm immediately paranoid. I crawl over to my bathroom to splash water on my face. I look a hot ass mess in the mirror. I'm frustrated at myself for crying because if I didn't look ghoulish before, I do now. 

Anyway, I ease my door open and see it's gotten dark since I came in. And that's strange to me since both my other roommates need light to see at night. So, if one of them is here, it would certainly be much brighter in the apartment.

I see my super religious roommate's door is open. I peak around her doorway and see her in there trying (and failing miserably) to stuff a backpack full of clothes. Some burly dude is in there with her using his cell phone's flashlight.  

When I tell you I felt heat in my damn scalp. Like, literally I thought I was gonna set something on fire just by touching it. Because I immediately know that everything I have suffered through that day was because of this ugly, naked mole rat looking, “I only buss it open for Jesus” acting, “my shit smell better than yours”  behaving, stick up her ass having ass bitch is trying to run away after she just potentially ended my time as a student. And may have just fucked up my whole world. AND SHE IS TRYING TO RUN??? RUN AWAY FROM THE SITUATION THAT SHE IS CAUSING RIGHT NOW.  

I close my eyes for a brief moment, and switch the lights on. I know it will take them longer to adjust than me. She starts screaming and he grunts like the big ass gollum he is. But he recovers quicker. I know already that any physical motion I make will be interpreted as a threat to these assholes. I just slowly open my eyes and just stare at them. My eyes burn, but I am so numb that I can’t even manage a reaction. He is standing there looking like there isn’t much between his ears (as my grandma would say). But she…...oh this bitch right here…..has the audacity to look like I just pulled a gun on her. Like I was gonna shoot her right then. I guess that’s how I looked. I know that’s how I felt. I never wanted to bite someone so bad. As much as I hate the thought of consuming any part of a creature like her, I wanted to attack. I was feeling reckless.

“Just tell me the truth.” I asked her. And she looks like she is about to piss on herself. I’m hoping she does. I want her to feel humiliated. I want her to hurt. She won’t say anything though, so I repeat myself. “Just tell me that you did it. Tell me that you called in and snitched on me.” 

She is still standing there looking absolutely foolish. But eventually she squeaks out, “I don’t know what you mean.”

Now, I feel cold. Like ice cold. We already run a little cooler, but now I feel a got damn iceberg. And then I feel nothing. 

It is at this precise moment that I hear the key turning in the main room. The Uninfected in front of me can’t hear it. They both clearly want to bolt, but I’m blocking the only safe exit. The fire escape outside of the window is rickety and rusting in places, but they look like they might try it just to get away from the “monster.” 

“Home sweet home.” My other roommate says from the hall. She walks up behind me, and freezes. She can only just see over my shoulder, and she is so close behind me I can feel her body heat. “What’s going on?”

It’s weird, but her body heat starts to thaw me out a little. I feel completely drained. I almost slump over, but I’m still angry enough to keep standing. I slowly back into my roommate, I know there are shadows behind me, swallowing me up as I step backwards. She’s complaining about me bumping into her, but she isn’t strong enough to push me forward, and she clearly doesn’t want to get in between me and the others. 

I reach up and shut the lights off again, and feel the smallest bit of satisfaction from the look of horror on Gollum and Stiff’s faces as they can’t see me anymore. He’s fumbling for his phone for the flashlight, and she is looking like a lost child. I can’t bring myself to care. They look pathetic. 

“Tell me what’s going on right now.” My saint of a roommate whispers in my ear.  I pull her back across the hall into my bedroom and close the door loud enough for the others to hear. I leave the lights off since I don’t need them (she’s used to that by now), and I tell her everything that has happened to me. Even things that haven’t happened yet. All my fears, all my pain pours out of me, and I feel incredibly grateful that I have at least one good friend that I can talk to face to face about everything. 

It made me think about all of my baby vamp listeners who send me emails about how alone they feel. I know it’s hard, but you aren’t alone. We aren’t alone. You are seen. You are heard. You are loved. 

Back to the story, my phone starts buzzing. I look over at it, and hear my roommate gasp. I realize this is the first time that she has seen my face. The light of my phone is illuminating me. Apparently, I was crying while I was talking, so she reaches across and hugs me. Just a sweet, friendly hug of someone being supportive, and kind. 

And then she does something I never thought anyone would do for me. She offers to be my source. I mean, wow. My world is fucking ending, and sometimes I don’t pay my portion of rent on time, and she offers to keep me alive. I am stunned. But, I politely refuse. I don’t want her life to be stained by mine any more than it already is by associating with me. 

I was so distracted by her kindness that I almost forgot what I had just seen on my phone. My father called me...he never calls me. My panic levels instantly soar over 9,000. My eyes go blurry and I can’t figure out what I’m supposed to do. There’s a text message there, too, but I feel too distraught to read it. 

I just put that shit down, rolled over and went to sleep. 

At some point, I woke up and dealt with that shit later.

Anyway, stay safe y’all. Moisturize and hydrate.

Love Tique.