#gfxs tutorial

[aedearly]

hey balu, do you know how to recolor skin / how a coloring psd works for that? like for a character that's pale and not the shade they should be ( cough cough natlan ) asking bc I want to that but idk how

Hiya, anon! I can explain how I personally do it, but here's a huuuuuuge disclaimer: I'm colourblind, so I heavily rely on colour wheel pointers. Throughout this tutorial, you'll see me constantly comparing where the pointer is and trying to use my somewhat limited knowledge of colour theory. I'm sure other creators have other ways to do this that are much simpler and/or more effective; you should look for and check out other tutorials here on Tumblr, YouTube, or Twitter!

Due to the limited previews of images on Tumblr, you can also open the images on new tabs to see more details.

For religious and political reasons, I will not use a Natlan character as an example. Instead, I'll use Candace (also from Genshin Impact) as our muse. Specifically, I will use her character card art image, which can be found on the Genshin Impact fandom wiki. The image quality is not so great, so that's why we'll see some bleeding pixels here and there. Dealing with those is another tutorial altogether. Also, if you meant an absolutely pale character (with littler to no melanin), that would be another tutorial, too. So, I'll be sticking with these examples and explanations here! This can give you a starting point.

In this tutorial, we will go from this before (left) to this after (right):

Also, I'd like to point out that these steps are for this specific picture/character. Though the same logic can be applied to other characters and images, it's imperative to remember, especially when you're starting your editing adventures, that there is no fool-proof and 100% universal PSD. I'm just explaining the logic behind how a colouring PSD works and some of my mental processes behind it.

Please consider reblogging, liking this post, and/or supporting me on ko-fi if this helped you! That way, I can keep bringing you tutorials like this faster and more effectively. ~

Now, let's begin!

First, we must notice that skin colours (even paler ones) are shade variations of yellows and reds. If we check the hex code colour/colour pointer on the colour wheel, we will see that Candace's skin colour is at the intersection between red and yellow, and is on the lighter/less saturated part.

Here, I am deepening/saturating the blues of her clothes by creating a Hue/Saturation layer, changing from Master > Blues and adjusting the Hue and Saturation values. Colour theory basics: opposing colours on the colour wheels will give a more significant idea of contrast; the bluer colours will appear colder, and the warmer colours will appear hotter and, therefore, more saturated.

In this second step, I am creating a Selective Colour layer, focusing on the Reds. I want this to be highly reddish for now, so I'm lowering the Cyans to the minimum values I can. Notice how the colour wheel pointers went down, meaning we are in a redder, more saturated and more precise zone. The darker the skin, the redder its colours will be in pictures.

Thirdly, I am now creating a Colour Balance layer. Since I want to adjust the warmer colours (e.g., Reds), I am adding more reds, magentas, and yellows.

The exact process I did for Candace's clothes, I'll do for her accessories. Her accessories blended too much with her skin tone (hex code-wise and I imagine that for the normal eye, too). So, to make the yellows on her accessories pop and be more different from her skin, I created yet another Hue/Saturation layer and changed from Master > Yellows, altering the Hues, Saturation and Lightness values.

Now that we have the image's primary colours (blues, reds, yellows) separated, it is time to deepen/saturate the reds. So here, I made another Selective Colour layer, also focusing on the Reds. Notice that now I'm also increasing the Cyan values. Why? Because Cyans make the reds look darker, and I want exactly that. So everything will increase in value.

To further deepen these colours, I created a Curves Layer and tweaked each RGB curve. I made the blues lighter; meanwhile, the greens and reds went darker. Again, colour theory! Notice on the colour wheel that her skin is extremely red and saturated. This is precisely what I want. Why? Well...

... Because now, by using a Selective Colour layer again, I can make her skin magentaish. Pure magentas are rare in pictures, even fantasy/2D characters. Generally, you will find variations of purples, pinks or reds, but magentas are more difficult to find. Therefore, they're easier to work with/edit. Even if the character had magenta colours, we could've isolated them beforehand, too. This step guarantees that my PSD will solely focus on her skin tone, basically.

Our final step is to create another Hue/Saturation layer and change the setting from Master > Magentas. We will decrease the Saturation and Lightness values and slide the Hue bar to the right. And now, check the colour wheel: it's a beautiful dark brown! It's popping a lot against the yellows and blues. ~

This is where we started vs where we finished!

So there you have it! A speedy but hopefully informative tutorial on how colouring PSD works and how you can quickly love your characters a bit more when doing edits and graphics for them!

Again, please consider reblogging, liking this post, and/or supporting me on ko-fi if this helped you! That way, I can keep bringing you tutorials like this faster and more effectively. ~

If you have any questions, please let me know!

[cal-kestis]

Hi! I've been asked for a tutorial on my new Google layout, originally seen here and here. So, to make it easy, here are FOUR free templates! All I ask is that you give me proper credit in your caption if you use my template or take inspo from my design. Enjoy! :)

Get the NEW Google templates free via ko-fi! (Donations appreciated but not required <3) Includes PSD templates with pre-made layer masks, shapes, and animations, plus tips for the following designs: – Image search results – Biography – Related searches – Animated "no search results"

Additional resources: – My original animated Google search overlay tutorial & template – Karla Google Font (this is the only font used) – Background via Unsplash

[eddiediaaz]

Hi! Can I ask how you did the double exposure gifs for your merlin set? They're beautiful btw!

heyy, thank you!! of course!

it's actually not very hard, the trick is to find the right shots for this. here's how i did it (reference gifset), under the cut.

for this tutorial i will be: — using photoshop cs5 on windows — assuming you know how to make gifs using the timeline — have basic coloring, sharpening, groups, and layer masks knowledge

I. CHOOSING THE RIGHT SHOTS

the ultimate trick to pull this off is to choose the right image. in order to do the double exposure, you need a silhouette shot that has these:

a defined and dark silhouette with a background that is not too busy

enough contrast between the silhouette and the background

the silhouette should take at least 50% of the space

not too much movement

here are a few examples of why they work and why they won't:

gwen: perfect example since this shot is already quite contrasted with a defined silhouette. there won't be a lot of work needed to make this one work.

merlin: not a great example because even tho there's a somewhat good contrast between him and the background, the silhouette is just too bright, not dark enough.

arthur: another good example, even if there are some bright spots on his face and armor. since he's not moving too much, you can definitely brush some black over him to make his silhouette darker (i'll explain/show later)

morgana: this one could work because the contrast is great, but of course her skintone is very bright against the black clothing. that being said, since the movement is not too bad, it could be possible to brush some black over her and move these layers with keyframes (as mentioned for arthur's example). i haven't tried it tho, but i think it would work well enough.

once you have your silhouette shot, you need another gif for the double exposure. what works best, in my opinion, are:

wide, large shots

shots with no to little camera movement (no pan, zoom, etc), but the subjects in the shot can have little movement of course

pretty cinematography/scenery shots

i find these are easier to find and make it work, it's not as "precise" as with silhouette shots. it's mostly just trial and error to see what works best with the silhouettes.

II. PREPPING THE SILHOUETTE

for the effect to work, we want a silhouette that's dark as possible. i'm gonna use the gwen and arthur shots as examples.

for the gwen gif, i started by sharpening, and then upped the contrast by quite a lot so her silhouette is mostly black, while retaining some nice details. i've used only 3 layers here:

selective color layer: in the blacks tab, playing with the black slider (value: +10)

brightness/contrast layer: added a lot of contrast (+61) and a bit of brightness (+10)

black and white layer: on top, its blending mode set to soft light and at 20% opacity. gives a bit more depth and contrast

then for the arthur example, i've also sharpened it first, and added contrast layers in this order (the skintone looks horrible, but it won't matter soon lol):

levels layer: black slider at 0, grey slider at 0.76, white slider at 104

selective color layer: in the blacks tab, black slider at +10

brightness/contrast layer: brightness at +1-, contrast at +47

black and white layer: on top, its blending mode set to soft light and at 20% opacity. gives a bit more depth and contrast

as you can see, half of his face is still quite bright. to correct that, create a new empty layer and put it between the gif and the coloring layers.

using a really soft brush and the black color, brush some black over his face and body on that new empty layer. you can edit the layer's opacity if you want, i've set mine to 71%. since arthur doesn't move much here, there's no need to keyframe this layer's position. for the morgana example, this is where you'd need to play with keyframes to make it work. here's where i'm at now after this:

you can always edit this layer later if you need, after doing the double exposure blending.

once the silhouette is all ready, you can put all layers in a group and rename it (i've renamed mine silhouette).

III. BLENDING

now the fun part! import the wide/scenery shot in photoshop, then resize it to the same height of your silhouette gif. make sure the gif is a smart object layer, and sharpen it. finally, bring this gif onto the silhouette canvas (by right clicking the smart object > duplicate layer). once you have both gifs onto your canvas, put the wide shot gif layer in a group, and set this group's blending option to screen.

you can then position the wide/scenery gif the way you like it in the canvas. this is how it looks for both examples after i've done that:

if the blending mode screen doesn't give you the best result, so you can play around with other blending modes (such as lighten and linear dodge in these particular cases), but generally speaking, screen is the real mvp here haha.

IV. COLORING

now that the double exposure effect is done, we need to color the gifs to bring them together. i went with simple coloring here, simply enhancing the colors that were already there. just make sure that the coloring layers for each gif are in their respective groups. here's how i've colored both examples:

gwen silhouette group: i added a gradient map layer on top of the contrast layers in black to green and set the blending mode to color

scenery shot group: multiple coloring layers, with a green color fill layer (blending mode set to color), with a layer mask so it only affects the top half of the gif

for the arthur gif, i did something very similar but with warmer colors. i didn't use a gradient map for arthur though:

arthur silhouette group: i made the yellow warmer, closer to orange/red, with a hue/saturation layer, and added more vibrance. didn't feel like it needed a gradient map layer here though.

wide shot group: basic coloring layers to enhance colors from the merlin & daegal shot, and an orange color fill layer set to the color blending mode.

at this point you're pretty much done. just need to add some final touches and typography (if you want).

V. FINAL TOUCHES

a small and completely optional detail, but i wanted to soften the edges of the wide gifs. to do so i've duplicated the smart object gif layer and removed the sharpening filters (right click on smart filter > clear smart filters). put this layer on top of the other smart object layers (but still below the coloring).

then with this same layer still selected, go to filter > blur > gaussian blur... > 10px. this will give you a very blurry gif, but we only want the edges of the canvas to be softer. so add a layer mask to this layer. with a very large and soft brush (mine was at 0% hardness and about 800px size), brush some black onto the layer mask to remove the blur in the middle of the gif.

you can play with this layer's opacity or gaussian blur amount if you want (by double clicking on the gaussian blur smart layer filter). here how both examples look with this gaussian blur layer:

you can also mask some of wide/scenery gifs if you'd prefer, so it shows less outside of the silhouette. just put a layer mask on that whole wide shot group and brush some black or grey on the layer mask. it's what i did for the gwen gif, with a very soft brush and i set the mask density to 72% (i kept the arthur one as is tho):

and that's how i did it! hopefully that was clear enough :)

[leodanbrock]

prompt: something for the silly ol' rat man? [template tutorial insp] [fan vids: ♡ ♡ ♡]

[blkkizzat]

Tutorial: Manga Banners

Basic Manga Text Change/Coloring/GIF creation in PS

Hey, so as promised making a very basic tutorial for making banner gifs in photoshop for fics/drabbles/layouts, etc.

I'm going to keep things super simple here for beginners.

END RESULTS↴ 

(NOTE: This gif I made will be used for an unreleased story of mine so please don't use this exact gif/images but you are free to follow the tutorial to create your own).

All I ask is if you find this helpful to REBLOG! :) No need to credit me.

For this tutorial you will need ↴ 

Photoshop

At least 2 manga panel images (non-transparent*)

Optional: Manga fonts. I mostly use CC Wild words (speech bubbles) & Manga Temple (narrator boxes)

Basic knowledge of photoshop layout/where tools are.

*this tutorial is essentially the same if working with transparency but if you do work with transparency you will need to have knowledge of clipping masks which i do not cover here.

Tutorial ↴ 

(optional) Prepwork: so i didn't think to include this do this but you are going to need to crop and resize your image. make sure the width is either 540 or 1080px. This is the recommended width for pictures in tumblr. Height can be what you want it to be. This is done image > image size (make sure the link-chain is pressed for aspect ratio)

Step 1

This is what you want your setup to look similar to. Delete locked background layer.

Steps 2 & 3

Make a new layer. It might be helpful for beginners to re-name all their layers so instead of "Layer 2" you might name this ⇢ "White fill layer or Text cover up". (doubletap layer name to change it).

Use rectangular marquee to select text you want to change. If you are just replacing a word or two you dont need to white out everything. But you could choose to cover up all if you wish. I just wanted to remove "senpai".

Steps 4 & 5

Use Paint Bucket Tool to fill in selection area with white (make sure the new layer you made is selected when you do this).

Select Text Tool. There is no need to make a new layer as once you are done typing it will become a text layer. I used CC Wild Words bold font for this for emphasis. If you do multiple lines of text use a new text layer for each line.

Step 6 - Optional Step - Highly recommended if you did multiple lines of text.

Rasterize Type by right clicking the layer. This is an optional step. I tend to do it out of habit and rasterizing lets you use the move tool to give you exact px distances between other rasterized elements but nothing we are doing requires this tbh and if you do decide to do it you can't go back and edit text.

If you did multiple text layers you cause space them out evenly using the move tool (zoom into 200%-400% if necessary to get exact pixel distances). Tip: Manga text is centered in the bubble and leaves a good distance away from the edge.

When you are done ctrl/cmd to select all text layers then right click and merge the layers. This is so incase you have to move the text layer for whatever reason they are all on one layer now, evenly spaced and you won't accidentally mess that up.

Step 7

Create an exposure layer (half filled in circle in layer bar for menu). This is important as it can lighten/darken image to make the colors we will add later pop by playing with the sliders for each setting.

Step 8

Apply exposure settings. On the right-hand side there will be 3 slider bars. The screenshot shows my settings but your settings will vary depending on the image. The one that gives the biggest benefit for manga is Gamma Correction which affects the midtones to make them lighter/darker and adds better contrast to the image so it doesn't look as muddy, often in black and white images it is easy for midtones to look muddy. Offset affects mid to dark tones of an image. Exposure affects midtones to highlights to make brighter or darker, overall use this the least. TIP: If you want to make an image brighter or darker you usually want this to apply equally to the overall image so then you would create a brightness/contrast layer instead. most manga images skew muddy and need a midtone and dark adjustment rather than highlights. the better the manga scan images the less adjustments you will need.

Step 9 - Optional

Apply a gradient map (half filled in circle in layer bar for menu). This is optional. a Gradient map adds gradient but preserves the shading in the image so essentially adds a gradient to the shading. I do this in black and white. But if you are happy with how it came out in the exposure phase you don't need to.

Step 10 & 11 -

Apply a gradient (half filled in circle in layer bar for menu). So when you add a gradient there are a ton of preset color combos you can use or you can create your own. I think this one is a preset but can't remember. I like a diagonal gradient from light to dark depending on where the light source on the image is but it is completely up to you. I tend to set the gradient angles near these 4 settings: -145, -45, 45, 145 depending on what corner I want the lighter part in.

One thing to note is brighter colors work better with a darker background. Lighter backgrounds can get washed out. One you add this as you can see it will be solid color.

*note* once this layer is applied any edits such as moving text, etc. around you want to do to the lower layers beneath it click the "eye" button to hide the gradient (same for the map) or there's a good chance it will move the gradient layers around and not the layer you want.

Change layer blending mode. By default it's set to "normal". You can play around with these. Depending on the effect you want and whether the image has darker or lighter colors will decide the blending mode. My typical blending modes are screen, overlay, hard light, vivid light or pin light. You can duplicate this gradient layer and play around with multiple settings and opacities to create something you like.

Step 12 - Optional

Add a Brightness/Contrast layer (half filled in circle in layer bar for menu). Brightness/Contrast on this step will look wildly different than if you added it right after the exposure step. It's not necessary but if you want more overall contrast or brightness then you can add it.

You can see my settings below on the sliders on the right-hand side.

Step 13

Create new layer for highlights. (also good check point to see how your layers are organized).

Step 14

Select the brush tool and ensure brush settings are a soft round brush with a hardness of 0% for the highlight effect. (if you click the brush image you can see my settings better)

Step 15

Select the dropper tool and pick a color from the gradient image. I usually pick the darkest colors available as it will have the best dodge effect for highlights. Since this is pink/redish I only have one highlight color but if you were doing a green/blue gradient you would pick the darkest from both. (ignore the purple here its not being used)

Step 16

Create highlights with brush tool. Do a few tests placements randomly around the image for positioning and then swap the blend mode to either color dodge or linear dodge. I usually do color dodge. You will get awesome highlights like below. You can play with the sizing of the brushes and opacity to decrease the effect.

Step 17 & 18

Export as PNG. Do this even if you want to make a gif as I always recommend a clean canvas for gif making. If you want to be done here and don't want a gif thats fine too. File > Export > Quick Export as PNG (do not save as jpeg/gif you will lose image quality).

Repeat for second image. You don't need to open a new file unless it helps you to not get confused. You can just make a new layer and paste your new image into that layer (if you just right click copy the file in the window/finder folder you can directly paste it into a layer in PS) and use the transform tool to resize. However you can totally just open the image in PS. The benefit of same canvas is you save yourself some time as you can just duplicate gradient layers/adjustment layers and move them. But this is kinda more advanced so if you aren't comfortable with photoshop just make a new image.

Step 18-19

Create new file/open one of the PNG in PS (more advanced can just create new layer, select image, then copy > copy merged and paste on new file for each. Otherwise open one file, create a new layer then copy the other file. The bottom later will be the first image in the gif.

Create Frame Animation on the timeline window. (if the timeline window does not appear then window > timeline) *note* if this is your first time working with the window it may be set to "create video timeline", if that's the case create it then from the frame menu (in step 23 theres an example of where this is) select "convert to frame animation".

If done correctly your setup should look like the below with two images. One for each layer and one for each frame.

MAKE SURE PROPAGATE FRAME ONE BOX IS CHECKED IN THE LAYERS WINDOW.

lmao, not to be dramatic but this ensures most effects you would add to frame 1 (which corresponds to layer 1) is applied to all frames. I'm not too sure its super vital for this super basic gif I'm showing you but its better to get in the habit of always having it checked. otherwise it will fuck you over later down the line in my next tutorial where I show how to add frames to gifs.

Step 20

Select both layers, then select both frames (ctrl/cmd) and finally select tween from the timeline window. It is the multi-faded dot option on the bar below.

Step 21

Add Frames to Tween. Tween is the fading effect adding more frames is the longer the fading effect is. I added 20 for this step, you can play around and add more or less.

Once you do that you can see 20 new frames being added onto the timeline. This will not automatically add new layers, this is fine. Frames and layers don't need to be a 1-to-1. (Another reason why propagate frame 1 needs to be checked as you can still adjust those layerless frames by adjusting frame 1's layer)

Step 22

Adding delays. Automatically the delay on every frame is at zero. But especially if you have text you want people to be able to read that so you need to add in a delay. Your delays can be in increments of 1/10th of a second. I add a 1 second delay to the first frame only.

Step 23

Select and Copy the first frame and then select the last frame and Paste. A paste window will appear in this case we want to paste after selection. I circled where the menu for frames are. (sorry used a different gif as an example so ignore everything but the circled menu)

Step 24

Adding additional delays. I add a 1 second delay to the last two frames.

Step 25

Add more Tween I added 5 frames this time as we want the transition to be much quicker to reset the image. You can see frame 23 in the previous step are now frame 28.

You can add more images in than 2 and follow these steps to add tweening.

DONE! Now to save.

Step 26

Export your gif. File > Export > Save for Web (Legacy) and the screen below should pop up. Here are the settings I use for gifs. You can play around with it but I really wouldn't lol. (again ignore image size, this is from a different gif) it will also tell you how big in file weight your gif is. This isn't something you have to worry about for something simple but the bigger the image size and the more transitions/images you use the more frames you will have. Reducing image size (make sure chain link is on like in the below) will take off more sizing then removing frames will and I would recommend that. But tumblr allows 10MB MAX per gif so just something to keep in mind.

Let me know how this was! If you have questions just drop me an ask. ❤

[hongtonie]

i finally hit 1k!!! (no thanks to tumblr glitching my follower count) i'm really glad so many people like the little images i make☺️ to say thank you i prepared a little something! i've put together all the overlays i have downloaded that i use in my gfx as well as the fonts i've collected over the past couple years (and an updated giffing "tutorial"!) love u all hope november is kind to you<33

for starters here is the mega folder with all of my fonts and pngs! below is my semi-updated giffing process along with some of my actions<3

my process is pretty much the same as my old tutorial but now i've changed how i export gifs! my basic process is outlined in the gif below and and i've added 3 of my actions i use almost every time i gif in this google drive! (explanations below) :]

so after i know what clip i want, i put it into vapoursynth (download tutorial) and once that's saved i screencap it. what i do for screencapping is open the mov in mplayer osx extended and hold down shift+command+s but i know there's way easier ways to do it that i haven't figured out yet lol (tutorial i just found here)

once the screencaps are all on my desktop i delete any extras on either end of the clip i want and put them in a folder just so it's easier to load them in to photoshop. to do that, on the home page of photoshop go to file -> scripts -> load files into stack, then from that menu browse -> select all the screencaps you want to use for the gif and click open then ok

after they're all loaded into photoshop this is where i use my first action which just shortcuts all the way to the sharpening being done. once that's done i go to image -> mode -> 16 bits/contrast. this can help if the background is super pixely or anything like that. then i mess around with sharpening if i feel like it's too much. usually i'll change the opacity of the second sharpen layer to 50 and/or change the settings of the first sharpen layer like 200 to 150 or 0.3 to 0.2, whatever i feel like looks best. something i've also learned over the years is that sometimes you let noise do the heavy lifting and don't worry about making it look too sharp. if the gif is still a little bit unsharpened (?), the noise will make it look fine

then i do coloring which is the fun part! like i said, my process is more or less the same as my old tutorial so i'll just skip over that part and if you want more details feel free to check that one out. once i'm done with that i combine it all to a smart object, add noise (usually 1-1.5 these days), and then use my second action!

after the second action does its thing, i select all frames and set the rate. i usually set it to 0.04 for youtube videos and 0.02 or 0.03 for ts files. then, because vs leaves me with duplicate frames, i run my action for duplicates which selects all of the unwanted frames and then go to the hamburger menu just above the timeline -> delete frames. then it's ready to be saved!

[seonghwacore]

🏍 AKIRA-ISH MOTION BLURRED LIGHT EFFECT (or the cooler name, ✨Rear Sync Flash effect✨)

as requested for my carrot kid @renjunniez (and everyone) <3

⁕ Tool: Photoshop 2021 (PS)

⁕ GUIDE:

1. Open/place your picture of your choice on PS. For this set, I took a screenshot from the MV using VLC. Didn't bother to take it from VS.

You need a black & white picture with dense shadow/black shade and focused highlight to achieve this effect. If your base is as colorful and bright as a 4 year old's imagination about the world of unicorns, you gotta need some adjustments. The effect still appears but give a totally different vibe. I put an example at the end of the tutorial.

2. Then, do the basic sharpening and resizing for the base layer. I crop them to 540x540px.

3. Copy the base layer and delete the sharpening smart filters. Double click the layer to open Layer Style panel.

On General Blending, change the Blend Mode to Lighten. On Advanced Blending, uncheck the Green (G) and Blue (B) channels, so you'll be left with Red (R) channel. And then, move the picture to the right because you want the red shadow to "trail" Seonghwa (your subject)'s movement.

Your pic will look somehow like this:

4. Go to Filter > Blur Gallery > Path Blur. The default option is usually Basic Blur. Change the option to Rear Sync Flash.

Now, you have to decide the direction of the "red trail". This is quite tricky because it's better if you apply the blur with the subject's real movement in mind. In this example, I imagined Hwa was swaying to the left in slow motion as he restrained from being dragged away. So, my path's starting point is from the left.

Once you've decided, click on a random point to pin a starting point and stretch the arrow to your desirable distance. You can also curve the arrow to give a more, well, fancy direction.

I set the Speed to 146% and the Taper to 17%. Uncheck everything else.

*Hover over the word "Speed" and "Taper" to know what it'll do to your pic

**If you wanna know more about Rear Sync or Rear Curtain Flash in photography [x]

5. After this part, basically you're free to do whatever with your gfx. These steps below are OPTIONAL.

5-a. First, I adjusted the lighting and contrast.

5-b. Then, I added text.

5-c. After that, I placed a lined texture. I set the blending to Overlay with 82% Opacity and gave it a Basic Blur effect from Path Blur. I definitely just fuckin around with this step and found out that it changed the opacity of the lines depending on where it's applied on: shadow, midtone, or highlight parts.

5-d. Lastly, add grains texture

Et voila! You'll get this effect 🤩

Now, if you have a bright, colorful pic as the base. For example, I use this The Real Hwa dontevenaskmehowmanypicsofhwaihaveinmyputer. The "highlight" part (the sky) is surrounding the "shadow" (Hwa in hanbok). Then, I applied the same effect.

Still slay but definitely not as "dramatic" and intense as the dark mode version. Kinda lose the purpose of the trail to me. HOWEVER. I encourage you to fuck around and improvise 👍

Hope this helps!

[kitconnor]

https://www.tumblr.com/kitconnor/738913211394473984/usergif-new-year-new-fonts-day-1-layer absolutely loved this set 🩷 how did you make the second gif where it goes from color to b&w?

hello, and thank u !! it's a pretty basic process to follow but it can be effective if you're trying to add depth to something.

this is the gif, but this is the effect we're hoping to achieve:

i'm not going to cover every part of the process (ie. colouring, cropping, setting up your gif and blending skills) simply because i'm just trying to achieve the colour to b&w effect ! if you want a guide on anything else, please feel free to ask :)

please note this will guide you through timeline and not frames !

start by doing your basic crop and colouring and then duplicate one gif onto the other for blending. here you can see i'm about to use the layer mask + brush tool to achieve a smooth blend. the top layer (inej) is set on screen.

so after getting everything into position, i'll add a layer mask and then use both the gradient tool (set to black) and the brush tool (also set to black) to get the right blend.

(note: i went back and re-cropped my kaz layer and reordered my layers. try and blend on empty space and not overtop of the subjects faces !)

depending on which gif you choose for b&w, you may need to clip the black and white layer. for instance in the gif that was in the set:

lucy gray is the top layer, and i only needed to clip it to her. to get a clipping mask, right click on a layer and there should be an option called 'create clipping mask', like below !

but back to the main guide 😭 now that i've blended and decided which gif will go to b&w, add that layer above whichever gif you chose. kaz is the bottom layer in this gif so i don't need to worry about the clipping mask.

at this point now (yes i've added different layers here and there, but that's natural) you need to move your b&w to whatever point you need it to come in. however, don't move it to the very end. somewhere around halfway or 3/4 will work best.

after moving the b&w layer, it comes in halfway, but it's clunky. to fix that you'll use a fade transition. fade transitions are found in this little button (a half grey half white box cut diagonally)

then you'll click and drag the fade transition over the b&w layer and drag on the fade transition (NOT the gif) to alter the duration. that's the transition itself below:

and then it looks like this :)

it might take a few tries to get it into the right timing where it's not too quick or too slow. also note that the transition bumps up the gif size, so keep the gif around 30-40 frames if you're cropping at 540x540 like me !

[indiweb]

hi!! if i may ask, how did you edit the manga header so beautifully in your 'obsessing over what's theirs?' fic? i apologize, and you totally don't have to but i kinda fell in love . . . 😳

i specifically use alight motion for my edits ! but i know a mutual of mine does it a different way which makes it look the exact same , pero like you just find a manga screen cap from either the hashtag here on tumblr ; “#mangacaps” or going to accounts similar to @/stepghost. and then size it to your liking ( but remember that tumblr is very tricky with showing you in tags for certain sizes so test a few of em out!! and then you wanna import it into picsart and go to effects, then color gradient! choose whatever two colors you want and then slide the blend option over to color burn and it should blend into the darker area of your header!

OR you can download ibis paint x and import your header there , choose the two colors you want , or just singular color and then go to the blend mode and put it on lighter color! cause that’s what i do 😋🤞 and then you can save that header, re import it into the file and then put a gausian blur on it, tweak the amount of blur and the change the blend to screen, then mess around with the opacity!! i do the gausian blur for mine cus it looks cute and sometimes blurs inappropriate parts of the picture that would normally get you flagged on tumblr !

[shinsources]

So while I'm working on commissions I've been slowly working on my "website" for my author blog. I've also been updating my FFN accounts as well for when I finally get around to posting fanfics onto them. Not only that but I need to get things figured out on how I'm going to price commissions for those who are interested in coming to me for writing shenanigans. :)

[spicygirlies]

｡⁠.ﾟ⁠+⁠ did you hear about the girl who lives in delusion?

gfx blog

side blog

[cal-kestis]

HOW TO: Do A Crystallize Gif Transition

Hi! I was asked to explain how I did the transition effect in this gifset, so here's a quick tutorial! Disclaimer: This tutorial assumes you have an intermediate understanding of gif-making in Photoshop using Video Timeline and requires the use of keyframes.

PHASE 1: THE GIFS

1.1 – Determine how many frames you need. Since you need at least 2 scenes for a transition, consider limiting the amount of frames you'll use per scene. For a transition between 2 scenes that's 540x540px, I would recommend no more than 30 frames per scene (for a final gif that's 60 frames). Even that may be pushing it depending on your coloring. Just be sure to consider the dimensions and colors of your gifs in relation to the amount of frames to keep your final gif under Tumblr's 10MB limit.

1.2 – Import frames, crop, resize, convert to smart object for Video Timeline, color, blend, etc. Do this as you normally would! If you need a tutorial for the basics, here's my tutorial. :) Please note, the methods in this tutorial only work with gifs that are converted into smart objects in the Video Timeline workspace.

Tip A: I recommend using scenes where there's a lot of one color (or scenes where you can manipulate it to look like that). The crystallize filter on a gif creates A LOT of movement that can feel a bit chaotic. Having your gif be primarily one color reduces the eye strain a bit imo.

Tip B: I like how this effect looks with blended scenes because it allows me to use different "crystal" sizes (more on this in Step 2.2). Check out the USERGIF Resource Directory for plenty of blending tutorials!

1.3 – Move all your gifs into one document, group into folders, and arrange. Once everything's in one doc, keep everything organized in a group folder! I have just two scenes, so that's Folder 1 & 2. Within those folders are the gifs I blended, which I labeled by gif color. Then, simply drag Folder 2 so it continues right after Folder 1. (Make sure none of your adjustment layers from Folder 2 accidentally affect Folder 1! You can do this by clipping your adjustment layers to match the length of the gif as I did, or using clipping masks.)

(Ignore that lone Hue/Saturation layer lol. I decided last-minute that I wanted my gif to lean more pink than red.)

PHASE 2: THE FILTERS

2.1 – Duplicate each scene. We're going to use opacity keyframe animations on these duplicated scenes that allow it to go from "normal" to "effect" and vice versa. The filters will only be applied to the duplicates. In the screenshot below, all of my duplicates are highlighted:

2.2 – Apply the Crystallize Filter. Above your sharpening settings, apply this filter by going to Filter → Pixelate → Crystallize. On the pink gifs, I made the crystals bigger (cell size: 45), and on the black and white gifs, I did a cell size of 25.

The different sizes help break up the uniformity of the crystals imo, creating more of a mosaic-like look, which is what I wanted to match my gifset concept.

2.3 – Apply the Oil Paint Filter (Optional). Filter > Stylize > Oil Paint. Here are my settings (they're the same for both crystal cell sizes):

Brush – Stylization: 0.1, Cleanliness: 8.6, Scale: 0.1, Bristle Detail: 0.3 Lighting – Angle: -60, Shine: 0.7

This filter helps soften the cells a bit while adding some texture (left: no oil paint; right: with oil paint):

2.4 – Repeat steps 2.2 & 2.3 on all duplicated scenes.

PHASE 3: THE KEYFRAMES

3.1 – Add opacity keyframes. The very start and end of each scene needs an opacity keyframe set to 100% opacity. Move 0.09 seconds from each of those points, and place another opacity keyframe, this time set to 0% opacity. We're basically making the crystals fade in and out. Please reference the screenshot below for keyframe placement:

If you need more info on opacity keyframes, check out Phase 2 from this fade transition tutorial I did on usergif.

3.2 – Repeat step 3.1 on all duplicated scenes. All the keyframes in Folder 1 should line up exactly and all the keyframes in Folder 2 should line up exactly!

PHASE 4: THE DUPLICATES

4.1 – Convert back to Frame Animation. If you're not sure how to do this, I've written out the steps here. I rec the action linked in my general gif tutorial which I shared earlier!

4.2 – Delete duplicate frames. Whenever you use keyframe animations, you'll get duplicate frames. That's just how it works, unfortunately. If you follow my steps exactly (specifically the 0.09-second spacing, which follows my tried-and-true 0.03-second rule), you'll have a total of 12 duplicate frames exactly — 3 duplicates per keyframe section. Just manually delete them! You can spot the duplicates by eye, but with this spacing, it's usually the 2nd, 5th, and 8th frame for each transition section. The selected frames below were my duplicates:

If you want to learn more about why there are duplicates and the math behind it all, I explained it in more detail in this ask.

4.3 – Export and you're done!

I hope this tutorial helps! Let me know if you have any questions :)

[simmattically]

Create Your Own Main Menu for The Sims 4 - Tutorial

Hey folks!

This tutorial will walk you through creating your own main menu override for The Sims 4 based on my custom repository.

_________

What is required:

JPEXS Free Flash Decompiler

Sims 4 Studio

Raster graphics editor (e.g. Photoshop, Gimp, Photopea)

Your Own Main Menu repository

_________

Step 1: Download and unzip the Your Own Main Menu repository

It's available on my Patreon page for free.

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Step 2: Prepare your custom images

There are two images that you need to customize:

SimMattically_YourOwnMainMenu_MainBG.pngThis is the main background image, where you want to put the desired graphic.Size: 1440px x 1200px

SimMattically_YourOwnMainMenu_BarBG.pngThis is the second background for the navigation bar on the right.Size: 480px x 1200px

Prepare your own images based on these templates. Do not change the size of the images.

Tips: If you're using a more complex background, such as a screenshot from your game, I recommend blurring the Bar_BG with a Gaussian Blur (~60px). Additionally, I suggest adding a white overlay with ~50% opacity and a 5-pixel wide white bar on the left edge with ~10% opacity. This helps improve the readability of the navigation bar buttons and adds an extra layer of detail to your menu design.

The repository also contains the optional file "SimMattically_RefreshedMainMenu_ScenarioButton.package" from my other mod, which replaces the Scenario button icon with a semi-transparent white version. It's up to you whether you want to use it.

_________

Step 3: Import the images to the .GFX file

Firstly, open JPEXS Free Flash Decompiler and then open my SimMattically_YourOwnMainMenu_Template.gfx with it.

Select "No to all" when prompted. 

On the left, choose "images" and scroll to the bottom where you will see the images you just edited in their original form. Right-click on each and select "Replace." Select the custom images you prepared in step 2.

Save the file.

_________

Step 4: Import the .GFX file into the .package file.

Open Sims 4 Studio, then click on "My Projects" and open SimMattically_YourOwnMainMenu.package. Select "Scale Form GFX" (the one with the "gameentrylauncher" description) and click on "Import." Select the modified .GFX file and import it. On Windows OS, you need to switch from .binary to all file types to see the file.

Save the .package file via File -> Save As... Give it a custom name and place it in The Sims 4/Mods folder.

That's it! Enjoy!

_________

IMPORTANT INFORMATION/TERMS OF USE:

Main menu overrides can become outdated with some game updates, causing them to break the game. You will have to remake your custom main menu with a new, updated template in this case. Always make sure you are using the latest available template and that it's not outdated.

Since these mods can break the game, I do not advise sharing your custom main menus with other players. You are free to do so, but be aware that since you're relying on this repository to create your own version, you most likely won't be able to update the mod and resolve issues for other players on your own, so you take responsibility for breaking their game.

If you decide to share your version with other players, please credit my repository and link to my Patreon post.

Do not put your custom main menu based on this repository behind any paywall or early access. I made this repository and tutorial free for everyone, so keep it fair.

I do not take responsibility for people misusing this repository or breaking your game with incorrectly modified files. I do not provide support for custom main menu overrides created by other creators using this repository.

_________

[flowermilksims]

Hi, would you consider doing a tutorial for your main menu mod? It's lovely and I like how you sharpened the edges of the boxes.

There may already be tutorials about this, but I haven't found any so will do a small tutorial myself ^^ (also not quite sure what you meant by sharpening box edges, i don't think i did but lmk if i just didn't understand something)

✨🌳 Making a Main Menu Replacement for the Sims 4 🌳✨

❕ You'll need: • Sims 4 Studio • JPEXS Decompiler • Image editing software (Photoshop/Photopea/etc.)

👉 And download my TEMPLATE 🌷

🠇 Full Tutorial Under The Cut 🠇

1

🖼️ Open my template archive and get the picture templates - open them in image editing program and change to whatever you want (but don't change their dimensions, sizes and names!)

I've also included a little explanatory pic of how to create '481 & 484' image.

2

✳️ Launch JPEXS decompiler (ffdec.exe), open the .gfx file from my archive - 62ECC59A!00000000!6D20AB71641B1539.gameentrylauncher.ScaleFormGFX.gfx (In the popup warning about SWF assets press "No to all")

🔄 Under 'images' tab you'll see image entries called DefineBitsLossless2 (482,483...) - click on and replace each of them with your edited pics using 'Replace..." button at the bottom - according to their numbers.

💾 Once it's done, press "Save" and close the program.

3

⚙️ Change the extension of that .gfx file to .binary (by typing binary instead of gfx at the end - you'll need to toggle 'File name extensions' in View catogory of Windows folder panel). Press 'Yes' on warning.

4

✳️ Open 'Sims 4 Main Menu Replacement ~ Template' package with S4S, press 'Batch Import' and choose the (now) .binary file you edited - 62ECC59A!00000000!6D20AB71641B1539.gameentrylauncher.ScaleFormGFX.binary. It will replace the existing entry, visually nothing will change.

💾 Don't forget to save!

5

📁 Rename the template package to your liking and put it in Mods folder. That's it! Let me know if anything wasn't clear enough ^^

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

☽ CREDITS: • sigma1202 ~ Loading screen making tutorial (my tutorial is basically a copy of it with some adjustments) • @lama-lama ~ Main menu replacements (i took the initial package file from lama-lama's replacements <3 check them out, they're beautiful!)

🤍

[sdmsims]

DIY Main Menu -- How to customize it!

Hi howdy! This is the Tumblr mirror of a tutorial posted to my Patreon. The contents are the same, so choose whichever you prefer for reading!

What you'll need for this tutorial:

The DIY main menu .package, found in the main posting

FFDEC / JPEXS decompiler

Photopea (or an offline image editor that can do the same)

Sims 4 Studio

Let's get started!

Preparation 1: Create your images using the size templates provided!

Here they are! They can also be found on Patreon (for free, of course)

Preparation 2: Resize your images using photopea, and save as .png

Open each of your images in photopea (or editor of choice), and squish the canvas into a square!

The main menu background should be 1600x1600 pixels! The sidebar should be 1000x1000 pixels!

Do not try to make them larger for 'more detail', they will break!

Step 1: Open [sdm] DIY mainmenu in Sims 4 Studio

Self explanatory, open it by double-clicking, or by clicking the 'my projects' button and navigating to the file.

Step 2: Export the first item in the warehouse

It should be a Scale Form GFX type! Right click, and select 'export'. Name this something you'll remember, and save it in a folder you'll come back to!

Step 3: Rename the exported file so it has the extension 'swf'

Self explanatory! Windows will may warn you that it may make the file unusable, but you can ignore this!

Step 4: Open FFDEC/JPEXS, and open the now .swf file

Step 5: Expand the 'images' hierarchy, and scroll all the way down until you find the images labeled 354 and 356!

These images are the main background and the sidebar background respectively. 

Step 6: Right click and replace ONLY images 354 and 356 with the images you prepared earlier

Remember, the main background (354) MUST BE 1600x1600 pixels, and the sidebar (356) MUST BE 1000x1000 pixels!

Step 7: 'Save as' a new .gfx or .swf file

The filetype here doesn't matter! You can also just save over, but I like keeping backups.

Step 8: Re-import over the original in Sims 4 Studio

Right-click the same item in the .package's warehouse that you exported earlier, but this time, click 'import'.

Select the .gfx/.swf you saved earlier!

Step 9: Save the .package file, and rename it if you intend on distributing

You can rename the .package file just how you would any other file! Try and include your creator's handle in it, so it the edit can be traced back to you.

Step 10: Test and enjoy!

While I'd like to think this tutorial is pretty straightforwards, please let me know if you have any questions :D