#everestabc

[4aos]

Друзья! Буквально сегодня ночью я вернулся из трехнедельной поездки в Непал. Было нелегко, но все прошло безболезненно и позитивно, а путешествие однозначно запомнится на всю жизнь. За эти три недели мы ✔️прошли более 130км по Гималаям, набрав и сбросив несколько тысяч метров по вертикали; ✔️побывали в базовом лагере Эвереста; ✔️ увидели три восьмитысячника, хотя планировали увидеть четыре; ✔️ без проблем и практически без задержек прилетели и вылетели из "самого опасного аэропорта мира" в Лукле; ✔️ поднялись на Кала-Паттар, который на 1 метр выше Эльбруса; ✔️ прошли перевал Чо Ла, неожиданно оказавшийся самой ж..пой всего маршрута; ✔️ заблудились вечером на высоте около 5 тысяч метров над уровнем моря; ✔️ а ещё между делом проехали три сотни километров по Оману. Обо всем этом подробно гораздо позже, в ближайшее же время продолжу рассказ о первой поездке в Непал и треккинге вокруг Аннапурны, а на днях, возможно, устрою небольшой конкурс. Также напомню, что с 5-го по 15-е июня у вас есть возможность отправиться со мной в незабываемое путешествие по всей Исландии. Осталось всего одно место при проживании в кемпингах и одно место при проживании в апартаментах. Во втором случае могу взять пару с 30-типроцентной скидкой. #непал #кольцоаннапурны #гималаи #базовыйлагерьэвереста #эверест #кхумбу #треккинг #трекинг #чола #nepal #annapurnacircuit #himalayas #travelnepal #trekkingnepal #nepaltravel #nepaltrekking #everestabc #everest #khumbu #гокио #gokyo (at Everest Base Camp - Nepal) https://www.instagram.com/onzdt/p/BwbVzAuBUld/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=194joki4kn3bm

[zebblais]

#NorthsideSummitPush : return to the life zone. The struggle isn't just to get out of the "death zone", it's to get back to the life zone. After reaching the top, we want to get to thick air, warm temps and as far from the jet stream as we can. We rested at Camp 3 for an hour, rehydrating and refueling before packing our bags and returning to descent. Once again, a huge thanks to our #Phortse #Sherpa team, who dropped camp and carried our infrastructure down. #superhuman The weather didn't cooperate. As we packed, winds and clouds whipped up and light snow began. We made a speedy exit, knowing we had 6,000' of descent left before we would hit #everestabc. We arm-wrapped the fixed lines, belaying ourselves below camp, past the body of an Australian climber who had died the week before. Condolences to his friends and family. Camp 2, pictured, looked like a post-apocalyptic warzone with thick cloud rolling over tents shredded days earlier by gale force winds. Clearing the lines of rime as we went, the snow ramp between C2 and the #NorthCol seemed never ending. We paused to melt snow and drink before making the final push down the fixed lines. 18 hours after we started, we were home. Safe at ABC. Thick air. Real food. Coca cola. Beer. @alpenglowexpeditions #AdventureDoneRight #MountEverest #Everest #Everest2017 #EverestNoFilter #Northside #DarnTough #JulboUSA #terramartribe #strapinventureout (at Mount Everest)

[zebblais]

#RapidAscent / #RapidDescent. Patience is everything in finding a window to summit #MountEverest. We waited to hit the sweet spot of warm and windless. It was a tough to wait. We watched teams push into dubious weather, return battered, frostbitten, and summitless, while others returned victorious. The failures justified our decisions but the successes made it more difficult to wait (despite us being happy for them). We stayed low, resting, watching the winds rake the upper #NortheastRidge. When the wind barbs on the meteogram became confused and dropped off the steady southwest flow it was time to #climb. Our window came later than expected, but I can't complain. 25 days after @brooks.entwistle arrived we were standing on the highest point on Earth! We summited 5/27/2017 and descended to #EverestABC the same day. We rested, packed, congratulated our Sherpa team and the #EverestNoFilter crew, and took off for Base Camp this morning. 12 hours ago we were at 21,000', now we're at 14,000' in the middle of #Tibet and in 12 more hours we'll be back at 29,035' - seated in an air plane! @alpenglowexpeditions #AdventureDoneRight #Everest2017 #Everest (at Mount Everest)

[zebblais]

#NorthsideSummitPush: Day 1, part 2. Camp 1 sits at 7,000 meters on the #NorthCol. From camp, almost the entire route to the #summit is visible. It ascends the 2,500' snow ramp and rock ridge to Camp 2. From Camp 2 it contours climber's right to Camp 3, then gains the #NortheastRidge, the skyline pictured here. The rugged and steeply stepped ridge separates the #KangshungFace from the North face, with thousands of feet of relief on either side. At the North Col we begin using supplemental oxygen. We rest and sleep on a low flow rate, then crank it up to climb. The relatively low elevation of camp combined with wide, flat tent platforms and oxygen makes this the most comfortable camp on the route. Plus, the views are a 360 degree panorama of the North face, #Changtse, #EverestABC, the East Rongbuck glacier and Lhakpa Ri 🌄! @alpenglowexpeditions #AdventureDoneRight #Everest #Everest2017 #Everestnofilter #Northside

[zebblais]

On top of the world! Great summit day- warm and calm for the duration of our climb above high camp. The night started calm and clear. As we crested the #NortheastRidge we could see across the #KangshungFace to headlamps from climbers ascending from the #SouthCol- one of the most amazing sights I've seen. Clouds built and snow started, but we picked our window to avoid the bitter winds of the jet stream, so we were pleased by the weather (until our descent below C3 😑) We made it all the way back to #EverestABC after the #summit- an 8,000' descent! @adrianballinger made the top without Os and then returned to ABC too- huge shout out for that monumental feat! So psyched everyone made it up and down safely. HUGE thanks to our incredible #Sherpa team: Panuru (sirdar), @dorjisherpa, Phurba, Nawong, @namgye, Pasang Ringi and Mingma. There is no way could do it without you! @alpenglowexpeditions #AdventureDoneRight #Everest #Everest2017 #MountEverest #DarnTough #JulboUSA #strapinventureout #terramartribe (at Mount Everest)

[zebblais]

@brooks.entwistle charging toward #everestabc yesterday. We're psyched to be up high, prepping for our summit push. We're doing another #puja today, some more acclimatizing tomorrow and studying the weather to pick a #summit window. We're also keeping our ears close to the ground to figure out what other teams are doing. The ropes on the #Northside are getting close to the top, so teams should start summiting on this side soon. Check out my blog for more details. 🔗 In profile. #MountEverest #Everest #Everest2017 #Tibet #ropefixing #expeditionlife #DarnTough (at Mount Everest)

[zebblais]

My next few posts are a chronological series of #Everest2017, starting at #EverestABC, ending on summit day. Follow #NorthsideSummitPush to see pics from each stage, and feel free to post questions in comments or email. 🌏🗻 #NorthsideSummitPush: Day 1 The NorthCol. After acclimatizing, we waited for a suitable weather window without too many big teams. This means we need two days with low winds: one to reach high camp and one to summit. We can climb through some wind on the way to camp 1 and 2, but we ideally we have low winds to high camp. This shot is from the day we climbed to the #NorthCol, the saddle between #Changtse and #Everest. We climb this section without oxygen. The climbers shown here are just below camp, which is hidden behind the bulge of ice in the middle of the shot. Once at camp we begin using supplemental oxygen, and we'll continue to use it constantly throughout the summit push. @alpenglowexpeditions #AdventureDoneRight #Everest #Northside #MountEverest (at Mount Everest)

[zebblais]

We went for a ski tour up the East Rongbuck glacier yesterday. The terrain wasn't exciting from a skiing perspective, but the scenery was mind blowing. . Here is @brooks.entwistle leaving #EverestABC. Within minutes of skiing away, the tent city became a few yellow specs and #Changtse, the 7,500m peak above camp, shrunk to a blip on the ridgeline. . We're eyeing a few weather windows and getting ourselves fired up for the climb. It's getting close to #summit time! #Everest #Everest2017 #Northside #Tibet #strapinventureout #DarnTough (at Mount Everest)

[zebblais]

Our #Sherpa team at #EverestABC (minus Dorje, our resident radio expert, who was out working- sorry Dorje!) . These guys are still cracking smiles even though we were hoping to be on the #summit right now. From left to right: Panuru, Pasang Ringi, Norbu, Phurba, QuanChuck, Mingma, Tula, @namgye and an acquaintance from next camp. It gets tough when the season goes longer than expected, even on a #RapidAscent trip. @chadpeele and I are on our 29th day, @brooks.entwistle is at day 20... Still not bad for #Everest. Summit window is in our sights- moving up soon! #Everest2017 #Northside @alpenglowexpeditions #DarnTough #strapinventureout #getonup (at Mount Everest)

[zebblais]

Spectacular conditions today moving up to #EverestABC. We walked above 21,000' in sneakers and base layers (climbing pants on our legs... we're civilized people!) Even Doctor @monica_piris had a good time 😅 We're all feeling great and psyched to be perched under the face of the #NorthCol, staring up at the #summit. The #Everestnofilter crew also moved up today. They're camping on the Col to get their acclimatization on. #getonup #MountEverest #Everest2017 #Northside #DarnTough #woohoo

[zebblais]

Yaks are incredible animals. On the North side of #Everest we use them to transport gear, food and fuel to #EverestABC at 21,000'. They are able to haul 40 kilograms in the spring, and up to 60kg when they're stronger in the fall (or maybe the yak men just make 33% more in the spring season). Either way, these beasts carry huge loads at extreme elevations. The yak men loaded them down yesterday and we took off for ABC. It'll take two days to get there with one night at interim camp. @alpenglowexpeditions #AdventureDoneRight #Everest2017 (at Everest Base Camp)

[4aos]

Друзья, я числа до 20-го апреля временно перестаю публиковать отчёт о треке вокруг Аннапурны, так как сегодня ночью в отличной компании снова вылетаю в Непал🇳🇵, теперь уже для трека к базовому лагерю Эвереста. Грядущая поездка пока вызывает кучу вопросов. 1⃣ Впереди почти суточная пересадка в Маскате, столице Омана, а помимо того, что мы сделали визы и забронировали авто, каких-то определённых целей у нас нет. Совершенно не было времени подготовиться. 2⃣ Непонятная ситуация с перелётом и Катманду в Луклу, так как с первого числа начинаются работы по ремонту взлётной полосы в главной воздушное гавани Непала. 3⃣ Такая же непонятная ситуация с оформлением TIMS и пермита на маршрут, так как в настоящий момент в Непале идёт конфронтация между ведомствами и эти документы на маршруте не признают действительными и заставляют оформлять другие. 4⃣ Брать ли с собой квадрокоптер, так как в юридическом плане к этому тоже вопросы. 5⃣ Три недели назад на горнолыжном курорте Шерегеш я получил травму ребра и ключицы, таким образом встаёт вопрос о моей возможности ходить с рюкзаком и во сколько при необходимости обойдётся портер. 6⃣ Из пятого пункта вытекает следующий. Сможем ли и успеем ли за 15 дней закольцевать маршрут через озера Гокио. Но, надеюсь, все сложится, и эта поездка также станет одной из самых запоминающихся. Пожелайте удачи! Буду благодарен, если сможете поделиться свежей информацией по этим пунктам. Ну и не забывайте, что на моем YouTube канале уже опубликовано два видео с последующими двумя днями трека вокруг Аннапурны, о которых я здесь ещё не рассказывал. #непал #кольцоаннапурны #гималаи #аннапурнатрек #трекинг #треккинг #вокруганнапурны #nepal #annapurnacircuit #himalayas #travelnepal #trekkingnepal #nepaltravel #nepaltrekking #аннапурна #Эверест #базовыйлагерьэвереста #гокио #лукла #everest #everestabc https://www.instagram.com/onzdt/p/Bvlsp4JAIOB/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=ohitlpvi3ube

[zebblais]

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A post shared by Zeb Blais (@zebblais)

For those of us who just arrived at #EverestABC, it's hard enough just to walk around camp without getting winded. The air is thin and dry and our bodies just aren't equipped to deal with it yet. Norbu, our Tibetan kitchen boy, is not only acclimatized, he's a super hard worker and tough as nails. This morning he was chopping glacial ice for drinking and cooking water. It's amazing how he and our #Sherpa team work up here. Our climbing Sherpas went high yesterday to establish camp and carry loads to the #NorthCol at 7000 meters (23,000’). That's our next destination after we rest here a bit. @alpenglowexpeditions #DarnTough @gopro