#ethnic costumes books

[noir-fleur-creations]

Crill, Rosemary. Dress in detail from around the world.V&A Publications ; New York. 2002.

This book from the Victoria Albert Museum is “An illustrated journey through the intricate details of ethnic dress” (Crill, Rosemary). It features clothing from a variety of places including Europe, Asia, and India. It features detailed and full color photos of the garments, proving useful for any costumer. More importantly though for the costumer, this book features line drawing of the garment’s internal structure. In fact the book is designed for “designers, students, and other style-o-philes.” (Crill, Rosemary). It was published in 2002 but remains relevant to this day as an outstanding resource in their line of dress in detail reference series.

[literaryvein-reblogs]

Writing Notes: Fantasy Worldbuilding

Fantasy worldbuilding - the process of creating a fictional world replete with core characters, overlapping storylines, detailed settings, and fantastical elements that set the world apart from our own.

A clear, detailed fantasy world will help readers invest in the characters that inhabit it.

Essential Elements of a Fantasy World

The fantasy genre often contains elements of science fiction, magic, or imaginative creatures—but it’s more than just writing every fictional element you can think up. The world of your fantasy novel, video game, television show, or film has to make sense in order for the rest of its parts to work in harmony.

Magic: Decide if there is a magic system in place, then set the rules of it. What powers it? Is it a secret? Can anyone use it?

Geography: It may be helpful to create a fantasy map. Identify major landmasses and historic sites. How does the landscape impact the plot or the characters? What is the climate like? You can get as specific as identifying the indigenous flora and fauna, even if you don’t use those details. As a world-builder, you can include as much or as little in your process and final version as you like—as long as your story comes together in a way that makes sense for the audience.

Society: Figure out the inhabitants of your fantasy world. What language do they speak? What do they look like? Are they humanlike? Are they creaturelike? What sort of culture do they have? How have previous historical events impacted the way they live now?

History: While you don’t have to outline the beginning of your world’s history to the end, it’s useful to know of any key events like wars, plagues, political strife, extraterrestrial invasions, or anything else that had an effect on the way your world operates now.

Time: How does it flow in your world? Is there a calendar? Are there seasons? What affects the light and the darkness?

How to Create a Fantasy World

There are many avenues for writing fantasy worlds, and you can start with whichever aspect you like first:

Use real life as inspiration. That doesn’t mean taking people from existing ethnic groups and putting costumes on them—but observe how other cultures live, how they interact with their environments and each other. By incorporating real-life into your fantasy book, you can avoid falling into tropes and clichés, and create a richer template for your characters and plot to thrive in.

Define the setting. A good starting point when creating a fantasy story is the universe itself. Is this an imaginary world existing within our own world, like Black Panther’s Wakanda? Or is it its own entirely new world, like Narnia in C.S. Lewis’s fantasy series The Chronicles of Narnia? Describe what the landscape looks like, what colors it contains, or how many suns and moons it has. Any details that can help make your fantasy world feel more like real-life in order to help ground it in something believable will make a difference in how your audience feels and experiences it.

Create inhabitants. A fantasy world has more than one type of inhabitant. They can be vastly different from one another, or only have subtle contrasts between them. For example, in J.R.R. Tolkien’s Lord of the Rings, the magical world setting of middle-earth has both Dwarves and Hobbits, which, despite both being the smaller races, contain many differences between them. They each have their own origins and backstories, temperaments, key aesthetics, daily life routines, and various other aspects that enrich and define the separate races. Inhabitants include the antagonists as well. Make them more than one-dimensional bad guys—give them a motivation that’s relevant to the world they live in.

Make magic. Implement your magic system, if there is one. Write its limits, along with its capabilities. For instance, in George R. R. Martin’s Game of Thrones, the magic in the world seemingly gets stronger when the main character Daenerys Targaryen brings about the birth of her dragons. Magic needs rules in order to function properly in your fantasy world, and while you don’t need to include a list of laws in your writing, the use of it must make them apparent.

Source ⚜ More: References ⚜ Writing Resources PDFs

[crescenthistory]

10 people i’d like to get to know better<3

tagged by the lovely @rodyassock on my main account, mwah👩‍❤️‍💋‍👩

last song you listened to: sour breath by julien baker

favourite colour: i’ve always been a blue girlie up until two years ago when i embraced green and now it's all i wear

last book i finished: “trials of nation making: liberalism, race, and ethnicity in the andes, 1810-1910” for my uni book review 🥲 & i'm constantly rereading my favourite passages of my favourite novel “oranges are not the only fruit” by jeanette winterson

last show i watched: taskmaster uk lol

sweet/salty/savoury: for enjoyment sweet, for medical purposes salty (POTS gang rise up)

relationship status: long-term partnership with my best friend 🤍 (legally shes my wife bc of benefits so i love to call her that, but we prefer 'partnership' as a label because it's beautiful)

most recent google search: violet beauregarde (halloween costume)

current obsession: marauders era in general, this week i’ve mostly been thinking about rem

looking forward to: finishing my book review tonight so i can breathe

tagging (no pressure):

@regkitblack @hyunielover @soleilfool @poetichibiscus @gl1tterc0rpse @butt3rnugg3t @m00nkissedlover @honeyssweetened @rosieswriting @helens3amstuff @alwaysanundertone & anyone else who wants to play 🤍🤍

[songs-of-the-east]

Ethnic Russians from Komi region

From the book: Russian costume in photographs: Metamorphoses by A. Petrova

[this-world-of-beautiful-monsters]

like I would put it out there that ar's books are far more fixated on morality than the show. ofc there's the whole thing about her switching relationship to Christianity, the obsession with killing the Evil Doer, etc., but more than that her books are structured around extremely conventional morality in regards to racism and ethnicity, regardless of how transgressive they are in regards to gender and sexuality. her vampires are ruthless monsters, but they also operate according to her strict moral/political framing of the world: slavery is bad but Black people aren't quite people unless they're mixed enough to be sexy, we should represent other cultural practices as long as we get to endlessly misrepresent the cultures in question, poc are allowed to turn into vampires if they give up their melanin in the process, brown features work well as a costume for British cosplayers but actual brown people are brutish and mean, the west is noble and heroic and the east is morally suspect and fallible to the guiles of misplaced faith, whether Christian or otherwise. like this is the moral framework

upon which the entire series revolves. every single question ar asks about life and death and love is in some way, even if very faintly, shaped by this framework, which is so built in most people don't even notice it. which is honestly such a perfect metaphor for the queer community and its history of chasing transgression while still upholding their parents' ideas of racial supremacy and white morality. andit's the show's attempt to question that understanding of morality which confuses and frightens people and comes across as the real moralizing.

[felassan]

The Art of Dragon Age: The Veilguard - more preview pages, under a cut due to spoilers. Preview pages come from Amazon.

( Other batches of preview pages, spoiler warning for links:

[Foreword]

Google Books pages [Part One]

Google Books pages [Part Two] )

Antiva We wanted the city of assassins to be opulent, seductive, and theatrical. The tongue-in-cheek design concept was 24/7 Batman opera: dark roofs to perch on, rich interiors with daggers behind every curtain. Antivan designs worked best in high contrast with rich colors. It increased the overall drama. We made the rooftops the domain of the Crows. Above the city they move freely, striking bold silhouettes for the population to thrill at. Some parts of the city have sunk deeper into the sea.

Antivan Crow Costumes The Antivan Crows are murderers, yes, but they are wealthy, flashy, stylish, sophisticated murderers. They are not a goon squad killing innocent, helpless people. They are what Antiva has instead of an army to (for a price) protect the nation from threats both foreign and domestic. While outsiders may see them as swords for hire with delusions of grandeur, the Crows are a celebrated and integral part of Antivan culture. This is you working alongside Antonio Banderas in Desperado, not Steve Buscemi in Fargo. They may not be nice, and it is totally reasonable for a player to be opposed to working with assassins, but this specific group is not intended to be uniformly grim. Crows aren’t shy about displaying their wealth. [Center] Originally designed as a seasonal Halloween costume, this Crow was too good not to build. Costume design for a faction that’s all about theatricality gave us a chance to go big.

There are still a lot of different archetypes within each faction.   For the Crows, they can range from ominous to bombastic. It was fun to explore the range of Crows, from the elegant to the scoundrels. We briefly explored giving Crows functional grappling hooks. While the Crows were mostly about leather and silver, we still wanted to have some heavy armor in their lineup.

Furniture tells you a lot about a region. In the case of the Deep Roads, we went for as many single-cut stones as possible. Paragon sculptures celebrate prominent figures in every profession. [top right] A tongue-in-cheek design for a dwarven mining suit. Bas-reliefs, sculptures and signs all speak about what life was like in the Deep Roads before they were abandoned.

[top center] A mobile crucible. [center left] Crane powered by a walking wheel. [center right] A walking wheel-powered pile driver. [center bottom] Industrial-level blacksmithing equipment, including a trip hammer, a grinding stone, and bellows. [bottom right] An industrial-grade blast furnace where tons of metal are smelted and poured out into giant molds.

Rivain Castaways making new lives. The majority are human, descended from Tevinters and their longstanding trading partners. There are ethnicities here who don’t seem to match the currently documented list of nations, hinting at shores not visited in living memory, and there are also Qunari. Some fleeing the Qun. Some not fleeing, but reinterpreting. There is a sizable Qunari community, and it is finding converts and alarming both Tevinter and the Qunari triumvirate. Rivain is a mix of outcast people making something new. Life beneath Rivain is just as varied. Banners of conquerors over buildings touched by many cultures, smuggler tunnels, Tevinter public works, the bones of conquered cities and even deeper infrastructure, elven ruins, deep roads, and deeper roads. Rivain was a great palate cleanser between dense urban regions, midnight swamps, and vast caverns. It may be beautiful, but it’s no less dangerous to navigate. From the earliest sketches, we wanted a land of tropical colors, infested with dragons.

Arlathan Forest Arlathan Forest, once the seat of power for the ancient elven empire, is now a realm where magic runs wild and twists reality itself into new and terrifying shapes. Artifacts from that long-ago time have begun to activate. Infused with the powerful magic that saturates the very ground in the forest, they have made what was already a dangerous place far stranger and more deadly. [right] [there is one more caption in this image that I cannot make out the text of]

Book art credits:

BioWare art: Matt Rhodes, Ramil Sunga, Albert Urmanov, Christopher Scoles, Nick Thornborrow, Steve Klit

Volta art: Gui Guimaraes, Stéphanie Bouchard, Akim Kaliberda, Alejandro Olmedo, Alexey Zaryuta, Julien Carrasco, Maksim Marenkov, Marianne Martin, Mariia Istomina, Marion Kivits, Matti Marttinen, Mélanie Bourgeois, Pablo Hurtado De Mendoza, Rael Lyra, Rodrigo Ramos, Thomas Schaffer, Tiago Sousa, Tristan Kang, Vladimir Mokry, Yintion J, Joseph Meehan, Stefan Atanasov, Julien Carrasco

Additional art: Marc Holmes, Thomas Scholes

[sunmaylight]

Ramble about Reverse 1999 (not a promo but just fan gushing)

If you haven’t already, even though it’s been around for over one and a half years now. Try Reverse 1999. It’s a gacha game made by Bluepouch where there is a female MC with character, diverse cast of playable characters and NPCs. A large chunk of the characters looks hot and can make you feel gay or bi.

(EDIT: I forgot my boi!) Did you know that Reverse 1999 also has non-human characters? The magical Science/Sci-Fi magic/magic in this world has the power to make the most random thing a playable character. Exhibit A is an Apple. Then there is my favorite one of this group that is “A Knight”. A Knight is a cape, suit of armor’s lower arm guards and gloves, plus his sword. No body, but enough of an imposing figure that one can guess where the human body outline would be. Also A Knight is a heavy hitter plus one of my top two reasons for downloading the game in the first place.

The story is haunting, mysterious, and interactive. Like in between story sections, one of the interactive experiences is to interact with a gruff old man voice that should be in a noir film. That old guy is like haunting the narrative through the MC’s inner thoughts that makes me wonder if the old guy’s main objective in doing that is to entice the MC to switch sides, give a different perspective/more insight to the story, or just mess with the MC

Did I mention that the character’s have different ethnic background and that their voice acting includes those different languages sometimes if you play it in English? Like one of the characters is a French teenage girl who slips into French sometimes when excited. Or that the new event has several parts where the cast slips into Chinese sometimes.

The level of detail and creation to this is amazing. I’m only beginning the fourth book/fourth chapter(?) of this and the expansion of the world of Reverse 1999 is slowly growing as the MC is traveling. (Look, I’ve basically had this game since launch but not a lot of time and my motivation to tackle video games/mobile games are always on a rotating shuffle with IRL that I have to pick and choose)

Oh! Speaking of the story, not all Event stories follow the MC and that characters from previous stories/books/chapters actually stick around or have background stories that we get glimpse of that connect to the main story with the MC.

Then let me talk about the gameplay. Auto battles, an easy game mechanic once you get used to it that reminds me of FGO, and multiple ways to power up the characters. Plus a place to just let them relax that you can expand upon. Then when events rolls around, there are so many different mini games/challenges that this game has with each event. Like, one event has puzzles and the next event is an interactive map exploration. So much fun

Listen, try Reverse 1999 if you want something new and a story with a mystery in it. Plus there is an event with a limited time character that ends in over a week before the new update patch drops a new story chapter with events that will give new character, costumes, and challenges. Excited for that

Also there are like no 3-D models. Everything is 2-D art

[dcdreamblog]

Can we talk about Doctor Thirteen? While I think calling him a superhero is a stretch (I guess I can buy "the Ghost Breaker" as a supranym, but calling his penchant for retro overcoats a costume feels like a stretch), people have made the argument, and certainly he's adjacent to them, given his daughters, etc. AIUI, he's done a LOT of good work when it comes to exposing charlatans and con artists in particular, and as a detective in general, but he's also been accused of going overboard on the skepticism to the point of delusion or even bigotry.

We can, we should, and I already have but I will never turn my nose up at a chance to take another look at a topic.

(The author headshot of Thirteen from his book "My Soul and a Ten Buys a Pack")

I already gave an in depth rundown in my other post but short version is Terrence Thirteen came from a family that had long been afflicted with a "curse" causing all of its members to die by hanging at some point in their lives in frighteningly similar circumstances. After the death of his father Terrence was outcast from his community due to superstition surrounding the curse and, after unveiling the very mundane violence behind the so called "curse" swore to never again be taken in by superstition.

He became a writer, columnist and eventually a television presenter of some renown under the alias "Ghost Breaker" where he made his living debunking various cults, psychics and any other 'supernatural' happening taking advantage of vulnerable people. He still makes his living that way to this day, despite having semi retired for many years to raise his daughter Traci.

NOW, what I want to talk about is moderating some of the push back the man has received. There's a tendency in modern, open minded folks to call him a nut, to laugh at him, to dismiss him out of hand for his ironclad skepticism of the supernatural even in the face of overwhelming evidence. I'm guilty of it to.

What left me squealing to a stop in my tracks was seeing people talking about all those "poor magic users" he was bullying. Calling him a modern day Puritan. Given the court of public opinion to his opponents sight unseen of any of his work. That's not only unfair its deeply dangerous from a social point of view. Every single person that Dr. Thirteen has eviscerated in his professional life was exactly the kind of conman he found them to be and in order to fully frame that I should make one thing REAL clear. Homo Magi, the name for people who posses some inborn magical talent are RARE. They exist in DEEPLY isolated communities at the fringes of already isolated ethnic groups. In the far north of Scandinavia, the Tibetan plateau, the depths of the Amazon. There are MAYBE 20,000 full blooded Homo Magi in the GLOBAL population and 99.99% of them don't live anywhere near modern civilization. Anyone using that kind of bloodline to peddle a capitalistic living should be treated as DEEPLY suspect.

Wizards, that is, a catch all term for those with actual training and experience in the mystic arts. Are RARER. There's a reason the really powerful and respected ones are almost universally superheroes. To cultivate the kind of magical skill and talent needed to commit the kind of deeds we associate with people like Dr. Fate or Zatanna takes DECADES of training, direct support from a nonhuman power or usually BOTH. I would estimate there are maybe a couple DOZEN real, honest to god trained mages on the planet at any one time.

Yes it is possible to learn magic. It is NOT possible to learn magic in a 12 week online course. If you're learning real magic, you don't need me or anyone else to confirm it for you. Nor are you probably reading a blog post right now.

This adds onto the fact that real magic users should be able to prove themselves on command, especially when they are charging people money.

Zatanna doesn't need slight of hand to do something unarguably impossible. She does slight of hand because stage magic is her profession. In the news footage you can see her pretty clearly dropping buildings on people.

Dr. Fate doesn't need a table cloth and a fog machine to make a table rise 2 inches, he can pick up a bare stone and fling it across the room in broad daylight. The easiest way to disprove someone's magical credentials is to ask them to do something stupid without preparation. If they can do it, they're a wizard. If they can't, they're a fraud.

Dr. Thirteen's position is, in 99.999% of cases that you, I or anyone we know will ever be involved in, totally logical and more than likely correct. The things that go bump in the night have not been openly active in the human world for a LONG time. Vampires, witches and fae don't go about haunting the back alleys anymore because those who DO dabble in the mystic arts have made it very clear where the red lines are.

That thing you can't explain probably has a totally logical explanation. Even if it IS magic, there's not a whole lot you can or should do about it. There is not a SINGLE way to prove by casual observation whether something you saw was supernatural or just superhuman. The difference between an honest to god vampire and a metahuman is academic and only matters if it's trying to kill you right at that moment.

If a vampire or vampire like metahuman IS trying to kill you at that moment, your job is to stay alive and keep your head down long enough for the heroes to come along and do the job they do. If you are not the kind of person this advice applies to you already know it and don't need to listen to some idiot online about it anyway.

In my personal life I take the same stance on magic that I do on alien conquerors and the dynamics of the Green Lantern Corps.

"It does not have a single thing to do with me, and I am very much HAPPIER that way. The people who know how to handle it are handling it and thank god for that."

[lesorciercanadien]

French Canadian and Acadian culture resources, music, retailers and media

I want to share where I usually find resources regarding my culture, what I tend to trust, and what music, movies and literature informs my spiritual practice! Many of them are in French, with options to switch to English within the website parameters.

Cultural, historical societies and archive centres

Centre Marius Barbeau: The Center specializes in the area of immaterial culture. Its mission is to preserve, promote and encourage recognition, conservation, passing on and spreading of Quebec folk arts and traditions including those of the First Nations and other ethnic communities. The centre owns more than 10,000 documentary pieces of which a very large part is already catalogued and indexed! Costumes, songs, recordings, visual art, and so so much more! https://www.cdmb.ca

Centre de recherche Père Clarence d'Entremont, Musée des Acadiens des Pubnicos, Société Historique Acadienne de Pubnico-Ouest: The Archives « Centre de recherche Père Clarence-J. d’Entremont» is located on the second floor of the Museum and Centre de recherche annex. The archives house many collections including the private collection of historian Father Clarence-J. d’Entremont. Amongst the collections found in the research center are over 5000 library books and periodicals (historical and genealogical), genealogies, land grants, deeds, microfilms, photos, maps, photographs, church records, etc. https://www.museeacadien.ca/research-center

Acadian Research Center of Prince Edward Island: Part of the Acadian Museum in PEI. They have more than 4,000 Acadian family records, including information on birth, marriage and death dates, as well as various censuses. This is in addition to the 30,000 genealogical records that their volunteers have transcribed over the years, as well as the 160 Acadian family files, binders and booklets given to them by independent researchers. They also have 340 thematic files covering various topics related to Acadian history and a library of more than 1,500 books on Acadian history as well as rare books. The Acadian Research Center of Prince Edward Island has more than 230 fonds in its collection, belonging to individuals or organizations.To view some archival fonds and photos, please visit: http://acadieipe.ca The Acadian Research Center follows the same opening hours as the Acadian Museum. To view the documents mentioned above or for more information, please contact the Acadian Museum at (902) 432-2880.

Centre d'études acadiennes Anselme-Chiasson, University of Moncton, New Brunswick: The Centre d'études acadiennes Anselme-Chiasson, established in 1968, collects and preserves all relevant documentary material concerning the Acadians and Acadian Society in various fields (history, genealogy, ethnology, sociology, archeology, folklore, demography, geography, economics, language) and offers inventories and tools to facilitate access to this material to interested researchers and members of the public. It has the largest collection of private and institutional records on Acadia in the world. It is located next to the Acadian Museum, which features a permanent exhibition and temporary exhibits, as well as guided tours and screenings of historical films and documentaries. https://www.umoncton.ca/umcm-ceaac/

Scholars and authors

Georges Arsenault (1952- still alive): historian and folklorist, born in Abram's Village, Prince Edward Island. He has published extensively on the folklore and history of the Acadians of his home island, many of these books I have in my collection for the traditions and holiday celebrations of my culture. Favorite book: Contes, légendes et chansons de l'Île-du-Prince-Édouard. Grande Marée. 2018.

Père Anselme Chiasson (1911-2004): a Catholic priest, educator and writer, born in Chéticamp, Nova Scotia. He has made significant contributions to the recording of Acadian history and folklore and folktales. He also published several volumes of Chansons d'Acadie, collections of Acadian songs. Favorite book: Chéticamp : Histoire et Traditions acadiennes. Préface de Luc Lacourcière. 3e édition. Moncton : Éditions des Aboiteaux, 1972.

Marius Barbeau (1883-1969): A monumental figure in folklore studies in Canada, he was born in Ste-Marie-de-Beauce, Quebec. Ethnographer, folklorist, a founder of Canadian anthropology. He is known for his early championing of Quebecois folk culture and his exhaustive cataloguing of the social organization, narrative and musical traditions and plastic arts of Quebecois and many First Nations oral traditions for a mass audience. He worked from 1916 to 1950 as editor on the Journal of American Folklore, in that time focusing a lot on Canadian folklore. TW: this researcher may present biases towards First Nations people and their cultures, using terms that are not considered okay today. So please, support more recent scholars and preferably First Nations authors to know more. Favorite book: Ceinture Flechée. Montréal: Paysana. 1945.

Pierre DesRuisseaux (1945-2016): Born in Sherbrooke, Quebec, he was a novelist, essayist, poet, and journalist. He wrote many works on the expressions, proverbs, sayings, and folkloric tales of Quebec. Favorite book: Croyances et pratiques populaires au Canada français, Montréal, Éditions du Jour, 1973.

Jean-Claude Dupont (1934-2016): Born in Saint-Antonin, Quebec, he was an ethnographer and researcher at University of Laval. His ethnological thesis, Héritage d'Acadie, documented the spiritual traditions of Acadians, and I use it heavily in my practice. He was a pioneer of material cultures research, using this in his ethnological research. Favorite book: Heritage d’Acadie. Collection Connaissance, éditions Lemeac. 1977. 

Carolyn Podruchny (still active in academia!): PhD, is a Professor of History at York University. Her research focuses on the relationships forged between Indigenous peoples and French colonists in northern North America. Her first monograph, Making the Voyageur World: Travelers and Traders in the North American Fur Trade (2006), examines French Canadian voyageurs who worked in the North American fur trade based out of Montreal, and ranging to the Great Lakes, the Great Plains, northern woodlands, and the subarctic. She focuses a lot on Indigenous Peoples , History, The meeting of Europeans and Indigenous peoples in the North American fur trade. The cultural, social, gender, labour, and environmental questions, Early Canadian history, Metis history, fur trade history, colonialism. She is an amazing resource! Favorite book: Making the Voyageur World: Travelers and Traders in the North American Fur Trade. Lincoln, Neb.: University of Nebraska Press. 2006.

Benoît Lacroix (1915-2016): Born in Saint-Michel-de-Bellechasse, Quebec. A Quebec theologian, philosopher, Dominican priest, professor of medieval studies and historian of the Medieval period, and author of almost 50 works and a great number of articles. His collection is extensive in terms of religious life in Quebec, and a high recommendation for spiritual inspiration! Even just the list of publications on Wikipedia is a wealth of possibility, I recommend it! Favorite book: Folklore de la mer et religion. Editions Lemeac, 1980.

Antonine Maillet (1929- 2025): This lesbian queen of the letters in Acadie! She is an Acadian novelist, playwright and scholar. She was born in Bouctouche, New Brunswick. It's impossible to note down which of her books are the best, they're all such authentic works! For my favorite book, it's for my research into the folklore of course! I first read her for her novel, Pélagie-la-Charette, published in 1974. It's about an Acadian woman who guides her fellow Acadians out of Georgia back to their homeland, enmeshing folklore and history together in her narrative. Favorite book: Rabelais et les traditions populaires en Acadie. Les Archives de Folklore, 13. Les Presses de l’Université Laval, Québec, 1971.

Fred Pellerin (1976- still alive): a legend of traditional Quebec storytelling, Fred is from Saint-Élie-de-Caxton. He is a storyteller, author, and screenwriter. He's especially known for his double-entendre turns of phrases, clever verbal acrobatics, rhythm of speaking, and his amazing imagination of the Quebecois landscape and villages of the 19th century into the 20th. He has many books with accompanying CDs with his many stories of his village and the colourful characters inhabiting it. He also collaborated on the film adaptations of his folktales Babine (2008), Ésimésac (2012), and L'arracheuse de temps (2021). Favorite book: Dans mon village, il y a belle Lurette…, livre et CD, Planète rebelle, collection « Paroles », 2001, 142 p. (ISBN 2-9225-2855-3)

Musical heritage and modern bands

Le Vent du Nord: Favorite album: Territoires (2019) a mainstay in the Canadian folk landscape, Le Vent du Nord specializes in traditional French-Canadian folk music. Fiddle, mandolin, accordion, guitar, bouzouki, hurdy-gurdy, and rich vocal harmonies and podorythmie beats. Their Shrewsbury music festival shows on Youtube are absolutely riveting to watch! One of my all-time favorite bands for my magical musical needs! "La Turlutte a bassinette" is one of my main grounding songs.

Luc Arbogast: Favorite album: Oreflam (2014). This man. Where to begin with this amazing individual!? He's from Larochelle, France, and was a contestant on season 2 of the Voice. He is a troubadour who plays traditional instruments like the Irish bouzouki, lute, bells. He is known for his unique countertenor voice and medieval songs inspired by artists like Hildegard of Bingen, Walther von der Vogelweide, and Guillaume de Machaut. He sings in old dialects, French and English. If I ever cross his path on the streets of Strasbourg one day, I will fanboy scream.

Vishtèn: Favorite album: Terre Rouge (2015). They are a folk music group from Prince Edward Island and the Magdalen Islands, whose style is rooted in Acadian music. They performed for the Library of Congress, available on Youtube "Vishtèn: Acadian music from Prince Edward Island". They fuse French, Acadian and Irish tunes. Quite beautiful harmonies too!

Les Tireux d'Roches: Favorite album: Tapiskwan sipi (2021). They're from St-Élie-de-Caxton, Mauricie, Quebec. They are considered storytellers-musicians-troubadours of Quebecois folklore and music. Using the cello, bouzouki, guitar, banjo, saxophone, clarinet, accordion, flute, harmonica. Folklorist and storyteller Fred Pellerin used to play with them!

La Bottine Souriante: favorite album: La mistrine (1994). From the Lanaudière region of Québec, La Bottine Souriante formed in 1976 during the Québec renaissance of traditional music. They use accordion, fiddle, guitar, piano, double-bass, which gives them a jazzier sound. They are known far and wide in Québec for their New Year's Eve anthems resounding in our homes, and they really go deep into the old tunes of the logging camps and voyageur trails, with some new compositions guaranteed for foot-tapping.

Les Charbonniers de L'enfer: Favorite album: La traverse miraculeuse (2008). Hailing from Quebec, they concentrate especially on vocal harmonies and acapellas, the jaw harp, and foot rhythm. They focus especially on traditional songs from the archival repertoire of French music imported with the settlers into New France, and voyageur call and response songs.

La Croisée d'Antan: Favorite album: L'antre Des Loups (2017). A trio of multi-talented musicians, La Croisée d'Antan features the violin, banjo, podorythmie, harmonica, accordion, guitar, and beautiful vocal harmonies. They have lots of traditional tunes, and new compositions with inspirations from yesteryear.

Le Diable a Cinq: favorite album: Sorti de l'enfer (2017). Five instrumentalists from the Ripon region of Outaouais, they aim to bring back the kitchen parties so fondly remembered in French Canadian households with their music. They're all from the same family: three brothers, one cousin and a friend. They use guitar, piano, vocal harmonies, accordion, podorythmie, violin, mandolin.

Movies (this list is always in progress as I discover more!)

Hochelaga: Land of Souls (2017): I watch this one every year on All Souls' Day. A Canadian historical drama film directed and written by François Girard and starring Gilles Renaud, Samian and Tanaya Beatty. Dramatizing several centuries of Quebec history and the local history of Montreal in particular, the story depicts Quebec archaeology revealing the past of indigenous peoples, explorers and 1837 rebels. I won't give away the many emotional gut punches this movie delivers. I adored seeing artifacts and then the flashback scenes of what this artifact went through in the hands of the various peoples that create today's Québec.

Babine (2008): Adapted from Fred Pellerin's book Il faut prendre le taureau par les contes, the film stars Vincent-Guillaume Otis as Babine, the village idiot of Saint-Élie-de-Caxton, Quebec. A lifelong outcast because his mother (Isabel Richer) was believed to be the town witch, he becomes the immediate suspect when the town's church catches fire, killing the parish priest (Julien Poulin). However, he will receive the support of the village's merchant, Toussaint Brodeur (Luc Picard), as he attempts to prove his innocence.

Ésimésac (2012): Although an unofficial sequel to the 2008 film Babine, unlike the earlier film Ésimésac was not directly based on Fred Pellerin's previously published stories; instead, the film's screenplay placed some of Pellerin's established characters in a new original story. The film stars Nicola-Frank Vachon as Ésimésac Gélinas, a young but physically strong man whose distinguishing trait is that he does not cast a shadow. He convinces the village of Saint-Élie-de-Caxton to plant and maintain a community garden after an economic crisis has left many of the townspeople hungry, but finds himself in conflict with village blacksmith Riopel's (Gildor Roy) plan to focus on building tracks for a railroad.

L'arracheuse de Temps (2021): Based on the 2009 story by Fred Pellerin of the same name. It stars Jade Charbonneau, Marc Messier, Céline Bonnier, Guillaume Cyr, Émile Proulx-Cloutier, Marie-Ève Beauregard, Pier-Luc Funk, Sonia Cordeau, and Geneviève Schmidt. An illness-worn grandmother tries to convince her 11-year-old grandson that death does not exist. She tells him about the adventures of her youth in Saint-Élie-de-Caxton, in 1927, when she had tried to eliminate death in the village.

Visual Artists

Clarence Alphonse Gagnon (1881-1942): One of my all-time favourite artists, and a really distant relative of mine! He was born in Montréal, Quebec. a painter, draughtsman, engraver and illustrator. He is known for his landscape paintings of the Laurentians and the Charlevoix region of eastern Quebec, where my family lived. It enchants me to no end, seeing my familiar landscapes with his brushstrokes! Favorite painting: Dans la clairière, Charlevoix. Huile sur panneau de bois, 1915. 15.7 x 22.8cm. no. 1988.113. 

Claude Langevin (1942-2024): A quick painter of landscapes, self-taught! His use of the brush is reminiscent of the Impressionists. He wished to express his affection for his people and his land. His depiction of the Laurentian landscape allows the viewer to feel a strong unfailing connection between the artist and the region he calls home. His use of light in his works reminds me so much of how the sun illuminates the Saguenay region, much to my fond memories. Favorite painting: Au but de champs.

Tom Roberts (1909-1998): Born in Toronto Ontario. He drew inspiration from the Group of Seven and French Impressionism. His paintings, characterized by vivid colours and dynamic compositions, captured the diverse landscapes of Canada, from Northern Ontario to the Maritime provinces. His use of both watercolours and oils brings versatility and an array of variety! Favorite Painting: Quebec Landscape, 1950. Oil on masonite 24 x 30” in. 

Books and Witchy Tools and Where to Get Them

Most mainstream anglophone shops like Chapters Indigo don’t have much. There are other options within Québec and in local regions for our books, and some of them ship elsewhere!

Archambault: this retailer has a lot of Quebec authors, music. Many books in their collections have folklore, regional histories, folk tales and more! Simply type the region you want, for example, Charlevoix or Saguenay, with any key words like “contes” and “folklore” and you’re bound to find a few good reads. https://www.archambault.ca

Septentrion: a bookstore specializing in historical monographs and scholarly works, especially those of France, Québec and any other region where we settled. https://www.septentrion.qc.ca

Bookmark Halifax: https://halifax.bookmarkreads.ca/. A local independent bookshop in our maritime province specializing in local interest authors and titles. Many features books include local history, graveyards, notable people, local plants, and so much more!

Carrefour Atlantic Emporium and Puffin Gallery: https://www.carrefouratlanticemporium.com. An eclectic paradise of local handicrafts, books, art from all over the maritimes! There’s a location on 1869 Upper Water Street, Halifax. I go there for most of my witchy tools like hand-carved spoons, woven tapestries, jewelry, statuettes, and lots of books on Acadian and Scots plants, folklore, history and culture books, as well and Indigenous titles. Sadly I don't think they ship, but always worth asking!

Honorable mention to Jennifer's of Nova Scotia! They're a local shop in Downtown Halifax where a multitude of local craftspeople and artisans sell their works! I get my pottery, tea, candles, art, jewelry, and trinkets from them! They only deliver within 20km of the store.

For those who garden or who are interested in Quebec-grown plants and seeds to incorporate into your spiritual path, here's a website to have a list of all available growers and seed providers! https://notreheritage.ca/semences/semenciers/#:~:text=Situé%20sur%20la%20Rive%2DSud,plein%20potentiel%20de%20chaque%20cultivar.

There's also the Pépinière Ancestrale, based in Saint-Julien, QC. a regional nursery for fruit trees, shrubs and plants! They ship to Quebec, Ontario and the Maritimes! https://www.pepiniereancestrale.com

That's all I can think of for now! There's certainly more, but here is plenty to get any of you started! Feel free to reach out and ask any questions!

[sacredhyacinth]

Hi! As you seem to get more into Regency clothing, and as I am a person interested in historical accuracy in clothing and armor throughout history and grew up with the ‘Smithsonian FASHION , the definitive history of costume and style’ , I wanted to share some pictures .

The most common form of Regency clothing is in 1810s France. Unless this isn’t canon anymore, you have stated that Harmonia brought French culture to organa in a lore dump post but without a date of when she traveled to France would be hard to say what era of clothing she would’ve brought to the island. I’m gonna assume she went when napoleon just gained power and picked up some fashion and culture from that time, so around 1799 to 1801. Also after the Duke of Wellington defeated napoleon at Waterloo, Wellington boots were popular. I don’t know why I included this.

Here are the actual pictures of the Regency era clothing from the Smithsonian book:

(The 1830s had a stark contrast in fashion and looked at bit weird with their sleeves.) also looking through my old sketches I found my first fan-sketch of Jane O’gunua

The historical accuracy was a bit of a mess on my part. I tried to go for the whole ‘mysterious’ thing with a veil and that didn’t work. Also I imagined her as a governess or wet-nurse for Harmonia before you re-canonized her as a formal 2nd wife , but historical wise, the medical period to late 17th century weren’t that big on wet-nurses if they had a different skin tone or ethnicity or religion as the family paying them (some shit about ‘corrupting’ the child).

and this is my current fanart:

((The back of the dress is a mess.) also I had the weird idea of her wearing more and more red and less gunua yellow/gold the more she got more used to the house of Julius.)

YOU.

the way I’m going insane over jane’s design it’s so fricking cool

[trekbait]

THIS is why you keep FAILING to blend in on ANCIENT EARTH!

Getting stuck on Earth of the past is a surprisingly common occurrence for Starfleet crews. Between slingshots, Q, Devidians, orbs, Borg, kemocite explosions, rogue temporal agents and stray tachyons stuck in your ablative armour; we estimate 80% of time travel occurrences land officers specifically on Earth in North America in the 100 years between the 1930s and 2030s (give or take).

This is your guide on how to stay undercover until you escape.

What year is this?

Try not to ask this question. It is not something that comes up in regular conversation so it will look weird. Instead, look for a shop with large folded batches of paper on display. These will be newspapers and will invariably show the date in the corner of the front page. 

If you have 24th-century technology, you might also be able to tell from the level of pollution or radiation in the atmosphere, or from astrometric readings.

Continue to check the news for more information about this era, its society and historical events that you may be influencing.

Where are you from?

Try not to be specific lest they know the place and ask if you know someone there. Keep it to a general “up north”. If you’re quite far north already, substitute with “down south”.

If you stand out a fair bit, suggest that you are from France (unless you are in France, of course, but this is statistically unlikely). But do not suggest your Vulcan officer had a rice-picking incident or that you are a secret agent; such stories may be read as too outlandish. Plan your cover as soon as possible and research your era and location to get your facts straight.

Funny looking pyjamas

People of this era consider Starfleet uniforms to look like pyjamas. Go with that and say you had to leave your flat in the middle of the night due to a fire or an argument with the “missus”. This is also a good opportunity to appeal for advice on where you can find replacement clothes. 

If necessary, do not be afraid of stealing period-appropriate clothes to maintain your cover. It may not be moral, but you will be less disruptive to the timeline by stealing a shirt than walking around in full uniform. 

You should avoid high-security places when committing theft without technological aid; interacting with law enforcement can be deadly in this era. This is especially true for officers who cannot pass as humans of the local dominant ethnic group; these individuals should lay low as much as possible.

Non-human officers

The unexpected nature of time travel may preclude preparation for non-humans to hide their more obvious alien features. Some species (Betazoids, Deltans, Baku) can easily pass as humans and will have no problem blending in. Others may pose a challenge. Here are ideas of how to stay covert;

Vulcans, Romulans: Wear a hat, sweatband or long hair to cover your ears and eyebrows.

Bajorans: A band-aid over the nose and pass it off as an injury.

Trill: Pass off your spots as tattoos or wear a hood to cover the sides of your head.

Former Borg: Pass off your implants as jewellery or a body mod. Draw on some extra tattoos to add to the effect. Alternative communities can provide great cover to non-humans due to their non-conformity with the dominant society.

Orions, Andorians, Bolians: Add makeup and glitter to your face and say you’re going to a festival (Andorians should also wear a hat for the antenna - pick a flashy one to add to the festival aesthetic).

Cardassians, Ferengi, Klingons etc.: This is a lot harder. These species should stay hidden as much as possible unless there is a “comic book convention” in town. In this case, steal a lanyard and offer to pose for a photo to anyone who gets suspicious. They will assume you are in an elaborate costume seeking attention

These later examples will protect officers in casual interactions but will be out of place if entering more formal environments.

Zippers

Clothing items and bags on Earth often used a device called a “zipper” formed of metal teeth. You placed the ends together then pulled a tog up to close the two sides of the fabric. You won’t be familiar with these because they have been banned by the 2274 Oddenbery Accords after zippers were instrumental in the collapse of space-time in the Kandari sector that cost 6 million lives. 

It goes without saying that 20th-century humans should not be made aware of the mortal danger zippers pose to the universe or you may alter the timeline. Holographic versions are safe to use if you wish to practice their function and blend in.

Currency

Old Earth still relied on capitalist economics and the use of currency which had no intrinsic value. This currency often took the form of circles of decorated metal and printed slips of paper; in later decades it was also electronic, traded via plastic rectangles. The plastic rectangles will be unobtainable to you (and if stolen, would allow your movements to be tracked) but you should be aware of their purpose. 

Currency was required to even access the most essential services such as shelter and food so your first priority should be acquiring some of these scraps of paper. 

Theft: Ideally you don’t want to steal from individuals. Poverty was widespread and you could impact someone's life significantly. Instead, if safe to do so you should aim to steal from an institution such as a bank’s currency dispenser (such companies would not be impacted by small-scale theft due to something called “insurance”).

Trade: If you have on you something that holds an intrinsic value that does not contain components from the future, consider taking it to a “Porn Shop”. Tell the shop owner you have something to sell and you can obtain legal tender from them. 

Labour: Those at the bottom of the socio-economic hierarchy obtained currency via performing labour for most of the day. Your best bet is irregular work such as cleaning; this will give a very low return of currency despite intense labour but it is your best way to stay under the radar.

Gambling: Humans of this century gambled a great deal more than they had the resources to. If you have an unfair natural advantage in the games they play then you should find people willing to place a wager. Humans bet on anything, from animal races to elections or their whole economy.

Humans were particularly attached to their money and gave it names like “Abe” or “Benjamin” to create a bond with it. You should come up with your own (human) names for any money you obtain to blend in with capitalist exchanges.

Note that this region was fond of “tipping”. This is when low-wage staff were given extra money by the customer beyond the stated value of the service to compensate for their employer paying their staff less than that needed to survive. This will often be indicated by holding out a hand or a quiet cough.

Colourful metaphors

Profanity is common on old Earth in a way that is seen as inappropriately aggressive today. Nobody pays any attention to you if you don't swear every other word. So you may need to employ some yourself in casual conversation to truly blend in. Many words used then are now automatically censored by our universal translators such as ****, ****, ***** him, go **** yourself up your ******* *******, **** ** ***** **** then ***, and *. 

Transport

North America of this era was obsessed with a highly inefficient and dangerous form of personal transport known as the automobile (or “car”). These will likely end up being your primary form of transport and being a proficient driver of these vehicles is important for blending in. So you best spend an hour on the holodeck familiarising yourself with the control scheme of its interior.

Mass transit also existed, though due to chronic underinvestment in the regions you are statistically most likely to arrive in, you may find it difficult to obtain. The most common of these are “buses” which are large automobiles capable of moving around 50-100 people at a time along major routes. Usage will require currency; be sure to check the fare before boarding as some may require “exact change” to be provided.

And the timeline?

Let’s leave that side of things to the boys at the Department for Temporal Investigations. But what we will say is that this era is particularly savage. You may be tempted to right injustices left, right and centre (there are a lot) but if you, say, save a woman from getting killed by one of those deadly automobiles we mentioned then you could find out that the whole timeline is thrown off course. 

So follow these tips, keep your head down and look for a way home. That is unless you cause the death of a pivotal revolutionary figure and need to take their place to restore the timeline. Naturally.

What tips do you have for passing as a local on ancient Earth? Let us know below and Follow us for more essential tips in your Starfleet career!

[strwbrryvagabond]

wanted to get on here and yap about American Girl for some reason today

I'm far from a brand loyalist, and honestly, I was shocked I didn't grow up with the off-brand dolls you could get at Walmart or Target since I grew up poor until recently when my mom informed me that I would save money up for months and months at a time so that I could buy the dolls, and my parents only even actually purchased one for my birthday once we started to do a bit better financially, and after they saw how much I loved and took care of the dolls

I bought accessories for them myself as well, both from the actual company and from other brands like Target and Walmart ones, and even paid my mom to order me a bunk bed for them off of Etsy or something because I was so distraught that they didn't all have their own beds.

Anyways, I know brands are bad and stuff, and American Girl is not without faults and controversies, but tbh those dolls really shaped me as a kid, like I intentionally bought Rebecca Rubin as my first doll when I was a kid after seeing her in a catalog that we got sent by mistake because she was Jewish and looked like me. I had never seen a doll or character, or pretty much anything at that age who was Jewish like me and looked like me, and she wanted to be an actress, and at the time, I also wanted to act

I took that doll very literally everywhere, half the pictures of me from that age, she's tucked under my arm in a different outfit, her hair as well taken care of as I could manage for being so little. I accidentally messed up one of her curls while trying to fix her hair, and I cried for like a solid half an hour until my mom helped me fix it. even after I got other dolls, all of which I still loved and took care of religiously, Rebecca was the one who came everywhere with me

I'd already been a big reader before that, which is a whole other post, but I devoured those books, and I totally blame them for my current love of learning history and historical fiction. and the different dolls were all depicted as activists and feminists, and do not get me wrong here (I say on the 'taking things out of context' website) they were far from perfect with their diversity and activism, like oh jeez they did some very questionable things sometimes, but for the early 2000s and 2010s? revolutionary

the store closest to me closed a little before my birthday last year. I didn't know that it was even happening, and honestly probably still wouldn't have known if I hadn't been shopping with my friends at that mall like two weeks before my birthday since that was the only day we could all make work. Despite not having touched my dolls in a while, everything was super on sale, and I had been planning on taking Rebecca to college with me, so I figured I might buy her an outfit or something.

while the store was pretty ransacked, I was shocked and, no joke, teary-eyed over how many things they had for different cultures, different religions, and how many little girls I saw in there with big starry eyes looking at a doll that looked like them

I ended up buying a Channukkah outfit, and one of the friends I was with convinced me to, against my nature, let them buy a Lunar New Year outfit for me as well, which almost made me cry again. What really did it was seeing one of the previous Girls of the Year, Corrine Tan. Oh my gosh if they had had her when I was a little girl, she would've gone right beside Rebecca with how obsessed I was with her. I don't think I've mentioned it here before, but as a kid, I LOVED Mulan, and when I went to Disney World and the dress up boutique they had, I was DEVASTATED that they didn't have a Mulan costume. I latched onto her so hard for a very similar reason that I latched onto Rebecca so hard; because even though she wasn't the same ethnicity as me, Mulan was Asian, and so am I. I wore out I think three burned copies of that movie I watched it so often

I'm just weirdly sadder than I expected that American Girl is closing so many stores and not making as many sales I guess. I'm really fighting being a brand loyalist right now, because there are about a million other brands that make super similar dolls that I'm sure little kids all over loved, it's just always stuck with me that they at least seem to care about representation in the stories they make for these dolls

I mean, it clearly impacted me growing up, and I think it was for the better. I remember reading Addy's book being one of the first times I was exposed to the idea of children being slaves because they obviously didn't talk about that in an elementary school in the 2010s. I really just wanted to get all of my thoughts out, I've been thinking about it a lot recently since I took Rebecca to college, and I've now been hearing stories from girls who see her in my room about what doll or what toy shaped them as a child. Very excited to dress her up for Channukkah when it comes around, and tbh I've been looking for more outfits for her online. I just want her to be something I take with me throughout my life I guess. I mean, I took her everywhere when I was little, so it kinda feels wrong not to take her with me on this super big part of my life.

yeah anyways uh, if you had one of these dolls go... idk kiss em on the forehead or something. remind the toys that shaped you that you love them for what they did for you and all that. yap session over

[irish-dress-history]

I’m wondering if you have any examples of Irish clothing from the early 1600s (around 1610-1615)? I haven’t been able to find much from this era so I’d appreciate any sources or museum collections that you could recommend.

Starting this out with the caveat that if you're looking for the same level of detail and precision that we have for English dress history in this period, you are going to be disappointed. The types of English primary sources we have for this period (well-dated detailed paintings, well-preserved rich-people clothing, wills, printed books, etc) just don't exist for Ireland. There also seems to be much less research interest in 16th-17th c. Irish dress history, so there isn't nearly as much for secondary sources (books, articles etc.).

You don't mention if you are interested in a specific region in Ireland. Ireland in the early 17th c. was a pretty heterogeneous place. People in Dublin and Waterford wore English-influenced styles. According to British-appointed solicitor-general Sir John Davies, by 1606 a few of the wealthier people in Connacht had started wearing English dress, but many others were still wearing Irish clothing. Ulster was a mix of Irish who were wearing Irish dress and incoming English and lowland Scots settlers.

All of the extant Irish clothing I know of from the early 17th c. comes from either bogs or archaeological excavations. It looks like you've already seen my post on extant garments at the NMI. The NMI also has a couple of felt hats that might be early 17th c. This one is from Knockfola, Co. Donegal. It originally had a decorative cord or band where the pale line is:

There are also another cóta mór and brat, found on a bog body from Leigh, Co. Tipperary, which I don't think the NMI has on display. I did not bother to include them in my post, because they are so similar to the ones from Killery, Co. Sligo, but the fact that these have been found in multiple places suggests that they were common, widely-used garments.

The other major garment-find from this period is the Dungiven outfit which is in the Ulster Museum. a short video The bright blue thread was added by a modern conservator; it's not original. (Side note: The identification of this outfit has gotten unfortunately politicized. Tartan trews were worn by both the Irish and the Scots during the 17th century (McClintock 1943, Dunlevy 1989). The presence of tartan should not be used to draw conclusions about the ethnicity of the wearer.) The primary publication for this outfit:

Henshall, Audrey, Seaby, Wilfred A., Lucas, A. T., Smith, A. G., and Connor, A. (1961). The Dungiven Costume. Ulster Journal of Archaeology, 24/25, 119-142. https://www.jstor.org/stable/20627382

The one other reasonably-well preserved outfit that has published on is from a child burial from Emlagh, Co. Kerry, now at University College Cork. Shee and O'Kelly give it a late 17th c date, but they largely base this date on the presence of a rather generic-looking comb. IMO the outfit could easily be early 17th c.

The Emlagh gown, photographed on a living 8-year-old child who was wearing a sweater and skirt underneath. (The 1960s was a different time.)

The bodice has a wrap-front closure with a back and button-up sleeves similar in cut to the Killery cóta mór. The skirt is a pleated rectangle with the pleats sewn in vertically, somewhat like the Shinrone gown. Publication:

Shee, E. and O'Kelly, M. (1966). A Clothed Burial from Emlagh, near Dingle. Journal of the Cork Historical and Archaeological Society, 71(213), 81-91.

There are also, frustratingly, a bunch of fragmentary clothing finds at the NMI which might be 17th c, but no one seems to care enough to do publications on them, and NMI Archaeology still does not have their collection on-line, so they are useless to us.

The typical Irish shoe for this period is known as a brogue (also called a Lucas type 5 by archaeologists). broguesandshoes.com has photos, a pattern, and construction information.

Unfortunately, the illustrations from Speed's map are the only images I know of from this specific period.

If you want details on what materials were used, I recommend Susan Flavin's dissertation. It's about the 16th c. economy, but things didn't change that much between 1599 and 1601. free download here

If you don't mind wading through early modern English and a bit of period-typical prejudice, I recommend reading A Discourse of Ireland, by Luke Gernon written in 1620. His description of Irish clothing starts halfway down p. 356.

Finally, if you can find them, Dress in Ireland by Mairead Dunlevy (1st ed. 1989) and Old Irish and Highland Dress by H. F. McClintock (1st ed. 1943, 2nd ed. 1950) are the best books I know of for this period.

[lying00]

It's giving yellow fever

In the book Korean pop culture beyond Asia: race and reception, edited by David C Oh and Benjamin M Han, in chapter 7 “I was probably Korean in a previous life: Transracial Jokes and Fantasies of Hallyu Fans,” Author Irina Lyan discusses the phenomenon of non-Korean fans joking about being “Korean in another life” or “being half Korean.” This reminded me of a different (and I would claim equally) problematic phenomenon referred to as “race change to another/Asian” or RCTA. I became aware of this through TikTok a few years ago, circa 2021. Those who identify with this RCTA status claim to transition to another racial identity. Individuals would post “update” pictures of themselves through their “transition,” showing that through lifestyle changes (which I cannot even begin to guess the nature of), their skin color has begun to shift as well as their physical features. People in this community would share their “transitions” with others also in this group who supported them, and thus, the encouragement motivated these people to continue, often despite repeated disapproval of POC. 

As I have stated before, I (and many other POC) find this deeply disturbing, objectifying, frustrating, and mocking. In many cases, the individual cherry picks what they believe to be the "aesthetic" aspects of a culture or ethnic group and ignores unattractive qualities. It irks me especially when White Americans strive to appear generically Asian for social gain or profit and then are able to go about much of their lives with full white privilege. Dismissing the racism that many Asian people in America experience (especially since the pandemic) is explicitly harmful and often provides non-POC a sense of absolution in their passive participation in a society that favors White citizens. That’s the model minority effect. In class, we also brought up the phenomenon of “Asian fishers,” or those who use makeup and mannerisms to appear, perhaps ambiguously Asian. While Asian fishers generally do not self-identify as Asian fishers, the effect is much the same as RCTA people. In both instances, a person is essentially wearing a costume of an ethnicity that is not their own. When the individual is able to shed that persona at the end of the day and continue with White societal privileges, it undermines and discounts the real issues that POC face systemically. 

I can only speculate as to why someone would want to adopt a persona of a minoritized group. I believe that some of us have cynically attributed this to those individuals having a victim complex of some sort. I think that in rare cases, that may hold an ounce of truth, but perhaps our classmate’s idea that White Americans often feel a disconnect with any particular culture, and therefore seek that sense of communication, is more accurate. 

[kirafier]

Kichka

Sometimes I am amazed at my persistence when I draw. ":3

I love ethnic and historical costumes and jewelry, this drawing was my training in hand detailing as 90% of the details are hand drawn and the rest are brushes that I made myself.

Headdress. Kichka is an ancient Old Russian female headdress worn by both married women and brides. Kichka were different shapes and sizes, such kichka as on the art is called horned kiska, which is the rarest. The kichka was mostly worn in the south of Russia, in the Tambov and Ryazan regions. Horns are one of the pagan symbols of fertility like the goddess Mokosh and the god Veles. They were believed to bring a woman good luck. Because of this, the Orthodox Church disliked this headdress, but women to the last wore this headdress, but unfortunately this tradition of wearing a kichka died.

Dress. Actually on the art should have been a traditional outfit of the Ryazan bride, but at the last moment I changed my mind and decided to add something from myself. By origin, I'm half Belorussian, but unfortunately only recently I've become interested in my second homeland and learn a lot of interesting things. This outfit is a traditional belarusian dress with traditional belarusian ornaments that I found in books. It was a pleasure for me to draw these patterns, to look closely into them and recognize their meaning.

The image of this girl originally implied a mixture of two cultures and nationalities, as in me there are two of these cultures.

ART (c) MINE

[drarry-soulmates]

Thoughts on HBO casting (& rant)!

Alastair Stout (Ron):

He's literally perfect. Red-head, FRECKLES(!!--something Rupert lacked), and blue eyes.

Dominic McLaughlin (Harry):

To me, he was the most disappointing of the trio. He's again, another brunette with blue eyes like Radcliffe. I'm really surprised the focus was less on this, and more on the POC Hermione actress... but then, with the world as it is, I shouldn't have been. I really hope HBO gives him a wig and contacts! That's an easy costume fix, so i'm not too worried.

Arabella Stanton (Hermione):

She's honestly perfecttttt! Like, way better than Emma (hello, natural buck teeth???), naturally frizzy hair? She does NOT deserve all the hate she got from grown-ass adults. She is a CHILD! (Yeah, i know book!Hermione was a white chick... but her ethicity literally doesn't affect the storyline lol.. unlike the next actor...)

Paapa Essiedu (Snape):

At first, I was really upset at this casting becos it would impact the storyline/viewer perception of the character!!! @_@

But then, there's an easy fix: make one of the Mauraders also black to take the spotlight off his ethnicity, so that the Mauraders won't be seen as a bunch of racists.

Even if they don't (likelihood low seeing how they're picking based solely on acting and not strategic casting), it's still better than the movie's portrayal... because he's the correct age. We'll get to why that trumps ethicity in a second.

Movie-only fans are unaware that book!Snape and movie!Snape were worlds apart in personality.... The movies did a terrible job at portraying Snape the way he was written. in the books, he came off way more erratic.... Fretting, screaming, etc...

Movie!Snape was my bestie's fave character.... then she read the books and now hates him. Reasoning? His dramatic personality shift lol. Essentially, she dislikes canon Snape and prefers a fan-rendering (the HP producer was a huge fan and drastically changed a few other characters as well, like Ron and Hermione, but that's a topic for another time.)

Now to his age (which they fucked up for all the adults incl Sirius and Lupin, and Harry's 21 yo parents.)

Guys.

Age matters way more than ethnicity in movies/tv shows.

Proof: In Supernatural, there's this character named Mary, the Winchester's mom. She died at 28 but was resurrected.... except they used a 50 yo actress to play this 28 yo woman. (Like using a 50 yo man, Alan, to play a 32 yo character.)

But so what? you might be thinking. It's not like that changed the storyline right??

WRONG!

All the characters/viewers began treating her like she was 50. A ton of fans disliked her bc she was making 'illogical' choices (like... maybe ones a 28 yo would make??)

But then, proof the producers also forgot: she began dating a 45 yo, then 60 yo man! Like, bruhhhh. She is mentally & physically (in canon) 28!!!!! (Or maybe at that point 30.) All the characters on the show were not supposed to see 50 yo Sam Smith, but 28-30 yo YOUNG Mary Winchester.... Yet.. no one did apparently, because no one batted an eye, not even her 45 yo sons, who'd begun treating her like she was more knowledgeable than them... Like, no she is not. In the show canon, she supposedly looks like she's 28 to them.... But they obviosuly weren't treating her like that's what they saw (BECAUSE THE ACTRESS WAS 50). Like, boys, I know she's your mom but y'all have waayyyyy more life exp than her. She should have been treated more on par with their good but very capable friend Charlie (who they see as their little sister), who coincidentally, was also 28 when Mary was resurrected.

So all movie fans who are boycotting the show specifically due to Snape being black are hypocrites. How come y'all were ok with him when he was 50? When his personality was SO STARKLY different, enough that he went from fave movie character to hated book character for my friend?? Real quiet then, huh? lol. Well, if you want book!accurate, read the books. Because neither the show or the movies were book-accurate. I don't consider either canon at all.