#eckhaus latta show

[judith-orshalimian]

Eckhaus Latta Fall/Winter 2022-23!

[sersh]

LAUREN MAYBERRY Attending the Eckhaus Latta show at New York Fashion Week, February 10th 2024

[aagdolla]

Street style at Eckhaus Latta FW24 fashion show during New York Fashion Week February, 2024.

[rianphin]

me at eckhaus latta runway show ph by aiden

[dykehayleywilliams]

[springw6ter]

Hi (nyfw thoughts)

Ok so first I just want to say that this fashion week was so boring and really sums up the kind of good idea drought we’re living in. BUT there was a fair share of discussion over some things so! instead of trying to fit my thoughts about everything on the app formerly known as twitter, I’m just gonna tell y’all here.

Shows talked about in this post; Proenza Schouler, Eckhaus Latta, AREA, Luar, Helmut Lang, Elena Velez and Tory Burch

Proenza Schouler

There’s no way Proenza was going to ruffle any feathers this season. They have a loyal following (which I’m sure has nothing to do with the celebrity affiliations of the brand) and a consistent history of people pleasing so they’ll always get their praise from Vogue. They dropped a new monogram which is the only “newness” they wanted to introduce. Jack McCollough said they wanted to continue last seasons narrative and they sure did! (Only thing different was no Sevigny). The clothes are obviously well made and evoke wealth in that special kind of iykyk way. Many people said this looked more like Helmut Lang than Helmut lang did (I’ll get to that later) and they’re not entirely wrong. Not gonna act like I wouldn’t wear this collection but definitely nothing groundbreaking.

Eckhaus Latta

Eckhaus latta is a brand that has always had a special place in my heart (maybe because I’m from the city that the two designers met and started the brand together in)(maybe). My style has definitely evolved since I first became aware of the brand but I’m always interested in what they’re doing. This season they got experimental! They worked with a 3D printing company named “Unspun” where they came up with jeans made from all different materials like hardware store twine and ikea plastic bags. The way they combined tech innovation and sustainability is not just commendable, it’s very forward thinking, which is a staple in the brands identity. With that being said some of the collection felt directionless in comparison to all of the innovation. The sheer (which dawned their new EL monogram) was very MNZ store to me but not in a bad way. I like that they’re not trying to be trendy and come up with new things however a-lot of brands were doing that so it makes me wonder if that’s a good thing or not.

AREA

I loved their modern Stone Age ladies. I think it was one of the only luxury focused shows where I was like wow! This is different. The fur printed coats were so gaudy and held its shape in the way good ol’ fur coats used to. I think this collection was really cohesive, adventurous, new. Everyone saw Saweetie wear it at the VMAs and even the unfashionable general public could see the yabba dabba reference. The prehistoric influence was chosen because as Piotrek Panscyzk said “pelts and bones were the first things humans had to build an identity around”. There’s definitely a case for a narrative about how much luxury (the hunger, the status) mirrors pre historic, pre civilized behaviors.

Luar

Raul Lopez is a diamond. This collection kind of came of as a continuation of last season as well but I like this brand so much that it feels good to me. I feel like Raul is constantly playing with this really restrictive, God-fearing way of being and an inhibition-less eternality. Padded shoulders, the top draped from the eyewear, perfect collared shirts, jeans and leather, it had all the perfect Luar moments for me. No notes.

Ok.. now on to the “controversial” shows

Helmut Lang

When Peter Do was announced as the new creative director of Helmut Lang, everyone rejoiced. Why? His strengths as a designer seemed like a natural fit for the brand. Expert tailoring, black and white as a main color palette, maybe a little overlap in philosophy.. but as the outfits came out people’s reactions… were… unfavorable to say the least. People saw the reference to key Lang moments like seat belt bondage, the use of Ocean Vuongs poetry (which I felt was terribly misunderstood), the classic button up and jeans as disappointing instead of nostalgic. For me, personally, I think everyone’s expectations were rooted in something that Peter Do could not have delivered. That expectation being Helmut Lang himself. People saw Do as the second-coming and that’s just the truth but where do we draw the line with our expectations on reliving the past and how do we honor the kind of openness necessary to evolution? I myself had to sit with the collection and came to the conclusion that maybe Peter is just defining a clear end to the Helmut era of yesterday and the start of his own journey now. After closely looking at the collection and it’s details you can see how wonderful the clothes really are. It is everyone’s responsibility to question and examine the things they “care” about and I think this fashion public is not patient enough for that. It wasn’t the greatest debut but it also wasn’t the worst. Anyway we’ll see what comes next.

Elena Velez

Mud gate ss24! Since her NYT article last year, people have been really fed up with Elena (I learned only after the mud fight started to circulate) and she doesn’t really seem to mind, she seems to like it actually. She argues online, she argues IN lines, she doesn’t pay people adequately and the list apparently goes on and on. This collection is called “the longhouse” and in her press release she says a lot of things about the commercialization, sanitization, condemning and control of womanhood, she talks about anti-heroines and contemporary female evil (which she loves to embody I guess) and she says that this show was ritualistic catharsis from oversocialization. I think it’s pretentious when someone has to use so many complex, institutionalized words to convey their message. She’s speaking in code. To be honest I like her clothes but I don’t think her designs are that original. I really want to raise the question who does her message benefit? We should all be allowed our multiplicity in this life, that’s true, but being a bad person in practice is something I’m personally not attracted to. I’m a little confused but it is what it is.

SPECIAL SHOUT OUT TO TORY BURCH!!!!

Who I think should be receiving a cease and desist from Miuccia Prada any moment now. This collection is such a departure from the Tory Burch we all grew up with. This must be that post divorce clarity. I like it! It’s 60s. It’s Prada. It’s miu miu. It’s Tory Burch now too!

If you made it this far I really appreciate you ♡ this was just for ki’s sake. It’s not my most critical thinking to date but there was discussion and I loved that. I wanted to contribute and this was the best way I could think of. Lmk if I should do this again with lfw!!

[charlotteswebbbbb]

What’s the vibe? #35

News:

Sarah Burton is leaving Alexander McQueen at the end of this month. End of an era!!

New York Fashion Week just passed, sorry will be running through the good looks another time - terms to think about. Flaneur-core with a side of intellectualism (Helmut Lang, Proenza Scholar), princess at work/Practical princess (Sandy Liang, Mirror Palais), "In-Dario-Argento-World" - slick, but saturated colours (Coach). Earth Child rave (Collina Strada, Eckhaus Latta).

Design Director at Prada and Miu Miu Fabio Zambernardi, has decided to leave the Prada Group after approx 40 years (since 1981) at the company. What could the future of both of those brands hold? What would it look like if Miuccia retired?

Ezra Collective won the Mercury Prize 2023.

Coco Gauff won the US Open 2023!! Woop! Love the New Balance 2 piece also - she won in the red version.

There's been a lot of climate related events in the world - Morocco earthquake, Greece/China flooding, heatwaves in the Western Hemisphere in September - I really can't imagine that people will continue to ignore it when it happens every summer now. I do think we need to adapt quickly - in natural ways (modifying houses and buildings for air, doing less, finding ways to cool our bodies etc) and younger people will be speaking up about it (even during the US Open women single semi final!) or finding orgs that align with sustainable lifestyles. This might be jarring for a while but honestly....we need to get everyone on board and find ways to make sustainability sexy and engage with the masses.

Also related: If people are avoiding outdoors, what healthy activities can they do indoors? (That isn't doom scrolling.)

For NYFW, Chanel created "Lucky Chance Diner", a food popup to celebrate the launch of CHANCE EAU FRAÎCHE, their new Eau de Parfum. This diner also serves ice cream and lasts from the 8-10th September.

Interesting product of the week:

Made me think about how many people may just travel to meet their friends, or travel with friends and this becomes a convenient travel companion. This is also related to the flux and movement of people within the city. It's a screen that's easy to pack away in case of (unstable) housing which many young people in the UK live in due to lack of rent controls. Bit of a conceptual reach but definitely designed for easy packing.

Beauty moodboard - hair by @joelforman:

New albums by James Blake, Tirzah, Romy, Gaika, Olivia Rodrigo

Reading List:

[inthepynck]

The Thom Browne Fall 2023 You'll Never Forget

Thom Browne’s choice of The Shed, New York City’s multidisciplinary cultural destination, proved to be especially apt for his collection this season. In one of the sprawling gallery spaces, guests were greeted by a dream-like, all-grey installation featuring a propeller plane crashed into the sand under a sea of stars and planets, all situated upon a larger-than-life clock face, as its movement could be heard ticking along.

For the choicest pics from New York Fashion Show see Below:

[lecameleontv]

Samedi 12 février 2023, l’acteur Jon Gries a défilé en tant que ‘mannequin surprise” durant la Fashion Week de New-York Autonome-Hiver, pour la marque de vêtements Eckhaus Latta, connue pour avoir des modèles représentatifs de la société globale, quels que soient l’âge, le sexe, la taille, la carnation.

L’acteur s’est vu proposer ce défilé par sa compagne, Meghan Roche, qui l’a mis en relation avec l’un des designers de la marque, qu’elle apprécie. 

Mike Eckhaus : “He’s our friend’s boyfriend and he asked to do it,” [...] “But our friend also said, you can reject him, he should feel rejection in the fashion industry.”

La fondatrice de Eckhaus Latta, Zoe Latta,  a commenté aussi. “We’re so touched he wanted to do it,” [...] “We were a little nervous that he would steal the show because he’s major.” [...]  “He’s a wonderful man but it’s not our normal thing to do a celebrity on the runway,” [...] “He just wanted to get into the modeling character.”

Un clin d’oeil a été fait à son rôle dans la mini-série The White Lotus, dont la saison 2 a eu lieu en Italie :

Le New York Times en a profité pour interviewer.... !

NYT : Why did you want to do this?

JG : I liked their brand. They’re independent, and I’ve always had pretty much an independent film career. I’ve been somewhat rogue, so it spoke to me. And also, look at the clothes — they speak for themselves [gesturing to his boots]. They really are great. It’s something I’d never done and something I wanted to try.

NYT : What direction were you given before you hit the runway?

JG : They said, “You’re walking down the streets of New York, and your mind is somewhere else.” And I said, “You mean like you’re listening to headphones?” And they said, “Exactly.”

NYT : So you’ve never done this before, but are you a fashion guy?

JG : Not really, no. I’m aware of it, but I buy old clothes. I wear only corduroy pants. But many, many years ago, I did a thing in Los Angeles magazine where I wore Prada. I remember putting on the pants, and they were lined, and they were so cozy. It was like, Oh, this is what first class is.

NYT : How have you felt about the reaction to the show? You were in the second season for only a few episodes, but you played a major sinister role.

JG : This is the beauty of Mike White [the show’s creator]. It’s also extremely subjective. This is what Tanya thinks. When Portia says to her, “Hey, something’s afloat.” Is it really?

OK: gun, rope, tape. Would they really need all that? All they’ve got to do is push her off the boat out in the ocean, and, “Oh, she fell overboard.” You know what I mean? Mike is so crafty, how he kind of leaves it open. Even when she’s doing the shooting, it’s from her perspective because we’re in her mind, and she thinks something’s up.

NYT : Are you going to be in the next season?

JG : That I don’t know, honestly. Mike White does what Mike White does. When he was writing Season 2, I got a text from him — that was how I found out. He said, Are you available? I said, Anytime, anywhere. He could be going back in time, you never know. There’s still a way to get Tanya in.

sources : made, New York Times, noua-unu, @BinkleyOnStyle, @Cathaleen_Chen, dazeddigital.com, hommegirls,@theprophetpizza,@highsnobiety, @VVFriedman, wwd.com, you_hadid_me_at_hello et eckhaus_latta

Photos : @ex_florist et Nina Westervelt/WWD via Getty Images et Cris Fragkou - Détail de la tenue portée par l’acteur :

Video : @mins_____

Je ne pensais jamais pouvoir écrire ça un jour^^... mais il rejoint ainsi l’acteur James Denton avec les marques Serengeti et Daniel Hechter , ainsi que son ami Leland Orser ... et l’actrice Pamela Gidley avant sa carrière d’actrice.

L’acteur a de nouveau accepté d’être mannequin pour la marque Zankov et Homme +. Et en 2024, il tourne un spot publicitaire humoristique pour la marque, en rendant hommage à son personnage populaire du film Napoleon Dynamite.

Pensées à l’Episode 2.04 :)

Alias Broots dans la série Le Caméléon.

[sonnyphotos]

Eckhaus Latta AW2425 Fashion Show New York Backstage https://sonnyphotos.com/2024/02/eckhaus-latta-aw2425-fashion-show-new-york-backstage

[unit2beth]

SS24 Trends

Roses

Simone Rocha Rolf Ekroth

Aprons/Pinafores

Hermès. Christian Dior

Sheer Fabric

PRISCAvera Eckhaus Latta

Blazers

Balmain BOTTER

Versace. (2023). Versace Spring-Summer 2024 | Fashion Show | Versace. [Online]. YouTube. Last Updated: 22 September 2023. Available at: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=EgQ81SK1wfc&pp=ygUMVmVyc2FjZSBzczI0 [Accessed 1 February 2024].

Denim

KSENIASCHNAIDER. AKNVAS

FF Channel. (2023). Ferrari | Spring Summer 2024 | Full Show. [Online]. YouTube. Last Updated: 23 September 2023. Available at: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ZIxMDU2ehUI&pp=ygUMZmVycmFyaSBzczI0 [Accessed 1 February 2024]

Ruffles

Cecilie Bahnsen. Les Benjamins

ShowStudio. (2023). SUSAN FANG S/S 24 WOMENSWEAR. [Online]. SHOWStudio. Last Updated: 16 September 2023. Available at: https://www.showstudio.com/collections/spring-summer-2024/susan-fang-ss-24 [Accessed 1 February 2024].

This website shows photographs from Susan Fangs ss24 runway show. I really liked looking at her collection because in my opinion it is very beautiful and dainty. I also love the colour palette she used. Although I used Susan Fangs work as an example for ruffles some of the garments from this collection are also examples of the trend sheer fabric.

[aagdolla]

Street style at the Eckhaus Latta FW24 fashion show during New York Fashion Week February, 2024.

[rianphin]

eckhaus latta show notes

[dykehayleywilliams]

[arguablysustainable]

Recapping Fashion's Biggest Events of the Year: Fashion Week and Their Involvement in Sustainability

Fashion Week...the Superbowl of fashion. Taking place only twice a year, fashion week can make or break a brand's reputation almost instantly. Designers work day after day to perfect their collections, from selecting textiles and materials, designing, pattern-making, and all the way down to constructing. Most of us don't get to see this process where we are only shown the final product. Therefore, we aren't exposed to the specific materials that the brands use in their collections and what working standards the garment workers work in to produce the final product seen on the glamorous runways.

While we idolize and put our beloved fashion brands on a pedestal, counting down the hours to watch the show stream (or for some lucky few who get to watch the show in live action...jealous!), how aware are we of the brand's involvement in sustainability? Do their latest collections practice sustainability as the fight for climate change has deeply infiltrated the industry? Stay tuned Arguablysustainable readers as we take you through a recap of Fashion Week and which brands focused their collections on sustainability.

1. Stella McCartney

The London based designer overtime has proven to be one of leading designer brands that focuses on sustainability and climate change through her innovative and eco-conscious collections. Her most recent collection doesn't defer from her reputation as models were seen walking down the runway sporting garments made from Kelsun, a seaweed-based fiber that is reported to have a lower carbon footprint compared to conventional fibers. McCartney also introduced 'Stella's Sustainable Marketplace' during the show, a display of "her eco-minded partners, as well as a vintage clothes and record stall, to allow people to learn about the brand's sustainability efforts".

2. Maria McManus

Maria McManus, an Irish-born designer had quite a bit to talk about in regards to her collection's involvement in sustainability this past Fashion Week. During the end of her show, she took time to go into detail of the sustainable materials that she used to make her designs. Designs made with recycled cashmere, organic cotton blends, recycled plastic sequins, and responsibly farmed tree pulp were only several of the sustainable sources McManus used in her Spring 2024 collection.

3. Eckhaus Latta

Eckhaus Latta's recent Spring 2024 collection focuses on steering away from overproduction within the industry. Latta partnered with the textile innovation studio and custom denim label that focuses on finding ways "to develop and apply innovative hardware and software toward smarter apparel production". Through their partnership, Latta produced a collection that featured garments made from 3D woven yarn.

4. Benedicte Laloux for ICICLE

After showcasing their collection at Shanghai Fashion Week, ICICLE has proven that they too earn a spot at the dinner table. The Chinese Fashion Label debuted their Spring 2024 collection that showcased garments constructed from natural materials like Linen, Hemp, and Guandong Gauze, a Chinese yam juice-dyed silk. ICICLE prides their brand as a sustainable fashion haus as they wish to focus on the infinite beauties nature has to offer through their collections.

As consumers are becoming more aware of their impact on the climate and Earth, we are starting to become more conscious of what brands to follow and lookout for. Fashion week allows us viewers to get a first view and depict which brands follow the sustainability standard and which ones fall beneath the cracks.

Want more? Tune in next week to learn more about the negative impacts of sweatshops.

Written by Julia Catipon

Keep up to date with us at Arguablysustainable for more sustainable news and tips in fashion.

[charlotteswebbbbb]

What's the vibe? #54

Supreme is collaborating with MM6.

Cote D'Ivoire won AFCON on Sunday.

2024 LVMH Semi Finalists have been announced.

NYFW FW24:

I think this is slowly becoming my favourite Fashion Week - away from the hype and conglomerate madness, it's about the weird, the experimental.

INTERVENTION: Mall of Anonymous  (Berlin btw) by Shayne Oliver featuring Anonymous Club, Olly Shinder `refucked by NOVACAINE,´ a selection of Hood By Air ‘MUSEUM’ archive pieces and Gerrit Jacob. Presented by Reference Studios as part of Berlin Fashion Week, set design by Tor Studio.

Sandy Liang - 10th year anniversary of the brand - it's about going from girlhood to womanhood

Helmut Lang - again Peter creates another collection about the immigrant experience - the Ghana Must Go prints, the bubble wrap texture, the body as a travelling vessel - protect and project

Collina Strada - titled "STRONGER" - pushing back against maybe weaker depictions of women

Proenza Schouler

Eckhaus Latta - beauty by Daniel Sallstrom

About the self - some text from their show notes

"YOU ARE A LOGO

BE THE LOGO

MAYBE YES MAYBE NO

I WANT TO PREACH WITHOUT SPEAKING

AND NO LONGER FEEL

THE TIGHTENING OF MY CHEST

WHEN THE IDEA OF TIME

COMES INTO MY BODY

HOLDING THE DOOR FOR A GHOST

IN THE TECHNOCRACY

IT IS ALL SPINNING

THE HOLES ARE GOOD

(HOW MANY HOLES IS TOO MANY HOLES?)

YOU LIKE THESE HOLES?"

Things to look forward to culturally?

Beyonce! Going cowboy!

Museum as performance space - gaining legitimacy in one of a kind performances in a unique setting. I guess similar to what the ICA are doing but they're getting the good stuff in terms of curation.

I think that alongside the high costs of everything, the audience that artists have to deal with today are much more either segregated class-wise or not used to seeing continuous art and being able to evaluate it/ seeing it as a "little treat". (see for example: The TikTok kids who saw Steve Lacy or Mitski's current tour) For example, think of any major exhibition today in the UK and the cost of tickets usually range between £16-20 esp London. Meaning people usually see the extremely popular things that have been tried and tested and the more experimental/local/DIY things are left behind. It also means that the general public's tolerance for maybe I'd say the "Avant Garde" has decreased over the past 10 years. If TV is the most accessible medium, think about what's on regular tv sans Netflix (which is already extremely sanitised)...there's this extreme lack of maybe kooky music/culture programming that explores and interviews artists of the day in an accessible way or just regular toned programming which allows people to know about each other (See Raven's Row exhibition from last year?)

Things coming up this year:

Reading List: