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What's the vibe? #96
News:
So really interestingly the animated K-Pop group HUNTR/X reached number 1 on the Billboard Hot 100, which is the first time a girl group has reached number 1 since Destiny's Child's Bootylicious in 2001. Scary.
In the UK, they're competing with Chappell Roan (an actual human breathing pop star) for the Number 1 spot this week...
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If you don't know who they are...
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Prince Charles Cinema has applied to re-open the Stratford Picturehouse in East London which closed last year. Technically, this would be in the non-regenerated bit of Stratford but I actually like this more as it wouldn't have to compete with the Everyman in Stratford City and the Vue in the big commercial shopping centre. The cult cinema opening up a second post would be interesting as independent cinemas in London struggle to stay open - we see you Genesis.
Dishoom got investment from basically LVMH.
From The Caterer:
"L Catterton has taken an undisclosed stake in the business ahead of plans to open its first restaurant in the US in 2026. The valuation of Dishoom has not been disclosed but The Sunday Times reports it is thought to be in the region of £300m.
It is the first time Dishoom founders Shamil Thakrar and Kavi Thakrar have brought outside investment into the group since the launch of their debut restaurant in Covent Garden in 2010."
Where we are right now in luxury etcccc, great video by @magideye on dishoom, omakase and the art market :
How we communicate today:
Over the two years, we've seen this twist in the internet where because of the popularity of TikTok and people talking at you, many of the esteemed publications such as The Times or the Financial Times or New Yorker have gotten their writers in front of the camera. It's an awkward job, watching journalists try and whittle down their reviews into soundbites for the short attention spans...
For example:
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I'm intrigued by this comment
I think I'm also interested in how like this traditional career of being behind the typewriter/laptop has now turned into something where you need to look pretty/attractive for people to actually listen to you.
The anonymous writer, even someone like Slutty Chef must have something to attract people to them. Whether that's sexuality, youth, proximity to others...
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Or
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Or.
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So, is this the end of journalism? Less than 10 years ago the Facebook controversy happened which was "pivot to video" and now it feels complete - everything to video and text as the accompaniment. Text becomes something worthless to many and most getting their information from GPT or Claude or videos. It's surface level.
Anyway, this is worth reading if I'm sure there's some more good stuff after the cut:
Great Social Media Stuff I Liked This Weeeeeeeekkkkkkkk!
Love to know what's going on in Manchester
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Also Salute (DJ) is starting his own party.
New Burberry Campaign!!!!!!!
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I love this guys account about things I don't have in my cupboard or just...any restaurant. I love learning and discovering new food spaces.
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This London based creative creating PS1 graphics art...
And this Bergdorf Goodman stylist!
Sustainabilityyyyy Alerttt
Potato head Bali, the hotel and space opened up their own store selling susty homeware.
"Being zero-waste and contributing to a process of local regeneration were similarly important to the founder, and its newly launched collection of objects by long-term collaborator Max Lamb acts as a manifesto of sorts for what Potato Head stands for, and what a model for sustainable manufacturing might look like in the future."
Although, we're in this nostalgia loop (which I think will finish in the next 2 years), hardware and the physical media resurgence has never been written about more. Maybe it's the realisation of the fleeting, emphemeral feeling of current digital media. The waning interest in Netflix movies.
(Something to talk about later is the resurgence of cinema in the shadow of the death of the superhero movie. Marvel and DC are culturally slipping after general audiences care less about established IP and more about new and delicious ideas.)
I even really like this HUF x Tombogo PocketCam, reminiscent of a kid digital camera. This one however has the ability to take photos, videos, an mp3 player and custom branded filters. So basically an adult toy.
Events;
Tate Late x Crystalllmess w/ Squarepusher - 28 August!!
Sustainable Fair this Week:
I actually really like this piece on the Tate - real evaluation on what it means to be a giant art gallery that could be better. (imo the tickets are too expensive and the curating isn't exciting enough but that's just me.)
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What's the vibe? #95
Dead Internet
I don't believe Dead Internet Theory is only a theory. I think in the next 3 years we will see the internet become something so touch and go, with more private spaces for entertainment and longer time use. In this Bloomberg video the journalists discuss that AI is scraping the internet and that people may be more inclined to start using paywalls as a way to stop this, to gatekeep information and allow for the scrapee to be compensated.
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Aside from AI, bots are making up substantial numbers on social media today. Or even just the internet. In a recent Forbes article, Ashley Lutz notes:
"Automated bots now make up more than half of global internet traffic. Bots surpassed human-generated activity for the first time in 2024, according to Imperva, a subsidiary of cybersecurity giant Thales. Imperva, which issues a “Bad Bot report,” found that almost 50% of internet traffic comes from non-human sources, with 20% of that being so-called “bad bots,” prone to a host of malicious activities."
This alongside this revisited article on how during Super Bowl 2025, roughly 76% of X's (formerly known as Twitter) traffic was fake.
"Out of more than 40 million visits from TikTok, only 2.56 percent were determined to be fake. Facebook sent 8.1 million visits and 2.01 percent of the monitored visits were classified as inauthentic. And over on Instagram, only 0.73 percent of the 68,700 visits from the platform were fake.
Tytunovich tells Mashable that it's not out of the ordinary to see spikes in fake traffic on social media platforms during big events like U.S. elections. However, he has never seen anything close to X's 75.85 percent."
Matt Binder also says that this problem isn't just a one time event. So basically one of the biggest real time social media sites is run by bots who are rewarded financially and visually.
It turns our original purpose on the internet to communicate, to learn new things into an experience that no one wants to deal with.
Artists in a Digital World
It's becoming more obvious that there is a divide when it comes to being an artist today. To be successful is to be viral but to be viral is to spend time making 'content' and seeing what works. The IRL artist is essentially a bit of high class, can afford not to promote in that kind of way, maybe gets rewarded for it. This sort of artist is also responsible for the rise in popularity of places like Marseille and The Hamptons.
Basically. Digital artists today must go viral, and there are so many artists who are just constantly attempting by clipping bits of their songs and there are so many. It feels like they don't participate in the IRL building of communities?
Love Jean Luc tho.
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This alongside the fact (nothing new but,) I think there was more pushback towards IMAX's Runway AI Film Festival this year. "Established in 2022, Runway's AIFF is a celebration of the art and artists embracing new and emerging AI tools for filmmaking. This special edition, limited-run IMAX screening brings this year's ten winning films to theatres nationwide. "
Essentially the internet was for information and still is but can lead to disinformation. Which can lead to anger, confusion etc.
Another use of the internet is entertainment. Originally at the beginning of the WWW (World Wide Web) the internet became a part of the monoculture and people to use it to internationally promote themselves because of the lack of borders. Today it's a vehicle for platforms such as Netflix and AppleTV who are creating their own culture and because of their limitations such as lack of physical communal nature it stops there. Less people have seen it, the masses are not going to see it. Today I think the closest things are music (live, streaming, purchase, club) and cinema - regardless of whether it's a niche release or not.
New Luxe
Where are all the British luxury shoppers? In France apparently, in this article by the Retail Gazette, using data from The Times (which is paywalled), British shoppers love tax free shopping and "Paris alone accounting for 75% of spending in the country."
"British shoppers are increasingly turning to VAT-free shopping in the EU, with spending surging to £742m last year — more than five times the £147m recorded in 2021, according to data from the Association of International Retail (AIR).
This sharp rise follows the UK government’s 2021 decision to scrap its VAT-free shopping scheme for international visitors, coinciding with EU countries introducing VAT refunds for British travellers.
The Times reports that spending in the first 22 weeks of 2025 has already grown 16% compared with the same period last year."
Airport Experiences are becoming more luxury to give more to wealthier customers who always have money. This is happening more in the United States and here's a NYT video to show you.
What is the future of luxury? Where are people spending their money? Labubus? What's the next craze?
The crazes of today are so micro: Oakley sunglasses, Phoebe Philo wear, flip flops, the food fetishism
Now we've gone through the searching for your own style. Here is Loic and Osa downloading all the MW hot picks for SS26 if you missed.
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Old Fashion:
Bits and ideas of the aristocratic fashion of the 18th and 19th Century - ruffled necks, beautiful shoes, big skirts, corsets still maybe? Penny loafers still relevant.
Think for menswear: ASAP Rocky and his red Mary Janes, to Bad Bunny at the Happy Gilmore 2 premiere.
Food turns into lifestyle --->
Jolene bread bag, Pophams butter knife, Louis Vuitton takeaway bag, deli and restaurant at 180 Strand
Design = Real Wonder --->
The resurgence of Virgil Abloh (Robin Givan book and Grand Palais exhibit), Frank Ocean opening a store in Hatton Gardens,,,
Then I just really like this....
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and Happy Victims reissue!
"Between 1999 and 2006, before fast fashion and social media changed the world forever, Kyoichi Tsuzuki published 87 instalments of his Happy Victims series in the fashion magazine Ryuko Tsushin. In cramped quarters across Tokyo, these anonymous disciples joyously detailed the ritual and the sacrifice of their brand-name obsessions. A Buddhist monk with a Comme des Garçons shopping habit, an Alexander McQueen collector listening to neighbours through paper-thin walls—photographed at home, their collections before them, Kyoichi’s anti-heroes exist in parallel to the fashion universe of fame, fantasy, and glamour."
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What's the vibe? #94
In The News
Gucci sales are down 25% and Kering is down 15% as a group. The group is going into a new era as it has a CEO change in September to Luca De Meo. Demna will debut his new collection, not next season but the season after in March 2026.
(Prediction that was deleted from last week: New Gucci is going to be everywhere in the Med. I went to this party at a beach in Marseille and young people love a Gucci cap, a Gucci bag, the entry level. I'm sure Demna could sell a million Gucci scarves if he wanted. It's cool but it will definitely get cooler in 2026.)
LVMH is also down 15% and is looking to sell not only Marc Jacobs (for $1B) but their only US hotel El Encanto.
But do you know who's up 9%? Hermes. I also found this post on instagram of an Art School influencer event they did which is very fun.
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Burberry didn't do so bad this quarter. Their festival campaign has helped them bounce back with only 2% down on the quarter with their CEO Joshua Schulman saying “We are appealing to a much broader range of luxury consumers,” with the change in marketing drawing in younger, high-spending extrovert consumers who want to stand out from the crowd, as well as more mature brand loyalists.
Birth Rates:
Whilst the USA's CDC announces that their birthrate is now 1.6 per woman, it's lowest, in this weekend's FT there was a story on how few children there are being enrolled into Chinese kindergartens.
"The contraction of China’s pre-school system is a foretaste of the challenges to come for business and policymakers from China’s demographic decline, which is expected to be one of the most rapid in the world.
China has recorded three consecutive years of population decline to 2024 following the decades-long policy, ended in 2016, that limited many couples to one child."
In the article, a kindergarten owner talks about moving her focus from the young to the old.
"Zhuang Yanfang, an educator and owner of three kindergartens in Jinhua, a city in China’s prosperous coastal Zhejiang province, decided to turn one of her facilities, which at its peak had boasted 270 children, into a 42-bed nursing home in 2023.
“With the birth rate dropping, enrolments had declined,” said Zhuang. She estimated that “90 per cent of private kindergartens have closed” in the rapidly ageing community.
Despite expanding her two remaining kindergartens to provide day care for infants starting from 10 months old, she was not optimistic. The facilities had only about 150 children combined, down from more than 1,000 a few years ago."
What do we do with all our spaces that exist if they're no longer needed? How can society make sure parents are supported if childcare is not as accessible?
Whilst we think about this, the British government is looking to change planning permissions and rules so it's easier to open pubs or music venues in more empty high streets. Changes include:
Government to overhaul planning and licensing rules to make it quicker and easier for new cafes, bars and music venues to open in place of disused shops.
New ‘hospitality zones’ will fast-track permissions for alfresco dining, pubs, bars and street parties.
Reforms will also protect long-standing venues from noise complaints by new developments.
Could this change the dynamics of gentrification in Britain?
**New Things**
New cinema in London for cinephiles and cinefreaks :) The Nickel is a cinema, video shop and bar, a space for nostalgia and exploration in the time of streaming.
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Cool Farms
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JIM LEGXACY, someone who is I would say the face of British music right now with his new album Black British Music. A focus on this sort of nostalgia of the 2000s aesthetically in music videos right now.
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dexter in the newsagent, an up and coming musician. I think most popular on social media but soon to be an IRL sensation.
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Akliah Cohen - a creator renovating their north London home...
https://www.instagram.com/kilahgram/
Wolf Alice, is back with their most recent album, The Clearing.
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Tyler...I forgot to mention Tyler The Creator's new album which came out titled DON'T TAP THE GLASS. He had a statue/sculpture from the album cover at the World Trade Centre and at Barclays Centre to promote.
Here's the music video for the track Stop Playing With Me.
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I've been umming and arrring about who is 2026's male fashion icon and just like I felt Kendrick was this years, I feel like either Tyler or Timmy is next years. But I also feel like Tyler is just on his own wave. Or someone will surprise me like Walter Goggins or something like that.
Tyler's new surprise album has this real, 'lets get loose' feeling. Concept wise this is an album to dance to and I love that he used surveillance culture as a starting point to create something that can allow people to feel more free.
In other news, an American company called Wave have announced their own cheaper camera glasses with an ad that many agree go deeper into surveillance culture with their promotional video.
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At $100 to reserve right now and $300-500 on pre-order and in the future, these glasses are not smart glasses, they're meant for content creation and streaming. Emphasis on this will be the ability to share to TikTok, Twitch and YouTube. The creator class will get their own 2026 version of camcorders to catch every random moment with.
There's currently this fear of AI or technology which is running through mainstream film right now. I think it's so interesting how it could shape how many normal people perceive AI? Not everyone will use Chat GPT or Claude, but many will watch Tom Cruise in Mission Impossible fight the main villain (an AI supercomputer that wants nuclear war) or the new Tron film or the new War of the Worlds film starring Ice Cube.
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War of the Worlds Remake:
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your party and what could happen next election
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Events coming up:
Sarabande's new group exhibition, Sincerely also includes performances, parts (a 1 and 2) and new work from the artists in residence.
Shelltek @ Venue MOT,
Exhibition, Virtual Beauty at Somerset House has now opened. Thematically a mix of technology and challenging beauty standards.
Always Summer Hot Spots
Aside from the unpredictable weather, the Mediterranean area will never suffer. This year Lacoste installed their all day cafe, Cafe Lacoste at the Le Méridien Beach Plaza hotel in Monaco. Truly for the most luxe customers.
Here's a prediction also: Ho Chi Minh city becoming a hot spot of cool as it evolves. It just opened it's first city railway line whilst Popeye highlights it in this months issue.
Harry Styles and his vibrators....
This Derrick Gee interview on SSENSE
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What's the vibe? #92
(originally meant to publish this 2 July 2025)
Hi Hellooo.
Something I forgot to mention last week was that Denmark is now going to allow its citizens to copyright their likeness in a bid to stop deepfakes.
From the Guardian: "It defines a deepfake as a very realistic digital representation of a person, including their appearance and voice.
The changes to Danish copyright law will, once approved, theoretically give people in Denmark the right to demand that online platforms remove such content if it is shared without consent.
It will also cover “realistic, digitally generated imitations” of an artist’s performance without consent. Violation of the proposed rules could result in compensation for those affected.
The government said the new rules would not affect parodies and satire, which would still be permitted."
This could spread to other European countries when Denmark heads the European Commission and shares their plans. I find the UK is a bit behind on this and I do believe that it would make a more safe society if we all owned our copyright to our likeness. Would be so interesting if at birth, your copyright was assigned to you alongside your birth certificate - we're living in the future.
Berlin Fashion Week is the new London Fashion Week?
I've been trying to find that one instagram post about how London is now this place for nostalgia but I've lost it. (the feeling when you see too much on the internet.) London is now culturally this place for nostalgia, London Fashion Week doesn't penetrate as much because of so much. In order to have a healthy artistic ecosystem something has to give. Something has to be accessible - whether that's housing, studio space, tuition but everything here is quite relentless. Help us, Lisa Nandy.
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The German government has locked in. It seeks to define Berlin as a fashion capital alongside cities like Copenhagen and London at the same time. For SS26, they invited influencers, but not just like the influencers who make money but people like Michael Smith who is an avid Rick Owens/Demna-Balenci collector and Kim Russell (and Susie Bubble but she's always at fashion week so).
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I think I was the most interested in Smith's content because he was looking to highlight newer designers, tell us what their ethos is, etc etc.
LOGOMANIA At Fashion Week - who is going to buy this? (Just a question, don't hate me.)
Some links:
and with that how does food culture change in the UK? What does it become? Do we focus on pure good produce or do we make miniature pie and mash? Food for max pleasure.
Also Ozempic can change our ability to smell things in normal ways? Create new addictions.
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What's the vibe? #93
Okay back from holidayyy.
New London bar alert:
Not clear what it is but a bar and nightclub? Cool. 512 Kingsland Road.
New Miu Miu campaign and we love Myha'la!
Beauty giant Ulta acquired Space NK so it's about to become....large in Europe if they can do it!!
So Venice Film Festival is set to have the most interesting line up of the film year. I would like to say this is my top 13:
No Other Choice - dir. Park Chan-wook
Frankenstein - dir. Guillermo Del Toro - Jacob Elordi as the monster baby!!!
Father Mother Sister Brother - dir. Jim Jarmusch - Adam Driver ! Cate Blanchett ! Vicky Krieps !
Bugonia - dir. Yorgos Lanthimos.
The Smashing Machine - dir. Benny Safdie - new A24!
Marc by Sofia - dir. Sofia Coppola - a documentary on Marc Jacobs <3, ultimate Aries
After The Hunt - dir. Luca Guadagnino
Late Fame - dir. Kent Jones - could be nothing but also a Williem Dafoe and Greta Lee staring film??
The Wizard of the Kremlin - dir Olivier Assayas
Jay Kelly - dir. Noah Baumbach - loaded cast w Adam Sandler? and George Clooney
The Voice of Hind Rajab - dir. Kaouther ben Hania
A House of Dynamite - dir. Kathryn Bigelow - stars Idris Elba, Greta Lee
Dead Man's Wire - dir. Gus Van Sant - Al Pacino, Coleman Domingo and Myha'la in a film!! Together!
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OpenAI OpenAI?
According to the Verge: "The mysterious device that OpenAI is cooking up with former Apple designer Jony Ive will be pocket-size, contextually aware, screen-free, and isn’t eyewear"
So it'll be something you can carry around with you, obviously comfortable to hold, maybe with location tracking software that is aware of environments. It'll have to connect to something like a computer or a phone. Less invasive than those Rayban x Meta glasses.
Here's some fun fashion predictions:
With the announcement and release of the Marc Jacobs documentary there will be an appreciation for his old work, new work and him in general. I think the crate diggers will be surprised - we think we know all about Marc but he's full of surprises.
I went to Marseille recently, shocking I know for a Londoner, but found it to be interesting. Obviously it's a city, with functioning public transport, and beaches. But it also has great food, this Mediterranean energy, a thriving creative scene, and food scene. I mean, I saw Nick Grimshaw at BONNIE'S.
Aside from that, I went to this cool beach party and all of the people there were wearing Gucci caps and bags. I know it's very Mediterranean but I predict a renaissance for Gucci (via Demna). If the Marseillaise can wear Gucci, will the Londoners bring that fashion back? It really reminded me of pre 2010s fashion culture but never in a bad way either.
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Scans from Pin Up XXL, Issue 38, Spring Summer 25.
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Scans from Pin Up XXL, Issue 38, Spring Summer 25.
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L'Etiquette Men's, Issue No. 14, Spring Summer 25
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Scans from Numero Art magazine, Issue 16
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Scans from Numero Art magazine, Issue 16
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Scans from Numero Art magazine, Issue 16
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What's the vibe? #91
Glasto:
I think only one performance caught my eye this weekend (aside from Bob Vylan and Glasto/BBC saving their own skin), and I would have to say it's Doechii. So cool, so stylish.
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Aside from that, I really have to say where we are culturally reminds me of the anti-apartheid movement of the 1980s, with cultural icons speaking up and boycotts. Musically, are we in a different moment to Labi Siffre's Something Inside So Strong?
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Music Avoidance?
The US may be becoming a place that artists avoid. Bad Bunny is doing a massive world tour next year, even spending a month in Japan with Spotify but avoiding the US. Jenny Hval, independent artist, has cancelled her US dates. Her statement is vague:
"Friends in North America — I’ve got some unfortunate news. For various reasons I’m not able to travel to North America in September, and so we have had to cancel the tour we had planned."
In the Pitchfork article, the publication also notes that other artists have struggled to get visas on time. She last toured NA in 2022 which was obviously a different climate.
The US also cancelling Bob Vylan's artist visa shows them to be in a more strict way of dealing with artists at the moment. In the future, will music and culture be siloed, with only certain artists doing American tours? What other country may come out on top?
Something close? France producing stars like Theodora, Aya Nakamura, Yseult and Oklou.
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I think I posted this before but this is a great primer on offline popular artists - not everything is seen online!!! Go outside, find a local club you like, and vibe.
BTS have also completed their military service and are looking to release an album next year, Spring 2026....I've always wondered with Kpop stars, can they still keep the initial hype? Like will they be invited to fashion shows like the new gen (Tomorrow X Together were at the Dior SS26 show) that took their slot whilst they were doing national service?
Hot Weather, anyone?
The usually super enjoyable season of Summer has now changed into something different. For many in the British city, it's an uncomfortable time of heat, train cancellations, and opening windows to release hot air from our hot houses. The Met Office confirmed it was "England’s warmest June on record and the UK’s second warmest since 1884" whilst Reuters said that "Spain confirmed its hottest June on record, while temperatures passed 40 degrees Celsius (104°F) in some of its cities on Tuesday."
Alongside this:
Adaptation is extremely needed - how do we keep our cities cool, energy sustainable to fuel the extra aircon and everyone happy? As with very hot weather, also comes very heavy rainfall, mudslides, flooding.
Aircon as the new British experience? Hate to talk about holidays but with the wildfires in the Scottish Highlands, Turkey and Spain, places like Denmark, Singapore and other countries that are used to the hot weather (w/ aircon) become refuge?
Central and Northern Europe becoming alluring but even places like Vienna are going to reach 38 degrees this week and probably again during the rest of the season.
from the Guardian live-blog:
Now our highest temps are pushing higher and the winters are either extreme (rain, cold, damp) or warmer than usual which is hard to predict. The new normal will change our behaviours in what we eat, as prices of food rise due to poor crops, where we go (to work, on holiday), what time we do things (work early in the morning, and afternoon and possibly night.) Also manual fans becoming fashion statements and electric fans making you look futuristic.
Night time economies is still something we could think about in general as it could become more popular during the summer if there is a stoppage in work during the hottest hours of the day (for example 11am to 3pm).
High Fashionnnn
This Mango ad is so......high fashion coded?
Behind the Scenes at Dior by Loic Prigentttttt
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Tattoo Me!
This great article on British chefs and tats.
With some interesting tattoo tourism info....From Future Labs:
"A growing number of studios exist as a complement to fashion and accessories retail, such as UK jewellery brand Astrid & Miyu’s fine line tattoo services and even coffee chains, as recently seen with Blank Street’s tattoo pop-up in the UK, placing tattoos in the same ‘little treat’ bracket as clothing and iced lattes.
For the hospitality market, there is a similar opportunity to seize upon guests seeking international adventures or new cultural experiences by integrating ink into their services alongside traditional spa services and guest entertainment.
Today, 52% of Gen Z say they splurge on experiences when travelling (source: McKinsey & Co and Skift). Some travellers collect tattoos like passport stamps, with a new design for each location they visit (see TikTok). Others describe them as suitcase-friendly souvenirs, requiring zero luggage room, but carried with them long after their trip (source: TikTok).
But local residents are just as likely to participate in experiences offered at travel destinations, making in-house tattoo studios and related experiences an interesting opportunity for hotels to welcome, engage and inform the surrounding community (source: McKinsey & Co and Skift)."
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Edges of Ailey, Whitney Museum, December 2024.
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Loewe Crafted World Exhibition in Tokyo (near Harajuku :)), April 2025.
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Martine Syms: TOTAL @ Lafayettes Anticipations, 2025
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Leigh Bowery @ Tate Modern, 2025
*sorry, need to come back here and fill in credits but enjoy for now*
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Stephen Jones, Chapeau D'Artiste @ Palais Galleria
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