#ds-durga-burning-barbershop

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[ramlightly]

Oh Boy! I'm rubbing my hands together. Here's a few for you.

Dandelion: lots of options, here. Personally, I'd say a classic fougere is a good basis. These are kind of "old fashioned" men's scents with a base of oakmoss combined w hay, lavender, citrus, and occasional spices.

Lots of variation here, so you could probably have one that had topnotes of bergamot with the base of oakmoss and clove for sweetness. I'd personally add smoke or deep wood notes, because... Demon. An actual example of this is DS and Durga's Burning Barbershop, which is pricey but sticks in your brain after you smell it.

Other than that for Mr. Dandelion, I'd say juniper, basalm (piney), bergamot, and other ozonic, sharp scents. Martini-type deal, you know? Maybe it's a daytime/nighttime split.

Fr. Basil: not gonna lie, I googled 1880s men's scents, and most are a lot chiller than what I noted for Dandelion. Lots of water based scents, using floral waters. A big one is lavender, which remains popular today in some men's scents, and orange blossom. Personally, I'd say lavender and wood- simple, classic, masculine but refined. Or, yaknow, church incense does tend to stick to you! (I don't have any specific references for this one, but Alkemia perfumes has a bunch of interesting incense scents)

Lapis: something expensive. Saffron, almond, ambergris. The scent that comes immediately to mind is Baccarat Rouge 540- which is indeed mad expensive. Tons of copycats that smell just as good, though!

Malady: blood. I've never smelled it, but many who smell Inexcusable Evil by Toskovat' say it does straight up just... Smell like that. (Sorry, Malady)

I know this is long, but thanks for letting me ramble! Your work is lovely, and inspired me to let myself write more. Thank you for sharing it!

Oooooh, thank you!! These are so fun!

Ohhh, that all sounds good for Dandelion. Smoke is a good choice! I was also talking to folks about bergamot, clove, and sandalwood. Not sure how that would all fit together though,

I like the idea of something simple for Basil. Lavender suits him, feels like a scent he would consider comforting. So, yeah, he would probably smell like incense and lavender.

You sound spot on for Lapis, he would love to smell that kind of deluxe, beautiful, and expensive! Though he would more likely to steal it rather than try to buy it lol.

And Malady... yeah... yeah..... that works for him lol.

[titleleaf]

Ska, what perfume do you associate with Lee and Eugene from Queer?

I have 1000% been thinking about this already which is a testament to how this book (and film) are eating my brain!

On a very flat Watsonian level they’re both living such starkly utilitarian lives as alienated expats that it’s hard to imagine them having anything so extraneous in their lives. (Eugene’s relatively closer to normalcy and a settled life — before he meets Lee, at least — and I’d tentatively link him with one of the era’s fragranced aftershaves like Skin Bracer.) But for vibes we have so much to go on!

Lee’s fragrance profile should be big, virile, and strange — there are a lot of wonderful perfumes with narcotic notes (and arguably intoxicating notes are a foundation of the modern perfume genre with tobacco notes and the same aromatic botanicals that have a strong presence in distilled liquors like gin) but his experience of the whole kaleidoscopic world of dope is less sweetly seductive and more sweaty and obsessive. I could see him with a smoky, dirty vintage animalic like Knize Ten. Elegant and not cheap, fitting his well to do upbringing and European experience, but leathery and birch-tarry and unmistakable. It seems to strike some people as genteel in an old school kind of way but will always have skanky vibes for me. Male thot cologne and overwhelmingly masculine, except…

Or ELdO Secretions Magnifiques maybe? Raunchy and weird and an acquired taste given the stated goal:

The famous “4S”: Sueur, Salive, Sang et Sperme (Sweat, Saliva, Blood and Sperm)

Sex, stress, and the triumph of desire over reason. Cummy and marine.

For Eugene I think of DS & Durga Burning Barbershop:

“This is the scent of a fougere that’s been through fire. I imagine the bottle was full, cooking in the extreme heat of the blaze until the glass was black and cracked. After the embers had cooled, it was dug out underneath the rubble. Inside, stuck to the glass was the cooked resin of all that was fresh and inviting from the cologne. So you have the brightness of limes, cleanliness of lavender, joy of roses, zing of mint, and the sweetness of vanilla all cooked down into a rectified solid mass.”

Something that’s been radically transformed by its proximity to a raging force of nature, but not overtaken.

Or something very very close in sillage, barely noticeable, hanging close on the skin so you’re not sure if you’re just smelling the body itself. Guiltily anxiously yet hornily huffing your sleeping lover until he shifts away from you.

I would love it if Strangers Parfumerie did a scent inspired by this film — they’re a really wonderful experimental indie house with a lot of scents inspired by queer art and queer eroticism. It’ll all depend on whether the solo perfumer behind it vibes with the novel and its adaptation but it would be cool.

[manicmaricon]

"burning barbershop by ds and Durga is sooooooo good"

[foleypdx]

What do you smell like? (Not a creepy question I swear I just want tips on butch grooming products but also I bet you smell real nice.)

Because you are my long time pal, I'm gonna believe you when you say not creepy! CURRENTLY, I smell like sweat and sawdust... Which I've been told is hot. But not everyone has time to heft around lumber, build stuff, and bathe in the dust created by a dual bevel miter saw...

I normally wear a cologne by DS&Durga called SIR... because I'm extra like that.

They also have an amazing scent called Burning Barbershop which is amazing.

[newsfind]

D.S. & Durga Burning Barbershop

D.S. & Durga Burning Barbershop

The D.S. & Durga Burning Barbershop fragrance is an unlikely scent for consumers who are looking for a way to smell great and also tell a story with their choice of cosmetic product. The fragrance is inspired by a fire that took place in 1891 at the Curling Bros. barbershop in Westlake, New York and captures the essence of the unfortunate event in an aromatic way. The fragrance is reported to…

[passengerpigeons]

this is what ds&durga burning barbershop smells like

[isobutylquinoline]

DS&Durga Очень нишево и артизанально. Композиции в плоскости между CdG, Nasomatto и Orto Parisi, с отклонением в сторону двух последних. Эдакий Насоматто с человеческим лицом. Ярко, нахально, напористо, много экзерсисов в стиле "я вас сейчас удивлю". Я для такого видимо уже старовата, мне лучше розы и ромашки на шелковые простыни. Но б��енд интересный и свою аудиторию найдёт, тем более, что в России ничего подобного с таким же уровнем пока нет. В любом случае рекомендую пойти и попробовать, чтобы составить собственное мнение. (Например Рив Гош Цветной) Burning Barbershop - смола, дым, дёготь, ёлки, копоть, порох, копчёная колбаса и немного цветов Симпатичный, пряно-ароматический Coriander. Кожаный, телесно-куминовый Bowmakers. Горелое сено Mississippi Medicine. (at РИВ ГОШ) https://www.instagram.com/p/B46x3d5h545/?igshid=1hzo9isplqstm

[mercurysfire]

cowboy grass starts hay-like, a little smoke and spice. Overall sweet and dry-grass, not overly green. After about an hour it’s sweet and powdery and soft. The powder has staying power for a while. Overall I don’t think this worked with my body chemistry.

burning barbershop starts medicinal and aftershave-like scents, really delivering on the barbershop half of the title. After 10 minutes there might be a faint smoke smell. Too old-timey-masculine for me after an hour, scrubbed. That said, could see this being a cult favorite in some circles. 

el cosmico starts resin and campfire with a green note and a very faint almost floral sneaking in at 5 minutes. After 10 minutes it mellows to a nice smokey woody background. 30 minutes it went through a slight burnt rubber smell when I checked my wrist, but wasn’t noticeable at arm’s length. Second trial I could get the mesquite  at the beginning this time. The green note smelled a touch soapy, and there is a slight ozone smell with the ‘burning rubber’ stage. I will probably try this a few more times in different temperatures. 

mississippi medicine starts super green and smokey. Develops spiciness and a slightly damp smell early on. Warm base comes through at 15 minutes, and I noticed the incense was dominant after about an hour. Three hours in it was skin scent only, incense and softness, very pleasant. Will test again. 

info: purchased “smoke” sample set from DS+Durga. photo is my own. Tested in late winter outside temps, average indoor temps.

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Eau de humanity: our guide to the best in Christmas perfume gift ideas | Fashion

Big perfume has designs on your Christmas. Almost half of all the industry’s money is made in November and December, which is why you have been spritzed more aggressively than usual recently in House of Fraser and loomed over by bus-sized versions of Keira Knightley and Angelina Jolie in the streets outside.

These psychological nudges are important, because 40% of fragrance purchases are apparently “panic buys” – a harried, desperate punt on a name that looks sufficiently luxurious to offset guilt at not having put more thought into a present for a partner, sibling or pet (yes, there are perfumes for animals, it’s 2017 and the world is insane). If the last thing you saw was Kit Harington with a giant pair of legs draped inexplicably over his right shoulder, then maybe you’ll go for the Jimmy Choo scent he’s hawking.

But panic isn’t necessary, or desirable, given that your loved one might end up smelling of whatever you’ve picked for months to come. Not only that, a well-chosen perfume can become a significant part of the pleasure someone takes in everyday life, and a way to unlock vivid memories once the bottle has been stowed away for a while.

Jicky perfume by Guerlain.

The world of perfume is a battleground between the niche and the mass-market, with niche outfits (some of them, naturally, owned by huge conglomerates), pushing artisanal quirk ranging from the brilliantly conceived to the preposterous. Established houses tend to aim their fragrances at men or women, niche ones often produce unisex scents (although an exception is Guerlain’s wonderful lavender and vanilla concoction Jicky – £76 for 100ml – worn by men and women since 1887, the year the Eiffel Tower went up). The former tread well-worn paths in the classical mould. The latter explore weirder terrain, with unexpected notes. A notorious example of this is L’Etat Libre d’Orange’s Secretions Magnifiques (£82 for 50ml), which runs the gamut of bodily fluids.

The array is bewildering, so it’s as well to start off with a theme. People often argue that perfume should be appropriate to the season: florals for spring, citruses for summer, headier, heavier compositions for winter. In fact, it’s fine to wear something that flies in the face of the weather – part of the fun of perfumery is to create your own world in the 20cm or so around your body. But for the sake of argument, let’s look at some that suggest Christmas is coming. Niche firm Histoires des Parfums makes a brilliant series of fragrances designed to encapsulate different eras. Their 1740 (£75 for 60ml) is a rich and comforting amber – a blend of resinous notes including labdanum, vanilla and patchouli with a slug of birch tar to evoke the fireside.

1740 perfume by Histoires des Parfums.

Imagine the fire dies down, and only the scent of a snowbound log cabin is left. That would be one way to describe Caron’s Yatagan (£30 for 125ml), a 70s stalwart that is worth re-evaluating in the age of “weird” perfume. Its startling blend of pine, castoreum and leather is supposed to invoke a sabre-wielding Ottoman horseman, perhaps as he bursts in from the cold steppe outside. If his sword sends an ember skidding into the middle of the floor and the whole place burns down, you might end up with DS & Durga’s Burning Barbershop (£139 for 50ml), which is incredibly smoky – almost meaty – at first, before ending up as a kind of lemony vanilla.

Yatagan perfume by Caron.

People buy candles in winter, and if they’re lucky enough to be able to afford them, they buy Cire Trudon candles. The themes are French – choose from Odalisque, La Marquise or Lumière – the styling very ancien régime (the firm was founded in 1643, its fortunes recently revived with an injection of private equity cash). This year, they have brought out a line of perfumes. Bruma (£165 for 100ml), which means “solstice” in Latin, marks the shortest day of the year: 21 December. It is a herbaceous fragrance wrapped in a chilly, soft iris, like a green bud coated in down, waiting until there’s a bit more sunlight. For a bracing, smelling-salts version of the same idea, without the iris undertow, try the cheap classic Grey Flannel (about £10 for 60ml).

Star Wars perfume, £17.50 available from selected Boots stores or Boots.com.

If you’re feeling somewhat less esoteric, you could head out to watch The Last Jedi enveloped in a cloud of your favourite Star Wars fragrance. The company that makes them has recently produced a coffret (a posh perfume word that just means box), including four 10ml vials of Light, Dark, Droid and Galaxy, for £17.50. As you might hope they all smell fairly synthetic, though Light is a pretty close approximation of Davidoff’s Cool Water, with its sun-kissed rosemary and geranium, while Galaxy is what I can only describe as a Coke burp, sweet and clovey. Minty droid fades away quickly, so if you really want to feel like a futuristic machine as the famous yellow titles roll in, try Dark, which captures the intriguing scent of new car upholstery – or perhaps the smooth leather of an X-wing pilot’s seat.

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