#does 4cm even make a difference

[shukakumoodboard]

a headcanon from each of the levels you just reblogged for gaalee

oh my GOD this is a top quality anonymous question op ur da BEST. yammertime. ofc since these are all for a non-canonical ship they're all deranged sparkle emoji but i digress.

for anyone who is like wtf here's the post i reblogged.

text under the cut!

level one:

one that purveyors of gaalee are very familiar with in fanon lore but i believe this to fit in nicely with canon while filling gaps: gaalee friendship developed predominantly via letter writing. reasons why i think this fits with canon 1) gaara manages to develop solid friendships with a lot of people in konoha with what is visually very little actual in-person interaction time. it stands to reason that there's behind the scenes friendship development. 2) he's the president at fourteen like he does not have time to spend on wandering the local mall like a lot of us oldmanyaois did to build our social circles, plus, he's got access to allllll the military communications options. and hawks are fast 3) we know there are multiple canonical messenger hawks! and their whole purpose is cross village communiques. of course they're all sending notes lets b so fr rn

level two:

height difference: lee is, in my head, taller than the canon suggests, and gaara is shorter. reasoning: ok look you've all seen this panel and you're telling me gaara ends up only like 4cm shorter than lee? Go To Jail

yes yes we can all discuss how they're all mid teens and have growing time but listen. gaara spent his entire childhood being effectively mentally tortured by shukaku and also his village's effective abandonment. do you think he had a well balanced diet? if we want to get scientific there's several studies that discuss how poor nutrition in childhood leads to lifelong consequences, and just because kishimoto didn't address this doesn't mean I Won't thank u. and i haven't even gotten started on the not-sleeping-thing. conversely, lee's probably been on Max Gains Training Diet since he was like. what, 10? tldr, i'm simply massaging their canonical heights in favour of what Actually Makes Sense Fucka You

i have another one for lee i think fits in this level that many of you may know from my magnus opus fight club: lee is--whether certified or not--definitely qualified to be a physiotherapist, and i think he'd volunteer at the hospital helping patients with mobility related injuries. reasoning: PLEASE in order to be a brilliant taijutsu specialist he has to have like the most intimate understanding of how the body works. that's his whole area of expertise. and i think that even post-op as a sand-squished teen he would have needed tons of therapy, and rock "paragon of virtue and chivalry and whatever" lee would absolutely feel like he needed to provide some sort of assistance to the hospo staff and help the other patients. because that's what a good shinobi would do. dattebayo

level 3:

yall know what time it is its LANGUAGE HEADCANON TIME based on, once again, all of @sagemoderocklee's fantastic lore. i think lee speaks 3, which for me are a) some form of shinobi common b) whatever the land of fire's local is, and c) something unique to team gai that's heritage based. in tgod i call it nishitsuchigo. i think gaara speaks [large number] on account of being mr sand president sir and thus becoming to some extent a diplomat, plus all those night awake? polyglot challenge speedrun. and the gaalee aspect of this is that gaara can speak all three that lee knows, so they can use that heritage based one to talk shit about their coworkers what who said that.

gaara's hugely into gardening. i think this is a fact in the databooks and we all know the screencap where he's holding the flowerpot but extending on this into truly fan-created lore i think he's definitely overhauling all of suna's food supply chains by going ham on greenhouses and very precise water allocations etc etc

lee grows his hair out after neji's death. this one is, again, well distributed across fandom because everyone, of course, is right relieved emoji. but ignoring bort entirely, lee would definitely do something to honour his friend/teammate, and i think that would be something like growing his hair out, since i don't think he'd change his style of dress and he can't learn neji's jutsu. and he's had long hair before. bring it back kishi u bastard

level 4 delusions:

theyre married. what do you mean im delulu

metal, if i am acknowledging bort which most of the time i am not, is their biological child. no i am not explaining how. my metal origin theory changes based on the fic i'm writing. currently its rock lee's tboy swag porn extension fic. hooHA. but this one only applies to when there's kids present--most of the time there aren't kids in my head

lee and temari swap diplomat roles to be emissaries for each other's villages as part of a Siq Deal to be with their respective husbandos

lee would 100% teach taijutsu to suna's academy students. why? because i said so

basically all my other headcanons tbh

omg i had so much fun with this thank you anon! <3

[hairextendau]

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[otome--gokoro]

Toyotomi Hideyoshi Artbook Info Translation

Toyotomi Hideyoshi: The Miracle of Sengoku

Warm and kind, he’s capable of blending seamlessly into any social situation. But sometimes, he looks sad… What is he hiding behind his kindness?

PROFILE Personality: Playful, mood maker Birthday: 17th March Height: 175cm Weight: 68kg Skill: Negotiation Favorite food: Bekkou-ame Dream: To live in peace and serve a talented lord

SECRET INFO He’s super popular with women wherever he goes, but even though he’s not that short, he has a complex about his relatively smaller build. When he and MC were playing with sparklers, he hugged her from behind and confessed that he had been inflating his height all along and pretending that he was 179cm tall.

ILLUSTRATOR COMMENT A character who was redesigned from scratch. It probably doesn’t need to be said, but the base for his image was a monkey. He was required to have big ears, and I completed his design with short hair and a kind face.

@shigetsugu @koudaiin

[previous translations: Kageie, Shigezane]

UPDATE: there is this weird thing that’s happening when people reblog these posts - sometimes it cuts off after the first paragraph, so the profile/secret info/illustrator comment doesn’t show up. i have no idea why :(

[theoverly]

Height-Canon

For the four main characters in my Cyberpunk 2077 world, according to my headcannon, in order of first appearance in the story as told by the game(poor Vince is last because he’s not in my cannon playthrough of the game, lol)

Valerie “V” Valentine

1.86m (always wear boots that make her taller)

Johnny SIlverhand

1.86m (often slouching so he looks shorter, wear boots that make him taller)

Kerry Eurodyne

1.81cm 1.75cm (often wear boots that make him taller)

Vincent “Vince” Valentine

1.89m (always slouching so he looks shorter)

Fun height related facts and some info under the cut;

V and Vince have proportionally long legs;

So they look shorter when they sit down

V and Vince were the exact same height for their entire childhood and most of their teen years;

This is because they were born as identical twins

Vince has always been slouching, even as a kid. This was mostly because he was more timid and laid-back, whilst V tended to be more brash and assertive

At around seventeen years old, one of the twins started taking hormones. This is around the same time V stopped growing, and Vince kept growing another 4cm

V and Johnny are the same height;

Johnny stops slouching as much so V doesn’t appear taller than him, and luckily he wears those heeled boots that give him an extra cm or two so he’s still the same height when she wears her favorite boots

She goes and buys even taller boots just to spite him. They’re thrown out after just a day since she has trouble walking in them

If V and Johnny were to ask someone to measure them to see who’s tallest, they’d both try to stretch as tall as they can, and probably even cheat a little by trying to lift their heels off the ground.

Kerry likes to tease Johnny, claiming he feels threatened by V, claiming that’s why he does everything to never appear shorter than her

But since he’s always slouching and Kerry’s often wearing boots whilst Vince tends to wear sneakers and slouch, the height difference don't appear to be quite that much

Vince is 8cm 14cm taller than Kerry;

Kerry didn’t see Vince standing up at his full height for quite some time after they first met, so he got a bit of a shock when it first happened

Even after they get together, Kerry tends to forget just how much shortet he is, some mornings when they get up and Vince stretches to his full height for a moment, the rockstar does a double take.

Kerry tries to correct the nomad’s posture a lot of the time. It usually works for a couple of minutes at a time

[heathered-beinn]

BTS American Hustle Life Ep7

BTS are in LA to learn about hip hop. Episode 6 was really fun to watch – probably one of the best episodes so far. We saw the final bits of filming for the music video before Warren G decided which team had won. The winner was the only person who didn’t look ready to “mess themselves” getting within a foot of a woman, which was J-Hope. So J-Hope and Jin deservedly won a prize. The bands’ next challenge was to find ‘their master’ and learn some new skills. Jin and J-Hope learned beatboxing, RM and Jimin learned some bboying, and Suga, V, and Jungkook learned some RnB (and gospel). At the end of the ep, the teams had a little competition between themselves to show off their new skills. RM and Jimin ended up losing (slightly unfairly) which saw them getting pied in the face – which, I’m not going to lie, was hilarious.

Hopefully episode 7 will be just as fun to watch.

So, we start off with the band arriving at an outdoor basketball court. Three guesses as to who they think is their best basketball player and the first two guesses don’t count lol. Of course it’s Suga.

So Tony played basketball in college and is 2m 4cm in height. Yeah, I don’t rate BTS’s odds lol! Ahhaha, BTS’ rock paper scissors game has rubbed off on Tony and Nate but they are definitely not as fast at it as the band!

LOL, so Tony picked Jungkook first, then Jimin (I think Tony has a soft spot for him although I can’t put my finger on why I think that just yet). Poor RM is the last to be picked and ends up being the referee-commentator. Team Tony: Jungkook, Jimin, J-Hope Team Nate: Suga, V, and Jin

My money is on Team Tony winning and Nate’s team buying the icecream.

Oh sweet J-Hope is… hopeless lol. Suga is a star as expected <3

I think Suga and Tony are scoring most of the points lol. Aww J-Hope actually scored!!!!! And what a celebration!

Ooooooooooooh it was epically close but Tony’s team won by a point! Ice cream is on Nate’s team. BTS once again sharing ice creams. This sharing spit still blows my mind, it’s awesome.

So they’ve been in LA for 17 days and they don’t have much longer to go. Something special has been prepared for them (I doubt it’s going to be a nice surprise) and yet again they get woken up early. Aww they look so sleepy… poor things. Into the limos they go and they’re in different teams. We’re clued in that they are all going to try ‘working’. Called it. This isn’t a nice surprise.

RM and Suga end up in a hotel and they’ve got to join the housekeeping team for the day and clean rooms. Their supervisor, Candy, it not letting any mistake slip by lol.

Those sheets can’t have wrinkles or smudges! LOL at RM saying he should have been given one of the younger band members so he could have made them clean the bathroom. At least he was gallant and volunteered to stay doing the rooms (which Candy said was harder) and let Suga go to the kitchen to wash dishes.

Aww Jimin and Jungkook are a team. I wonder where they will be working...? Ahahahaha Jimin warning Jungkook that those teamed with him end up suffering. Let’s hope it’s not too bad Jimin.

They end up at an airfield where there are lots of small planes and jets. They are kind of full of wonder and it’s a shame they are going to find out it’s not going to be fun at all. Hehe, their little faces when they learn they have to clean. Their attempt at it is a bit silly though lol.

Jin, J-Hope, and V are out at the mariner and they have to clean a boat. Lol that guy sure does make them work!

Jimin and Jungkook have been ‘talked to’ because they made a tiny error and Jungkook’s sassy response killed me; “When we leave, I want to tell that ajusshi to live while cleaning up the place one in a while.”

LMAO the two of them are going to be supervised while cleaning a plane by a 14 year old! LOL at the air-field owner’s slight panic at Jimin not quite understanding what he was saying about the cleaning fluid and telling him to listen to Jungkook - just about killed me. Then the 14 year old teasing Jimin that Jungkook was younger and doing a better job than him and then ragging on him for the rest of the job. Jimin, bless him, kept his humour but I got the sense he wanted to shove that cloth somewhere other than the inards of a dirty plane. OMG, the airfield owner actually put the two of them in time-out like they were naughty toddlers... *facepalm*. They take it in relatively good humour but it’s interesting that, while Jimin is washing his face, Jungkook says Jimin is probably mad as he usually gets mad about this sort of stuff. While I don’t doubt that Jimin has a temper I do wonder what their version of ‘mad’ is because they tend to laugh as they complain? Never have I seen one of them raise an angry voice yet. See! Jimin is even laughing as he says he wants to hit the 14 year old’s head on the way out. I bet mad in BTS world is them saying something mildly passive aggressive while not laughing uproariously.

Back to Suga and he’s trying to find the kitchen. LMAO when he tries valiantly to explain what he’s looking for in bad broken English and the woman tells him she speaks Korean. He gets to work without much complaint and does rather well. He even gets to eat. Meanwhile RM is up in the rooms all by himself lol.

Hehe, Jin, V, and J-Hope lying to RM and Suga that they are on a yacht eating lobster while in reality they are varnishing. Lol at V saying RM doesn’t do much and Suga orders everyone around so he’s glad to be with Jin and J-Hope when they are cleaning. He also says he enjoys that they talk a lot – Jungkook supposedly gets quiet when he’s on shows and on camera. Then V disses Jin by saying he’d rather be in a team with J-Hope alone.

LMAO at Jungkook telling Jin Jimin’s getting chewed out by a 14 year old!

J-Hope laughing his ass off when Jungkook tells them they’re in time-out.

Just Jimin going for the thigh while he laments that people always suffer when paired with him…

Aww, Jimin got less money at the end of their job and said the manager probably didn’t like him, which Jungkook was smug about. The helicopter thing where the manager took them up about a metre above the ground before landing again and telling them to get out was funny but also mean.

RM finally got some food and he and Suga got paid, yay!

Jin, V, and J-Hope got paid too.

So RM and Suga made $550, Jimin and Jungkook made $500 and Jin, V, and, J-Hope made $450 (suspiciously $50 different each time, do I smell a set-up?). RM and Suga win!

What’s going to happen to the money? Tony says it’s going to feed people on Skid Row – great lessons to teach the band; generosity, charity, and humility. The lads look scared and suitably sad as they drive up skid row and see all the homeless tents and the extent of poverty there.

They get some great advice as they hand out food – there are a lot decent folk on Skid Row who just bummed out of luck and ended up on the streets. I like the advice that one guy gave them about ‘not taking things for granted. You can be poor one day and rich the next and with then with no warning go back to being poor again.’

So that was the episode. I liked the bit at the end but to be honest it was really not my favourite episode of the series. I think it would have been better if they had pre-warned the band they would be working so they would have been prepared to try their hardest and wouldn’t have treated it like a game. At the end of it they would have walked away with a deeper feeling of achievement. I also think if they had worked really hard, thinking there was they’d earn a reward for the concert, and then had to give up the money for food for the homeless it would have made the message at the end hit even harder. But it was what it was and I’m sure the lads got something out of it.

Right, one episode left and it looks like the main feature of it is their LA concert. Can’t wait!

[fineartminerals]

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[ticktockstuck]

Versal Biology Lesson: Shards

Across the many worlds of the Verse there exist many different types of person: the gelatine, the serpentine, those with fire inside and outside of their bodies, and the hardy shards just to describe a few. “Shards of glass”, whose number includes underground 🐬Moistystopian🐬 streamer Cirava Hermod and the aristocratic Lalonde twins of Tick-Tock Town, are so named thanks to their bodies having a highly similar build to thick inanimate glass. This anatomical quirk has its upsides and its downsides for any given shard and can take form in many different ways.

A shard’s skin is highly protective. The bodies of shards are infamous for their skin, which is denser than the skin of a non-shard’s skin. Along with just being thicker the skin is flawlessly smooth, cool to the touch, often has a glossy or metallic sheen, and in the vast majority of individuals the skin is at least partly transparent. This transparency not only allows light to partly pass through them, but leaves much of their internal anatomy visible to the naked eye. Combined, these qualities have the effect of making shards highly durable and protected from many everyday dangers, with many circumstances that would give non-shards cuts or bruises will literally only scratch the surface of a shard (especially true of bladed or slashing weapons like claws or knives.

Shards’ bodies have three types of glass skin. As a consequence of being more durable, glass skin is inherently less flexible than non-shard skin. It’s still skin, so it can bend slightly, but not without effort and physical strain. To circumvent this, shard bodies have three different types of skin which collectively gives their bodies an optimal balance of natural defense and maneuverability.

The most flexible of the three skins is aptly nicknamed “flexiglass”. While still dense enough to ward off claws and knives, flexiglass is the least dense of the three skins but provides all joints the full range of motion available to non-shards. Flexiglass parts of the body are anywhere that needs to frequently bend or twist, namely the neck, shoulders, elbows, and knees.

The sturdiest but least flexible skin is “hard glass”, which makes up the majority of a shard’s body. Consisting of any area which does not need to make major movements, hard glass areas of the body include the back of the head, the chest, the back, and non-joint parts of limbs such as the thigh or forearm.

The middle ground between these two skins is called “twainglass” since it posses the durability of hard glass and the flexibility of flexiglass (though not to the fullest extent in either quality). Twainglass parts of the body consist of anything which needs ease of movement but also needs adequate protection, namely the face, hands, feet, and pelvis.

To be clear, these are not different layers of skin; on a technical level shards have a single layer of skin (like everybody else) that simply has three different compositions based on which part of the body it covers. The shift from one composition to another is gradual, though that gradient isn’t visibly apparent. The body of a shard is coated in thin grooves which divide these different areas of skin (scientifically these are termed “microfractures” but colloquially known as “fracks”), which are at most 4cm deep. By having the gradation between skin types occur below the surface within these grooves, the body is able to maximize the surface area coverage for any given type of skin. Fracks take many shapes and serve as identifying marks since any individual shard’s fracks all take the same shape.

Shards can be many colors and transparencies. While the majority of shards have “colorless” skin that takes on a crystal-blue hue many others have a variety of vivid colors from gold to magenta or even black or white. Different shards likewise can be more or less transparent than another, including fully opaque shards with a metallic chrome gleam to their skin (who have the self-granted nickname “jewels”). Any given shard’s skin color has no correlation to the color of their blood, and as an example it’s entirely possible for a troll shard to have golden glass skin but fuchsia blood. The skin’s color can change over time or be temporarily altered through the use of cosmetics, lotions or creams allowing the skin to absorb chemicals to dye it (though this effect fades after 3-4 weeks and can negatively impact their health over long enough periods).

An individual shard can be many colors and transparencies. A shard’s body isn’t restricted to only a single level of transparency or a single hue, and can display multiple types of either feature. In terms of color, multiple colors will blend together in a smooth gradient (there are no hard stops outside of a visual line with fracks) and while most multi-hued shards only have 2-3 colors spread around the body some rare others have been seen with upwards of 5 unique colors. Transparency gradation is comparatively rarer than color gradation but operates on similar principles. Color, regardless of hue, is only an aesthetic different and has no significant impact on the defensive properties of the glass skin. Transparency differences have a negligible impact, with more transparent sections being evidently more fragile than opaque section.

Shards can still be wounded. While glass skin helps prevent injury, it’s not impervious and there are ways that shards can be hurt. High-pressure impacts and blunt force trauma are particularly capable of cracking or breaking the skin; this include sudden falls onto hard surfaces, enforced punches, hammers, and in certain situations gunfire can manage to deal lasting damage (mainly dependent on how it fires bullets and the range they’re fired from). Once damage gets bad enough to break through the surface, it quickly becomes apparent how shards’ glass skin is a double-edged sword: injuries may be harder to acquire but any injuries they do get are much worse. The skin cracks with the wound running deep into the body and that wound can take weeks to heal over completely. It won’t heal over cleanly, either, partly thanks to scar tissue forming underneath the skin and partly due to a visible “ring” that forms on the surface marking where the edge of the wound used to be.

Medical treatments for shards are not simple. While shards are known to have superb health in general, the nature of the skin impacts what kinds of medical treatments shards can have. Anything that can be ingested works normally, the problem of giving an injection without struggle has long since been solved with specialized syringes and patches, but traditional surgeries (that don’t cause more complications than they solve) have been functionally impossible for generations. Many shards with internal issues have had to rely on magical medicine to cure their maladies, a process which (considering how selfishly magic tends to be hoarded around the Verse) is financially costly and necessitates seeking out a specialist. The need to ensure they can reliably find help has, over generations, led to many shards taking up magical professions (medical or otherwise). Modern technology is slowly finding ways to reliably and safely treat shards but in their current state those methods are as expensive and arguably riskier than the magical options.

Shards can be as tall, short, thin, fat, or muscular as anybody else. The unique qualities of their skin don’t significantly alter how a shard’s internal anatomy works, and their organs and skeletal structures function the same as any other member of their species. The ability to gain or lose muscle and fat is not hindered, and at best the skin only affects how fat and muscle is distributed around the body and how that physically shows on their figure. Specifically, it usually works out that instead of softer builds shards have stocky or sturdy builds that ultimately reinforce the already-noted defensive upsides of their body. It should be noted that, as a consequence of being denser than non-shard skin, the glass skin itself adds to a shard’s weight such that a shard would weigh a handful of pounds heavier than a non-shard with the exact same shape.

Shards tend to have short hair. The physique of a shard isn’t impacted by their skin but their hair is. Thanks to how pores manifest on glass skin, your average shard has less body hair but what does exist grows short, grows thick, or both (i.e. hair on the head rarely grows past neck-length). There is no effect on what color a shard’s hair can be though it often appears darker thanks to the thickness of the hair itself. One notable quirk specific to shards is that some can have hair as transparent as the skin, an effect that’s difficult to spot at a distance for multiple reasons and is only really visible upon closer inspection. See-through hair is a trait shards can pass down to their children (shard or otherwise).

If you have questions about shards that weren't answered in this post, the the inquiries office is always open. The next VBL will likely be covering star-skinned folks like a certain Harley and Kanaya, and released before that Harley and Jake's revamped sprites go up.

[stephfights]

Round 3...and it’s kicking my ass

Well I have made it to the halfway point of the first block of chemo.  Number 3.  As far as the actual day of chemo...it wasn’t to bad.  It went much smoother than round #2 went.  My wonderful nurses were prepared for anything that might happen and had a great game plan before I even got there.  I love my nurses!

I had to have another round of magnesium since the diarrhea had crashed my levels.  They also gave me Benadryl and a steroid thru the port.  If you want some good sleep....liquid Benadryl!  After all of that then they got started on the 4 different chemo bags.  They ran it super slow and everything went as planned.  No problems.  It took a lot longer but it’s not like I had anywhere else to go.  I do feel bad for Chris and my mom.  They just have to sit for hours.  I know it is so boring and the chairs are uncomfortable.  Makes me feel guilty for complaining. 

The next 2 days I don’t remember a lot about.  As I have said before I am on a ton of different medications to combat all of the side effects of the chemo and some of them make me super sleepy.  Day #3 post chemo my bones were hurting so bad that I thought I would die.  Chris has to give me a shot 24 hours after chemo to boost my bones into overdrive to start making white blood cells.  The side effect is bone pain.  And there is nothing you can do for bone pain.  Tylenol and pain meds are used for muscle pain.  So all you can do is suffer.  It doesn’t matter if you sit or lay.  It hurts.  It feels like someone has your femur and is literally pulling it apart at both ends.  My legs, hips and ribs hurt me so bad.  And again....all Chris and my mom could do is watch.  (There comes that guilt creeping up again)

Day #4 post chemo I woke up in horrible pain in my groin and thighs.  I had a burn like rash.  And it hurt like a bitch!  Chris called the Dr and they said to go to my local urgent clinic and let them look at it.  So Mom wrapped me up and slapped a mask on me and off we went  They were so nice.  Turns out your body naturally produces yeast.  The chemo made my immune system bottom out so the yeast started growing out of control.  It was a yeast rash.  And it was horrible.  They gave me meds and fixed me right up.  It is still there but much better today.  Just another wonderful example of what chemo does to your body.

Day #5....here comes my arch nemisis diarrhea.  It is worse this time than any time before.  It is painful and humiliating.  And I can’t get away from it.  I take all the meds and when I top out I usually get a few hours of rest...then it starts again.  It does not matter what I eat or drink.  It’s going to happen.  Today is day #6 and it is showing no sign of slowing down.  At least mom and Chris are at work so they get a break from me.  Dad is here now.

Feb 10 I have an appointment with a genetic specialist.  They want to test me to see if I carry the breast cancer gene.  It scares me to think that I might.  I try not to worry about it and focus on one day at a time but that is hard.  I try to smile and be happy and tell everyone that I’m okay.  But the truth is....sometimes I’m not okay.  I am still angry about the situation I am in.  I still have days that I think this is so unfair.....especially to my family and friends.  I have days that I wonder why I am going thru all of this when there is no guarantee that it will work.  But then I get good news.  They measured the invasive tumor at my last chemo appointment and it has went from 6cm to 4cm.  My body is responding to the treatments.  Everyone is so excited.  Of course I am happy too.  But I am afraid to let myself get too excited until this is all over. 

Sorry to be such a downer but I want everyone to know all the different sides of this journey.  It is not just vomiting and weight loss that you always hear about with chemo.  It is SO much more.  Things I didn’t even know could happen.  Things I was not prepared for. But...I’m still kicking.  Not very high but I am still kicking.  Feb 11 will be chemo treatment #4 and I dread it.  I really do. 

Love to all

Steph

[yilanoff]

Advices about drawing #5

Sketch is not a problem!

If the sketch it's difficult for you, do not start shading. When the base is bad, the shading will not fix anything.

Sketch is the key! Start with the general to the detail. First, draw more or less where the face is, how your arms and hair fall. Then start refining. Mark where your eyes, nose, mouth and ears are. Which way the hair is going. At this stage, you can mark some folds of clothing. Now we go into details.

Ok! but even if I have already drawn these things, I still have a problem with drawing this eye!

The first way!

We can make a small scam. We use our short-term memory. We apply sheet close to the photo or under the printed photo. And we quickly look at the photo and on the piece of paper, on the photo and piece of paper. Doing it quickly, you can say that you will "see" the fragment you were looking at on your sheet of paper. Of course, this is a short-lived impression. But if you will slowly draw it, even if you notice that the line will run away, you can easily direct it. This technique is used by the forger of works of art Mark Landis (Art & Craft). Ps. I love this guy. He is my master!

The second way!

Is to measure with a pencil, ruler or stick. We put it on the photo, measure it and transfer it to a piece of paper (eg in the picture the eye is 2cm wide, so on the sheet should also have it). Unless we use a scale then we increase or decrease the measure (eg in the picture is 2cm but I draw a large portrait so I'm doing it a 2x bigger so it's 4cm. And the other way).

The third way!

Is the grid. You draw a grid in the picture and the same on a piece of paper. When you have to redraw small fragments it is easier. I use this technique when moving a sketch onto a canvas or a large sheet. And the scale can also be used here.

The fourth way!

Is truly devilish! So, redrawing by the light source. Through the glass, backlit screen or tracing from the monitor. I know that many people do not recommend this for beginners, but honestly this is the fastest way. I don't hide that I do it myself because it does not take much time and I don't have it much. (Only that I have already mastered the basics of drawing). I think that even Leonardo da Vinci himself would use this method if he had a printer or an computer XD. I know the artist who uses the projector to move sketches on canvas but the paintings he paints are huge so I can not imagine if he had to do it differently. So to everyone! I'm just telling you that this is the way, but you have to choose.

Every way is good if it's works ;) It is important to mark large shadows on the sketch (I mark the area and write X on it to avoid making mistakes). You can omit drawing eyelashes (unless they are really thick), freckles, etc. Such small things can disturb the first stage of drawing. Only when you have a good sketch start the shading.

[irastayshome]

Heck of a month

So, since the last depressing post on this, my husband’s received news that his cancer had spread to his brain and spine, finally agreed to go for immunotherapy, deteriorated shortly after because of brain swelling from the tumor, brought him to a&e n had brain surgery to remove a 4cm tumor, underwent a sticky period of recovery dealing with side effects of the new opioids they have him on, completely abandoned all intentions of following an ‘álternative’ path for healing, and a month and a few kilos later, he’s able to wean off the opioids and is gaining strength. I know he does not want to say it, neither do i, for fear of jinxing things up. But hope is not some kinda magical thinking now. 

They say cancer doesn’t just happen to the sick person. It happens to his entire family. Cancer certainly ‘happened’ to us, in ways I had not anticipated. It illuminated to me an entire village that supported me and my children as we tried to keep up with the dizzying ride. One thing I know for sure now - family is who you choose, and who sticks by you no matter what.

What they don’t tell you either, is that its not all about savouring every moment with the loved one and talking about the meaning of life. It hardly ever happens, unless the body and the mind accepts that they are actively dying. And in an ideal world, perhaps, cancer would have been that kick needed to look back at one’s life and pick apart the things that truly matter from the ridiculous. But I guess we do not live in a film. In real life, the problems that irritate you and your marriage, will STILL irritate the two of you. As things start to return to normal, or whatever normal looks like now, we all want to forget the intensity of emotions when we thought we had to abandon hope soon. The brain wants to forget, always. But the heart never does. I had gotten used to the idea that my husband is willingly choosing the path that would take him away from me and his children, after many nights of tears and prayers, holding his body from afar as he sleeps, and staying awake envisioning how raising our boys would look like without him. And now, its as if im not grateful that he appears to be gaining strength. My mind needed a moment to shift from ‘’we’re running out of time together’ to ‘’its time to buckle up for the long journey ahead’’. Both states of mind asked for very different energies from me and the children.  

I know recovery is not pretty, and it certainly follows its own timeline. But I wish, somehow, the doctors, or even my husband, knew where he is on that timeline. Because I am already exhausted, trying to be a mother and a father to the kids, trying to support my husband in his recovery any way that I can, trying to deal with the day to day matters that scream for my attention. Yet the moment I cry out for a little bit of help from his family, the wolves came forward. Trying to tear apart the fragile stability we’re trying to get at here, by putting ideas into his head that he would do better to heal at his mother’s place than our family home. But despite the deep anger and hurt this ignited in me, nothing hurt more than to hear my husband say that he could see how this works well for everyone. “So you don’t have to be so tired all the time... so the kids can get your attention.. ”. It’s funny how he’s never cared about these two things when he was free of cancer. But I tell myself, he has tumors.. don’t take to heart everything he says. That’s what the social worker and oncologist said too. But they don’t know my husband like I do. Nobody does.. not his brothers, his colleagues, his friends, his children, not even his mother - though she would strongly disagree. Ive seen him at his best, and now his worst. And I know I should not take to heart when a person with stage 4 cancer says he wants to run back to his family. But we are his family too. He chose to make this family. He made so many promises of a long life with me, and chose to bring 2 boys into this world with me. It hurts. To know that when he thought he was dying, he did not want to have us surround him. I know pain, deep pain, makes it difficult for one to consider any other perspective of those around us. I never expected to feel so selfish and yet so justified in that feeling of anger towards him. 

I don’t know how he’ll be by the end 2022, or even WHERE he will be. But i’ve finally accepted that if he wants to run away to his family despite all his responsibilities and his 2 very young, innocent boys waiting here with his wife, I’m not going to stop him. In our marriage, the one thing he has taught me, over all our arguments, is that I have got this. All those moments where he’d abandon both me and the kids when he was angry and just check out of being the head of the family, i’ve gotten a hang of the ropes. In a way, he has taught us to live without him. Perhaps he knows this too, which is why he’d rather be with his ‘’people’’, who now feel they have something to prove by wanting to take care of him, than live with the guilt of having us take care of him. And if he makes it, i’m happy for him. Truly. But i’ll just be over here then, consoling his children who will be wondering why their father chose to leave them and whether it was their fault or mine that made him leave. Like i said, one heck of a month. 

[livingcorner]

How to Grow Peas – Sugar Snap Peas Variety

Growing Peas

Peas are well-suited to cooler temperate climates. In fact, when temperatures exceed 20C (70F), most varieties of peas will stop producing pods.

You're reading: How to Grow Peas – Sugar Snap Peas Variety

Peas are part of the legume (Latin Leguminosae) family of vegetables, which extract nitrogen from the air and store it in little nodules along their roots. For this reason, when the plants finish cropping, dig the roots directly into the soil, where they will slowly decompose and release  nitrogen for other plants to use

Where to Grow Peas

Peas will grow on most soils, although they prefer a medium well-dug soil with plenty of organic material. Do not add nitrogen to the soil before planting (or after) – peas extract nitrogen from the air sufficient for the needs. An over-rich soil will cause lots of leafy growth, but a reduced cop of peas. Peas like moisture, so do not plant too near walls or fences.

A sunny area is best, although peas are tolerant of partial shade, especially if the shade occurs during the hottest part of the day. Maincrop peas are tall leggy plants (1.8 m / 6 ft), and they can easily be damaged if planted in areas exposed to high wind.

Remember that the taller varieties will cast quite a shadow over any other crops nearby. A good plan is to use the space around the pea plants for smaller shade-tolerant plants vegetables – radishes are an excellent choice.

When to Grow

By sowing a couple of varieties over a month or so, the cropping can be extended from mid-June to mid-September. The table below shows when to sow each type and when they will crop.

  Type                        Sow                   Harvest               Sow to Harvest First Early           March to June    June to September           12 weeks Second Early       March to June      June to October              14 weeks Maincrop             March to June      July to October               15 weeks

For crops in May, sow First Early varieties outside in February under cloches or supported plastic. It is best to have the cloches / plastic over the soil in January to warm it up prior to sowing. Remove the cloches / plastic when the danger of hard frost has passed – around April time.

Sowing Peas

You can sow peas in modules or pots indoors for planting out later. A popular and satisfying way to sow is in plastic guttering. Fill the gutter with seed compost and sow your seeds 5cm apart. When it’s time to plant out simply slide the compost, peas and all into a prepared seed bed. Your peas will remain at the correct spacing with minimal disturbance to the plant.

Tip: Water the compost well before sliding into your planting trench, it helps bind it all together.

Outdoors Prepare the seed bed by raking out any large stones, the soil does not need to be too fine as the pea seeds are relatively large. Peas are so easy to handle and germinate very reliably so are a pleasure to sow outdoors. Sow in drills 4cm deep and 10cm wide. Leave 70cm between rows.

Read more: How to Edge a Garden

Sugar Snap mangetout should be treated in exactly the same way as Maincrop peas.

Transplanting Peas

An alternative to cloche protection is to sow the seeds in late February on a windowsill – if this is done, use peat pots (not plastic), because the seedlings can then be planted directly into the soil with the peat pot (the peat will quickly break down in the soil) – peas do not like their roots being disturbed. Remember to harden off the seedlings prior to planting permanently.

Crop Care

The first key need of peas is moisture, and they must be watered throughout their lives when conditions become dry. If the soil has been well-prepared they will have no further need for feeding. A mulch of organic material around the plants will help to keep weeds at bay and preserve moisture.

Virtually all pea plants will require support of some kind, consult the seed packet to find out their final height. The easiest method of support is to place twigs near the plants – the tendrils of the plant will twine around the twigs for support. Thinnings from conifers are ideal for this purpose.

Another method is to erect canes in a row, tying in the plants as they grow – netting (available from most garden centers) tied to the canes will give extra support.  Each plant is grown up its own individual cane and can then spread across the netting.

The plants should be pinched out when they reach the top to encourage shoots further down the plants. Where the plants are grown against a fence, plastic netting can be secured to the fence and the tendrils will cling to it pulling the plant up

Pests and Diseases

After sowing it’s a good idea to protect from birds, personally I’ve never found them a problem but they can be real pest. Place a wire mesh or sticks along the newly sowed row. Mice will often eat the seeds quicker than you can sow them – if they live in your garden, there is no real cure. Some gardeners coat the seeds in paraffin, others buy a cat! The other main problems are Pea Moth, Pea Weevil or Pea Thrip, Greenfly, and Blackfly.

Powdery Mildew

Leaves and pods develop a sticky white substance on the leaves. This will nearly always happen towards the end of the season. The disease is most common in dry years and will be worst in sheltered gardens. Spraying with a diluted milk solution is a good preventative cure but if you get the disease you will need to spray with sulphur. Grow varieties like ‘Greenshaft’ and other resistant strains and you will have much less of a problem.

Pea Moth

Growers in southern England will be familiar with pea moth which burrows through the pods and into the peas rendering them useless. There is no treatment so the best course of action is to sow early or late crops. A quick maturing early variety will be perfect sown in April.

Supporting Peas

Peas are climbing plants and will need support to grow. You need to provide support as soon as the first tendrils appear as they never yield as well if allowed to flop over on the ground. You must make sure your supports are strong enough as a mature crop of peas can be quite heavy. Tendrils are the little curled shoots the pea uses to wrap around the climbing support.

TIP: Peas cannot climb a bamboo cane like beans can, they also need lateral support.

Using small branches

Most pea varieties will grow between 4 and 6 feet high. Using pruned branches from your trees is a great free way of providing a natural looking support. Collect branches about 1-2 inches in diameter and approx 6ft high. If you can get some nice straight ones, all the better. Push them into the ground at approx 2 foot spacings. Weave smaller branches horizontally between the uprights to create lateral supports. You can add more branches as the peas increase in height, the more branches you have, the better.

N.B. you can also run string between the branch supports, as long as it goes accross your support it’s fine.

Making a pea wigwam

Tie suitable sticks together to greate a wigwam. You can use bamboo poles but remember you’ll have to coil twine or wire around the wigwam to help the peas to climb. A mix of branches an twigs is ideal as they provide plenty of supports to climb on. Make sure to weave plent of sticks into the structure as in the picture. I’d recommend this method, it’s fun to do and looks great in the garden.

Using a pea & bean mesh

Place 2 inch or heavier fencing posts in the ground approx 4 foot apart. Use 7/8 foot posts with at least 12 inches in the ground. Fix your pea & bean support mesh to the posts using staples or u-shaped nails.

Crop Care

Read more: How to Kill Grasshoppers Without Poison

If the weather is dry and your peas have begun to flower keep them well watered, you will increase the yield. Don’t water too much before the flowers appear or you may get lots of lush leafy growth at the expense of the pods. Keep the base of the plants well mulched to help control weeds and retain moiture. Grass clippings are perfect as long as the grass hasn’t been sprayed for any form of moss or weed control. Grass clippings are very high in nitrogen so only use enough to cover the ground and keep down weeds.

Harvesting Peas

Garden peas are best when slightly immature – when fully mature they become hard and loose the sweet taste. Harvesting them early also encourages them to produce more. As a guide, peas are normally ready for harvest three weeks after flowering. Peas quickly loose their flavour after harvesting, so pick them just before they are required for cooking. The peas at the bottom of the plant will tend to be ready first, so begin harvesting here, working up as time progresses. When the plant stops producing peas, cut the top of the plant off and leave the roots in the ground to compost for next year.

The one thing to remember when harvesting peas is that if you stop and let any peas ripen on the vine, the plant will stop producing. Even if you’re fed up of peas or you need to go away for a week get a neighbour to harvest as once they stop they can’t be stimulated back into action. Pick your peas once or twice a week so the are still tender. Grip the pea by the stem and pull off the pod to avoid damage to the pea plant. There are of course different types of peas so I’ll go through the harvesting of each.

Shelling or maincrop peas

Pick when the pods are bright green when they are well filled but there is still a bit of space between the peas. Shell the peas (remove from pod) and cook or to conserve flavour cook whole and pod afterwards. Of course fresh peas are delicious eaten raw straight from the vine.

Dried Peas

Leave the pods on the plants until they turn brown at the end of the season. Pull up the plants and hang in an airy place like a well ventilated greenhouse. When the pods are dry and crispy remove the peas and store in airtight jars.

Mangetout – Flat podded types.

Pick when the outline of the pea is just visible through the skin and the pods snap cleanly in half. They remain at their best for a relatively short time so keep an eye on your plants.

Mangetout – Sugar Snap types.

Pick when green, plump and easily snapped in half. You can shell them if required but the pods of these peas can be eaten. Steam the whole lot very lightly, delicious!

Digging In Pea Roots

Pea plants take nitrogen from the air to grow and store it in their roots. As nitrogen is one of the essential building blocks of any healthy plant it makes sense to keep the nitrogen in the soil. You can see the little nitrogen storing nodules as the white balls on the roots in the photo opposite. When the peas have finished producing at the end of the season cut them down to soil level. Dig in the roots to release the nitrogen in the root nodules for the use of next years vegetables.

Storage: Peas don’t have much of a shelf life, so I don’t recommend storing them in their pods or shelled for very long. Store pods in a plastic bag in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator and use them within a couple of days. Once they’re shelled, the best way to store peas is to freeze them. First blanch them for a minute or two in boiling salted water and then shock them in an ice-water bath until cool, to help maintain their bright color. Drain and freeze them in zip-top bags. They will keep for five to six months.

Freshly picked peas are one of the delights of the Summer, in my garden most rarely make it to the kitchen and with visitors snacking on the juicy green peas as they pass. Peas are relatively easy to grow, just make sure you put the work in beforehand by building a stout support frame.

How to Grow Peas Video Our You tube channel has nearly 4 million views! Watch our Peas video with Andrew Davidson and professional organic grower Klaus Laitenberger. All our videos are filmed over a full season so you can see the sowing, planting, crop care and harvesting stages.

You can view our video by clicking the link or the Youtube icon.

Source: https://livingcorner.com.au Category: Garden

source https://livingcorner.com.au/how-to-grow-peas-sugar-snap-peas-variety/

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[thumbgarden]

How to growing amaranth in containers at home

As many people know, Amaranthus is a universal plant, on the basis of which you can make tea, add to various dishes, cook porridge with grains and even make bread with Amaranthus flour. And if everything is clear with flour and grains, you can buy it in specialized stores, because it is not a perishable product, what about the fresh leaves.

And in this case, everything is simple, you can grow Amaranthus not only in the garden or growing amaranth in containers but also on the windowsill of the apartment. This article has the answer for you.

ABOUT AMARANTHUS Amaranthus is an annual plant that grows 80-120inch (2-3m) tall. It has a rather fleshy stem and leaves that come in red, purple, or solid green. The flowers can be gold, red or purple.

Although Amaranthus is a weed, it can be grown not only to decorate a garden or plot but also for food.

Amaranthus is a rather unpretentious plant. It does not require much attention or special care. It easily tolerates drought, light frosts, and high temperatures. amaranthus can grow on any soil in any climate zone except swampy. But when all is said and done, the plant prefers light and warmth.

At the beginning of the 20th century, Amaranthus was recognized as a plant of the future at the United Nations General Assembly. At this meeting, the cultivation of the plant and its useful qualities were discussed.

It turned out that Amaranthus is a plant that is not very demanding and can be grown in almost any condition. Of course, many people in this situation may object.

HOW TO GROW AMARANTHUS IN THE APARTMENT? But this is quite possible, as long as you know the step-by-step instructions and follow them. So, to grow Amaranthus on the windowsill, you need.

1. Amaranthus seeds. You can buy them at any gardening store. 2. Soil for seedlings, because you can prepare it yourself, you need three parts of humus and one part of sterile sand. 3. the container in which you will plant Amaranthus, its height should be no less than 4inch (10 cm) and at the bottom should be made holes for water drainage, otherwise, the seeds just rotted away. The width of the container should be a little narrower than the windowsill, and do not forget to have a special holder for the remaining water that will flow down after watering. 4. Food film, a small trowel, watering can, or sprayer.

When you have bought everything you need, you can start sowing the seeds. It should be remembered that Amaranthus is a heat-loving plant, so even in an apartment, the best months to plant it are from May until the end of September. Let's proceed to plant Amaranthus seeds with step-by-step instructions.

1. Pour the soil into the pot where Amaranthus is growing and mix it well, making sure there are no clumps of soil. 2. Take another bucket, but one-fifth of the soil into it, pour the seeds there and mix well. 3. Spread the remaining soil in the pot evenly and sprinkle it with a little standing water or spray it with a sprayer. 4. Scatter the soil with seeds into the pot and spread it evenly, then water it in the same way or spray it with a sprayer. 5. Cover the pot with plastic wrap. 6. Place the pot on a windowsill. Amaranthus is a light-loving and heat-loving plant, so a windowsill is an ideal place to grow it.

Don't forget to moisten the soil daily. If you do everything as instructed, the first buds will appear in 4 to 5 days. When Amaranthus grows 1-1.5inch (2-4cm), it is ready to eat.

GROWING AMARANTHUS ON A WINDOWSILL If you want to grow a mature plant on your balcony, it is worth having patience. When Amaranthus seeds germinate and 3-4 leaves appear on the buds, this is a sign that the plant can be transplanted to a separate pot. Plastic cups can be used in this case. To transplant seedlings.

1. In a plastic cup or small pot, fill it with soil and water it gently. 2. Make a small depression in each pot and plant a seedling there. 3. Water the plant. 4. Pinch the tops of the sprouts slightly, a process that helps strengthen the roots of each plant.

Although Amaranthus is used to dry climates, don't forget to water it regularly and spray it with a sprayer. Also, tamp down the soil in each pot regularly. When the plants are about 8-10inch (20-25cm) tall, they are ready for use as food.

Amaranthus leaves are an important part of a healthy diet. Modern research has confirmed that Amaranthus contains a large number of plant proteins that are not inferior to animal proteins in their properties. Amaranthus leaves also contain another rare Amaranthus component called squalene. It helps to prolong youth at the cellular level.

Amaranthus leaves have applications in many different fields and are very popular in cooking. Growing a few Amaranthus bushes on your balcony will not only diversify your diet but also improve your health.

GROWING AMARANTHUS FROM SEEDS To grow Amaranthus in a plot, simply sow its seeds in a bed, or plant seedlings.

SOWING IN THE OPEN GROUND Only in areas where warmth has arrived in April, you can sow directly into the bed. During this month, sow the seeds into the ground. The ground should be sufficiently heated.

The first shoots appear in about 10 days. If the planting is too dense, the seedlings should be thinned. After that, be sure to loosen the soil.

GERMINATION AT HOME More often, the seedling method is used. It is not difficult to grow Amaranthus seedlings independently. It is only necessary to follow the recommendations of some experienced gardeners.

1. Sowing seedlings is best to start sowing in March. 2. It is best to sow seeds with a mixture of humus and sand. This mixture must be warmed up before planting to protect the future shoots from fungi and pests. 3. The container in which you intend to sow Amaranthus should be high enough, not less than 4inch (10cm). 4. You should make small holes in the boxes and pots so that excess water can flow out of them. Otherwise, it may cause the seedlings to rot and die. 5. Sow the seeds at a depth of 0.6-0.8inch (1.5-2cm). Moisten the soil lightly before sowing. 6. Cover the container with aluminum foil and place it in a warm place away from light. 7. The time of the first germination in the home depends on the temperature in the room. At 71°F (22°C), sprouts have appeared in 3-4 days. At temperatures below 60°F (16°C), seeds will germinate in no more than 10 days at the earliest. 8. Be sure to thin the seedlings. 9. After 3 or 4 leaves appear transplant each plant into a separate container. Immediately after transplanting, prune the top of the seedlings. This will help the roots get stronger faster.

PLANTING SEEDLINGS Start planting seedlings in the open ground in May, when the average temperature is around 4 degrees. At this temperature, the soil is already warm.

Choose a sunny and warm place for planting. Prepare the soil for sowing in the fall. Turn it over and apply mineral fertilizer and humus. The very seedling itself must be hardened before planting. Then it will be able to withstand a little frost.

AMARANTHUS CARE Caring for the plant at home is easy. It consists of the following.

1. Watering: It should be regular and also moderate. 2. Weeding and hoeing. 3. Tying the stems. This procedure should enable the stems to bear the weight of the flowers without breaking under them. 4. Pest and disease control. 5. Fertilization with mineral and organic fertilizers.

In June, young plants are pruned at the very top of the stem. This helps the plant to grow well. The stems will become thicker and produce a large number of ovaries.

Important: Amaranthus takes 3-3.5 months from sowing to full maturity. This is true for both species as vegetable plants and as ornamentals.

SEED COLLECTION You can start harvesting seeds in the fall. They are not difficult to collect. the roots of Amaranthus are cut. The clusters should be spread out on any flat surface and left to dry. The whole drying process should last for about 2 months.

After that, Amaranthus is sifted through a fine sieve. The sieved seeds are also spread thinly on the surface and left to dry for some more time. Normally, the seeds will dry out in 10 days.

Place the prepared seeds in a paper bag. Already next year, they can grow new plants. Their storage period is 4-5 years.

SOWING AMARANTHUS SEEDS IN OPEN FIELDS. Amaranthus should only be sown directly into the ground in the southern part of the country. Choose a sunny, dry, and sheltered place when sowing. Keep in mind that the plant does not tolerate stagnant water in the soil. Site preparation before sowing depends on what you are after.

If Amaranthus is to be grown as an ornamental, even the loosest stony soil is suitable for it. But if it is to be used for food - make sure the soil is light, well-drained, moderately acidic, and rich in useful substances.

WHEN TO SOW AMARANTHUS SEEDS IN THE OPEN FIELD? The sowing time is from the end of April to mid-May. It is important that this is when the weather is warming up and the soil has warmed up to 50°F (10°C). In the fall, turn the soil by adding compost, peat, or fertilizer.

Repeat digging in the spring to add mineral fertilizer and loosen the soil thoroughly to even out the soil. amaranthus is particularly important for the phosphorus and potassium content of the soil. If growing Amaranthus for food, avoid fertilizers with high nitrogen content, as these can turn into dangerous nitrates.

Be sure to water well and prepare trenches 16-20inch (40-50 cm) apart and about 0.6inch (1.5 cm) deep. Then sow the seeds in them, cover them with a thin layer of soil and compact them slightly.

In case of frost, the young plants should always be covered. During the first month after the seedlings are born, weed and loosen the soil frequently. Be very careful when using a hoe or mattock, as Amaranthus has very shallow lateral roots.

When Amaranthus grows, remove weak plants: for healthy growth, the shrubs should be at least 12-16inch (30-40cm) apart. As an adult, Amaranthus is not very demanding and does not require constant care.

In colder regions, you can sow Amaranthus in the open ground in a greenhouse near the end of May and transfer it to the open ground in June. You can also sow Amaranthus in the winter and wait for the ground to freeze before planting.

The crop is covered with sawdust or fleece. In spring, the cover is removed, but in the bed must be put arc and stretch film.

CULTIVATION OF AMARANTHUS SEEDLINGS Starting germination of Amaranthus seedlings can be started in early March. Since the plants take a long time to germinate, soak the seeds in advance to allow them to germinate slightly, but not to sprout.

Amaranthus soil can be made from a mixture of leaf rot, peat, and garden soil in equal proportions. Add some superphosphate or wood ash. If you do not want to prepare your own soil, you can buy peat pots for Amaranthus, a plant that really likes a loose, nutrient-rich environment.

Seedlings must be kept at a temperature of at least 68°F (20°C) for germination. It is best to cover the box with a plastic sheet and place it in a warm, well-lit place. During this stage, watering should be moderate and regular, preferably using a sprayer. Sprouting will occur in about two weeks, after which Amaranthus should be thinned to allow the seedlings to develop fully.

AMARANTHUS GERMINATION When 3-4 leaves appear on the buds, each seedling should be transplanted into a separate pot. The pots should be at least 5inch (12cm) in diameter. Fill each pot with soil. It is best to use the same soil as when the seeds were germinated.

Wet the soil where the seedlings will grow beforehand, and only then gently remove each seedling. Make hollows in the soil and plant the seedlings in them. Water the plants. Pinch the tops of the shoots after each seedling is transplanted into a separate pot.

This will help the roots become stronger. Before planting, feed the seedlings in two stages: when the first true leaves appear and after 10-15 days. As a fertilizer, you can use any complex mineral fertilizer.

AMARANTHUS: OPEN FIELD TRANSPLANTING OF SEEDLINGS Amaranthus seedlings can be planted in the open ground in the Urals in late May when the average daily temperature is above 41°F (5°C). At this time the ground has warmed sufficiently and there is no danger of frost. It is best to do this on cloudy days or at sunset. Prepare the seedbed in the same way as for sowing.

Dig holes about 8inch (20cm) deep at a distance of about half a meter apart. Plant three to four plants each. After that, water extensively and apply the foliar cover. To acclimatize the plants better, it is worthwhile to harden Amaranthus buds outdoors daily for about a month before planting, gradually increasing their stay in the open air.

OUTDOOR CARE FOR AMARANTHUS Amaranthus is fairly unpretentious in terms of care; it does not require much water or any special conditions. However, in order to make sure that the plant does not die and gives a good harvest, you need to follow some rules of its care.

Throughout the summer Amaranthus needs organic and mineral fertilizers. Although Amaranthus is drought tolerant, it must be watered frequently during the very hot summer months or it will stop growing. Weed and soak plants as needed.

Be sure to tie up tall Amaranthus so that its branches do not break under the weight of the flowers. Prick the top of the plant in June, then the shrub will be lusher, the stalks will be stable, and the number of ovaries on the branches will be greater.

AMARANTHUS: DISEASES AND PESTS Amaranthus can be attacked by aphids. Amaranthus can only be damaged by aphids early in its life - mainly during the humid and rainy summer months. To avoid this, preventive measures must be taken on the plant.

The same preparations are also very effective against weevils, whose larvae develop in the plant stems and retard their growth. If too much water accumulates in the soil, Amaranthus can become sick from fungal diseases. Treatment is provided by spraying the plants with fungicides - colloidal sulfur, copper sulfate, copper chloride, and similar preparations.

OBTAINING AMARANTHUS SEEDS In order to grow Amaranthus, seeds can be bought in any specialized store. But it is also possible to obtain Amaranthus seeds yourself. To do this, cut Amaranthus at the very base and hang the panicles for 2 months to allow them to dry completely.

The drying room should be dry and well ventilated. after 2 months, sift the panicles through a sieve with a very fine mesh. Place the seeds on the surface of the same well-ventilated room for another 7 to 10 days. Stir the seeds regularly.

Make sure that no rodents come into contact with the seeds. Spread branches of elderberry around the seeds. Place the dried seeds in a paper envelope or box. They can be stored for 4-5 years.

Amaranthus was, until recently, a plant of little interest to amateur gardeners. As information about its unique medicinal properties emerged, interest in it increased dramatically.

Thanks to scientific breeders obtained ornamental varieties, successfully used to decorate gardens and homes. Amaranthus is a great decoration for any garden: low-growing varieties are suitable for decorating flower beds, squares, and containers, and tall-growing varieties look good in the center of hedges and flower beds.

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Author: Ms.Geneva Link: https://www.thumbgarden.com/growing-amaranth-in-containers/ Source: ThumbGarden The copyright belongs to the author. For commercial reprints, please contact the author for authorization, and for non-commercial reprints, please indicate the source.