#day 2 of melafix

[daughterofsarenrae]

Please Kal pull thru... keep fighting....

[chipped-chimera]

Time, yet again, to wade into a pit of contradictory information as I try to determine what I should do about my nuked tetra population while I'm still doing ich treatment.

(if you have some ideas/opinions about what I should do context below)

This is my first tank, so please be nice 🥺

I have a heavily planted, 20gallon (76L) freshwater aquarium which I had probably researched for about 3 months, then ran empty/with plants for about a month or so? before fish introduction. So absolutely cycled, bombproof setup that I have not seen a whiff of ammonia or nitrates in since I started testing (probably a month after it being cycling empty when my kit arrived).

I introduced 10 green neon tetra, which grew confident very quick within the new tank, like within the next day stopped schooling behaviour, bopping around and doing their own thing. But then I saw white spots appearing. In my delay of trying to determine if it was actually ich and conflicting info about it being 'stress ich' that could minimize in time with the stress reduction - probably me delaying it too because the meds were expensive - I probably doomed them.

I'm angry and sad at the same time, in part towards myself but mostly because I'm mad at the contradictory info leading to delay on a situation that was more time critical given the size of these little fish. Which I think led to their deaths.

I know quarantine is important but given my tank is heavily planted, I was struggling with bioload - as in not enough - so on the day I started ich treatment I put in 6 corycats which have been absolutely fine. So fine in fact I've noticed their barbels getting much longer! They're having a great time in there, and while I've seen some showing sign of being itchy, I've never seen a spot appear. Same with the Starlight Bristlenose, who was actually the first resident - she's weathered the ich outbreak pre-treatment fine (yeah I know it's hard to tell given she's a starlight but I've had a good look at her when I could, she's clear) and while she hides a lot during the day, I think she's happy - there are a stupid amount of tunnels and hidey holes in my setup, the centerpiece is a huge slab of driftwood so she has plenty to rasp on too. All the food is also the best quality I could get, and they get blanched veggies twice a week.

Unfortunately though, the delay was too late for the Tetra. First I lost one. Then more. I went from 10 to 3 today, if I am lucky it will stay at 3. Two of them look very good. One of them has minor body spotting. Worst comes to worst, it'll be 2. I think it'll stay that way, nothing new has been appearing.

What I am worried about now is I know the minimum for tetra is 8. While these guys I think know fairly well the tank is safe, and the presence of the corycats might help in terms of them having another grouping fish around to help them feel more confident, I don't want to be causing them unnecessary stress that might make the situation worse. Two of them left are grouping together, the one I am uncertain about is often hanging out on it's own which is making me worried I'll lose it too.

I am early on in the treatment at full dosage (I spent more time cranking up the dosage slowly since this is a planted tank with inverts, so that probably didn't help the ich situation) 25%~30% water changes daily.

Naturally online opinion on 'should I add fish during ich treatment' is about as confusing as it was when I was just trying to find info on ich. Some say hard no. Some say it's always in tanks anyway, it's the stress, may as well chuck them in during treatment. I'm going to have to grab another bottle of the stuff (so bleeding expensive) and I don't want to use more of it on a quarantine tank - right now anyway.

The treatment I am doing specifically targets parasites (Seachem Paraguard) but I also have Melafix and Pimafix, though I haven't really been dosing either since the smell of it I think irritates the tetra, and Paraguard supposedly has antibacterial elements that also target finrot. If I were to add new fish, I'd probably start adding both during the day, Paraguard goes in at night after a waterchange because it's lights-off after that (degrades under light).

If I added new fish, I'd be doing that for 14 days + maybe one more week just in case. But yeah, I have no fucking clue what to do and I very much want to not fuck this up anymore.

I'm also honestly kind of put off by tetra at this point - compared to the corycats they are very, very nervous and twitchy I think which didn't help their stress levels, even with me trying to make it as stress-free as possible. But also know I'm probably stuck with them if I want them to feel better.

Any thoughts/opinions would be good. I don't really have other treatment options available either btw, either because products are literally not available or the risk of killing plants/hurting other fish is too high (heat is NOT an option, corycats upper-limit is 26C so that's what the tank is set to)

My gut says it's probably okay to add fish, if I keep up treatment. But idk anymore :C

[skippygoldfish]

✨ greature update ✨

salami is doing well and is moving around the tank more now that i dampened the filter flow, although he rests a lot. stripe mostly hides in the day but is looking good and fat when i see him, although his fins are seemingly permanently nubby.

ive ordered prazipro to deworm the goldfish and cichlid sand to put in once treatment is done, to keep the pH high. i started a melafix treatment the other day which is just a light antibiotic- the last dose is today and theyll get a water change tomorrow. aside from skippy's spots they're all looking and acting good. dandy is cute as a button and i think her wen is getting a lil bigger.

beaver has been just hanging out and seems to be getting some more appetite again. she ate 4 bugs yesterday instead of just 1 or 2 (in offer every second or third day), 2 of which were isopods, hallelujah. and they were calcium dusted yum.

the end everyone have good luck with your creatures ily

[reptile-room]

I know this isn't reptile related... However, to those who have fish/bettas and have dealt with popeye, I have a question:

I have had a betta for several months now, and he always had a single cateract/cloudy eye, which I tried treating for cloudy eye just in case. Then, eventually, he developed popeye in that same clouded eye; the other eye is fine - completely clear and no swelling. Nobody else in the community tank has developed popeye either.

In the previous community tank:

Stress Coat+ treated Spring Water

Stress Zyme+

Melafix

Planted substrate

Java ferns

Anubias on driftwood ×2

Oriental sword

Dwarf lily

Sanded coconut hide

6 Neon Tetras, 3 Kuhli Loach, 1 betta, and 1 snail (a bit too stocked at the time, ik, we have since dwindled down how much is in the tank)

Water parameters:

0ppm Ammonia

20ppm Nitrates

0ppm Nitrites

7.0 Ph

Medium General Hardness/Hardness (Trying to remember my last strip reading since I use the kit now)

Water temps:

75°-78°F *has a heater

In the current tank:

Stress Coat+ treated Spring Water

Planted gravel for substrate

Stress Zyme+

Seachem Stability (Used it to help Cycle)

Spiderwood

Narrowleaf temple plant ×2

Mopani Wood

Coconut hide

1 Betta

Water Parameters:

0ppm Ammonia

0ppm Nitrates

0ppm Nitrites

7.5 Ph

High General Hardness/Hardness (I use the Freshwater Test Kit now instead of the strips, so I'm going off my last reading with the strip)

Water temps:

75°-77°F

Here is what I've already tried:

• Seachem Kanaplex

• Seachem Metroplex

• API Pimafix *just started

• API Melafix

• API Fin & Body Cure

• API Aquarium Salt Soaks with slightly extra Stress Coat+ at 8 mins per night.

The swelling goes down with the soaks but always comes back the next day. If I miss a day by accident, the swelling gets worse. I've already called an aquarium store and discussed possibilities with them, but I need to hear from more people now, too.

Now, onto the question at hand:

Do you think it's incurable eye flukes or just one helluva stubborn eye infection/injury?

[whumpbby]

Hi! So this is kind of a random ask, but I know you have beta fish, and I’m considering getting one. I’ve had beta fish in the past, and despite educating myself on how to take care of them they haven’t lived very long, so I’m hoping you’ll be able to help me. For my past beta fish, I keep them in a five gallon tank (for clarification, I never had more than one beta fish at a time. So I didn’t have multiple of them in the tank don’t worry—they just all lived at different times in the same tank) that had a filter with a pretty low flow on it. I never saw any of the fish have problems swimming with it on. I always used a highly rated water purifying product for the tank water (I forgot what it’s actually called) and I never had any sharp plants that would hurt their fins. I fed them a little every two days because I heard that feeding them everyday was bad for them. Do you happen to know what I was doing wrong? It was frustrating for me because I put a lot of effort into keeping them alive and healthy and then I would see people who kept them in small half gallon bowls have their fish outlive mine. It’s been a couple years, and I want to get another, but I don’t want to accident hurt/kill another one. How do you care for your beta fish? Do you have any advice? Sorry about the rant, but I follow you for your Jason content and happened to stumble upon some of you fish posts and need help. Thanks so much for reading this, and if you do end up offering any advice, I want to thank you for that too!

Hi dear, sorry if I took long to answer - tumblr notoriously does not inform me of messages>> 

I understand your pain - especially that the situation with bettas is very frustrating. They tend to suffer from quite a few genetic defects (they are prone to tumours, for example) and are a very abused fish in the aquatic industry.  Oftentimes by the time they will get to a caring and dedicated owner, they’ve already went through a lot:0 We just don’t know how healthy the fish is before we got it. 

I am by no means an expert, I have lost a few babies since I started the hobby a couple years ago and I can only assume what a few of them suffered from:( One thing that seems to work is leaving them and the tank alone for as long as you can once it’s all set up and cycled and running - apart form the regular maintenance. I am a chronic fiddler who needs to change and add plants, filters, etc, so I constantly have to hold myself back form doing things to the tank. My sister has the same betta for a second year now and the only thing she does with her tank is water changes once every couple weeks - and both him and a thousand of cherry shrimp that live there thriveXD 

Some things I nowadays pay attention to that may be useful, however, are:

- water temp has to be consistent, on the warmer side. I keep mine at 26-27C (I don’t know how much that is in F, sorry>>). To that effect the tank needs a lid - it will trap the warm air, protecting the betta form inhaling cold air then they come up for a breath. They labyrinth breathing organ is quite sensitive to that.

- I feed my boys twice a day, so I am not a part of the ‘feed them little’ club. I give them a little pinch of the good flake in the morning (Bug Bites is nice) and a 3-4 granules of a King Betta or a pinch of a protein-rich micro pellets in the evening. A betta breeder I talked to a couple times advised that it’s better to feed the boys a couple times a day in small quantities rather than once - keeps their digestive tracts working and they can avoid constipation. Constipation happens often with bettas and is a headache to solve. I leave frozen bloodworms for special occasions and just rotate the dry foods for variety.  

- I change water every week - and every other week make sure to vacuum gravel the substrate. In the planted tanks I vacuum only about 2-3cm of the top layer to not disturb planting substrate below and not to suck up any shrimp, so it’s a gentle operation. In the gravel where there is no growing substrate I go deep - the reason being that I want to free any possible air bubbles stuck underneath where bad bacteria may grow. 

- Pick a filter and stick to it. I was very bad at that, but I finally managed to hotwire a combo that seems to work so I will stick to it;) If you can stand the noise, I advise a sponge filter - it’s so easy to clean and manageTT If you can’t stand the hum of the air pump and the bubbles, I recommend a matten filter - or hotwiring an internal filter to a sponge filter - like so - instruction in German, but the visuals are very self-explanatory;] I used gel superglue to connect the filterhead to a sponge filter and now all I have to do once a month or rarer is to pull the sponge off and squeeze it few times in the used tank water! And sometimes clean the showerhead from algae;] It saves you so much money on the cartridges (corner sponge filters are a couple £/$ and last years) and provides extra filtration. My shrimps also eat off it;] 

- get a snail. Seriously, I have a snail in every tank - a single nerite will do best for a 5gal. They don’t breed in sweet water, don’t grow large and will keep your glass clean for you - I have not cleaned my tanks’ glass since... ever>> Joe I and Joe II do it for meXD They also provide company for the betta and something fun to look at. And he will scarf uneaten food form the gravel. 

- I assume you know about the nitrogen cycle, so I will not bore you here about bacteria and such. But a best chance of saving the betta form stress when you get him home is a cycled tank. You can get an ammonia testing set - or, if you find that a bit intimidating (I do for some reason) you can go to an aquarist shop and they will check your water for you. My local store in town does it for free. I am not sure about big box stores, tho. If you see something being wrong with the betta, check water and see if it needs to be changed asap. 

- water changes are mandatory and have to be regular. A 5gal is a convenient size - I am using a 5l bottle left over from mineral water as a measuring tool;) This way I know I am always changing roughly 1/4th of the tank’s water. It’s very easy to see how much water I removed and how much I have to put back in - I can control the water temp and add dechlotinator/vitamins etc before it goes into the tank, so I do not shock my critters with too hot or too cold water. The rule I practice is leaving the dechlorinator in the bottle for about 10 mins before pouring it all into the tank. 

- you don’t have to be intimidated by planted tanks:) A little bunch of anubias on a stick is often enough to start with and a good look for a tank, in my opinion. It also makes for a more natural space for the betta he will certainly appreciate. The less fancy stuff the better - I got my first natural rocks form the side of the road (ofc I boiled the life out of them before they got even close to the tank) and they are usually quite cheap on amazon. A stick with a plant and a rock and some small-size gravel is often enough to look good. The plants will also help with eating up nitrites and keeping the water healthy.

- goodness, what else. Medicaiton. Ok. I have tried many meds for my boys and once the fish is in a bad way not much will help, form my experience :( My med set consists of Melafix - I add it to water according to instructions whenever I see my betta without appetite or acting off. It’s a mild anti-bacterial mixture that does not affect snails/shrimp. If that does not help, I use eSHa 2000 or eSHa Exit - they are two very comprehensive meds that deal with a variety of problems. I have never used aquarium salt, but some people swear by it - there’s no specific reason I don’t use it, I just never got around to it.  

This is all the chaotic advice, but things to remember (I am not trying to be condescending, I just don't know how much you know;]) are: cycled tank, regular water changes&filter maintenance, consistent temperature and quality food. Bettas are hardy little suckers, but sometimes they are also frail in ways we can’t see until it’s too late. I am already seeing a tumour growing on one of my boys and there is nothing I can do about it except giving him the best life I can - he is still going strong, but I know he will probably not last to the end of the year. It’s a hobby that sometimes seems thankless, but if you do everything right, even if they leave early, at least you’ve given them a good and peaceful time before that:)

If I you have any more questions or just want to share woes, feel free to message, I will do my best to answer:)

[darla88b-blog]

IGNORANCE IS NOT BLISS!!!! I ACCIDENTALLY POISONED MY BETTA BY ADDING MELAFIX AND NEED HELP TO LEARN WHAT TO DO TO SAVE HIM.

I changed my bettas tank about 2 weeks ago and added melafix for the first time. After a few days he was eating and moving less, hanging out at the top trying to breathe, so I figured whatever was wrong prior, the melafix would help so I added another dose to his tank. Tonight he's really just terrible looking, barely moving, hanging at the surface, eaten very little all week long.

I've never had a fish before, adopted this guy from friends who were moving and didn't want to take him. They gave him to me in a vase, which he couldn't have been loving life in so I bought him a 5 gallon tank which he's been living in for several months now happy as can be... Until that is, my elderly father with dementia repeatedly tapped on his tank (I call it his house). Dory went from making bubble nests (which I was completely oblivious to and learned about after much of the surface was bubbles so I googled it). I talked to him constantly like he was the sweetest cutest baby ever. WHICH HE ABSOLUTELY IS!! He's my baby guy and I didn't mean to do anything ever to hurt him, yet I have.

I've been trying to figure out what to do for him as he became distant, less active, slow. He looked like he was growing mold, so I researched what it could be and what to do to help him heal. Which is where melafix came in, and my ignorance. I didn't want him suffering, and I found many good reviews for melafix. The one item I could find locally fast.

Fast forward a couple weeks and he's so lethargic I assumed it was the infection growing on him. I did more research and came upon information, that melafix and betafix are toxic to bettas and only aquarium salt should be used for these guys. So I immediately transferred him to clean water with only quick start (I've used distilled water in the past and he didn't do super well with it, so I tried tap water with quick start. Which he seemed to do better in, so I stuck with it)

What else can/should I do? What are the chances he recovers?

[fishisms]

so, Dracula right?

he got here about a month ago and as expected he’d done quite a number on his fins, presumably from the stress of shipping. he managed to get the front half of his dorsal fin and there’s 2 large chunks missing from his anal fin.

here’s pics taken while he was checking out his tank a few days after i’d gotten him. 

and about a week later...

and after i’d gotten my hands on a bottle of melafix and after he’d finally started eating Actual Pellets (as opposed to exclusively daphnia.)

and now! he’s still got a ways to go but he’s made strides since i’ve had him and i’m totally in love.

[littlecupcakesstudyblr]

This is Ares. He is currently in a split 5 gallon with one of my females, Persephone. In the photos he was in a 2.5 gallon. Ares is a red and iridescent pink dragonscale betta. I think he is around a 1-1.5 years old.

He is a very beautiful boy, but because I purchased him from a chain petstore he comes with bad health due to breeding. Currently I'm treating him for fin rot that started to show up a few days after I got him settled in.

Ares is a very angry boi who loves to flare at anyone who will give him attention. He likes his live plants and laying down on his heater (weirdo).

He is one of my favorite fish by looks, because he is really different from any fish I usually see online or in stores. But so far he has been my hardest fish to get in tip top health.

He went through a whole treatment of fin rot meds with no improvement so I've moved to Melafix for treating his fins. On day 2, and waiting to see results.

I hope you enjoyed meeting my baby! You will see more of him and updates on his treatment.

I'm hoping to introduce you to all of my fish.

[bettas-and-other-oddities]

Basic Betta Care Guide:

This will be a bare minimum care guide for betta care. As with most of everything on this blog, it is mostly going to be based on my experience of keeping bettas, stuff that I have researched, and full of sarcasm. Please, with any new pet, do research of your own to ensure that you know how to properly take care of your animal, or you may end up torturing or killing your animal.

TANK SIZE

There is a bit of debate on the betta community about the minimum tank size for a betta fish. In my eyes, a 5 gallon (~19L) for a permanent home. You can use a 2.5 for a small hospital tank, or for a temp tank if you suddenly came into ownership of a betta. If you choose a 2.5, please look into getting at least a 5 gallon (~19L) for your betta. Bettas love lots of space to swim and explore, as well as water quality is easier to maintain in a large tank. 5 gallons (~19L) are also the smallest tank that can safely maintain a stable tank cycle. Besides, the bigger the tank, the more you can decorate.

CYCLE YOUR TANK

The niteogen cycle is this big long process that is invisible to the eye. A short hand explanation is basically benificial bactera grows in your tank when you have an ammonia source, like fish waste, and it grows and grows until the bacteria is able to convert your ammonia and waste into other chemicals and such. I'm not so great at describing cycling, so here is a great link to look into!

Cycling your tank is a long and boring process, and it can happen anywhere between 2-8 weeks. Its long and boring, but putting a fish in an uncycled tank (also called fish in cycling) can be detrimental to your fish, as it usually results in stress, ammonia burns, and even death. Here is another link in case you are reading this after you added a fish to a new aquarium.

You can use bottled bacteria, like Seachem stability, API quick start, or Tetra safe start to help speed it up, but there are some discussions on whether or not they actually help. You can also ask a friend that has tanks if you can have some of their filter media to add into your filter. I don't recomend getting pet store filter media, as you could accidentally introduce sickness or parasites.

A FILTER AND HEATER ARE REQUIRED, NOT OPTIONAL

Most people assume that a betta can just live in a cute little bowl for its whole life. Which is so wrong. Your tank absolutely needs a filter and a heater. Filters help keep a stable nitrogen cycle and helps reduce maintenance. A heater is needed as bettas are tropical fish, coming from places like Malaysia and Thailand where temps are a nice warm 78-90°. With a heater in your tank, it should keep your betta tank at a toasty 78-80° F ( 25-27° C). A cold tank can lower your bettas immune system which leads to illness, as well as it slows their metabolism and activity levels. A good filter and heater is key to a happy bettas. Here is a diagram of what wattage heater is needed for your tank size!

TANK DECORATIONS

Getting a new tank can be exciting when it comes to picking out decorations! But take a minute to think about them before you go hog wild on them. Bettas have very beautiful, and very delicate fins. You have to find decorations that won't cut up your new betta buddy. Live plants are a great option. They are very soft, and even help with your water quality. Low tech plants don't require a ton of additional care, and can look amazing. Here is a link to a website that gives you info on some easy to care for aquarium plants!

If you don't want to try out live plants, silk plants are also a good option for bettas. They are very papery plants that are soft and safe for a bettas fins. I have silk plants in both of my bettas tanks. They are also easier to clean, with just some hot water and a clean, non soapy toothbrush.

If you want non-plant decorations, its really inportant to make sure there are no sharp edges. You can test this by taking a nylon stocking and dragging it across the decorations. If it catches, it might not be so safe for fragile fins.

Always check the inside of your hides. It can be super soft and smooth in the outside, but the inside can have the sharp edges of seals and other things. Make sure your betta cant get stuck in them, as well.

Bettas also like to have a very heavily planted tank. They are fearful in large open spaces. Here is a couple ideas of a good betta tank.

PICKING OUT YOUR BETTA

Picking out a new buddy can be the most exciting part of starting the hobby. Its really important to decide where you want to get your betta. If you decide to go online and order a betta, make sure there are good reviews on the breeder. If people say that their betta never arrived, died during shipping and had to pay for a dead betta, or there is just poor quality bettas, its best to look for a different breeder. A good breeder will have a variety of pictures of the betta, and will be able to answer your questions about the betta you're intersted in. They also will have some good reviews. You can always ask the betta community for recommendation for breeders. I don't have a lot of experience with getting bettas online, so I don't have a lot of info on them. ***

If you plan on getting your betta at a pet store or local fish store, there are still some things to look for. You want to make sure the betta is active, and alert. They should also have healthy fins for their tail type. Small tears are okay of you plan on keeping your water clean and healthy. I don't recommend beginners going out and "rescuing" a sick betta, as you won't have a lot of experience dealing with illnesses, and could potentially end up with a dead betta within days of purchasing the fish. If you are experienced and want to help a sick fish, go ahead and help it.

Its also a good idea to go to the store, look at the bettas, and go home and research the type of betta you liked the most. Some betta types have lots of health issues. Twin tails are more susceptible to swim bladder, dragon scales often go blind, and "rarer" breeds like black orchids and platinum can have health issues from breeding. Pet store bettas are also just in general less healthy than normal due to the disgusting amount of over breeding.

TANK MAINTENCE

Now that you have everything set up, you have your betta buddy, don't sit down and relax yet. There is still a lot of care maintaining your new tank. Usually you need to conduct 25-30% weekly water changes on your tank, and also make sure everything in your tank is healthy. Maintence can include water changes, cleaning the inside of the glass to clean off algae, trimming back plants when the get too long, and cleaning your gravel. A lot of new fish keepers just assume you can throw a fish in a tank and that's all there is too it. Unfortunately, that's not the case. A fish tank is maintence. If that's not for you, its best to stop reading and consider a pet rock or a fake houseplant. Not keeping up on your maintence can lead to a gross looking tank and sometimes death.

FEEDING AND FOOD

Its easy to feed a betta, but harder to find a food that's actually good for your betta. Sure, it can eat goldfish flakes, but its not good for it. Usually for food, I recommend frozen blood worms, daphnia worms, fluval bug bites, and omega one betta pellets. Its good to vary up your bettas diet.

The pet store may tell you that you only need to feed your betta once a week, but thats usually because bettas are in cups and they need to reduce waste, and the bettas don't need that many calories. Your betta at home is going to need more food. I feed my bettas almost every day, with fasting days throughout the week. Its important to know that a bettas stomach is only about the size of their eye, and over feeding is really easy. They only need 2-4 pellets of food per day. You can split that up into two feedings, or do it all at once. As much as your betta begs for food, don't over feed them. It can lead to health issues.

WHAT TO DO IF YOUR FISH GETS SICK

You can do everything right, and keep your water pristine, and still end up with some sort of sickness. And that's okay! Most illnesses are very treatable. The most common illnesses with bettas are swim bladder and fin rot. Swim bladder is usually caused by over feeding. Here is a link to a website that better explains it, and how to treat it!

The other most common one is fin rot. This usually happens due to a cut on the fins that gets infected. It can look like a black or red outline on the fins, and the fins look tattered and broken. Here is a picture of my late fish Tofu that had a bad case of fin rot.

Usually, warm clean water and taking out decorations that are sharp will help. If it doesn't, there are some awesome over the counter medications you can get to help it. Stay away from pimafix or melafix, as they are mostly tea tree oil and the oil will end up coating the bettas labyrinth organ and suffocate the betta.

If your betta doesn't look or act normal, consult a veterinarian or ask a local betta keeper/expert, and they can help you.

Here is a website that I like that helps with betta diseases.

SHOPPING LIST

Here is a quick shopping list of things you will need to set up a new tank!

Tank at least 5gallons (~19L)

Water conditioner (I recomend Seachem Prime)

Soft decorations/plants/gravel

Heater

Filter (depending on the filter I would get filter floss to house your bacteria)

(Optional) bottled bacteria

API master test kit to test your parameters

Water siphon/gravel vac (helps with water changes)

Betta food

Your new betta buddy (for after you've set up and cycled your tank)

I hope that this was helpful to people wanting to get into the hobby. Please feel free to reblog and add things as you see fit! I hope you guys enjoy!

***I usually get my fish from my local pet store. I don't quite know how the fish process is when ordering from an online breeder, I only know as much as comparing it to getting a dog from a breeder. Please feel free to reblog or messege me with a more accurate explanation/guide to betta breeders!

[impossiblesandwichtyrant]

Hartz Flea & Tick Spray - What Are The Main Benefits?

Hartz Flea & Tick Spray - What Are The Main Benefits?

Industry Trends indicate that hartz flea and tick spray are one of the hottest products on the market right now. Fleas and ticks are increasing all over the world and have become an increasing nuisance to many homeowners. These parasites can cause itching, scratching, and can even be dangerous to people and pets. There has been a noticeable increase in hartz flea and tick spray sales over the past few months.

This is largely due to the fact that many of the symptoms associated with fleas and ticks can mimic those of certain types of food poisoning. With this in mind, hartz flea and tick treatment are a great solution. People will also find it convenient and less cumbersome to use compared to other methods available on the market. Here's a quick look at some of the perks of using this product for your pets and cats.

The main reason why hartz flea and tick spray are so popular right now is because it is a wonderful alternative to flea control chemicals. Many people prefer to use organic methods when dealing with insects and bugs. It is important to always keep your family healthy. The development of cancerous cells is just one reason why it is crucial to keep the environment clean and clear of any potential toxins. Toxins left unchecked can lead to a number of different diseases and illnesses.

One of the reasons why so many people find hartz flea and tick spray market research report  so effective is because it contains an ingredient that is known to work quickly. Within just three days, you will notice a noticeable decrease in the amount of inflammation that your pet is experiencing. In addition to that, there will be fewer and fewer fleas around as well.

Another reason why it is becoming so popular in the world of flea management is because of its ability to work on both hot and cold weather conditions. You can expect the hartz flea and tick treatment to work on both these temperatures. You can use the product on a hot humid day and it will relieve the itching. On the other hand, you can apply it on a cool and dry June day and it will kill all of the fleas in your immediate area. In order to determine whether or not the product will have the same effect on each of these dates, it is recommended that you test it for a period of time before applying it to ensure that it will actually work.

If you are still doubting whether or not it is something worth investing in, consider the benefits of the Hartz Flea & Tick Shampoo. This shampoo works as an all-purpose flea control that can be used on dogs, cats, and other pets. It can also work on any situation where you notice that your pet has become infested with fleas. There have been a lot of positive customer reviews so far. In addition to that, it will work as a great alternative to flea collars because it does not irritate the skin of the animal.

You will notice that both the Hartz Flea & Tick Spray and the shampoo have been improved over the last few years. For example, there is a new ingredient called Melafix in the shampoo that will actually reduce the number of fleas that can infest your pets. However, there are still some minor setbacks with the products. One issue is that in early 2021 there are reports that it is causing some minor stomach issues in cats that are taking the medication. There is also a new component called Melafix UV that might cause redness for a short period of time in your cat's skin.

The Hartz Flea & Tick Spray will only require two weeks for your pet to see significant results, but it takes four days for the effects to disappear completely. However, if you keep your pet clean and keep him or her clean for three days, you will notice that you pet begins to experience less itching and minor gastrointestinal problems. You should see fewer fleas on your pets after the product is sprayed. If your pet continues to exhibit these symptoms after the application, contact your veterinarian immediately. Your veterinarian may decide that your pet should be tested for Lyme disease, which can lead to death if left untreated.

Summery

Summary The report forecast global Flea and Tick Product market to grow to reach xxx Million USD in 2019 with a CAGR of xx% during the period 2020-2025 due to coronavirus situation. The report offers detailed coverage of Flea and Tick Product industry and main market trends with impact of coronavirus. The market research includes historical and forecast market data, demand, application details, price trends, and company shares of the leading Flea and Tick Product by geography. The report splits the market size, by volume and value, on the basis of application type and geography. First, this report covers the present status and the future prospects of the global Flea and Tick Product market for 2015-2024. And in this report, we analyze global market from 5 geographies: Asia-Pacific[China, Southeast Asia, India, Japan, Korea, Western Asia], Europe[Germany, UK, France, Italy, Russia, Spain, Netherlands, Turkey, Switzerland], North America[United States, Canada, Mexico], Middle East & Africa[GCC, North Africa, South Africa], South America[Brazil, Argentina, Columbia, Chile, Peru]. At the same time, we classify Flea and Tick Product according to the type, application by geography. More importantly, the report includes major countries market based on the type and application. Finally, the report provides detailed profile and data information analysis of leading Flea and Tick Product company. Key Content of Chapters as follows (Including and can be customized) : Part 1: Market Overview, Development, and Segment by Type, Application & Region Part 2: Company information, Sales, Cost, Margin etc. Part 3: Global Market by company, Type, Application & Geography Part 4: Asia-Pacific Market by Type, Application & Geography Part 5: Europe Market by Type, Application & Geography Part 6: North America Market by Type, Application & Geography Part 7: South America Market by Type, Application & Geography Part 8: Middle East & Africa Market by Type, Application & Geography Part 9: Market Features Part 10: Investment Opportunity Part 11: Conclusion Market Segment as follows: By Region Asia-Pacific[China, Southeast Asia, India, Japan, Korea, Western Asia] Europe[Germany, UK, France, Italy, Russia, Spain, Netherlands, Turkey, Switzerland] North America[United States, Canada, Mexico] Middle East & Africa[GCC, North Africa, South Africa] South America[Brazil, Argentina, Columbia, Chile, Peru] Key Companies Merck Animal Health Virbac Corp. Ceva Sante Animale S.A. Bayer AG Sergeant's Pet Care Products The Hartz Mountain Corp Ecto Development Corp. Wellmark International Merial Animal Health Ltd. Eli Lilly and Co Market by Type Oral Pill Spray Spot On Powder Shampoo Collar Others Market by Application Vet Store Mass Merchandiser Pet Superstore Online Channel

For more details contact as https://www.reportmines.com/contact-us.php

[eyebugchewychomp]

My new rope Fish came with a, hidden at the time of purchase, case of gill rot. Anyone have any tips. I've never dealt with this in my time having fish. I'm using melafix right now. 2 days in and not much difference other than seeming to be a little more energetic. So much so that she scooted up into the filter using the biowheel as a pulley system. I really don't want to lose this little noodle.

[betta-mermaid]

Hi fishblr, I really need some help. A couple of weeks ago I noticed Nami’s tail had been torn/ripped. I kept an eye on him, and it got worse so I figured it might have been an ornament in his tank that he was sleeping in, so I removed it and purchased another more open one in hopes that he wouldn’t get caught. During this time I moved his tank to a different location in the room and his tail has gotten worse. It seems as though he is eating all the white off his fins, and I’m really worried. I did a melafix treatment for 7 days as stated on the bottle and when i came back from a few days of house sitting his tail was even worse. He gets fed twice a day; Hikari Betta bio-gold 4 pellets in the morning, then 2 Tetra blood worms at night. Water parameters are (tested with API master test kit) Ammonia: 0ppm pH: 7.6 Nitrite: 0ppm Nitrate: 0ppm Water temp. 24 degrees Celsius  if there are any other details i should provide let me know. I just don’t want him to keep hurting himself. I feel awful that I let it get this bad

[skippygoldfish]

gave the girls a 5min dip in a bucket with 3 tablespoons of salt and a hefty amount of melafix, about 5ml of the pond kind which is high concentration. I plan to do it again the next 2 days and siphon the tank. Wondering whether to remove the plants, since the dirt theyre planted in may host larval parasites, if thats the issue.

[origcmibird-aa]

oh geez, i hope your betta gets well soon! do you know what theyre sick with? maybe you can find some remedies.

     I did a 25% water change two days ago and gave my betta two pellets and a bloodworm that same day. He’s on the thin and small side however, so I believe that those pellets caused him bloat. ( He never gets stomach issues when I give him freeze dried bloodworms and mysis. ) I’m currently giving him his second salt bath.Yesterday I put him in an epsom salt bath and he defecated twice, and showed improvement last night. He seemed to be starting to swim fine again and had more energy, so I returned him to his tank. But this morning when I checked on him, he was lethargic yet again, and even when I put him back in the hospital tank, he’s started to lay on his side. I’ve been keeping the water low so he doesn’t expend too much energy trying to get oxygen, but it appears as though he doesn’t even have the strength to swim up a short way.I’m currently fasting him, but tomorrow (if he’s still alive by tomorrow,) I’m going to try and give him a bloodworm or some daphnia. I already tried giving him some green pea yesterday, but he wouldn’t take it. He doesn’t have any apparent wounds or injuries, his fins are fine and I don’t see any pineconing in the scales. In other words, I have no idea what else might be wrong with him. I’m worried its something internal and I’m pretty sure it has to do with those pellets he ate.For my medicine bay, I currently have some e.m. erythromycin, bettafix, melafix ( though i never use that, ) and maracyn-2. i’m hoping to stop by one of the local pet stores and pick up some almond leaf extract later tonight too.

[hopsjollyhigh]

The top image is from a few days ago, all others are from today. It's time for one of my posts about the Senator's white spot again. I've done so many things about this white spot. I've done salt dips, and a full course treatment of Furan 2 for the entire tank. But this white spot has never gone away and now, a couple months after the Furan 2 treatment, it seems like it's bothering him again. I'm using melafix and pimafix in a half-dose in the tank right now, just because I'm at a loss for what to do, and I have scaleless fish and snails, which makes my options for medication go down... I took the snails out for the Furan and ended up losing a couple because of poor acclimation. Part of me is questioning whether I should get just him a small hospital setup, but I don't know if this white spot is ever going to go away at this point. In the first picture, you can really see how the white is not growing on top of the scales- it's almost like a lack of pigment. It doesn't have a texture. He's had it for months. He eats very well and patrols his tank (a 20gal long) diligently. His only behavioral symptom is on and off scratching of that spot- and when I say on and off, I mean, he'll go weeks without doing anything about it. I know melafix and pimafix are controversial for labyrinth breathers, but I truly have no idea what to do. You can see that he got a fin tear within the last couple days, too. It's been such a long ordeal with this, and I really don't want to put him in a hospital tank unless it's 100% necessary, the whole process of acclimation makes me so nervous and the tank he's in is very stable, I don't know how he'd deal with a big change like that. Parameters are 0, 0, and 10-15. PH is higher than I want, at 7.5. I have acid and alkaline buffers to try and slowly lower that, but I'm having trouble figuring those out and I want to be very confident before I add that to the water. My tap water runs at high PH, it sucks. Any words of advice? Other fish are 6 glow light tetras and 3 panda corys, and I have some assorted nerite snails.

[bombdoll]

What a lovely dragon this is! He looks chuffed at his new digs, and knowing you they'll just get better! He landed himself one of the best people to be his keeper.

One thing I want to stress is that your fake plants have no metal (like an internal wire for bending or arranging), as many terarrium silk and plastic plants have such wires, and they can affect water quality massively. You may not need a heater in SE Asia to keep him happy, but the water should be 25° or higher (I keep mine at 28° typically). You may have access to Indian Almond Leaves / Catappa leaves, and if you do use a cleaned, dried leaf to tan the water. This will help with water quality and reducing stress. My boys, and even one of my girls, love to build their nests under and around the floating leaf. Ensure it doesn't block the entire surface, though, as these dudes are labyrinth fish as you know.

In the coming future, know to never, ever use a fish medicine that contains clove oil or anything that can interfere with the labyrinth organ (melafix, pimafix, bettafix), as this will render your fish unable to breathe and it will die horribly. Lord forbid something bad happens and there is fin rot, scale damage, red streaks, gill burns from ammonia or nitrate poisoning, and a plethora of other issues, methylene blue is your best friend in many cases. Have some anti-ich and/or anti parasite med on hand, AQ salt, and kanaplex, as well. When a betta gets sick you have anywhere from days to mere hours to fix it before its too late, depending on the issue, so preemptive med collecting is critical. Also, a water testing kit is never a bad idea, so you can see your water's baseline for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and PH. Bettas are surprisingly adaptive to PH but some city water sources are unfiltered and contain a lot of bio matter and are unsuitable for fish husbandry. In that case, use bottled water. I have done this many times when my city has flooded and the water supply became not only contaminated from floodwater but also chloramine as an effort to keep it potable, and chloramine is not good for fish husbandry, as our conditioners are not designed to nullify it.

In addition to a water conditioner you may have access to a slime coat replacement / additive in the conditioner section of your local store (stress coat is one), and this can be used to supplement or help repair a sloughed slime coat due to illness, or simply stressful events.

If you go the "live" (frozen) food route, be careful the brand of bloodworms or spirolina brine shrimp or whatever you use, as some brands are prone to contaminated stock (in Canada I get Hikari Bio Gold, as SanFran bay carries parasites often). I've even had some lousy luck with bad batches of dried pellets (omega one, you were good for years and then a new batch killed 2 darlings in one week, whyyy), but this Seachem dried betta pellet has not incurred any illness so it seems safe so far. I prefer pellets over flakes as I can control exactly what they eat by feeding them one pellet at a time and control waste and pollution this way.

If you can filter the tank, this would be good, but one must take care to ensure the flow is very low and the intake is not a danger to a betta, as their big fins can be sails to strong currents and be pulled into strong intakes. Also, a heavily disturbed surface is hard to take wee lil' gulps of air from. Baffling the spout, if it is an external filter, can reduce the flow. Baffling the intake is great to prevent fin damage and stress. Some bettas hate a current and will even avoid that side of a tank, so your dude's temperament will be something to consider.

I am by no means a betta expert- I'm self-and-internet-learned with the gentle guidance of a lovely local breeder who loved his babies- but I've had loads of experience figuring out what does and doesn't work for my babies. There's still lots of misinfo about them, and some toxic online communities. If you have any questions I am happy to oblige with my two bits, I'd love to save just one person from losing their child with my sad experience-gained knowledge. Anywho, its 5am and I've spent too long writing this aurghh time to sleep.

Edit: apologies if any of this is knowledge you already have. I know you were studying these dudes and you study hard so you may have already known some or all of this.

Accidental betta fish aquisition. Meet Bartelby.  Bartelby was gifted to my 3 year old niece a few weeks ago, and had been spending those weeks in that little jar in the bottom image. I don’t have…fish…keeping…supplies on hand, but I felt bad enough for the little dude that I requisitioned the largest one of my old mantis enclosures and tested it out to see if it could hold water. It did! So I put some of the fake plants I had sitting around from previous enclosures, and brought it all next door and gifted it as Bartelby’s new home. My sister in law–being a vet tech–was pretty happy to see the larger enclosure. But being in vacation mode (they’re visiting for four months from canada)–admitted that they weren’t expecting to have Bartelby dropped on them, and have been mostly unable to care for him properly. And then she asked if I could keep him in my house. SO. Bartelby… is now in my bedroom. To be honest, I have no idea what a healthy betta fish looks like, but as far as I can tell, Bartelby is looking a bit better than he could have been. Bartelby has been sitting in unconditioned tap water while in his little jar…and still is in this bigger set-up. There’s literally nothing I like about the current set-up he is in except that its got more space than that little jar… I’m gonna see if I can convince the husband to take me to the fish shop so that we can grab the necessary supplies/chemicals and accessories that will help make Bartelby’s life a little more comfortable.  My eventual goal will be to get him a natural planted tank… but first, lets focus on making his water survivable…