#composting in cold climates

[pddparthi]

Cold Composting: A Guide to Turning Waste into Nutrient-Rich Soil

Cold composting is a method of composting that involves allowing organic materials to decompose naturally over time, without the need for high temperatures or frequent turning. This method is often preferred by gardeners who want to recycle their yard waste and kitchen scraps, but do not have the time or resources to maintain a more intensive composting system. The process of cold composting is…

[queers4years]

every time it rains instead of snows in the winter I wanna kms ngl

[thatbadadvice]

Help! My Mother-In-Law Buys A New Outfit Every Time She Pours Jet Fuel on Chilean Sea Bass and Throws Their Carcasses, Flaming, Into the Rainforests from the Open Belly of Her Private Plane

Care and Feeding, Slate, 1 May 2023:

Dear Care and Feeding, My husband and I have two children (2 years and 6 months). We recently moved back to my husband’s hometown to pursue a career opportunity for me. My husband has been home with the kids but was just offered a job. We found a daycare, but it can only take the kids three days a week right now (we’re on waitlists for full-time, but it seems like it could be months or more before we find two full-time spots). My mother-in-law has generously offered to watch the kids for the other two days. Overall, she is a lovely, responsible woman, but we have some significant value differences around environmental issues and I’m not sure how to navigate them. Our household focuses heavily on environmental awareness. We drive electric cars, we compost, we limit our air conditioning, we limit our flying, we eat all leftovers, we avoid plastics whenever possible, and we buy exclusively secondhand clothing. My mother-in-law is a big fan of consumption. Her house is full of plastics. She throws away whatever is left on her plate at the end of a meal, she keeps her house so cold in the summer that I need a sweater and she drives a minivan. I’m concerned about the message it sends to the kids if we stick to our values, except when to do so would be inconvenient. How do I bridge our two very different lifestyles going forward? —Environmentalist Mama in Limbo

Dear Environmentalist Mama,

I'm not sure how you can describe a person who air-conditions her home and drives a minivan as "lovely" and "responsible" but I will assume that this planet-hating harpy has gripped you so tightly in her environmentally irresponsible talons that you cannot see the wildfire-ridden forest for the trees (which she is personally cutting down for fun and profit). Do not let yourself be hoodwinked by promises of familial love and generous offers of free child care, as if these things matter more than assiduously composting! This woman is a monster who is single-handedly destroying the only earth your precious babies have to live on. Imagine the tragedies that will unfold if your children experience a loving connection with a person who purchases items made of plastic? They could come to believe that other humans are whole people with their own interior lives and decision-making apparatuses and values instead of ugly nasty baddies who dare to oppose Mommy's One True And Only Way?

You simply cannot bridge two lifestyles as different as the two you describe here. On the one hand, we have your blameless and perfect eco-conscious little household of brave, Dumpster-diving Oliver Twists, and on the other hand, we have an ethically compromised, unscrupulous, indefensibly ignorant shitbird who probably barbecues her factory-farmed meats over asbestos tiles and flies to Australia to distribute the ashes over the Great Barrier Reef. If Planet Earth does not spin out into an apocalyptic ball of climate disaster by the time your children are old enough to be knifing their peers over tire fires for their share of rat rations, it will be because your uniquely virtuous family had the moral fortitude to drive an electric car and limit your flying. After all, electricity comes from magical climate-neutral fairies and the jet fuel industry is waiting with bated breath for the day that you ground your family and send an international behemoth into wholesale free-fall.

If there is one guaranteed way forward through the climate crisis, it is to silo ourselves into individual categories of "good people" who use paper straws (like you! you are so good!) and "amoral reprobates" (such as your mother-in-law, who sucks!) who do not. The very future of humanity depends on demonizing and shaming other people until they behave as we want them to, privileging individual actions over collective resistance to and accountability for the worst global offenders, and rejecting community-building opportunities in favor of being the only best good person ever.

Build no bridge with this woman! She would probably just drive over it with her minivan, and then the blood of billions will be on your hands.

[mariacallous]

So-called zombie fires in the peatlands of Alaska, Canada, and Siberia disappear from the Earth’s surface and smolder underground during the winter before coming back to life the following spring. These fires puzzle scientists because they appear in early May, way ahead of the usual fire season in the far north, and can reignite for a number of years.

Most scientists believe that zombie fires are the remnants of fires on the surface, but we have identified an alternative cause. Our research suggests that rapid atmospheric warming aboveground can cause peat soils to suddenly heat up to smoldering temperatures underground, all without any spark or other ignition. These zombie fires may be a case of climate-change-driven spontaneous combustion.

Reports of such fires date back to the 1940s, when they were rare events. However, the frequency and intensity of these fires have increased significantly in the past two decades, hand in hand with accelerated warming in the Arctic, the fastest-warming region on the planet.

At the start of 2024, more than 100 zombie fires were active in the Canadian province of British Columbia. Zombie fires have even been recorded near the coldest village on Earth, Oymyakon in north eastern Siberia, where they carried over through multiple winters and account for around 3.5 percent of area burned in the wider region each year.

Red areas are warming fastest, while black and gray areas show carbon-rich peat soils. There is significant overlap between the two, such as in Cherskii in northern Siberia. Map: O’Sullivan et al./Royal Society A; data from Berkeley Earth/PEATMAP

More carbon is trapped in temperature-sensitive Arctic peat soils than is found in the entire atmosphere, and these fires are releasing gigatons of it into the atmosphere. We wanted to know if sudden warming might be directly responsible.

Two Remarkable Results

We developed a mathematical model to explore different what-if scenarios, including how the temperature and carbon content of peat soils respond to changes in the weather and climate. Crucially, our model captures how certain microbes generate heat while breaking down soil and releasing its carbon into the atmosphere.

We obtained two remarkable results:

The first is that those microbes can generate so much heat that underground peat can smolder at around 80 degrees Celsius (176° F) over the winter, ready to ignite in spring. And this can happen without there ever having been a fire in that spot aboveground and without the weather aboveground reaching the sorts of temperatures that would normally be needed for soil to burn.

We call this new state the hot metastable state of peat soils. In this context, “metastable” means a long burn—the hot state lasts for a long but finite time, up to 10 years, until the peat burns out.

Our other key finding is that a sudden transition from the regular cold state to the hot metastable state can be triggered by realistic climate patterns alone, including summer heat waves and global warming scenarios. Most interestingly, the increase in the atmospheric temperature has to be faster than some critical rate to trigger the transition. If the atmospheric temperature increases by the same amount but at a slower rate, bioactive peat soil remains in the regular cold state and never transitions to the hot metastable state.

We still do not have proof of this happening in the real world, and it hasn’t been demonstrated in a lab—for now, this is a phenomenon seen only in our models. But we do know that compost (very similar to peat) can catch fire in the same way. For instance a large fire on the outskirts of London during a heatwave in 2022 was probably caused by a pile of compost spontaneously combusting.

All this suggests that atmospheric temperature is not actually the key critical factor for zombie fires. Rather, it is the rate of atmospheric warming that triggers long burns of underground peat. Put simply, it is not the heat, it is the rate.

How to Fight the Zombies

As the climate warms, the weather is becoming more extreme, and these are precisely the conditions that can lead to more and more zombie fires. This is concerning, as it could kick off a vicious cycle: The gigatons of carbon released from ancient peat soils into the atmosphere are likely to make the climatic changes even worse, which means more fires, so more extreme weather, and so on.

Indeed, zombie fires are an example of a rate-induced tipping point, where a system fails to adapt to too-fast changes in external conditions and transitions from its regular state to a different, often undesired state. It is possible that the contemporary climate is approaching—or has already exceeded—dangerous rates of change for certain natural system, such as bioactive peat soils, which could explain the recent increase in zombie fires.

It appears that the only solution to prevent further zombie fires is to limit climate variability. While policymakers focus on dangerous levels of atmospheric temperature (the heat), climate variability (the rate of change) could be equally or even more relevant to our resilience in the short term.

[bsenvs3000w25]

Blog #5- Understanding and Addressing Climate Change

Hi everyone,

Welcome to my week 5 blog post!

This week, I will explore the significant impacts of climate change on our planet and its effects on ecosystems, biodiversity, and the future of life on Earth.

What is climate change?

Climate change refers to long-term shifts in temperatures and weather patterns. These changes can be natural, such as those caused by volcanic eruptions or they can be human-driven, primarily due to burning fossil fuels. According to the United Nations, since the 1800s, human activity has been the main driver behind the effects of climate change. You may wonder why burning fossil fuels has such a significant impact on our Earth. Burning fossil fuels generates greenhouse gas emissions, which trap the sun's heat and lead to rising global temperatures. Carbon dioxide is the most abundant greenhouse gas emitted by human activity. Sources of these emissions include energy production (such as burning oil, coal, and gas), agriculture, and transportation.

Fun Fact: Did you know that CO2 emissions are the highest they have ever been in the past 2 million years, reaching 420 parts per million (ppm)?

Climate Change and Its Impact on the Earth

Climate change is an ongoing issue that affects our planet in numerous ways. The increased levels of greenhouse gases lead to more frequent and intense weather events, such as storms, floods, extreme heat, droughts, severe cold, and heavy snowfall. Additionally, we are witnessing the effects of ocean acidification as the oceans absorb more carbon dioxide from the atmosphere, resulting in a drop in pH and putting marine life at risk. You may have noticed these changes in your area. I remember when I was younger, we used to experience much more snow than we do now in the winter!

Climate Change's Impact on Wildlife

Climate change has a significant impact on wildlife threatening many species around the world. Rising temperatures alter vegetation and food sources, forcing animals to migrate beyond their native habitats in search of more suitable conditions. This increases the risk of extinction for many species. Additionally, the growing intensity of extreme weather events has led to significant habitat destruction and loss of life among wildlife populations.

One species that is severely affected by climate change is the polar bear. These animals depend on sea ice for mating, resting and hunting for seals, their primary food source. However, as arctic temperatures rise and ice continues to melt, polar bears must travel greater distances to find food, leading to malnutrition and low reproduction rates. 

Scientists predict that by 2050, two-thirds of the world's polar bear population could disappear.

Graph of changes in arctic sea ice over time

What Can We Do to Help?

There are many ways to reduce your carbon footprint and protect our future and our planet's future:

- Use public transit - Carpool - Bike or walk for shorter trips - Recycle and compost - Choose sustainable brands - Planting trees - Use renewable energy

In some cases, it can be difficult to reduce our carbon footprint. Some people may be unable to make specific changes, so it's important to recognize that. For example, if you work far from home, you might need to drive your car to work every day. Switching to solar, wind, or hydropower can be costly and unrealistic for some families. However, small actions, such as recycling, composting, minimizing waste, and choosing more eco-friendly brands, can also be just as effective in reducing our carbon footprint.

Questions for further discussion:

What was the most interesting thing you learned from my post?

What actions would you take to mitigate climate change?

Thanks for reading!

Biona🦋🌸🐻‍❄️

References: Ayesha Tandon, R. P. (2022, December 8). Polar bears and climate change: What does the science say?. Carbon Brief. https://interactive.carbonbrief.org/polar-bears-climate-change-what-does-science-say/index.html 

United Nations. What is climate change?. United Nations. https://www.un.org/en/climatechange/what-is-climate-change 

Ocean acidification | National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. (2020, April 1). https://www.noaa.gov/education/resource-collections/ocean-coasts/ocean-acidification 

[cosmicangsts]

──── 𝐓𝐇𝐄 𝐌𝐔𝐒𝐄 𝐈𝐍 𝐅𝐈𝐕𝐄 𝐒𝐄𝐍𝐒𝐄𝐒.

𝐒𝐈𝐆𝐇𝐓 . his eyes tend to appear blue at a glance, but are actually hazel and change color depending on a mix of variables, including a planet's atmospheric makeup or simply his mood. blue is their predominant pigmentation on earth and planets with a similar composition to it!he's a very bright individual. one of the brightest incarnations of the doctor to date, actually! he seemed to start a bit of a trend, no? fair - skinned and haired ( speaking of his hair, he never lets it get too long, because tegan will start saying he was ' abandoned by the seventies ' and it generally hangs in his eyes and gets in the way . ) , and it's all set off by the cream coloring of his overcoat. the outfit underneath is in multiple layers, but the mainstays are a cricketeering sweater, striped trousers and a dress shirt worn with suspenders. he wears white trainers with bright red socks. he has two variants of his outfit ( for climate appropriate reasons, he claims one is more suited for the cold than the other . . . ) with subtle differences, and it's a fun game to see if you can spot them all!

oh, and of course ; CELERY. wears it for his praxis gas allergy, changes stalks regularly, and recycles the old ones into compost for his plants.

𝐒𝐌𝐄𝐋𝐋 . doesn't really use a specific type of cologne unless it's gifted to him, as he is not very conscious about these sorts of things. carries a slightly earthy scent on him after tending the TARDIS's garden. makes his own shampoo and soaps using ingredients found in the garden and foreign planets ( ?? ask him about it, i have no clue. ) due to his eco - conscientious nature, which tend to be odorless most of the time. carries a faint scent of warm vanilla due to the the candles that he tends to burn in his study while he reads and writes poetry, they are a favorite. he smells of the stars and cosmic dust. a pinch of cinnamon is thrown in there as well. despite his keen interest in botany and flora, smelling like flowers would not be his first choice, and overwhelming rose - like scents on others tend to give him quite a headache. stays away from strong scents in general, both on himself and others.

𝐓𝐀𝐒𝐓𝐄 . a trace of tea or coffee, as he's an avid drinker of both throughout the day . . . maybe with faint sugar, since he takes some sometimes. the doctor doesn't eat or snack much, nor does he chew gum or eat candies like his predecessor ( jelly baby, anyone? ) , so he doesn't really . . . have a unique taste. if you're not kissing him because you simply like him, it's truly nothing to write home about.

𝐒𝐎𝐔𝐍𝐃 . polite and gentlemanly in day - to day conversation. has a deep, relaxing voice one could fall asleep to, with how he tends to overexplain things . . . speaks with confidence and well - informed resolve, even when he's telling you he has no idea what's happening. exudes a somewhat hapless aura at these spacey times, similar to a fairly new lecturer with their doctorate degree. he speaks in an estuary accent. when speaking quickly, words ending in vowels tend to mesh together. the slightest bit prone to voice cracks when under pressure.

𝐅𝐄𝐄𝐋 . time lords appear human and have pretty much the same outward physical biological traits, with the exception of being a dual - hearted species and having a lower than average body temperature. his hair is soft and fluffy, and his hands are large and a bit rough, but not exactly calloused. carries starlight and memories of bygone eras in his very bloodstream, which means standing close to him brings about a very odd and specific type of feeling. he isn't usually a very touch - oriented person, but he is friend - shaped and gives good hugs as a result. his resistance to cold climates is pretty high due to his lowered internal temperature, and he'll quickly give up his coat and sweater to companions if they complain of chill.

tagged by : yoinked from @timedten , be bless tagging : @isbrilliant , @tenfoldrage , @curamorte , @riiese , @carbondated , @vitalphenomena , you , chicken nugget

[solarpunkpresentspodcast]

Hope, but not right away

This is more of a half-formed thought than a complete article, so bear with me, but I wanted to put it out there especially on this gloomsome spring day, where the sun is mostly hidden by clouds that will not resolve into anything so reliable as precipitation.

Spring is often a time of joy, full of bright pastels, celebrations of life, rebirth, renewal, the return of green things to our lives. I think part of the reason that we put the focus so much on these things is their singularity within a world that is more often full of mud, grey skies, and barren trees. The snow melts away to reveal a rotting corpse, as it were, for the first few weeks of spring, at least around here. Branches stab at the sky and are not so much full of potential as skeletal imagery.

The solarpunk lens of rumination on this would focus on the way that the rotting detritus of last fall is composting, pregnant with possibility, working to become the literal ground from which life will spring. But I worry that, in that focus, we too often skip over the dull feeling of drear that can come between the absence of snow and the advent of greenery.

Ugly feelings, to poach a phrase from theorist Sianne Ngai, are very valid and worth acknowledging. Especially when the world around me is ugly, I have some pretty ugly thoughts. I mourn the fact that the double-whammy of climate weirding and El Niño meant that we didn’t really get a winter at all in these parts. I resent the rawness of the wind, too cold when the sun isn’t shining, and still wet as hell and - it seems - tailored to produce the most amount of misery in the least amount of time. I am frustrated by the fact that every single one of my coats (ranging from heavy-duty winterwear to light rain jackets) are needed within the span of a week, and yet none of them are truly adequate for the weather conditions I walk through. I think dark thoughts about the humans of this city when I walk the trails and see the incredible amount of litter - plastic bags/bottles, old Timmies cups, cigarette butts, wrappers, and other detritus - on the sides of the path, now revealed by the melting of the snow.

These are all problems that I know will pass, or that at least my brain will skim over. Take climate weirding and El Niño for example - I can’t do anything about weather patterns, and I’m doing my best right now to tackle climate change and catastrophe given my situation; they’re not going to go away any time soon, and they are a reality that I can accept, like the shitty wind. Doesn’t mean I’m not going to change my behaviour or do something about them, but it’s not like I myself can just nip the problem in the bud. Given past experience, I know that temperatures will continue to climb, solving my multiple coats problems. The City has already emailed me and many others subscribed to its newsletter that it is time for an annual spring community clean-ups: and if one registers with a group, they will provide gloves, grabbers, and garbage bags for each person, along with a tips sheet about safety, especially with handling any sharps such as broken glass or discarded needles.

So I can pass pretty quickly on to feeling fairly okay about my immediate situation. As I’ve said before both here and on the podcast, I really do believe that solarpunk is about looking around at the detritus of the early twenty-first century, then choosing deliberately to roll up one’s sleeves and get to work making a better world using the materials at hand, despite all the slings and arrows of outrageous fortune. However, moving rapidly away from negative feelings does them a disservice, and more importantly, may be doing solarpunk a disservice. Let me explain.

This is because solarpunk’s investment in optimism and hope is explicitly not a dismissal of badness, but instead a deliberately positive affective orientation arising from negative conditions, and so I am of the firm belief that there is room in the solarpunk movement to acknowledge and sit with the terrible truths of our existence.

I confess to being extremely inspired and deeply affected by JD Harlock’s conversation with Christina in our second season, especially the bit where he baldly states that he has no hope that the conditions in Lebanon will improve, and yet he still calls himself a solarpunk and works towards a better future anyways. It reminds me of an article I came across while doing research for my masters - this time explicitly about hope within the environmental movement, and the first part of the title says it all: “Hope, But Not for Us”.* It is by scholar Gerry Canavan and it came out in 2014, years before the Jonathan Franzen article. The basic gist is that yeah, there’s plenty of hope for people and animals in the future, even if we ourselves are stuck in this time of the Anthropocene, so we cannot see or access that future place of hope, but we can contribute now to making conditions better for beings we will perhaps never meet.**

If solarpunks were solely interpreted as liberal individuals fantasizing about a better world that they themselves will get to enjoy, the skeptical charge that solarpunk is naively optimistic would be pretty accurate. In that estimation, there is no room for negativity, for accepting the world as it is, for allowing for people to feel kinda crappy sometimes, for acknowledging that serious mental health struggles with depression can’t be cured by just getting a plant or going outside for a walk on the regular, et cetera. There’s no room for the actual reality of being human. The solarpunk strawman (strawperson, really), has zero nuance or grounding in the actual lived experience of being human in 2024.

That is why I am such an ardent proponent of holding space for negative emotions: whether that’s through seeing a climate grief counsellor or chaplain, attending climate grief circles, simply talking to friends and loved ones about fears about the climate, creating art about it, venting in a Discord channel, et cetera. Note they’re all community actions. Solarpunk is a deliberate reaction to and disruption of the status quo in which we are mired: pretending that we’re not experiencing terrible things is not going to get us anywhere, literally and intellectually.

I confess I don’t actually know how to end this. Academic articles tend to build towards a triumphant or at least neat conclusion and I’d like to leave you with more than just a mess. Perhaps it’s appropriate, though, since emotions, especially the negative ones, are messy and complicated.

Don’t feel bad for feeling bad, I guess? It’s from that ground that radical solarpunk action is grown.

*The full title is “Hope, But Not for Us: Ecological Science Fiction and the End of the World in Margaret Atwood’s Oryx and Crake and The Year of the Flood” and given that my master’s major research was interpreting the MaddAddam trilogy through the lens of posthuman feminism, it was pretty much exactly up my alley. This also, sidenote to the footnote, was one of the articles instrumental in my feeling extremely alienated from my peers who weren’t also taking Masters courses in ecocriticism, because nobody around me / on the corners of the Internet that I frequented at that time seemed to be talking at all about climate breakdown, or even admitting that maybe global warming was a problem (except the environmental activists, of course). It was a weird, WEIRD time.

**I imagine that this is how society as a whole used to think about doing noble things like building housing and implementing social policies for the sake of future generations, which seems to have largely exited the concern of the majority political discussion these days around everything except perhaps climate change, since it forces people to think according to a scale of deep time. (I’m aware of the fact that most Indigenous groups on Turtle Island tend to have a tradition of thinking/principle about how actions taken now will reverberate seven generations into the future, but settler society isn’t exactly taking that cue up)

[jeanjauthor]

What can I do to show a country with an inspired time period of Western and southern European renaissance/Tudor times but without guns, gunpowder or corsets? I do have theatre coming and religion but nothing

A country with a time period inspired by Western & Southern European renaissance / Tudor... no buns, gunpowder, or corsets...

Architecture and furniture, for one. A lot of people know what the iconic Tudor style is like: beam-and-plaster. Big thick heavy timbers (some light, some dark) with plaster in between, the beams can be straight, curved, or angular. But they also have a lot of brick in some of those buildings, too, such as in Germany (not sure if that's far enough West for you, but it's pretty architecture).

You can look up furniture as well. Most of it will still be hard wooden (not quite sure when upholstry techniques were discovered), but it will definitely be decorated with cushions, a lot of carvings, and some curvature to the seats & backs have started to develop.

Walls will definitely be painted, and there might be tapestries. NOT just embroidered ones! Painted wall hangings became quite popular...and were considerably cheaper for modestly prosperous farmers & artisans to afford, plus they cut down on drafts in winter.

Glassware has started to join pottery as a thing more people can afford. Mirrors are becoming popular, too, especially silver-backed Venetian glass mirrors...though if this isn't set in our world, or at least in an alternate-history Earth, you'll want to come up with a name & a place for such luxury goods to come from.

Without gunpowder, etc, the bow & crossbow will still be the top tier ranged weaponry (not counting magic, etc) for personal combat, but they'll also probably have the arbalest & ballista. Catapults are not as good as Hollywood pretends they are; their max weight at launch isn't very much, maaaaaybe 40 pounds-ish? Trebuchets are where it's all at, those effers can hurl whole cows. (Not advocating the flinging of live livestock, but also flinging dead livestock is kind of a "biological weapon of terror" thing, so it's not all that nice, either.)

Roads are slowly getting better, but they'll still be rutted and awful when it rains. Mostly it'll be roads inside the towns that will be graded and cobbled, and even the villages will start getting some decent streets. Shoes will still be problematic, though: hobnails are for mud and grass and slippery terrain that the nails can dig into, but they will slip on the hard stones of settlement streets, so your townies will want non-nailed shoes that won't slip quite so much.

Oxen will still be in some of the fields, but horses will gradually be taking over the pulling of the plows. Same for pulling wagons. The advent of the iron horseshoe goes a long way toward helping them, but they'll have the same slipping issue on cobbled roads. Donkeys and mules are still very much a part of everyday work & transportation for small carts & itinerant worker's & trader's loads.

Harvest time will still have very significant cultural importance, because although farming will have had a few innovations to help things along (mostly in terms of crop rotation, compost & manuring the fields, etc), it's still going to be close to 90% of your population devoting their lives to growing & preserving the food that everyone needs to eat the rest of the year...and most foods will be seasonal, because there's only so much you can dehydrate, smoke, salt-pack, salt-brine, or fermentation-pickle.

But in colder climates (think the Alps & Pyrinees) where the mountains get freezing cold, you can have ice houses, packed with straw and carefully ventilated & drained, with plenty of sawdust.

Also, industry will start to use water-powered "engines" for doing things. Not just turning the mill wheel to grind grain into flour, but to pump the bellows for a blast furnace, to smelt iron. ...This does lead to other problems, however, and that is the deforestation of the area around a smelting foundry. So your people will either have to figure out how to do forestry management, or they will need to discover other burnables, such as coal deposits (which cause their own problems) or natural gas (which China had discovered & started using well over a thousand years ago, piped via bamboo sealed with clay from the gas fields to the furnaces for pottery, etc).

...With all that said, one of the things you can do to look up inspiration is the BBC's Life on a Tudor Monastic Farm series. They did an outstanding job of re-creating daily life in England (which counts as Western Europe even if it's not Southern Europe) in the Tudor time period. You even get to see them going to other locations, which means seeing what the buildings looked like, as well as showcasing daily life.

[bumblebeeappletree]

Millie plants up a shady corridor beside her house.

On the narrow strip between the fence and the northern side of Millie’s house is her Treasure Garden, with food plants, flowers and lots of other treasures. But along the southern side of the building, it’s a different story; it’s cold and dark most of the year, with a blast of sun in the middle of summer and lots of service connections that need to be kept clear.

But Millie plans to try some experimental plantings to fill these tough conditions, offer views from the bathroom, and create some habitat.

She’ll use some groundcovers, climbers and tall, thick shrubs. She will include some local species such as strappy dianella that might not be visible but will offer habitat for local fauna.

Another challenge is to incorporate some interesting containers, such as the top of a rotating ventilation pipe cover.

A base structure for climbing plants is a pair of old gates that Millie has already attached to the side timber fence. The fence has been painted a dark colour so that it shows off the plants well but also makes it appear more distant.

She creates a window-like shelf for more container plants by sanding and oiling four pieces of cypress timber that she screws into place against the fence.

The soil in the area is very compacted so Millie loosens it with a fork, adds some compost, and then positions the plants into place, checking the view from indoors.

Shrubs can be trained to suit narrow spaces and can be lower maintenance than climbers – Millie uses a tea plant, Camellia sinensis, and a cool-climate corea, Correa baeuerlenii.

The pathway is finished off with a layer of crushed brick.

Plants featured:

Black-anther Flax-lily - Dianella revoluta var. revoluta

Evergreen clematis - Clematis armandii

Purple apple-berry - Billardiera longiflora

Tea plant - Camellia sinensis

Chef’s Hat Correa - Correa baeuerlenii

Necklace fern - Asplenium flabellifolium

[butts-bouncing-on-the-beltway]

I don't know if you've ever mentioned what hardiness zone you live in, but if you have any good zone specific resources you'd like to share, re. the planned food forest that would be super cool

Ooh! So you may not have known this when you brought it up, but this is an interesting and challenging phenomena I've been working within!

Climate change is causing USDA hardiness zones to evolve with time in really interesting and unique ways. So while the zoning at present in the region I'm planning for is in the 6's (6a or 6b depending on elevation and location), there are also zones of 7 and even 8 spreading across the region and we're having to plan our food forest to evolve with that spread.

So essentially, I have been working with a hardiness RANGE rather than a SPECIFIC hardiness zone, seeking out plants that demonstrate dofferent qualities at different zones and will still allow the forest to function symbiotically if climate change impacts our zoning unpredictably. This has been interesting work! Some trees are more like shrubs in colder climates and then become giants in warmer zones, allowing them to take the place of overstory trees that may begin to struggle or even die out with a warmer zoning. Other plants may be more likely to grow wild and out of control in warmer zoning and therefore should be monitored closely as indicators of zoning shifts, as well as utilized more heavily or even culled as a transition occurs.

Most of this information has been accessible to me through my regional service extension site, which has a truly GLORIOUS amount of knowledge collected about native and introduced flora and fauna, as well as their growing conditions and adaptive environmental information:

https://www.ces.ncsu.edu/

However, I do also often lean on the old farmer's almanac as a classic and time-tested source of agricultural knowledge:

The big thing to know about hardiness zones is that they impact HOW you grow things a lot more than WHAT you grow. Certain things will be native or a thriving introduced species, and hardiness zones can abasolutely contribute to that, but many domesticated plant species will and can happily grow anywhere with the right circumstances. A food forest is all about navigating that balance. What is meant to grow here? What can comfortably coexist here? What can meet a need or contribute to forest interdependency here? If you are answering those questions, your forest can thrive, even with plants ostensibly not within your hardiness zone. You may have a lessened harvest or a slower growing plant, but that's not necessarily a bad thing here. Food forests operate on the scale of decades or even centuries, not single year harvests. A single crop with a low yield isn't a problem if it fills other roles within your ecosystem.

An example of this: we plan to grow largely hard necked garlic. It's cold hardy in a way that soft neck often isn't, stores well, is native and has varieties native to the region, allows us to also grow cut and come again scapes, and will remain viable even if the climate warms, despite being slower to produce. And because garlic, an allium that is largely safe for livestock to consume, fills several roles in food forestry (it's rhizomatic - being a root vegetable - and helps aerate the soil, it repels unwanted pests from nearby crops, and it can be a good nutritional compost in the soil for other plants if left to decomes rather than harvested) it can be widely cultivated in the forest at rates that allow a sizeable harvest for us while still leaving plenty to the forest itself, even in the event of a zoning shift.

Most of the biomes and guilds within my food forest contain alliums, specifically native hard neck garlic and cold hardy leeks which, despite their similar flavor to onions, lack the toxicity to most animals and livestock that onions typically have. It's essentially the base components of my rhizomatic layer of food forestry, in much the same way that violets and marigolds are the base components of many of my ground cover layers for guilds.

Often what ends up being far more influential of "what plant goes where" is things like soil composition. For example, I've been fleshing out my Juglone guild recently for the first issue of Rewilding and Other Matters of the Soul, and the defining characteristics of the guild are the following:

Hardiness Range 6-8 compatible

Moist soil with a high water table that only rarely dries out

Full shade plants or partial sun tolerant plants

Juglone resistant

It was REALLY impressive how drastically those 4 qualifiers narrowed down my list of available plants, especially when you're only willing to use natives, non-invasive introduced varieties, or local domestic heirloom cultivars. I managed just over 30 varieties of plants for a guild. Which sounds like a lot until you realize that forests have probably several thousand species of plants per km, and we're trying to replicate that biodiversity with only 30 cultivars.

But it's a starting place, right?

You start a guild with 30 cultivars, and then little by little you see what else grows there, what else creeps in and makes a home, what else volunteers itself to grow in your little mini tract of forest, and suddenly it's not 30 but 50, not 50 but 100, and little by little you turn an acre of barely grown trees into a lush forest of plants and undergrowth and life.

Hell, start a guild with half a dozen cultivars, one each for each layer of the forest, and do the same thing, and little by little watch it grow and creep and expand until it takes back the land.

The Juglone Guild is in its final form for now (at least the final form it will take for release in the zine!) but I still have some work to do detailing uses for the plants, their role in the forest, and some philosophy around rewilding and why we do it in the first place. I have notions about connecting rewilding of the land and rewilding of the mind that have been floating around in my head since some recent conversations around prison abolition with a comrade, so I may see how to slide those in as well over time.

All this to say, getting to know your hardiness zone is mostly about getting to know the land you'll be collaborating with to cultivate growth and biodiversity. And as frustrating as I and everyone else may find it, one doesn't do that through a webbed site. One can learn how though! One can learn all about soil composition, nutritional needs and biochemistry of plants, the differency between well drained versus poorly draining soil, the difference between sandy soil, loam, and clay, the difference between a nitrogen fixing plant and a a plant that reacts to excess phosphorus in the soil, how long compost takes to decompose and the difference between hot and cold decomposing matter, all this stuff. And if you learn about it in advance, then when your crouched down in the dirt like a gremlin, digging around to look for good places to plant trees, drop a well or divert a stream, build a barn or house, put your moist plants versus your dry plants, it'll feel like second nature to dig down, find ash and know that this place will feed your babies, or watch a mud puddle live somewhere for 8 months of the year and decide to build a forest designed to re-aerate the soil and enjoy the high water table underneath. Getting to know the land starts with getting know what land is, and that's something a lot of us haven't grown up being taught.

[sayani78544544]

How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Petunias

Choose a location: Petunias love sunlight. Therefore, find a spot in your garden or pot that receives minimum of six hours of sunlight.

Kisan App

Prepare the soil: Petunias prefer well-drained soil. If the soil quality is deficient or drainage is poor, add compost to improve. Sowing/planting: About 10-12 weeks before the last expected frost, you can grow petunias from seed indoors. Alternatively, you could visit a nursery or garden center and purchase young petunias that you could transplant into your garden or container. Planting: If you are planting seeds, drop them on the surface of the soil and lightly push them down. Make a transplant hole a little larger than the rootball and set the plant in, covering its roots with the soil. Plant them close together, at least 12 inches apart in order.

Kisan App

Watering: Do not allow excessive drainage or soil become waterlogged. Water from the bottom of the plant so the leaves don’t get wet, as the presence of fungus may arise.

Fertilizing: Balanced water-soluble formula or slow-release granular fertilizer for flowers. Read and strictly follow the directions given in the fertilizer package before applying. Deadheading: Cut off dead or wilting flowers regularly. It also makes the plant flower more and stops it from seeding before its time. Pest and Disease Management: Be on the lookout for pests like aphids, slugs and snails. Treat any pest problems immediately. Do not overhead water to prevent fungal diseases. Mulching (optional): Spread a layer of mulch around the plant in order to trap moisture, weed control, and soil temperature control. Winter Care: Petunias are usually treated as annuals in cold climates, which die after frost. However, in hotter areas they can survive the winter. Cut them back and mulch them for protection during the winter.

Following these steps should help you successfully grow petunia flowers and enjoy their vibrant colors throughout the growing season.

[forenerblog]

Unlock the Health Benefits of Acerola Cherries: A Complete Growing and Care Guide

If you’re looking for a nutrient-packed superfruit that you can grow in your backyard or even on your balcony, the acerola cherry tree is an excellent choice. These vibrant red cherries aren’t just delicious; they’re also one of the richest natural sources of vitamin C! But how do you grow them successfully?

1. Why Grow an Acerola Cherry Tree?

Imagine having a tree in your backyard that gives you fresh, vitamin-rich cherries multiple times a year. That’s exactly what you get with an acerola cherry tree!

✅ Fast-growing: Produces fruit within 1-2 years of planting. ✅ Multiple harvests: Unlike most fruit trees, acerola cherries can bear fruit several times a year. ✅ Space-friendly: Grows well in both gardens and containers, making it perfect for small spaces. ✅ Low maintenance: Requires minimal care once established.

If you want a fruit tree that rewards you quickly, acerola is an excellent pick!

2. Nutritional and Health Benefits of Acerola Cherries

Acerola cherries aren’t just delicious—they’re a nutritional powerhouse!

🌟 Rich in Vitamin C – Contains 50-100 times more vitamin C than an orange! 🌟 Boosts Immunity – Helps fight colds, flu, and infections. 🌟 Improves Skin Health – Promotes collagen production, keeping skin youthful. 🌟 Supports Heart Health – Packed with antioxidants that reduce inflammation. 🌟 Enhances Digestion – A great source of dietary fiber.

Adding acerola cherries to your diet is like giving your body a daily health boost!

3. Choosing the Right Variety for Your Climate

Not all acerola cherry trees are the same. Here’s how to choose the best one for your region:

🌱 Dwarf Varieties – Perfect for container gardening and small spaces. 🌳 Standard Varieties – Better suited for outdoor gardens with more space. ❄️ Cold-Hardy Types – While acerola prefers warmth, some varieties can withstand cooler temperatures.

If you live in a cold climate, growing acerola in a container indoors might be the best option.

4. Ideal Growing Conditions: Sunlight, Soil, and Temperature

To thrive, your acerola cherry tree needs the right environment:

☀️ Sunlight: Requires at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily. 🌱 Soil: Prefers well-draining, slightly acidic to neutral soil (pH 6.5-7.5). 🌡️ Temperature: Grows best in USDA zones 9-11, but can survive indoors in colder regions.

Think of your acerola tree like a sun-loving traveler—the more warmth and light, the happier it will be!

5. How to Plant an Acerola Cherry Tree (Step-by-Step Guide)

Whether you’re planting in a garden or a container, follow these steps:

Pick the right spot – Choose an area with full sunlight.

Prepare the soil – Mix compost into the soil for nutrients.

Dig a hole – Twice as wide and deep as the root ball.

Plant the tree – Keep the root ball at ground level.

Water thoroughly – But avoid waterlogging.

Mulch around the base – Helps retain moisture and keep weeds away.

For container planting, use a large pot (15-20 gallons) with drainage holes.

6. Watering and Feeding: The Key to a Healthy Tree

💧 Watering:

Young trees: Water 2-3 times a week.

Mature trees: Water once a week, more in dry seasons.

🌿 Fertilizing:

Use a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) every 2 months.

Add organic compost for extra nutrients.

Think of watering and feeding your tree like giving it a balanced diet—too little or too much can cause problems.

7. Pruning and Maintenance Tips for Maximum Yield

✂️ Why prune? Keeps the tree healthy, strong, and productive.

✔ Remove dead or weak branches. ✔ Trim crowded areas to improve airflow. ✔ Shape the tree for easier harvesting.

The best time to prune is after the main harvest season.

8. Common Pests and Diseases (And How to Prevent Them)

🐛 Pests to watch for:

Aphids & Whiteflies – Spray with neem oil.

Scale Insects – Wipe leaves with soapy water.

🍃 Diseases:

Leaf Spot Disease – Prevent by keeping leaves dry.

Root Rot – Avoid overwatering!

Regular inspections keep your tree pest-free.

9. Harvesting: When and How to Pick Acerola Cherries

🍒 When to harvest?

Fruits turn deep red and slightly soft when ripe.

Pick cherries daily as they ripen fast.

Gently twist them off—don’t pull too hard, or you’ll damage the branches.

10. Best Ways to Store and Use Acerola Cherries

Since acerola cherries spoil quickly, here’s how to store them:

❄️ Refrigerate: Lasts 2-3 days in a breathable container. 🧊 Freeze: Wash, dry, and freeze for smoothies or baking. 🍹 Make Juice: Perfect for a vitamin C boost!

11. Troubleshooting Common Growing Problems

🔸 No fruit? Check if your tree gets enough sunlight and pollination. 🔸 Yellow leaves? Likely due to overwatering or nutrient deficiency. 🔸 Slow growth? Improve soil quality and fertilization.

With patience and proper care, your tree will reward you with delicious fruit!

12. Final Thoughts and Expert Tips

Growing an acerola cherry tree is rewarding, whether you have a large garden or just a small balcony.

🌞 Give it plenty of sunlight. 💧 Water moderately—avoid soggy soil. 🌱 Use organic fertilizers for best results. ✂️ Prune to keep the tree healthy.

[allthatgrows1]

A Complete Guide to Flower Bulbs: Growing Beauty in Your Garden

A well-maintained garden filled with vibrant blooms is a dream for many plant lovers. One of the simplest and most effective ways to achieve a stunning floral display is by planting flower bulbs. These nature-packed powerhouses store all the nutrients needed to produce breathtaking flowers year after year. Whether you're a gardening novice or a seasoned expert, understanding how to choose, plant, and care for flower bulbs can elevate your gardening experience.

What Are Flower Bulbs?

A flower bulb is an underground storage organ that contains a plant’s entire life cycle in a compact form. These bulbs store essential nutrients that help the plant survive dormancy and bloom when the conditions are right. Some popular examples of flowering bulbs include tulips, lilies, daffodils, hyacinths, and alliums.

Types of Flower Bulbs

1. Spring-Flowering Bulbs

These bulbs, such as tulips and daffodils, are typically planted in autumn and bloom in the spring. They require a period of cold dormancy to develop strong roots and vibrant flowers.

2. Summer-Flowering Bulbs

Lilies, gladiolus, and dahlias are examples of summer-flowering bulbs that are usually planted in spring after the frost has passed. These bulbs thrive in warm conditions and produce striking blooms during summer.

3. Autumn-Flowering Bulbs

Some bulbs, like colchicums and nerines, bloom in autumn. These lesser-known but equally beautiful bulbs provide a splash of color when most other plants are fading.

How to Plant Flower Bulbs

Planting flower bulbs correctly is crucial for ensuring a successful bloom. Follow these simple steps to maximize growth and flowering potential:

1. Choose the Right Location

Most flower bulbs require well-drained soil and adequate sunlight. Choose a spot that gets at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day for optimal results.

2. Prepare the Soil

Loosen the soil to improve aeration and drainage. Mixing compost or organic matter into the soil can enhance fertility and encourage root growth.

3. Plant at the Right Depth

As a general rule, bulbs should be planted at a depth of two to three times their height. For instance, if a bulb is 2 inches tall, plant it 4–6 inches deep.

4. Watering and Mulching

After planting, water the bulbs thoroughly to help establish roots. Applying a layer of mulch can protect bulbs from extreme temperatures and retain soil moisture.

Caring for Flower Bulbs

Regular Watering: While bulbs don’t require excessive watering, ensure they receive enough moisture during their growing phase.

Fertilization: Use a balanced fertilizer to provide essential nutrients, especially for perennial bulbs that bloom year after year.

Deadheading: Remove spent flowers to encourage healthier growth and prevent seed formation, which can drain the bulb’s energy.

Storage: If growing tender bulbs like dahlias or gladiolus in colder regions, dig them up after blooming and store them in a cool, dry place until the next planting season.

Why Choose Flower Bulbs for Your Garden?

Low Maintenance: Once planted, bulbs require minimal care and can bloom season after season.

Wide Variety: Available in different shapes, colors, and sizes, they can be used to create stunning landscapes.

Pollinator-Friendly: Many flower bulbs attract bees and butterflies, supporting local biodiversity.

Buy the Best Flower Bulbs Online

For high-quality flower bulbs, visit AllThatGrows. We offer a wide selection of premium bulbs suited for different climates and gardening needs. Enhance your garden’s beauty with our expertly curated collection of flowering bulbs today!

By selecting and planting the right flower bulbs, you can enjoy a garden that bursts with color and fragrance throughout the year. Happy gardening!

[tameblog]

Succulents are drought-tolerant plants beloved for their ability to thrive in tough conditions. They store moisture in their leaves, stems, and roots, allowing them to survive for prolonged periods without being watered. When given ample sunlight these plants will thrive outside in your garden or indoors in containers. One downside of succulents, however, is that they can be slow growers. If you want to experience their beauty in your landscape or on your windowsill now, we're here to help. We spoke to gardening experts who shared their favorite fast-growing succulents. Echeveria Perle von Nurnburg Getty Images A beautiful subtropical succulent, Echeveria Perle von Nurnberg (Echeveria 'Perle von Nurnberg') features purple-tinted leaves and a rosette-like form, says Justin Hancock, horticulturist for Costa Farms. It looks incredible as a houseplant displayed on a sunny windowsill. "Given good light, it’s a relatively quick grower," says Hancock. Water once the pot starts to dry out. Zones: 9 to 11Size: 1 to 12 inches tall x 2 to 12 inches wideCare requirements: Full sun; well-drained soil Agave An agave is displayed at Euroflora 2011 International Flower Fair held at Fiera di Genova on April 22, 2011 in Genoa, Italy. Stefania D'Alessandro / Getty Images News / Getty Images Agave plants (Agave spp.) thrive in harsh conditions. "Most grow in climates that are dry, rocky, and warm," says Adrienne Roethling, plant expert and former garden director for Paul J. Ciener Botanical Garden. "In their native habitat, they grow wild in higher mountainous regions where night temperatures fall below freezing." These plants don't like wet, cold winters, so be mindful if growing in an area that experiences prolonged cold periods. Zones: 7 to 10; 6 for hardier speciesSize: 1 to 10 feet tall x 1 to 15 feet wideCare requirements: Full sun; average to compost-rich, well-drained soil Florist Kalanchoe Getty Images Kalanchoe (Kalanchoe spp.) is a genus of tropical succulents that are known for being easy to grow and tough as nails. One popular, fast-growing variety is florist kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana). "It’s a tropical plant with clear green leaves and tight clusters of colorful flowers," says Roethling. "The flowers stand well above the leaves and come in colors of red, yellow, orange, and pink." They make a terrific container plant, blooming from winter to spring. Zones: 10 or higherSize: 6 to 12 inches tall x 6 to 18 inches wideCare requirements: Full sun; average, well-drained soil Sedum Malorny/Getty Images Sedum (Hylotelephium ssp), also known as stonecrop, is a genus of flowering succulents that grow well in a variety of conditions. Hardy varieties will survive below-freezing temperatures during their dormant state, says Roethling. Zones: 3 to 9Size: 3 inches tall x 5 feet wide, depending on the speciesCare requirements: Full sun; average to compost-rich, dry soil Sedum 'Angelina' Getty Images A popular sedum variety, 'Angelina' is a wonderful ground cover that offers multiple seasons of beauty, says Roethling. "Plants are evergreen further south and in winter, expect them to take on a nice burnt orange hue," she says. "Flowers are star-shaped and bloom in spring; however, they are masked by the gold leaves." Zones: 5 to 9Size: 4 to 6 inches tall x 12 to 24 inches wideCare requirements: Full sun; average to compost-rich, dry soil Panda Plant Getty Images As adorable as it sounds, the panda plant (Kalanchoe tomentosa) has fuzzy gray-green leaves with black-brown spots. "This subtropical succulent can grow relatively quickly given the right environment, making it an enjoyable and rewarding plant," says Hancock. Give it plenty of light and water once the soil starts to dry out. Zones: 9 to 11Size: 1 to 36 inches tall x 24 to 36 inches wideCare requirements: Full sun; well-drain soil Hens and Chicks Getty Images Another fast-growing succulent, hens and chicks (Sempervivum) have been around for centuries. The common name is an homage to the growth pattern—one big succulent (hen) produces many smaller succulents (chicks). "At first, the hen will grow to maturity while the chicks begin growing from the root mass," says Roethling. "They grow to become hens and the cycle continues." Zones: 4 to 8Size: 6 to 12 inches tall x 6 to 18 inches wideCare requirements: Full sun; average, well-drained soil Hardy Iceplant  shihina / Getty Images Hardy iceplant (Delosperma cooperi) is a wonderful plant for hot, dry, and sunny locations. It is a safe alternative to another iceplant that is very invasive, Carpobrotus edulis. Hardy iceplant is a low-maintenance plant and requires very little water once established, says Roethling. It's a low-growing ground cover that spreads up to 2 feet. It flowers from late spring through summer, adding seasons of color to your landscape. In warmer climates, it may remain evergreen through winter, says Roethling. Zones: 6 to 10Size: 3 to 6 inches tall x 1 to 2 feet wideCare requirements: Full sun; average, well-drained soil Mother of Millions Getty Images Mother of millions (Kalanchoe delagoensis) gets a lot of attention in the plant community because it's a prolific performer and has a unique appearance. "Grey stems produce narrow grey leaves. Each leaf is marked with dark purple horizontal streaks on the edge," says Roethling. "These streaks look like ribs and when they mature, produce a bud to begin a new plant." It can spread aggressively, so plant with caution or grow it in a container. Zones: 6 to 10Size: 1 to 48 inches tall x 1 to 12 inches wideCare requirements: Full sun; average, well-drained soil Flapjack Kalanchoe Getty Images Another fast-growing kalanchoe variety, flapjack kalanchoe (Kalanchoe thyrsiflora) boasts large, narrow leaves that are stacked like pancakes, hence the name. "Eventually, from the center of the leaf mass, a stalk will emerge and the leaves fan out all around," says Roethling. "The flowering stalk will reach 2 to 3 feet tall and produce white to yellow tubular flowers." Zones: 10 or higher Size: 12 to 30 inches tall x 6 to 8 inches wideCare requirements: Full sun; average, well-drained soil Source link

[ramestoryworld]

Succulents are drought-tolerant plants beloved for their ability to thrive in tough conditions. They store moisture in their leaves, stems, and roots, allowing them to survive for prolonged periods without being watered. When given ample sunlight these plants will thrive outside in your garden or indoors in containers. One downside of succulents, however, is that they can be slow growers. If you want to experience their beauty in your landscape or on your windowsill now, we're here to help. We spoke to gardening experts who shared their favorite fast-growing succulents. Echeveria Perle von Nurnburg Getty Images A beautiful subtropical succulent, Echeveria Perle von Nurnberg (Echeveria 'Perle von Nurnberg') features purple-tinted leaves and a rosette-like form, says Justin Hancock, horticulturist for Costa Farms. It looks incredible as a houseplant displayed on a sunny windowsill. "Given good light, it’s a relatively quick grower," says Hancock. Water once the pot starts to dry out. Zones: 9 to 11Size: 1 to 12 inches tall x 2 to 12 inches wideCare requirements: Full sun; well-drained soil Agave An agave is displayed at Euroflora 2011 International Flower Fair held at Fiera di Genova on April 22, 2011 in Genoa, Italy. Stefania D'Alessandro / Getty Images News / Getty Images Agave plants (Agave spp.) thrive in harsh conditions. "Most grow in climates that are dry, rocky, and warm," says Adrienne Roethling, plant expert and former garden director for Paul J. Ciener Botanical Garden. "In their native habitat, they grow wild in higher mountainous regions where night temperatures fall below freezing." These plants don't like wet, cold winters, so be mindful if growing in an area that experiences prolonged cold periods. Zones: 7 to 10; 6 for hardier speciesSize: 1 to 10 feet tall x 1 to 15 feet wideCare requirements: Full sun; average to compost-rich, well-drained soil Florist Kalanchoe Getty Images Kalanchoe (Kalanchoe spp.) is a genus of tropical succulents that are known for being easy to grow and tough as nails. One popular, fast-growing variety is florist kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana). "It’s a tropical plant with clear green leaves and tight clusters of colorful flowers," says Roethling. "The flowers stand well above the leaves and come in colors of red, yellow, orange, and pink." They make a terrific container plant, blooming from winter to spring. Zones: 10 or higherSize: 6 to 12 inches tall x 6 to 18 inches wideCare requirements: Full sun; average, well-drained soil Sedum Malorny/Getty Images Sedum (Hylotelephium ssp), also known as stonecrop, is a genus of flowering succulents that grow well in a variety of conditions. Hardy varieties will survive below-freezing temperatures during their dormant state, says Roethling. Zones: 3 to 9Size: 3 inches tall x 5 feet wide, depending on the speciesCare requirements: Full sun; average to compost-rich, dry soil Sedum 'Angelina' Getty Images A popular sedum variety, 'Angelina' is a wonderful ground cover that offers multiple seasons of beauty, says Roethling. "Plants are evergreen further south and in winter, expect them to take on a nice burnt orange hue," she says. "Flowers are star-shaped and bloom in spring; however, they are masked by the gold leaves." Zones: 5 to 9Size: 4 to 6 inches tall x 12 to 24 inches wideCare requirements: Full sun; average to compost-rich, dry soil Panda Plant Getty Images As adorable as it sounds, the panda plant (Kalanchoe tomentosa) has fuzzy gray-green leaves with black-brown spots. "This subtropical succulent can grow relatively quickly given the right environment, making it an enjoyable and rewarding plant," says Hancock. Give it plenty of light and water once the soil starts to dry out. Zones: 9 to 11Size: 1 to 36 inches tall x 24 to 36 inches wideCare requirements: Full sun; well-drain soil Hens and Chicks Getty Images Another fast-growing succulent, hens and chicks (Sempervivum) have been around for centuries. The common name is an homage to the growth pattern—one big succulent (hen) produces many smaller succulents (chicks). "At first, the hen will grow to maturity while the chicks begin growing from the root mass," says Roethling. "They grow to become hens and the cycle continues." Zones: 4 to 8Size: 6 to 12 inches tall x 6 to 18 inches wideCare requirements: Full sun; average, well-drained soil Hardy Iceplant  shihina / Getty Images Hardy iceplant (Delosperma cooperi) is a wonderful plant for hot, dry, and sunny locations. It is a safe alternative to another iceplant that is very invasive, Carpobrotus edulis. Hardy iceplant is a low-maintenance plant and requires very little water once established, says Roethling. It's a low-growing ground cover that spreads up to 2 feet. It flowers from late spring through summer, adding seasons of color to your landscape. In warmer climates, it may remain evergreen through winter, says Roethling. Zones: 6 to 10Size: 3 to 6 inches tall x 1 to 2 feet wideCare requirements: Full sun; average, well-drained soil Mother of Millions Getty Images Mother of millions (Kalanchoe delagoensis) gets a lot of attention in the plant community because it's a prolific performer and has a unique appearance. "Grey stems produce narrow grey leaves. Each leaf is marked with dark purple horizontal streaks on the edge," says Roethling. "These streaks look like ribs and when they mature, produce a bud to begin a new plant." It can spread aggressively, so plant with caution or grow it in a container. Zones: 6 to 10Size: 1 to 48 inches tall x 1 to 12 inches wideCare requirements: Full sun; average, well-drained soil Flapjack Kalanchoe Getty Images Another fast-growing kalanchoe variety, flapjack kalanchoe (Kalanchoe thyrsiflora) boasts large, narrow leaves that are stacked like pancakes, hence the name. "Eventually, from the center of the leaf mass, a stalk will emerge and the leaves fan out all around," says Roethling. "The flowering stalk will reach 2 to 3 feet tall and produce white to yellow tubular flowers." Zones: 10 or higher Size: 12 to 30 inches tall x 6 to 8 inches wideCare requirements: Full sun; average, well-drained soil Source link

[alexha2210]

Succulents are drought-tolerant plants beloved for their ability to thrive in tough conditions. They store moisture in their leaves, stems, and roots, allowing them to survive for prolonged periods without being watered. When given ample sunlight these plants will thrive outside in your garden or indoors in containers. One downside of succulents, however, is that they can be slow growers. If you want to experience their beauty in your landscape or on your windowsill now, we're here to help. We spoke to gardening experts who shared their favorite fast-growing succulents. Echeveria Perle von Nurnburg Getty Images A beautiful subtropical succulent, Echeveria Perle von Nurnberg (Echeveria 'Perle von Nurnberg') features purple-tinted leaves and a rosette-like form, says Justin Hancock, horticulturist for Costa Farms. It looks incredible as a houseplant displayed on a sunny windowsill. "Given good light, it’s a relatively quick grower," says Hancock. Water once the pot starts to dry out. Zones: 9 to 11Size: 1 to 12 inches tall x 2 to 12 inches wideCare requirements: Full sun; well-drained soil Agave An agave is displayed at Euroflora 2011 International Flower Fair held at Fiera di Genova on April 22, 2011 in Genoa, Italy. Stefania D'Alessandro / Getty Images News / Getty Images Agave plants (Agave spp.) thrive in harsh conditions. "Most grow in climates that are dry, rocky, and warm," says Adrienne Roethling, plant expert and former garden director for Paul J. Ciener Botanical Garden. "In their native habitat, they grow wild in higher mountainous regions where night temperatures fall below freezing." These plants don't like wet, cold winters, so be mindful if growing in an area that experiences prolonged cold periods. Zones: 7 to 10; 6 for hardier speciesSize: 1 to 10 feet tall x 1 to 15 feet wideCare requirements: Full sun; average to compost-rich, well-drained soil Florist Kalanchoe Getty Images Kalanchoe (Kalanchoe spp.) is a genus of tropical succulents that are known for being easy to grow and tough as nails. One popular, fast-growing variety is florist kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana). "It’s a tropical plant with clear green leaves and tight clusters of colorful flowers," says Roethling. "The flowers stand well above the leaves and come in colors of red, yellow, orange, and pink." They make a terrific container plant, blooming from winter to spring. Zones: 10 or higherSize: 6 to 12 inches tall x 6 to 18 inches wideCare requirements: Full sun; average, well-drained soil Sedum Malorny/Getty Images Sedum (Hylotelephium ssp), also known as stonecrop, is a genus of flowering succulents that grow well in a variety of conditions. Hardy varieties will survive below-freezing temperatures during their dormant state, says Roethling. Zones: 3 to 9Size: 3 inches tall x 5 feet wide, depending on the speciesCare requirements: Full sun; average to compost-rich, dry soil Sedum 'Angelina' Getty Images A popular sedum variety, 'Angelina' is a wonderful ground cover that offers multiple seasons of beauty, says Roethling. "Plants are evergreen further south and in winter, expect them to take on a nice burnt orange hue," she says. "Flowers are star-shaped and bloom in spring; however, they are masked by the gold leaves." Zones: 5 to 9Size: 4 to 6 inches tall x 12 to 24 inches wideCare requirements: Full sun; average to compost-rich, dry soil Panda Plant Getty Images As adorable as it sounds, the panda plant (Kalanchoe tomentosa) has fuzzy gray-green leaves with black-brown spots. "This subtropical succulent can grow relatively quickly given the right environment, making it an enjoyable and rewarding plant," says Hancock. Give it plenty of light and water once the soil starts to dry out. Zones: 9 to 11Size: 1 to 36 inches tall x 24 to 36 inches wideCare requirements: Full sun; well-drain soil Hens and Chicks Getty Images Another fast-growing succulent, hens and chicks (Sempervivum) have been around for centuries. The common name is an homage to the growth pattern—one big succulent (hen) produces many smaller succulents (chicks). "At first, the hen will grow to maturity while the chicks begin growing from the root mass," says Roethling. "They grow to become hens and the cycle continues." Zones: 4 to 8Size: 6 to 12 inches tall x 6 to 18 inches wideCare requirements: Full sun; average, well-drained soil Hardy Iceplant  shihina / Getty Images Hardy iceplant (Delosperma cooperi) is a wonderful plant for hot, dry, and sunny locations. It is a safe alternative to another iceplant that is very invasive, Carpobrotus edulis. Hardy iceplant is a low-maintenance plant and requires very little water once established, says Roethling. It's a low-growing ground cover that spreads up to 2 feet. It flowers from late spring through summer, adding seasons of color to your landscape. In warmer climates, it may remain evergreen through winter, says Roethling. Zones: 6 to 10Size: 3 to 6 inches tall x 1 to 2 feet wideCare requirements: Full sun; average, well-drained soil Mother of Millions Getty Images Mother of millions (Kalanchoe delagoensis) gets a lot of attention in the plant community because it's a prolific performer and has a unique appearance. "Grey stems produce narrow grey leaves. Each leaf is marked with dark purple horizontal streaks on the edge," says Roethling. "These streaks look like ribs and when they mature, produce a bud to begin a new plant." It can spread aggressively, so plant with caution or grow it in a container. Zones: 6 to 10Size: 1 to 48 inches tall x 1 to 12 inches wideCare requirements: Full sun; average, well-drained soil Flapjack Kalanchoe Getty Images Another fast-growing kalanchoe variety, flapjack kalanchoe (Kalanchoe thyrsiflora) boasts large, narrow leaves that are stacked like pancakes, hence the name. "Eventually, from the center of the leaf mass, a stalk will emerge and the leaves fan out all around," says Roethling. "The flowering stalk will reach 2 to 3 feet tall and produce white to yellow tubular flowers." Zones: 10 or higher Size: 12 to 30 inches tall x 6 to 8 inches wideCare requirements: Full sun; average, well-drained soil Source link