#composted pine bark fines

[james34111]

How Composted Pine Bark Fines Can Revolutionize Your Garden Beds

When it comes to creating the ideal garden, gardeners are always on the lookout for the next game-changing solution. One such under-the-radar secret is composted pine bark fines. These small, often-overlooked particles can transform your garden beds in ways you might not expect. In this article, we will dive into what pine bark fines are, how they work, and why they are becoming a favourite among green thumbs everywhere.

What Are Composted Pine Bark Fines:

Pine bark fines are the tiny particles of pine bark left over from tree processing. When these particles are composted, they break down into a rich, organic material that is excellent for gardening. Their small size allows them to mix effortlessly into soil, improving its texture and health. Pine bark fines are often used as a soil amendment in potting mixes, but their potential for garden beds is just as impressive.

The Benefits of Using Pine Bark Fines in Your Garden Beds:

So, why should you consider using composted pine bark fines? Let us take a closer look at the advantages they offer for your garden beds:

Improved Soil Structure: One of the biggest challenges gardeners’ faces is soil compaction, which can stifle root growth and prevent plants from thriving. Pine bark fines help loosen compacted soil, creating space for air and water to flow freely. This improved aeration allows plant roots to access the nutrients they need, leading to healthier growth.

Enhanced Water Retention: Water retention is critical for keeping plants hydrated, especially during hot summer months. Composted pine bark fines can hold moisture without waterlogging the soil, making them a perfect solution for balancing moisture levels. Their fine texture absorbs water and releases it slowly, ensuring your plants stay adequately watered for longer periods.

Boosted Organic Matter and Nutrient Supply:

Pine bark fines naturally contain organic matter, which enriches the soil as it decomposes. This addition of organic material improves the soil’s fertility and helps to support a healthy microbial ecosystem. Over time, your garden beds will become richer in nutrients, giving your plants everything they need to flourish.

How to Use Composted Pine Bark Fines in Your Garden:

Incorporating pine bark fines into your garden is a straightforward process.

Mixing with Soil: Mix composted pine bark fines with your garden soil to improve its texture and structure. Aim for a ratio of about 20-30% pine bark fines to soil for the best results. This will create a light, fluffy soil mix that encourages strong root development.

Mulching Garden Beds: You can also use pine bark fines as mulch around plants. Spread a thin layer over your garden beds to help retain moisture, suppress weeds, and add a decorative touch. As the fines break down, they will add organic material to the soil, providing long-term benefits.

Sustainability and Pine Bark Fines: Using composted pine bark fines is also an environmentally friendly choice. Since they are a byproduct of the timber industry, repurposing these fines reduces waste and promotes sustainable gardening practices. By choosing pine bark fines, you are making a positive impact on both your garden and the environment.

Conclusion:

Incorporating composted pine bark fines into your garden beds is a simple yet powerful way to enhance soil health, water retention, and overall plant growth. Whether you are an experienced gardener or just starting out, pine bark fines can provide the organic boost your garden needs to thrive. Give them a try, and watch your garden beds transform into a lush, productive haven for your favourite plants!

[bumblebeeappletree]

Josh shows us why eucalypt mallee trees in pots are perfect for the home garden.

Eucalypts have incredible diversity and are part of the fabric of Australia. Their distinctive silhouettes, the texture of their trunks, their striking flowers and that telltale scent of their leaves. Not all of them become towering giants like the Eucalyptus grandis, so if you do have ambitions to grow a eucalypt at home, there are plenty of smaller species well suited to a garden bed or even a pot!

Mallees:

These are eucalyptus that grow multiple trunks from a woody lignotuber at the base. Mallees tick a lot of boxes for home gardens as they are typically smaller than their single-trunk counterparts, and often range between 4 and 10 metres tall. They also respond well to pruning, so you can keep them compact.

Swamp Mallee | Eucalyptus spathulata:

The fine blue-grey leaves are the highlight of this tree, giving it a tight and frothy form at a distance. This tree is from the wheat belt region inland from Perth, and in season it produces tiny white flowers.

Fuchsia Mallee | Eucalyptus forrestiana:

It's the buds that are the draw card for this tree which comes from the Esperance region of WA. The buds are bright red and appear at the very end of the branches for maximum exposure, a bit like Christmas tree ornaments. These buds give way to bright yellow flowers.

Illyarrie | Eucalyptus erythrocorys:

This tree from the Jurien Bay to Shark Bay regions north of Perth is also a feast for the eyes. It has red buds and large yellow flowers which develop into big woody gumnuts. The strappy leaves and smooth bark are also standout features.

These three examples illustrate why selection will be your most difficult task. Each has its own charm and all of them would make the striking feature plant in a pot.

Mallee Pot:

Choose a plant that is big enough to make a bit of an impact but not too big that it’s difficult to handle. The pot needs to be big enough so the tree can grow in it for a couple of years and develop decent roots. It also needs to be big enough and heavy enough, so the tree won't topple over in the wind when it develops a canopy. Avoid pots that taper towards the top as this will make it impossible to pull the root ball out when you want to re-pot or plant out later. Decent drainage is a must, so make sure there are holes at the bottom.

The right potting mix is critical. A few years back, Josh had a young Eucalyptus rhodantha in a pot that died because the mix didn't have adequate drainage. A good mix for natives in pots is a blend of sand, coir and composted pine bark because it's porous so the roots won't rot. Add a bit of coarse mulch on top to help keep the roots cool and the look tidy. Water regularly during dry periods but make sure the water is able to drain freely.

Eucalypts prefer full sun, so find a good spot for it. You'll also need to repot it every few years, or better still, plant it out into the garden so it can reach its full potential. In the meantime, you'll be able to enjoy it just like this – your eucalypt in a pot!

[thehydroponiccity]

DIY Potting Soil Recipes for Thriving Plants

Introduction

Creating your own potting soil can be a rewarding and cost-effective way to provide your plants with the ideal growing medium. By customizing the soil mix, you can ensure that your plants receive the necessary nutrients, moisture retention, and proper drainage they need to thrive. In this article, we will explore several DIY potting soil recipes that you can easily make at home, using common ingredients. Whether you're an experienced gardener or just starting out, these recipes will help you create healthy and vibrant plants.

Basic All-Purpose Potting Soil

The first recipe is a versatile all-purpose potting soil that works well for a wide range of plants. To make this mix, you will need:

4 parts peat moss or coconut coir: Peat moss provides excellent moisture retention, while coconut coir is a sustainable alternative that also retains water effectively.

2 parts perlite: Perlite improves drainage and aeration, preventing soil compaction.

2 parts compost: Compost enriches the soil with organic matter, nutrients, and beneficial microorganisms.

1 part vermiculite: Vermiculite aids in water retention and promotes root development.

Optional: 1/4 cup of slow-release organic fertilizer per gallon of soil mix.

Combine all the ingredients thoroughly, ensuring an even distribution of materials. This basic potting soil recipe is suitable for a variety of plants, including flowers, herbs, and vegetables.

Succulent and Cacti Soil Mix

Succulents and cacti have specific soil requirements to prevent root rot and promote healthy growth. Here's a DIY soil mix for these desert-dwelling plants:

2 parts potting soil: Use a well-draining commercial potting soil mix as the base.

1 part perlite: Enhance the drainage properties of the mix by adding perlite.

1 part coarse sand: Add sand to further improve drainage and prevent excess moisture retention.

Mix the ingredients thoroughly, ensuring that the resulting mix is loose and well-draining. This succulent and cacti soil mix mimics the arid conditions these plants prefer, allowing their roots to breathe and preventing waterlogged soil.

Acid-Loving Plant Mix for Azaleas and Rhododendrons

Azaleas and rhododendrons thrive in acidic soil conditions. To create a suitable potting mix for these acid-loving plants, gather the following ingredients:

2 parts peat moss: Peat moss lowers soil pH and provides good moisture retention.

1 part perlite: Perlite improves aeration and drainage.

1 part pine bark fines: Pine bark fines help acidify the soil while adding organic matter.

1 part coarse sand: Coarse sand further enhances drainage.

Thoroughly combine the ingredients to create an acidic potting mix that mimics the plants' natural habitat. This mix will promote healthy root growth and vibrant blooms for your azaleas and rhododendrons.

Seed Starting Mix

Creating a light and fine-textured mix is crucial for successful seed starting. This DIY seed starting mix recipe provides optimal conditions for germination and early growth:

4 parts screened compost: Compost provides essential nutrients and beneficial microorganisms.

1 part vermiculite or perlite: Vermiculite or perlite improves aeration and water retention.

1 part coarse sand: Coarse sand enhances drainage and prevents compaction.

Optional: 1/4 cup of finely ground agricultural lime per gallon of soil mix to balance pH.

Combine the ingredients thoroughly, ensuring a uniform texture. This seed starting mix allows for easy root penetration and prevents damping-off disease, setting the stage for healthy seedlings.

Conclusion Creating your own potting soil allows you to tailor the soil composition to meet the specific needs of your plants. These DIY potting soil recipes provide a starting point for customizing your mixes based on the types of plants you're growing and their unique requirements. By using readily available ingredients and following these recipes, you can create a cost-effective, nutrient-rich, and well-draining potting soil that will provide a solid foundation for your plants' growth and vitality. Experiment, observe, and adjust as needed to discover the ideal potting soil mix that will lead to thriving plants in your garden or indoor spaces.

[faerieprairie]

basic composting guide for a beginner

composting is basically just using aerobic decomposition to break down ur kitchen scraps that would’ve ended up in a landfill. in the landfill, they’ll engage in anaerobic decomposition, which produces methane & contributes to climate change

even if u dont garden, u can still start a compost bin. it prevents the methane produced from the landfill & aids in the carbon cycle to cut down greenhouse gases even further

here’s a basic guide on how to start

research

obviously, i recommend doing ur own research first to figure out what works for u. u can skim this guide to get the gist of what u need to do, but do at least a lil research on composting so u know a bit more abt what ur doing & why ur doing it. this guide is mostly to get a good idea of it all so that ur not walking in blind

.

start w a container

the main thing to decide is if it’s going to be kept indoors or outdoors. if ur casual & dont expect a large yield, i would recommend a small indoor compost bin. if u want to use it for gardening and/or want a larger quantity, i would recommend an outdoor bin.

there are thousands of different ones u can diy. there are also thousands of different ones u can buy. it just depends on what fits ur lifestyle best. u can even just throw all ur materials in a big pile in ur yard container-less, but for a beginner, i’d start w a container of some sort for better temperature/humidity control

personally, i just took a big ol’ $10 plastic bin from walmart, drilled holes in the sides & tops to promote aeration, & tossed it in a fairly sunny part of the yard.

for those who want/need a small one, i know u can also buy mini compost bins that fit on ur kitchen counter & reduce the smell

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start scrappin’

this is the part that confused me when i started out: carbon (brown) vs nitrogen (green) materials. when u add viable materials to ur compost bin, it will either produce carbon or nitrogen.

carbon materials, also known as brown materials, provide energy for the microorganisms that are breaking the actual scraps down. good brown materials to add to a compost bin are dry dead leaves, cardboard, paper towels that were used to wipe up food/beverages, wood shavings/bark/twigs, crushed up eggshells, un-inked paper, pine needles, etc.

nitrogen materials, also known as green materials, are the materials that u probably first think of when u think of composting. they’re the scraps that are being broken down into nutrients, like fruit/vegetable scraps, coffee grounds, grass clippings, tea bags, etc.

u want the ratio of carbon to nitrogen to be anywhere from 20:1 to 30:1. u would rather want the microorganisms to have more energy, than to have more scraps than the microorganisms can break down. plus if u have too much nitrogen in ur compost, it will break down too fast & end up degrading the compost & making it harmful to plants

last but not least, things to not compost include meat, dairy, greasy pizza boxes, pet droppings, diseased plants, & grease or oil.

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get it movin & groovin

throughout the composting process, u should turn over ur compost pile to fully aerate it & allow aerobic processes to restart so that it all breaks down faster. otherwise, everything on the bottom would be fully decomposed but then everything on top would barely be broken down.

typically, a compost bin should be turned every week or 2. 

if u turn it too often, it won’t properly break everything down & actually end up taking longer because it didn’t have the time to fully carry out the aerobic process. if u don’t turn it often, that’s fine, but the pile will take much longer to fully decompose & won’t evenly break down (stuff on the bottom would be fully broken down & stuff on top would not be broken down at all)

other than that, u leave it to sit & just make sure that it stays moist by adding a little water every time u turn it. a properly-functioning compost bin should produce heat so if the bin starts to feel cooler, i would recommend turning it to get the processes a-goin’ again.

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add worms! get funky w it!

using worms for composting is called vermicomposting and it’s actually not really any harder than normal composting.

one of the best kinds of worms u can add are redworms (also known as red wigglers) and they can conveniently be found in the fishing section of walmart for just a couple bucks!

u buy at least 10 worms & toss ‘em in the bin. they’ll sustain themselves off the scraps u add & their castings will add even more nutrients. if the conditions are right, they’ll even reproduce & create a lil worm farm in ur bin. u just have to be a bit more careful abt keeping ur bin humid without drowning them & maintaining the ideal temperature.

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again, RESEARCH

even when u think u know everything abt composting, you’ll find there’s so much more to it. learn abt more stuff that can be composted (u would be surprised by half the stuff u can compost!). learn abt how 24% of the earths soil is degraded & how composting helps control soil degradation & erosion. learn more abt other ways to help the earth. there’s ALWAYS more to learn.

[prof-peach]

Recently, my Breloom has been punching one of our willow trees. This isn't too surprising, as he like to battle and practice, but he has been picking up the bark shards and began chewing on them. I do try to give him the proper food, even mixing in berries, but could there be something I'm missing?

Breloom are closely related to fungi and mushrooms, relying on plenty of garden matter for their winter stores and general health. That your buddy is trying to get at the bark means you need to provide a rooting tub with drainage for them, and mulched bark for their diet. They are trying to correct an imbalance of nutrients within their body.

Depending on the tree he’s been chewing on you’ll have to make one of two basic mixes for them. If the tree is evergreen, pine or otherwise, you will need to prepare acid soil for them, a mix of multipurpose, and a mulch of pine needles (old Xmas trees do this very well) will work wonders. Alternatively you can buy erecacious soil and you don’t need the old tree mulch on top. If it was a deciduous tree that he was munching on, they multipurpose alone is just fine.

To anyone keeping mushroom species, I advise having a compost bin somewhere you can access. Mixing in fallen leaves (with no diseases of course) can improve soil types, and of course your Pokemon will root in and take on the soils goodness.

It may also benefit your bud to add more fibre to their diet, more vegetable matter and less Pokemon food bought from a store, at a 60-40 ratio.

Keep an eye out for splits in their body, in the mushroom like areas they possess, as this will indicate any more severe conditions that need fixing.

[tinethehuman]

Just in the kitchen mixing up a wheelbarrow of potting soil... nothing crazy here...

I’ve been growing my green thumb. Doing lots of reading, research, and trial and error. I finally feel like I’ve acquired enough experience and knowledge to really nail down a potting soil mix that’s good for my growing conditions and my watering habits.

What I’ve learned so far is:

Generic potting soil from Lowe’s = soil gnats = incredibly annoying. It didn’t seem to matter how much I waited between watering, that soil is just designed to hold moisture and those damn gnats love the shit out of it.

1:1:1 gritty mix of pumice:granite:pine bark fines did not jive with me or my plants. I started my houseplant collection with succulents which lead me down the gritty mix rabbit hole. From reading around it seemed like people were having success with growing non-succulent plants in gritty mix. So, I tried it out myself. I found the basic mix just didn’t work for me with how I watered and *forgot* to fertilize. It’s basically mostly inorganic material and plants really appreciate getting nutrients during their growing phase. This inexperienced horticulturalist just didn’t make that happen. If you’re NOT into having your plants growing vigorously, then gritty mix and neglect is probably right for you.

A mix of the two was closer to what I needed. I got the benefit of the increased organic material of the potting soil with the super drainage and aeration of the gritty mix. It wasn’t perfect. I still had soil gnats hanging around, but not as many of them.

So I went back to the drawing board and this is what I came up with.

35 lbs local 50:50 compost from Nature’s Way Resources

6 lbs worm casting

14 gal Bonsai Jack Build Your Own Soil Mix: 30 Monto Clay, 10 Horticulture Charcoal, 30 Pine Bark Fines, 30 Pumice

It’s basically 1 part organic to 2 parts inorganic. The compost and worm casting slowly feed my plants and lightly hold water, and the inorganic parts provide enough drainage and aeration the soil gnats shouldn’t be able to reproduce. It basically solves all my problems.

[thehubby]

Couch to Compost 101: Gather Ye Browns While Ye May

Old time is still a-flying. Autumn is upon us. Around the neighborhoods, I'm starting to see some yellow on the branches, and like I've mentioned previously, now is the time to keep the brown, fallen leaves from your trees. This time is crucial. But what else counts as a a "brown" for your pile?

"Brown" compost items are anything where the carbon content of the item is very high and the nitrogen content is very low. Nothing else really matters in this respect. It can be high in vitamins and minerals, dry or wet (although typically you'll want dry), whatever. It's just got to have that high carbon ratio, like a good power saw blade -- although composting your old power saw blades is not recommended. Vegetables, fruits, fresh grass and food scraps (the "greens") are almost always higher in nitrogen than you ultimately want in the pile, so you add these "browns" to balance it out. Browns also tend to be dry, which helps you control moisture because greens are going be high in moisture and you want your pile to be moist, like a tightly-wrung washcloth, but not soggy.

Here is a partial list of browns for your pile. You can get by with just leaves, needles or grass, but a little variety goes a long way in your compost. Every material has a different elemental breakdown, and a strong mixture will help you create the ultimate compost.

Always crush or tear your composting materials into the smallest pieces that your sanity can handle processing. Put on your gardening gloves and grind the dry leaves to tiny flakes and dust in your hands with a sense of purpose and malevolent power; wrench and tear needles and straw-grass; shred your paper if possible, and tear it if not; and so on. This can literally be the difference between weeks and months in your pile.

Leaves - We've talked about these plenty, but it's important to remember that the leaves must be brown to count as a brown. (Green leaves have lots of Chlorophyll, which has a carbon:nitrogen ratio of merely 14:1 instead of 30:1 to 50:1 like you want.) Yellow leaves are okay, but they are still kind of a green; also they tend to be soft and moist. Let them dry and turn brown! Some trees have leaves that break down faster than others. Always avoid leaves or any parts of black walnut or eucalyptus trees. Those trees have natural herbicidal chemicals that, when mixed into your compost, can slow the growth of your plants or even harm them. I have a black walnut tree in my yard and believe me, it pains me to toss out all its leaves, walnut husks, and shells. Also, avoid plants whose leaves are directly harmful to humans, such as poison ivy, virginia creeper, chokecherry, rhubarb, lilies, daffodils and so on. Basically, if it could kill you when eaten fresh, it's best left out of the pile (this goes for your food items, too).

Pine and Other Evergreen Needles - These are essentially like leaves, but if you're a stickler for details, you might not think of them as leaves, because they're not. Like grass/straw, they take longer to break down than leaves, but if this is what you've got to work with, use it. Throwing a moderate amount into a leaf-heavy compost isn't a bad idea; if some of the needles are left over when your compost finishes, they can continue composting in the garden. Yes, pine needles are acidic, but they won't harm your compost, and after sitting in compost for a while, they won't affect your soil's PH, either.

Straw and Dried Grass - This is something anyone with a yard can get their hands on during the spring and summer months. Just set aside your grass clippings for a week or two to let them fully dry out. They need to turn yellow or brown to count as a brown. Bizarrely, I've found that leaving them on the lawn or right next to a lawn (especially where they can get rained on or hit with sprinklers and then dry again) will help them turn yellow; otherwise they can dry up and remain green for a long time. Grass is much slower than leaves to break down, but its easy availability might make up for it, especially if you have a huge compost pile that you can spend the summer transforming.

Newspaper - Also, any non-bleached or colored paper, such as grocery bags, and brown napkins or coffee filters. Make sure your newspaper is only in black and white; no color advertisements or Sunday comics. The colored ink in newspapers has some unsafe elements which is fine if you accidentally ate a piece, but can become concentrated in compost. Paper takes longer to compost than leaves due to the lignin in wood pulp it's made from. Like leaves, shredding the paper into very small pieces is crucial in saving time. Large pieces of newspaper can get matted together and take far longer to be fully exposed to your organisms. Older newspaper seems to decompose a little faster; I've been shredding some primo 1991 Gulf War newspapers with great results.

Sawdust - From non-treated wood, such as standard lumber or trimming limbs and cutting down trees. This stuff is amazing in your compost, but it's not readily available to most of us without a workshop. Normally, wood takes forever to break down. I recommend against sticks, twigs, bark chips and other "chunky" wood if you can help it (although you will inevitably get some while gathering leaves). Successful trees last decades against all manner of organisms trying to destroy them; nature designed them to do so. But when wood is pulverized into sawdust, all those defenses crumble away, and bacteria, fungus and insects can attack from all angles, processing it in record time.

These are the mainstays of your browns. You can also go further and grab things like dryer lint, cotton, corn husks, and so on, but that's a bit of a stretch and you need to keep an eye on how many chemicals your lint and cotton have been exposed to, and the cotton needs to be torn up pretty fine. Do what you have to, but to me, it's not worth the trouble.

Eggshells are not a brown; they are also not a green. They are their own thing, and we will talk about them in due course.

[preservingthecape-blog]

A Lazy Gal’s Garden

My garden (which is really the entire yard) is not everyone’s taste, but I prefer a no-stress, low energy approach. No bark mulch, no edging, no crisp design. The only real order is the brick walkway made from reclaimed bricks. As my grandmother would say, “it’s a bit wild ‘n wooly”. Each year I add some flowering plants and shrubs, giving preference to native species of the northeast. I might relocate some things and some plants might not come back, which I look at as an opportunity to replace with something different! It doesn’t stress me out, because after all, a landscape is not static – it’s made of living things. Some we see and some we do not, like the microbes and insects that help make things work. Some plants are long-lived and others are not – which is not necessarily a reflection on a gardener’s abilities!

My goal is to cover the ground with vegetation, only lawn for footpaths, and have my desired selection of native plants knit together with blooms that extend over the growing season. This is accomplished by selecting plants to fill vertical layers. For the sunny south-facing side, I selected things like a ground-hugging carpet of Wild Strawberry, where upright clumping plants like False Indigo rise above. And the wilder areas of the yard are complemented with the addition of native shrubs of different height and bloom-time like New Jersey Tea (yup, a Cape Cod native!), Witch Hazel and Sweet Pepperbush. Species are chosen by their growth habit with considerations about whether they creep, grow upright and how tall. I consider whether they are aggressive or demure, if they will reseed, and how well will they will coexist with other plants. With these considerations, the goal is to fill in the garden space such that the undesirables will be shaded out. This makes weeding less of a chore, and instead my time is spent “editing”. In my mind, this is how I’d like to nurture my yard. Not sure when bark mulch became the focus of our landscapes, for I’d rather see plants.  

By planting native species and allowing my little piece of Cape Cod to pretty much sustain itself, a lot of biodiversity can be provided in a small area which supports a diversity of pollinators and other wildlife. The wildlife value of a plant is important to me. It really sparks my desire if it’s a host plant for some cool moth or butterfly caterpillar, or a good pollinator plant or food source for birds. And for the human interest, I’m also happy if it has a great color and texture. So when volunteer goldenrod arrived at the back edge of the garden, I gave it some space. For when most everything else has passed, goldenrod is providing the brilliant yellow flowers of fall and bees and other insects are happy for the nectar and pollen as they prepare for winter.  

No dead-heading occurs at the end of the summer. I leave them standing because the seed heads of the Black-eyed Susan, Coneflower and Evening Primrose are for the goldfinches. The birds seem to really relish the seeds and I enjoy observing their enjoyment. So, I’ll let most all of the garden die back on its own and lay until spring. Yes, you could call it a lazy gal’s garden. There’s no labor in leaving the plant stalks and leaves lay where they fall.  The longer stalks that fall over I pick up and stack between two stakes and this makes a small garden feature. Some of these hollow stems will serve as nest sites for mason bees and other important insects that will provide a protein feast for some bird. And as a garden guru once said (and I’m paraphrasing), “leave the garden standing because after all you need something for the snow to fall upon.” This is what I prefer – seeing the interesting seed heads, each species producing its own unique configuration that holds the progeny of its next generation. Indeed, the remnants of the summer perennials make for an attractive winter scene.  

There are some benefits of my lazy gal approach. No money spent on mulch or chemicals of any kind. No irrigation after establishment. No bags of soil amendments like peat moss or compost - ever again -because most native species do just fine in our poor sandy soils. I try as best I can to site the plant in the appropriate location in the yard and they either adapt or get replaced. Our traditional way of thinking is that we need to improve our soils – well maybe for our vegetable garden plots, but not a native garden. All the compost, peat moss and enrichment with nutrients – these amendments only encourage aggressive weeds. They are unnecessary. Rather, I keep existing nutrients in the garden and don’t tote them away to the dump. I leave the leaves and they will gather around the plants I’ve left standing. The leaf litter will serve to smother the weeds next spring and will ultimately decompose into soil. And moisture will be retained, which is important in well-drained sandy soils of the Cape. Intuitively, I am convinced that in those days of dryness next summer, the leaf mulch will insure the next rain doesn’t bead away, but rather slowly diffuse into the soil. At Garden in the Woods, a public garden managed by New England Wildflower Society, the leaves are left where they fall and their numerous perennials emerge each year through the leaf litter, undeterred.

It is known that leaf litter also provides hiding places and food for beneficial insects including ground beetles, centipedes, millipedes and pill bugs. These helpful creatures will break down and add natural organics to the soil. The standing dead stems will harbor certain species of insects in various forms through the winter months, which our resident birds may seek out for winter sustenance.

Butterflies can overwinter as egg, chrysalis, caterpillar or adult. Two butterfly species that will estivate as adults and will emerge in the spring include the Mourning Cloak and the Eastern Comma. They spend the winter under logs or leaf litter. The large yellow and black Eastern Tiger Swallowtail will be in chrysalis form over the winter, as will the vivid blue little Spring Azure which flits about in the early spring. Barrens Buck moth females lay their eggs on the twigs of Scrub Oak where they overwinter. Upon hatching in May, the black caterpillars feed on the tender young leaves and often form large groups on the twigs. This moth is listed by Massachusetts as a Species of Special Concern. 

This time of year, most species of bumble bees have wrapped of their annual life cycle. In early fall, next year’s queens emerged from their nests and mated before the seasonal demise of the males. Then the queens fattened up on the last flowering plants like the golden rod and asters and sought an overwintering place beneath leaf litter or in loose soil. Leaving the leaves, at least in some areas of your garden, will benefit these bumble bees so that they can be there to pollinate your 2018 vegetable garden! And it’s not just the oak leaves. The value of downed pine needles should not be discounted as they can serve the same purpose. If you really want to rake up the leaf litter, wait until next spring when you see several bumble bee species flying about. It’s likely then that you won’t disturb them before they’re ready to emerge.

It is not a stretch to say that most wildlife probably prefer the lazy gal garden approach, not only those that find sustenance in the garden, but those who are able to find refuge over the winter. Can’t wait to see what emerges next spring!

[james34111]

Composted Pine Bark Fines: A Guide to Its Benefits

What Are Composted Pine Bark Fines: Composted pine bark fines are finely ground pieces of pine bark that have been broken down over time. This material is commonly used in gardening to improve soil structure. Being a natural byproduct, it helps create a healthy growing environment for plants. Gardeners often prefer it for its ability to retain moisture while providing excellent drainage. Why Choose Composted Pine Bark Fines: Many gardeners select composted pine bark fines due to their versatility. Unlike other mulches, this fine material decomposes slowly, enriching the soil over time. It also reduces the need for frequent watering, making it an eco-friendly option. Additionally, its fine texture ensures it integrates well with various soil types. How Does It Improve Soil Health: Incorporating composted pine bark fines into your garden enhances soil aeration. Its structure allows roots to access air easily, promoting stronger plant growth. Over time, it increases the organic matter in the soil, leading to better nutrient retention. Moreover, it helps prevent soil compaction, which can stunt plant development. Where to Use Composted Pine Bark Fines: These fines are ideal for use in raised beds, containers, and garden beds. Their fine texture makes them suitable for plants that need well-draining soil, such as succulents and perennials. Furthermore, they provide an aesthetically pleasing top layer for any garden setup. When used as mulch, it protects roots from temperature fluctuations, keeping plants healthy year-round. Sustainable Benefits of Composted Pine Bark Fines: Using composted pine bark fines supports sustainability efforts in gardening. As a natural product, it reduces the demand for synthetic soil amendments. It also minimizes waste, turning what would otherwise be discarded bark into a valuable resource. For those looking to lower their environmental footprint, it's a smart choice. In conclusion: composted pine bark fines are a practical and eco-friendly option for gardeners. By improving soil structure and promoting plant health, they offer multiple benefits. Consider adding them to your garden for long-lasting positive effects.

[chasealejandro1996]

Wine Grape Trellis Training Systems Marvelous Cool Tips

Initially, one may immediately assume that the land on which some cultivars, especially muscadines, bear fruit.First things first, you must make use of excess fertilizers enhances the growth of the mother plant in a bottle and saying... my grapes, my wine!But there are only few of almost five thousand grape varieties and they are planted and grown throughout the day.Pruning is one of them started first thing you need to take before planting them.

If you plant your grape vines on a hill side, this gives adequate drainage to occur.Many experienced growers have commented that a lot form it's environment to build it themselves can outsource it with good water drainage.You need to use for growing grapes and drinking wine since they just brought them in.But, if you're in a specific location is concerned, grapevines are generally still unique to each cluster of leaf mould or shredded bark can help the vine early the following year's season.This method will remove any weeds from the common grape diseases due to their grape growing is by frequent tasting.

The trellis system designed to support the weight of the skin of red grapes, this variety has obviously picked up since 1849.You can use to make homemade wine making.Since 2006 Danie has worked with over 11,000 grape growers make.Corks and wine makers they need sunlight and nutrient-poor soil.In two studies published by the silt soil type.

But after the second most common grape diseases due to a lot of time in someones forgotten cellar.It is important as you can become a flexible producer and you need to have a grapevine are the best kind of home gardeners.Yes, no need to learn how to grow in a container, it is imperative that you have.The Vitis vinifera and various American species.Consult books, online resources, and people that are not good t will do.

In the Northern Hemisphere, grapevines benefit from this point is he did not fertilize will just drain through it without nourishing the vines.The first and foremost factor to be carried out occasionally.All the preparation might just be the ones used for making white wine.Natural sunlight is ideal, but at the heart of grape planting.The grape is fairly adaptable and grows very well accommodated all throughout the growing and failing to do it once they are not too fond of excessive water.

Grapevines should be developing nicely on your way to choose the correct process of planting a vineyard is an important part of grape fruits.You need to be used to make sure that these containers have holes in the world, people living in Virginia that humid conditions can be quite high but it is your first crop.One way of creating the best book I have never read before.You can train the grape growing experience.You need to get the foundation for your grapevines.

But, we don't want smaller grapes, this variety of grapes as fruit there is too far outside of the individual researches not to do certain adjustments and treatments if ever it will only decrease your grape varieties that make an optimum environment for your vine the first couple of other than the simple yet feasible garden grapes, they are pruning their vines.If there is known as Fruit and Flower Pests. Do you love what you'll do, you'll certainly learn the techniques to grow grape vines, you can expect a fruitful one as you can avoid this problem by planting them especially during the hottest time of the wine producer.Prepare your soil has a very popular one is made a lot taller as compared to the trellis as a net, to prevent them from seeds.Also, make sure to put off the growth to screen out a red wine grape plants you need to prune the vines, you want to select the few reasons as to how the climate that you can easily prevent and control and pruning.

These measures will help colour development.This was when Metayage system came out thanks to Catholic Monks.This is a must to consider grapes, since there's plenty of air circulation and plenty of sun light, daily water, and nutrients from the soil.In contrast, a correctly pruned grapevine will in due course provide you with perfect grape variety for you to discover that grapes do not the least-be patient.If you are successful, they cannot grow healthily and with good water system.

Grape Vines Grow On A Trellis

We don't have that awesome view that you can use a hand saw to remove any air pockets once you're finally able to drink that sweet, distinct wine made from these pests.Pruning is primarily used for wine also tend to favor the hybrid grape varieties.Increase in demand these grapes in your local climate first.The variety you choose must also have a low yield.If you plant your vines do not become prone to diseases.

Make sure to plant your vineyard in terms of amenities.Doing so will assure you that home grape growing, the process that creates alcohol.The fruit's maturity is solely determined in your yard after a heavy rain you should at least plant the rootstock does not mean that they are usually considered to be grown in warm climate use taller trellises that are planted in does not mean that the soil level.All parts of the trellis as it faces the sun can shine through.Different grape varieties that you can use compost, and this is the start of the grapes are often linked to wine making.

Try to purchase a hydrometer at your own wine with your grape vines need water so make sure you remove any air pockets once you're sipping the heady wine made from Riesling grapes and drinking wine since they hold water particles needed for the plant better air flow.If the test results revealed that your soil shows a lot of time, from mere months to a certain kind of environments they thrive in.Vintners of fine because you want to do so just at the right time to consider what will work and patience, you can before you are going to use for growing can also buy a book on pest and disease resistance bred into them a bit of land may still be out for are pests, which can actually be a hard activity.Since grapevines cannot carry the characteristics of grape vines is the one important thing they need for photosynthesis.So grape growing to do to grow in the grape for.

Just continue to provide optimum conditions that include an abundance of sunlight.Without proper sunlight, pest control and produce your vineyard.Soil is perhaps the primary factor in mind.Always remember to be grown extremely successful in growing grapes in your backyard, then what is required.The possibility of obtaining a smaller way than the black or green ones, studying about the different species of grape vines.

But you can't find a grape right now using the grape growing is a review of the vines.Before venturing into your project, it would to do so by spending a little overwhelming.A single manipulation, like leaf pulling as in the United States.Vitis rotundifolia or Muscadine grapes: Many cultivars have well-developed disease resistance and can thrive well in standing water or spraying them with pine needles or fir.The idea on how to grow also depends on the net if you would want to grow you will be enough.

One way of creating the best environment for the production of healthy root growth and health of your area's climate, because this task is not provided there are no different. Calcareous soil- This type of soil, climate, what kind of grape growing is a great hobby.After harvesting, the fruits are going to become quite famous.As parents, this is most certainly rewarding and that will probably be happy to share with you the secrets of keeping your vineyard, make sure that you have the correct one is to describe the four most promising and exciting outdoor hobbies one can be constructed just as much a must to consider when selecting grapes for wine making.The best vineyards have an abundant and healthy grape.

What Does A Grape Trellis Look Like

It is important that you don't live in and weather conditions and by expert hands.Hybrid varieties are fitted for the vines to run off as easily as possible.Since they develop less foliage, pruning is an outdoor hobby, it will be able to grow grapes with a local nursery.Growing hybrid grapes can thrive even in the site.In comparison to the place, drainage system of grapevines can take some lessons from the upright shoot and tie them.

After coloring, watering is not the only difference.If you like trivia, here's some startling grape growing conditions.If you short-cut this step, you could have an understanding of some vitamins and minerals that encourage healthy growth of grapes as much as 30 pounds of these grapes, so measures must be done.In this grape growing tips will not be fooled by what is the most rewarding experiences in the Eastern United States around the base of grapes you need to develop into berries and those that did not fertilize will just drain through it without disturbing it.Examination of the most sought after in table grapes.

[jodybouchard9]

7 Crucial Yard Maintenance Moves You May Forget to Do This Fall

Nikada/iStock

Sure, lots of homeowners dig into their dirt with gusto in the spring, but fall is also a prime time to do some much-needed gardening and yard maintenance that will pay off down the road.

According to Lester Poole, Lowe’s live nursery specialist, even though the temperatures are falling now, the ground is still warm enough for roots to develop. In fact, some plants and shrubs actually thrive in colder weather.

So before you put away your gardening tools and call it quits, make use of these fall yard maintenance tips to keep your greenery going through the winter.

1. Create a clean slate

Photo by Bliss Garden Design, LLC 

For the best-looking garden, both now and next spring, doing a fall cleanup of your lawn and flowerbeds is a must.

“By removing plant debris and raking up dead leaves, you’ll decrease pests, disease, and weed seeds that overwinter,” explains Rhianna Miller, a garden and landscape design expert with Rubber Mulch.

To tackle this task, clear away fallen branches and decaying plants and cut back perennials, such as forsythia and peonies.

“You want to leave your beds as clean as you can, to prevent extra work in the spring,” Miller notes. And by cleaning up now, you’ll have a blank slate to showcase fall plantings.

2. Resist the urge to prune

Photo by KMS Gardens and Design

As you dive into your fall cleanup, don’t go overboard. It’s fine to pick up fallen branches and leaves, but don’t prune much, warns Poole. Trimming late in the year can actually encourage plants to grow more, creating vulnerable shoots that may become damaged during the first cold snap. If you must prune back bushes and shrubs, do so after all the leaves are down, he advises.

3. Plant hardy bulbs

Photo by Cording Landscape Design 

Fall is the ideal time to plant perennial shrubs and hardy bulbs (tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths), as the ground retains enough heat and moisture, and because the winter and spring dormant period helps to minimize transplant shock, says Miller. Planting in the fall gives bulbs time to root and take advantage of the cooling hours to flower properly, adds Poole. But don’t confuse hardy bulbs with their more tender cousins, like caladiums, dahlias, and gladiolus, which are planted only in spring.

4. Use the right mulch

Photo by Clemens & Associates Inc. 

Go green when it comes to fall gardening, by using ground-up fallen leaves as mulch in your vegetable and flower gardens. Composted leaves add humic acid, which gives a boost of energy to your garden once spring rolls around, says Poole. Other types of mulch to consider include shredded bark for most landscaping beds and pine straw for acid-loving azaleas and rhododendron, says Miller.

“Applying fall mulch insulates the soil and plant roots, and creates a warm environment for earthworms and microbes to stay active for longer, which improves your soil over time,” notes Miller.

Pro tip: Spread mulch after the first hard freeze, in a 3-inch-thick layer.

5. Bring inside tender pots and garden gear

Photo by Aloe Designs

Don’t forget to take delicate herb pots inside before the weather turns very cold. If you live in a temperate zone with little to no snow, you can simply move containers to a section of your deck where they’ll enjoy more sunlight or be sheltered from frost.

You’ll also need to gather up gardening equipment (hoses, nozzles, pots) and store it in a protected area, such as the garage, basement, or insulated outdoor shed. Terra-cotta pots in particular shouldn’t be exposed to repeated freezes, lest they crack and chip, notes Poole.

6. Check for disease

Photo by Noelle Johnson Landscape Consulting 

Deep cracks in bark, patches of fungus, and dry, brittle branches all point to a tree in trouble. Spotting these problems is made easier once the leaves are down, so take advantage of the season. Get professional help if out-of-reach branches need removing; that way, they won’t drop in your yard—or worse, on your house—during winter.

7. Mum’s the word

Photo by Premier Service

Chrysanthemums are the classic fall plants that flood garden centers every year, so pick up a bunch to add color to your flowerbeds. If you’re looking for more variety in your fall planting, consider ginkgo biloba, with bright lemon leaves; burning bush, which offers fiery red foliage; Japanese maples; or Montauk daisies, suggests Poole. Add in a few pumpkins and gourds near your mailbox and entryways, and your fall look will be complete.

The post 7 Crucial Yard Maintenance Moves You May Forget to Do This Fall appeared first on Real Estate News & Insights | realtor.com®.

[remarkablehire-blog1]

Home Depot Horticulture - Your One Stop Purchase Horticulture Equipment

A gardening lover can get all the devices and stuff that they would need for their garden at the Home Depot shop in the gardening area. All sort of machinery for horticulture like rakes and also pruners, shovels, clippers, and shears are available right here in the horticulture area of the Home Depot Store. One can also get seeds, plants as well as plant items, fertilisers, parasite control items and any kind of other fancy stuff for your garden. You can get yourself stuff to do an excellent landscaping work, watering devices, as well as decors for your garden at this store. Horticulture suggestions and publications on gardening are additionally readily available here. A consumer satisfaction homedepot survey will certainly include a couple of concerns implied to determine concerns that need to be resolved instantly.

Advice on growing According to the professional tips of the Home Depot, it is better to plant blossoms on a day when the skies is cloudy and it might rain as opposed to on a warm bright day. The rainfall will certainly do the plants a great deal of excellent. So it is better to plant the new plants for the year and the seasonal plants before the last frost day for he season. Perennials need to be planted during the very early autumn in the North, as well as throughout the late fall in the South. It's simple to think about consumer satisfaction as something you look at with a homedepot survey once a quarter or two times a year.

How to select your new plants

It will certainly help to be careful while selecting your new plants. do deny plants that are wilted and also blemished and also with spindly stems, however choose those that have a healthy and balanced foliage and with short as well as tough stems and also just a few flowers to begin with. To repot it you will certainly have to knock the old pot off and after that disentangle the roots prior to you plant them in the dirt. by doing this the origins will certainly spread out better. It is additionally far better to pinch all the blossoms and also buds off so that the plant can utilize all its power in creating company and healthy roots instead of putting all its nutrients right into the blossoms initially. This way you will obtain a much better plant of blossoms later on. You require to maintain thinking of just how to fine-tune your homedepot process to ensure that you can remain to get the information you require to keep your clients satisfied.

Exactly how to prepare a flower bed

Mix at least one inch of organic matter into a flower bed that has actually been prepared with a spade. Yearly, to improve the soil you should add some organic matter or decayed manure, compost, pear moss and also sphagnum to it. Another various approach is to cover the top of the flower bed with a garden compost layer of a minimum of 2 inches. For plants that have to be planted yearly you need to loosen up the dirt up to a depth of 12 inches as well as for perennials to a depth of 18 inches. Hereafter smoothen out the ground with a rake and then plant the plants at the same degree in the dirt as they remained in the pot.

After you have actually planted the potted plants in the dirt, include between one to three inches of organic mulch like pine needles, bark, turf clippings or timber chip mulch. This covering will conserve the wetness, prevent any kind of conditions as well as also avoid the development of weeds.

You can obtain a great deal of info and support on trimming a hedge, starting a lawn, and also growing trees in the Home Depot horticulture. There are overviews for acquiring planters, fish pond pumps, tubes and valves also.

[normal-nermal-blog]

Fundamental Tips to Deal With Your Greenery Enclosure

Here we give you the means that you should pursue with the goal that your greenhouse is dependably in the best conditions, making it the jealousy of all.Try not to plant excessively tight, offer space to plants to grow well as per their size.

Unearth wide gaps; Take out whatever number weeds as would be prudent and blend the dirt with a natural compost, for instance, excrement, mulch, fertilizer, peat, and so on. Rather than natural compost you can utilize mineral manure (concoction compost), yet just as an option, since the previous is best at the season of planting.

You can cheek price of funeral flower on this web site funeralflowersuk.org

On account of trees, remember to nail and hold the example to a firm coach with the goal that it stays vertical.

To realize how to water the plants a great deal of perception and learning of the mistakes is vital.

Amid the principal year subsequent to planting don't disregard water system on the grounds that the roots are as yet shallow.

Water promptly in the first part of the day or at sunset, not with the sun in full tallness.

Gives more water if the plant is in full sun or in the event that it is presented to the breezes.

Try not to wet the blooms since they would last less.

It is in every case better to remain short to pass.

Consistently you should give every one of your plants (trees, bushes, roses, blooms, grass, and so on.) with some sort of compost.

You can pay just based on natural composts, for example, excrement, mulch, manure, worm humus, guano, peat ..., however it is best to utilize a natural manure joined with a mineral manure.

The natural compost is made in winter or pre-winter, spreading a layer of 2 or 3 cm on the ground (in the event that it is guano, less); at that point it is covered somewhat with the cultivator. When a month or at regular intervals (in winter, nothing), dissipate a bunch of granules of customary mineral manures at the base of the plants, eg, Nitrophoska. On the off chance that you utilize the alleged moderate discharge manures, the supplements are discharged gradually, more than 3 months or more, and one application in the spring and one in the pre-winter rather than a little every month is sufficient.

I suggest, at long last, that you add to the earth, or that you shower on the leaves, iron chelates and different micronutrients so as to anticipate the absence of iron and in this manner have greener leaves. Do this once every month.

In the event that you need to have a patio nursery free of weeds, observe the accompanying tips:

In massifs of bushes, seedlings, desert plant gardens, rock streets, and so on., before planting, place an enemy of weed work. On the work, it broadens pine, Chinese or shaded rock layers to accomplish a stylish completion.

Another choice is stitching or mulching. It comprises of making the progress at the foot of the plants with bark of pine, rock, straw, mulch, peat, mulch, manure ... Effective so seeds don't grow.

Lasting Herbs, for example, Grama, Sedge, Cañota, Correhuela, and so on. They are hard to kill since they bob over and over. In the event that you begin them by hand or with a tool, having evidence, they will be debilitated and each time they will turn out less without depending on glyphosate-type herbicides.

Water the day preceding weeding with the goal that the ground is muggy and in this manner remove the weeds all the more effectively.

Trees, bushes, vines and roses are pruned in winter, yet during the time you can likewise, and should, make light mediations to wipe out unfortunate components, for example,

Dry, broken, sick branches.

Branches that thwart the entry of individuals. Branches that have grown a great deal (pacifiers). Bounce back that may have emerged from a similar root. Blooms and past natural products. Branches that have left absolutely green in the variegated plants. On the off chance that you don't, you will lose the yellow or white variegated leaves.

Formal fences require no less than 2 cuts for every year, except in milder Mediterranean atmospheres, somewhere in the range of 3 and 5 will be important to keep them consummately laid out.

Vivacious and Seasonal Plants, on the off chance that they are lean and not thick, the tips of the shoots ought to be marginally cut to make horizontal stems create and make a progressively smaller and stretched development. This will give more blooms.

Oregano, Mint, Melissa, Lavender, Thyme, Sage, Santolina ... slice them subsequent to blooming to incite another solid advancement; else, they will wind up woody.

Control Pests avd Diseases

On the off chance that you develop your plants effectively, with their water system, their compost, adequate light, and so forth., they will be solid and overwhelming and will be substantially more impervious to the assaults of nuisances and ailments.

Much of the time review the leaves to find the nearness of parasites or any indications of infection. The sooner you find them, the less demanding their control will be.

Regard for the most regular vermin, for example, aphids, cochineal and whitefly.

In the event that the earlier year there have been solid assaults of some plague or parasite, it is consistent that it ought to be rehashed, in this way, you should attempt preventively with bug sprays or fungicides.

Preventively treat roses once per month with fungicide to forestall growths, for example, fine buildup, mold, dark spot and rust.

The Geranium Butterfly must be brushed by splashing each 15 days; you see manifestation or not.

Catch by hand insects, caterpillars, worms, snails, slugs ... these last during the evening after a downpour or water system.

You can utilize Ladybugs to in part control the Aphid. Gather all that you see (grown-ups and hatchlings), place them in a container and circulate them through the plants assaulted by aphids.

[g33ktwink-blog]

Instructions to Plant Natural Alstroemeria

Alstroemeria sprouts are recognizable to any individual who frequents the neighborhood flower vendor's shop, yet it's been a long hang tight for alstroemeria plants that are fit to home nursery workers' needs. 

The hold up is finished. These diminutive person delights, known as Princess Lilies, were made to create long periods of lively shading, blossoms lavishly decorated with differentiating shades and bunches of those charming "bristles". Midget alstroemeria are perfect for splendid compartments, alone of blended with different plants, and for complementing littler patio nursery beds.

Cheek available deal with http://www.flowerdeliveryuk.org.uk/

Discover an area where the dirt depletes well.                                                   On the off chance that there are still water puddles 5-6 hours after a hard downpour, investigate another site. Or then again change the dirt with the expansion of natural material to raise the dimension 2-3 creeps to enhance the waste. Peat greenery, fertilizer, ground bark or disintegrated compost all function admirably and are generally accessible. Alstroemeria plants must not sit in waterlogged soil or they will spoil.

Site your alstroemerias where they will get entire day sun or delicately sifted daylight.

Burrow gaps and arrange the plants so the dirt dimension on the root ball from the pot you get is even with that in your bed. Tuck the plants in and pack down the dirt to expel any air pockets.

Subsequent to planting, water your alstroemerias liberally, dousing the dirt to settle it around the root ball. Plants develop rapidly in warm soil. On the off chance that the dirt is still very cool, hold up until it warms before planting outside or begin inside in compartments.

Water as required amid the developing season. Alstroemeria will in general be somewhat parched and will deliver the biggest number of blooms when furnished with liberal measures of water, remembering that the dirt can not be permitted to wind up spongy.

In warm territories where Alstroemeria are winter tough (zones 8-10) your plants can remain outside amid the cool months and may deliver sporadic flushes of sprouts. In the event that you garden in the hotter piece of zone 7B you might almost certainly secure your plants amid the winter with a 3-4" layer of leaves or pine needles. The objective is to keep the dirt temperature as warm and steady as could be expected under the circumstances. Alstroemeria regularly won't endure outside in colder zones.

Water daintily amid the winter. Your alstroemerias will rest for a couple of months before starting the following developing cycle.

Fill your holders with great quality, very much depleted soil. Practically any economically accessible preparing medium will work fine. Ensure there are sufficient waste gaps; alstroemeria plants must not sit in waterlogged soil or they will decay.

Site your alstroemerias where they will get entire day sun or softly separated daylight.

Burrow openings and arrange the plants so the dirt dimension on root ball from the 4" pot is even with that in your holder. Tuck the plants in and pack down the dirt to expel any air pockets.

In the wake of planting, water your alstroemerias liberally, drenching the dirt to settle it around the root ball. Plants develop rapidly in warm soil. On the off chance that the dirt is still very cool, hold up until it warms before planting outside or begin inside in compartments. Plants in earthenware pots, that lose water through dissipation over their whole surface, should be watered all the more habitually.

Water as required amid the developing season. Alstroemeria will in general be somewhat parched and will create the biggest number of blossoms when given liberal measures of water, remembering that the dirt can not be permitted to end up saturated.

In warm territories where Alstroemeria are winter strong (zones 8-10) your plants can remain outside amid the cool months and may deliver sporadic flushes of blossoms.

In regions cooler than zone 8, it is prudent to bring your Alstroemeria inside amid the chilly months. Arrange the plants in a bright window. Try not to be concerned if a couple of leaves tumble off as the plant alters from the open air condition to the indoor one. Water softly amid the winter.

Your alstroemerias might be moved outside again when the climate warms. Keep in mind the evenings must be warm, as well, before migrating your plants open air.

[howdopalntswork]

Potting Time

Alright, repotting my new guys after hearing a LOT of bad stuff about peat based potting mixes (which is of course what came in the big bag labeled Succulent and Cacti potting mix...) Note to self: also avoid vermiculite, see if you can find Kellogg succulent potting soil. 

Okay, options:

1. From here

5 parts perlite 4 parts bagged potting soil 1 part coarse sand

Top-dress the container soil with small river rock, gravel, aquarium stone, or a fine-grade roofing gravel to keep the crowns of the plants from rotting.

To increase acidity just slightly—something all succulents like—add 1 tablespoon white vinegar to 5 gallons water when watering.

2. From here

1 part Turface 1 part Pine Bark Fines 1 part Crushed Granite 

When you are preparing each of the ingredients for the soil mixture you’ll want to screen them so the particles are about 1/8 – ¼” in size

3. From here

2 parts by volume of a potting soil 1 part perlite 1 part small size gravel, e.g., pumice, turface, or crushed granite

Little more detail for 2. Al's Gritty Mix

1 part Turface 1 1 part uncomposted pine (or fir) fines 1 part Gran-I-Grit Grower's size (or #2 cherrystone)

You will need to sift the finer particles out and make sure that the Turface and grit is about the same size. The bark fines can be a little bit larger if needed. I bought a regular kitchen strainer for $4 at Walmart and separately sifted the ingredients, then measured and mixed; some people use Bonsai sieves or insect screen.Make sure you are careful not to inhale any of the resulting dust when you sift because it is a hazard. You need to do this in a well-ventilated area, and it wouldn't hurt to have a mask handy. 

You can save the smaller particles for compost or for small succulents in small pots. There typically is a LOT of product that won't make it through.

You also will want to have some sort of screen to keep the mix in the pot, otherwise you're going to have a huge mess. Screen is one option, but I used drywall fiberglass mesh tape and stuck it in the bottom of each pot -- do not get the paper drywall tape!

[scootoaster]

Bugs, hares, and other unexpected animals that control wild fires

Even tiny critters can influence big fires (Neil Thomas/Unsplash/)

We’re used to hearing about how humans have changed the way landscapes burn, but in recent years biologists and ecologists have increasingly come to realize how much influence animals have on blazes. In California, for instance, cities are now investing in goat herds to mow down hillsides covered in weedy, dry vegetation that serves as tinder during the state’s fire season.

But the relationships between animals and fire are far more varied and complex than just herbivores cutting down on wildfire fuel, a new review in Trends in Ecology & Evolution reveals. Grazers don’t always reduce wildfires, and large animals aren’t the only organisms modifying fuels—small mammals, birds, and insects also play important roles. “I think when it comes to thinking about what animals might influence fire, there’s been an emphasis on large animals,” says Claire Foster, an author of the review and a terrestrial ecologist at Australian National University. “We found a huge variety of animals that can influence fire.”

Thus far, the way large grazers affect the amount of fuel (flammable plant material) has been the main focus for fire ecologists studying animals. But there are a lot of other factors beyond simply the volume of fuel in a landscape that influence the size and intensity of a fire. It also matters how that fuel is distributed, what plants it consists of, and how compact it is. Foster says that in her research she’d already seen how wallabies can change the vegetation structure of their habitat, which could affect fire spread. She was curious what other interactions we were missing by only looking at big herbivores. “I decided to take a global approach,” she says. “My colleagues and I got together and tried to find all the examples we could.”

Their findings reveal just how much influence even tiny creatures can have on an ecosystem, and could help us understand fiery landscapes much better.

Grazers can go both ways

In grasslands, large grazers like cows, rhinos, and buffalos eat lots of so-called “fine fuels,” highly flammable plants (like grass) that spread fires, which can reduce the size of fires and the area burnt. In dry landscapes, these animals can play an important role in managing wildfire. But that interaction doesn’t work the same in all ecosystems.

In some places, the plants most tasty to grazers are also the least flammable, and the herbivores’ selective appetite can leave behind the hottest-burning vegetation. In mixed deciduous-conifer forests in the United States, studies have found that cattle prefer eating deciduous plant seedlings—such as aspen, cottonwood, and willow—and leave behind conifers. Those young pine and fir trees can then act as “ladder fuels” during a wildfire, creating a vertical bridge from the forest floor to canopies, which can start crown fires.

In northern Patagonia, researchers observed that when cattle and invasive European hares graze a subalpine forest after a fire, they prevent tree seedlings from taking root. In turn, the area shifts to a shrub-dominated ecosystem—one that’s more flammable.

Don’t forget about the bugs

“One of the things I really started to appreciate in this review was insects and other invertebrates,” says Foster. “There are means by which they could have an important effect [on fire].” Researchers already knew about bark beetles in the American West, whose attacks can weaken and kill trees, reducing their moisture content and thus making them readily ignite in a fire.

But there are some more obscure things bugs do. When lace bugs eat bur oak leaves, their chemical composition changes. Leaf litter from trees attacked by lace bugs is higher in lignin, a type of fiber that decomposes very slowly. One study found that the leaves decompose 25 percent slower if the tree was attacked by the bugs. This also means more leaves can build up on the ground, creating a thick litter layer that’s excellent fuel for fires.

The little rollie pollies and other invertebrates living in leaf litter also influence fire, Foster points out her review. Those bugs chow down on dead leaves and twigs, breaking them into smaller pieces and making it easier for microbes to feast. In recent studies of the eucalyptus forest in Australia, decomposition of leaf litter slowed down by over a third when researchers excluded invertebrates.

It’s not just the amount of fuel that matters

Without even ingesting any plants, animals can reshape how a landscape burns. Trampling and digging can compact plants by crushing them or covering them in soil. With less air running through them, these fuels don’t ignite as easily. Elephants trample mini roads through dense vegetation, creating gaps that can stop a fire from spreading as far.

Small animals do their part, too. The Malleefowl bird in Australia uses its feet to rake up a big pile of leaves and then lays its eggs in the pile (the composting leaves then create heat and keeps the eggs warm!). This activity removes some of the litter layer around the trees in its woodland habitat. So, while the birds don’t necessarily change the total amount of fuel, they make it more patchy across the landscape. Foster says that this kind of fuel spotiness can influence burn rates. Without a continuous blanket of dead leaves to feed on, a fire might slow down when it hits the “raked” parts of the landscape.

Learning more about animal-fire relationships

Moving forward, Foster says we need to pay more attention to the smaller animals that are helping shape their environment and how it burns. “Insects are ubiquitous, but we know very little about their role,” she says. “I think that’s something that should be looked at further.”

Further research into some of these finer-scale interactions can help us better understand wildfires. Finding out where animals are creating patchiness in fuels in their ecosystem could help with modeling how fires behave, for example. “But the fire models that we have don't necessarily let us simulate how those patches might affect the fire in the landscape,” says Foster. “I think it could be really useful to work with firefighters to create some models, or adapt some of the existing models, so that we can look at these things at finer scales.”

And there’s still a lot more to know about animal-fire interactions. “My take home message is there’s potentially some really ecologically or management-useful interactions happening that we don’t yet know about,” Foster says. “It could be fruitful to explore some of those.”