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ckao03 · 1 year ago
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Okay, I could talk about each of these topics in greater depth, but I'll keep it boiled down or else I'll be typing for a loooong time. If anyone wants elaboration on the following steps or on any particular pieces I've done, let me know and I'll give more tips and tricks later :) Apologies for the formatting, I'm still getting used to posting on Tumblr
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Step 1: Clean up and prep I start by sanding down leftover pieces and flaws in the model caused by the production process. In traditional model kits, these are pour tabs, flash and seam lines. For 3D printed, these would be pits or bumps left behind from supports and layers lines.
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The arm and boots on the left are from a traditional model kit, and have visible tab chunks that will need snipping then sanding. S.H.E.L.L.D.O.N on the right needs his supports removed, then sanding. Every piece (minus those with fine texture) gets buffed with 240, 320, 600 and 1000 grit sandpaper/sanding sponges (clear parts and any pieces intended to be painted with clear paints, such as character skin, are additionally polished with a melamine sponge, also known as a magic eraser).
This is to make sure the surface is level and uniform. Any bumps or scratches that aren't removed will show up in the final paint job.
(Note for beginners: It's fine to just remove production remnants and do a little clean up before going to the next step. All that prep is tedious! Just have fun with it for now!)
Step 2: Make sure the model parts fit well together. It's very common for a model to not fit together perfectly right away. Dipping the model in hot water to soften it, then pressing the pieces together usually fixes this. Be careful not to burn yourself! Sometimes drilling and sanding is required. At this point, larger model kits will require drilling and pinning, though most are fine being assembled later just with glue.
Step 3: Primer
I secure the pieces on clips to keep them elevated, and spray them in thin, even layers of primer. Primer is essential, as it is what makes the paint stick to the model. - White primer: Best for anime and cartoon figures, makes colors pop - Grey: For realistic characters, dulls colors down a little. - Black: For metal or specialty products, like Armored Komodo pigments
Primer will make any unresolved blemishes become more visible, so I usually go back to step 1 until I get them all.
Step 4: Clear coat
For an even, level paint job, I spray a layer of Gloss clear coat on every piece, to smooth the surface even more. I skip this for finely textured pieces, so the details don't get filled in. Spray in a well ventilated area with protection!
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There are many brands of clear coats. These are my favorites!
Step 5: Paint
I use three kinds of paint:
Lacquer: Expensive, take a little while to cure, must be thinned with a solvent. Sometimes hard to find. Offers lovely effects, is durable and sticks very well. Can be difficult to correct if something goes wrong. *HAZARDOUS, use in a well ventilated or outside area and use breathing protection!*
Enamel: A little easier to find, takes a long time to cure, which sometimes is a benefit, as it can level itself and provide a smoother surface. Must be thinned with a solvent, sticks very well. Most importantly, enamel can be used on top of lacquers and erased without damaging the lacquer layer. *HAZARDOUS, use in a well ventilated or outside area and use breathing protection!*
Acrylic: Great, vibrant colors, easy to find, very affordable! Dries very fast, even faster if you lightly use a hair dryer. Very delicate, prone to scratches and chips. Can be easily stained by other acrylic color. You only need water to thin it!
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Left to right: Creos Mr Hobby Lacquers, Tamiya Enamel, Vallejo Acrylics
I usually start with the character's skin first. This is because I paint skin using built up layers of clear colors, to get a sort of 'glow' that shines through to the primer and differentiates the skin from clothing and hair pieces.
Afterwards and throughout the project, I 'save' my work by spraying a layer of clear Gloss or Matte spray. I use an airbrush, so to further protect other parts of my work, I cover the finished pieces in masking liquid and/or masking tape, before spraying the next color. Because Enamel can be easily wiped off of lacquers without affecting the lower color layers, I use this type of paint second. If you use Enamel first, you may run into issues with the underlying lacquer causing paint cracking in the future.
(Note for beginners: Using just acrylics is fine. :) I have painted entire models with acrylic paints obtained from craft stores and Walmart, and had very good results.)
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Despite my masking, some enamel paint leaked through on Casey's neck. Masking is rarely perfect, so expect to do touch ups after removal.
Step 6: Face eyes and details
...this is an entire essay on it's own, which will require another post. But I use layers of enamel for eyes, water color pencils for eyebrows, chalk pastels for makeup/shading and acrylics for eye lashes.
I have shaky hands sometimes, so the ability to erase my work and start again is very helpful here, hence why I don't use lacquers for this part.
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There are... So many products and colors in this one piece... Step 7: Touch ups then gluing
I typically do touch ups as I go, but now is the last chance to correct anything. Once it's ready, 2-part epoxy or crazy glue (sometimes both) will be enough to get most models together entirely.
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That's a basic breakdown for my process, though for things like effects, clear pieces and fancier/realistic models, it can get quite elaborate. I don't want to scare anyone away from the hobby, so I'll just say this...
You don't have to do allllll this stuff!! Find a model you love (repainting dollar store figures is a great place to start!), prime it, and slap some paint on it! Just have fun, and then go from there!! My first model was lumpy, and looked like she was painted with nail polish, but I kept going and just enjoyed myself, trying new tips and tricks along the way. The point is to have fun! Make sure to take proper precautions and read product instructions as well, if you choose to use the more toxic products.
If anyone decides to give figure painting a shot, send pics of your projects my way, I'd love to see them!! :D It's always great to have more people in the hobby! And I'm always up for more questions, they might just take me a little while to get to replying.
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ckao03 · 1 year ago
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whats the usual process you go through for these little sculptures! i'm really interested :)
-m
It can be pretty lengthy, and changes a little depending on the desired paint style (anime vs realistic, for example)
I have free time on Sunday to make a proper write up of the steps and tools, so I'll make one then and include pics! :D
I'll use #ckaoadvice for painting tutorials, tips and tricks
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