#bea feitler
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Ms., August 1972. Art director: Bea Feitler
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Bea Feitler spreads in Harper's Bazaar via Riposte
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Um Pequeno Registro do Design Editorial Brasileiro e a Cia.
Alvin Ailey de Dança Texto Nabor Jr. Setembro 2013
“Bea Feitler, que aos 18 anos foi para os Estados Unidos estudar na New York School of Design, produziu essa série de cartazes e programas para espetáculos da Alvin Ailey American Dance Theater em 1971.”
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Photography by Bill Silano, art direction by Bea Feitler and Ruth Ansel. Harper’s Bazaar, 1967
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Ms. magazine covers, 1970s. Most of these were art directed by Bea Feitler.
#Ms. magazine#1970s#Bea Feitler#women's magazine#feminism#Cicely Tyson#Pam Grier#Shirley Chisholm#Bella Abzug
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Bea Feitler, born 1938, was Brazilian designer who worked in Rio and then later New York. I love her continually bold choices, be that through colour or mixing media. She understands that magazine pages should be deliberately constructed and at the same time have some level of harmonious rhythm.
‘A magazine should flow. It should have rhythm. You can’t look at one page alone, you have to visualise what comes before and after. Good editorial design is all about creating a harmonic flow’ FEITLER
Feitler’s work reflected and influenced changes in American society at the time, she used fast-paced imagery with a somewhat cinematic quality.
Interestingly, Feitler believed that a page should be 50:50 text to image. I’m not sure if I agree with this, I believe it depends on the page, some compositions should be more text / image heavy than the others so that the whole publication is balanced.
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Power of Print The Work and Life of Bea Feitler 16. Februar – 31. März 2019
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Women designers in history
In a world that largely fails to properly recognize the millions of women who lead the way in many fields, here at Webflow, we want to do better for the design community.
Here are fifteen women who have made lasting contributions in their creative fields, whose careers and work should serve as an inspiration to everyone.
1. Paula Scher
“The goal of design is to raise the expectation of what design can be.” - Paula Scher
Paula Scher’s work unleashes the hidden potential of typography. Through positioning, scaling, and space, she takes the tame lines of letters and makes them eclectic. This imaginative rendering of typography, combined with her bold yet tasteful use of color, makes her work instantly recognizable.
Paula’s first major role was working in the music industry as a designer for CBS Records and she would later move on to Atlantic Records. During her tenure in the music business, she would create album covers for such artists as Charles Mingus, Boston, the Yardbirds, and other notable musicians.
Her experience designing album covers would inform the widely recognized work she did for New York’s Public Theater. Where theater is often associated with a stuffy seriousness, she pioneered a branding identity for them that reflected the creative spirit of their productions. The posters she produced for them buzz with the energy of rock and roll and hip-hop.
A good designer can capture — in a microcosm of space — the essence of what makes something unique. Whether it’s on the space of an album cover, a poster, or the cover of a book, Paula’s designs balance experimentation with practicality to communicate messages in a way that captivates. Paula is still a working designer — check out more of her work over at Pentagram.
2. Ray Eames
“What works good is better than what looks good, because what works good lasts.” - Ray Eames
Ray Eames’ roots were in abstract painting, and she was an active member of the art scene in New York during the 1930s. A common criticism of abstract art is that it’s an amorphous mess, lacking any sort of cohesion. But looking at Ray’s paintings shows that, early on, she understood how shape, form, and color worked together.
Her talents in creating visual harmony would serve her well with the work she did with her husband, Charles, in creating furniture and other industrial designs. Ray was a true polymath, whose work as a designer, painter, and filmmaker all display attention to detail as well a high level of artistry.
There’s something timeless about all the work Ray was involved in. From the functional beauty of the chairs she produced to the abstract symbol patterns she crafted for textiles, even those with an untrained eye can recognize the talent behind her designs. She embraced a sense of modernism that has never gone out of style.
3. Louise Fili
One of the things Louise Fili does best is synthesize classic typography in new and unique ways. We can see traces of where she draws her inspiration, but her sense of inventiveness and imagination takes typefaces to places that are uniquely hers.
This flair for typography can be traced back to her time at Pantheon books. She was an art director there for 11 years and designed almost 2,000 book covers. That time spent on looking and arranging text gave her a chance to develop her own typographic sensibilities, as well as give her a keen eye for clean design.
Louise is still designing today. She heads her own agency in NYC and is still creating book designs that have a classic elegance and a slick sense of modernism.
4. Elizabeth Friedländer
Elizabeth Friedländer was born in Berlin, Germany in 1902. As someone of Jewish descent, hostility in Germany and the anti-Semitic Nuremberg laws of 1935 forced her to flee from her home country. Though she only got to spend a short amount of her young adult life in Germany, she managed to become the first woman to create two typefaces �� Elizabeth-Antigua and Elizabeth-Kursiv — for Bauer Types in 1927.
After Elizabeth left Germany, she spent much of her time as a designer in England. She worked across various mediums including book covers, packaging, prints, and typography. She had a talent for patterns and texture, which can be seen in much of her work.
From book design for Penguin to counterfeit Nazi documents and materials for the British black propaganda unit of the Political Intelligence Office — she did it all.
Elizabeth’s work is an example of how the creative spirit can shine through, even during some of the darkest days in history.
5. Zaha Hadid
Born in Iraq in 1950, Zaha Hadid was one of the most prominent Iraqi-British architects in history.
She studied mathematics and later went on to the Association School of Architecture in 1972. Though she was adept at the analytical skills that came from her education, she found something lacking in standard architectural illustrations. She developed an approach to loosen up these rigid lines and tapped into the expressiveness of painting to inform her work. We can see this duality — where formality meets artistry — in the curves and lines of her architectural works that can be seen worldwide.
Her professional accomplishments are many. She was the first ever woman to land the Pritzker Architecture Prize, which she received in 2004. Her buildings are undulating waves of glass and concrete, melding into the landscape, instead of the unmoving straight lines of more conventional architecture. Some of her most famous creations include the Broad Art Museum, the Guangzhou Opera House, and Galaxy SOHO.
6. Susan Kare
“Good design’s not about what medium you’re working in, it’s about thinking hard about what you want to do and what you have to work with before you start.” - Susan Kare
Susan Kare’s contributions to design shaped how we interact with computers today. Her work in creating icons for the early Macintosh brought what was once a sterile and cold piece of technology to life.
Susan put much of her time into developing her skills in the fine arts — she pursued sculpture in undergrad and in graduate school. Though her focus was in the malleable medium of clay, she learned graphic design as an intern in high school and would continue to land design gigs in her adult life. Her skills in these two different artistic pursuits — one tactile and the other visual — would be her guide in her work for Apple.
Susan created digital-based icons that reflected the real world. Macintosh’s scissor symbol was instantly recognizable as something used to cut. Instead of boring symbols, she wanted users to feel a personal connection with the machines they were interacting with.
If you’re on a Mac right now, look at the symbol on the command key. This icon was created by Susan. Derived from a Swedish symbol representing “special attraction,” any designer will see the brilliance in this small clover-shaped knot.
Susan has had a long and varied career as a designer, having also worked with Pinterest, Facebook, Intel, and IBM.
7. Bea Feitler
Bea Fetier was a Brazilian graphic designer who worked at the zenith of magazine publishing. At 25, she became an art director at Harper’s Bazaar. She held this role for 10 years, pushing its identity in a more modern direction. After her stint at Harper’s Bazaar, she was the art director at Ms. Magazine, whose feminist-empowering philosophy aligned her own beliefs.
Her work from the late 60s and early 70s captures an aura of excitement and experimentation that seized the art world. Before her death in 1982, her design skills touched Rolling Stone and Vanity Fair, as well as album covers, advertisements, and posters.
Bea was one of the first women in design to give a voice to feminism through her work, showing that graphic design can be more than just an arrangement of text and visuals, but that it can help challenge societal norms and push forward change.
8. Deborah Sussman
Environmental graphic design places a focus on how people interact and process physical spaces. It relies on understanding how disciplines like graphic design, interior and exterior design, and architecture intersect to create spaces that are more than pedestrian experiences.
Deborah Sussman has had a prolific career as an environmental graphic designer for the last thirty years. She’s most famous for the work she did for the 1984 Olympics held in Los Angeles. She developed graphics and signage with a distinct visual language that helped visitors attending.
Whether you’re creating an Olympic Village or a website, both need to have a user experience that’s both engaging and easy to navigate. Looking back on her work has many valuable lessons for designers today.
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9. Cipe Pineles
Cipe Pinele brought fine art into the world of publishing. As the art director for publications such as Mademoiselle, Vogue and Glamour, she commissioned artists to create custom illustrations and other visuals, elevating these magazines from generic consumerism, into artworks of their own right. Her skills as an artist and graphic designer helped her find the appropriate artists who would give these publications a sense of distinction.
She is credited as being the first woman to land the role of art director for a major mass-market publication. Her influence can still be seen in high fashion today.
10. April Greiman
When computers became a viable way to create art and design in the early ’80s some were skeptical of this emerging technology. Others, like April Greiman, saw new dimensions in artistic creation that could be opened up, and jumped into this new medium. April was an early adopter of this brand new way to design.
As a part of the CalArts faculty and a member of the design department, which she joined in 1982, she took advantage of the technology available at the school. It allowed her to experiment with digital and video equipment. She used this technology to innovate new ways of creating designs.
This poster titled “Iris Light” was one of April’s most notable pieces. She took a 35mm photograph of a video image that was displayed on a monitor. The end result was silk-screened, bringing together both old and new technologies for something fresh and exciting.
Forward-thinking designers have a way of seeing the potential in technological advancements. April is an inspiration to any creative for embracing change to help one evolve in their work.
11. Marian Bantjes
Marian Bantjes draws from a deep pool of inspiration in creating stylized lettering, heady patterns, and rendering designs that defy conventions. She spent a decade as a typesetter in book publishing, fostering uniformity and cohesion in her work. Though there’s a strong sense of structural undertone in her designs, there’s an organic feeling and warmth to her creations.
After spending time as an agency cofounder, she now works on her own as a designer and writer. She continues to create work marked with her modern, yet hard-to-classify artistic sensibilities.
12. Margo Chase
We always love hearing stories about those whose paths took a turn or two before landing on their current career. Who would have thought that the woman responsible for the Buffy the Vampire Slayer logo earned her BA in biology?
Margo planned on becoming a veterinarian, and in an effort to boost her GPA for grad school applications, she took an illustration class. It was here that she found her calling as a creative. After graduation, she was accepted into the medical illustration program at UCSF, ultimately discovering that it wasn’t the best fit. She would then move to LA where she started her design career as a freelancer.
Outside of the work she did for Buffy, Margo has also worked with high-profile clients like Pepsi and Procter Gamble. She also worked in the music industry, creating album cover artwork for Prince, Madonna, and Selena. Her personality and flair for typography can be seen across all of her designs.
13. Debbie Millman
“Visual storytelling utilizes both language and art to pass on the essence of who we are.” - Debbie Millman
Debbie Millman isn’t only skilled as a designer. She’s also an artist, writer, and speaker. She also launched the first-ever design-focused podcast, Design Matters, in 2005.
Along with her impressive career as a designer, Debbie is also an accomplished author. She has authored six books touching on various facets branding and design. She’s also an illustrator, whose work has appeared in a variety of publications including Fast Company and The New York Times.
With an impressive skill set, Debbie is a multidisciplinary wonder woman, showing that it’s possible to be successful in a variety of creative realms.
14. Carolyn Davidson
Carolyn Davidson found her way to a career in design after taking a design course as an elective at Portland State University (PSU) in 1972. Her major was journalism, but she enjoyed the class so much that she soon switched to graphic design, earning a bachelor’s degree.
While still a student at PSU, Carolyn had a chance encounter with Nike’s co-founder, Phil Knight, who was an accounting teacher at the time. That encounter led her to a career at Nike, where she would eventually design one of the most widely recognized brand logos in history: the Nike Swoosh.
She started her career at Nike doing grunt work, churning out visual materials for meetings. She eventually moved up, creating marketing collateral, and was tasked with coming up with a logo for a new line of shoes. She came up with a couple different ideas, and the swoosh was chosen. She was paid $35.00 for her work at the time. Phil Knight later gave Carolyn more compensation in the form of Nike stock — 32,000 shares, to be exact.
The Nike swoosh is a simple symbol, but it’s effective in communicating motion — a pure display of Carolyn’s genius as a designer.
15. Muriel Cooper
“Information is only useful when it can be understood.” - Muriel Cooper
Muriel Cooper began her career as a designer in the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) publication office. She had a simple job, creating and printing flyers for the office. In the 40 years that followed, she continued working for MIT, where she became the first design director at MIT Press.
Similar to April Greiman, Muriel was another designer who embraced digital technology in its early stages — but she also saw the challenges that technology posed. She was brilliant at figuring out how to navigate the complicated nature of digital technology, using it effectively in her design work.
Her Bauhaus-inspired design graced many covers of books that MIT published. She also created the iconic MIT Press logo, with its minimalist row of lines reminiscent of a row of books.
Muriel is a great example of someone who stayed curious her entire career, whose expertise grew, and who stayed ahead of design trends.
Giving women the recognition they deserve
Women have existed at the top of creative fields for decades. Though much has changed in favor of design becoming a more inclusive space, there will always be room for more awareness and appreciation.
Pear Weerawong, Webflow blog https://webflow.com/blog/women-designers-history?utm_source=iterable&utm_medium=email
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RUTH ANSEL
For my research I really wanted to find a cool graphic designer to look into. I was looking into Ruth’s work online and I was really inspired straight away. I absolutely love he magazine covers with Harpers Bazaar and it has made me want to create my own magazine cover. I love the graphics and bright colours used as I can link this back to my trend. I could do something like this on photoshop and I could use some of my photography from my project and use cool typography and fonts. This would be a good idea when making a publication as you could use it for the front page to give it a proper magazine look. The images below have really well executed makeup looks that also inspire. There is a lot of graphic liner which is something I wold really like to start experimenting with.
Ruth Ansel is an American graphic designer. She became a co-art director of Harper's Bazaar in the 1960s alongside Bea Feitler. In the 1970s she was art director of The New York Times Magazine and in the 1980s House & Garden, Vanity Fair, and Vogue. She was the first female to hold these positions. After graduating with a Fine Arts degree from Alfred University in 1957, Ansel started working under Bob Cato at Columbia Records. She married designer Bob Gill who introduced her to the "New York Design Mafia" - George Lois, Robert Brownjohn, Saul Bass, and Ivan Chermayeff - but the couple later split. In 1961, Ansel started working at Harper's Bazaar in the Art Department, which at the time was under the directorship of Marvin Israel. Under Israel, she developed a critical eye and to create tension on the page. In 1963, Israel was fired after a falling out with editor-in-chief, Nancy White, Ruth Ansel and Bea Feitler became co-art directors of Harper's Bazaar. It was in collaboration with Bea Feitler and Richard Avedon that Ruth Ansel produced the now iconic April 1965 cover of Jean Shrimpton with a winking eye and a bright pink "helmet" that was cut and pasted from day-glo paper. In 1974, she left Harper's to become the first female art director of The New York Times Magazine. In 1983, she revamped House & Garden and in the 1984 joined Vanity Fair as art director. Ansel has collaborated for over four decades with photographers, illustrators and artists such as Richard Avedon, Andy Warhol, Peter Beard, Bruce Weber and Annie Leibovitz. In 1992, Ansel opened her own design studio where she continues to produce groundbreaking content today. In the past she designed the Dark Odyssey by Phillip Jones Griffiths, The Sixties by Richard Avedon, Women and The White Oak Dance Project by Annie Leibovitz. She has also produced ad campaigns for Versace, Club Monaco, and Karl Lagerfeld. Current projects include a book for photographer Jerry Schatzberg and a book on the life and work of jewelry designer Elsa Peretti. In 2008, the Wolfsonian-FIU organized an exhibition titled, The Thoughts on Democracy: Reinterpreting Norman Rockwell’s Four Freedoms. Ansel was one of 55 leading designers invited to contribute a poster based on the "Four Freedoms" posters created in 1943 by American illustrator Norman Rockwell. In 2009 she was invited to present her work at Moderna Museet in Stockholm, Sweden. In 2010 Hall of Femmes: Ruth Ansel was published, a book designed by Hjarta Smarta, highlighting her forty-year career and taking a look at what it was like to be the first female in these positions. In 2011, Ansel was the recipient of the Art Director's Club prestigious Hall of Fame Award.
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Annie Leibovitz interview prep
For this interview, I had watched a documentary about Annie’s life and how she got to where she is now. I have also watched some behind the scenes videos, of Annie on set. The following info is the summary of what I had found, which will be the basis for the questions.
· Annie started her career as a documentary photographer, working with her friends on Rolling Stones magazine.
· Her links with the music industry is what has kickstarted her early career- as she would go on tour with The Rolling Stones members, photographing the entire journey
· Annie is very open with her drug addiction past, which came as the result of going on tours, and trying to go along with what the rest were doing
· This empathy with the sitter is something which has made her work so successful within the documentary genre. She often blended in with the people she was photographing, and they no longer felt pressured to act a certain way
· One of her most famous photographs was a picture of John Lennon hugging his wife in a vulnerable nude pose, moments before his death.
· She had decided to leave rolling stone publication behind, and go to rehabilitation clinic for her drug addiction
· Once she had left, she began her fashion career as a photographer for then newly established Vanity Fair. She had found the switch from documentary to fashion quite unnatural, as she has never had to stage so many things before, though at the same time she found it liberating. In a sense it was a fresh start
· Annie has had tremendous success within fashion, shooting often controversial subjects (i.e: nude pregnant Demi Levato)
· Her love for celebrity photographs has kickstarted her career and helped vanity fair gain track.
· Her shoots are extremely sophisticated, often involving a huge team of people, set design and props. In a sense she almost builds movie sets, but for one image.
· She is very critical of her own work, something which she had learned from Bea Feitler. Bea has told Annie that she wasn’t selecting her best work, as she was prior used to releasing a huge number of photos in documentary- something which doesn’t work in fashion. This has taught her to be much more critical with each image. This has evolved to a point where Annie now takes one image before wrapping up the shoot, which had hours of prep.
· She uses a range of equipment, from 35mm Digital to Large format film.
· Her sense of direction of the models is perhaps the most standout feature that she’s good at.
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Book cover by art director Bea Feitler
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Project 4 Brainstorm
Three Inspirational Designers
1. BEA FEITLER (1939-1982): Art Director at Bazaar Magazine and first Art Director of Ms., the magazine of the women's liberation movement
2. PAMELA COLEMAN SMITH (1879-1951): British interdisciplinary artist, illustrator, writer and occultist who designed the Rider-Waite Tarot Card Deck
3. EMORY DOUGLAS (1943-Present): Revolutionary Artist and Minister of Culture for the Black Panther Party
EMORY DOUGLAS - RESEARCH
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1czT0dCtXqLfma0jZYXvBN-y4h-V1PaGQuVRhifuDN_c/edit?usp=sharing
References:
https://www.aiga.org/design-journeys-emory-douglas
https://www.dazeddigital.com/artsandculture/article/20981/1/emory-douglas-arts-rebel-without-a-pause
https://www.culturetype.com/2019/04/23/emory-douglas-i-was-the-revolutionary-artist-of-the-black-panther-party/
https://www.typeroom.eu/article/black-panther-roars-paper-revolutionary-art-emory-douglas
https://ushypocrisy.com/2020/03/27/the-revolutionary-artwork-of-the-black-panther-partys-emory-douglas/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emory_Douglas
MOODBOARD
https://pin.it/3f52Rt5
CONCEPT DESIGN AND STORYBOARD
I wanted to start my video with photos of the police brutality and protests of the 50s and 60s which are reminiscent of protests today. Black people have been the central target of police brutality since the conception of law enforcement in the U.S.A. and I wanted to spotlight Revolutionary Artist, Emory Douglas, for his Graphic Design and Illustration work for the Black Panther Party which spoke out against police brutality, institutional racism, and the systemic oppression of black people in the U.S. Following photos of police brutality, I wanted to highlight the Black Panther Party by showing photos of the BPP in color. Through working on this project, I discovered that the BPP were not only activists but ran free health care screenings and a Free Breakfast Program for children which fed tens of thousands of hungry kids—and it helped contribute to the federal free breakfast programs we have today. Unfortunately, I didn’t consider how much time this would take and did not end up including as much of Douglas’ artwork as I would have liked. I’ll be posting some artwork of Emory Douglas that I did not include in my video. Like Douglas, I used bright and dull colors in each sequence (usually limiting each sequence to one color because Douglas himself was limited to a piece/one-color palette). I found some great typefaces reminiscent of the late 60s and early 70s called Pricedown and FloridaProject.
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