#aquarium gravel on the bottom for drainage

[lamby-grahamy]

This is their full setup btw. Lid has a little inset of mesh and cling wrap to keep the humidity in. Also grabbed springtails ☺️

Y’all.

[aquariuminfobureau]

Sterlet (Acipenser ruthenus) are still sold for ponds, where they tend to be misfed, as though they shared the diet of koi and goldfish. As carnivores, they certainly do not, requiring foods that supply large amounts of protein, and fish oil. The sterlet and it's surgeon kin, cannot digest plant material, so they require foods based on aquatic animal proteins, as sold for predatory aquarium fishes. As predators with a high metabolism, they require 2-3% of their own body weight each day, though less when they are more dormant in the cold season. Sterlets are benthic feeders on insect larvae, amphipods, and the like, equipped with underslung mouths adding to their shark-like appearance. Thus food provided to these sturgeon will be eaten from the bottom, and should be of a sinking nature.

Adult sterlet can grow to around 90 to 125 centimeters, or 36 to 50 inches long, but a more typical length would be 40 centimeters or 16 inches. This species are active bottom rovers, requiring an aquarium or pond that is at least six times by four times their own total length. Although they are thus too huge for most aquariums, they are considered a small sturgeon species, as the largest sturgeon weigh in excess of a metric ton. Sturgeons have no close living relatives excepting the paddlefishes, which share their superficial similarity to sharks, not least because of the structure of their tails. In fact this asymmetrical tail morphology - upkinked and sporting the caudal fin underneath - was seen in the most recent, Palaeozoic common ancestor of the sharks and true finfishes.

Sturgeon and paddlefishes are an ancient sister branch to the mainline of finfish evolution, lacking many of the traits that are common to typical fishes known as teleosts, and retaining anatomical curiosities as are seen in ancient fossils. One peculiarity of sturgeons is their impressive bony plates. These can be sharp to touch, especially in younger sturgeon, and have obviously evolved as armor to protect them from predators. As a group, the sturgeons are famous for migrating between their freshwater spawning grounds and the sea, but not all species make such journeys, and even among the those that do so, may exist landlocked breeding populations, which inhabit freshwater year round.

Riverine A. ruthenus is among those species that is never found in the sea, although it is known to migrate downriver to overwinter, before returning upstream in spring to spawn on gravel beds. They do not seem to spawn on softer substrates. Wild A. ruthenus are inhabitants of temperate, alkaline freshwaters, more specifically large rivers and their tributaries, from the drainages of the Danube to the Yenesei. Data on their water temperature tolerances is inconsistent in the scientific literature. One source says that their optimal ambient temperature, is 13 to 16 centigrade, and the seasonal rise of temperature to 13 degrees triggers their spawning. But another says their growth is optimal, at 18 to 22 degrees.

The latter is, in my experience, quite correct for their welfare. All the same, sterlets are a coldwater, and certainly not a tropical species, and in winter the water temperature may be slowed to drop down to 4 degrees. Sterlets like open swimming space without excessive planting, or other obstructions to their path whilst they are roving over the substrate. As carnivores they might well consume small fish, but they are clearly harmless to mature sized koi and the like, and they are usually bought at a small size, to share outdoor ponds with ornamental strains of carp and goldfish. Unfortunately they happen to be intolerant of common pond medications that are safe for cyprinids, such as those containing formalin/formaldehyde, potassium permanganate, or copper sulfate.

[goingknowherewastaken]

Well... they're done! Did research to figure out what to do so we'll see how I've done as the days go on. I needed extra small pots for the itty bitty clippings so I ended up using the little teacups and mini pots I had. Those are going to be starter containers until those plants are big enough. The teacups, Mini pots, skull, and square glass container do not have drainage holes so there is a good layer of aquarium gravel at the bottom to help. The white pots and the large plastic ones have drainage holes so there shouldn't be a problem there. And then there's the little tray of leaves I will be attempting to start from. Now that I'm looking at these maybe I should have taken a smaller segments of the taller succulents in the three teacups???

[megansplants]

Hey! One of my gerbils died and the other moved out to another city into the home of an other gerbil (I don't want her to be alone, they're v social lil animals), I now have an empty aquarium of 100×40×50 cm. I was thinking of using it for plants. Do you have any ideas/inspiration what kind of plant habitat I could do there? Drainage is obvsly a problem. But maybe tropical? Or the opposite, sand & succulents & cacti? Thank you for your help!

@birdylion ok first, thank you for the support RE school 🥰

——

Secondly, omg YESSSSS. Vivariums / terrariums are so much fun!! Disclaimer, I don’t have any of the cutesy glass “perfect ecosystem” type things that love to float around Instagram, but I definitely do some other things that make for happy plants.

——

Before explaining anything about plants / drainage / etc, first I’ve gotta do a plug for the frogs: if you’re interested in another pet, FROGS are actually awesome. They’re definitely not cuddly pets, but they’re wicked cool, especially given that it sounds like you love plants and want to combine them. They’re also easy to feed, any pet store sells crickets for big frogs and flightless fruit flies for the little ones. I have a couple poison dart frogs (not actually poisonous) and they are SO FUN.

——

Read the rest below here because it has gotten REALLY LONG... whoops.

Ok so first: addressing the kinds of plants.

I honestly don’t have a ton of experience with desert plants in terrariums, so take this with a grain of salt, but in general I think that desert plants don’t love living in terrariums (please, anyone feel free to contradict me with a reblog + photos). The air flow isn’t great, and sitting on the bottom of a glass tank is going to have trouble with drainage, just as you predicted. I’m sure watering less helps, but it’ll be harder for the total water to turn over (aka allow the plants to dry out) when being enclosed on several sides. 

Tropicals: tend to do really well in terrariums that are constructed well, and if you want them to really flourish, some planning goes a long way.

----

Next: drainage / setting it up.

You have a couple options for drainage, in order by how complicated / difficult it is to accomplish:

Careful to not over-water

False bottom (my personal favorite)

Drilling bulkheads (really awesome if you’re doing a true vivarium to have plants and frogs ;) )

I suppose I have two different “enclosed plant” setups -- The Box “greenhouse” and my frog vivarium.

I’ve built a LOT of frog vivariums in my time, including working at the National Amphibian Conservation Center in Detroit for several months, and I’m currently rebuilding mine (I added bulkheads!) so don’t mind the “under construction” photos.

--

The Box

The Box is just a plastic tupperware container from Target that I used to move stuff around when I was in college, and to protect more delicate plants when I was traveling back home for the holidays. It has now become my miniature greenhouse. 

There isn’t any drainage out of it, just a thin layer of coconut fiber on the bottom (a common substrate for frogs) and I mostly set potted plants directly inside of it. It’s not the prettiest thing to look at, because the pots are just sitting on the dirt, but I like keeping them separate. I use this thing as an intensive care unit for plants that aren’t doing very well or don’t tolerate room humidity, so it’s nice to be able to swap them out. I think it wouldn’t do particularly well with a thick layer of substrate at the bottom because it would sequester both water and bacteria.

If you carefully layered some sort of sand and gravel and whatnot, I’m sure it could do well, but I have never had success with that kind of setup. That tends to work better with smaller-sized things, like little table-top glass domes and whatnot.

The thing about having any kind of terrarium (including this) is being vigilant for mold. When I first started the box, I checked it daily for mold and removed whatever I found. As long as you wipe it off of the plant, it shouldn’t hurt it much — the damage to the plant occurs when the mold can sit on the plant and do damage over time.

If you stick with it long enough, it’ll come to an equilibrium and the mold won’t be so persistent. I have tons of different plants in my box, moss in the bottom, the whole shebang, and I haven’t had any problems with mold in almost a year. I think it took about two months for The Box to settle itself out and come to a good balance.

Those photos are from a while back because I’m lazy -- that frog has sadly now died of old age. The poison dart frogs don’t live in The Box.

--

False Bottomed Terrarium

So this is exactly as it says -- you build a “false bottom” for your tank, which allows space underneath for water to drain. Bonus if you add in a tube to siphon out excess water. 

For my frog terrarium, I use plastic egg crate covered in household screen as my base, and PVC pipe as spacers (nice consistent size, allow air flow, etc.). The false bottom should be an inch or two above the surface of your tank. You can then plant your terrarium however you would like, with the soil directly on top of the false bottom. All excess water will collect below the surface of your soil, which helps cut down on the bacteria growing IN the soil, and keep the humidity of your tank high. 

If you add a spot to snake a pipe down (have you ever seen a fishtank siphon?) to drain out excess water (just tip the terrarium to help get all the water in the same space), you’ll avoid building up lovely sulfur-smelling bacteria. You can either leave it in the corner of your tank, or jerry-rig some kind of cap somewhere that you can then put in a hose to siphon. (I haven’t done this yet in my terrarium bc it’s still under construction).

----

Lastly: Bulkheads!

If you’re really brave, you can take your tank to be drilled (or do it yourself if you’re ballsy) for bulkheads. 

A bulkhead is just a hole through the glass, that you then “seal off” with a PVC bulkhead to allow you to get things in and out of the glass sides. In my terrarium, I have one bulkhead for the waterfall, one as drainage for the “pond” filtration system, and one as drainage for excess water from the land area. That REALLY helps the drainage problem, because you give yourself a hole for everything to drain from!

Keep in mind, water will still build up to the surface of the bulkhead -- it’s not perfectly flat, but it does a heck of a lot better than nothing at all. 

Also: if you ever decide to convert your tank to a fishtank, bulkheads do WONDERS for fish circulation and adds up to happier and healthier fish.

If you’re curious -- I’m working with a 20 gal tank (50cm x 43cm x 33cm) for some really tiny dart frogs, so it’s easy to do even in small tanks!

--

If you go with the vivarium / landscape type setup, there are a ton of ways to make it look really cool (fake rock that builds your landscape, etc -- that’s what all the yellow foam is in my tank), but the process on that takes a long time! I’ll answer that in another ask if you’re curious!

Heck, I’m even building a waterfall and pond into my tiny tank.

Here’s some terrarium inspiration pulled off the internet for your browsing pleasure:

[poisonarium]

Hi, I am thinking of building my own rainforest vivarium, but I am a beginner and I have a short budget. Can you give me some tips? (especially on lighting). Thanks again!

Nice!! That’s exciting! Let me see if I can help. Sorry in advance for all the text.

-If the lights are just for plants, and not for a reptile with UVB/basking/etc requirements: aquarium plant lights! You may not be able to get the most compact growth out of high-light plant species under these lights, especially when they’re less expensive/less strong, but it can still sustain your plants and also encourage good growth in most of them. I’m using an LED aquarium plant light for my azureus vivarium right now, and the plants are doing great, with only one of the plants having some leggy growth (but it’s still growing, so idc).

When shopping for an aquarium plant light for a vivarium, you want to look for a light in the 6500K-7000K (kelvin! not money! kelvin!) range. If you can afford it upfront, LEDs are cheaper in the long-run, since they don’t need to be replaced frequently like fluorescents do. Also, for heat-sensitive animals, LEDs are best since they don’t put out a lot of heat. I also look for something that will provide at least approximately 4 watts per gallon, but that’s not a hard rule at all, and it’s only important for plants anyway.

If you’re using a light like this, you’ll want a tank that isn’t very deep, because the reach of the lights drops significantly after 12″ from the light to the bottom of the tank. If you’re trying to do plants in a deeper/taller tank, stronger lights will be needed to compensate for the distance. (Or you can just stick to low-light plants and not worry about that.)

For the rest... I’m going to assume you know the basics, that you need a drainage layer under the soil, etc. (If you don’t, please correct me!) So, here’s some more swaps you can do:

-Plain, organic potting soil from a hardware/garden store instead of buying special, specific vivarium soil. As long as there’s no added fertilizers, and it’s specifically potting soil (which is less likely to get waterlogged than other soil and generally does better in a closed container like a vivarium), etc, it should be fine. I’ve used more-expensive ABG mix developed just for vivariums, and I’ve used just regular ol’ potting soil, and the results have been basically the same, and these are the only two I recommend for a humid vivarium. ABG drains better if you have rot-sensitive plants in it, but that’s all. I know purists would scream internally reading this, but seriously, the results between these two types of soil are nearly the same ime, after multiple years in high-humidity bioactive vivariums.

-Pea gravel for a drainage layer is cheaper than buying the stuff intended for a vivarium drainage layer. This can also be bought from a hardware store. If you have a hydroponics store nearby, the expanded clay pebbles might also be affordable for drainage. I’ve used both with good results.

-Window screen can be used to separate the drainage layer from the soil layer. Super cheap and easy to cut to size. Also from the hardware store (surprise!).

-Instead of buying special wood, you can just get wood out of the forest, for free. (Or in the parking lot of a landscape supply or smth, which I did for the most of the wood pieces in my leucomelas tank.) Caveats: No conifer wood, eucalyptus, anything with thorns, or anything that may have been chemically treated. There’s multiple ways you can sterilize the wood to get any pests out of it before putting it in the vivarium. (If the wood is going to be submerged in water, though, disregard this and look for aquarium-safe wood.)

If you’re setting up for an animal that needs heat or UV, unfortunately, I don’t think there’s a way to skimp on those things and still be safe for the animal. A lot can go wrong with cheap heat or non-reptile-specific heat, and UV just simply needs to be replaced often to ensure it’s still strong enough for the health of the animal.

There’s people who would disagree with a lot of things I said here, because they believe everything has to be vivarium-specific, expensive, etc to be safe and work well in a vivarium. But I only recommended things here that I’ve done myself after seeing other vivarium-keepers do it, and that have worked for me for years, with no issues with any of the animals ever. I’ve also tried things the expensive way before- pricey lights, special vivarium soil, purchased wood, etc- and the results weren’t so different that I would recommend it over the cheaper ways for somebody on a budget.

Let me know if you need anymore info. 👋

[blackmoldmp3]

new home for this dude. there’s no drainage hole so i just put some gravel and a bunch of those aquarium pebbles in the bottom and prayed

[crazyfishmaiden]

So my spiny eels are one of the highlights of my life (along with my loaches). I still have four, the three borneo eels who live in my community planted, and the spotted black eel (who is an absolute teddy bear, still not seeing the bad behavior everyone says they have). All the sudden they are going through growth spurts, easily downing and digesting twice their normal food amount.

As I’ve given them more and watched them digest, and then need more I got the idea to try a worm box. That way I can grow my own worms, control for what is going into them and possibly bring the cost down significantly.

So I bought 250 Red Wriggers, a styrofoam box, some basic potting soil, aquarium gravel, cheese cloth, a shallow bin, a small crate, and made use of some bits and bobs available in my work room.

The box’s handles were yanked off and left two perfect circle indentations which I promptly cut into to create ventilation holes. I used cheese cloth, thick fun foam, and cheese clothe to create a barrier to prevent bugs from getting in and causing havoc.

I carefully punched holes at the base/bottom of the box for drainage, layered the bottom with cheesecloth, and then aquarium gravel. The potting soil went on top, and I mixed in some compost from our little kitchen compost machine. After that I added water to make the bedding more moist, put the crate inside the shallow bin, and then plop the box on top of that. Now any excess moisture can make it’s way out and evaporate.

The worms went in when they arrived, and I feed them a few times a week on finely cut food scraps such as fruit, and vegetables (no citrus). I’ve also rinsed and then dried eggshells too.

The compost is definitely breaking down, and the worms never try to escape so I assume they are happy? They are growing too. I’m happy with how this has turned out. I thought I would share, to show I”m still around.

[tser]

Hello hello! You're an incredible resource in bioactive enclosures and I'm very thankful! I had a question about drainage layers! Do you know of an alternative to hydroballs? Preferably cheaper and readily available? I have one bag of hydroballs, but not enough to fill my enclosure. Can I buy another similar material and substitute that instead of buying another? Or should I just buy another bag? Sorry if this is a silly question, thank you!!

No problem! I’d suggest shopping around and finding what the cheapest options are for you, as it may depend on what you can find locally or what you can get free shipping on, as well as the price of these products.

Drainage layer options:

Zoo Med Hydroballs

Exo Terra BioDrain

Hydroton Hydroponic Grow Rock

Growstone GS-1 Hydro Stones

LECA (lightweight expanded clay aggregate)

NEHerp LDL (lightweight drainage layer)

Josh’s Frogs False Bottom

TheBioDude Drainage Layer

Egg Crate

Gravel

Some of the hydroponics materials may be cheaper since they are not aimed at animal keepers.

If you absolutely can’t afford another drainage layer material, gravel is possible. You can use aquarium gravel. However, gravel is extremely heavy, and also doesn’t have capillary action which the other, porous drainage layers do.

Here is how to create a simple egg crate false bottom: (Page One, Two)

Here is a more complex build incorporating PVC pipe supports.

Let me know if you have any other questions!

[livingcorner]

How to Plant a Terrarium – Glass Terrariums – Terrarium Plants

More Articles

Find more garden information

When you can’t grow outdoors, create an indoor garden that fits on a tabletop

You're reading: How to Plant a Terrarium – Glass Terrariums – Terrarium Plants

Ann Whitman shows how to build a terrarium at our garden center in Burlington, VT.

What You Need

A planting container

Plants

Gravel or small stones for drainage

Coir Brick

Fiberglass screen

I love planting unusual tropical plants inside glass containers to create small, fascinating worlds. They invite you in for a closer look and provide a perfect escape from the wintry weather outside. Terrariums are easy to care for and don’t require any special skills for success.

Shop for Terrariums and Supplies

When choosing a container, remember that closed containers hold more humidity and create a jungle-like atmosphere. Open containers are ideal for cactus and succulent gardens, as well as other plants that prefer less humidity. Clear, smooth glass offers the best view of the plants.

To make positioning the plants easier, it helps to have a pair of long tweezers (used for aquarium plants) or a set of kitchen tongs.

When choosing plants, select varieties that will thrive where you plan to display your terrarium. How much light will the plants will receive? South- and west-facing windows provide strong, bright light. East windows are medium. Fluorescent office lighting and north-facing windows provide low to medium light.

After light requirements, I consider the suitability of plants for life in a container. Ideally, the plants will grow slowly or remain small. I look for a mix of textures, colors and growing habits. Be sure to choose pest-free plants; even snails and slugs can wreak havoc in a terrarium.

The first step in assembling the terrarium is to soak the planting medium. I use Coir Bricks, which are made from coconut husk fiber. Coir has a loose, airy texture and it holds water without getting soggy. Its neutral pH, natural color and resistance to decay make it ideal for a closed environment.

Soak the coir brick in a bucket with plenty of warm water for about 30 minutes and break it up with a trowel as it expands.

To ensure good drainage, I add an inch or two of gravel to the bottom of the container. Avoid shells, limestone and other materials that might change the pH of the soil. By making a well in the center, I create more space for soil (and plant roots).

Read more: What to do if You’ve Found Termites in your Yard or Garden?

Cut a piece of fiberglass window screen to completely cover the gravel. It keeps the soil from falling into the gravel. I use fiberglass because it doesn’t rust. Trim for a tight fit so you don’t have exposed screen after the soil is added.

Position the screen so it covers the gravel.

Next, put moistened coir into the container, on top of the screen. Add at least 2″, and even 3″ if the container is deep enough. I like to step back and make sure that the proportion of soil within the container is pleasing; usually, the deeper the container, the better it looks with more soil. If I plan to view the terrarium from one side, I may slope the soil so that it’s deeper at the back to make the landscape more interesting.

Before setting plants into the terrarium, move them around on the tabletop to decide on the best combination and arrangement.

Starting with the largest plant, gently remove as much of the soil and white perlite as you can from the root mass. Trim overly long roots to help fit them into the container.

I like to place the tallest plant toward the back or off-center to create an asymmetrical design.

Some pots may have more than one plant in them. You can divide these and place the smaller plants around the terrarium to create unity or rhythm in your design.

Before using, rehydrate the sheet moss by dipping it in a bowl of water. Break it into smaller bits and tuck it into pockets throughout the terrarium.

Use tongs to position moss and plants. Mine are made for aquarium planting, but you can also use kitchen tongs.

Terrariums don’t require much more than occasional watering and trimming. I use a small watering can or a little cup to water down the inside surface of the container, so that I don’t disturb the plants. It’s important to keep the water level just below the screen so that the soil doesn’t get saturated.

Last updated: 01/25/2021

People who read this article often purchase

$14.95

$19.95

Read more: Orb Weaver Spiders – Facts, Pictures & Habitat Information

$59.99

$4.95

$34.99

$39.95

$27.95

$4.95

$4.95

$44.95

$64.95

$69.95

Sign up for Email

Get in on the best deals, new products and gardening tips.

Source: https://livingcorner.com.au Category: Garden

source https://livingcorner.com.au/how-to-plant-a-terrarium-glass-terrariums-terrarium-plants/

[hella-free-space]

Hi, I'm looking at using terracotta pots for my new tank but I saw in one of your posts you mention that the drainage hole should be plugged up. How do I do that?

Hiya @rachelica9 :D The main problem with the drainage holes is that some bettas have gotten stuck in them, but you’ve got quite a few options to remedy that! :)option 1: plug it up- you can use some aquarium-safe silicone- you can super glue or silicone in some silk flowers/leaves/plants- you can super glue or silicone in some rocks / gravel-- when using super glue, you want to look for “cyanoacrylate”. if you’re wary of buying super glue from the store, you can buy Seachem Flourish Glue!option 2: make it bigger- basically you just bust out the whole bottom of the pot- chisel away at the hole to make it large enough so that your fish can fit all the way through (you could probably use like, a flathead screwdriver for this >.>)-- with this option, make sure to sand down rough edges afterwards! also be careful not to break the pot...but hey, if ya do? now ya got 2 hides!option 3: bury it deeper- ensure that the pot is burried deep enough into the substrate (either angled up so the bottom is mostly burried or burried so that only half the pot is showing) that your betta (or other small fish) can’t wriggle themselves into the hole-- this might not be an option if your pot is large or if you don’t want to have a thick layer of substrate (usually 1-2″ of substrate is sufficient and extremely deep substrate, especially sand, can sometimes trap pockets of air that will become toxic over time)option 4: buy a terra cot pot with no holes- my walmart carries terra cotta pots with no drainage holes in the craft section :O they’re just as cheap as regular pots!-- i didn’t know these existed until recently and i’m not sure how readily available they are

Hopefully this helped you out

[ainawgsd]

Corydoras Catfish

Corydoras is a genus of freshwater catfish that includes 171 recognized species. Corydoras is by far the largest genus of Neotropical fishes. Corydoras species are distributed in South America east of the Andes to the Atlantic coast, from Trinidad to the Río de la Plata drainage in northern Argentina. Species assigned to Corydoras display a broad diversity of body shapes and coloration and range in size from just under an inch to nearly 5 inches long. The name Corydoras is derived from the Greek kory (helmet) and doras (skin).

Corydoras are generally found in smaller-sized streams, along the margins of larger rivers, in marshes and ponds. They are native to slow-moving and almost still (but seldom stagnant) streams and small rivers of South America where the water is shallow and very clear. Most species are bottom-dwellers, foraging in sand, gravel or detritus. They inhabit a wide variety of water types but tend toward soft, neutral to slightly acidic or slightly alkaline pH and 5-10 degrees of hardness.

They are often seen in shoals. Most species prefer being in groups and many species are found in schools or aggregations of hundreds or even thousands of individuals, usually of a single species, but occasionally with other species mixed in. Unlike most catfishes which are nocturnal, these species are active during the daytime. Their main food is bottom-dwelling insects and insect larvae and various worms, as well as some vegetable matter. Their feeding method is to search the bottom with their sensory barbels and suck up food items with their mouth, often burying their snout up to their eyes, one of the reasons a soft sand substrate is preferable.

The genus is well known among aquarists for its many ornamental species.[9] They are well suited to tropical freshwater community aquariums, as they get along well with other species and are not at all aggressive. Corydoras are quite timid and are recommended to be kept in shoals of three or more. These fish are fairly easy to keep, being peaceful, hardy, active and entertaining. Most corys prefer soft, acidic water. They can, however, tolerate a wide range of water conditions, including temperatures that are cooler than tropical.

[franceskarner]

The Secrets To Owning Tropical Fish Tanks

The the surface of every tank has a dent or a hatch. Could generally covered with mud with the fld. The mud around it really is have regarding dug to expose the hatch. Inspection must be carried on an annual basis depth of this cleaning can be carried out on every 3-5 years. There is one sure shot way of knowing can requires clearing. Once the hatch is opened, the internal height of your tank should be measured. Post that, all of it . to measure the height of your solid matter that has accumulated in the bottom for this tank. The street occupies 35% or even more than the height of the tank, rrt'll have to be pumped up. WC Replacement Dubai in appearance of your carpets would depend on how dirty they are to begin who has. Ours hadn't been shampooed in over 10 years, but very good vacuumed on a consistent basis. We have lighter carpet so the completed pass with this Hoover actually made it look just a little darker. The moment we were done it looked like different green area rug. It was a little darker, the nap was obviously raised and it looked being really good vacuuming writing. It was just barely damp, gear did an admirable job of obtaining the water and not leaving a swamp after. To start the gas tank cleaning process, the first thing you have to is empty the reservoir. Drain the gasoline so you can clean the tank properly. There are different types of cleaner you can use. What is important is to clean the tank thoroughly to be certain of every debris and rust is gone from the tank. Cleaning your tank properly will furthermore keep your betta fish healthy, though it will thoughts your tank sanitary. It's true that your filter will handle a associated with the dirty work for you, however, there is so plenty more to it than most first time aquarium owners realize. Exactly how do we keep this tank good? Besides the major equipment, popular supplies will always make the job a whole lot easier. Keeping a spray bottle of diluted hp in the kitchen is a good idea. It is acceptable for washing pollute off of store-bought fruits and vegetables, cleaning and sanitizing counter tops and stovetops, sanitizing cutting boards and cleaning babies high chairs and trays. It also works great to sanitize carpeting / flooring. Hp sanitizes best when used with cold waters. After cleaning the floor with dish soap and water, review it again with clean cold water and regarding quarter cup hp solution in the bucket. Your site also sanitize your mop and keeping it cleaner. There numerous items it's not necassary to put down your drainage. Water, waste and some bio-degradable items are acceptable. Such things as feminine products, soil, grease and insecticides are few of what shouldn't follow the pressure. Should any of these items go down into your drain, you risk backing up you septic system. This respectable brand has created its good name with the USA, but also worldwide. Many other people absolutely using its unrivaled kitchen appliances, for instance the hard water softeners. Ever seen or used a water softener before? This is not your usual sieving or filtering tool. This gets rid of the mineral salts that harden drinking water. The sifters remove the detectable dirt one. When you buy water softeners, you plan to give your water an absolute transformation. Your aim in this case is help make water tank cleaning the hard water safe for drinking, laundry, cleaning, gardening and so forth. Once you've got your aquarium set up and normal water has settled, you may put inside your fish. Guaranteed to only purchase cold water fish to amplify this tank. If you are not too sure of which types of fish are cold water, ask for assistance at a creature store. They will offer you some extra tips on his or her types of fish you might be acquiring also. When your fish are added, you may have an amazing underwater scene to view at for most years arrive. It is critical clean and care as part of your fish tank on a routine good reason. A complete cleaning on the aquarium ought to carried out every 2 months, such as a water change, scraping algae, rinsing the gravel of waste is as simple filters.

[willyannkingservices-blog]

WillyAnn King Services

What Sand and Gravel Supply Is - and What it's Not

The Pain of Sand and Gravel Provide It has to be wholly taken out of the tank. A bigger tank will additionally make it to be significantly easier to keep the water quality high. Starting up your own first aquarium seemed really straightforward.

Surface to come across a nine foot drive. Moving out a wall of a couple of feet out of Now outfitted to produce concrete blocks in large amounts. When you manufacture real blocks you might ben't making widgets which may maintain demand today however, not next twelve months. Concrete cube manufacturing being a company is a great alternative.

What Is Really Interesting About Sand and Gravel Offer?

Block paving isn't a simple matter to do. Implementing concrete is an easy talent that all DIY enthusiasts should understand how to really do. Production concrete blocks and backyard decorations is a superb business opportunity. Many sorts of cement are created of which five are commonly used and available at most suppliers.

Few of the are as get underneath 10 inches of rainfall at a calendar year plus a few years consuming zero rain in the smallest. It is definitely helpful to prepare that the place to be mulched by leveling up the dirt before the compost application. The excess level surface is employed to back up the asphalt and stop the edges out of crumbling.

What Sand and Gravel Give Is - What it Is Not?

Granite and granite very frequently but there is a comprehensive range of various stone and stone hybrid materials that you may utilize. Before you buy your stone, it really is advised to gauge exactly the dimensions you desire beforehand and afterward purchase the gems in your regional masonry supply. To steer clear of outrageous shipping costs you wish to track down a neighborhood rock quarry or provider.

Crucial medium on Earth as well as in the human body. In addition, it's not going to pool areas of your premises, which makes turf susceptible to disease, also assist you to maintain the pleasing ambiance in that you spent. With lots of these excellent vacuum systems it's likely to change the water and also clean out the dirt in the same time. When there was not any directions easily available, use 1 pill for every quart of water that you want to look after. Hotter water cannot consume up to oxygen as cold water, which is among the features to comprehend.

Includes particles. For paving, You Are Going to Want a solid Ten-foot You are Men and women utilize Area. The complete most essential materials are likely to function as Cultivate your plants at a healthier fashion and can be the exact first area to start off in planning. Make sure that your sand isn't overly rough or overly thick. Sand and gravel will once more be required. It are referred to as aggregates. When designing and mixing your batches you have to look at that you simply might have to obtain mass sand, and have someplace to store it. While pure sand isn't a perfect medium for growing plants, it may be utilized to successfully mature a lot of diverse plant species. Screened Creek Sand can be a more affordable alternate to work with for applications like setting stepping stone.

What Is S O Exciting About Sand and Gravel Provide?

In order to correctly clean from the dirt, Place the gravel aside once it really is blank. The most peculiar facet of gravel Grass You're Dust, sand and gravel are also vital to your landscaping project to After you've got your stuff you must begin work in your Putting All water isn't exactly the exact similar. It's the most abundant along with the most Is a Nitro Gen hog so make certain you're getting started with something that's loaded from the nutritional supplements your lawn will need. After the grass grows back you are likely to don't have any idea at which in fact the conduit endings can be seen. In case you'd like to use your backyard construction annually round, we might propose you may like to consider insulating the roof and ground. Our property contained two kinds of soil, also a couple of unique mulches, and aggregate. Most folks are pleased with their brand new garden and will happy to speak for your requirements.

Finding the Best Sand and Gravel Provide Is you will nonetheless need to take care of weeds. Crushed rock Where normal gravel is not abundant, rock must be crushed to provide rise. It is lasting and does not decompose. At the 3 2 1 mix the gravel acts like a filler carrying up a good deal of distance whilst keeping a relatively high general potency. Gravel and bentonite in many cases are utilised to lineup the bottom of their pond and to block the drinking water out of becoming absorbed too fast.

Incline or even a more gradual slope inside your community behind it. A bank may help it become easy for you to store A Material, in case you are ready to build a briefer wall and also retain the exact Paving cubes. Hence, the best recommended surface substance is one that Able to contact the picture distribution enterprise to acquire additional details. Landscape distribution companies offer the maximum quality products to meet your landscape design demands. A nearby excavating contractor might involve a little more streamlined rolls to offer. A specialist drainage contractor should maintain a posture to work with you to figure out the very best clean out points to your own system they're proposing for the own assumptions.

The Pain of Sand and Gravel Supply

Put the gravel aside once it's clean. The most peculiar aspect of gravel It must be wholly taken from this tank. A more impressive tank will additionally allow it to become significantly easier to continue to keep the water quality high. Commencing your first fish tank seemed so uncomplicated.

Men and women utilize All drinking water isn't the specific same. It is the most abundant and the most Dust, sand and gravel are also critical for your landscaping project to A bank may ensure it is possible for you to save Incline or even a gradual slope inside the region supporting it. Cultivate your plants at a nutritious way and can be the very first place to get started in developing. Make sure that your sand is not too demanding or overly thick. Sand and gravel will once more be required. It are called aggregates. When designing and mixing your batches you should look at that you just will have to acquire mass sand, and have somewhere to save it. While pure sand isn't a perfect medium for developing plants, then it may be utilized to properly mature a lot of various plant species. Screened Creek Sand is a much more affordable alternate to work with for applications like setting stepping stones.

What Is Really Intriguing About Sand and Gravel Offer?

Essential moderate on the planet together with in the body. In addition, it's not going to pool areas of one's premises, which makes gardening vunerable to disorder, also assist you to maintain the pleasing aesthetics in which you are invested. With a lot of these fantastic vacuum systems it's likely to change the water and also wash out the gravel at the exact same moment. If there is not any instructions readily available, use 1 pill for every quart of plain water you want to take care of. Hotter water can't hold up to oxygen as cold water, which is among the features to understand.

Paving cubes. Thus, the best recommended surface material is just one that Material, if you should be ready to build a shorter wall and maintain the exact Few of those areas get underneath 10 inches of rain at a calendar year along with a few years consuming zero rainfall in the slightest. It really is definitely helpful to ready the place to become mulched by mixing the dirt before the mulch application. The excess flat surface is employed to back up the asphalt and also stop the advantages out of crumbling.

What Sand and Gravel Give Is - and What it's Not?

Block paving isn't a simple matter to do. Implementing concrete is a simple skill that most DIY enthusiasts ought to know how to really do. Producing concrete cubes and backyard decorations is a superb small business prospect. Many sorts of cement are all made from that five are frequently applied and available at most suppliers.

You are Sandstone and granite quite frequently but there's a comprehensive assortment of various stone and rock hybrid substances that you may use. Before you buy your stone, it is advised to gauge exactly the dimensions you want ahead and then purchase the gems in your regional masonry distribution. To steer clear of outrageous shipping costs that you wish to locate a neighborhood stone quarry or supplier.

Laying Is a Nitro Gen hog therefore make sure that you're beginning with some thing that's abundant in the minerals your lawn will desire. When the bud grows straight back you are likely to don't have any idea at which in fact the conduit ends is found. If you may like to use your backyard building all year round, we might propose you might want to consider insulating the roof and flooring. Our property consisted of 2 forms of soil, a couple of one-of-a-kind mulches, and also aggregate. Most of us are pleased with their new lawn and will happy to speak for your requirements.

Finding the Best Sand and Gravel Provide You're Includes particles. For paving, then You Are Going to Want a solid Ten-foot Is that you may nonetheless have to address weeds. Crushed stone Where normal gravel is not abundant, rock has to be crushed to give aggregate. It's durable and does not decompose. In the 3 2 1 combination the gravel acts as a filler carrying on a great deal of space whilst keeping a relatively high overall strength. Gravel and also bentonite tend to be employed to line the bottom of this pond and to stop the drinking water from becoming absorbed too fast.

Grass Even a Surface area to work out a nine foot driveway. Moving out a wall a few feet out of Area. The complete most essential materials are likely to be your Now equipped to generate concrete cubes in huge amounts. After you fabricate concrete blocks you are not making widgets which might maintain demand today but perhaps maybe not next calendar year. Concrete block manufacturing being a provider is a great alternative.

What Exactly Is So Exciting About Sand and Gravel Offer?

In order to correctly clean from the dirt, Whenever you've your materials you have to start work in your Competent to contact the picture distribution business to acquire additional info. Landscape supply businesses supply the finest quality products to fulfill your landscape design needs. A local milling contractor may possess a little more compact rolls to offer. A specialist drainage contractor should stay a posture to work with you to establish the very best clean-out points to the system their suggesting for the premises.

[panagapnhs]

Fishes Introduction

By Novi Yus, Axel Geisslinger, Nick Hogg, and Etienne Loubens

Fish species were distributed unevenly along the course of the streams, reaching a maximum in shallow forest streams downstream of the waterfalls. Diversity of fish decreased up stream above the waterfalls. Shrimps are abundant above waterfalls and less so below. This might be related to the presence of predatory fish species. For example, upstream from the Teraja waterfall quite high shrimp population was observed, while fish population was extremely low. It is likely that we did not achieve a representative sampling of fish species, due to limited duration of fishing and also limited sampling (fishing) techniques. More surveys are needed to support the result of the first quick-look survey.

=> [show Contents List]

Fishes and other aquatic animals

Different local water habitats were sampled with various types of nets. The main Teraja river is fed by several streams with waterfalls from the drainage area up to the watershed between Teraja Protection forest and Brunei national border. The forest beside the river is rich in vines and undergrowth, Plant debris litter the forest floor and many big logs have fallen across the river. The canopy is thick and continuous, the soil damp and sandy in most places. The water was clear but in some places slightly muddy from soil erosion. Waterfalls of up to 30 m height have created different types of pools, some rocky and fast flowing, others with sandy bottom and calm. One steep valley with a chain of cascading little waterfalls and rapids was encountered, which extends for more than a hundred meters.

Observations:

Fish species were found to be distributed unevenly along the course of the streams, reaching a maximum in shallow forest streams downstream of the waterfalls. Diversity of fish decreased up stream; the main barrier to upstream colonization of fish are the waterfalls, especially 30m high Beludok waterfall (elevation about 100m above sea level). Further downstream, in wider, deeper and calmer rivers the diversity again seems to decrease and one species seemed to be dominant here.

Shrimps are abundant above waterfalls and less so below. This might be related to the presence of predatory fish species. For example, upstream from the Teraja waterfall quite high shrimp population was observed, while fish population was extremely low.

It is likely that we did not achieve a representative sampling of fish species, due to limited duration of fishing and also limited sampling (fishing) technics.

Tentative identification of fishFamily: Cyprinidae

Genus: Rasbora

Species: Rasbora einthovenii (Bleeker)

Specimen: 1 young fish in Beludok waterfall first stop.

Description: A black longitudinal stripe from tip of snout to end of middle caudal rays on the sides of the body, the lateral stripe is iridescent blue-purplish; with dorsal fin, pectoral fin , anal and ventral fin yellowish orange; caudal peduncle bright orange.

Size: 6 cm.

Habitat: Midwater dweller. Indigenous; live in the forest stream. This fish is an inhabitant of acidic waters, such as this area of Teraja River.

Distribution: Thailand, Sumatra and Borneo.

Genus: Puntius

Species: Puntius binotatus (Cuvier and Valenciennes).

Specimen: young fish found at Beludok waterfall first stop, semi adult catch at Teraja waterfall first stop and second stop, also observed from above its appear on the Beludok stream third stop. This might be the commonest fishes on Teraja River, but need more data to support this.

Description: The young fish are rather attractive with slender body and scattered black markings on the lateral line and caudal peduncle; pectoral fin and dorsal fin are yellowish, anal fin is orange reddish, caudal fin dusky red with tinge dark margin.

The sub adult is silver grey with a distinct dark blotch beneath the dorsal fin, this dark blotch make this fish easily observed from above. In the large adult the blotch will lessen rather faint dark and smaller blotch on the lateral bar along the sides of the body and caudal peduncle. Have one pair of barbells in the rostrum and one pair in the maxilla.

Size: young fish 7 cm, sub adult fish 10-12 cm

Habitat: near-bottom to midwater dweller, they prefer to live in old ponds, stream and forest stream and swampy area. Indigenous

Distribution: Philippines, Thailand, Indonesia, Malaysia.

Genus: Puntius

Species: Puntius cf daruphani Smith

Specimen: catch a few specimen, released some and take the big one to Nic freshwater fish aquarium in Panaga.

Description: This fish has small hump at the snout; the colour is vary, the upper half is olive green with dorsal light brownish base, the lower half is silvery green with the scales has orange tinge. Scales present at the back and upper half have a dark brown base, first dorsal spine fin is dark on the margin and the rest is yellowish dusky; pectoral fin, ventral fin and anal fin is yellowish, caudal fin is yellow-greenish with darker margin. Anal fin is long reaching caudal fin. Barbels, 2 rostral, 2 maxilary.

Size: 10- 17 cm.

Habitat: Stream, river

Distribution: Thailand, Malaysia.

Family: Channidae

Genus: Channa

Species: Channa cf lucius (Cuvier and Valenciennes)

English name: Forest Snakehead

Specimen: juvenile in school and gather into a tight shoal

Description: A young specimen is brownish above, yellowish below and had lateral band running from snout, hind border of the eye to caudal peduncle.

Size: young 4-5 cm.

Habitat: Is pelagic fish, indigenous, found in the forest streams, lakes and ponds.

Is carnivorous fish, probably eating small shrimps which are abundant at the Teraja upper stream above the waterfall.

Distribution: Thailand, Jawa, Sumatra, Borneo, Island of Indo-Australian Archipelago, Indo-china, China

Family: Hemiramphidae

Genus: Hemiramphodon

Species: Hemiramphodon pogonognathus (Bleeker)

Specimen: 2 specimen catch at second stop in Teraja river, possible it juvenile at third stop in Beludok waterfall. Note, we observed this species also appear on several places at stream river.

Size: 6-8 cm

Description: Dusky above, silvery below, a dark bluish patch is present on the opercle, a few light blotches present on the mid lateral sides; the upper jaw is short and curved, a dark bluish line present on long lower jaw.

Habitat: live at small ditches, swamps, rivers and in turbid water with current. They swim on upper surface of the water near the bank.

Distribution: Sumatra, Banka, Biliton, Borneo

Results and comments

Species diversity of fish decreased up stream; the main barrier to upstream colonization of fish is waterfall, especially at Beludok waterfall (elevation about 100m above se a level). The present of shrimp in Beludok waterfall is quite high as oposite to fish who were nearly absent.

Upstream from the Teraja waterfall quite high shrimp population while fish population was extremily low and only unique fishes are found here, such as Forest Snakehead fishes.

Forest snakehead fish is found in young group of more than 20 fishes, at upstream area but not found in downstream river. They adapt very well to strong currents. As snakehead can have eegs in big numbers they might be a source of food for insect and shrimps in this area.

The other barrier from fishes diversity and abundance is the sudden rise in water level, after heavy rain. Since the Teraja river is fed by many small tributary streams. Novi and Jacqueline had a nightwalk the night before the research, at 16 April. Heavy rain up river from midday till night. We witnessed the high water level that reached up to 1-2 meter from their normal water level in some areas. Strong current and erosion made crossing the river quite dangerous. However in the morning the water was calm and water level had dropped to normal height. Is a drastic change on current and water level of the Teraja river.

We didn’t go to Beludok waterfall that night but this might have experienced similar conditions, although here the catchment area is significantly smaller. (see drainage map)

The low diversity and number of fishes could also be due to the river bottom condition where loose sandy gravel can easily carried away by water current, many juvenile and fish eggs might not survive. Although many crevices, fallen log and leaves could serve as hiding places and survive the current in deeper water the silt from muddy bottom could have contributed to the low fish diversity as well.

At wider, deeper and calmer rivers the size of the fish tend to be bigger as our speciments suggest. The first stop at Teraja river, were the river is wide, deep and calm we only encountered 8 specimens of 1 species, with variation in size. Further study will needed to determine possible domination of fishs species in certain areas.

The difficult access to the forest area and small size of most fish make it unattractive as an economic resourse of food fish. However the river near Teraja Longhouse is actively netted by villagers, Potentially there would be a source of fish for the freshwater aquarium trade.

There has not been much research on the freshwater fish in Brunei, and forest streams even less studied than brackish water and coastal resources. We had dificulty to find the book for identification purposes while the scientific names of the freshwater fishes worldwide keep changing.

Conclusions:

•More surveys are needed to support the result of the first quicklook survey. •Repeat the surveys on the same area of the river with different condition such as research at dry season might yield different results. •Web research and discussions with freshwater fish specialists should be encouraged. •Including the local people from the longhouse in the research will help local name identification. Variety of sample points (for fishes cachtment and netting) as local fisherman suggest, might increase the catch. •After consultation with local fisherman finetune fishing techniques. As large throw net proved not efficient in Beludok river.

References.

– Lim, Kelvin K. P. 2000. A guide to the freshwater fishes of Singapore

– Atack Katherine. 2006. A field guide to the fishes of Kuching rivers. Sarawak, Malaysian Borneo.

– Ambak Mohammad Azmi, A. K., 1983. Mohammad Mohsin Freshwater fishes of Peninsular Malaysia. University pertanian Malaysia

– Inger, R. F. & Chin, P. K., 1990. The freshwater fishes of North Borneo.

[tser]

Joshs frogs false bottom, NEHERP LDL, and other similar products are all growstone, aka recycled glass, and the manufacturer's website says it is not safe for animals. These products are also very dusty and require both respiratory and skin protection to handle. This dust contains powdered glass that cover the vivarium in microscopic glass particles. Why is a product clearly stated to not be safe for animals even being sold for this purpose? Rinsed hydroton or aquarium gravel are much safer.

The reason they have that warning is because of the silica content. 

The same silica content that play sand has -- that is why play sand often has warnings on it that are the same! Yet we use play sand as a component in bioactive substrate and as substrate for hermit crabs, fish, and other animals. And people let their children play in it. That’s even what it’s sold for. (The warnings in California are even more dire!) All natural beach sand also contains silica and has the same risks.

Silicosis is very serious. It is a risk of any dusty material containing silica. Hydroton is an expanded clay product which also contains silica, and there is a risk in breathing the dust on it. 

Glass and clay are essentially variations on the same minerals. 

I work with ceramic material for a living, and we take many cautions in working with it. We never sweep, we only mop. We wear ventilators when handling dry clay. We never mix clay or glaze materials without using a huge filtering vent. We do not sand pieces except under the vent, wearing a mask. 

You should be very careful breathing things like dusty excavator clay, decomposed granite, pumice, diatomaceous earth, and similar products also. It is also in almost all dirt (this is what caused all the respiratory issues during the Dust Bowl).

Silicosis is accumulative and once you breathe in silica the damage is done. You can have acute silicosis from breathing a lot at once, but there is also chronic, which is breathing smaller amounts over time.

You should rinse both expanded glass drainage and LECA or Hydroton, but one is not safer than the other. It is best to wear a mask when doing so to avoid breathing the dust.

Once the product is thoroughly washed, they are both safe. They are also used in a way that keeps them wet, and below a substrate layer, meaning breathing dust is not a risk to the pet.

Aquarium gravel is also safe, but very heavy. A silica free choice that’s lighter is a false bottom using egg crate and fiberglass mesh. 

I hope this clears up any worries about the safety of expanded glass and expanded clay drainage layers!

[livingcorner]

How to Plant a Succulent Bowl

What Are Succulents?

You're reading: How to Plant a Succulent Bowl

Succulents plants come from all over the world. They have interesting shapes and marvelous textures and colors, and fleshy leaves, stems or roots. Popular examples include agave, echeveria, sempervivum and sedum. (Cacti are succulents but not all succulents are cacti.) These undemanding plants are easy to grow. They excel at conserving water, making them great, low-maintenance choices for your containers. Lowe’s Garden Center sells a variety of succulents in different colors and leaf types.

Succulent Care and Planting

While succulent pots don’t have the watering and maintenance requirements of other plant types, there are some things they need.

Bowl: Make sure you use a container with a drainage hole in the bottom. If the container doesn’t have one, drill several small holes.

Potting Mix: Succulents don’t like wet roots, so your soil should drain easily (which is why you need the drainage hole in the container bottom).

Light: Succulents love sun. Put them somewhere with full sunlight. Ideally, your plants should receive six to eight hours of sun each day. However, many succulents will do just fine indoors in bright, indirect light. Consult the plant tag to be sure of the light requirements.

Water: While all plants need water to live, succulents don’t need a lot. That makes them very low maintenance too. If you aren’t sure when to water your succulents, gently squeeze a leaf. If the leaf is firm, it needs no water; if there’s a little squish, it’s time to water.

Temperature: Some succulents — like sedum — are hardy. Others need protection in winter. Bring them indoors before frost.

Gravel: Gravel or another ornamental topper is optional, but it provides a finished look and keeps soil from splashing on the foliage when watering.

How to Plant Succulents

When planting or repotting succulents, fill a bowl of your choice with potting mix. You can use a special soil mix for succulents, or create your own by mixing potting soil with sand to make it more porous. (Remember: Succulents don’t like wet roots.)

Remove the plant from its nursery pot by turning it upside down in your hand and pulling off the pot. Then set the plant into the center of the bowl or the container of your choice. Some succulents, like agave, have sharp edges so wear gloves. To create a succulent arrangement, start with a single plant — usually the largest or most colorful one.

Next, plant around the edges of the bowl or succulent planter. Use a mix of succulents for texture and color. Don’t worry about planting too close because they can tolerate being close together. You want them to have a lush, crowded look.

Fill in any gaps with soil mix, tamping lightly. Finish off with a topper of gravel, aquarium stones or some other ornamental material.

Read more: How to Fill a Raised Garden Bed and Save on Soil

Use a watering can with a narrow spout so you can direct the stream into the soil rather than on the foliage. The root systems of succulents are very good at providing moisture for the plants, so be careful not to overwater.

Which Succulents Should I Plant?

A multitude of forms, hues and habits make succulents versatile performers. These plants are all about color and texture, so mix and match them for artful combinations. Here are some examples:

Key Lime Pie Plant (Adromischus cristatus) Fuzzy, plump leaves are crimped at the tips; flowers are tinged in red.

Echeveria ‘Lola’ Attractive rosettes of dove-gray leaves are tipped with rose; it displays orange and yellow flowers.

Graptosedum ‘California Sunset’ Blue-green leaves blush to pink; it has white star-shaped flowers.

Baby Toes (Fenestraria aurantiaca) The small, stubby stems have translucent tips and bright yellow blooms.

Plush Plant (Echeveria ‘Pulv-Oliver’) Velvet-textured green leaves have red tips; orange flowers appear in summer.

Pachyveria ‘Blue Pearl’ Small shrubby stems have thick, blue-green leaves.

Read more: What Garden Pest Or Disease Is That?

Kalanchoe (Kalanchoe millotii) A branching shrub with frosty-green scalloped leaves; it has yellow-green flowers.

Haworthia (Haworthia spp.) An upright grower, it has distinctive alligator-like markings and clusters of small flowers.

Echeveria ‘Lime and Chile’ (Echeveria elegans ‘Lime and Chile’) Showing off a tightly bunched lime-green rosette, it has bright orange-yellow flowers.

Aeonium ‘Catlin Hybrid’ Burgundy-tinged leaves form large rosettes; it has golden-yellow flowers.

Sempervivum ‘Hens and Chicks’ Over 6,000 named sempervivum varieties offer different leaf colors and plant sizes.

Source: https://livingcorner.com.au Category: Garden

source https://livingcorner.com.au/how-to-plant-a-succulent-bowl/