#am I posting this from inside st marks cathedral in Venice?

[sexynetra]

Six(ish) Sentence Sunday

Hi besties I’m in Italy for a choir tour so I have not had much time to write but here’s a snippet from the flight over 💕

~~~~~~

They stared at each other for a moment, and Marcia felt that same charged energy running through her again, almost electric. Anetra broke her gaze first, moving closer until they were practically nose to nose. “Here, I’ll hold it for you, do all the work. Just… breathe in when I tell you. A small breath.” She raised an eyebrow and Marcia gave a nod and a two-fingered salute.

“Got it. Small breath in, hold it, blow it out. How hard can it be? It’s not rocket science,” Marcia chirped out, trying to keep an air of false bravado. She needed to keep up a visage of confidence, fake it until she made it.

Anetra nodded in agreement. “Not rocket science,” she echoed, one hand carefully coming to rest on Marcia’s chin to turn her head slightly before placing the smooth glass against her lips. “Purse your lips over the small hole — yeah, just like that. Perfect. You’re doing great,” her murmured praises continued and Marcia could feel her cheeks burning and something warm and fuzzy settling deep in her chest. She wanted to do well, to get Anetra to keep complimenting her, to keep speaking to her in that soft sacred tone that made her feel like the only other person in the world.

[itsachels]

Italy; pt. 2

Venice, Florence, & Rome

I have to open my heart up a bit before I post. Midway through writing this, I got hit with the most overwhelming feeling of “Who on earth wants to read all of this?” That’s part of the struggle with writing. I know travel stories are usually a lot more fun for the traveler to tell than it is for the audience to listen to. That’s why it’s so fun for me to write this, because I don’t do much “story telling” after trips for fear of boring people. I can see it on their faces and it’s a little hurtful but that’s okay. I’ve been in their place enough times to not take it personally. So anyways, this is my first opportunity to tell about Italy from front to back. To be frank, no one has to read this. A big part of keeping confidence with this blog is reminding myself that this is all for me, not to please an “audience”. But it’s hard, you know? I always want some kind of approval, even if it’s never spoken…it hurts more than it should, to think someone might read my stuff and think it’s “stupid” or “pointless”. It’s all very dear to my heart so I just want others to appreciate it the way I do. If you do choose to read this…thank you! You are so appreciated, and I hope it inspires you!

Venezia

It has been so hard getting around to typing this story out. My baby is at such a clingy stage right now, which makes it hard to sit down and do this. Normally during his naps, I get housework done, but today I’m just going to ignore the mountain of dirty dishes so I can finally write. If you haven’t read Part 1, you can find it here.

On our last day in the Puglia region of Italy, we meant to go to Alberobello, but there was major confusion with the buses. Sometimes transportation was tricky, since it was all so unfamiliar. At home, if I want to go somewhere, I just jump in my car. I don’t have to worry about reading bus schedules, let alone reading them in a different language. So that left us stranded in Bari with nothing to do. We eventually ended up on a bench outside of McDonald’s, playing Sudoku and listening to music.

When it was finally time to hop on the train to Venice, we had a 7-hour train ride ahead of us. We didn’t get to there until 10 pm, so finding our air b&b was tricky. We eventually found it down a creepy dark alley (my mom’s heart rate probably just quickened). It was a studio apartment with barely any room to walk, incredibly low ceilings, and a broken shower. But it had windows that opened up to the canal and that was honestly all I wanted. We paid $88 a night which is dirt cheap to stay on the canal in Venice. It’s senseless to splurge on hotel rooms, in my opinion, when you’re only sleeping there. The more you spend, the more pressure you feel to stay and get your money’s worth rather than going out to explore the city.

We had one of our few “American” breakfasts the next morning. I say that because breakfast in Italy usually means a pastry with a cappuccino or juice. It’s hard to find places that’ll serve you much more than that. It was delicious, and this cute little café is where I had my first real Italian espresso experience. And you can bet it was my last.

We found our way to St. Mark’s square and basilica and I couldn’t stare at that church long enough! The exterior was amazing. We opted out of Doges Palace because it was expensive. I think its important to be able to let yourself miss out on things…just because it’s on most people’s itinerary, doesn’t mean it has to be on yours. Save the time and money for things you just can’t leave without experiencing. We spent our extra time that day sitting on the edge of a canal, watching gondolas pass by and soaking in the sunshine.

We stumbled into the Galleria dell’ Accademia. It wasn’t originally part of our itinerary (we barely had one to begin with), but we saw a sign saying Leonardo DaVinci’s art was on display, including “Vitruvian Man”. Alex was so excited to see it, which made me enjoy it even more.

One regret I have is not noting the names of some restaurants we liked. Like, I still daydream about the paninis and peach bellini we had that day. Anyways, around that area we saw the Bridge of Sighs. In case you don’t know the backstory, it was the bridge prisoners were led across on the way towards their execution. The little gated windows gifted them with one last view of Venice.

After some souvenir shopping on the Rialto bridge, we napped back at the room. Not to be dramatic, but I almost couldn’t walk anymore. That was followed up with dinner at a cute little restaurant that reminded me of the Lady & the Tramp’s spaghetti & meatballs scene. We pigeon-watched in a small plaza afterwards, listening to the water flow down the canal and talking until sundown. It was pretty romantic, if I do say so myself. If I had to describe Venice in one word, it’d be that: romantic.

Thus, ended our one day there. I wish we had more time. We ate cereal and yogurt in our room the next morning, dropped the key in the box, and rode the vaporetto back to the train station. By afternoon, we would be in Alex’s #1 bucket list city: Florence.

Firenze

When I look back on Florence I mainly think of gelato, drizzling rain, ceilings covered in intricate and vivid paintings, and of course the Renaissance architecture (I’m looking at you, Maria del Fiore).

Our hotel (Hotel Lorena) in Florence was so sweet. It was basically a hole in the wall; we almost didn’t see the entrance when we were walking past. It was owned by the nicest man with the strongest Italian accent I’ve ever heard. His mother was his assistant🥺, and she while she showed me to our room she asked about my pregnancy and said a baby boy is one of the greatest gifts I will ever receive. I wish I could tell her how right she was!

Okay. I have to talk about the Medici Chapelle Ristorante. I will never forget that meal, in all my days. The best part was the cocoli…fried dough drizzled in honey…a Tuscan beignet. That one in a lifetime meal was followed by gelato, on the steps of the Medici chapel, before turning in for the night.

The next day was big because we were setting out for the Duomo. It was only a couple of blocks away from Hotel Lorena; we had a view of it from our bedroom window. It rained a good bit but we still had fun seeing the incredible exterior of the church and the inside, which was also beautiful. We were blessed to be able to attend mass there. Did you know that in 1601, lightning struck the copper sphere on top of the cathedral, and it smashed into the ground? You can not appreciate how far that ball fell until you’re standing in the building’s shadow. There’s a marble circle marking the spot where it landed.

The bell tower had an unforgettable view of the city and goes higher than the church’s dome, which is what people normally choose as their viewpoint. The stairway was so narrow, there were times I seriously wasn’t sure the crowd could get through. At least all the work was well worth the view.I am not ashamed of what we spent as Ditti Artigeniale the next morning because we were desperate for one of those “American” breakfasts I was talking about. It gave us plenty of energy for exploring Pitti Palace and all of its beautiful painted ceilings. Why don’t we decorate like that anymore???? In the backyard were the Boboli gardens, which were by far one of the prettiest sights I saw on our trip. A garden on a hill, in full bloom, with the Tuscan countryside for a backdrop? Yes, please.

No, we didn’t see the statue of David. Remember our conversation about where to put your money? We didn’t want to put it there. I just really didn’t want to spend $50 to see a statue I wasn’t very excited about. We settled for a free viewing of its replica, which happened to be near the Fountain of Neptune. If you stare at any chunk of concrete in Florence, let this fountain be it. It was breathtaking. I feel like this whole paragraph could be very offensive to an art connoisseur. Sorry!!! I’m sure David is very handsome and I am not comparing the fountain to a chunk of concrete.

Florence was a lot like Polignano a mare in the fact that we spent so much time walking around, stumbling into churches and shops and just trying to figure out where to eat next. We had a very slow pace on this trip and didn’t hesitate to stop by our hotel for a nap when we felt a yawn coming on. A nap in Italy is better than a nap at home! Our days were really simple and easy. No pressure, no running to “fit it all in”. It was unhurried strolling, easy conversation, and letting the day unravel however it wanted to.

Rome

A harsh contrast from that last paragraph: Rome was intense. My legs were bruised from all the walking. One evening I tried to wipe off what I though was bluish dirt (?) on my thighs, and when it wouldn’t give, I realized they were bruises! Not from bumping into anything but just from the stress of carrying a baby all over the city. And our b&b was just weird. People didn’t seem to understand “modesty” when walking out of the bathroom, our host was kind of a stick in the mud, and it was down a sketchy/dirty street. I know it sounds like I’m complaining, but I’m not. It was so cheap and steps away from the metro. It was also above a corner shop that sold delicious cappuccinos and pastries for only 2 euros, so that supplied our breakfast every day. We didn’t mind all the little annoyances and it just made for more memories. Believe me, Rome was beyond worth it.

We started with a free walking tour guided by a local college student. He did amazing; these tours are a good way to get your feet wet in a new city. It gives you a feel for the layout and your guide can share little things that you wouldn’t know otherwise. For example, in the Piazza del Popolo, we had sat under a big statue playing i-spy. We just thought it was a nice place to people-watch. As it turns out, we were sitting in the shadow of a 4000+ year old Egyptian obelisk. We never would’ve known! Our guide also took us to the Pantheon; Alex was so cute with how excited he was.

Before the tour, when we saw the Spanish steps (so beautiful in person), we went to the church at the very top. If you paid a euro or two, you could light a prayer candle. We lit one for Noah. It’s really special to me that he was on that trip with us, even though he was obviously still in the womb. Because we want to continue traveling as a family, it felt like the beginning of something exciting.

That was just day one…the rest of our Rome adventure included the Colosseum and surrounding areas, lots of people-watching in different piazzas, an interesting night in the Trastevere neighborhood, a fun little trip to the countryside to tour the Catacombs, and aaaall the glory of the Vatican. Rome deserves a longer piece, but I feel like I’ve exhausted myself sharing what I have so far. I’ll save it for a rainy day. Even then, though, I simply cannot tell all about Rome without writing a whole book. I wish I could share every funny story and mishap and surprise. You just have to see it for yourself.

And that is my story of Italy. If you’re debating a trip, go. It’s a gem you get to carry in your heart for a lifetime after. I hope reading this inspires some ideas!

[kynaswhereabouts]

Time travelling back to 19th Century Philippines at Las Casas Filipinas de Acuzar

“May mga bagay na maiiwan natin sa nakaraan pero hindi ibig sabihin na mababaon ang lahat sa limot”. – I Love You Since 1892

The Province of Baatan is one the most historical places in our country. Aside from being known for the significant historical events like the Death March and Battle of Bataan during World War II, Bataan has also transformed itself as a heritage and cultural hub because of Las Casas Filipinas de Acuzar which is a heritage resort located in Bagac, Bataan.  

For someone who loves history and architecture, this is a dream come true. I learned about this place from one of my professors in college. I was encouraged when we discussed it in class. I have dreamt of coming here since then. I can’t believe that the “someday” I promised myself finally came. ��Each heritage houses here were restored and preserved with pieces from its original structure that has kept its secrets alive through time. It is very surreal. Time travelling to 19th Century Philippines was made possible here because of the heritage conservation efforts of Mr. Jose “Gerry” Acuzar by rebuilding the Spanish Colonial Era Heritage Houses and turning it more than just a resort or tourism destination but also a place for learning history and appreciating our rich Filipino culture and heritage.

This place has also been a filming site of Heneral Luna, Goyo and Quezon’s Game which is why every corner reminded me of it. It was like walking into the film itself and being part of it. If there is a chance that they will be making the film adaptation of the Historical Fiction, I Love You Since 1892, I can imagine it happening here. This is a perfect setting.

We availed the walking heritage tour inclusive of access inside some of the heritage houses, tour guide, welcome drinks, cold towels and free raincoats if it is raining. I will be sharing some of the highlighted structures and heritage houses at the resort as well as some of the things I learned there.

CASA BINAN

Looks familiar? If you watched Heneral Luna, you will remember that this is the courtyard where Gen. Antonio Luna was betrayed and brutally killed in the film. Casa Binan is a replica of the house where Dona Teodora Alonzo, mother of Jose Rizal grew up and lived. You can also feel that a lot of tragic events happened here. After some time, it came to be known as Alberto Mansion. Its house materials and relics were transferred here to recreate the historic house in Laguna.

Each houses once have a small fenced space near the window where they can dry their plates after washing them. Also, they have ventanillas below, a window for more ventilation since electricity, electric fan and aircondition weren’t invented yet by then.

CASA MEXICO

Casa Mexico is a bahay na bato in Mexico, Pampanga. I don’t know why for some reasons, I was attracted to this house. This is my favorite among the ancestral houses at Las Casas. I love its architectural structure and design. According to the story, this house was totally destroyed. However, they were able to save some of its original materials from the junkshop and reconstructed it using old photographs as their guide for its reconstruction. Because of that, it is considered as the “phoenix rising from the ashes”.

CASA JAEN

Casa Jaen was built in 1901 by Hilarion Santiago. It is called the “White House” because it served as the residence of the first mayor of Jaen. Moreover, it bares the crown-like design called “acroterion” or crown callados which is a status symbol saying that the one who lives in the house is rich and prominent. Despite its grandeur, this house also witnessed a horrifying event. Jose Carlos, also a mayor lived in the house, was attacked. The house was strafted from the outside with the attempt for his assassination because of politics. He eventually surrendered by waving a white cloth. The house still stands with the evidences of the gunshots in the bullet holes that marked the horrifying event.

CASA UNISAN

Casa Unisan was owned by Antonio Maxino from Quezon Province whose entire family was murdered. Only the youngest daughter, Carmen was able to escape and survive with the help of their househelper by hiding her in a bayong for dirty laundry. Casa Unisan currently serves as a restaurant offering different cuisines.

With this story about Carmen and her family, I was reminded of the story of the Romanovs of Russia. The animated film “Anastasia” was inspired by the fall of the Romanov Dynasty. It was believed that only Anastasia Romanov and her grandmother survived with the help of a young boy working in the palace. Although debatable whether Anastasia survived, recent results from the investigation of historians has proven that she too died that night.

PASEO DE ESCOLTA

The Paseo de Escolta is a replica inspired from the old commercial structures of the old business district in Manila famed during the 1900s. Currently, it has souvenir stores on the ground floor while the upper floors served as a hotel for tourists.

CASA BYZANTINA

Casa Byzantina can be originally founds in Binondo, Manila. It is a typical structure of bahay na bato that is built to protect the people from earthquake. Its ground floor is built of stone and bricks while its upper storey are made of various Philippine hard wood. It was lease to tenants after World War II and also became the home to 50 families by 2009. It was later restored and transferred at Las Casas to become a luxurious heritage house accommodating more guests with butler service.

CASA LUNA

Casa Luna was built in 1850. It is named after the Luna Brothers, Antonio and Juan. It has also witnessed several significant points in our history. It became a venue for gatherings and headquarter of the United States America Forces in the Philippines of the group planning to capture Gen. Yamashita.

CASA QUIAPO

Casa Quiapo was also known as Casa Hidalgo. It was built in 1867 designed by first Philippine Architect Felix Arroyo. Before it became the first School of Fine Arts of the University of the Philippines, it is where prominent artists like Juan Luna and Felix Hidalgo used to train. The school also gave birth to brilliant artists like Fernando Amorsolo and Guillermo Tolentino. 

After some time, it was transferred to Padre Fausta St. where the building housed a bowling alley, abortion clinic, dormitory, and live sex shows. Las Casas have the building blessed to ward of the negativity because of its past. Currently, the building housed the exhibit of Bellas Artes Project.

CASA BALIUAG

Casa Baliuag was built in 1898. It is located near Baliuag Church and once served as the municipal hall of Baliuag in 1950s. It has an intricate highly floral motif evident in the wood carvings of the fascade. The lower part of the house became the waiting area for Bulakenos bound for Manila. Because many people stood in front of the houses while waiting for a ride, the owner decided to set up a photo studio and post office business.  

TRAMVIA

Before PNR, LRT and PNR, we have tramvias/ streetcar that is steam operated. This is the mode of transportation in various streets of Manila from the late 1800s- mid 1900s. It said that this was once the envy of Asia.

PLAZA DE CASTRO

I was taken by surprise when I saw it in the map and told my friends to see this plaza. I am not even sure if this the one since I suck at reading maps. But I am including this here. I didn’t know we have a plaza here. I feel so entitled and honor to have plaza named after our family. Hahaha joke!

SANTUARIO DE SAN JOSE

This is a replica of Santuario de San Jose, also known as the Balanga Cathedral.

PLAZA MAYOR DE TOBIAS

Of all the stories, I forgot about the explanation for this. It has three women holding different things. I forgot the symbolism in this statue. 

LOLA BASYANG

A homage for Lola Basyang’s timeless tales. Lola Basyang became an iconic image of a grandmother gathering her grandchildren for a bedtime story. Her stories became part of the rich local culture of storytelling that has fascinated generations of Filipinos. Lola Basyang is the pen name of Severino Reyes, founder and editor of Liwayway Magazine.

JONES BRIDGE  

Jones Bridge is just near Lola Basyang’s statue. The Jones bridge is connected to Hotel de Oriente and the other side of the resort with heritage houses. One fascinating detail in this bridge it is that it has statues below of mythical creatures in our Philippine Folklore like tikbalang, engkanto and shokoy.  

HOTEL DE ORIENTE

Hotel de Oriente was originally built in 1889 in Binondo, Manila near Binondo Church. It was considered the first premiere luxury hotel in the Philippines. Jose Rizal once stayed at the hotel after arriving from Hong Kong the moment he realizes it was already too late to go home to Calamba, Laguna. During that time, the hotel is also one of the establishments that has a telephone aside from the Malacanang Palace. When the hotel got destroyed at war, it was restored at Las Casas and became a convention center that can hold up to 1,000 people. It is also where the APEC Summit 2015 was held. This hotel holds so much history.

CASA LADRILLO

Casa Ladrillo is one of the heritage houses that perfectly captured the European architecture. Also one of my favorites. It serves as one of the resort’s vacation houses. It is said that it got its name from the Spanish term that translate to the word “bricks”.

LAMBINGAN BRIDGE

I am not that sure about this one. This is said to be the “lambingan bridge”. When I searched for this, this is what it was called. At the center is like an open well made of steel grills and a romantic place where you can make a wish of the love your hear desires.  

ESTERO DE BINONDO

This is the Estero de Binondo. If you will be availing the package for river cruise in a gondola, you’ll be passing by here. It feels like Venice.  

You’ll get to see the beautiful architecture highlighting the verandas. We often get confused with veranda and azotea/ terrace. The azotea is the balcony that can be usually found infront of the house. While verandas can be found at the back of the house.

LA PUESTA DEL SOL

Another one that looks familiar? In Quezon’s Game, this street was part of several scenes in the film. This is one of the most notable. In fact, most of the scenes were filmed here at Las Casas. I just really can’t help not to fangirl every time I pass by the structures that would remind me of it. Every corner became part of the historic film.  

FRONT BEACH

During summer and when the weather is good, there are inflatables at beach front. Unfortunately, the weather is not that good when we got there. There was a low pressure area so no inflatables. But during summer, it is one of the fun activities here at the resort.

I took photo of this arch instead. Arch of the Centuries? Will it bring me back to 1892? I am having I Love You Since 1892 feels again. This is what happens when you read the book before going to Las Casas. Hahaha

A MILLENNIAL WITH AN OLD SOUL

I grew up fascinated with history and architecture. In fact, it is what really urged me to travel to Las Casas. It became part of my bucket list. I was also encouraged by the historical biopic films like Heneral Luna, Goyo and Quezon’s Game. Just recently, I just read the Historical Fiction, “I Love You Since 1892”. I cannot help but remember scenes from the book and imagine it happening here. I feel like I am Carmela Isabella from the 21st Century who accidentally time traveled to 1892 to rewrite the story of Carmelita Montecarlos and Juanito Alfonso.  

NOSTALGIC

“Nostalgic. I think that is the best word to describe my experience and how I feel after visiting Las Casas Filipinas de Acuzar. It gives you this longing feeling for the memory you have there. Las Casas is more than a tourism destination or a resort. It is a place for looking back to the grandeur of architecture in 19th Century Philippines. The conservation efforts for each heritage houses has kept its stories and secrets alive after all this time. May we all learn from history and celebrate our rich Filipino culture evident in these structures. For someone who loves history and architecture, this place is a dream come true. I want to go back again someday for new learnings, experiences and memories to long for again. This wraps my Las Casas Story.” ��via Instagram @kyna_dc

[backroadblues]

May 28th, 2017 - Venice Italy

Wow! What a great day we had today. We managed to cram a lot into this busy day, but somehow we still managed to sleep in - sort of, we took a boat ride. Still managed to walk about 10 miles, and fit in a nap in the afternoon.

Our little apartment here in Venice is not the greatest. Venice is an expensive place to visit in Italy. We had set out targets to not spend more than $150/night / couple for our lodging. We had hoped that for a combined $300/night we would be able to find a grand Villa with windows that open up to the Grand Canal - this is what some good friends of ours (Connie and Ken) were able to do. But not for us. It just so happens that the weekend we are here in Venice happens to coincide with a major Holiday in nearby Switzerland and a lot of them like to come to Venice. We also find out that Sunday is the day of a large Regatta, where the citizens parade their restored boats. Also, there are 4 cruise ships in port each with 3000 to 4000 passengers. As a result the pickings were somewhat slim. We were able to find an apartment for rent through Air B&B. It is in a decent location just a short walk from St. Marks Square, but the apartment itself is pretty basic. Apparently, there is a company that has over 100 such apartments that they rent through Air B&B. So unfortunately for us we have no view of the Grand Canal. But we do have a view of the neighbors laundry out to dry. We can’t really complain because we spend relatively little time in the apartment.

On this day, I wake up at 5:30 AM after a mediocre night of sleep. The bed is reasonably soft but it is a bit lumpy. I decide to go into the living room to work on the Blog a bit at about 6:00 AM. I’m writing away, when Trent comes in unlocking the front door. He too woke up early and decided to go out for a walk and get some photos in the morning light. He gets some great shots of the empty canals and sidewalks of Venice. It is now about 7:00 am and Trent begins reading some of the prior blogs. He promptly falls asleep on the Sofa is is really sawing some logs, aka snoring. Elisa and Carolyn begin to roll out of bed by around 8:00am and take their showers. By the time we hit the streets and find a place to have some breakfast it is 9:40 AM. We find a very nice cafe attached to the Hotel Londre right on the main walkway leading to St Marks Square. It is pricey but we can get some eggs, bacon and sausage for breakfast. So we splurge.

By the time we are finishing up breakfast the streets are crowded with tourists. The Asian tourists (Japanese, Chinese and Korean) are the first to be out in their little herds. The follow their guides with their brightly colored parasols or tasseled batons that they can hold up high in the air. The flit from one object to another snapping up photos. With our breakfast finished, we decide we will hire a water taxi with an English speaking guide that can give us a boat tour. We go from one stand to another trying to bargain the price of the tour. On this day, the hawkers for the Murano boat tours to the glass factories are out in droves. On the weekends, the boat rides to Murano are “free”. We’ve seen it before and we can tell it will be very crowded there so we opt not to go to Murano, but it seems most of the available boats have been enlisted for the Murano Armada. Finally, Elisa is able to wrangle a deal with a man at one of the taxi stands. For 120 Euro we will get a 45 minute tour of the Grand Canal and several of the smaller canals and then make a loop around the major islands of Venice.

It is taking some time to arrange a taxi because it is so busy and most drivers are demanding more money. Finally we secure a boat. Simone (a young Venetian boat driver) invites us on board his classic motor cruiser. They have been using this model of boat as water taxi’s since the early 1960’s here in Venice. We discover that Simone’s English is a bit limited. So Elisa joins him up front and Trent, Carolyn and I are standing up in the back of the boat. Elisa quickly builds a great report with Simone and we learn that he and his girlfriend got married in Las Vegas in 2014. We become fast friends. Simone takes a slow cruise through the Grand Canal. With Elisa acting as translator, Simone points out the major hotels, museums, gardens and private homes. He shows us we’re George Clooney was married here in Vegas. He takes us under the Rialto bridge, past the train station and then into a series of smaller canals. We exit near the main port of Venice and he points out the large cruise ships that are there. Eventually we make our way out to the main channel where the water surrounding Venice is the deepest and the most choppy. Simone guides the boat skillfully and we manage to avoid the wakes of larger boats. By the time we return back to St Marks Square, where we started we see that we’ve spent nearly 50 minutes at sea. We learned so much from Simone. Venice was founded about 700BC as a series of villages on the 123 small islands. By 29BC the Romans conquer Venice along with Verona and many other nearby cities. With Roman conquest comes growth. We also learn that each of the 121 islands has its own church and the larger islands often have many churches. Consequently, there are over 221 churches spread throughout Venice. We also learn that the canals were constructed in a way that they could be blocked off and drained. They do this because the sea water is hard on the sea walls and the foundations of the buildings. Periodically, the canals must be drained so that they can be maintained. They even had to do this in ancient times. Each property owner must share in the expense of such maintenance. We also learned that there was a great flood in 1966 and the water level rose over 6 feet above the current gourd level. As a result a major dike and flood control project was startled in 1986. Like all things Italian, it is still underway and has not yet been completed. Consequently, Simone tells us that about 10 to 14 times per year, the tides will rise above ground level by 1 to 2 feet. I guess you have to consider that most of the cathedrals here in Italy took over 150 years to construct. So 30 years for a set of dikes may not be too bad. He says the Venetians take it in stride.

With our boat ride now complete, we decide that we will take a walk from St. Marks to the Rialto Bridge and over into the other main island of Venice. We take our time walking and we do a lot of window shopping along the way and take a lot photos of the sights. By now it is about 1:00 pm. So we decide we will walk back to our apartment, stopping at a Coop grocery store along the way to pick up breakfast for the morning. We then head back to the apartment. By not it is about 2:00 pm and we decide to go out and find a quick lunch. Elisa had seen a restaurant with gluten free pasta and pizza that we head for, but is is just a small bar with no real seating. We find a nice place to eat a little further down Cafe Ali D'Oro. We take an outdoor seat that is next to a smaller canal and we are able to watch the Gondola’s cruise by with their passengers. Elisa has the veal Marsala, Trent the veal with limone, Carolyn a pizza with prosciutto and mushrooms - her starter by the way was prosciutto and melon…if you look at the previous blogs you will read that Carolyn has had prosciutto practically every day since she has been here. We are beginning to think a major intervention is going to be needed. She is clearly hooked on the prosciutto as if it was crack. We’ll wait and see how she does when we head into Germany. With our lunch finished by around 3:15pm we decide to head back to the to relax a little. It has been very warm and humid today and we are feeling it. By 4:00 all of us have fallen asleep and we take about a 90 minute nap.

At around 6:00 PM we take a walk near the Arsenale district where we learn that in the 1100’s Venice had build the largest military industrial complex of its time. The Arsenale, was a major shipbuilding and arms building factory. It occupied over 110 acres or about 20% of the available land at that time. Inside the Arsenale, craftsmen would work in teams with each team building specific components for a boat. They were made to be interchangeable. Once all the parts were complete, teams could assemble a complete ship in one days time from those parts. This gave Venice a might naval capability at that time. Eventually, our walk brings us back down toward St. Marks Sqare. It is approaching 8:00 pm and we begin to think about dinner. We decide to honor Marco Polo since Venice was his home city, by having a Chinese meal. We find that the best Chinese restaurant in Venice is located near the Rialto bridge. We head over the the water bus station and purchase tickets so that we can cruise in the cool evening air over to that part of town. We are seated in the restaurant by 9:20pm. We are becoming true Venetian’s dining late in the evening. By the time we finish dinner and catch the water bus back to St marks it is going on 11:00pm. We are safe and in the apartment by 11:30pm.

We are all exhausted, but we must say farewell to Venice and Italy in the morning. Tomorrow, we will be heading into Germany with Garmisch-Partinkirschen as our destination. Everyone, hits the sack, but with the long afternoon nap I’m wide awake and working on the morning’s Blog posting.

So Good night everyone and more later.

Ciao!

[travelworldnetwork]

Mountain Val di Funes, some of the stupendous scenery Italy has to offer. Photo: Shutterstock

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On day one we are met at Milan airport by Frank Looze, the effervescent travel director we will get to know quite well in the next 10 days. With him, driving the coach is Tiziano, a native Italian whose ability to squeeze a 20-ton vehicle through some of the narrowest roads in northern Italy is, it turns out, second to none.

After a quick spruce-up at the hotel we meet our fellow travellers – American and Australian all – and coach into central Milan where local travel guide Marika is on hand to show us her city. It's only a whistle-stop tour but it's enough to give a good impression of the country's economic powerhouse.

We start at Sforza Castle – an impressive, moated fortification built in the 15th century and then renovated, enlarged, ravaged and rebuilt over the centuries – before moving on to the Piazza del Duomo and Milan Cathedral.

Lake Como, northern Italy. Photo: Massimo Fersini / EyeEm

There isn't the time to go inside but that's fine because the outside is amazing enough. It's the largest church in Italy, the third largest in the world and took almost 600 years to complete. Imagine starting a bespoke suit in 1940, finishing it in 2018 and incorporating every style and fashion along the way and you'll understand why it's an edifice that elicits both love and hatred.

John Ruskin, for instance, despised it while Henry James was grudgingly appreciative (though calling it "a supreme embodiment of vigorous effort" might seem like damning with faint praise).

Of course, Milan is also known for fashion and shopping so a diversion into the nearby Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II seems appropriate. This pedestrianised shopping mall is housed in a 19th-century arcade and is awash with all the luxury brands you can poke a platinum credit card at. There is even a sign spruiking a new shop selling 24-carat gold bed linen. Talk about God and Mammon.

DAY 2

"Andiamo!" is Frank's cry as we head towards the south Tyrolean town of Trento, via Verona, of Romeo and Juliet fame. On the way Frank takes the time to explain about the tour and the coming days as well as being a mine of information about our destinations and Europe in general. With just 23 of us on the tour, the coach is only about half full so there is plenty of room to spread out in a vehicle that's already pretty spacious, with plenty of leg room. There's Wi-Fi, too.

Far off to our left, explains Frank, are "the dolomites, ladies and gentlemen, one of the most beautiful parts of Italy and where we will be staying in a few days, at Cortina d'Ampezzo, which is such a beautiful name, like a poem".

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In Verona, which has sensibly banned large coaches from the city centre, we meet guide Roberto by the Roman amphitheatre (now used to stage operas) and follow him along the shopping precinct's marble pavements before entering the small courtyard that contains the balcony where Juliet supposedly romanced her Romeo.

We finish the day with a short pause in Trento, which Frank calls "a very nice provincial town, a hidden treasure". There's no guide here, just an hour or so to wander the streets and stop for a coffee or a swift Aperol spritz. Or two.

DAY 3

It was grey and rainy yesterday so it's quite something to wake up to bright blue skies in a hotel surrounded by snow-capped mountains. After breakfast we drive through fruit orchards and vineyards to Bolzano where the wonderfully animated and articulate Luciano guides us through this small but good-looking medieval town.

We take in the cathedral, the main square and the adjoining cobbled streets but the main attraction is the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology where the mortal remains of the Neolithic caveman Otzi are kept in a climate-controlled chamber.

Also known as Frozen Fritz, the mummified body of this caveman was found in the alps between Austria and Italy in 1991 after a glacier retreated. It's an unexpectedly fascinating exhibition that recreates Otzi's life and times, and culminates in an alarmingly lifelike and life-size re-creation of what he looked like.

In the afternoon we make haste towards Venice where we leave the coach on the mainland and take a flotilla of boats to our hotel in the old Cannaregio district, and an afternoon tour with another local guide.

DAY 4

Venice. La Serenissima. 'Nuff said. We visit a glass-blowing workshop, take a gondola ride, lunch regally on the colourful island of Burano and partake of an early evening snifter in St Mark's Square with Frank. This place is impossible and impossibly beautiful.

DAY 5

Back on the road again, we head to the mountains we've been looking at in the distance across the Venetian lagoon. We follow the Brenta canal out of the city and into the vineyard-covered foothills of the Dolomites. This is prosecco country and after a stop for lunch and a wine tasting at La Vigna di Sarah, an agriturismo B&B and wine shop, we make our way into the Dolomites proper.

Corrrrrtina d'Ampezzo (I am by this time rolling my Rs in conscious imitation of Frrrrrank, who would win gold if it were an Olympic sport) doesn't feel like Italy. We are so close to the Austrian border here that you can almost reach out and touch it. The architecture is pure Tyrolean, all pitched roofs on wooden chalets, and onion-domed churches.

It is, says Frrrank, a verrry popular winterrrr sporrrt rrrresorrrt.

DAY 6

Into the Dolomites proper where we visit a museum dedicated to the unknown war that raged here between Italy and Austria from 1914 to 1918 and then take a cable-car up to peaks above the Falzarego Pass where the views of the surrounding mountains are of the sort that make you take out your eyeballs, tap them on the nearest hard surface and ask yourself "are these working properly?"

DAY 7

Today we head for Como and Italy's Lake District. On the way, when we're not gaping at the stupendous scenery, Frank is both engaging and erudite. His patter takes in the history of World War I and II as well as Rembrandt, Caravaggio, Nietzsche, the Schengen agreement, the euro, Mussolini, Hitler, Puccini and Pavarotti, whose version of Nessun Dorma he pipes through the sound system.

Gradually, the mountains give way to the flatter landscape of the lakes and that night we split up into smaller groups and dine at a lakeside restaurant a short walk from our hotel, which in turn overlooks the lake.

DAY 8

There has been a storm overnight and the day dawns grey and drizzly, yesterday's sparkling lake now a flat gunmetal grey as we make our way up the west side of the lake to the small village of Bellagio.

The lakeside roads are narrow and winding, skirting precipitous inclines down which pretty ochre-roofed villages tumble like Escher drawings. Despite the rain it's quite spectacular.

At Tremezzo, a motorboat takes us across to Bellagio, which turns out to be a pretty, cobblestoned village with steep streets and more leather handbag shops than you'd think humanly possible or sustainable.

From Bellagio we drive back down Lake Como (no, we didn't see George Clooney) and on to Lake Maggiore further west. This is our last port of call, where we will spend two nights before heading home.

Dinner is on Fisherman's Island, at the simply named Ristorante Italia, where the specialities are pesce di lago and exquisite views across the lake as the sun sets.

DAY 9

It's a late start today, our last full day, and another boat ride, this time to the Isola Bella, a privately-owned island with its own palace, the Palazzo Borromeo. We have another guided tour – the palace is superb and the tour fascinating – before some free time to wander at will through the Italianate gardens where elegant white peacocks roam, like chooks with ideas above their station.

After another free afternoon we meet in the early evening to dine in Ristorante Cardini, on a hillside overlooking the lake. The food is excellent, the views amazing and the mood buoyant.

It's here I finally realise there's a touch of real magic about this tour. "Was Milan really only nine days ago?" asks a fellow traveller. "How is that possible?"

He has a point. Time travel? Dr Who? It's most certainly been a journey that, like the good doctor's Tardis, is bigger on the inside.

TRIP NOTES

Keith Austin travelled as a guest of Insight Vacations.

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traveller.com.au/italy

FLY

All of the major airlines operate frequent flights from Sydney and Melbourne to Milan's Malpensa airport.

TOUR

Insight Vacations operates throughout Europe and Britain. The 10-day Country Roads of Northern Italy guided holiday costs from $3595 per person twin share. Prices include some meals, airport transfers, an expert travel director as well as local specialists along the way. See insightvacations.com

from traveller.com.au