#Z 50mm f/1.8 S

[amselchen2]

late summer 2021 @ Meersburg, Germany by Marco Murata

[solhrafn]

I am sorry if this is an annoying question but do you have a guide or suggestions for picking out a first camera for someone who wants to take pictures of nature, specifically insects and other small things?

Hi! Not annoying at all!

You've got a few routes to this but all will require a macro lens.

In all cases I recommend buying second hand if you're in a country where it's safe to do so (any EU or NA country would be fine, for instance). You can use mpb.com or keh, it's usually less of a hassle than ebay or local marketplaces.

You could get something like a Nikon D7200 with a 105mm 2.8 AF-S G macro or a 60mm 2.8 G Macro. That's the cheaper option without compromising on quality. I recommend the 105 over the 60 because the 105 has stabilisation and for macro photography it is a must have.

A D7500 would be a bit better but frankly At that point I'd rather get a Z50 (or Zfc, see below) because then you'd be in a future proofed camera system (DSLRs — "D" cameras — are not produced anymore only mirrorless cameras of the Z system will come out) but then you'll need to get an FTZ adapter so you can still use the same, older lenses on the Z cameras like shown here:

If money isn't too much of a concern and decide to go for a Nikon Z camera you could get the native lenses (so you don't need an adapter). They'll perform a bit better too. Then it's either the NIKKOR Z MC 105mm f/2.8 VR S lens or the NIKKOR Z MC 50mm f/2.8 lens. Out of the two, once again, the 105 makes more sense (but is more expensive) because it is stabilized. Z cameras also have ibis so the 50mm would work too but you'd probably need to be closer to the subject you're photographing with this lens.

If you enjoy nice looks in a camera rather than a Z50 you can go for a ZfC. Its retro look is really a selling point but it would probably be harder to find second hand.

All of these recommendations have been of APS-C cameras, which makes sense for macro-photography (smaller sensor with 1:1 lens = subject is bigger on them).

If you've got an even bigger budget though, I would consider a second hand Z7, which is an imaging beast but that would be an other discussion entirely.

Other brands would have similar offers but bang-for-buck wise Nikon makes a lot of sense especially if you plan to grow into the hobby. Canon is unfortunately known for being a heartless cash-grabber. While Sony will work but not have a cheaper DSLR option. Fujifilm APS-C is unfortunately overhyped in my opinion, so Nikon makes more sense for this particular request.

Not that along side the 105 you'll want another lens to be able to do other things. For that either a 35mm 1.8 DX on the D7200 (or with FTZ on a Z camera) or a Z 28mm F2 on a Z camera will do.

Note that none of these are zoom lenses, they're prime fixed focal length lenses (aka prime lenses). They're more qualitative than zooms imho and the limitation of having one fixed field of view actually makes taking pictures more engaging as you have to move around with your feet to get the compositions you want.

[cyclophaea]

コバネアオイトトンボ Z8/NIKKOR Z 50mm f/1.8 S

[sheltiechicago]

vessel by m_laRs_k Via Flickr: .. in Hudson Yards .. enjoy :)

[maloubelou]

Kitayatsugatake by ubic from tokyo Via Flickr: 長野県　北八ヶ岳 Kitayatsugatake, Nagano Prefectuer Nikon Z6 + Nikkor Z 50mm f/1.8 S

[eyesforgrace]

女孩，芸竹 par 伊特諾 雷 Via Flickr : NIKON Zfc ＆NIKKOR Z 50mm f/1.8 S

[anather-tech-photo]

雲の中

[ryotokyo7]

ストライカーの覚悟

あんまり、「ああ、忙し、忙し」と忙しさを強調するのも、アレかもしれませんが苦笑、実際、この２週間は、なかなか忙しかったのだった…��ブログ更新はおろか、毎日のように見ていた他の方のブログも見られず。あと、数日でようやく落ち着きそう…。 そんな中、ワクチンの１回目を打ってきた。注射は大嫌いなタイプなので苦笑、事前にいろいろ報道されているので、若干、緊張しつつ向かったものの、拍子抜けするほど痛くなかった。「あれ？いつ打ったの？」くらいの感じ。副反応も「まあ、ちょっとだけ腕が痛いかなあ」と、全く気にならず。2回目を打って一週間経てばかなり効果が出るとのことなので、８月は少しは安心して過ごせるのかな…

[alban-robert-photographie]

Éveil bleu. 🎑 À l’heure où le monde dort encore, où les seuls être vivants croisés sont de magnifiques rencontres comme celle, ce matin là, d’un bouquetin. À l’heure où les premières lueurs orangées de l’aube apparaissent très hautes dans le ciel mais où les couleurs froides et bleutées dominent, ce lac comme décor exceptionnel pour attendre le lever du soleil. 🌄

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🔹 Lac Blanc - Valloire Galibier 🔹

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@nikonfr Nikon Z6 - NIKKOR Z 50mm f/1.8 S

𝖤𝗑𝗂𝖿𝗌: ISO 1250 - f/1.8 - 1/40 s

[madelinemaggie]

Nikon NIKKOR Z 50mm f/1.8 S

全新Z接環光學系統顛覆鏡頭觀感 AF 操控更寧靜精確 見微知著，顯著提升短片攝錄效能

詳看內容

Nikon尼康 型號NIKKOR Z 50MM F/1.8 S 定焦鏡頭分類超廣角及廣角定焦鏡頭 焦距50MM 光圈F1.8 視角FX格式 : 47°；DX 格式：31°30' 鏡片組9 組 12 片 光圈葉片數9 恆定光圈非 放大倍率- 對焦系統內部對焦系統 濾光鏡尺寸62mm 直徑 x 鏡長(mm)約 76 mm 最大直徑 x 86.5 mm 重量(g)約 415 g 保固期限12個月

Nikon NIKKOR Z 50mm f/1.8 S

相機鏡頭,相機,手機/相機/耳機/穿戴,Nikon NIKKOR Z 50mm f/1.8 S(公司貨),Yahoo奇摩購物中心

[amselchen2]

spring mood 4 @ walking path by Marco Murata

[ilove3conly]

Nikon NIKKOR Z 50mm f/1.8 S 全新Z接環光學系統顛覆鏡頭觀感 AF 操控更寧靜精確 見微知著，顯著提升短片攝錄效能

詳看內容

Nikon尼康 型號NIKKOR Z 50MM F/1.8 S 定焦鏡頭分類超廣角及廣角定焦鏡頭 焦距50MM 光圈F1.8 視角FX格式 : 47°；DX 格式：31°30' 鏡片組9 組 12 片 光圈葉片數9 恆定光圈非 放大倍率- 對焦系統內部對焦系統 濾光鏡尺寸62mm 直徑 x 鏡長(mm)約 76 mm 最大直徑 x 86.5 mm 重量(g)約 415 g 保固期限12個月

Nikon NIKKOR Z 50mm f/1.8 S

相機鏡頭,相機,手機/相機/耳機/穿戴,Nikon NIKKOR Z 50mm f/1.8 S(公司貨),Yahoo奇摩購物中心

[richardhlog]

Nikon D6 いいよねー。

[bomberqueen17]

“crop factor”

I am going to link to a nerdy B&H article that explains this far more thoroughly than it really needs explained, but because of a conversation i just started infodumping into @sonnetsandswingouts‘s mentions (sorry), I was inspired to go look this up.

This is about digital photography. This is about when you’re shopping for lenses. The focal distance on the lens tells you whether it’s a wide-angle or telephoto lens or what, but the numbers are not absolute; lenses are designed for different cameras, and the effective focal distance on your camera is going to depend on some things. So people talk about “the crop factor”, and that article explains it, but to sum up--

A “full-frame” digital camera, or a 35mm film camera, both have imaging areas that are the same size. A “crop-sensor” camera, which for a long time was the default in digital but a few years back they realized they could make big bucks making normies pay extra for full-frame sensors (formerly the provenance exclusively of studio professionals), has a slightly smaller sensor. So your lens, if it is designed for a full-frame camera, will have a slightly different effective focal distance on a crop-sensor camera, and vice versa.

(Every manufacturer has a different way of denoting this, but an easy shorthand, if you’re in the biz, is to recognize that certain numbers only make sense for one or the other. Your 28mm lens is amost certainly full-frame. Your 18? That’s for a crop-sensor.)

(A further confusing factor: mirrorless or compact cameras with interchangeable lens systems, such as the Sony NEX, Nikon Z, uhhh, there are others, but I don’t care about them. Fortunately, usually they have much different mounts, so the lenses aren’t compatible, so it doesn’t cross over or matter, excepting adaptors, which are a whole thing I’m so disinterested in I can’t summon the energy to explain.)

Lenses that are in compatible mounts (Canon EOS, Nikon AF-S) will work on both kinds of cameras. I own a number of full-frame lenses, some of which date from the film era, which I use on my crop-sensor camera body.

A general rule of thumb is that crop-sensor lenses are shite on full-frame cameras. (You can’t use the whole sensor. so why have the whole sensor? don’t bother with this lens.) The converse rule of thumb is that often your full-frame lenses are a waste of money on your crop-sensor cameras, since you’re only using the middle of the lens.

Part of it is that you pay extra for wide-angle in a crop-sensor. So don’t. Your all-in-ones-- (28-75, 24-70, 28-135) are not going to be useful at their wider range, because they won’t look wide-angle with your wee sensor.

But your lovely prime lenses (those are the ones with one number-- a 28mm f/1.8, a 50mm f/1.8 [for many years the default, before they invented zoom lenses; they were called “nifty fifties”], a 105mm f/2.8-- those will still be lovely on your crop-sensor camera.

So don’t buy a 28-135 for your crop-sensor DSLR, because you’re paying for a wide angle you can’t use. Buy an 18-200. (I recommend image stabilization, or VR or IS or VC or whatever the manufacturer calls it.)

If you want example images, ha ha ha, well. Do I have recent ones? No. But my entire Flickr is example images, and a great thing about Flickr is that they include the EXIF data, so it tells you what camera took the photo with what lens and what flash, if applicable, and what the settings were.

Nikkor 10.5mm f/2.8 fisheye-- this is a crop-sensor lens, and it would vignette badly on a full-frame. (Oh this is probably my favorite photo I’ve ever taken with this lens, though.)

Tamron 18-270mm all-in-one-- a crop-sensor lens, which is notably not fantastic at its extreme telephoto end but is pretty fantastic up to about 200mm, and i bring it everywhere. That first photo is at 18, this one’s at about 220, and here, alas, is at 270, where it has kind of fallen down, but it was a big ask. (Honestly though that’s better than no photo!)

My usual low-light or indoor lens is a 17-50mm f/2.8 VC, which I think is a Sigma brand-- the VC is image stabilization, which is super helpful if you’re going to shoot at slow shutter speeds. I have used it to good effect for nighttime shots.

And I have a whole stable of fast glass-- prime lenses with huge apertures-- that were super essential back when I was shooting indoor sports with a slower camera body. But in 2013 or so they hit that point where camera sensors are fast now, and that glass isn’t necessary anymore, not in the same way. I hang onto it because they take beautiful pictures, but they need so much premeditation-- I joke that I always have the wrong lens on my camera, and more often than not that wrong lens is my beloved 85mm f/1.8, because I love that lens because it has gotten me some really beautiful shots in my day and everything looks beautiful through it, but if your subject comes closer well you’re shit out of luck. (It’s the shallow depth of field, it’s how you can pick a thing and isolate your subject, that’s what makes fast glass worth it. nowadays your phone does that with a filter but it fucks it up half the time.)

Anyway if anyone has questions about what the numbers on lenses mean it’s a while since I was on the sales floor but I very much do still work in a camera store, LOL.

[dagadagagagaga]

[nikon-rumors]

The #Nikon #Nikkor Z 50mm f/1.8 S mirrorless lens is now shipping, more info on the blog. https://www.instagram.com/p/BrEunD2A9bG/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=1gt89l7utueig