#Walstad method

[maerynaire]

Aquarium Tips!

If you want to set up a tank using the Walstad method be ABSOLUTELY SURE to put in a nice, thick layer of substrate. This is where the bacteria that typically live in the filter will grow. The whole key to Walstad working is this substrate layer. A good rule of thumb I've had success with in the past was to fill it up to about 1/4th the capacity of the container if it's on the smaller side (less than 10 gallons) and 1/5th capacity for bigger tanks.

Take this into account when stocking, as well! The plants and substrate will take up more room than normal and there won't be as much swimming space compared to a more traditional sort of setup.

[spriteofmushrooms]

Mr. Mystery likes green bean. 🥺💖

[thenarrativefoil]

got the wood in!! wonder how long it'll take to sink lol. I'm hoping to attach plants all along it- the body of the branch is shaped like a nike swoosh and all those little skinny branches will poke up out of the water, so I can grow not-fully-immersed plants as well!!

[dirtwaterplantsfish]

The great guppy walsta experiment.

[aquariuminfobureau]

I mostly write about organisms and not the principles of fishkeeping. However people often ask me about two related phenomena, cycling and stocking. Aquariums are safe for fish and other animals because of the nitrogen cycle. This is what determines, moreso than the water volume, the carrying capacity of the tank. But many people seem to be confused - what is the nitrogen cycle?

'Cycling' refers to the cycle by which the toxin ammonia, which is excreted as waste by organisms, before it is turned to nitrite and then to nitrate by biological actors. In aquarist parlance 'cycling' refers to the process and duration of time, during which the nitrogen cycle becomes established and stable. Properly the cycle continues throughout the operation of the aquarium.

Ammonia, which contains nitrogen, is the principal excretory product of living animals, and they void it because it is a toxic byproduct of their own metabolic processes. Human urination is an example of a way in which animals lose excess ammonia, but other kinds of animal may excrete ammonia by means of different methods.

Fortunately other organisms can find a positive use for ammonia, which animals don't want. Their own metabolisms create nitrite from the ammonia they intake, by breaking it down and adding oxygen to the nitrogen. Then yet more microscopic organisms convert the nitrite to the similarly named and chemically related nitrate, which must also be maintained at low levels, but is far less harmful. Traces of nitrate are in fact beneficial to some aquarium organisms.

The nitrogen cycle originates from the decomposition of amino acid, and this is why test kits are available to test for dissolved organics, which are not themselves inherently harmful, but their buildup indicates strain upon the system. How much strain is acceptable depends on the kinds of animals that are living in the aquarium. There isn't really a single standard as to when there are too many dissolved organics, or even nitrate. But regular and sensibly proportionate water changes, help to keep both under control.

Because it involves the processes of different organisms, the nitrogen cycle is very obviously an ecological, as well as a chemical phenomenon. Both the natural processes of the cycle, and the technology by which the effects of the benign organisms are maximised, are known as biological filtration, or biofiltration. It is different from physical and chemical filtration, although the functions of filter media may overlap.

The good bacteria that are involved, colonise available surfaces throughout the aquarium. They are present on rocks and on substrates such as sand and gravel. Similarly they colonise sponges and various proprietary items such as 'bio balls'. At this point, I wish to explain the introductory principles of biofiltration, not to cover its different expressions. It is however worth pointing out, the more the better.

Stocking levels are problematic principally because the living animals themselves create strains upon the biofiltration. Furthermore they require inputs of food, excesses of which contribute to dissolved organics, and therefore the nitrogen cycle, when they are uneaten - thus, messy feeders create more bioload than other organisms, lowering the carrying capacity of the aquarium system.

Feeding behaviors thus determine the 'footprint' animals have on the biofiltration in their aquarium, moreso than their size. It is also the mass of an animal that contributes to its output of wastes, moreso than any single dimension, such as its total length. Another determinant is the metabolic rate of the animal in question, which determines the speed at which its wastes are generated and churned out into the water.

The nitrogen cycle is also why overfeeding is bad, because excess food must inevitably decompose. By definition, the aquarist can't be overfeeding, from the perspective of the nitrogen cycle, when the supplied food is being eaten; overfeeding as in overeating is a different problem. However if feeding your livestock and keeping them healthy begins to stress the cycle, then you have too much bioload in your aquarium.

Often in marine aquariums, 'live rock' and 'live sand' are mentioned. These terms mystify many people, although they are relevant to filtration. The rocks and sand in question are substrates already colonised by microscopic organisms, as play a role in the nitrogen cycle. All items already this colonised are thus 'live' biofiltration media.

Unfortunately there is a misconception that 'live' rock needs transporting from the sea. Such rock is shipped damp but emersed, killing benign and desirable organisms, and necessitating a period called 'curing' in which photosynthesizers are denied an energy source, and further mortality and decomposition ensues. The result is that only 'tough as boots' organisms survive, and some of these species are harmful to corals and such.

Clearly despite the appeal of 'live rock' as a ready made, natural reef, it's use is problematic and self defeating. A distinction just be made, between the use of 'living' filtration media, and the importation of artificially depauperate microenvironments for aquariums. It is better to take rock and sand from an established reef tank instead, to avoid unwanted guests. Although even impoverished live rock can introduce interesting and useful 'friends', these can arrive also from established, nuisance-free tanks

A counterpart to the use of live rock and sand in reef aquariums, is the Walstad style of freshwater aquarium. The Walstad type of tank is one in which living plants and soil substrates are employed instead of artificial filtration; more common than a strict Walstad setup, is a hybrid system that employs both naturalistic and 'normal' approaches in its running.

Sometimes it is said that planted tanks do not cycle, or that adding plants stops the cycle. Nothing could be further from the truth. True aquatic plants and the organisms called algae, play a role in the cycle, which is why algae bloom during the cycling period of a new aquarium, when the lighting is switched on. Adding plants to freshwater tanks, and macroalgae to marine aquariums, should be thought of as assisting the stabilisation of the nitrogen cycle.

[eonars]

my girl 🩵 im so proud of how ive hidden the heater as well

[yoshistory]

the tank i have for the shrimp comes with a built-in filter, bubbler, and light that doesn't seem like it can be separated from one another to function since they all plug into the same chunk bit... this tank also has a history of killing fish WAY larger than my shrimp with this filter just as it is... so... im wondering if i can fashion a false bottom for the filter but the tradeoff is maintaining it is going to be way harder this way if not impossible... ugh....

[zoology]

♛𓆣 lauren 19 it/its+ flatworm enjoyer & future zookeeper. a walstad method truther, obsessive-compulsive manic-depressive, and more.

cohost ✦ flight rising (+ blog) ✦ pillowfort ✦ spacehey ✦ spotify ✦ tlk blog ✦ website

no new followers under 18 no terfs no proshippers no ED or self-harm blogs no "pro-para" blogs no anticommunists et cetera. thanks

★ ──── remade from okcomputeroknotok19972017 <3

[glassboxdiaries]

Thriving Walstad Shrimp Jar - Day 200 Update! My Planted Yellow Cherry Shrimp Ecosphere!

My 200-day-old Walstad Method shrimp jar is really coming to life as it matures!

The ecosystem is thriving, with active shrimp, healthy plants, enriched substrate, and plenty of biofilm growth.

The whole setup is coming together beautifully.

The setup uses a 6.5-liter (1.7 US gallon) jar, a clip-on Hygger nano light, a topsoil substrate capped with gravel, and plants that naturally filter the water to keep the shrimp safe.

I keep yellow neocaridina shrimp in the jar because they’re hardy, easy to care for, and require minimal maintenance, making them ideal for a shrimp jar. I started with five shrimp when I set it up, and they’ve been breeding—now there are over thirty in the jar!

I plan to keep all the shrimp in the jar, taking a natural “survival of the fittest” approach, where the older shrimp outcompete the younger ones for food, naturally controlling the population over time.

The topsoil supplies micronutrients to the plants and hosts beneficial bacteria colonies. Nitrosomonas and Nitrosococcus convert ammonia into nitrite, while Nitrobacter and Nitrospira transform nitrite into nitrate, which the plants then use as a nutrient source. Bacillus feeds on the gunk build up to increase CO2 levels in the jar to help the plants grow.

Rotala rotundifolia serves as the primary filter for the jar, absorbing toxic ammonia and nitrite, with support from the beneficial bacteria. It also takes up various minerals from the water column, helping to manage TDS buildup that could otherwise lead to issues over time.

I add a small amount of food to the jar daily, with Hikari Mini Algae Wafers being the main food source for now since they’re nearing their expiry date. I also occasionally feed Fluval Bug Bites, Shrimp Snowflake Food, and bloodworms.

Ammonia and nitrite levels remain stable at 0ppm, with nitrate holding steady at 5ppm, all within safe ranges for neocaridina shrimp. The pH, gH, and kH are gradually increasing, which, according to Dianna Walstad’s book, is a normal byproduct of photosynthesis.

The jar uses a Hygger clip-on light, providing six hours of light each day—just enough for the plants to thrive without promoting excessive algae growth. This lighting also encourages biofilm growth, allowing the shrimp to graze on it in addition to their regular food.

This jar is very low maintenance; aside from daily feeding, I only add small amounts of water monthly to counter evaporation. I haven’t even trimmed the excess plant growth lately, allowing everything to develop naturally. Check out my YouTube video on the jar's progress for more information.

[absolutelynotanidiot]

I ordered a book about planted aquariums and stuff by the microbiologist Diana Walstad ("Ecology of the Planted Aquarium") and i am so incredibly excited because i want to make a small filter free aquarium in the future using her methods.

Foo the Flowerhorn on Youtube also made a bunch of those which is where i got that idea. (A Playlist full of them can be found here)

The only issue being that i am moving in december and it probably won't be worth it to set up a tank now only to take it down again for my move, so it'll have to wait until i get to my new apartment :(

(I just know I want shrimp and loads of vegetation, not even necessarily fish)

[horsesarecreatures]

Hi I think your endangered fish tanks are so cool. That it's a connection to your dad sounds powerful too. Do you have any advice or resources for someone looking to get into native biotope tanks?

Thank you so much! Choose a species and research the heck out of it. My tank isn't actually a native biotope tank because the plants come from all over the place and I have some Asian shrimp and Cory catfish from South America while the Ameca splendens are a Mexican species, but it has a very natural look because I follow the low-tech Walstad method. She wrote a great book called Ecology of the Planted Aquarium.

If you're interested in breeding the same species as me or something similar, the website Select Aquatics sells them at a reasonable price and the owner is a good resource on their care and tank parameters. Serpa Designs is also a YouTuber who is an amazing aquascaper, and he has made tutorials on biotope tanks for Betta fish and Ameca splendens.

[hyperfixation-floodgate]

The tiny jararrium has been upgraded! The residents are now in a setup that actually has soil in the bottom more like the Walstad method, and I can't wait for the guppy grass and hornwort to fill out.

A circle of salvinia minima around a feeding ring let it have both floating plants and light from above through the clear lid. The move covered everything in brown algae debris, but the inhabitants cleaned it up pretty quick! And there are BABIES

I've counted at least 7 different species in there just that I can see without a microscope, which is amazing to me. They all came from a sample of nearby gunky lake water.

[video id: Inside a planted jar aquarium, a tiny shrimp creature crawls on a plant and then swims off in a jittery, flailing way.]

[walkingmoth]

Hi! I keep tarantulas, freshwater aquariums, and some miscellaneous inverts in bioactive, naturalistic set ups. This blog is meant to showcase my spiders but may also look into my other critters. Tarantulas:

Twinkleberry: Chromatopelma cyanopubescens, Green Bottle Blue, juvenile

Trundle: Hapalopus formosus 'large', Pumpkin patch, juvenile

Duck: Cyriocosmus elegans, Trinidad dwarf, juvenile

Goose: Cyriocosmus sp. tambopata, sling

Knees: Citharacanthus cyaneus, Cuban orange-violet, sling

Toes: Citharacanthus cyaneus, Cuban orange-violet, sling

Pudge (deceased): Hapalopus formosus 'large', male; purchased as a mature male, Pudge lived for six months and started it all for me.

Inverts:

Two American millipedes, Armadillidium vulgare (native) and Armadillidium maculatum 'zebra' isopods, and whatever beetles, grubs, and caterpillars may cross paths.

Aquariums:

1gal: planted low tech, no heater, no filter, Walstad method, stocked with a few cherry shrimp and microfauna

5gal: homemade planted low tech, heated and with sponge filter, Father Fish method, stocked with ember tetras and cherry shrimp

30gal: blackwater low tech, stocked with a juvenile Eastern musk turtle (Oakleaf), cherry shrimp, clams, and various tropical fish that came with the original set up

[thenarrativefoil]

╰(⸝⸝⸝´꒳`⸝⸝⸝)╯ she is so beautiful!! now it's just water changes and testing until it gets perfectly balanced. I can take my time picking up plants and finding a sunrise/sunset light.

[herefishiefishie]

New blog new intro - fish yeah

Wanna meet my water dogs? Yeah you do.

Ten Gallon

• Khonshu - Galaxy Koi Plakat Betta

• 2 Adult Ramshorn Snails + their criminal amount of children

Bought this pretty boy over this summer. He's in his main character era and currently can't decide what colour he wants to be.

Konch has a liking for brine shrimp and bloodworms, and detritus worms.. and ghost shrimp. Oh and baby ramshorn snails. Quite the palate on that one. Sometimes he'll accept a rogue betta buffet pellet.

Currently in the works of getting some pipe cleaners and maybe training him some.

29 Gallon

• 10 Glowlight Tetras

• 9 Bandit Corydoras

• 2 Honey Gourami (Marner & Nylander)

• 2 Mystery Snails

• 2 Black Racer Nerite Snails

This is my fun little community tank. My little side gig if you will. Based finished, except for a final addition of a third honey gourami (hopefully soon) and possibly a third mystery snail. If the mysteries ever start to breed I could bring in some babies to the LFS and sell them. If not then that's fine and I'll take what I can get. Yes I did name my gouramis after hockey players and yes I can tell them apart by one single black scale.

Future Projects

I'd love to set up a 3rd tank, walstad method. My stocking would either be a colony of shrimp or a single betta. I'd attempt this in a 5.5 gallon. If this happens or not, who knows, but the idea is definitely there.

For future future projects, I'd love to set up a 75 gallon community tank when I get my own place. Stocking I'm unsure about, but a large school of something like swordtails or platies is something that has always captivated me.

[m3nyas]

why is the walstad method aquarium reddit private. let me in on your secrets.