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umichenginabroad · 8 months ago

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Week 6: Peaked (literally)

Welcome back to my blog! I'm a bit behind so I'll be posting weeks 7-9 within the next few days as well :) Thanks for your patience, life abroad gets busy real quick!

CSE UAO visitors

This week we had visitors from the University of Michigan CSE UAO, IPE, and CGIS offices! All the students in the program were able to chat with them about how things are going in Prague, in terms of academics, accommodations, social life, and anything else relevant to our well-being here. I’d like to give a special shoutout to Julie and Shelby from the CSE Undergraduate Advising Office (UAO) for making the trip! I’ve been looking forward to their visit and was so thrilled to catch up with them both :) For those of you who may not know, I worked as a CSE Peer Advisor this past semester and absolutely loved my role in supporting other CSE students and helping out around the office. I highly admire all of the UAO staff for their kindness and dedication to bettering the CSE community, and Julie and Shelby are a prime representation of their hard work. Also a shoutout to all the visitors for conveying some of our concerns to the IFSA staff, particularly in regards to our Spring Break (which was more like a singular day off) and our exam accommodations in Prague. We now have an extra day off of school, making our break a 5 day weekend! Also, we have more clarity from our professors on what to expect from our midterms and exams here, due to mandatory practice exams and added transparency in format and grading. Thank you all, we’re happy you came and glad you made it back safely!

Vyšehrad

I showed my dad around Vyšehrad hill, which was the location of our first architecture tour. Situated next to the Vltava and Botič river valley, Vyšehrad is very strategically located for defending Prague, and was first incorporated into Prague’s medieval defense scheme by King Charles IV. Following the siege of the Swedish forces at the end of the Thirty Years’ War in 1648, Emperor Ferdinand III began to fortify Prague, including transforming Vyšehrad into a formidable fortress. In an earlier blog, I wrote about two churches within the fortress, a rotunda and basilica, with rich architecture and even richer history. This time, I’m going to focus on new sites & views within the walls that I found while exploring with my dad!

First we explored the Vyšehrad Cemetery, the resting place of some of the most influential people in Prague’s history. Within we found the graves of political figures, musicians, composers, artists, priests, reformers, and more. Notably, I found the grave of Milada Horakova, a Czech politician, a women’s rights activist, and an anti-Nazi and democratic resistance leader, which was special because I did a presentation on for my Essential Czech class. Her grave is pictured below (with flowers).

Next we peeked into an old bunker (bottom right photo) that used to be a food cellar for the royals of the first ruling dynasty in Bohemia, but is now a museum. After, we climbed the hill adjacent to the old residence and the views of Prague (the two photos on the left side) were immaculate. It was peak daylight and there was clear visibility for miles, offering the most amazing views of the Vltava river and the bridges that span it. We ended our visit at one of the coffee shops atop Vyšehrad and got some crepes and coffee before parting ways.

Josefov (Jewish Quarter)

One of the most significant places that my dad and I visited was Josefov, the historical Jewish Quarter of Prague. Dating back to the 10th century, Prague's Jewish community is one of the oldest in Europe. The Jews flourished for centuries here, despite facing persecutions and pogroms before emancipation, and their community contributed significantly to the city's cultural, economic, and intellectual landscape.

To buy tickets we visited the Jewish Museum and got entry to 7 sites as well as an audio guided tour to supplement our visit. Josefov is home to several beautifully preserved synagogues. Among the most notable are the Old-New Synagogue, which is Europe's oldest active synagogue, and the Spanish Synagogue, renowned for its stunning interior (pictured on the bottom left).

We also visited the Old Jewish Cemetery, which is among the oldest surviving Jewish burial grounds in the world. It was the only place Jews were allowed to bury their people for centuries, so the site is unique for its multiple visible layers of graves. It was quite surreal to see in person.

AnonymouS Bar

Lydia’s best friend Courtney was visiting this week too, so we headed to the infamous Anonymous Bar for drinks Thursday evening. This bar is a hidden gem with a V for Vendetta-inspired interior and employees wearing Guy Fawkes masks. They offer cocktails served in a unique style corresponding to the name of the drink. The drinks pictured on the bottom left are fixed on knife platters, but other drinks we ordered were served on infusion stands and another featured a whole show tossing around a drink lit on fire! They even offered me a separate non-alcoholic anonymous menu since I wasn’t drinking that night, and they were absolutely incredible. Way better than the alcoholic ones in my opinion. The staff was great the entire night and let us stay past our 2-hr reservation time with a mini bribe. I definitely recommend making a reservation if you come to Prague.

Tram interaction

This week, a Czech woman approached me on the subway with a question in Czech. She had asked if we had arrived at Můstek, and I responded with, “Ne, příští stanice Můstek.” She replied “Děkuju!” and sat back down with a smile on her face. Though simple, our brief exchange felt like my first step towards becoming a true local. She not only understood me, but replied in Czech! Acknowledging my progression with the language has been a motivating factor to engage in more local interactions.

Switzerland

This weekend my dad and I went to Switzerland, which was absolutely incredible. We flew into Zurich on Thursday night as I scrambled to finish up an assignment due at 11:59pm (I turned it in at 12:04… but my prof was nice and didn’t mark it late :) )

On Friday, we spent the morning in Lucerne, which is a beautiful, quaint little town in between Zurich and Interlaken. We got brunch and walked along the water, then drove to Interlaken where we would be spending the next two days! The drive is known to be incredibly scenic, and did not disappoint. After arriving, we checked into our hotel and immediately went for a walk to try and beat the sunset. After wandering for ~45 minutes, we found ourselves an insane viewpoint at an old amusement park and playground. We climbed a random tower to get the views and met these two American students at the top! They were studying in Florence but were here for the weekend as well. I’m sure you could tell by now that my dad and I never shy around talking to strangers :) Afterwards, we got dinner which was arguably the most amazing pasta I’ve had in my life. Bold statement, I know.

On Saturday, we planned to hike Harder Kulm, a mountain peak overlooking the city of Interlaken and its two lakes. It was a pretty steady incline, but we were cruising for the first hour and a half or so. At about the halfway mark my dad told me to continue without him. He’s in decent shape, undoubtedly great for his age, but he had taken a break from running recently so I guess the fatigue hit him hard. I continued to climb and after reaching the first peak, I set out for the tippity top of the mountain. There was a point in the second half of the hike where I truly hadn’t seen a human for about an hour, and there was a lot of snow on the ground so it was hard to see the trail markers, but I kept climbing (with caution). Right as I’m considering turning around, I hear a couple of voices ahead of me so I hurry my step. On the last switchback of the hike, I catch up to a group of 3 other American students studying abroad and, together, we peak the mountain. At the top we got to know each other a bit. They are studying in Geneva, another city in Switzerland, and were also here for the weekend. I ended up spending the next 4 hours or so with them, chatting and making our way down the mountain. It’s crazy how much we ended up having in common. One of the students goes to WashU and knew one of my camp friends and another was in Cape Town at the same time I was this summer! The world really is so small. The hike was also a race trail closer to the bottom, so we picked up the pace and started running down the mountain. This may sound cheesy but I cannot remember a time where I had felt so free. We had hiked around 12 miles by the time we reached the bottom, and had climbed over 4000 feet. I got their instagrams before parting ways, and I plan to keep in touch through social media. Maybe we’ll meet again someday!

Sunday was a bit rainy but my dad and I found a hotel spa to spend the day at. I definitely needed to chill after yesterday, and found myself immersed in salt baths overlooking the cliffs I had recently climbed. Afterwards, I laid in the sauna and washed off in the shower. It was an extremely tranquil experience and perfect before heading to the Zurich airport and eventually back to Prague.

Now again, let me share some ins (what’s working for me) and outs (what has brought me difficulty).

Ins:

Clarifying relationships: Ummm so my dad and I have now been mistaken as a cross-generational couple on numerous occasions, so he began introducing me as his daughter in pretty much every new place or situation we find ourselves in. This has helped us avoid any more humbling and extremely awkward encounters with strangers and their assumptions.

Suiss Chocolate: On a lighter note, the chocolate in Switzerland is to die for. We flew SwissAir in and out of Zurich and they give chocolates as their in-flight snack. Even that was incredible. My dad and I couldn’t help ourselves but to stop at every chocolate shop we passed to sample and make a purchase.

Wandering: Simply wandering around without any strict agenda in new places led to some of our best experiences. From stumbling upon the seemingly abandoned viewpoint on Friday to the new group of friends I met on Saturday’s hike, core memories were made. Highly recommend just living in the present.

Outs:

Staying in touch: I’ve realized how little time I’ve had to catch up with a lot of my friends both in the states and abroad while I’ve been in Prague. By no means is this purposeful or a reflection of how much I think of or care about them, but it’s definitely gotten worse as I’ve begun to travel more. Hopefully this is something I can work on in the coming weeks.

Alcohol: I realized I’ve taken a break from drinking this week, and will likely continue to in the upcoming weeks.

That’s all for now, thanks for reading!

Na shledanou,

Reese Liebman

Computer Science and Engineering

Institute for Study Abroad (IFSA) CS Tech Career Accelerator in Prague, Czechia

#UmichEnginAbroad #IPEcsPrague #ReeseLiebman #IPEWinter24 #CzechRepublic

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umichenginabroad · 9 months ago

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Week 4 in Prague (With a Viennese Interlude): Tour Guide Tales and Austrian Adventures

This week, my Prague narrative took an intriguing twist, blending the roles of a tourist and a tour guide, as I ventured to Vienna for a weekend jaunt and returned to play host to friends from back home. The experience was a delightful mix of rediscovering Prague through fresh eyes and indulging in the imperial charm of Vienna.

Vienna: A Weekend of Wiener Schnitzel and Waltzes Vienna greeted us with its stately architecture and cafes that make you feel underdressed. The city is a living museum, where every street corner boasts a story, and the coffee houses insist you understand the art of leisure. If you think Prague has crazy villas and museums, Vienna is that but 20x. We wandered through the MuseumsQuartier, marveled at the Schönbrunn Palace, and I developed a newfound respect for the term "Kaffeehauskultur" (coffee house culture) as we embraced the local tradition of spending hours in a café, a slice of Sachertorte in one hand and an Einspänner coffee in the other. At night, we went to Travel Shack, a hub for all tourists and foreigners with some crazy drink options- a must in my opinion. After that, we went to Prater Dome, probably the most fun club I’ve been to in all of Europe so far. Drinks were by far the cheapest we’ve seen them and let’s just say, we got there when the subway closed for the night, and left when the people were taking the morning train back to work.

Tip for Vienna: Dive into the café culture with gusto. Each coffee house is a universe unto itself, offering a unique glimpse into Vienna's soul. ALSO, must try restaurants: Ulrich and Erich (amazing brunch/lunch food- best french toast I have ever had), Neni Am Naschmarkt (Middle Eastern), and Mochi (Japanese).

The Prague Homecoming: A Personal Odyssey Returning to Prague with friends in tow transformed the city into a stage for a personal odyssey. As their guide, I was tasked with unveiling the layers of Prague, from the sprawling vistas atop Petřín Hill to the solemn beauty of the Vyšehrad Cemetery. We navigated the cobblestone alleys, each turn revealing another facet of Prague's eclectic character, from the gothic allure of the St. Vitus Cathedral to the vibrant energy of Wenceslas Square at night.

In playing host, I discovered the nuances of Prague's personality, sharing stories behind the Astronomical Clock's mechanical marvels and the legends that cloak the Charles Bridge. Our evenings were spent in lively Vinohrady, where the local pubs buzz with the energy of the city's youth, offering a taste of the contemporary Czech lifestyle amidst the historic backdrop.

Prague Hosting Tip: Use the city's tram system to give your friends a scenic tour of the less-explored neighborhoods. It's an authentic way to experience Prague beyond the tourist trails. ALSO, take your friends to the Dubliner. It probably has the best vibe out of any bar I have been to in Prague with the live music and the whole bar singing along. They’ll absolutely love it.

Cultural Exchange: Sharing Traditions and Creating Memories Playing host wasn't just about showing off Prague's sights; it was a cultural exchange. I introduced my friends to the joys of Czech cuisine, from the heartiness of goulash to the sublime simplicity of a perfectly baked trdelník. In return, we shared stories of home, reminiscing and creating new memories in this city that was becoming more familiar by the day.

Culinary Tip: In both Vienna and Prague, seek out the local markets. They're treasure troves of authentic flavors and a window into the daily lives of the city's residents.

The Joy of Reconnection: Bridging Home and Abroad Having friends visit served as a poignant reminder of the connections that endure, regardless of distance. It was a blend of my worlds—bringing pieces of home into my new life in Prague. The experience was a reminder that while I'm here to immerse myself in a new culture, my roots remain a vital part of who I am. The presence of friends from home in Prague was a bridge between my life back home and present, which felt great as I got both comfort and excitement equally.

Reflections: The Heart of My Study Abroad Experience This week of being both a visitor and a host has underscored the essence of my study abroad experience. It's about more than just academic growth; it's a journey of personal discovery, shared connections, and the joy of uncovering the soul of a place.

As I bid my friends farewell and reflect on the week, I'm struck by the richness of these experiences—how they weave together to form the tapestry of my study abroad journey. Here's to more adventures, more discoveries, and more connections that bridge the gaps between the familiar and the unknown.

Here's to the adventures that await, the stories yet to be told, and the enduring beauty of discovering the world and oneself along the way.

See ya next week,

Rachit Khandelwal

#UmichEnginAbroad #IPEcsPrague #RachitKhandelwal #IPEWinter24 #CzechRepublic

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