#Undergarment

[tanuki-kimono]

Hello!! I am a fellow kimono enthusiast and while I know a considerable amount about kimono, I had a question. I did a lot of searching, but I couldn't find an answer so I was hoping kimonoblr could help me out.

I have 2 lovely awase kimonos but it's unbearably hot where I am, so I was wondering if the nagajuban could be omitted entirely if a date-eri/kasane-eri is sewed on? Thanks in advance!

:D One-of-us-one-of-us :D (hi!)

Nothing forbids you to ditch juban!

In fact there is a term for that: 素袷 suawase (=wearing a lined kimono without an undergarment​).

To mimic the juban without actually wearing one, you would not use a dateeri but a another kimono item especially made to "fake" juban collar called an usotsuki-eri:

Tbh, I often use this trick, especially for indoors events where I know it will be (too) warm! I keep the hadajuban (or something similar like a slip), add a fake collar, and I am good to go.

Will that get a pass for formal events? no. Is it comfortable and allowing you to wear kimono in Western-heated-rooms? yes!

Now the thing is, if it's really really hot where you live, I would not advise wearing awase too often without proper foundation under it. Undergarments like juban are also there to protect kimono from sweat, so not wearing a juban could in the end damaged your kimono - especially if they are silk!

Koromogae (the change of clothes -lined/unlined- to better match the seasons) historically took place around April 1st in Japan. But it was not set in stone, and widely depended on where people lived!

If you can, dress accordingly for your climate :) I'd favor unlined hitoe (maybe you could alter your awase?), or even nice yukata dress-up as kimono.

This way you could still wear your kimono but with proper undergarments to protect them ;)

Hope it helps!

[artschoolglasses]

Pair of Stays, Scottish, 1770-80

From the National Gallery of Victoria

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'Woo Young-woo', 'yard house' and 'Strangers' are big hit?

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[monriatitans]

ARTIST SHOUT-OUT #564

Sunday, April 7, 2024

"Victorian Bustle Era Undergarments" by Gwendolyn Grey

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The Artist Shout-Outs are given to human artists to combat AI art theft. #createdontscrape For more details, and to view previous ones, click here! Like what you see and want to know when there’s more? Click here to subscribe for updates and/or hit the Follow button! See the piece on ArtStation here! See where else the Artist Shout-Out has spread here! The shout-out choice was inspired by the Oxford English Dictionary’s Word of the Day: shiftening, which is, “A long, loose-fitting undergarment; (also) a set or change of clothes.” For more about the word, click here!

[artschoolglasses]

Pair of Stays, Scotland, 1770-80

From the National Gallery of Victoria

[growyourbusinesses]

Say Goodbye to Discomfort during your Period with our High-quality, Soft and Comfortable High Waist Maternity Panties. It's Designed with your Convenience in Mind the crotch opens, allowing you to replace the pad without removing the whole undergarment.

For more details, visit- https://www.bmama.com.my/products/velcro-bottom-open-high-waist-brief-set

[k-star-holic]

Idol Fan Signing Event Undergarment Inspection Controversy "Shame, Human Rights Floor"

[wisteria-lodge]

"Smallclothes"

I just reblogged a very interesting thread about historical inaccuracy in A Song of Ice and Fire, but it was doing a whole big picture thing and I didn't want to clog it up with one very small detail that just really specifically bothers me.

It's his use of the term "smallclothes." Basically, in ASOIAF smallclothes = panties/knickers.

Daario found his breeches and pulled them on. He did not trouble himself with smallclothes.

Jon’s anger flared. “No, my lord, I mean to set them to sewing lacy smallclothes."

“... before Lord Snow wets his smallclothes.”

"he looked like he was going to shit his smallclothes"

So okay. 'smallclothes' or 'small-clothes' is a historical term (from the 1700s) that means... underlayer. Here's it being used by Charles Dickens:

“Will you run over, once again, what the boy said?” asks Mr. Tulkinghorn, putting his hands into the pockets of his rusty smallclothes and leaning quietly back in his chair."

The idea being that he's casual/doesn't care and isn't bothering to dress up for his guest. not that he's in his undies. Here is a illustration from Nicholas Nickleby of a suitor who has inappropriately "displayed his small-clothes"

I've heard "smallclothes" refer to things like pocket-handkerchiefs, and anecdotally it's sometimes used to refer to knickers in linguistically stubborn places like Yorkshire, but that just is not how the word was used historically.

so okay. fine. It's a fantasy story, he's just made up his own word that means "panties."

Except NO. They straight up did not wear panties in the middle ages and renaissance. Sometimes you got loose under-breeches with a split crotch BUT - in general that long white shirt/chemise just WAS your undergarment. Think of how much easier it is to manufacture! And clean! Boxer brief type things weren't a thing until the 1900s, and modern-ish woman's panties ("step-ins") weren't a thing until the 20s, because the hemlines stopped working with pantalettes and bloomers. There are no "lacy smallclothes" like there is lacy lingerie. That only makes sense if you have industrialized clothing manufacturing!

Honestly I would have thought GRRM would be all over this, like it's kinda sexy that it's just thigh-high stocking or leggings underneath those big dresses, right? But he hasn't done that. Instead he's just ported in a modern article of clothing and gave it an old-timey name. Just a little hint that he hasn't actually properly got his head around how these clothes were made and used, and that devalues them.

And it's escaped containment! It's canon in Dragon Age, and in fanfiction I'm seeing "smallclothes" or "smalls" used to describe the underwear in in Our Flag Means Death, the Lord of the Rings, the Witcher. Just have nothing! None of these people should be wearing panties!!!!

[cursoulla]

Them your honour

[mercuryspit]

dead girl detective; Edwin Payne 🔮📘

[frostedmagnolias]

Camisole

c. 1900-1920

“This light green camisole is made of silk and net trim around the neckline. It has thin shoulder straps made of silk ribbon and there is a bow of the same material on the center front of the neckline. This camisole is also fitted at the waist.”

Grand Rapids Public Museum

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We ask your questions so you don’t have to! Submit your questions to have them posted anonymously as polls.

[k-star-holic]

Oh Eun Young "Undergarment First-time elementary school children to wear, most importantly..."

Source: k-star-holic.blogspot.com

[peekofhistory]

hello! I saw your post about the layers of hanfu, the one with the pants that tie around the waist. I really want to try to make them, but I can't seem to find a pattern. Is there a term for that article of clothing that I can use to search? Or better yet, do you have any pattern recommendations?

I was recently introduced to hanfu through a c-drama, and I'm really curious about it, so I'm glad I found your blog!

AHHH!! My first inbox message!! I'm so happy 😃😃

The name for that style of pants is (unfortunately) just "pants" (裤/ku in Chinese, which literally translates to pants).

I searched around for patterns and pieced one together (luckily it doesn't seem too complicated :D). You'll have to play around with the measurements so they fit you best, these were based on a video of someone who made this for a client (I'll link the video as a source but it's all in Chinese).

Here's some screenshots of videos demo-ing it (also linked in sources). The most important take-away I got is to make sure the width of the pant legs is enough to wrap ALL the way around your body and overlap in the back so your butt doesn't show xD

The earliest artefacts for this style of pants is the Han Dynasty (202 BC-9 AD, 25–220 AD), but it was also discovered in tombs of the Song Dynasty (960-1279 AD), which had more samples and were better preserved (I heard in one Song tomb they found 24 pairs of pants, 15 of which were this style O.O). So all of these were made using the Song Dynasty version, but they look basically the same and were also worn as under garments.

Sources: Sewing patterns https://www.sohu.com/a/406159256_620719

Sewing full process (with measurements) 慕少蓉 https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1sg4y1v7jZ/

Demonstration: Xiaohongshu 曾嚼子 Video

Xiaohongshu 宾义儿 Video

If you're interested in hand-making Hanfu (BIG kudos to you, btw, that is AMAZING!) I recommend this book （it's all in Chinese but it does provide patterns for many Hanfu styles): 中国古代服饰结构图集 (Patterns of historical Chinese clothing)

You can also use Xiaohongshu (Little red book), it's both a website and an app that a LOOOT of Chinese people use for everything: https://www.xiaohongshu.com/

If you searching "[dynasty or clothing name] 结构图" (结构图 means patterns) you'll usually get a lot of results.

[kriskukko]

lounging

[alizera62quartz]

the Rose petals of Passion and Romance~

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